And, of course, the larger the dog, the larger the pile of fur they shed every year.

So, if you want to adopt a large breed, but you don't want to deal with enough shed fur to stuff a couch every year, what are your options? There are a bunch of different breeds that are either low-shed or nearly no-shed, so why not pick one of them?

#1: Portuguese Water Dogs

First on our list is a distant cousin of the poodle, the Portuguese Water Dog, or PWD for short. This breed is known to be somewhat hypoallergenic, specifically because they don't shed very much. Their coats are curlier, and they only have the one coat rather than the inner and outer coats of the more shed-heavy dogs.

Because of their relatively dense and curly coat, you need to make sure you're brushing your PWD appropriately. They do lose hair – every creature with hair or fur does – but a lot of it just stays trapped in their coat. So, brushing is essential to make sure you're getting that fur out. Otherwise, it will lead to mats and tangles, which can be unpleasant for your pooch, and can lead to issues like skin irritation, infection, and the like.

The most important thing for brushing out the coat of a PWD is to make sure you have the right kind of brush. You want one with longer, stiffer bristles, usually called a slicker brush, to make sure you get deep down in the fur coat and pull out those tangled hairs without irritating your pup's skin while doing it.

PWDs also grow their coats longer and longer, so grooming tends to be more intensive, since you'll need to give them a haircut every couple of months.

#2: Goldendoodles

Goldendoodles are a trendy designer breed you see a lot these days. As a designer breed, they're often bred for sale, which isn't something I usually advocate. That said, you can often find goldendoodles in shelters after a breeder oversaturates their market, or people need to give up on the ones they bought. If you can find a goldendoodle to rescue, go for it!

Goldendoodles are a crossbreed between golden retrievers and poodles, and a lot of them inherit their coats from their poodle parent. That means they tend to have shorter and wavier hair than their golden parents, and don't shed as much because of it.

It's important to know that, as a hybrid designer breed, there's not a ton of consistency between pups. Some can take after their golden parents more, and end up with more shed-prone coats. As long as you're proactive about grooming and you're willing to give them the love they deserve, they can be a great low-shed option.

#3: Afghan Hounds

If you've seen an Afghan Hound in person, you're probably wondering how a dog that looks like it's made out of hair makes a list of low-shed breeds. The truth is, while they have long, silky hair, that hair doesn't shed all that much. It has a lot more in common with the hair on your own head than it does the fur of a husky.

As a breed, the Afghan Hound has a dignified yet silly demeanor and is generally hypoallergenic due to how little they shed on average. They do require frequent brushing, as much to keep their hair tangle-free as to remove loose hair, but it's a small price to pay for that glorious fringe.

#4: Whippets

In a way, if you took an Afghan Hound and you shaved it, you'd have something that's a lot like a Whippet. Whippets are wiry dogs built as much for speed as for anything. They're essentially miniature greyhounds and can be very affectionate, friendly, and gentle creatures. They can also get the urge to run, at which point nothing is going to stop them.

While a lot of the dogs on this list still have mid-length or longer fur, Whippets are one of the breeds with short, almost-invisible fur coats. You don't need a deep brush to take care of them; instead, a curry brush will do the job. Because of that, they don't need the kind of constant brushing and care that many other breeds require.

#5: Airedale Terriers

Airedales are the largest of the terrier breeds and look like their smaller cousins, just scaled up. The fur they sport is thick and wiry, but they don't shed very much, making them perfect as an option for people who want the aesthetics and personality of a smaller dog, but the size of a larger breed.

The Airedale generally has a bit more of an intensive grooming routine than some other breeds, however. Since their hair doesn't shed as much, they still need some trimming or clipping, especially around their eyes, their paws, and their sensitive regions. Otherwise, you can be in for a bit of a mess, you know. You'll want to give them a weekly brushing as well.

#6: Irish Wolfhounds

The humble Irish Wolfhound is actually one of the tallest dog breeds in the world. While the tallest dog ever was a Great Dane, the Wolfhound is a generally tall breed that stands firm and stately.

Unlike the other dogs on this list, or most of them anyway, the Irish Wolfhound isn't considered a hypoallergenic breed. They do shed a little bit all the time. They just don't have the seasonal coat changes that other breeds do, so they don't blow out a whole coat in a matter of a few days like those huskies I showed in that video up top.

All of this is to say that if you're looking for a low-shed breed for allergy reasons, maybe avoid the Irish Wolfhound. If you're looking for one for labor and grooming reasons, the Wolfhound is a better choice. You're still going to need to brush them weekly, but otherwise their grooming regimen is pretty standard, without any of the excess trimming you might have to do for more poodle-adjacent breeds.

#7: Komondorok

The humble Komondor is a very unique kind of breed. They're a kind of "mop dog" with dreadlock-style hair, technically known as a "corded coat" in kennel club circles. They're big dogs with big personalities, and as much as they look like giant mops, they're very loyal, protective, and loving.

And yes, "Komondorok" is the plural of Komondor.

The trick with the Komondor is that their coats do need regular care to avoid matting, and you'll need to bathe them regularly and groom them consistently. Otherwise, they're going to look like mops that were used to try to clean up the forest floor: full of twigs and leaves and debris, and whatever else decided to try to make a home there.

While the Komondor doesn't shed, they do occasionally drop a whole cord, which can be a little odd to see if you aren't used to it. They're fine, though. They won't even notice.

#8: Xoloitzcuintlis

Try saying that one fast! The Xolo, also known as the Mexican Hairless Dog, is one of the few truly no-shed breeds in the world. It's kind of like the sphinx cat of dogs; they do have fur, but it's tiny and nearly invisible, so even when they do shed, it's not something you notice.

One of the ancient breeds, Xolos come in different sizes, with the Standard being the largest of the three. They're loyal, calm, and low-maintenance, with their primary needs centering around skincare more than haircare. Get used to applying doggy sunscreen!

#9: Peruvian Inca Orchids

This is another hairless ancient breed, native to Peru. They have dark skin, sometimes with patches of white, and they can grow tufts of fur around their paws, the tip of their tail, and a mohawk of sorts across their heads.

Beyond that, they don't have much fur to speak of, so they can fall into the no-shed category. The hard part is finding one to adopt!

Other Possible Breeds

You can find lists of large breeds with low shedding all over the internet, but they aren't always very good.

For example, one high-ranking list I found says that the Samoyed is a good breed for low shedding. To that, all I have to do is post this picture and ask the author what they think "low shedding" means. Don't get me wrong, I love those fluffy clouds in dog form, but they definitely have plenty of fur to go around, and don't mind sharing.

Another list had the Belgian Malinois listed, and they're pretty high shedders as well. Sometimes I wonder what kind of experiences some people have, and what people consider a lot of shedding, when I see things like that. Oh well.

There are also a lot of breeds that are good for their low shedding, but they're not large breeds of dogs. For example, Yorkies are low-shedding, but they are also tiny, adorable dogs.

What other large breeds didn't make the main list? A lot of them are variants or related breeds to the ones listed:

• Poodles. Poodles are, of course, one of the lowest-shedding dogs out there, though they do still have high grooming requirements. A lot of breeds mix in some poodle to try to cut down on the shedding.

• Greyhounds. I already listed Whippets, and everything I said about them applies just as much to greyhounds.

• Irish Water Spaniels. Another large breed that has "water" in the name, these are a lot like Portuguese Water Dogs, with many of the same pros and cons.

• Giant Schnauzers. As the giant version of the normal Schnauzer, these dogs have the iconic terrier look, so they fall into the same basic category as the Airedales.

• Basenjis. These are a somewhat unique breed, and not only are they low-shed, they're also "barkless" dogs because of how they don't actually bark, but make grumbly and whiny noises instead. They don't make the main list because they're on the smaller side, generally considered more of a medium breed than a large breed.

• Pulis. The Puli is another corded-coat breed, like a smaller version of the Komondor, so everything I said about the Komondor up above applies to the Puli.

Certainly, there are a lot of large breeds that have low shedding, usually because of some kind of non-standard coat.

So, which one do you pick? A lot of it comes down to why you're looking for a low-shed breed.

If your primary concerns with shedding center around allergies, you'll have to be careful. There are a lot of breeds with low shedding or no shedding, and they're often labeled as "hypoallergenic" dogs, but there's not actually such a thing as a truly hypoallergenic dog. With dogs, allergies are not actually triggered by fur; it's more the shed skin and saliva that trigger it. You'll need to actively bathe your dog, feed them hypoallergenic food, and hopefully treat your own allergies.

If your primary concern with shedding is instead focused on the cleaning and maintenance of your home, your outfits, your electronics, and the like, then just about any low-shed breed will work. You'll still probably get dog hair everywhere, but it's a lot easier to deal with when it's not measured in pounds.

If you're looking for a low-shed breed because you want the minimal amount of grooming and associated care, you'll have other considerations as well. A lot of low-shed breeds more than make up for the brushing with the need to keep them clipped, bathed, or otherwise handled in ways that don't stop at just brushing.

So, what do you think? What breed do you like the most from a shedding perspective? Do you have suggestions to add to the list? I'd love to talk, so leave me a comment!

Cats love to hide. As much as we think of them as sunbeam-basking mini-panthers, comfortable wherever they are and lord of their domain, many cats are timid or hesitant, and will hide at the first sign of something changing in their environment.

If your cat is hiding, whether it's from you, from an unexpected visitor, or for unknown reasons, it might be worth knowing what's happening and what you can do about it.

Reason #1 Cats Hide: They Just Like Hiding

Many cats enjoy being in spaces where they're largely covered and enclosed. It's why they like to find places on top of shelves, in drawers, in boxes, in shopping bags, and in dark crevasses. It's cozy! It's kind of like how we people will wrap up in a comfortable blanket to lounge around.

I knew one cat who got herself trapped all the time, because she would find open drawers, crawl in, up, behind, and underneath them, so when the "empty" drawer was closed, she'd be stuck in the cupboard. She'd nap there perfectly content for hours, until her parents panicked looking for her or she got hungry, at which point they'd track down her faint meows.

Cats are also capable of getting into spaces you might think are much too small for them, and being comfortable there. In some cases, though, they can get stuck, so if you have spaces like vents, crawlspaces, and other hard-to-reach spaces, you might consider blocking them off. Instead, get a cat house/condo, a few boxes, or some other spaces your cat can hide.

Reason #2 Cats Hide: Pregnancy

One of the big reasons a cat might hide is if she's pregnant, and it's about time for the kittens to come out. Cats this far along will hide for multiple reasons. The big one is because she's vulnerable, and because her kittens will be extremely vulnerable. Another is just to have shelter, a safe space, and a comfortable climate for having that litter.

Once she gives birth, she'll be weak, and she'll want to stick by her kittens for a while. Ideally, you can prepare a place for this to happen so she doesn't try to make a nest out of your clothes or in an inaccessible place somewhere. That way, you can make sure to bring her food and water while she recovers.

Reason #3 Cats Hide: Stress, Anxiety, or a Sudden Startle

Another big reason why cats hide is because they're anxious creatures, or they're stressed, or they're just startled. If you've ever accidentally dropped something loud and your cat has bolted from the room, that's one example. Cats get lost in their own little furry worlds, and something that startles them can send them into a panic to find a place to get away from whatever it was.

Unfortunately for us, sometimes that's dropping a dish, sometimes it's a loud noise from the garbage truck outside, and sometimes it's just coming home and opening the squeaking front door – at least until they're more used to it.

This kind of hiding behavior is most common in adopted stray and feral cats, in cats with poor socialization, in cats that spend some of their time outdoors, and in cats that are just being introduced to a new place.

In particular, you'll see it a lot with a new cat you're bringing into your household, especially if you have existing cats. The new cat doesn't know the lay of the land, where it is safe, and what territories the other cat has claimed. So they'll find the first place to hide that they can, and if need be, sneak to one more secure. Then they'll gradually explore, until they feel more comfortable, first in a room and later throughout a home.

One risk here is if you have gaps or crawl spaces, especially if there's a risk that they could slip outside through them. Try to make sure to secure things like basement doors and large vents against a cat slipping through them as much as possible.

The more stressed a cat is, the more they'll hide. The more anxious they are in general, the more likely they are to hide. More well-socialized, comfortable, and laid-back cats might not hide at all. It really varies from cat to cat!

Reason #4 Cats Hide: Illness or Injury

At last, we come to the reason no one wants to think about: your fur baby is sick. Cats are generally solitary creatures by nature, even if they'll form colonies and family units with littermates and their people. They tend to be independent as much as possible.

A side effect of being in the middle of the food chain – a predator that is vulnerable to larger predators – is that, if they're weak, sick, or in pain, they'll hide it as much as possible. They'll try to avoid any obvious signs that they're sick when it's minor, and if it's major enough that they can't hide the behaviors, they'll hide their presence.

This is why it can seem like cat illnesses come out of nowhere: it was there, but your cat was good at hiding it from you.

If your cat is experiencing the symptoms of illness or injury, you'll usually be able to see other signs. I discuss those more in a later section, so read on to find out when you should be concerned.

Other Reasons Cats Might Hide

There are also a few other reasons why your cat might hide.

These include:

• Warmth. If it's winter and your house isn't warm enough for them, your cat might seek out an enclosed space where their body heat can keep it warmer for them to be cozy.

• Fear. Whether it's a noise outside, the vacuum or dishwasher running, or something that scares them, cats hide when they're afraid.

• Coolness. The opposite of warmth, if your house is too warm for them, your cat might seek out a place where it's a little cooler so they can chill out.

Again, hiding is a pretty natural behavior for cats, but there's one more question to answer.

Is a Hiding Cat Cause for Concern?

One thing many of you are probably wondering is whether or not your cat hiding from you is cause for concern.

The answer is usually no. Most of the reasons cats hide are perfectly normal, and there's nothing to worry about.

That said, there are a couple of reasons why hiding might be worrisome, and you might want to schedule a trip to the vet ASAP. The biggest is illness or pain, as I've already mentioned above. Cats that feel like they're weak or vulnerable will hide, which is why, for so many people, cat illnesses seem to "come out of nowhere." Cats hide their suffering until it's no longer possible, which is usually when an illness or injury is advanced enough that they can't possibly hide it.

For the cat, it's a survival mechanism. Larger predators will target weak individuals, after all. They don't know that they're safe in your home and that you'll care for them, so they instinctively hide.

Fortunately, you'll probably be able to tell if your cat is hiding out of sickness or pain, because there will be other symptoms as well, such as:

• Messy litter box usage, including missing it, failing to bury it, or having loose or liquid stool.

• Going in places that aren't the litter box.

• Not using the litter box at all.

• Missing meal times, or barely eating when they do.

• Failing to groom themselves properly, and looking haggard when you do see them.

• Being irritable, aggressive, or averse to touch.

These are all good reasons why you should take your cat in to be examined. The trouble, then, is getting ahold of them when they're hiding, but that's a subject for another post.

Should You Try to Extricate Your Cat?

So, if your fur baby is hiding, should you try to flush them out or attract them from their hiding space?

Generally speaking, probably not. Cats hide because that's where they feel safe and comfortable. If you try to pull them out, they might fight back, they might lose their trust in you, and it can exacerbate their anxiety. It's a bad thing all around!

The only exception to this is if you think they're sick and you need to get them to the vet. In this case, you may need to try to get them out of their hiding place so you can take them in for a check-up. This is, unfortunately, very difficult, so be prepared if you need to try.

How to Corral a Hiding Cat

If you're really concerned and you need to get your cat out of hiding so you can take them to the vet, how can you do it? Unfortunately, there's no simple way. In fact, if you drag them out of a hiding place, that can further add to their stress, distrust, and fear, and can make them feel like that territory isn't safe. They might also find another, harder-to-reach hiding place for next time.

If you need to get them out, there are a few things you can try.

Wait for them to come to you. All but the sickest cats will still come out occasionally, whether it's to get food and water, to use the litter box, or just because they're feeling better temporarily. This is usually a time when you can try to catch them, though if you make sudden moves and pounce on them like a predator, they might bolt back to their hiding place.

Go fishing with a toy. Sometimes, if your cat is potentially sick or in pain, but they aren't too bad, they'll still have enough of a prey drive to chase after a toy that you wave around. You can lure them out with a toy, give them a treat, and coax them into their carrier for the trip to the vet.

Remove anything that might be causing stress and anxiety. Whether it's an appliance making a noise, children causing a ruckus, another cat chasing them into hiding, or something else, if your cat is being driven into hiding because of these, removing them can help coax your kitty back out.

Try the treats. Some cats are more food-motivated than others, and a high-value treat can pull them out of hiding when they smell it. You can then use it to guide them to their carrier and corral them for the vet run.

What NOT to Do to Extract a Hiding Cat

The worst thing you can do is try to go in after them. A cat is using their hiding space to feel safe and secure. It's also an enclosed space that is easy to defend. That means your cat is already anxious or scared, and if you try to reach in and grab them, they're already primed to swipe at you. You can get some nasty gashes from this kind of defensive behavior.

You should also try to avoid being frantic, grabbing at them, or generally acting like a predator. Even if you have nothing but love in your heart, they don't know that, and all you do is make yourself less trusted, risk injury, and wipe out a hiding place they thought was safe.

Hopefully, if your cat is hiding, it's for more benign reasons, and you don't have to worry about them being sick. Generally speaking, unless you see a cause for concern, leave them be and let them come out at their own pace. If they're hiding in a dangerous or problematic spot, coax them out, block that hiding place, and give them somewhere safer to hide.

Do you have any questions about hiding cats or what to do if your cat is hiding? If so, I'm always more than happy to help, so be sure to leave me a comment down below!

Different breeds of dogs have different inclinations, and that can color the experiences you have in adopting and raising them.

It's important to know that these breed inclinations are not always going to be true. Pit bulls have a bad rap as violent dogs, but that's as much exaggeration and (poor) training as it is anything to do with the breed's inherent characteristics. They're one of the biggest examples of a dog where the expectations and the reality can be very different.

So, if you're considering adopting a pit bull-lab mix, what should you know, and how can you prepare for the unique challenges you might face?

What is the History of Pit Bull-Lab Mix Dogs?

Pit Bull Labs, also known by names like Pitadors or Labrabulls, are a mixed breed that is more and more popular with every passing year. They're loyal, friendly, and charming, and they've quickly won over the hearts of dog parents everywhere.

About the Pit Bull

Pit bulls are a breed of Terrier, a combination breed themselves, as a cross between the Staffordshire Terrier and the American Bulldog. Centuries ago, they were bred to be large, strong dogs and trained to bait bears, bulls, and other extremely strong animals.

They lost their purpose when animal baiting was outlawed, so they were then mixed with more agile and smaller dogs for fighting one another, helping out on farms, or as guard dogs. They are prized for their strength and loyalty.

About the Labrador

Labs, or Labrador Retrievers, were a breed created as hunting companions. Hunters would shoot game like fish and fowl, and the dog would go get it. They're extremely friendly, smart, curious, and loving, and their keen sense of smell puts them ahead of even other dogs.

Labs today are still used as hunting dogs but are also commonly seen as dogs trained to detect explosives, for search and rescue, and as friendly and sweet therapy dogs. They love to be lap dogs, even if they're often a little large to do so comfortably.

About the Pitador

The Pitador, or lab-pit mix, was created in the 90s as a sort of designer dog. The goal was to mix the most desirable traits of both; making a pit friendlier or making a lab more effective as a guard dog, that sort of thing.

It's worth mentioning that, as a designer dog, the American Kennel Club doesn't recognize Pitadors as an official breed. They're also not, generally speaking, a 50/50 mix of pit bull and lab; instead, most modern pitadors are the children of previous pitadors, and the exact mixture of pit and lab can vary.

Primary Breed Characteristics of Pit Bull-Lab Mix Dogs

Despite different origins and temperaments, pit bulls and labs are actually fairly similar as far as dogs are concerned. They certainly share more in common than either breed does with dogs like chihuahuas, mastiffs, or corgis, right?

The Physical Characteristics

Pit bull lab mix dogs are generally around two feet tall and can weigh somewhere between 40 and 90 pounds when they're fully mature. They're firmly mid-sized dogs and pretty close to the mental image you might have associated with the concept of a dog in general.

The coloration, eye color, and fur patterns can vary, depending on the mix of genetics making up the specific dog you're looking at. They can also have either floppy lab-like ears or shorter, more erect ears like their pit bull ancestors, depending on the dominant traits in their individual makeup.

Health and Wellness

Pit bulls are often longer-lived dogs and bring that length of life to their mixes. But, since they're an unrecognized designer breed, pit bull lab mixes might have difficulty in tracing healthy lineages, and there are a few health issues that can crop up in pitadors that are worth knowing about.

Remember, these aren't guaranteed to happen to your dog. They're just some of the more common issues for the breed, and when you know about them ahead of time, you can watch for signs and be prepared to handle the issues if they occur.

• Epilepsy. Pit-lab mixes can be prone to seizures. As long as you can identify and remove triggers from their environment and give them medication as necessary, this is a manageable condition for most dogs.

• Hip dysplasia. One of the most common issues with this breed mix, hip dysplasia is a malformation of the hip joints that can cause them pain throughout their life, and arthritis when they reach old age. It's usually identifiable when the dog is young and can be treated through surgery to improve quality and length of life.

• Obesity. A lot of dogs are at risk of obesity, though pit bull lab mixes are energetic enough that they may be able to exercise it off. They, like other breeds such as Great Danes, are also susceptible to bloat, which is potentially life-threatening.

• Skin problems. Pit-lab mix breeds are somewhat more prone to allergic dermatitis, which can be caused by a variety of different triggers, from certain pollen to ingredients in food. It's important to watch for signs of allergies and cut out the trigger as much as possible.

Fortunately, the most serious of these issues can be caught early and treated proactively, so as long as you know what to watch for, you can help ensure your pup has a long and happy life.

Mentality and Personality

As I already mentioned, pit bulls have a bad rap, and there are some people who view pit bull lab mixes as a way to temper the "violent tendencies" of a pit bull with the outward friendliness of a lab. Of course, anyone who has spent time with a pit bull knows they can be some of the most charming and even-tempered dogs around, so this kind of cross-breeding wasn't actually necessary to combat bad stereotypes, but here we are.

Pit bull lab dogs are extremely energetic. They love being outside, they love having tasks to accomplish, and if you have a way to train them as working dogs, they'll take to it like a fish takes to water.

They're also incredibly loving and loyal to their families. They may be initially skeptical of outsiders, and they can be somewhat defensive if they aren't frequently socialized, but that's an easy problem to solve as long as you anticipate it.

While a lot of people are hesitant to introduce pit bull type dogs to other dogs for fear of aggression, pit bull labs generally aren't going to cause these kinds of issues. They're very sociable and friendly as a rule.

If anything, their high energy levels mean they can be a little too forward. They want to make friends and play, often long past the point where their companions are all tuckered out. Sometimes, other dogs can interpret this as aggression and get defensive, and the occasional altercation can occur.

The biggest risk is that, because of those energy levels, pit bull lab mix dogs need to be kept engaged and busy. I don't mean just mindlessly playing fetch, either. They want more cognitive challenges to really keep them hooked. They're one of the "problem breeds" when it comes to things like night barking because they're bored. When they're bored, they can also end up destructive just in search of stimulation, and in rare cases, can even end up aggressive because of it. A fight is better than nothing at all, in their minds.

Tips for Caring For a Pit Bull-Lab Mix Dog

If you're ready to bring a new pitador puppy into your home, what should you do and keep in mind to make sure everything goes well?

Get the Right Food

Since pit bull labs are extremely energetic and love nothing more than to be on the run, you need to make sure you're giving them the best food you can.

Food full of filler is going to leave them struggling and can cause health issues down the line. You also need to make sure you're feeding them right, like with a slow feeder, to help prevent bloat. Your vet will likely have a good recommendation for food to give them to keep them healthy.

Know How to Tire Them Out

I already mentioned that something as simple as fetch is probably not going to be cognitively engaging enough for your pit-lab mix to really put their mind into it. While you definitely need some purely physical fitness like fetch or runs, you might also consider something like a small agility course to give them more engaging physical activity.

You can also double up on this with as much training as you can do. Pit-labs are eager to learn tricks and commands, and you can build up a library of so many behaviors people will be sure the pup understands you.

Don't forget a few in-home cognitive challenges, like puzzle feeders, to keep them from being too bored at home. A bored pitador is a potentially destructive pitador, after all.

If you have a hobby or career outside, where you can train them to help you work, they'll be very happy to join you as well.

Socialize Them Early and Often

To avoid the negative reputation of aggression, the key is great socialization. Your new pitador puppy should be socialized early and often, with both a variety of people and a variety of other dogs, and potentially other animals if you have cats or others in your home.

This is critical to avoid the most potential aggression later in life. A confident, well-socialized pit-lab mix is going to have a much easier time respecting the boundaries of other dogs and people, and the only potential issues you might have is if they get really, really bored or if something threatens a member of their family.

One nice thing about pit bull labs is that they actually love water. This is not great when they find a muddy puddle or algae-covered pond, but it's very handy when it comes time to give them a bath. You won't have to try too hard to get them in the tub… and you might need to struggle to keep them out when you're bathing.

Establish Regular Vet Visits

This is common advice for any pet you bring into your home: make sure you're getting them regular, adequate medical care.

Fortunately, your pit-lab is likely to love hopping in the car and meeting new friends. Don't forget socialization with the vet!

Know the Warning Signs of Health Issues

The three most common issues you need to watch for with a pit-lab mix are epilepsy, hip dysplasia, and skin irritation.

Hip dysplasia warning signs include:

• Lameness or limping as they move around.

• Decreasing activity or range of motion.

• Signs of pain, especially when standing, running, or climbing.

• A bunny hopping gait.

Epilepsy warning signs include:

• Unsteady walking or loss of balance.

• Biting motions at nothing.

• Stiffening and collapsing or falling.

• Foam at the mouth.

• Dazed and confused looks.

• Falling unconscious suddenly.

• Shaking, jerking, or twitching.

Skin irritation warning signs include:

• Red, dry, and flakey skin.

• Scooting and scratching against surfaces.

• Hair loss and skin sores.

• Excessive licking.

• Chewing and biting at the skin.

If you see any of these warning signs, it's worth bringing up with your vet to make sure you catch the issue and treat it ASAP.

Adopt, Don't Shop

I always want to add this to any discussion of picking up a new puppy.

Across the country, our shelters are full, and many dogs are struggling. Always seek a dog to adopt rather than shopping with breeders. I'm certain you'll find a loving and loyal pit-lab somewhere to adopt if you're willing to look.

Do you have any questions about pit-lab mix dogs? Are you ready to adopt one, but you have some concerns? If so, be sure to let me know in the comments section down below!

There's nothing wrong with this, of course. All of us settle down as we age. But it's fairly common for cat parents to miss that adorable flurry of activity that comes with a kitten. And sometimes, if the opportunity arises, we think, why not? Why not get a new kitten to add to our family?

There's just one hurdle to overcome, and that's introducing a new kitten to your older cat. Unfortunately, it doesn't always go smoothly. So, what can you expect when bringing a new kitten to your household with an established older cat, and how can you make sure things go as smoothly as possible?

What to Expect When Introducing a Kitten to an Older Cat

Cats are surprisingly territorial creatures. We tend to think of dogs as the territorial house pets who leap to the door in defense against intruders like the mailman or a passing squirrel and who chuff a warning when anything outside gets too close.

Cats are just as territorial, but they're a little less outwardly defensive. They like to stake their claims, and when a cat has the run of the house, that house is their territory. They're comfortable, they feel safe, and they know how life works in their domain.

When a new creature is added to the household – whether it's a child, a kitten, a dog, or something else entirely – your older cat will feel the pressure. It's an invasion of their territory, and it's something that disrupts their equilibrium and their calmer lifestyle.

It's important to recognize that your older cat may not like this disruption. Different cats have different personalities, and some will take to a new addition quickly, while others are much more reticent.

It's also impossible to know without prior experience which your cat will be. I've seen notoriously anti-social cats nearly immediately adopt a kitten as their own, and I've seen outwardly friendly cats who want nothing to do with a kitten.

That said, you might be able to have some idea based on where your cat came from and what background they have. If your older cat tends to hide from strangers and hates a disruption in their daily routine, they'll have a harder time accepting a new kitten. If they were formerly a stray or feral or were just poorly socialized in their youth, they'll also be more likely to be defensive of what they have.

On the other hand, cats that were well socialized, that have grown up with fosters or around a rotating cast of cats and people, or that are generally social with animals and gregarious with people might be better at accepting a new kitten.

These are just guesses, though. You'll never know whether your older cat will accept a new kitten until you try.

Special note: don't give up too quickly! Introducing a kitten to an older cat can be a lengthy process that can take weeks, and if you rush it, it's more likely to go wrong. Let the cats take it at their pace, and be patient. I've seen way too many people give up and return a newly adopted kitten after just a few days, which is terrible for everyone involved.

If all goes well, your kitten and your older cat will bond and become fast friends. If not, they might have more of a sibling relationship; they quarrel and have to establish their territories, but they can still live together. It's relatively rare – though not impossible – that they just can't get along.

What Do You Need to Introduce a Kitten to an Older Cat?

Before you go out to the local shelter to adopt a kitten, you need to set the stage at home. What do you need to help ensure that your new kitten is introduced properly?

Duplicate Cat Supplies

First up, you'll want a duplicate set of all of the basic cat supplies you'll need. Even friendly cats often don't want to share their food or their litter box. It's generally recommended to have one food bowl for each cat in a household and one litter box for each, plus one additional box as a backup. Simple items like cat beds and toys should also be duplicated so your kitten will have their own.

Other cat items, like scratching posts, are also good to have around. Scratching isn't just to expend energy and sharpen claws; it's to mark territory using those scratches, as well as scent glands in their paws. If the two are competing to mark one pole, they'll either fight over it, or one will turn to marking other things, like your furniture.

A Closeable Room

One of the most important tools at your disposal for introducing a new kitten is a room where the kitten can be closed off and safe. Most people choose to use a bathroom for this, but a spare bedroom, a large enough closet, or a laundry room can all work. Just make sure the door is able to close fully without leaving a gap that your cat can look under.

I'll go into more in a later section, but the main purpose of this is to help get your cats used to each other through sound and smell before they see each other. It's a way to familiarize them with each other in small doses, where they can't get off on the wrong foot.

You generally want to pick a smaller room, and preferably one that your older cat doesn't use much. If you usually keep your older cat's litter box in the bathroom, don't designate the bathroom as your kitten room; it feels even more like a hostile takeover that way.

Hand Towels and a Baby Gate

These are two critical supplies. You'll probably have towels or washcloths around that you can use – and in the absence of either, a shirt or other bit of fabric will do. A baby gate, though, you might not have on hand.

Fortunately, depending on where you buy one from, you can often return it when you're done since you won't need it for too long. Alternatively, see if any of your friends with children have an old gate you can borrow.

Optional: Cat Pheromones

Pheromones are natural hormones everyone produces. Cats produce them for a variety of reasons, and people have found ways to package and use them. The most common use case for cat pheromones is as a calming agent. Whether you buy a spray bottle or a diffuser, you can use this in the days leading up to when you bring your kitten home to help accentuate your older cat's sense of calm and well-being.

Pheromones are optional because some cats won't need them, and some cats can even react badly to them. Also, if your cat has enough stress and anxiety for other reasons, pheromones won't be able to fully counteract it, so it won't help all that much. Remember, they're a small assistant tool, not a solution to major problems.

Note that you should not use medications to try to calm your cat. Drugging your cat while introducing a kitten isn't going to work out well for anyone.

The Process for Introducing a Kitten to an Older Cat

Now that you've laid the groundwork, it's time to get started with the introductions. Well, almost. You still have a little bit to do.

Make Sure Your Older Cat is Healthy

This is a simple one, but just take your older cat to the vet a week or two before you start the introduction process. You want to make sure your older cat is healthy and that they don't have any current sources of pain or anxiety that will further stress them out. It's also a good time to make sure vaccinations are up to date.

Note: It's also a good idea to know the FeLV and FIV status of both your older cat and your incoming kitten so you can take any additional steps as necessary. Talk to your vet about it if necessary.

Now, your stage is set, and it's time to go get the kitten.

Day One Introductions

When you bring your new kitten home, do so in a carrier, and simply put the carrier down and let your older cat investigate. They'll immediately show some kind of reaction, whether it's curiosity, standoffishness, or an immediate dislike. This helps you determine what the process will be like and how long it will take.

Once this is done, bring the kitten – still in their carrier – to your kitten room. Release them and sit with them to get them used to the room, show them where things like their litter box and food are, and help them feel more comfortable in their new space.

Week One Acclimation

For around a week, you'll be keeping your new kitten isolated in this room. Your two cats will be able to smell and hear each other but not see each other. This prevents miscommunications and disconnects from body language and helps them both be aware there's another cat in the home.

Chances are good that your older cat will get curious and will start to watch, listen, or even paw at the door where the kitten is hiding. Don't take this as a sure sign that they're ready to interact, though.

During this time, don't forget to spend plenty of time and love with your older cat so they don't feel replaced or neglected because of the newcomer. They'll also have the scent of the kitten on you to contend with, which can help associate that scent with positive interactions.

This is also where the towels come in. Rub each cat with a towel, and then swap the towels and leave them in each other's spaces. It's further spreading the scent in an inoffensive way.

If the cats tend to stay away from the door out of anxiety for one another, you can help bridge that gap by feeding them on opposite sides of the door when it's closed. You can supervise this, and when they do any interaction that is positive, you can reward it with additional treats.

Opening the Door

The next step is the face-to-face introduction, and this is where the baby gate comes in. Yes, cats are going to have no trouble jumping over a baby gate, but the goal is not to prevent that; it's just to provide some small barrier against direct tussling.

Chances are, they'll be curious and hopefully not immediately hostile to one another. They're putting faces to the scents and sounds they've gotten used to. Let them sniff and watch each other, and reward their good behavior with treats.

From here, it's only a short hop to removing the gate and letting the kitten roam.

Boundaries and Budding Friendships

Once your cats are acclimated enough that you can let the kitten out of the kitten room, you just need to keep an eye on both and see how they interact.

Here are some things to watch for and what to do if you see them, as well as a few additional tips:

• Don't immediately go put the litter boxes and food dishes side by side. This can feel like a big enough jump to "invasion of territory" that it can lead to bullying one cat or the other out of their access.

• Don't worry too much about a little hissing or even small bats and swats at the kitten. Your older cat will want to set boundaries and define the relationship. If they get into actual fights or constant yowling stand-offs, you may need to backtrack to keeping them separate for longer.

• Start to build collaborative playtime. Playing with both cats at the same time, in the same space, can distract them from their enmity and put them onto social activities they can do together.

• Watch for warning signs of over-stressed cats, like spraying or inappropriate urination, excessive vocalization, or stress grooming. These might warrant a vet consultation or a visit with a cat behaviorist.

Fortunately, it's generally rare that your older cat absolutely refuses to get along with a new kitten. If that happens, you may need to return the kitten, but make sure to give it time and be patient.

If all goes well, your cats will fall in sync and start to either tolerate or enjoy each other's company.

Do you have any questions? If so, I'm always more than happy to help however I can! Just leave me a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

The same thing can apply to our household pets. As much as they're members of our families – and as much as we as humans have bred them to be more adapted to household living rather than running wild – they still have mental and physical needs.

It's our duty as pet parents to provide for those needs. The trouble is, modern society forces most of us to work 9-5s, spending a good portion of our waking hours away from the home and away from our canine companions.

That's where enrichment comes in. What can we do to provide enrichment for our pups, even when we're not around? Let's talk about it.

All About Enrichment for Dogs

Before I get into toy recommendations, I wanted to talk a little about what enrichment is in the context of dogs.

What is enrichment, specifically?

Any animal has needs. These needs come in different categories: physical, mental, and emotional.

When you examine each of these categories, you can further break them down into a bunch of different kinds of needs.

• Health needs, like disease prevention, parasite treatment, and pain management.

• Hygiene needs, like ear cleaning, tooth cleaning, and fur brushing.

• Dietary needs, including both regular food and treats.

• Exercise needs, usually focused on meeting physical fitness goals.

• Sensory needs, including stimulation for all five senses, as well as preventing undue stimulation.

• Safety needs, including environmental safety.

• Security needs, including both physical and mental security.

• Social needs, like being able to play with people or other dogs.

• Behavioral needs, which are often breed-specific, like herding or foraging behaviors.

• Mental needs, like mental stimulation, tricks, and puzzles.

Technically speaking, meeting all of these different kinds of needs is enrichment. However, these days, when you talk about enrichment, you're mostly talking about the "more than bare minimum" activities: letting your greyhounds run, letting your hunting dogs forage, and the like.

Think of it like cabin fever. Being cooped up in a small space like a home or apartment with nothing much to do will leave you bored and can lead to anxiety, neurotic behaviors, and more. It goes just as much for people as it does for dogs.

Why do dogs need enrichment toys?

Enrichment is critical to keep your pups happy and healthy. Enrichment toys are a way to help do that, either because you don't have a good way to allow a behavior and need to simulate it or because you aren't around enough to provide that enrichment yourself.

It's a sort of self-serve enrichment option, basically.

There are all manner of benefits to enrichment, but they all basically come back to one thing: keeping your dog healthy. Dogs that lack enrichment can develop behavioral issues like anxiety, destructive tendencies, neuroticism, and other issues.

Enrichment can also help extend the life of a dog. Bored and anxious dogs end up stressed out, and stress causes all sorts of problems and can make other issues – like diseases – worse.

Types of Enrichment Toys to Consider

I'm not going to give you specific toy recommendations because the market is huge. Instead, I'm going to talk about specific kinds of toys and leave it to you to decide what specific toys within that category you want to get.

Lick and Chew Toys

First up are some of the most common kinds of enrichment toys, which are toys meant to be licked at and chewed.

Often, these hide a treat inside, like a dab of (xylitol-free) peanut butter, which your dog can spend time getting at. The chewing helps keep their teeth clean, the licking gives them a sensory experience, and the toy can be a source of excitement when you bring it out and give it to them.

Chew toys need to be resilient, but even the most resilient toy can eventually start to break apart under continual chewing, so make sure to inspect it each time you use it and replace it if it starts to break up so your dog doesn't eat or choke on something they shouldn't.

Snuffle Mats

Snuffle mats are sort of like very plush rugs. They're meant to mimic the experience of rooting around in a fairly deep lawn, looking for anything interesting hidden in the grass.

Many different dog breeds love this kind of foraging behavior, and a snuffle mat helps you encourage it. Hide a couple of treats in the mat and let your pooch root around in it, looking for the nugget of tasty reward.

Snuffle mats need to be cleaned and, often, replaced as they start to fall apart. Fortunately, they're relatively cheap and easy to find, so you don't need to worry about their longevity too much. Just make sure they're made of a pet-safe material.

Lick Mats

Lick mats are a sort of cross between snuffle mats and lick toys. They're textured mats that you smear something like wet food or peanut butter in and let your dog go wild on trying to lick it all out.

It takes time because of the texture hiding the goodies in the nooks and crevices, but it's not quite the same kind of behavior as snuffle mats.

As an added bonus, these tend to be more easily cleanable and more durable. On the other hand, if you're not proactive with cleaning them, they can get really smelly really fast.

Puzzle Toys

Puzzle toys are usually made of fairly durable plastic with little compartments you can use to hide kibble or treats.

Your dog knows the treats are there – they can smell it – but they need to figure out how to get past the doors or mechanisms hiding them. It's sort of like a puzzle box for your canine child to figure out.

Simple puzzle toys are just sliding covers over compartments. More complex puzzle toys can be interlocking mechanisms that need to be moved in a certain order to access later treats.

There are hundreds, if not thousands, of different designs, so you may need to go through a few before you find one that is complex enough to keep your dog entertained but not so complex that it leaves them frustrated.

Hide and Seek Toys

Hide-and-seek toys can honestly be just about anything you designate as a dog toy. Many people do things like take a dog's plushie and hide it under a pile of pillows or blankets or just hide it somewhere in the house and then ask their dog to go find it.

Dedicated hide-and-seek toys are a combination of toy and hide. For example, a big fake eggshell with a plushie chick inside. You place the egg somewhere and have your dog go find the chick. It's the same concept, just without having to risk sacrificing pillows or blankets for the cause.

These are excellent toys for dogs that love to go seek out something, especially those who are bred to be hunting dogs or have a strong drive to dig. Uncovering a hidden treasure is a pleasure they love.

Scent Toys

Scent toys are somewhat similar to hide-and-seek toys, but they work primarily on specific scents to help your pooch find them.

Usually, they come with some kind of little scent spray or scent card that provides a unique scent to track, which you hide for your dog to locate when you call for it.

Agility Toys

Some dogs can't get enough of running around and jumping, and if they could, they would have you play fetch with them for 18 hours a day.

Agility toys and courses are a good way to help stimulate this drive while also adding an intellectual element to it so it can tire them out and leave them more satisfied.

I've written about setting up basic dog agility courses before, including what kind of agility elements work well and how you can lay out courses to get started. The only caveat is that you need the space to do it, but if you can get it rolling, it's a wonderful option.

Toys for You Too

There's also a category of enrichment toys that you have to take part in as well. Agility toys fall into this category, but there are also simple versions like durable balls for fetch, knotted ropes for tug-of-war, and other simple activity toys that work great, too.

On top of this, one of the best forms of enrichment is training. Teaching your dog new tricks and variations on older tricks helps to engage their brains. When those brains get working, you have a very satisfied dog at the end of it.

How to Pick a Good Enrichment Toy

Let's finish things off by talking about how to pick the right enrichment toys for your dog.

First of all, you'll never be able to just buy one or two toys and call it good. Dogs will get bored of the same toys over and over all the time, so you'll want to rotate the selection in and out.

You can do this when they start losing interest, on a set schedule, or even seasonally; it all depends on your dog and your selection of toys.

Secondly, you need to pick toys that address the specific needs of your dog. Different dogs of different breeds will have different proclivities.

Some won't take well to agility. Some prefer the more cognitive puzzles rather than physical activities. Some have a huge drive to hide and seek and aren't going to be interested in the more straightforward tug-of-war and other activities.

This will all change over time, too. It can depend on the breed of your dog, but also their age, their personality, and even their experience. Puzzles, in particular, tend to escalate as your pooch gets used to the simpler options and wants something more complex.

When it comes to selecting the toys specifically, there's a lot to consider.

• Make sure the toys are made of durable and non-toxic, non-dangerous materials. Expect your dog to be licking, chewing, and otherwise tearing at the toys. If it has something like a woven fabric or a filling, you need to make sure that if your dog swallows some, it won't hurt them. Long strings are a common failure point here and can cause intestinal blockages.

• Size them appropriately. Getting a toy that's too large for a small dog can be frustrating for them to use. Getting a toy that's too small for a large dog can also be frustrating in different ways, plus it can be a choking hazard.

• Don't overlap the same enrichment too much. Even if your dog is primarily food-motivated, using only food-based enrichment can get stale over time.

With so many options available, it's hard to pick anything to be the best, so expect to experiment until you find what your dog enjoys the most.

Dog Enrichment Toy FAQ

Let's answer a few questions you might have before I let you go.

I have two dogs that play with each other: do I still need enrichment toys?

Yes! If your dogs have to rely on one another for enrichment, things go wrong when one is ill or tired, and there's only so much of the right kinds of enrichment involved.

You still need to meet other needs beyond the social.

How much do enrichment toys cost?

It all depends on the kind of toy and the brand, but most enrichment toys will cost somewhere between $10 and $40.

If you're paying much more than that, ask yourself what you're getting for the money; similarly, if it's much less, wonder what they're cutting for the savings.

What if my dog isn't very food-motivated?

There are all sorts of enrichment toys that don't need food to be successful. Scent toys, hide-and-seek toys, and agility toys all fall into this group.

Every dog will have something they love; you just need to find it!

So, what are your favorite enrichment toys for your dogs? Let me know in the comments!

What you don't think of as often is our cats doing the same thing. Yet they can and they will; cats will happily pursue your meal and, given half the chance, might steal it right off your plate while you glance away for a moment.

There are a few differences, of course. Dogs are generally a lot more obedient and receptive to commands, so when you tell them to stop begging and go to their bed or stay out of the dining room, they'll usually listen. Cats, though? While you can train a cat, whether or not they listen to your commands is another story.

Note that this is primarily a post about your cat begging for table scraps and human food when you're making or eating your own meals. For cats who beg for their own food around meal times (or whenever they want to eat), that's another story. Some of the same tips will work, but it's a subject worth another post of its own. If you want me to write that one, let me know in the comments!

So, if you have a cat that loves nothing more than to beg for a bite of your dinner – or who leaps onto the table and tries to take it for themselves – you likely want to deal with it. The question is, how? The good news is that it's possible, but it may take some trial and error and some frustration until you get it right.

Why It's a Good Idea to Stop Your Cat from Begging

First, let's talk a little bit about why it's a good idea to train this behavior out of your feline friend. Cats are small, and while they can be pushy, it's not exactly that difficult to shove them away while you eat, right?

There are a few reasons why it's a good idea to stop begging behaviors.

• A pushy cat can be unpleasant to deal with during meal times.

• There's a small element of danger; if you push your cat away and they cling, you can be scratched.

• Many human foods are dangerous or toxic to cats, but they don't know that, so if they steal a bite, it can end up hurting them.

• Cats aren't likely to discriminate, and a cat being pushy at mealtimes can be unpleasant for guests you have over.

So, training begging out of your cat isn't just for mealtime comfort; it's for both your safety and the safety of your feline friend.

Why Cats Beg for Food

As with most behaviors and most training, it's generally a good idea to know why your cat is begging so you can diagnose the root cause and address it if possible.

Now, sometimes, none of these causes apply. Sometimes, your cat just likes you and wants to share in what you're doing with you, and since what you're doing is focusing your attention on your plate, they want to do that, too.

Your cat is on a diet and is hungry.

One of the most common reasons why cats beg for food is because they're hungry. Sure, it sounds obvious, but surprisingly, people often overlook this as a cause.

It's most common with obese cats who are being put on caloric restrictions, but it can also crop up with cats that are just used to being able to free graze, or adoptions that were fed more at a shelter, or were used to hunting a local bird or rodent whenever they were hungry.

One thing to consider is if you've recently switched to an automatic feeder, which might be handing out smaller portions than you normally would. That's not necessarily a bad thing for your cat's health, but it might be a cause you didn't think of right away.

Your cat is having their food stolen.

This is most common if you have two cats, a cat and a dog, or a cat and another pet around the house, like a ferret. You feed your animals, but the one who finishes first goes on to bully the other out of food or just steal some of it.

At the root, it's the same cause as the above; your cat is just hungry. In this case, though, your cat is being pushed out of eating their full allotment of food.

I've even heard of cases where indoor/outdoor cats (or even neighborhood strays) sneak in through a doggy door and steal food, and the parent in the house doesn't notice.

If you have multiple animals in your house or access to the outdoors, try finding a more isolated space where you can feed your cat and see if that helps.

Your cat has a health condition affecting digestion or cravings.

There are a bunch of different medical conditions that can cause hunger, change metabolism, or make your cat feel like they should beg for more food.

Diabetes and hyperthyroidism are both issues that can lead to excessive hunger and thirst, even if your cat is eating enough. They just aren't digesting and using the energy properly, so they end up hungry.

There are also other diseases that can impact digestion or the ability to pull energy from food. Kidney disease, gut diseases, temporary illnesses, cancers, and more can all cause problems.

Mouth, tooth, and other dental diseases can also be a cause.

Your cat wants to eat, but they find it painful, so they can't eat their fill. But they're still hungry, so they beg for food even if they have it.

If this begging is a new, sudden behavior, and you haven't changed anything that could be attributed as a cause, like swapping their food, you might consider bringing them to the vet for a checkup.

Your cat has a parasite.

Parasites, by their very nature, pull nutrients from their host. Your cat is effectively eating for two, against their will.

Worms are the most common cause and are especially prevalent in cats that spend time outdoors. Things like fleas are less likely to cause begging because of how little they pull from your cat.

You will usually see other signs of worms as well. Upset stomachs, vomiting, bloody stool, diarrhea, a pot-bellied appearance, and visible worm segments around their rear end can all be signs. For these, a vet trip and some medication can clear it up.

Your cat is picky about their food.

Some cats like change in their routine. If you feed them the same thing all the time, they'll get bored of it and stop eating all of the food you give them.

Varying up the flavors in the wet foods, changing brands for dry foods, mixing the two, and other options can all spice things up without having to resort to human food.

Your cat has a behavioral quirk.

This is my last catch-all cause.

Your cat is just greedy. Some cats are! If you have a regular little Garfield who would love nothing more than snarfing down a whole lasagna, it happens.

Just like some people have a greater love of food than others, so do some cats. The begging can still be trained away; it just doesn't have as easy a cause to diagnose.

Your cat is bored. Begging is a way to get some attention from you and something to do. If you notice that your cat begs for food, but when you give them food, they don't seem very interested, there's a decent chance that what they're begging for is your attention instead.

Your cat has developed a habit of begging. Some cats just learn that when they beg for food, you provide it, even if it's during scheduled mealtimes. It's a reinforced behavior, and you may have unwittingly trained your cat to beg around mealtimes. Fortunately, again, this isn't too hard to train away once you realize that's what's happening.

Enough about the causes: how do you stop your cat from begging for food?

Step 0: Don't Give Them Your Food

It might sound obvious, but you need to be extremely disciplined about not letting your cat have any human food at meal times.

Whether it's you, your spouse, your friends, or your kids, make sure everyone knows that kitty can't have human food.

Step 1: Check for Signs of Medical Problems

The first thing you want to do is give your cat a solid once-over and make sure they don't have any of the medical issues I mentioned above.

You'll want to:

• Check their litter box for signs of diarrhea, bloody stool, or other problems.

• Check their rear for signs of worms.

• Check their mouth for signs of abscesses, cavities, broken teeth, gum disease, or other mouth problems.

• Check their body for signs of bloating, parasites, intestinal blockages, lumps, or other problems.

If you don't notice anything, you can move on to the next step. You might also consider scheduling a near-future vet trip for a medical once-over, especially if you're not confident or if you're getting a bad vibe from your furry friend. Cats are very adept at hiding their problems, after all.

Step 2: Establish a Feeding Routine

Cats are very much creatures of habit, and that means they prefer being fed in the same place and at the same time every day. If you're late or you change things up, your cat might take to begging to remind you.

Bear in mind that cats might need different feeding schedules, especially if you have cats of different ages. Some cats thrive on multiple smaller meals throughout the day, while others prefer a more normal 2-3 times per day schedule. Consistency is the key, either way.

While you're at it, check for signs that your cat is being bullied out of their food by another animal in the house. If it's happening, you may need to isolate your creatures during feeding times.

Step 3: Work on Training the Begging Away

If your cat is begging, how do you train them to stop?

One of the most important things to do is don't give in. You need to ignore your cat when they beg and refuse to give them so much as a single treat or bit of kibble (unless it's normal meal times.) You shouldn't talk back to them, make eye contact, or pet them, either.

Yes, sometimes your cat will be very pushy and might jump onto you to scream in your face about it.

Just move them away, or get up and move, possibly even closing them in a room so you can eat elsewhere in peace. You need your cat to learn that begging doesn't work.

During this time, you can work on positive training using their meal as the reward. They'll already be food-motivated since they're hungry, so it will work more easily than many other kinds of training.

Cat Food Begging FAQ

To round things out, here are a couple of questions I didn't have a place for up above.

Should you startle or scare your cat to stop begging?

While a loud clap, a spray bottle, or other discouragement can get your cat to stop begging, it's also a terrible thing to do. It stresses them out, makes them anxious, and can hurt your bond with your furry friend.

You want to use positive training methods, not negative behaviors.

Should you consider a puzzle feeder?

Puzzle feeders are usually more of a thing for dogs to slow down aggressive eating, but they can also work for cats. A puzzle feeder can help with the slow-grazing kind of throughout-the-day feeding method and helps keep your cat more engaged.

The trick is that you have to make sure you don't give them treats, or they'll just come to you begging when the puzzle feeder seems like too much work.

What are the chances that begging is a medical problem?

Fairly low. While medical problems can cause begging, most of the time, you'll see other symptoms instead, and your cat might actually be more prone to hide during mealtimes so they don't risk showing their pain to others.

Begging is essentially never an emergency vet trigger, but it might be worth mentioning at your next regular checkup or on a quick phone call or video visit.

Do you have any questions? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you with an answer as soon as I can!

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There are many large breeds of dog, but one stands above the rest – literally. It's the Great Dane, the current holder of the world record for tallest dog ever recorded. The specific tallest Great Dane is one named Zeus.

What is the truth behind Zeus? Don't worry; there's no dark secret, no "allegations" or doping involved here. Just a very large, good boy.

All About Zeus, the World's Largest Great Dane

Zeus was the official record holder for the world's largest Great Dane and, consequently, the world's largest dog. He was also a very good dog; despite his huge stature, he was a loving lap dog when given the chance. He liked nothing more than to hang out in the laps of his parents while they spent time on the porch.

He was also a certified therapy dog, often visiting hospitals and schools around his hometown in the Kalamazoo, Michigan, area. His gentle demeanor and immaculate training helped him ease the anxieties of students, hospital patients, and many more people besides.

Zeus was a huge dog, and huge dogs have huge lives. At his peak, he weighed 155 pounds (more than some people!) and was tall enough that he could drink from a kitchen sink without having to work for it. He ate a whopping 12 cups of food a day to sustain his massive frame.

When measured, from his front paw to his withers (the front shoulder of a quadruped), he was three feet and eight inches tall. When standing on his hind legs, he could stretch up to seven feet and five inches.

Remember those wolves I mentioned in the intro? The average wolf is only 2.5-3 feet tall at the shoulder. Great Danes stand as tall or taller than wolves! Of course, wolves are bulkier and fluffier than Danes, so it's hardly a fair comparison.

Unfortunately, Zeus passed away in 2014, at the age of six, from symptoms of old age. This is one sad and unfortunate truth: the larger a dog is, the shorter their life span is going to be. Smaller breeds (without health complications) can live to be 14 or older, but giant breeds like Great Danes often only live to be around six, up to 10 at the oldest. For a dog as large as Zeus, six was on the shorter end of expected but still within expectations.

Zeus held the title of the world's tallest living dog while he was alive. After his passing in 2014, his record was taken by a dog named Freddy, also a Great Dane, from Leigh-on-Sea, Essex, England. Freddy was slightly shorter than Zeus, but since the record was for the world's tallest living dog, it naturally had to move on.

Freddy passed away at the age of 8 in 2021. His successor was another dog named Zeus, this time from Bedford, Texas. This Zeus was also a hair shorter than the previous Zeus, though he came closer. He has passed as well; a diagnosis of bone cancer led to the amputation of his leg, and complications from that surgery caused pneumonia that led to his end.

The current tallest living dog is named Kevin, after Kevin McAllister from Home Alone, and stands three feet and two inches from foot to withers. He's from Des Moines, Iowa. For now, anyway, he holds the record until another tall dog comes along to challenge him.

For fans of the original Zeus, don't worry; he still holds a world record as the tallest dog ever recorded, which even his successors as the tallest living dog don't match.

Everything to Know about Great Danes

If you love the idea of a giant canine by your side, there's a lot to know about them. Giant breeds like Great Danes are definitely larger-than-life, but the reality of caring for one as a pet parent needs some grounding before you go find a puppy to adopt.

As a giant dog breed, Great Danes fortunately have a very pleasant temperament. They're fairly good with children and other dogs, though sometimes their size can cause problems just out of sheer bulk and scale. Luckily, they're also very affectionate and loving; otherwise, they could be very scary creatures.

The Great Dane was officially recognized as a breed by the American Kennel Club all the way back in 1887. They're known by a bunch of different names around the world, including German Mastiffs, Boarhounds, and Grand Danois. Once upon a time, they were commonly seen as guardian dogs for the German nobility and were often used as hunting dogs when pursuing prey like boar, deer, and even bears.

Most Great Danes aren't as large as Zeus and his successors. The breed is usually around 32" tall at the shoulder (where Zeus was 44"), with some smaller and some larger. They're still massive, but they're also fairly lean dogs. They aren't as chunky or as fluffy as other huge breeds like Newfoundlands, Saint Bernards, or other mastiffs. In fact, their coats are generally short and sleek, almost similar to horses in a way.

The Health of the Great Dane

As a giant breed, health is extremely important. Danes are susceptible to a variety of illnesses, but the number one cause of death for Danes is GDV, Gastric Dilation-Volvulus, also known as Bloat. This is an awful condition, also known as "twisted stomach," wherein the dog's stomach is excessively stretched, rotates due to excessive gas, and gets cut off. It's an illness that can affect dogs primarily, but in rare cases, it can even affect cats and guinea pigs. It's simply more common the larger and deeper-chested the breed or species is.

Since GDV is such a risk and has such a high mortality rate, some Dane parents get a prophylactic surgery that can help with some of the worst aspects of it and buy more time if it does occur.

Danes can also develop eye issues, hypothyroidism, cardiac problems, autoimmune thyroiditis, and hip dysplasia, especially as they get older. Great Dane breeders screen for conditions as much as possible, and responsible pet parents make sure to get Dane-specific medical examinations regularly.

Caring for a Great Dane

Taking care of a dog the size of a Great Dane is no easy feat. Fortunately, since they're affectionate and loving, they're also fairly easy to train and aren't going to be too headstrong, at least in general. Individuals, of course, can vary.

Danes have short coats and don't shed much, but even a little bit of shedding in a dog that size is going to be a lot of fur. Moreover, they do have an annual shedding season, where they shed a lot more. You'll need to brush them at least once a week and possibly daily during shedding season. Otherwise, their coats are fairly easy to care for, and you only need to give them a bath occasionally.

Definitely make sure to keep their nails trimmed. Since their feet are huge and they have a lot of weight behind them, over-long nails can cause pain, they can scratch your floors, and they can lead to problems with walking and even joints down the line.

Dogs the size of Danes need some amount of exercise to stay healthy. Fortunately, they aren't as active or as demanding as some of the more energetic breeds like Aussies and Greyhounds. They're fairly sedate, in fact, and are often happy just to hang out near you.

A couple of good walks every day is still good for them. You can bring them on more fast-paced jogs or runs, but only when they're older, so you don't risk damaging their joints as they're growing. Danes under two years old should be treated with care as they develop.

Danes are also fun dogs to teach agility to, though your average tunnels are going to be too small for them, and they're tall enough that the jumps might be steps. A course tailored to their size can be an impressive sight, though.

While I've said that Danes are loving, fairly obedient, and good with other dogs and children, you still need to make sure they're well-socialized when they're young, or they can cause problems. The larger a dog is, the harder it is to wrangle them if they're being disobedient. You especially want to make sure they're aware of themselves and their surroundings.

Despite it all, they respond well to affection, and you may not even need treats to train them; praise and loving are good enough for most.

Food is also critical for Danes. They require great nutrition, both so you don't stunt their growth when they're young, and so you don't hurt them and shorten their lifespans as they age. Overweight Danes put a ton of stress on their joints and will very quickly develop pain while walking.

• Give them high-quality food. Yes, they'll eat a lot of it, and yes, it will be expensive, but that's part of having a giant breed.

• Avoid table scraps. Anything with cooked bones can be deadly, and anything with high fat content can cause GDV.

• Give them more frequent, smaller meals throughout the day. This helps prevent overeating and stretching the stomach, which can also cause GDV.

It's a lot of work to care for a Great Dane, but the rewards are a huge, loving, and fiercely loyal dog who will be with you for many years.

How to Adopt a Great Dane

If all of this sounds like a burden you're willing to bear, adopting a Great Dane can be a great option.

This is where things can get a little tricky, though. I'm a firm believer in the "adopt, don't shop" ethos. There are simply far too many loving dogs stuck in shelters while people seek out purebred puppies from breeders.

Great Danes are huge and a lot of work to care for properly. That means a lot of people buy Dane puppies but end up surrendering or abandoning them when they get too big to handle. This is devastating for these loyal and loving dogs, but it's also a good opportunity for you.

Seek out a respectable and reputable rescue, first and foremost. Generic rescue services like Petfinder can help, but you're more likely best off going with specific regional rescues.

For example, Great Dane Rescue is a nonprofit group that was founded in 1993 as a way to help care for and re-home relinquished Great Danes. They cover parts of the Midwest and Ontario, Canada.

Another great option is Save Rocky, a Great Dane Rescue and Rehab organization. They're also a reputable nonprofit organization based out of Texas. Their name comes from a Dane who was euthanized needlessly despite offers to save him, and his mark is carried forward by the rescue organization. Save Rocky is based in Texas but operates nationwide, so the further away you are, the more you'll need to travel to adopt.

Others you can check out include:

• Regal Dane Rescue, serving Arizona and parts of New Mexico.

• Great Dane Friends, in North and South Carolina.

• One Dane At a Time, based out of Southern California.

• The Mid-Atlantic Great Dane Rescue League, operating along the East Coast from Virginia to New York.

If you know of other reputable Great Dane rescues, feel free to mention them in the comments below, as well! These gentle giants deserve loving homes, and there are enough of them out there that – in my view – there's no reason to get one from a breeder.

While the Dane you adopt isn't likely to grow to be a world-record holder like Zeus, you're sure to have a giant friend with a giant heart making a giant mark on your life when you adopt one.

When The “Natural” Claim Isn’t Enough—Choose Third-Party Certified Raw Materials for Your Dog Supplies

It’s veeeery easy to fall for pet products that claim “natural,” “safe,” or “eco-friendly” properties—until you realize those words mean nothing without proof. And when it comes to your dog’s health, happiness, and longevity, guessing isn’t good enough.

At toe beans, we make products for dog parents who double-check labels, follow recall news, and know better than to trust mass-market promises.

We fondly like to call them “the well-informed dog parents.” If you are one of those, keep on reading.

We Don’t Just Say It’s Safe—We Prove It

Unlike almost all overseas-made pet products out there, often white-labeled and loaded with cancer-causing chemicals, all toe beans items (with a few exceptions) are made here in the USA by us in our own facility, or by thoroughly screened and vetted American artisans who share our values and believe in the superiority of American manufacturing, small batch production, full raw-material traceability, and supply chain controls and oversight.

We unapologetically reject the pet industry’s pervasive practice of cutting corners in their raw materials to increase profits. Rather, we only use the highest quality of raw materials the world has to offer to meet the most stringent third-party certifications standards —like USDA Organic, USDA Bio-based, GOTS^®, Oeko-Tex^®, and FSC^® certifications amongst others.

Hey, we get it, we ain’t cheap, but we are not meant to be either. The market is already infested with enough cheap options, we are just not one of those. You’ll find that same level of commitment to quality and radical transparency in every single product we make and sell, whether it’s:

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As pet parents, we know the guilt that creeps in when something you trusted for your dog turns out to be harmful. That’s why we’re radically transparent from the ground up —no hidden ingredients, no overseas factories, no “globally sourced ingredients”, no games.

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Purebred cats are often quirky in their own ways, with breed characteristics that make them iconic in appearance, behavior, and personality. They can be an absolute joy! They can also be expensive, as pure breeds often end up prone to certain illnesses. They may not be for everyone, but for those who care for and love them, it's a great feeling knowing they're something special.

Among the many possible purebred cats out there is the Bengal. You've probably heard of them and seen their leopard-like appearance, and you wonder: is a Bengal cat right for you? I'm here to help you make that decision.

What is the History of the Bengal Cat Breed?

Have you ever looked at a giant wild cat – a lion, a tiger, an ocelot, or a leopard – and thought, "Wow, I'd love to have one of those!" Unless you're a criminal, you can't, but a Bengal is the next best thing.

While Bengals share an appearance with certain wild cats, like the leopard, they have much more in common with our normal domestic felines. That's by design!

In fact, the Bengal is the result of a selective breeding program started in the 1960s by a woman named Jean Mill. Jean, like many of us, was fascinated by wild cats. On a trip to Southeast Asia, she saw the Leopard Cat – a relatively small wild cat native to the area.

The Asian Leopard Cat is about the same size as our domesticated cats. It's also a relatively friendly wild cat, as far as wild cats go – with archeological evidence suggesting that it was domesticated 5,000+ years ago in certain areas of China. The modern Leopard Cat is, of course, a wild cat, but the potential is there.

Leopard Cats are classified as Least Concern as far as endangerment as a species today, but back in the '60s, they were coming a lot closer to extinction due to poaching and fur trading. Kittens of the species were often sold as keepsakes, a sort of living souvenir, and Jean Mill bought one.

While the kitten Jean adopted – named Malaysia – was a solitary and skeptical animal, it did take to the partnership of a domestic black cat Jean also kept around, and in a twist that surprised many at the time, produced a viable kitten.

In any other story, you might think this would be an immediate turn to the goal of breeding cats, but Jean didn't take to it right away. It wasn't until 15 years later that she read a study about certain types of cats and cat cross-breeds that had an immunity to feline leukemia, including cross-breeds of leopard cats.

It was at this point that Jean started to work with those scientists to develop the species we now know as the Bengal. Her breeding incorporated elements of Leopard Cats and other breeds like Burma and Mau.

She faced many challenges, including hybrid males that ended up sterile (a common problem with near-species cross-breeds, like Mules and Ligers), but eventually produced the breed we know and love today.

What Are the Breed Characteristics of Bengal Cats?

What makes a Bengal a Bengal?

In most ways, Bengal cats are more or less the same as domestic cats. They may have some lineage of the wild cat, but their personalities are much closer to that of our lovable feline friends. The main thing the wild breeds add to the mix is the unique and striking fur coat.

Bengals look exotic. They're usually a shade of orange, ranging from faint orange to deeper, almost-brown orange. Their coat is mottled with spots like a leopard, with stripes on the legs and tail, all made of dark brown or almost black patches.

What does the F mean? Sometimes, when you're looking at Bengals, you'll see a label like "F4 Bengal" or "F2 Bengal" for the breed. The lower the number, the closer the cat is to the original wild cat in the lineage. It's a generational number!

Often, due to their more reclusive and hesitant natures, F1/2/3 Bengals aren't allowed (by state law!) to be generally adopted. F4 and higher tend to be much more outgoing and more like domesticated cats.

Over time, other varieties of Bengals have cropped up as well and been selectively bred by breeders and catteries around the world. Lighter, very pale versions are called Snow Lynx Bengals. Strikingly black-and-white cats are called Silver Bengals.

Blue Bengals have a blue-gray coloring that almost appears blue in the light. Some Bengals have the original black cat heritage and look almost pure black until their spots are revealed in the light. You can see an illustration here.

• Lifespan: 10-16 years on average.

• Coat: Short, though some long-hair Bengals, called Cashmeres, exist.

• Energy level: High.

• Attitude: Bold and affectionate.

In addition to their strikingly wild look, Bengals are ferociously playful, very social, vocal, and too clever for their own good. Get those child locks out and get ready to deal with a furry escape artist because a Bengal won't let anything stop them if they have places to be.

Training a Bengal Cat

Bengals are very intelligent, and they can learn quickly. They're very playful and interactive, and they have a lot of energy, so they really need a lot of stimulation and interaction to stay happy.

Basic cat training is often relatively easy with Bengals, and they pick up what you're putting down relatively quickly. Things like litter training, training them not to scratch the furniture, and training them out of certain behaviors (or into others) is quick and relatively painless.

Bengals can also learn some tricks. They can be almost dog-like in how responsive they can be to certain commands, and you can train a Bengal to sit, to come, to shake, or to jump. Just remember to use positive reinforcement and be consistent with your training!

One fun thing about Bengals is that they're actually pretty easy to harness-train. You can teach your Bengal how to happily wear a harness and leash, and then you can take them out for walks and explore just like you would a dog.

Bengals even enjoy water! Whether it's hopping into the bath with you or taking a dip in a pool or pond when you're out, they'll happily swim around when the mood strikes them.

When they're not getting into trouble or having fun, Bengals love to explore, and they are fantastic jumpers. If you're wondering where your Bengal is, check on top of the cupboards and shelves first.

And, at the end of the day, Bengals form close bonds with their parents and tend to be very affectionate.

Warning: If you're not able to spend a lot of time and energy on your cat, don't get a Bengal. They really need attention, play, and affection to thrive, and if you have to leave them alone for eight hours a day while you work, you're going to have a lot of issues with them. They will also get into anything and everything if they can, which can be dangerous if you haven't properly cat-proofed your home.

To sum it all up, Bengal cats are a bit much, in all the best and worst ways.

Do Bengal Cats Have Health Issues?

Purebreds of any animal tend to have health issues unless they're very, very carefully controlled, and even then, it's sometimes just an unavoidable fact of genetics. What about Bengals?

There's good news and bad news here.

The good news is that Bengals are considered a pretty healthy cat breed. Since the breed is new, and it wasn't developed until after we had a pretty good societal understanding of genetics (at least the basics), many of the common causes of health issues in purebreds aren't there.

You don't have the stubby snouts, the tendency for kidney issues, or the susceptibility to diseases that you get from breeds that were produced through hundreds of years of inbreeding.

Bengals do, however, have some tendencies. They are particularly prone to eye problems, including progressive retinal atrophy, cataracts (no pun intended), and an eyelid issue called entropion.

They are also more prone to cardiomyopathy and joint issues than your usual domestic feline. It's also possible that Bengals are more likely than other breeds to develop lymphoma.

Bengals are also generally extra-sensitive to anesthesia, particularly ketamine. This means a vet needs to know how to deal with the breed for procedures like surgeries, where their normal anesthetic protocol could risk severe side effects on a Bengal.

Some Bengals go their whole lives without any of these issues, while others develop them surprisingly young. The key is to know what to watch for and, if your cat experiences any of them, to know how to deal with it.

How to Care For a Bengal Cat

Bengals don't need a lot beyond what most cats need. They're generally short-haired, so you only need to brush them every few days. Their nails need to be trimmed and their teeth need care, but that's the same as any cat.

The areas where Bengals need more attention are energy, exercise, and mental stimulation. A little automatic toy that swings a feather around won't cut it. Bengals have very high energy levels, and they're very smart, so they do best when you can dedicate time to playing with them in ways that engage their mind, not just their body.

One thing to be careful of is that Bengals can be a bit fierce when they play, and they can be very skeptical of newcomers. They can become fast friends with other cats, dogs, children, and other pets. But, if they get overstimulated, they can lash out.

Their playtime can get surprisingly violent, too, and another animal that isn't used to or prepared for it runs the risk of getting hurt. That applies to people and kids, too.

Food puzzles, training, vertical playgrounds, and fetch are all good options to play with a Bengal. They also love watching the outdoors, so make sure they have a nice shelf or platform near a window.

Where to Find a Bengal Cat to Adopt

As a pure breed, Bengals can be difficult to find.

This is a difficult question to answer, and not just because I don't know where you're reading this from. I'm generally against breeders on principle because there are millions of loving and deserving cats out there in shelters who run the risk of being euthanized.

There are, however, dedicated purebred rescue organizations across the country. Groups like SPCR in the Midwest help to rehome purebreds of all breeds.

Breed-specific rescues like Bengal Rescue (which operates in the west and southwest) and their partners, Great Lakes Bengal Rescue, can also be good options. You can also use more generic services like Chewy or Petfinder, though you never know for sure who is on the other end of such sites.

Adopt, don't shop. That's the only ethical way to get a purebred cat these days, with so many looking for their forever homes when life has abandoned them.

And, yes, Bengals can be expensive. Specialty rescues tend to charge higher fees than your average local shelter through a combination of demand, issues with unscrupulous adopters, and more. Whether you're looking at $500 or $1,000 for a cat, it wouldn't be a surprise. Though, even that is still cheaper than a breeder, so it's a win, really.

If you can rescue a Bengal, and you have the time and attention to give them, you'll be rewarded with one of the most intelligent, affectionate, and incredible cats in the world. Otherwise, I'd recommend setting your sights a little lower and checking out your local shelter for someone to love for more than just the spots on their coat.

Do you have any questions about Bengal cats? If so, I'm always more than happy to help however I can, so be sure to leave me a comment down below!

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In the past, I wrote about excessive licking in dogs – what causes it, why they do it, what it means, and why it can be a problem. For the part, that post was focused on licking other things, like the floors, the walls, or you. I did briefly mention the side effects of licking at themselves too much, but it wasn't the focus of the post.

Today, I wanted to talk a little more about self-licking. Sometimes, dogs end up seemingly fixated on licking themselves, particularly their paws. This can cause a bunch of issues, but the most common are "lick granulomas", which is just a fancy name for an open sore caused by excessive licking. It can also cause infections in cuts and scrapes they get naturally, and irritate other problems, making it take longer to heal.

While a little licking and chewing at their feet can be grooming, excessive licking can cause all sorts of issues. Obviously, if it's causing problems, you want it to stop. The question is, how? I'll get to that, but there's some ground to cover first.

Why Dogs are Licking Their Paws

To solve a problem, you first need to know what is causing the problem. What causes a dog to lick their paws excessively?

Grooming

The first option is grooming, and it's probably the least likely cause on this list, just because it generally won't be excessive. Grooming is just how they clean their feet, getting bits of dirt off of their toes and working out sand from in between them.

Excessive grooming can happen, but it's generally caused by something else, like some of the other options we'll get to later.

Injuries

Probably the most common cause of excessive foot licking, by far, is injuries. If they stepped on excessively hot pavement and burned a paw pad, if they stepped on a thorny plant and got a sticker in their paw, if they cut their paw on something rough or sharp outside, if they got stung or bit by an insect, it doesn't really matter.

What matters is that their foot hurts or is irritated, and they don't have very many ways to deal with that. The best option their furry little minds can think of is to soothe it with licking, so lick they do.

The problem, of course, is that licking isn't actually going to solve any of those issues. Worse, it's just as likely to keep irritating them, and their dirty little mouths can even cause an infection.

Injuries can range from small irritations that will heal in a day or two to serious problems that need a vet trip. It depends on the scope of the injury and the likelihood of infection, so make sure to check their paws!

Dermatitis

Dermatitis is the fancy medical word for skin irritation and inflammation. If you ever get a rash from poison ivy or an allergy, that's dermatitis. Dogs can get dermatitis from bacterial issues, from allergic reactions, and even from food sensitivities.

They can also develop it because of chemicals on the ground they walk on – it can be especially common in winter due to road treatments and other chemicals, or when lawn treatments or pesticides are used – and can even be caused by plants they walk on.

Fortunately, while this can be annoying to diagnose, it's relatively easy to treat. The trick is figuring out what is causing it specifically and avoiding letting your fur baby walk on whatever it is.

Parasites

Another semi-common cause is parasites. In particular, fleas and mange mites can cause your fur baby to be very itchy, especially around the paws.

Obviously, parasites are a known and solvable issue, so if they're what's causing excessive licking, it's a quick treatment away from relief.

Generalized Pain

One of the more difficult to address causes of excessive licking is very similar to the first: pain, and an attempt to soothe that pain. The trouble is, what happens if the pain is internal? Something like a fractured or broken toe would be obvious and solvable, but something like arthritis or a slowly growing tumor might not be obvious without testing.

This cause generally requires diagnosis and treatment from a vet, so if you've ruled out all of the easier causes, you will have to bring them in.

Behavioral Issues

This is one of the major elements I focused on in the previous post I linked up at the start. Behavioral issues, ranging from compulsive behaviors to boredom or anxiety, can cause your pup to lick at themselves just out of a need for stimulation.

Sometimes, this might be treatable with medications, while other times, it might mean you need to give them something to redirect their behavior or keep them entertained. It depends on what kind of behavioral issue is cropping up, really.

Other Health Problems

Sometimes, if your pooch has another health issue, they might be sore or stressed or irritated in ways they don't know how to express, so they lick to try to soothe themselves. Things like yeast infections, bacterial infections, and other illnesses can all cause this behavior.

Generally speaking, you'll notice other behavioral issues as well if this is the case, like lethargy, a lack of appetite, odd-colored stool, and so on. As you might expect, it's time to talk to a vet if your doggo is sick.

How to Get Your Dog to Stop Excessively Licking Their Paws

Now that you have some idea of why your pup is licking at their paws constantly, how do you solve the problem?

Step 1: Diagnose the Cause

The first thing you need to do is figure out which of the causes above is the one that's occurring.

Generally speaking, the first step is to look at their paws and see if there are signs of injury or irritation. If it's a surface-level injury or signs of topical irritation, it's easier to solve than if it's arthritis, a behavioral issue, or something more internal.

If you can't figure out what the cause is, it might be time to talk to your vet. As long as they aren't licking themselves raw and bloody, it probably isn't emergency vet material, but a regular vet visit isn't a bad idea.

Step 2: Treat the Cause

Once you have identified the cause, treat it if you can.

• If it's an injury and it's minor, see if it needs antiseptic or just cleaning and bandaging.

• If it's an injury and more major, have the vet handle it as necessary.

• If it's an infection, medication may be provided to deal with it.

• If it's inflammation or irritation, soothing creams and potentially steroids can be used.

• If it's pain or behavioral-related, talk to your vet about what may be necessary.

• If it's parasites, antiparasitic medications are easily accessible.

• If it's boredom, play with them more or give them an outlet when you're not available.

All but the most serious causes can be handled either at home, with over-the-counter treatments, or with a phone or video call with a vet to diagnose and prescribe something. The most serious issues need a vet examination and potentially other tests, like blood tests, to figure it out.

In rare cases, other kinds of treatments may be necessary. For example, if they end up having a cyst or small tumor, it may need surgery to remove.

Sometimes, irritated skin won't heal on its own, and cryotherapy may be necessary to remove it and start from a fresh wound for healing. And, of course, sometimes all you need is an anti-itch cream.

Step 3: Prevent the Licking

While you're waiting for a treatment to work, you'll want to do what you can to prevent your pup from continuing to lick at their paws and making the problem worse.

For temporary, short-term, day or two healing, an e-collar can be perfectly effective. If all you need to do is stop them from licking long enough for some irritation to heal, that's a fine option.

You might also consider something like dog booties or other foot coverings. You want something they can't easily pull off, and that won't hinder their ability to move around.

And, of course, you want something that isn't going to irritate their feet. Fortunately, there are a lot of potential products out there you can use.

In more extreme circumstances, you might need some kind of treatment that makes their feet taste bad to them, so they stop because it's gross. Bitter apple or citrus juices can do the trick, though something too strong might make their life unpleasant even when they aren't licking.

Be careful not to use these kinds of treatments on open wounds or irritated skin, as it can be painful for them.

Step 4: Remove External Factors

External causes of excessive licking generally come down to things like a food allergy, an irritation due to a chemical you're using somewhere inside or outside the home, or just boredom or anxiety.

You can try to remove these as factors.

• Change their food if a food irritation may be causing the problem.

• Remove plants from places they walk – or take them to other places to walk – to avoid irritation.

• Give them more things to do to alleviate their boredom or separation anxiety.

You won't always be able to fully control the environment and keep them from stepping in something that irritates their feet, but as long as you have ways to deal with it before they lick themselves raw, you're ahead of the curve.

Step 5: Paw Cleaning and Paw Balm

Two things worth mentioning as additional options are paw balms and paw cleaning.

Paw cleaning is a simple, but sometimes annoying, habit you'll need to get into. Basically, just keep a bit of water and a towel near the door.

Whenever they go outside, whether you're just letting them run around the yard, or you're taking them for a walk, or they've been out with you shopping or to the vet, make the entryway a checkpoint.

All you need to do is give their paws a quick rinse and wipe down. This helps remove anything, like chemical residues and dirt, that could irritate their paws.

Even if they aren't irritated right away, that irritation can develop later in the day as the residue lingers, and then comes the licking. Dealing with it right away is a great option.

The downside is that it's just One More Thing You Have To Do when you get home with your pup, and it's a hard habit to build and keep. Once you get it going, though, it's not too bad.

The second is a paw balm. There are a variety of kinds of paw balms – we sell three – but they all serve more or less the same purpose.

They help keep your dog's paws supple, soft, and healthy. They're often hydrating and moisturizing to prevent dry and cracked skin.

They can provide a small barrier against chemicals and residues, though hot pavement will still burn. They can even help speed up healing when your pup ends up with an irritation or inflammation.

Once the problem has been solved and the causes have been addressed, you should be good to go. It's fairly rare for excessive licking to be any sort of emergency, and if it is, you'll definitely notice other signs, whether it's bleeding, serious behavior changes, or something worse.

Have you ever experienced a dog that wouldn't stop licking their paws, seemingly no matter what you did? If so, what did the cause turn out to be, and how did you solve it? I've seen all sorts of things, but I'm curious what else may be out there.

Choosing Safer, Healthier Dog Products Starts With Knowing Exactly What's in Them

If you’ve ever lost a dog to illness—or spent nights worrying over what might be hiding in that overseas-made treat—you’re not alone.

Many of us trusted the packaging, only to learn too late that some overseas-made pet products contain cancer-causing chemicals, toxic dyes, and mystery ingredients we can’t even pronounce.

At toe beans, we believe pet parents like us deserve better, much better.

Why "Made in the USA" Isn’t Just a Label at toe beans

Many dog supply brands out there are quick to make the “made in the USA” claim, while failing to disclose that the raw materials in their products actually come from the same mass-production, low-cost labor countries overseas you're trying to avoid.

Oftentimes, such brands will claim "made in the USA with globally sourced ingredients/raw materials" as the country of origin designation for raw materials they don't really want you to know the true origin.

We believe every pet parent has the right to know exactly what went into the products they buy and what country they were produced in. Knowing such information can make the difference between long and short-living dogs as well as the quality of life they live.

That's why, we take a totally different and radical approach. With a few exceptions, all pet supplies on the toe beans catalog are crafted either in our own facility in the USA or by carefully vetted small-batch American artisans we know and trust.

It’s in our DNA to keep the strictest controls and oversight in our supply chains to source only the cleanest raw materials the world has to offer—organic, sustainable, toxin-free, and third-party certified.

Our products are manufactured using raw materials backed by trusted certifications including USDA Organic, USDA Bio-based, FSC^®, GOTS^®, and Oeko-Tex^® to ensure the highest safety standards from end to end. Learn more about toe beans raw materials certifications here.

So whether your pup is stretched out on our orthopedic dog beds, enjoying a handful of our Momma Knows Best Organics^® USDA Certified Organic Dog Treats, or burning off energy with one of our eco-friendly dog toys, you can feel confident you’re giving them the healthiest care possible.

You Shouldn’t Have to Guess What’s in Your Dog’s Products

That’s why we are obsessed with transparency and making dog supplies any pet parent can trust — clean, honest, and radically transparent.

Every product in our catalog comes with a datasheet that we fondly call the product’s anatomy. In it, you can learn what exactly went into your products and where all raw materials come from – from the threads to the main components.

Sometimes we even disclose our raw material suppliers, such as in the case of our leather dog collars, where we clearly tell our customers where exactly our leather comes from.

Lack of transparency is, in fact, the main tool many dog supply resellers out there use to get away with baseless claims such as organic. Here is what we think when it comes down to buying products claiming organic status:

“If it claims organic but it's not third-party certified, don’t let it fool you, it's not bona fide.”

Just some food for thought. Discover what safe, non-toxic, and organic really looks and feels like. Browse our collection of USA-made Organic Dog Products and give your pup the cleanest clean the world has to offer — no compromises.

After all, if we don't, they're either going to seek it out themselves (like a dog drinking from the toilet), or they're going to end up dehydrated, or both.

The trouble is, even when we replace water in their bowls, sometimes our furry friends are surprisingly picky. A lot of cats, for example, simply don't like standing water. They'd much rather drink from a faucet than from a still bowl of water, no matter how fresh it is.

There's a solution to this: automatic pet water fountains. These can be a great idea, but are there any drawbacks? What should you keep in mind, and why should you consider investing in a fountain for your fur babies?

What Are Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

The usual way of keeping your pet hydrated is a bowl that you fill with fresh water, and empty and refill every so often so the water is fresh and cool.

The general advice is to change your pet's water at least once a day, and more often if they drink too much of it, spill it, or if it gets dirty, such as if some stray food is dropped into it, or if dust and pet hair settles in it.

Automatic fountains are essentially water bowls that come with additional features to circulate the water. Some of them are little more than a pump and a cone in the center of the bowl, so water in the bottom is circulated to the top and spills down the side, continually filtering and circulating the water.

Others have small fountain-like streams. Some have added features, like the ability to plumb them into a water line directly so they always have fresh water or a mechanism to cool the water they circulate. There are as many different designs as there are brands selling them.

The goal of an automatic fountain is usually to keep water circulating, usually with a filter to keep particulates, dust, hair, and other debris out of it as much as possible. This makes it a much more pleasant experience for your beloved cat or dog to have a slurp when they're thirsty.

Believe it or not, some pets will avoid water even if it's available and will even potentially dehydrate themselves if that water is not to their liking.

Different individuals have different inclinations, as well. I've seen formerly feral cats happily drink from a muddy puddle, while a picky pup might turn their nose up at water they didn't see poured for them, even if you poured it just moments ago.

Do Cats Like Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

When you think about an automatic pet water fountain, you're probably thinking about cats.

Cats are traditionally the picky bunch, who might turn their nose up at a food if they've had it too often and who might have a strong and vocally expressed preference for a thin drip from the bathroom faucet rather than their water bowl.

Automatic water fountains are so often associated with cats that if you simply Google "automatic pet water fountain," the vast majority of the results are for cats, with a few token results for "cats and dogs" thrown in and very few specifically about dogs.

Of course, cats are picky about everything, so they may or may not like the type of automatic water fountain you get. If they turn their nose up at one, consider trying a different style before writing it off entirely.

Do Dogs Like Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

Most of the time, when you think of a dog having a drink, it's a bowl of water hastily splashed down at a dog park, or a park fountain with a doggy bowl at the bottom, or even a public-use bowl outside a local business (which you might consider passing by, as they can be a vector for disease).

If your canine companion will happily schlop schlop schlop out of any old bowl they find, do you need a fancy, pricey automatic fountain?

The truth is, there are some pretty good reasons to get an automatic fountain for a dog as well. Dogs can be just as picky as cats, sometimes.

They may also simply run out of water faster, and automatic fountains tend to have a larger capacity than a dog bowl, especially the ones that can be plumbed into your water lines. So, keep in mind that the benefits of a pet water fountain aren't just for cats; dogs can love them, too!

What Are the Benefits of Using Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

There are a lot of benefits to having an automatic water fountain for your pets, so let's go through them.

#1: They help guarantee your pet has access to fresh, clean water at all times.

Automatic water fountains typically have a larger capacity than a standard water bowl, both because they're physically larger and because they have internal workings like the pump and hoses that contain even more water.

They're often designed to not run dry in all but the most arid climates, as long as you're around to top them off once a day or so.

If you've ever come home from a long shift at work and had to immediately refill your pet's water bowl because it ran dry while you were out, you know how valuable it could be to have a larger capacity water source available for them.

Some people even resort to leaving a sink running, though, of course, that also racks up your water bills, something none of us want.

#2: They help keep the water your pets are drinking clean.

One of the biggest benefits to an automatic water fountain is not just circulating the water, but filtering it.

Some of them just use simple mesh filters to keep out pet hair and stray kibble, but others have more detailed filters, even up to activated charcoal similar to what you would have in your own Brita or Pur filters.

The longer water stays stagnant, the grosser it can get. Everything from pet dander and dirt from paws to microorganisms and parasites can start to make a home in a pet's water bowl.

While you're unlikely to have serious issues if you're changing the water every day, it's still nicer for you and your pets to have filtered water going for them, right?

Some of our pets are also much more sensitive to the quality of their water than others. You might think the water is fine, but if there's enough dirt, or oil, or other contaminants in the water that your pet can smell it, they might not want to drink – and will end up dehydrated because of it.

#3: They can be more enticing to your pets.

One of the natural instincts that both cats and dogs possess is an instinct to pursue fresh water. Most animals have an inherent awareness that stagnant water means water that might be dirty, full of germs or parasites, or that will otherwise make them sick when they drink it.

Some, especially the stray and feral animals we rescue, learn this the hard way. Others just have a nudge in the back of their fuzzy little brains that says the sound of running water is more enticing than a stagnant pool.

The noise of running water is, in fact, often the point. The gentle burble of a water fountain can be very compelling and can help ensure that your cats or dogs (or both!) are going to drink more water throughout the day, ensuring they stay hydrated.

This can be especially valuable if you have a pet with kidney issues, where hydration is even more important.

#4: They can help keep the water a cooler temperature.

Think about beverages you enjoy. What is more satisfying: a hot cup of coffee or a room-temperature cup of coffee? Which would you rather drink on a hot day: water that has been sitting out in the sun and is a balmy 75 degrees or water that is a crisp, cool 40?

A pet water fountain is unlikely to be keeping water at refrigerator temperature, but the circulation helps use evaporative cooling, plus passive systems like a simple metal construction to disperse heat, and keep the water cooler.

Cooler water, even by just a few degrees, is more refreshing than water that is at room temperature. This, too, helps entice your pets to drink and stay hydrated.

Are There Drawbacks to Using Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

If all of that sounds great, should you rush out to buy an automatic water fountain for your cats, dogs, and anyone else in the household? Maybe, but keep in mind that there are some drawbacks to using these automated fountains.

#1: They can be fairly expensive.

A simple cat or dog bowl might not cost more than $10 at your local pet supply store. Meanwhile, automatic fountains can range anywhere from $25 for a cheap, imported, maybe-not-so-high-quality device, all the way up to $90, $100, or even more for high-quality fountains. Some of the most advanced, easily-maintainable, app-controlled fountains can be well over $100.

Add to this the fact that these are moving devices, with electronics and pumps and hoses and multiple points of failure, and you might end up buying a new one every few years, as opposed to a bowl, which you probably won't need to replace for the lifetime of your pet. Then again, as pet parents, we know our little fuzz balls can be expensive, so it's par for the course.

#2: They need regular cleaning.

There's no way to run a water fountain without it needing cleaning sooner or later. The particulate filters need cleaning when dirt and hair end up in the water and get caught in them.

Charcoal and other filters need replacing on a schedule, when they get gummed up enough that they inhibit the flow of water. Even hoses might need replacing if enough time passes that they get clogged up or turn brittle and risk breaking and making a mess.

This goes doubly depending on the kind of water you're using for your pet's fountain. Most tap water, for example, has a fairly high mineral content, and those minerals build up and can clog up the fountain or stain it over time. The longer you go without cleaning off mineralization, the harder it is to do so.

Note: it may be tempting to use distilled water to avoid this issue. Unfortunately, while we tend to think of water as "empty," it's usually not.

Sources of bottled water, spring water, or even mineral water contain just that: minerals, some of which your pets need to stay healthy. Long-term distilled water consumption runs the risk of, in particular, magnesium deficiency.

There's also a small but non-zero risk of a poorly made or damaged water fountain shorting out and zapping your pet. Generally speaking, a short like that will trip a breaker (or a fuse in the device) before it becomes a hazard, but the cheapest of the cheap devices might not. That's why I always recommend looking for quality, not just the cheapest option on the shelves.

#3: They can be noisy, which might be irritating to you.

This is a more minor concern, but depending on the kind of fountain you get, it might have a fairly noisy pump.

The ideal of a fountain is that the noise you hear is the trickling sound of water, not the grinding of an electric motor, but the cheaper the fountain, the less likely it is to be quiet about its job.

Some people can easily tune out this noise, while others are deeply annoyed by it. Then again, some people – especially if you've ever lived through a burst pipe or other water issue – might find the sound of running water to be somewhat triggering. It's a balancing act.

A particularly noisy pet water fountain also runs the risk of being annoying to your pet, which is a bigger issue. If the noise of a pump drives them away, it's not a good investment.

Should You Get an Automatic Pet Water Fountain?

Truthfully? The answer is probably yes. The benefits are high enough, and the drawbacks are manageable enough that the balance is worth it.

Just make sure to use the right kind of water, keep the device well-maintained, and don't get one that is overly cheap or unnecessarily complex. I don't know why anyone would need an automatic fountain controlled by an app, do you?

Once your pets enjoy some fresh burbling water, they won't want to go back, and neither will you.

Do you have any questions about anything I discussed in this article? If so, I'm always more than happy to help however I can, so leave your questions in the comments section down below!

Setting a New Standard in Cat Supplies - Non-Toxic, Sustainable, and Made with Love in The USA

You shouldn’t have to choose between safety, high quality, and peace of mind when it comes to your cat’s care. At toe beans, we make sure you don’t have to.

We take a lot of pride in being more than just another cat supplies brand—we’re a promise to pet parents who refuse to compromise. By designing and handcrafting over 98% of our products in-house or in partnership with skilled small-batch U.S. manufacturers, we guarantee unmatched quality, sustainability, and full supply chain transparency.

When you choose toe beans for your cat supplies, you’re making a powerful statement: your cat’s health, happiness, and longevity come first. But that’s not all—you’re also choosing ethical American craftsmanship, raw material safety, and a family of brands that prioritize integrity over manufacturing shortcuts.

Every product is proudly made in the USA with certified, non-toxic materials, free from harmful substances and human exploitation—because your cat deserves nothing less than the best. Learn more about our product’s raw material certifications here.

Our cat enrichment supplies are crafted in the USA from the cleanest certified raw materials and ingredients available. Our stylish cat furniture is made with FSC^® certified woods that not only come from sustainable forests but are also free from toxic glues and VOC finishes. Our Momma Knows Best^® USDA certified organic catnip delivers the purest and cleanest pesticide-free joy.

By the way, did you know that if your catnip is not USDA certified organic, odds are it may not even be organic at all? Sadly, the marketplace is infested with unscrupulous sellers who abuse the word organic on their products.

The good news is, the USDA is cracking down on this marketplace abuse, so help is on the way! In the meantime, and as a rule of thumb, always look for USDA certified organic catnip instead. Learn more about how to safely buy non-toxic catnip here.

At toe beans we don’t just sell cat supplies—we make them with intention, transparency, and care. Every toe beans item comes with a detailed product anatomy datasheet so you always know what you’re bringing into your home.

Ready to uplift your cat’s quality of life? Upgrade your cat supplies now.

The things we eat as people aren't always the things our canine companions can eat. Just like how there are plenty of foods that are toxic to cats, there are human foods our dogs shouldn't eat either. What should you keep off the menu to avoid giving your pooch a hard time?

Can Dogs Eat Fruit?

First, a simple question: can dogs eat fruit at all? Fortunately, the answer is yes. While dogs aren't obligate carnivores like cats, they do have some dietary restrictions, largely related to certain chemicals that can give them a bad time.

Dogs can enjoy fruits as treats. Fruits like apples, blueberries, pears, strawberries, watermelon, mango, and others are all good options. My guide (linked right there) can give you some great ideas on which fruits to use, and how to use them.

What Makes a Fruit Bad for Your Dog?

Some fruits are going to be bad for your dog, but why are they bad? Are they full of chemicals that are fine for humans but toxic to dogs? Are they going to trigger an allergic reaction?

Generally, there are three main reasons that can disqualify a fruit from being part of your dog's diet.

The first reason is sugar. A lot of fruits are considered fairly healthy, but they're full of natural sugars. Natural fructose is better for you (and your dog) than artificial sugars, and it's way better than chemical sweeteners like xylitol, which can be toxic to your dog. But, it's still a lot of sugar, which can cause problems with obesity and diabetes, especially in older dogs.

The second reason is something that could choke your dog. Fruits that have large seeds or pits can be obstructions and, depending on the size of your dog, can block their airway or their bowels. Both of these can be very dangerous and painful to your pup.

On that note, it's a good idea for any canine caregiver to know how to help a choking dog because time is of the essence. Check out this guide to the canine Heimlich Maneuver to learn more.

Some of these fruits are fine if you prepare them right, while others might have other reasons to avoid them as well. I'll get to that in the actual list.

The third reason is toxicity. Some fruits do, in fact, have toxic compounds in them. At best, these can cause bowel upset or vomiting. At worst, they can become a life-threatening medical issue. It's better to avoid them entirely.

Now, let's go through the list.

Fruits a Dog Shouldn't Have Because of Toxic Ingredients

First, let's talk about the fruits that your dog absolutely shouldn't have. Any fruit with toxic compounds in it should be avoided entirely.

Avocados

Avocados are often thought of as vegetables, but they're actually fruits. They also fit both the toxicity and the obstruction points because the pit of the avocado is tough and can be a choking hazard.

The most important part, though, is that avocado skins, pits, and leaves all contain a compound called persin. While persin generally won't kill a dog unless it's very small and they eat a lot of it, it's going to cause gastrointestinal distress, including vomiting and diarrhea. That, combined with the high-fat flesh of the avocado, makes for a bad time for everyone.

Persin can also cause pancreatitis if consumed in sufficient amounts or over a long term.

Note that you can still use products like dog fur conditioners that include avocado oil; these ingredients have been refined to remove anything toxic. Since avocado oil is a great way to add luster and shine to your dog's coat, many people still use the fruit, even if it's not for eating.

Cherries

Cherries are a fruit that really hits all three of the reasons why a dog shouldn't have them.

They're pretty sweet and sugary, especially sweet cherries (tart cherries are a little less so, though they do still have a lot of sugar in them.)

They have pits. Those pits aren't going to bother a larger breed, but small dogs might choke on them.

Most importantly, though, they contain cyanide in the pits.

If you carefully pit cherries and give them to your dog in moderation, it's probably fine that they have one or two here or there. If you have a cherry tree, though, make sure your dog can't go to town on fallen fruit. The same goes if you eat cherries; make sure your pup can't fish the pits out of the trash.

It's also a good idea to learn the signs of cyanide poisoning. Dilated pupils, difficulty breathing, and red gums can all be signs.

Grapes

One of the worst fruits for dogs, grapes of all sorts are bad for our canine friends. Grapes (and raisins) are so toxic to dogs that they can cause sudden kidney failure in surprisingly small quantities. Just keep them away from your dog at all costs.

This is a good place to discuss the symptoms of poisoning in dogs. If you're worried that your dog might be poisoned or ate something they shouldn't that could hurt them, look for symptoms like:

• Bowel issues, including constipation and diarrhea.

• Lethargy and delayed responses.

• Standing with their back hunched.

• Twitching or seizures.

• Vomiting, drooling, or foaming at the mouth.

These symptoms indicate an emergency, and you should rush your pup to the emergency vet ASAP to get treatment before their organs shut down. Your vet will administer treatment like activated charcoal, a medication to induce vomiting, and scans or even surgery to address what's wrong. Obviously, it's better to keep the grapes (and other toxic fruits) out of reach.

Green Tomatoes

Tomatoes are part of the same overall plant family as nightshade, so it's not really a surprise that it can be toxic to some animals.

Fully ripe tomatoes are fine for dogs, but under-ripe or green tomatoes, as well as the green parts of the plant, all contain a chemical called solanine. That chemical is only mildly toxic, so your dog would probably have to eat a whole tomato plant or more to get really sick over it, but it's still better to avoid it, wouldn't you say?

Plums

Plums are another fruit where the pit contains cyanide and can be a choking hazard. Basically, any stone fruit is going to have these issues since they're all similar.

The flesh is fine, but the pits are very dangerous, so you have to be careful with how you dispose of them.

Raspberries

Raspberries are right on the fence. They're a healthy fruit and they're undeniably delicious, but they do contain a very small amount of xylitol.

One or two isn't going to be enough to hurt a dog unless they're very, very small or are very sensitive, but a whole package of raspberries – or a dog left to their own devices next to berry bushes – can cause problems quite quickly.

Fruits a Dog Shouldn't Have Because of Obstructive Elements

The second group is fruits that should either be avoided or be prepared properly if you want to give them to your dog. That's because they contain something, like a pit, a core, or seeds, that can block airways or obstruct bowels if your dog swallows them. Avocados, already listed above, fall into this group because of the pit as well.

Peaches

Peaches are a good example of a fruit that can be fine in moderation for dogs, but can also be very high in sugar, and the pit is dangerous.

Not only is the pit capable of blocking an airway, but it also contains a chemical called amygdalin, which, when digested, creates cyanide. So, why didn't I list it in the toxic section? The edible part of the fruit is fine.

Oranges

Oranges aren't bad for your dog, but vets generally recommend leaving off the skin and removing the seeds when possible. By the time you're done doing that, it's practically not worth it for a treat anymore, right?

That said, some dogs don't like citrus at all because the citrus oils are very strongly scented, and your pup's sensitive nose might be irritated at having them close. If you ever peel an orange and notice your pup avoids you, that's probably why.

Other citrus all fall into this category as well. Lemons, limes, grapefruits, pomelos, mandarins, citrons, tangerines… the list goes on. Relatedly, did you know that all citrus we enjoy today are cross-breeds and hybrids between three original citrus plants? Mandarins, Pomelos, and Citrons are the three originals; everything else is some manner of derived hybrid between them.

Persimmons

Persimmons are a less common fruit, but the seeds they contain can be obstructive to your dog's bowels. They aren't super toxic, which is why they aren't listed in the toxic list, though they do contain compounds that can cause digestive upset.

Under-ripe persimmons are also very astringent and can also cause digestive upset. The flesh of the ripe fruit is fine in moderation, though.

Fruits a Dog Shouldn't Have Because of Excessive Sugar

Finally, let's talk about some fruits you should consider avoiding. These aren't necessarily dangerous for your dog, but they are high in sugar. That means if they have diabetes, or you're worried about obesity or them developing diabetes down the line, it's better to avoid them. They can be given in moderation, though; a single bite here and there, as a high-value treat, can be just fine.

Bananas

Bananas are emblematic of this entire category. They're very sweet and have a ton of sugar in them when they're ripe, but they also have a lot of healthy minerals and vitamins that your dog will enjoy.

A slice of banana tossed to your pup with you eating one yourself is fine, but they shouldn't be part of their primary diet.

Canned Fruits

I'm not specifying one particular fruit here. Many canned fruits are canned with added sugar or even syrup, and that's a huge hit of sugar your dog doesn't need. Obviously, if the canned fruit is one with another issue, you have twice the reason to avoid it.

Note that even fruits canned in water or juice still tend to have added sugar to them. Syrup is worse, but juice isn't always better.

Dangerous Fruits for Dogs FAQ

As usual, let's wrap things up with a few common questions.

What should I do if my dog ate a bad fruit?

This depends on the fruit. Grapes? Take them to the vet ASAP. Other fruits? Keep an eye on them. If they exhibit the symptoms of poisoning, take them to the vet. Otherwise, just keep an eye out for obstructions and be prepared for a messy bathroom break.

Fruits that are high in sugar are only bad for weight and diabetes reasons, so if your dog is otherwise healthy, a bit of over-indulgence won't hurt them. Just don't make it a regular thing.

How can I get rid of pits and seeds?

Many people recommend a dog-proof trash can for things you really don't want your dog to get into. I've known some very clever dogs that find their way into these, though, so make sure whatever you get can resist the cleverest pupper around.

Alternatively, make sure to store the waste out of their reach until you can get rid of it.

What is the worst fruit for dogs?

Undoubtedly, grapes. It's actually kind of crazy that we don't even know which compounds in grapes are the toxic ones, but we know that all kinds of grapes, even in small amounts, can lead to very sudden kidney failure and even death.

If your dog even eats just one grape, you should be extremely vigilant for signs of poisoning and call your vet ASAP.

As always, if you have any non-medically-related questions, I'm always more than happy to help however I can! Just leave me a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

Healthier Products, Happier Dogs

Your dog’s health and happiness are priceless, and at Toe Beans, we’re here to help you nurture both. The raw materials in our products are certified for their non-toxicity, safety, and environmental friendliness to keep your furry companion and other family members safe, healthy, and away from cancer-causing substances. Learn more about our raw materials certifications.

Power up your dog’s rewards with our USDA organic dog treats, made in the USA in a USDA-inspected facility with the cleanest USA-sourced USDA organic ingredients. Keep your dog smelling fresh for longer between baths with our USDA organic dry dog shampoo. Don’t forget that a healthy and shiny coat is best maintained with natural animal fibers rather than synthetic ones. Our gentle dog brushes are exclusively hand-made for toe beans in Germany, using a brush-making tradition of 400 years!

Playtime is better than ever with our USDA Biobased dog rope toys, offering safe and truly eco-friendly options for endless fun. And for stylish walks, check out our always-in-fashion leather dog collars. Made in the USA with full-grain Spanish veg-tanned leather.

Do You Ever Worry About Where and Who Made Your Dog Supplies?

The sad truth is, unless you buy your dog supplies directly from a US-based company that manufactures their products in the USA and that also has strict controls and oversight over their supply chains, odds are your dog supplies have been made overseas with substandard raw materials that could potentially represent a long-term health hazard for your pup.

At toe beans we take pride in being more than just another dog supplies brand. By designing and manufacturing nearly all our products (98%+) in-house and/or in close collaboration with small-batch US artisans, we're able to ensure the highest standards of quality, sustainability, and supply chain controls and oversight.

When you choose toe beans dog and cat supplies, you're not only putting your fur baby's health, happiness, and longevity first, you’re also choosing supply chain transparency, raw material safety, and ethical American manufacturing. You can have the confidence that your dog supplies were made in the USA with certified raw materials that are free from human exploitation and hazardous substances.

Join the movement of ethical, health, and environmentally conscious dog parents. Shop our dog supplies collection now.

Cats are one of the species that experience this cycle, along with dogs, horses, cattle, goats, and more. The question is, as a cat parent, what should you know about your cat going into heat, and what should you keep an eye on? Let's talk about it.

An Overview of the Cat Estrus Cycle

First, let's talk about the estrus cycle in cats. It can broadly be broken into four segments, which cycle back into the first when the fourth is finished.

The first stage is proestrus, which is when estrogen levels start to rise. It's entirely invisible to humans, but male cats can sometimes detect this rise. They might start to show a bit more interest in your female cat, but she won't be interested yet. This phase only lasts a couple of days.

The second stage is estrus, what we call being in heat. This can last anywhere from three days at the shortest to 21 days at the longest, though it usually only lasts for about a week. This is when your cat is in heat and will display behaviors relating to the bodily process. I'll talk more about those in a bit.

During this stage, your cat will either mate with a male cat or she won't. If she does, it will either result in a pregnancy or it won't. So, there are three possible outcomes.

• Pregnancy. In cats, this lasts about two months, after which you'll have a fresh new litter of kittens to enjoy.

• Metestrus. If your cat mates but no pregnancy occurs, this metestrus phase is a sort of cooldown phase that lasts 30-40 days before her cycle starts back up.

• Interestrus. If your cat doesn't mate, the interestrus phase occurs, which lasts 1-3 weeks.

After this phase, she will enter Anestrus, where hormones and behaviors return to normal. Then, if she's still in her cycle, it will restart with proestrus.

Cats only enter this cycle during certain times of the year, which is governed in part by seasonality and the hours of daylight they are exposed to. This means it's subject in part to geography, as well as weather and human conditions. If you maintain stable hours with a sunlamp, you might find that it has an impact on your cat's cycle.

Generally speaking, cat cycles start in the spring from February to April and continue through about October before tapering off for the winter. And hey, that makes sense; a predator doesn't want to have additional nutritional requirements, as well as hindered mobility and potential health issues, during the time of year when food is more likely to be scarce and the environment is more likely to be bad.

What Age Do Cats Start Going Into Heat?

Most cats enter this phase of their reproductive cycle somewhere around 5-9 months of age. Sometimes, kittens can start even earlier, as young as 3-4 months old, while others might go as long as 18 months before their first experience.

What makes the difference? It's a combination of factors. It can depend on their breed, their weight, and even the time of year.

On the opposite end of the scale, you might wonder if cats enter a menopause and stop this cycle when they reach a certain age. In actuality, they don't; their estrus cycle can continue well into their senior years and will be with them for the majority of their life. However, age-related issues like tumors, dysregulated hormones, and other problems can disrupt the cycle.

What are the Behaviors of a Cat in Heat?

If your female cat is entering the phase of her estrus cycle where she's "in heat," it will generally be pretty obvious. The behaviors are pronounced. However, first-time cat parents might not recognize what they're seeing.

The first and most obvious behavior is making a lot of noise. Female cats in heat make noises and vocalizations that, to be honest, can sound very distressing, like she's in pain. It's really just a mating call; she's letting male cats around her know she's up for grabs. It can be quite a change of character for usually quiet cats, though it might not be obvious if your cat is usually a chatterbox.

The second behavior, and arguably the most annoying of them all, is spraying. This is usually a male cat behavior, but female cats in heat might spray urine to mark their territory and spread around the scent that male cats will be attracted to. Unfortunately for us humans, it smells awful, and we really don't want it in the house.

Another behavior is simply restlessness. Your cat knows something is going on, and she wants something, and when she isn't getting it, she'll wander and look for it. She might hang out and pace areas where other cats hang out or spend time at a door or window where she can smell cats outside. She's on the prowl!

Another behavior, and one that can be concerning to new pet parents, is a lack of appetite. When your cat is in heat, she has one thing on her mind, and it's not food or drink. Keep a close eye on her, and make sure she's eating and drinking at least once every 12 hours; if not, take her to the vet.

There's a pretty good chance that she's also going to be very affectionate and seeking your attention. She'll rub her face against you a lot, wrap her tail around you as she passes by, and seek out cuddles and a lap to sit on. She might not stay long because of the restlessness, but the affection helps calm her down a little.

A few of the more physical signs include:

• Swelling of the vulva and genital area.

• Excessive grooming, especially of the genital area.

• Hanging out by the door and trying to escape when she gets the chance.

• Lifting her rear in the air while she poses. When all else fails, the open invitation is the best she's got.

One or two of these signs might be a coincidence, but if they represent a change from your cat's normal behavior, or when multiple combine, you've got a cat in heat.

What Can You Do About a Cat in Heat?

If your fur baby is in heat, you have to decide what you want to do about it.

One thing is certain: a cat in heat is, more often than not, an annoyance. She'll be noisy, needy, and might spray, which is awful to deal with. Not to mention, if she tries to escape, it's a danger to her and to local wildlife.

What you can do mostly depends on the outcome you want. There are, basically, three options.

Option One: Find a Mate

This option is the best option for breeders, usually of purebred cats. I'm generally not hugely in favor of breeders – there are so many strays and forlorn cats living in shelters that need your help already – but the fact is, there's a niche for them, and they aren't going away.

If your goal is kittens, you'll need a mate for your queen for the next litter. How you handle that depends on all sorts of different factors, including genetic testing, purebred certification, and other factors.

Option Two: Manage the Behaviors

If you like your cat the way she is, but you wish she'd tone it down a little, you can try to distract her and keep her from the worst and most annoying behaviors.

Consider things like:

• Setting aside a calm, isolated, comfortable space for her that is cloistered away from loud noises, distractions, and other cats.

• Dim the lights, draw the curtains, and try to keep things calm. Imagine she has a migraine, and you're on the right track.

• Keep her litter box clean and accessible. She's less likely to spray if she can use the litter box comfortably.

• Make use of toys, treats, and catnip while spending extra time to care for your fur baby while she's struggling.

• Stay patient, especially if she's young enough that this is disruptive to her training. It's a biological imperative, and there's not much you can do to stop it.

• Know when to leave her alone. Even if she's being extra affectionate, if she nips or swipes at you, she's probably serious about it, so don't bug her.

Make sure to be vigilant. If she tries to sneak out and escape when you bring in the groceries, you're going to have a heck of a time catching her. You also want to watch out for things like vaginal discharge or signs of an infection, which can be dangerous or life-threatening.

Option Three: Have Her Spayed

The third (and best) option is generally to have her spayed.

Spayed female cats don't go into heat unless the surgery wasn't successful or there's another issue, which I'll discuss a bit below. It's the only way to prevent a cat from going into heat.

Preventing estrus isn't the only reason to spay a cat, either. Spaying is important for her overall health. Spaying before her first cycle can reduce her chances of breast cancer by over 90% and can reduce the risk of ovarian, uterine, and other reproductive cancers as well. It also prevents uterine infections like pyometra, which can be fatal.

There are also side benefits. Cats with diabetes or epilepsy need medications to be healthy, but changes in hormones can disrupt those medications. Spaying her brings stability to those hormones.

Cats in Heat FAQ

Now, let's wrap things up with a few questions you might have that I didn't cover above.

My cat is spayed; why is she going into heat?

If your cat was spayed, she shouldn't be going into heat. If she is, there's a possibility that your vet missed some tissue when they performed the operation and that leftover tissue is causing the cycle of hormones to surge. It's called Ovarian Remnant Syndrome and will need another surgery to correct it.

There are a few other reasons why she might be exhibiting heat-like behaviors, too. Adrenal tumors produce hormones that can cause the cycle. An infection called a pyometra can also occur and cause symptoms. In some cases, if your cat is exposed to products containing estrogen, like topical creams or other drugs, it can cause similar effects as well.

The good news is that all of these require the same reaction: taking your cat to the vet to see what's up and figure out what to do next.

Can male cats go into heat?

Yes and no. Male cats don't go into heat because the estrus cycle is specifically related to female reproductive organs.

However, male cats do have their own behaviors, which are actually a reaction to female cat estrus; they might do more urine marking, they might be more restless, and they might try to escape to find a mate if one isn't available, but they can sense one nearby. Neutered males don't exhibit these behaviors, just like spayed female cats don't go into heat.

Is being in heat painful?

As any human woman can attest, the menstrual cycle can be immensely uncomfortable or painful. Is the same true for cats? Fortunately, no. Some of her behaviors are similar to how she'll act if she's in pain, but I promise she isn't.

She also won't have a period the way we do. There should be no blood involved in the process, so if you notice any, she might have a UTI or other issue you should talk to your vet about.

So, there you have it: a guide to cats in heat. Do you have any questions I missed? If so, be sure to let me know in the comments!

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Perhaps the single most routine surgery in the veterinary field is that of the spay/neuter. Most people are aware that these surgeries are done and why, but not necessarily what they do, how, or what needs to be done after the surgery itself. I wanted to take a moment today to talk about it!

What is Involved in a Spay or Neuter Surgery?

Spaying and neutering are surgical procedures, which means they are invasive and require anesthesia, monitoring, and potentially IV fluids and other care.

The surgery is a lot less invasive for male dogs than for females due to the anatomy involved, but either way, it includes an incision in the flesh of the dog's underbelly, ligation of the blood vessels leading to the relevant reproductive organ, and the removal of that organ.

In male dogs, it's the testicles, while in female dogs, it's usually both the ovaries and the uterus, though in rare cases, it can be just the ovaries.

If you're interested in a closer look, this article covers neutering a male dog, and this one covers spaying a female dog. Fair warning: the neutering article includes pictures, so skip it if you're squeamish.

The key point to take away here is that both surgeries involve incisions of the skin and cutting away organs inside.

No matter how well-practiced the vet, these can always be potentially dangerous due to infection, failed ligations, or other problems.

Your job is to keep an eye on your beloved canine companion to make sure nothing goes wrong and that they heal normally.

What Are Common Symptoms After a Spay or Neuter Surgery?

Surgical recovery is a lengthy process, though your dog probably won't show it as much as you expect them to.

In the first 24 hours after the surgery, your pup will be recovering from being under anesthesia. They'll be groggy and nauseous and may have other symptoms, such as:

• Glassy-eyed looks

• Sleepiness

• Wobbly movement

• Excessive vocalization

• Shivering

• Irritability

All of these are normal. They're shaking off medication and dealing with both an unpleasant sensation, a bunch of disorientation, and a general feeling of not being entirely normal.

They don't know what's going on, and they don't have the language to understand if you explain, so they can only do what they feel they can do: whine about it, usually.

Because of their nausea, your dog is probably not going to want to eat very much. One of the main risks here is dehydration, so make sure to encourage your pup to drink. Offer food in small amounts, but be prepared if they can't keep it down.

After the first day or two, your pet will largely recover mentally, but they are still healing from the surgery. This is the most dangerous time for three main concerns.

The first is infection. While many procedures are in place to make sure your pet is as clean and sterile as possible during the surgery, there's always the risk of infection with any surgery, no matter how thorough the procedures. Keeping an eye out for the signs of infection is your most important job.

The second is reopening the incision. A small amount of bleeding on the first day is normal, but after that, it should remain closed, though it can be red and a little swollen.

If your pet does something that reopens the incision, you'll need to talk to your vet to get it closed back up. Fortunately, these aren't big incisions, so it's not a huge emergency if they reopen.

The third is internal bleeding. Part of the surgery is tying off the blood vessels that feed the organs being removed. There's always a risk, however small, of these not remaining properly tied off and causing internal bleeding. This is one of the biggest emergencies that will need immediate attention.

How Long Does Recovery After Spay or Neuter Surgery Take?

In general, dogs take around 10-14 days to fully recover from a spay or neuter surgery. The first day is the worst, and each day after will be better.

Some dogs take a little longer to recover, which can depend on their age, their size, and if there were any complications with the surgery itself or with their recovery process.

Many dogs will feel like they've recovered earlier, but they aren't great at judging the state of their healing internally, so your job is to keep them relatively calm and still so they don't hurt themselves in their excitement to get back to normal.

What Do You Need to Do to Care for Your Dog After a Spay or Neuter Surgery?

Caring for a dog after a spay surgery is fairly simple, but if it's your first time, it can be a little nerve-wracking. Just remember that millions of pet parents do it every year, and most of them don't have issues, so you'll probably be fine, too.

When you first bring your dog home, let them rest in a quiet, safe place. If you have other pets, kids, or anything stressful in your house, find a place your dog can stay away from them and let them recover there.

Check on your dog frequently for the first 24 hours to make sure they're fine. Complications can happen quite quickly, so you want to keep an eye on them or even stay with them while they rest and shake off the anesthesia.

Give them small amounts of food and water later in the evening. Their appetite won't return to normal for probably about two days, but you want to try to keep them hydrated and fed. Just be prepared for the risk of vomit if they can't keep it down.

Encourage frequent movement. Statistics show that if your dog spends most of the first day sleeping or resting, their recovery is probably going to take longer. You want them up and moving, even if it's just a walk across the room.

At the same time, discourage exercise and play. Jumping, running, and excessive playing risk reopening the incision or the ligations and can cause complications.

Keep the surgical site dry. No swimming, no bathing, no playing in the rain or the snow.

Keep checking the incision. A little redness and swelling are normal, but if it bleeds, reopens, leaks a strange fluid, looks bruised, or is otherwise unnatural, contact your vet.

What Symptoms Should You Watch for After a Spay or Neuter Surgery?

You can generally categorize issues post-surgery as normal, needing attention, or emergency. Let's go through each category.

Normal issues after a surgery.

Normal issues are things you may or may not see, but if you do, they aren't something to worry about. If they stick around or get worse, then they escalate into the next tier of severity, and you'll want to talk to your vet about them.

To be clear, you can call your vet about anything you aren't sure about. They're generally pretty happy to help, even if they are overworked – they love your dog almost as much as you do – and they won't be mad about a nervous call. Just don't necessarily rush your pup into the emergency vet for something that isn't a problem.

So what's on the list?

• A small amount of blood or bloody discharge from the incision site on the first day after the surgery. Small things like a minor red stain on their bed where they were lying are pretty normal. If it's bad, there will be more volume, or it won't go away even after days.

• A bit of redness or swelling, or even bruising around the surgical site. An incision is, after all, cutting through the skin. Think of it like when you get a cut yourself; it will be red and irritated because it's damage to the skin.

• Your dog whining and crying about their situation. Some dogs are way more dramatic than others in their discomfort, but most just won't know what's going on. They'll be disoriented, uncomfortable, and probably in a little pain, and they'll be vocal about it.

• Not doing their business on schedule. Potty training is important, so this can feel bad, but anesthesia basically halts the digestive process, and your dog probably won't go back to normal for at least a day.

If any of these happen for a day or two, don't worry, and just keep an eye on it. They should go away on their own.

Issues that need some attention.

Now, let's talk about the issues that will require attention but might not need an emergency trip.

These issues include:

• Significant swelling of the incision. This might be a sign of infection or could require medication to help manage.

• Colored discharge from the incision. This is generally a sign of some kind of infection and will require medication and maybe cleaning.

• Pale gums. This can be a sign of internal bleeding or an infection and is worth getting looked at.

• Long-term lack of appetite. If your dog refuses to eat or drink even after a day or two after the surgery, something might be wrong, and they'll need attention.

• Intermittent vomiting. Same deal here; it means something is wrong but not immediately life-threatening.

If your dog is experiencing any of these, you'll want to call your vet and talk to them about it. They might be able to do a quick video visit and give you a prescription or advice to try to care for the issue, or they might want you to bring your dog in to be looked at. Follow their advice.

Issues for the emergency vet.

Now, let's talk about the true emergencies. If you see any of these, you'll want to bring your pup to the nearest emergency clinic.

These issues might require another surgery to correct or could be a sign of something dangerous occurring:

• Consistent blood from the surgical site. This can indicate a failed ligation that will need to be redone.

• Consistent vomiting that doesn't go away. This can indicate a number of issues that need to be checked out.

• Difficulty breathing. This is another potentially serious complication that needs immediate attention.

• Inability to stand or not waking up. Terrifying!

These are your true emergencies, so get going ASAP if you see them.

Dog Spay Surgery FAQ

Now, let's wrap things up with a couple of other questions you might have.

Do you need to keep the incision clean?

Follow your vet's instructions.

Generally, you only need to wipe off discharge if it happens, but otherwise, it's better to leave it alone.

What kind of cone should you put on your dog?

Cones aren't generally recommended these days; instead, a more flexible e-collar is the way to go.

If your dog doesn't seem interested in licking or scratching at their incision, they don't need a collar or cone. If they can't seem to leave it alone, you need to protect the incision from their picking at it, so use the collar.

What if your dog doesn't tolerate a cone?

There are a few other options. One of the most common is a onesie, which can protect the site of the incision while being harder to work around and more comfortable for your pup.

You can also try something like boxer shorts – the fly is for the tail – though with both options, you still need to remove or alter them for potty time.

When all is said and done, you should be in a good position both to have a safe and healthy dog and to go through the whole process again with another dog in the future.

Remember, there are no stupid questions, and you shouldn't feel bad about being concerned. We all have to learn somewhere!

If you have any non-medically-related questions, I'd be more than happy to help out however I can! Just leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

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Some commercial cat foods are full of filler. Some include sub-par ingredients that might not be bad right now but can be bad in the long term, especially if contaminants build up in your cat's system. Sometimes, they just include allergens, and your cat has a sensitive stomach and can't handle them.

There are plenty of reasons to consider making DIY, homemade cat food. But there's also a lot to consider. Let's talk about it!

Should You Make DIY Cat Food?

The first question that might come to mind is whether or not you should even consider making homemade cat food.

In my opinion, yes! There are a few good reasons to do it.

You know everything that goes into your cat's food when you make it yourself.

This is possibly the biggest reason; you know everything that goes into a recipe you make. With commercial cat foods, you often see ingredients listed that you might not know what they are or you might not like. Things like:

• Poultry by-product meal

• Corn gluten meal

• Soybean meal

• Dried bifidobacterium animalis fermentation product

• Natural flavors

Since the FDA doesn't regulate pet foods as much as it regulates human foods – and we already have a lot of shortcuts and tricky information in our own food – it can be very difficult to read the ingredients on a pet food label and understand what's truly in the food.

To be clear, most of the time, the ingredients are fine for your cat. It might not be the best possible food, but it's not likely to actively hurt them. The trouble is, you can't necessarily tell that, and there seems to be a scandal every year or two about pet food hurting pets.

You can customize their food if they have allergies or sensitive stomachs.

This is a big one. Unlike human food, where allergens need to be disclosed, including if it was produced in a facility that also handles allergens, you don't get that kind of quality assurance with cat foods.

If your cat has an allergy to a given ingredient, it can be hard to tell if a commercial cat food has that ingredient in it. Even if it doesn't, if it's made in the same facility as a food that does, it can end up cross-contaminated, and there's no way you can tell until your fur baby starts showing signs of digestive distress.

When you DIY some homemade cat food, you know everything that goes into it and everything that doesn't.

You can change the recipe when your cat gets tired of it.

Raise your hand if your cat is a picky eater and turns their nose up at food on a regular basis, even food they've enjoyed in the past.

Everyone? Alright, hands down.

Most cats are at least somewhat picky eaters, and even if they aren't actively dismissive of the food you give them, there's a good chance they'll just want to change things up from time to time. When you buy normal cat food in bulk, that's pretty hard; what are you going to do with the extra 20 lbs. of kibble if they won't touch it anymore?

When you make their food, it's easy enough to mix up the main protein or a couple of key ingredients to get something new for them to enjoy. You also don't need to make huge batches and let some of it go bad, and if they decide mid-batch they don't care for it, you can freeze it for later.

You can usually make cat food cheaper than buying their food.

Another benefit to making your own cat food is that it ends up being cheaper at the end of the day. Depending on the kind of food you're buying for your cat, it can cost anywhere from $1.50 to $7 per day. When you make your own, the cost of the ingredients will work out to be less than $1.50 per day, almost no matter what you want to do.

Obviously, this can vary depending on how you source your ingredients. People with local butchers or with lower costs for certain ingredients locally can come out further ahead.

People who have trouble sourcing key ingredients might be more comparable to cheaper commercial cat foods. In those cases, the difference in quality is important enough to balance the scales.

It does take time to make your own cat food, but honestly, less than you might think.

You can also often do it on the side while you're making food for yourself, so you don't need to spend a dedicated chunk of time making your cat's food. Even then, it's still fine for most people.

If all of that hasn't convinced you to start making DIY cat food, I don't know what will.

What Does DIY Cat Food Need to Include?

Cats are obligate carnivores, but that doesn't mean you can just grind up some chicken breasts and call it good enough. They still need enough nutrition, including vitamins, minerals, fiber, and other ingredients, which means you need a good list of what to include.

You'll want to include:

• A primary protein. Most people start with chicken, but a variety of different primary proteins can work. Pork, eggs, beef, and even more exotic meats like duck, quail, and others are all fine.

• Supplements. Often, the meat you choose won't have all of the nutrients your cat needs. Cats evolved to catch and eat whole prey like birds and mice, including things like bones, organs, and blood. You'll need to replace those with added supplements like taurine, fish oil, and omega-3s.

• Fiber. You don't need a lot of fiber for homemade cat food, but you should have some. A good option is barley powder, which is relatively cheap and serves as a good filler when used in moderation.

Some people recommend grinding up the bones of poultry. Your cat can benefit from the calcium and other nutrients in the bones, but you need to make sure not to cook them so they don't turn sharp and brittle.

Should you cook the protein? That's actually up to you and your cat. Some cats prefer cooked meat, while others like it raw. As long as you cook it without spices, you're fine.

Overcooking the meat can destroy some of the nutrients in it and make it less pleasant for your furry friend to eat, so most people start with raw meat. That said, raw meat does have the potential for bacterial contamination, so keep an eye out for signs of infection after starting a homemade raw cat food diet.

What Should You Leave Out of DIY Cat Food?

One of the benefits of making cat food at home is that it's easy to make a fairly simple recipe. There are a lot of things you generally want to leave out of the food you make, though.

First of all, make sure you avoid any of the human food ingredients that are toxic or bad for cats. I have a whole post about it here, but to replicate the list:

• Alcohols

• Yeasts

• Chocolate

• Coffee and Tea

• Citrus Fruits

• Coconut

• Dairy Products

• Grapes

• Eggs

• Alliums like Onions and Garlic

• Nuts

• Xylitol

• Tomatoes

• Salt

You also want to avoid fillers in excess. A little bit of fiber filler and carbohydrates are fine, but too much will end up hurting your cat in the long term, and that's what you're trying to avoid in the first place.

What about oils? Oils are a good way to get some healthy fats, vitamins, and supplemental nutrients into cat food, but you need to use them in moderation and only use the right kinds of oils. Fish oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, and flaxseed oil are fine, but don't use too much.

Should You Change DIY Cat Food Recipes?

I already mentioned this a little bit above, but there's a pretty good chance that your cat, even if they initially love the DIY cat food recipe you make, is going to get tired of it over time.

I generally recommend only making 1-2 weeks' worth of food at a time so that if they start to get tired of it, you don't have a lot of wasted food they won't eat.

You can change the recipe from time to time, so long as you're as close to nutritionally complete with each recipe as you can be.

What's a Good Recipe for DIY Cat Food?

There are as many recipes for DIY cat food as there are people making them.

Rather than reproduce any here, here are a few links to recipes you can read up on and decide if you want to use them:

• Beef and Barley Cat Food from Cats Magazine

• 5 Vet-Approved Homemade Cat Foods from Cats.com

• Two Options for Homemade Cat Food from Know Better Pet Food

As you can see, they're all pretty simple and don't require a lot of time, equipment, or expensive ingredients. It's easy enough to change them up to suit your fur baby's needs, too.

DIY Cat Food FAQ

Now, let's cover a few points I didn't have space for in the main post, as well as some questions I've been asked about DIY cat foods.

Is DIY cat food cheaper?

Almost always, yes, but various factors can cause the numbers to not quite line up.

If you're going for gourmet, organic meats and high-tier supplements to make your DIY cat food, it's going to be comparatively more expensive than other kinds of homemade cat food recipes. It can be comparable in expense to the cheaper or even mid-range cat foods you would buy at the store.

On the other hand, if you're normally feeding your cat expensive organic food because they have nutritional sensitivities or other issues, making your own food will pretty much always be cheaper.

If cost is your primary concern, consider keeping track of the price of ingredients and doing the math for yourself. It will probably work out in favor of homemade cat food!

Is DIY cat food better for cats?

If you make it right, yes!

This is one of the biggest issues, though.

Many commercial cat foods are engineered to be nutritionally complete, but they may also have excessive amounts of some nutrients or too much filler.

They might also just not be high quality. A lot of these pet foods tend to use scraps and refuse from other meat processing, so the starting ingredients aren't great, and the added nutrients are of lower quality to avoid being too expensive.

While they keep your cat fed, they might not keep your cat healthy. It's why obesity, kidney issues, and other problems can be common in our furry friends.

When you make your cat food at home, you have full control over the ingredients and can make it as high quality as you want. As long as you make sure you're giving them all of the nutrients they need, you'll be good. I recommend running your recipe by your vet to make sure it has everything your fur baby needs.

Should DIY cat food be different for cats of different ages?

Yes!

Kittens, adult cats, and senior cats all need different nutrition to stay healthy. Kittens need more calories and a different balance of nutrients to stay healthy and grow big and strong. Meanwhile, senior cats are more likely to have health issues that need a dietary adjustment.

The post above is pretty much entirely focused on otherwise healthy (or slightly obese) adult cats. Make sure to talk to your vet about homemade food for kittens or for senior cats with different health needs to guarantee that you're giving them what they need.

As always, if you have any questions about this article, please feel free to let me know! I'd be more than happy to help however I can!

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Obviously, there are differences between breeds; a tiny breed isn't going to be able to pull a dog sled, while a huge breed will have trouble running an agility course, and some are better trackers or hunters than others.

Beyond that, though, we have to think about physical disabilities. Just like people, dogs can be born with congenital defects that hinder their abilities. Others might contract illnesses or suffer injuries when they're very young.

Blindness is not a common problem in young dogs, though it can still occur. Those puppies deserve just as much love and affection as any other, but many people may be unwilling or unable to provide them with the care they need. Training a blind puppy can present a lot of challenges, but with dedication, time, and love, they can be overcome.

If you're willing and able to care for a blind puppy and train them in all the things they'll need to know when they grow, I salute you. To help, I've put together this list of ten of the most useful tips I can find, backed by expert dog trainers and behavioralists.

Let's get right to it!

1: Understand Differences

One thing that can be worth thinking about is when your dog lost their sight.

Some dogs are born with either very limited or no vision. These dogs don't know anything different, and while those around them might act as though they can see, the blind puppy doesn't know that. Your puppy will adapt to not having sight with relative ease as long as you're there to help care for them.

For puppies who lose their sight early to injury or illness, don't lose heart. They will still be able to adapt, and probably quickly, too. They just won't adapt quite as fast, because they were learning how to navigate the world with sight, and they lost it and have to learn to compensate.

At the same time, these dogs have some advantages in having some basic idea of what the world is like and what scents might represent, even if they haven't really interacted with it much. They'll probably lose this over time, but it can help overcome some initial hurdles.

As for dogs that lose their vision later in life as mature adults or seniors, there is a whole other array of challenges to consider. Since you aren't as likely to need to train them, though, that's somewhat outside the scope of this post. Some of the tips can still help, though, so keep reading!

2: Be Gentle and Patient

The Browns from Alpha Paws Training recommend being patient and gentle when training a blind pup. Blind dogs may be slower, more hesitant, and less confident in their explorations of the world around them.

They will still be receptive to learning new things, but the usual dog training schedules might not apply. You'll probably need to take longer to train them in certain things and be kind and gentle if they're having issues or accidents.

This is one of the greatest challenges of training a special needs dog. It can feel like they're stuck in their training or they aren't making progress fast enough, and it can be disheartening. Many people have a crisis around this time and consider giving up their pups to someone who has more time and ability to train them.

In my view, as long as you aren't neglecting them or made a promise to do something you couldn't, there's no shame in giving up a special needs pup. They deserve love and care, and if you can't provide it, it's better to hand them over to someone who can instead of struggling in a way that hurts both you and the puppy in the long run.

3: Create a Household Scent Map

Jennifer Mauger, a contributor to Chewy, says one of the most important things you can do is build a household scent map.

A household scent map is a fairly simple thing to build; all you need to do is get something like a bottle of vanilla extract or a lavender essential oil. Rosemary, Cedarwood, and Frankincense are all also good options. These are all scents dogs like and are pleasant enough to people that they won't be unpleasant.

A scent map just means you take that scent and dab a little bit of it on various parts of your home where your dog should know something is there. Corners, doorways, the legs of furniture, even walls.

Since your dog will have a keen sense of smell even though they're blind, they can use this to build a mental map of where things are. This helps them avoid running into walls or furniture, so it's both safe and enjoyable for your pup.

You can even dab some scent on their toys so they know where to find them! You don't need to use different scents for everything (though you can use different scents for different categories of objects, like one for walls and one for toys); just one or two will serve the purpose.

4: Use Clicker Training

Susan Gary of Top Dog Pet Sitters highly recommends clicker training. A clicker is just a small, sharp noisemaker with a button that makes a click when you press it. It's an auditory signal that a blind dog can learn and hear; critically, it's unique enough that your dog won't mistake other noises for it, which is essential for reliable training.

The click alone doesn't mean anything. Your first task with clicker training is to associate the click with a positive outcome, usually a treat. Just click and offer a treat periodically throughout the day to associate the noise with the reward.

Once that's in place – and it won't take long – all you need to do is use the click to identify a specific behavior you want to reinforce. So, say you're teaching your blind puppy to sit; when you say sit, and they sit, the instant their butt touches the ground, click and reward. Eventually, you can drop the reward aspect; the click is enough to reinforce a behavior.

You can read more about clicker training in this guide from the American Kennel Club.

5: Teach a Stop Command

Another important element of training a blind dog is training them to stop on a dime. You can't afford a dog that will run wildly and ignore your commands; there are all kinds of things they can run into or encounter that can be dangerous.

Moreover, there's only so much you can do to dog-proof everything around you. In your house, sure, you can keep things out of head level or away from their common paths, as well as scent-mark things that can't be removed. But other things can change or can't be marked. The edge of a pool or a pond, the trailer hitch on a truck, road traffic, the list goes on.

In these cases, having a firm command that your dog always obeys and that gets them to stop no matter what is critical.

6: Teach Step Up

Another useful command to teach your blind pooch is "step up" or "step down." These are simple commands that serve to warn your pup that a step like a curb or other short stumbling block is just ahead. This can help prevent tripping up or down that step.

While a single misstep is unlikely to cause an injury, it can lead to them being more cautious and hesitant because they don't know when the ground is going to jump out at them (or drop out from under them.)

If you've ever been leaning back in a chair and felt that jolt of almost falling or missed a step when climbing the stairs, imagine how they feel with the same experience but no eyesight.

7: Consider Household Safety

Lara Shannon of Pooches at Play recommends taking some serious time to make your household as safe as possible for your dog. Get down on their level and look at anything that could be head level or below that could cause an issue.

Consider things like:

• Adding corner protectors to doorways and other corners so that even if your dog gets excited and runs into one, they don't hurt themselves.

• Baby gates at the top of staircases so that your dog can't trip and fall down them, potentially injuring themselves in the tumble.

• Adding rugs or other surfaces to slippery floors and other footing hazards.

• Removing fallen branches and other low hazards in your yard where they could run into them while playing or doing their business.

• Adding markers around trees and other outside objects that can't be reliably scent-mapped; a simple ring of a different surface a foot or so out from the trunk of a tree can help warn your pooch something is coming up.

How much you do and what you need to focus on will depend on where you live and what your dog is like. Consider things from their perspective and make them as safe as possible.

8: Don't Rescue Them

Gillian Young, from the Wonder Dog Institute, says one thing you need to do is avoid "rescuing" your pup from common obstacles. It's one thing to snatch them up from a dangerous situation; that's fine. What you want to avoid is "rescuing" them from things that are just a little hard for them.

For example, if your blind dog is having trouble climbing stairs, your goal is to train them to be more confident going up and down the stairs. If you just pick them up and bring them up the stairs in your arms, it can hinder their training and even disorient them.

Blind dogs rely on their other senses to get around, and a big part of that is building and maintaining a mental map of your home and the things in it. Picking them up and putting them down somewhere else means they have to spend time figuring out where they are, and that isn't always easy. Scent maps help, but it's still better not to do it to them in the first place.

Guiding and helping them remain independent is better in every respect.

9: Don't Do Too Much At Once

This is less of a specific tip and more of a story you can take a moral from. Mardi Richmond of Whole Dog Journal tells the story of Orbit, a blind dog who was well-trained and socialized by his parents. One of the biggest challenges he faced was sound, particularly ambient noise.

Blind dogs use scent to map the area around them, but they also use sound to build that awareness. They can hear quite well, too, and can get a lot of information from ambient noise.

The challenge is that we people often tune out a lot of that noise or take it for granted. Things like crowds, traffic, loud machinery, and other noises can be disregarded because we know what they are.

The trouble is, for a blind dog, that's all potentially relevant information. Suddenly being immersed in it can disorient and overwhelm them, especially if they aren't used to it. So, when you're introducing them to new circumstances, be mindful of the noise.

10: Work on Socialization with Well-Trained Dogs

Another tip from the Orbit story is to be slow and careful when socializing your blind dog with other dogs. Since your pup is blind, they won't be able to see the visual cues that other dogs give and expect to be received. Whether it's play bows, social hops, attempts to sniff, or just a wagging tail, it just won't be seen.

So, if the other dogs your dog is learning from are rambunctious, aggressive, or unlikely to recognize a dog without the right social cues, it can cause a communication issue.

The ideal is to make sure you're socializing your pup with stolid, calm, and unflappable dogs that can be just as graceful to a social faux paw as you will be.

As always, if you have any questions, please feel free to let me know! I'd be more than happy to help however I can!

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So, if your cat suddenly yowls while prowling in the grass or stalking something on the wall in another room, and you notice a paw or cheek swelling up, what should you do? Can your cat be allergic to stings? Is it an emergency? Let's talk about it.

Can Your Cat Be Allergic to Bee or Wasp Stings?

I have good news and bad news on this front.

The good news is, it's very rare for cats to be allergic to bee, wasp, and other insect stings. The bad news is, it's not impossible, which means if this is the first time your cat has ever been stung, you need to keep a close eye on them and be ready to bring them to the emergency vet ASAP if something goes wrong.

What are the symptoms of serious allergic reactions?

If your cat is allergic to whatever stung them, they can display serious symptoms, probably right away. Pain and swelling are normal, but serious allergic reactions include symptoms like:

• Weakness or collapsing.

• Rapid breathing or difficulty breathing, as well as panting.

• Hives.

• Vomiting.

• Severe swelling, particularly around the nose, face, and throat.

• Excessive drooling, which can indicate swelling in the throat.

• Seizures, which are an emergency no matter why they occur.

• Diarrhea, which can indicate an internal sting if they ate the bug.

Additionally, some kinds of insect stings are worse than others, and cats can be hypersensitive to some and not others. Knowing what kind of stinging insects are present in your area can help you determine if it's likely to be bad.

If you're worried about stings but your cat hasn't been stung before, consider talking to your vet about emergency antihistamines. You can usually give your cat a bit of Benadryl or another antihistamine as a preventative measure if they've been stung, but you want to make sure you know how much to give them, which can vary depending on their age, size, breed, and any existing health issues.

TL;DR: If your cat has some swelling in an innocuous place like a paw and is generally acting like they're sore but otherwise fine, just keep an eye on them. If they experience any severe or unusual symptoms, it's emergency vet time.

If your cat has ever had a serious allergic reaction to anything – an insect sting, food, or anything else – your vet will probably prescribe an EpiPen to keep on hand for emergencies. Make sure to use it if you see signs of a serious allergic reaction, and then head to the vet ASAP.

What Should You Do if Your Cat is Stung by a Wasp or Bee?

If your cat is stung, you'll want to first review the above and make sure it isn't serious. Beyond that, you can administer first aid. Here's what to do.

Step 0: Vacate the area if necessary

I'm putting this as a brief step zero because it's usually not necessary, but in some cases, it might be. Basically, if you and your fur baby are out exploring the yard, or you're hanging out in the garage, or something of the sort, you might encounter not just one stinging insect but a whole nest of them. If your cat has disturbed a hive insect that goes and brings its pals, it can go from an annoyance to extremely dangerous very quickly. Even cats that aren't allergic to insect stings can suffer extreme consequences if they're stung dozens of times!

So, if you happen to be in a place where you and your cat are at risk of disturbing a whole nest of stinging bugs, grab them and get out of there. Everything else comes after.

Step 1: See if you can recover the insect

Sometimes, whatever stung your cat will still be there. Some bees and wasps have barbed stingers that can stick in place, often with the whole insect still attached. Other times, a tenacious wasp might stick around to try to sting again. They can be surprisingly vindictive!

Locate the site of the sting and check to see if the insect is still there. You can use something like a credit card or other flat object to scrape the insect away (and potentially capture it in a cup if you think you need to) and make sure to check for a stinger left behind as well. If the insect isn't still there, you should still check for the stinger.

Note: don't use tweezers! For much the same reason you shouldn't use them on ticks, tweezers put pressure on the insect and can squeeze more venom or contaminants into your cat. Not only does this make it more painful, it can cause infections.

You don't need to keep the bee or wasp alive or even keep it. It's not really like spiders or snakes, where knowing the exact species can influence treatment or antivenom. It's more just so that if there happen to be extremely bad stinging wasps and less bad ones, you know what to expect.

The main goal is to get it away from you and your cat and out of the house if necessary. I don't really advocate for killing pollinators, but if that's what you need to do to keep yourself and your fur baby safe, so be it.

Step 2: Soothe the sting

Your next goal is to soothe the site of the sting as much as you can.

The biggest challenge here is wrangling your cat. In the initial aftermath of the sting – when it can do the most good – your cat probably won't want to be grabbed and hassled. Instead, you may be better off letting them settle a bit before you try to handle it. On the other hand, some cats will come right to you to make it better, so you never can tell.

There are a few ways you can soothe a bee or wasp sting.

One option is a cool to cold moist towel or washcloth. Cold can help numb and soothe the area, reduce immediate inflammation, and reduce any itching or pain that comes from the site of the sting. A damp, cold towel is the easiest option for a cat, but it can warm up relatively quickly. Ice can be more soothing and last longer, but a severe enough temperature difference can be shocking enough on its own to startle your cat and make them uncomfortable, which won't help.

If they won't sit still for the cold application, another option is to make a thick paste out of a little water and a bunch of baking soda. This is a home remedy with folklore that claims the baking soda can neutralize the venom of an insect sting. There hasn't been any real research to tell if this is true or not, but some people swear by it.

Step 3: Consider the cone

Or, well, not a cone, but an Elizabethan collar or another preventative measure. Since the site of the sting will be irritated, swollen, painful, and potentially itchy, you want to prevent your cat from scratching or biting themselves raw over it. If they're allowed to keep poking at it, they'll end up delaying the healing, which doesn't help anyone.

It depends on how bad the sting is, how reactive your cat is to it, and how effectively it can be soothed through other means. Some cats will just deal with it and will largely leave it alone, but others can't stop poking at it. So, a collar, a shirt, or another protective measure might be necessary.

Step 4: Evaluate if special feeding will be necessary

The two most common places where cats are stung are their paws and their face. This is because cats don't have a whole lot of ways they can interact with the world around them, so they'll paw at, pounce, sniff at, and even bite at things like bees and wasps, at least until they learn how to recognize it. These are also the areas with the thinnest fur; many bees and wasps might not even be able to penetrate through a cat's fur coat for a casual sting. They'd have to really work at it.

If your cat was stung on the face, even if it doesn't swell up in a way that hinders their breathing, it can still make it awkward for them to eat. So, if they have trouble eating (or drinking) due to a swollen cheek, lip, or other part of their face, you may need to hand-feed them for a day or two until the swelling goes down enough that they can eat on their own.

You might also consider adding water to soften up their kibble or dry food. It's not just a way to make it easier for them to eat, either. They may not want to drink as much as they should, so adding water to their food helps keep them hydrated.

Should you give your cat antihistamines?

Above, I mentioned the possibility of giving your cat something like Benadryl to help them deal with the reaction to the sting. Should you do so?

The answer here is probably not unless you have a good reason to do so. For a cat that doesn't have an allergic reaction to a bee sting, the irritation, pain, and swelling are just coming from the toxin, not so much from the histamine reaction. That means that something like Benadryl might help a little because it sedates your fur baby, but it's not going to do much more than that.

The antihistamine is primarily for either buying time to get to the vet in the case of a severe reaction or in the case where they do have an allergic reaction, but it's generally mild. Either way, you should consult with your vet to know whether or not you should give them any, and if so, how much of what.

It's also important to know that different antihistamines work differently, and some of them are dangerous for cats. Pet-friendly antihistamines are medications like chlorpheniramine, but they're generally very slow-acting, so they aren't good for a sudden sting.

Benadryl – diphenhydramine – is generally considered safe for pets, but some can be overly sensitive to it, and they don't need very much. It can cause toxicity, which has a variety of symptoms. Other antihistamines can also be bad for cats. You might also have a form of antihistamine that also includes pain medications or other compounds that can be dangerous.

It's usually best to talk to your vet before administering any medications. If your cat is suffering from a sting in a significant way, your vet can do more than just an antihistamine, too, like giving them IV fluids, corticosteroids, or a stronger medication like epinephrine.

Let it heal

Finally, all you can really do after the initial soothing is let it heal. Whether your cat needs a collar or just a day in a dark room away from annoyances, bee stings generally go away in 1-2 days as long as the symptoms are mild. All your fur baby needs is love, care, and time, as long as nothing dangerous is happening. You can give them that, right?

Fortunately, after a sting, cats often learn what a stinging insect looks like and will be able to avoid going after them again, as rare as they are to get inside in the first place.

As always, if you have any questions about anything I discussed in this article, please feel free to let me know. I always love helping my readers however I can!

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Which fruits are the best, and are there any fruits you should avoid? Let's dig right in!

#1: Apples

Apples are readily available all throughout the year and come in dozens of different varieties, which can be sweet, tart, and everything in between. They're rich in vitamin A and vitamin C, both of which are important for a healthy canine, and the dietary fiber they provide can help ensure clean bowel movements and minimal mess to clean up on those walks.

One important note about apples is that you should always slice them and keep the core away from your pooch. The core, which contains the seeds of the apple, is both tough and less pleasant to eat, and the seeds have cyanide in them.

While it's not enough cyanide for us humans to really worry about if we accidentally eat a seed or two, our dogs are much smaller and more vulnerable to those kinds of toxins.

Apples are also fairly firm, so cutting them into smaller bits helps reduce the risk of choking. That's going to be true of any firm fruit, so keep it in mind as you go.

#2: Blueberries

Blueberries are one of the healthiest fruits around for both people and puppies. They're super rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, and they're very tasty to boot.

As an added bonus, they're already bite-sized for dogs, so they're easy to just use as small treats or to hand over a handful after a good day of training.

Different people give blueberries differently, and it can also depend on the size of your dog. Small breeds might find berries to be a bit of a choking hazard, especially if they don't chew them properly, so you might consider mashing up the berries first.

You could also partially freeze them so they're more solid to chew on, which can be helpful if you want to put them in an engaging puzzle feeder.

One thing to keep in mind about blueberries is the pigment in their skin can stain, so don't give your dog blueberries when they're in the room with the white carpet. That same pigment can tint their poo later, too, so don't be too concerned if it looks a lot darker than normal after a handful of berries.

#3: Pears

Pears are a safe, tasty, and relatively inoffensive fruit you can give to your dog. Pear juice is used in tons of beverages because it's essentially a neutral flavor that just adds sweetness without adding too much sugar, and the same goes for using it as a dog treat.

Your dog will enjoy it, of course, and it's full of vitamins like vitamin C and vitamin K, which are important for a healthy doggo. As with most fruits, though, you want to make sure to remove the seeds and core before handing it over.

#4: Strawberries

Strawberries are sweet, delicious, and healthy for most dogs. They have vitamins, antioxidants, and plenty of healthy components. More importantly, there are no toxic substances you have to worry about.

Your dog could even eat them with the hull still on if you want, though I find that prepping a bunch of berries and leaving off the hulls is easier.

Strawberries are just on the edge of having too much sugar, so keep that in mind and only feed them in moderation. Smaller dogs can also find them a choking hazard, so making sure they're soft and ripe, mashing them, or cutting them into smaller pieces can be a good idea.

#5: Watermelon

A staple of summer, watermelon is one of the best fruits you can feed to your pup on a hot day. The rind should be removed, of course – it's tough and indigestible, so it's not very pleasant for your doggo.

The seeds should also be removed if possible, but they aren't likely to cause a huge problem if you miss a couple. Seedless watermelons can also be a good option if you don't want to go through all of that hassle.

The biggest benefit of watermelon is just the first part of the name: water. Watermelon is 90% water, so it's great for hydration without overdoing it on the water bowl and risking an accident or other problem. It also has a lot of potassium and vitamins, so it's generally healthy. Cut it, trim it down, and let them enjoy it!

#6: Coconut

Coconut is an interesting fruit in many ways. Obviously, you can't just give one shell and all to your pooch, but if you break it open and scoop out some of the fruit inside, it can be a tasty treat.

This really only applies to fresh coconuts, though. You don't want to be giving your pup sweetened and shredded coconut, or even coconut flakes, for both digestive and sugar reasons. On the plus side, it's a fruit rich in healthy fats, which can be a key part of your pup's macronutrient profile.

#7: Pumpkin

Depending on your perspective, pumpkin might be considered more of a vegetable than a fruit, but it's on my list either way. Pumpkin can be very tasty, healthy, and good for your dog, but you have to make sure you're either using unsweetened, unadulterated pumpkin puree or baking your own pumpkin so it's soft and good for them. Obviously, a pie filling full of sugar and spices just won't do.

Pumpkin Is also a key ingredient in healthy dog treats, dog treat recipes you can make at home, and even mixed with chicken for a tasty food when your dog is feeling under the weather.

#8: Cranberries

Cranberries aren't just a staple of juices, Christmas recipes, and that sauce in a can that comes out as a cylinder; they're an incredible superfood. They're packed with so many vitamins and minerals I could write a whole post just on how good they are.

I recommend sticking with fresh cranberries rather than dried, though; dried cranberries often have added sugars or even xylitol, and that's no good.

Are There Fruits to Avoid Giving to Your Dog?

Not all fruits are great for your dog, but most of them are at least safe. Some can be toxic, and others harmful in other ways.

The poster child for fruits to keep away from your dog is grapes. Grapes contain compounds that can be extremely toxic to dogs, but it's a per-dog sensitivity. Some are fine; some go into shock very quickly. Keep them away to be on the safe side. Note that this includes raisins as well!

Avocados are another example. It contains a compound called persin that can be dangerous, and while the flesh of the avocado doesn't have a ton of it, it can still be enough to upset your dog's stomach. The high fat content can also cause problems.

Another fruit you might want to avoid is pineapple. Pineapple can be given to your dog in moderation, but it has a few problems. For one thing, it's very high in sugar, which is generally bad for most dogs, especially dogs with prediabetes or diabetes.

The pineapple skin is indigestible, so it can cause digestion issues and even bowel obstructions. There's also the enzyme in it! If you've ever eaten a bunch of pineapple, you know that funny feeling in your mouth? That's the pineapple enzyme breaking down your mouth skin. You don't want to do that to your pooch, right?

Another fruit you might consider avoiding is blackberries. They're full of antioxidants and healthy phytochemicals, but they also contain naturally occurring xylitol, which is toxic to dogs. Your dog would have to eat a lot of them (unless it's a very small breed) to be hurt by it, but it's still better to be safe, right?

Dog Fruit Snacks FAQ

Now, let's round things out with a couple of questions that I didn't have space to cover in the list above.

What other fruits are good for dogs?

Most fruits are at least safe for your dog to eat or are safe after you do a little preparation. For example, mangos are a tasty treat, but you can't just give them one whole. The pit can cause problems if you do, and the skin is hard for your furry friend to digest. Peel and core the mango and give them bites of it, and you're fine.

Other melons than watermelon – like cantaloupe and honeydew – are also good options, but they have the same caveats. No rind, no seeds, in moderation because of the sugars.

What fruits should you leave off the list?

There are a handful of fruits that are healthy and won't hurt your dog the way a toxic fruit might but are still less good for them than the other fruits on the list.

One big example is bananas. Bananas are full of potassium and other nutrients and can be perfectly fine treats for a dog, but they're also very sweet and full of sugar, which can cause problems, especially if your dog is diabetic. Oranges are also one that is often more trouble than it's worth. You want to leave off the peel and the seeds, at which point you have a mess on your hands.

Peaches aren't bad for your dog – as long as you don't feed them the stone – but they're also emblematic of a common mistake, which is using canned rather than fresh peaches. Canned peaches have tons more sugar and are much worse for your dog. The same goes for any canned fruit, really.

Grapefruit is another fruit you should consider leaving off the list. It's annoying like oranges, but it's more acidic, which can upset your poor puppy's stomach. There are also compounds in grapefruit that can interfere with medications – it's more of a problem for people, but you don't want it to cause problems in a senior dog, right?

Is it a good idea to give dogs fruit as a treat?

Many fruits can be good treats. They're tasty, they're usually fairly healthy, and they serve to break up the usual routine of kibble and treats like cheese or sausage.

Even so, they should be considered a "sometimes food" because of their sugar content, and you still have to avoid the ones that can be bad for your pooch.

Do dogs need fruit to be healthy?

Nope!

As people, we're used to a balanced diet from the food pyramid, and the recommendation to get however many servings of fruit and veg each day. Dogs are omnivores just like us, so they can eat most of the same things, but they don't need to.

The biggest reason why is actually their existing food. Dog foods are specially formulated to contain all of the macro and micro-nutrients your dog will need to stay healthy. They don't need added fruits, vegetables, or anything else to stay healthy.

Why can we make a nutritionally-complete kibble for dogs but not for people? Dogs have much less complex dietary needs, for one thing. Human nutrition is immensely complicated, especially since we need to get it right, or we start to develop neurological problems.

We also live a lot longer, so there's a lot more time for problems to develop. Dogs might have problems subsisting just on kibble if they lived to be 60 as well, but they don't have that kind of lifespan.

How much fruit can my dog have?

Not much! In general, treats should make up 10% or less of your dog's diet. Fruit should be considered a treat, not a staple, for this purpose. So, try to avoid giving them too much fruit!

If your dog is eating too much fruit on a regular basis, they'll generally start to develop signs of an upset stomach. You don't want to make your fur baby sick, right?

So, there you have it: a good rundown of what fruits are good for dogs in moderation and which ones you might want to avoid. If you have a specific question about a fruit I haven't listed, feel free to drop me a line!

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There are a lot of concerns and considerations with litter boxes, though. They can be gross and messy, a cat can miss their box, and there are even concerns about the kind of litter you choose to use.

What if you could skip the box and train your cat to do what you do: use the toilet? It might sound far-fetched, but it's possible. Let's talk about it!

Why Do People Train Cats to Use the Toilet?

First, we can talk a bit about why you might consider training your cat to use the toilet. There are a few reasons, but they're all things you can probably guess.

You just don't want to deal with scooping and cleaning a litter box. None of us actually enjoy cleaning a litter box, right? If you do, give me a call, and I'm sure we could make a lucrative business out of it. But, really, it's just a dirty, smelly job that needs doing all the time. It's one of the costs of parenting our little fuzzy furballs. But is it really something we always have to do?

You're tired of the expense and mess of cat litter. Especially if you're going for one of the more eco-friendly cat litters, the mess – dust, stray bits, excess litter – can get everywhere and can be just as obnoxious to clean up as the refuse your cat leaves in it. And really, who wouldn't want to save a few bucks a month? Cat litter can be expensive, especially if you have multiple cats and multiple boxes to keep clean.

You don't have a great place to put a litter box. Some people live in very small apartments or in shared housing where the only place they can put a litter box is, say, in the bedroom. Sometimes, the toilet is the most convenient option.

Despite the reasons you might decide to train your cat to use the toilet, there are some good reasons why you might want to hold off, so stay tuned for those later.

Can You Train Your Cat to Use the Toilet?

Well, I probably wouldn't be writing this post if it wasn't possible at all, right? Okay, to be fair, I probably would just because it's a topic people have asked about.

People have been training their cats to use the toilet for many years, though the practice wasn't really popularized until 2011 when some people decided to pitch a product on Shark Tank. That product, the CitiKitty, launched with moderate success and grew from there. These days, there are a bunch of other products in the same vein, like the Cat Throne, the Litter Kwitter, and a bunch of generically-named and off-brand versions on Amazon and the like.

The products work, and some cats can be trained to use the toilet to do their business. It's even a surprisingly simple process. But, you'll note an important word I just said: some.

Some cats are perfectly happy to be trained to use the toilet. Others are very skeptical and hesitant about the idea. Some just don't want to do it at all. So, it really comes down to your specific cat, whether or not they take to the idea.

The benefits of training your cat to use the toilet are pretty obvious, too. You don't have to deal with cat litter, the smell of cat litter and cat droppings won't permeate your home the way they do in homes with litter boxes, and it can help you free up a bit of space and leave behind the litter box. That just leaves us with one question: how do you do it?

How Do You Train Your Cat to Use the Toilet?

Fortunately, if you're going to try to train your cat to use the toilet instead of a litter box, it's a relatively easy process.

My biggest tip would be to buy one of the products that helps you do it. They're relatively cheap – usually under $50, though some are as expensive as $130 – but you can always try to resell it later or keep it for the next time you need to train a cat.

That said, if you don't want to buy a product, you can do it yourself. Cardboard, wax paper, and other household items can make a serviceable replacement as long as you're willing to put a little arts and crafts into it.

Step 1: Move Their Litter Box to The Bathroom

If your feline friend's litter box is anywhere else in the house, your first job is to move it into the bathroom, ideally right next to the toilet.

While this sounds like an easy step, it's a little harder than it sounds. That's because the further away the litter box is from the toilet, the longer you need to take to do it. If you just move the litter box all the way across the house all at once, your cat might not be able to find it when they need to go, and they're more likely to go where it was. So, you need to move it in stages, from one side of the room to the other, then to the next room, and across that room, and so forth.

This is made even harder if you have to traverse a common area or an open area during that move. Cats don't like to do their business where they feel exposed! So, you might need to invest in a litter box enclosure of some kind, which you move with the litter box inside it.

Let your cat set the pace here. If they have an accident during this process, move it back to the last place they successfully used it, and don't be afraid to take your time. The more litter mishaps they have, the more likely it is that your training won't work.

Step 2: Raise the Litter Box Bit By Bit

Your second step is to get your cat used to jumping up into the litter box. Since you're going to be training them to use the toilet, and the toilet is obviously at a height convenient for humans, your cat will need to jump up onto it to do their business. But, putting their litter box up on what is effectively a shelf right away can make them feel uncomfortable, and they might not want to use it. So, instead, raise it an inch or two at a time. Again, this will take a while until you get it to toilet seat height, so be sure to take your time with it.

The biggest tip I can give you here is to make absolutely certain the litter box is weighted or secured in a way that will keep it from tipping or moving when your cat jumps up onto it. Whether that means putting a weight on it (or in it), zip-tying it to a stand, or securing it in some other way, just make sure it's secure. The absolute worst thing that can happen now is for your cat to jump up and have the whole thing tip over, spilling litter, anything in the litter, and your cat, and leaving them scared of the experience.

This is also a great place to do a little training for yourself. If you're used to putting the toilet lid down when you're done using it, you want to break that habit. Two reasons! One, if your cat jumps up onto your toilet to then step down into the litter box, you don't want them to jump in a suddenly open seat and startle themselves. Two, if you leave the seat closed once your cat is more well-trained, they'll have nowhere to go.

Step 3: Start Using the Training Box

At this point, it's a simple matter to make your toilet into a litter box. You start by just putting a tray over the top with some litter in it, which is effectively just moving the litter box over a bit. Then, over time, you start "opening up" the hole.

When you look at any of the commercial products meant for this training, you see what I mean. It's basically just a series of nested rings and a cap in the middle. You start with it closed, then remove the middle so that you get used to there being a hole there. Then, you gradually remove ring after ring until there's nothing left but the toilet seat.

Different cats will take a different amount of time to get used to the change each step of the way. Some will reach a certain point and stop, which means either you need to go back a step or your cat might not be willing to go any further. Depending on the size of the gap they stop, you may be able to continue with using it, or you might not. It all depends on your cat!

At this point, you might want to keep an eye on your cat and give them a reward when they use the toilet properly. This isn't always necessary, but it can help with some of the more hesitant felines.

A question I often see here is if you should try to teach your cat to flush. You can if you want, but keep in mind that cats just do things sometimes, so if you don't want to wake up in the middle of the night to your cat repeatedly flushing the toilet, maybe leave that behavior out of the training.

What Are the Drawbacks to Training a Cat Using the Toilet?

Up above, I mentioned that there are some reasons why you might not want to do this training. While it works for some people, there are some reasons to consider not doing so and just dealing with a litter box. Let's go over them.

First, your cat doesn't get to scratch and dig after doing their business. This is a natural instinct your cat has to bury their waste, and it has secondary benefits like helping to temper their claws and clean their paws. They don't get to do that with the toilet, and that can be stressful for some cats.

Another possible issue is if you have more than one cat, they might fight over the territory. Generally, the advice is to have one litter box plus one box per cat so they all can have their own safe territory to do their business. If you only have one toilet, or if you only have two but have more than two cats, it can cause problems.

Next, using the toilet means perching on the seat, which can be awkward for some cats. It's not a natural position compared to what they do in the litter box, and some cats find it unpleasant. In extreme circumstances, this can even cause some bowel issues.

In some cases, if your cat slips and falls in, it can startle them and stress them into not using the toilet. It only takes one accident to undo a lot of training, and then you're left dealing with litter accidents and a litter box again.

One of the more important drawbacks is that you miss signs of medical problems. A lot of common medical issues are only diagnosed when you notice that your cat's urine or feces are different than normal, but when it's dunked into the toilet and diluted or breaks down, you don't notice that until the problem gets worse.

Finally, when your cat gets older, they might not be able to do it anymore. Cats with joint or mobility problems can't make the jump as easily, they might not be able to perch comfortably enough on the seat to do the deed, and they might lose their balance.

Overall, training a cat to use the toilet can be an interesting trick, and it can be beneficial if you have certain cramped, small living conditions, but a lot of the time, it isn't really worth it.

If you have any questions about anything I covered in this article, be sure to let me know in the comments section!

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Now, we've all been there, right? Everyone has that moment as a kid where they eat too much cake and feel sick, or gorge on holiday candy and treats, or just go too deep on whatever it is they're fixated on at the time. However, we don't usually eat until we actually throw up. And, critically, we're doing it with something we enjoy.

So, do dogs just really like eating grass? Is this a behavior we should be worried about? Let's talk about it.

Why Do Dogs Eat Grass Until Vomiting?

First up, let's talk a bit about why dogs eat grass in the first place. Then, we'll get into whether or not you should be concerned and what you should do about it.

Before getting into the actual reasons, I wanted to mention a common myth: that dogs are intentionally gorging themselves on grass to induce vomiting.

So, you know how when you have nausea, and you feel the bile rising in your throat, and your mouth starts to salivate a lot? It's a biological reaction to get you to swallow a lot of liquid to try to settle your stomach, or at least coat your mouth and throat before you vomit to protect it from stomach acid.

In dogs, the same sort of thing happens, but they don't really know how to deal with it. Most of the time, they start licking or chewing on anything nearby. If they're outside in the yard or on a walk, they'll start eating grass in an attempt to settle their stomachs, but since grass isn't really part of their diet, it can trigger their gag reflex and make them vomit.

Basically, they aren't intentionally making themselves vomit, but that's what ends up happening, and since vomiting often alleviates whatever was causing the digestive upset in the first place, it kind of works out.

Another common reason people think dogs eat grass is out of boredom, but that's not really accurate either. Dogs, when they're bored, are more likely to be destructive than consumptive. They might eat things like grass, cardboard, furniture, pillow stuffing, and whatever else they can get their paws on, but it's more of a side effect of just tearing it apart. They aren't doing it to eat grass; they're doing it as part of just doing something to get your attention.

What are the actual reasons dogs eat grass? There are basically three main reasons.

Reason #1: They just like the taste.

The first reason dogs eat grass is just because they like how it tastes.

You and I eat vegetables and (usually) enjoy them, right? Whether it's some lettuce in a salad, some broccoli or cauliflower roasted in the oven, or a nice pile of carrots and potatoes on the side, vegetables can be quite delicious.

And, of course, we all know that dogs love eating things they find tasty. Whether it's their kibble, a treat like a bit of cheese, or a pile of something weird and gross on the ground, they'll dig right in. Their tastes might not make sense to us, but to them, and the way they see the world, it's delicious.

Grass can be tasty in its own right. Even plants you might not think you would eat can be tasty in the right preparations, and to dogs, that right preparation might be as simple as "still wet from morning dew or a rainstorm" or "covered in the scent of other animals that ran through here."

It also ties into the second reason; after all, when you evolve to do something, you probably evolve to at least find it palatable.

Reason #2: It's an instinctual behavior.

Dogs are a distant offshoot of wolves, and wolves also eat grass. They do it for many of the same reasons, but also, it's just part of hunting. Sometimes, they need something moderately nutritious to fuel them while they hunt prey. Sometimes, when they take down prey, as they eat the meat, they end up with mouthfuls of grass as well. They can't necessarily afford to be picky eaters, so they take what they get.

A lot of times, dogs just have this need to eat grass as they pass by. There doesn't really need to be a deeper meaning to it at all; it's just something they do because their little goofy brains tell them it's a good idea.

Reason #3: They have an upset stomach.

I already covered this one above in a roundabout way. Dogs don't really have the drive to eat grass to satisfy an upset stomach, but if they're feeling nauseous, they might want something to try to keep it down. If they don't have access to grass, maybe they'll just start licking the carpet, or they'll go and drink a bunch of water.

And, truth be told, sometimes it works. In fact, while the experience of a dog eating grass and then throwing up seems universal, studies have shown that only around 10% of dogs show any sign of being ill before they eat grass, and only a quarter of them vomit after eating grass. You might even be able to attribute the vomiting to over-eating in general or to eating something on the grass that disagrees with them.

In a way, it's a lot like how we can settle our stomachs with neutral crackers or digestives or something else that can soak up churning stomach acid and help the system move a little faster.

Should You Worry If Your Dog is Eating Grass?

Honestly, probably not!

It's fairly natural for dogs to eat grass from time to time. Some of them will want to eat grass pretty often, maybe on every walk or every chance they get. Others might only think of it as a sometimes snack, taking mouthfuls of a tasty grass they find along the way but generally leaving it all along.

There are a few good reasons why you might want to do some redirection training and help keep your dog from eating grass too often, though.

• If they eat too much grass, it can fill them up, so they won't eat their normal food and can end up deficient.
• If they eat too much grass, it can cause an upset stomach and lead to problems.
• They might eat things along with the grass that they shouldn't, whether it's sharp bits of wood, stinging plants like nettles, plants like poison ivy that can cause a bad reaction, or things like stinging insects that can cause other problems.
• The grass they eat might have chemicals or other nastiness on it that can be dangerous for your dog, even if the grass itself is not.

Overall, if your dog is eating grass, you should look at the situation and figure out why they're doing it and if it's cause for concern. If it's sporadic or occasional and doesn't seem to cause them any problems, you can leave it be.

If they're eating grass while also doing things like digging holes or tearing up the carpet, it probably means they're bored. They might also do things like eat your houseplants, which is also obviously not something you want them to be doing.

Boredom means that training isn't likely to work since it doesn't address the cause of the problem. You'll simply need to find ways to keep your dog entertained and engaged, even when you're not around. That might mean hiring a pet sitter for the day, or a dog walker, or getting friends to hang out and care for them. Alleviating boredom and the anxiety that comes with it is the key.

If your dog seems to have a compulsion to eat grass and they seem to be fixated on it whenever you take them out, there are two things you can do.

The first is to take them to the vet to see if there's actually something wrong with them. It's pretty rare for this to be the case – your fur baby isn't going to be eating grass as their sole symptom, so you'd be able to recognize if they're sick in other ways – but it's possible. A rare disorder called pica, or disordered eating, can lead to dogs trying to eat just about everything they see, including grass. Other medical issues, like gastric reflux, IBS, or pancreatitis, can also lead to eating grass. It's a good idea to rule these out.

The other thing you should do is try redirection training. Redirection training just means that whenever you see your dog start to lean over to eat grass, you give them a call or command to distract them and reward them for not eating the grass. I find that a "drop it" command can be pretty effective.

If you do this consistently enough, they'll attach the reward in their mind to the act of refraining from eating grass, and they'll stop. You do need to be consistent and proactive with it. It will take some time, just like all dog training, but it's not actually all that hard to do.

Overall, though, unless your dog has accidentally poisoned themselves, gotten themselves sick or parasitized, or is eating so much that they cause problems, you probably don't need to worry about them eating grass. Sometimes, the things dogs do are just things dogs do, and they aren't a sign of anything worse.

Another thing you can try is changing their food. There was one recorded example of a dog that ate grass to the point of vomiting every day for years, and it turned out to be something with their food that disagreed with them. When their parents changed their food, they stopped eating grass, and everything was good. That might not be the case for your dog, but it might be worth a try.

Dog Grass Eating FAQ

Now, let's round things out with a few questions you might have that didn't fit into the main sections.

Do dogs like eating grass?

Maybe! Like most things, your dog is an individual, and they have their own preferences. Some dogs don't care about grass one way or the other. Some prefer to avoid it when they can. Some like the texture or the taste of the grass. Some might not actually be going after the grass itself, but rather, some kind of chemical or fertilizer or a specific plant in the grass, like clover. If you notice that your dog eats grass a lot more in the spring, that's likely it; fresh grass shoots and wildflower sprigs are sweeter and more tender, while later summer and fall grasses are rougher and more likely to be bitter.

Is grass bad for dogs to eat?

Only in excess. Dogs are omnivores just like we are, so just like we can eat some vegetables in our diet, dogs can have a little grass as a treat if they like. Cats are the same way, though they aren't quite the same kind of omnivore.

That said, if they eat too much grass, it can cause problems, so you should probably try to train away that behavior as much as you can. You don't need them to fully stop; just not eat to excess.

More importantly, though, even if the grass isn't bad for your dog, you never know what's in the grass. There could be toxic fertilizer, pesticides, roadside chemicals, and even parasites that can come along for the ride. If you keep your yard free of contaminants, you may be fine, but it's best to be safe.

Is eating grass a sign of nutritional deficiency?

While this is a pretty common myth, it's actually just that: a myth. For one thing, if you're feeding your dog right, they won't be nutritionally deficient in the first place. More importantly, if they are deficient in some nutrient or another, they'll have symptoms of that deficiency, usually weight loss, lethargy, loss of coordination, or another sign of illness.

Overall, you generally don't need to worry about your dog eating grass, even if they vomit after doing it. It's only if they do it over and over and over that it might be an issue, but even then, it's unlikely to be an emergency. Just mention it next time you bring them to the vet, and work on some training along the way.

As always, if you have any questions about anything I covered in this article, be sure to let me know in the comments section!

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Well, unfortunately, our fur babies don't know English and can't really think in terms of conceptual idioms. You can tell them not to bite the hand that feeds, but when they're riled up, there's a pretty good chance they still will. And, unlike people acting out, cats that bite the hand that feeds are literally biting a literal hand. Ouch!

Cats aren't really trying to hurt you when they bite you, but it can still be painful, especially if they weren't socialized as kittens and don't know how to control their teeth. Obviously, you don't want to get bitten by your kitten, so how do you deal with cat biting? Read on to find out!

Why Cats Bite

First, let's talk about why cats bite in the first place.

Much like dogs, cats don't have a lot of ways they can interact with the world around them. They aren't as outgoing and exploratory as dogs – they aren't going to be putting everything they can in their mouths – but they still have to interact in some way. Biting is one of those behaviors they use to interact with and learn about the world around them.

While we tend to view biting as a negative behavior (because it hurts), it's actually not usually negative; it's neutral or even a little positive. It's an instinctual behavior, and it can come from many causes.

Cat Biting Cause #1: Affection Biting

The first cause for cat biting is actually a sign of affection. It's not really a full-mouth bite but more of a little nip or nibble.

It can happen as a sort of progression from mutual grooming; your cat is cuddling, licks at you a bit, and decides they've found something they want to pick at a bit more and uses their teeth to do it.

Normally, cats do this to each other to help pick away knotted fur or remove parasites from each other, but you probably don't have those. So, what are they biting at? It doesn't have to be much. A bit of body hair, a skin tag, a fingertip.

There's not really much of anything wrong with this kind of biting other than the fact that it can be unpleasant for you if they bite the wrong thing.

A similar and related kind of cat biting is when they're bored. This is a kind of affection biting, but it's because they're seeking affection. They want you to play, so they may start trying to bat at and bite at your hands or feet to get you to give them attention.

Cat Biting Cause #2: Play

This one is most common with cats playing with each other but can occur when you're playing with them. One of the ways cats play with each other is with faux hunting.

One will stalk and pounce on the other, they'll tussle a bit, and separate. Then, the roles reverse, and the hunter becomes the hunted. This kind of back-and-forth play is a good way to teach hunting behaviors and socialization without much risk of issues.

With cat-on-cat playing, as long as they're not yowling and trying to escape, it's all fun and games. Cats are pretty good at letting each other know when enough is enough, and the play session will end before either goes overboard.

If you're playing with your cat, there's a decent chance they'll nip at you while you're engaging with them. Sometimes, it's cause #3 below, but other times, it's just how they interact with you.

Cat Biting Cause #3: Overstimulation

A third and potentially related cause of cat biting is overstimulation. This can occur in two different scenarios.

The first is during cuddling and petting or brushing. You're sitting there idly stroking your cat's fur while they doze or simply enjoy it. Maybe you rub at their face a little, scratch behind their ears, whatever you and they enjoy.

Have you ever been hanging out and generally enjoying yourself, but it starts to get to be too much? Maybe a noise in the background starts to bother you more and more.

Maybe the feeling of a fabric pressed against your skin is starting to chafe. Cats can experience the same sort of thing! It's called overstimulation. They may enjoy you petting them and scratching behind their ears, but if you do it too much, they're going to tip over beyond enjoyment and into irritation.

In this case, they'll probably nip at your hand when you try to keep petting them. This nip is a warning; your cat is saying "please stop" in as polite a way as they can manage.

They'd like to continue sitting near you, but they want you to stop touching them. If you keep on petting them, they'll get more aggravated and will probably just leave.

The other scenario where overstimulation biting occurs is during play. If you're playing with them with your hand – going after their belly, flopping them around, picking them up, and putting them down – they may have enough of it. They'll bat at your hands, maybe kick at you with their hind legs, and eventually escalate into nipping at you.

Some cats do this as part of play, while others use it to signal that they're done with playing and it's time to stop. If you keep aggressively playing with them, they'll get more and more aggressive in return until either you stop or they leave.

Cat Biting Cause #4: Fear

This one is a very different kind of bite. The first two causes are from cats that generally know and trust you and who are just warning you a little bit to settle down. This third cause is from a cat that doesn't know you and doesn't trust you.

Cats may be ferocious hunters, but they're still small, and they're vulnerable to larger predators. As such, they really don't like the feeling of being hunted, cornered, or threatened.

Cats can try to bite if you're cornering them or stalking them, and they feel like they have no way out except through violence.

This is most common with ferals or strays that have not been socialized in a while and can happen a lot when you're trying to TNVR them to make your local environment safer for them.

The less well-socialized a cat is, the more likely they are to feel this way and to bite out of reaction. They'll also swipe at you, hiss at you, spit or snarl at you, and generally make it clear that they don't want you to approach.

Cat Biting Cause #5: Pain

Another major cause of cat biting is pain.

One thing most of us know about cats is that they really don't like showing when they're feeling bad. Showing weakness in the wild is a good way to be singled out by a predator, after all. That means when a cat is in pain, whether it's from an injury, infection, illness, or disease, they're going to do everything they can to hide it.

As a cat parent, you'll hopefully be able to recognize this based on a change in behavior. They'll be more withdrawn, less energetic, have less of an appetite, and likely will hide more. When you notice this, you can bring your furry child to the vet to get them checked out, though coaxing them out so you can take them might be difficult.

If you're still able to interact with your cat while they're in pain, the good news is it's probably not that bad. The bad news is it can seem like a sudden change in attitude or behavior when you touch the wrong spot, and they lash out.

Really, it's not much different from someone poking you when you're in pain and you swatting at them to go away. If you poke a bruise, cut, sensitive patch of skin, or area with internal pain, your cat may react with a bite.

How to Get Your Cat to Stop Biting

The first thing you need to do to get your cat to stop biting is to identify why they're biting in the first place.

Start by asking yourself a question: are they biting on their own initiative, or are they biting out of a reaction?

If your cat is biting on their own initiative, it's usually because they're seeking attention. You can train away this behavior by redirecting biting; when they start to bite at you, redirect them with a toy that they're allowed to bite instead of your appendages.

If your cat is biting out of a reaction – which is going to be the most common cause by far – you need to identify what they're reacting to.

• If they're biting when you touch a certain place, stop touching that place. If they are reacting badly and have other behavioral changes, consider taking them to the vet in case something is wrong.
• If they're biting when you haven't changed what you're doing for a while – like idly petting them while cuddling or watching TV – it's their way of telling you they've had enough of what you're doing, and you should stop.
• If they're biting when you're playing with them, it's probably overstimulation, and it's a sign that you need to dial back on what you're doing to let them calm down a bit before re-engaging. That, or switch to a toy that they can bite without causing you problems.

If you can recognize that the reason they're biting is because of something you're doing, it's easy enough to stop doing whatever that is.

The biggest exception is if you're trying to corner them to, say, take them to the vet, which is really the wrong approach in the first place.

The vet should be a relatively pleasant experience if you can make it one, such as by helping your cat be more comfortable with their carrier so it's not a sign of an unpleasant time.

Cat Biting FAQ

Let's wrap things up with a few questions you might have. If I haven't answered your question, feel free to ask in the comments!

Is cat biting normal?

It sure is! Cats don't have a lot of options when it comes to play, fighting, defensiveness, or interaction with the world around them. It really comes down to body language, noises, paws and claws, and biting. Of course, they're going to use every tool at their disposal, depending on the circumstances.

Is biting a sign that your cat is sick?

It can be. If your cat is sick, they certainly won't want to be touched, but they're more likely to go hide from you than they are to stick around and bite if you try to pet them. Sometimes, though, they can have an injury that doesn't cause them active pain, but they'll bite if you touch it and it hurts.

Reactionary biting out of nowhere can be a sign that something vet-worthy is happening, though, so keep it in mind when and call your vet if it happens for seemingly no reason.

Can you train cats to stop biting?

Yup! Much like any form of animal training, and especially cat training, it's all about redirecting their behaviors into something you prefer while rewarding them for doing what you want rather than what you don't.

If your cat is very young – such as within their first six to twelve months of age – they will probably be more bitey than older cats. When that's the case, they may grow out of it as they get older, and training might not even be necessary.

Is there anything to avoid when training a cat to stop biting?

There is, yes. The biggest thing you need to avoid is punishment. If you do something like swat at your cat when they bite, they may respond with more aggression, or they might feel like it's more play and will escalate, depending on the situation. Either way, it results in more biting, not less. Even things like punishment by removing something aren't necessarily going to teach them not to bite.

Is there anything else I didn't cover? If so, let me know!

They're still babies, so they're still learning how to exist in this wild world of ours, and it's our job to make sure they're set up to succeed as best they can.

Potty training isn't necessarily easy. You need to keep track of their needs and their progress, make sure they aren't suffering from an allergy or dietary sensitivity, and they aren't getting into things they should that lead to accidents.

It also requires you to be very consistent, to make sure your pup knows when you take them to potty, it's for potty, not for play or socialization. While you can potty train a dog of any age, it's easiest and most effective when they're very young.

Sometimes, unfortunately, your pup may regress in their training. If they're still a puppy and they're still in the midst of training, a regression might just mean accidents you need to deal with. If they're an older dog, incontinence can be a greater concern.

So, what can cause potty training regression, and what can you do about it? Let's talk about it.

What is Puppy Potty Training Regression?

Potty training regression generally refers to your puppy having accidents they shouldn't be having. Say, for example, you've been taking your puppy out to potty every couple of hours, but they're getting better at holding it, and you're able to let them go for 4-5 hours at a time instead.

For a few weeks, they've been good, with no indoor accidents, going outside when you bring them outside for it, and all seems well.

Then, out of nowhere, they start having accidents inside again. It's not necessarily even just a single accident, but a series; it seems like you're going to have to go back to every two hours, and the broken sleep once again.

This is potty training regression: a return to an earlier point in the potty training schedule, accidents when there weren't accidents before, and the frustration of seeing things go awry.

Are There Different Kinds of Puppy Potty Training Regression?

While a regression is a regression, the age and level of training of your puppy can mean different things.

If your puppy is regressing when they're around four months old, it's probably the most common kind of regression, which is just progressing training schedules too much, too soon.

We like to think that our puppies are more or less fully potty trained around this age, but that's really just optimistic. Most puppies take a little longer, and a regression at this point is normal.

If your puppy is regressing when they're closer to seven or eight months old, it's also a very common reason: training tends to lighten up. You don't want to have to give your pup a treat every time they go to the bathroom, right?

So, you're probably lightening up on the training and the positive reinforcement, and that can make training regress. Basically, you just have to stick with the training – and the rewards – a little longer.

If your puppy is regressing when they're around 10 or 11 months old, there are a handful of reasons why it might be happening. This is a time when puppies are starting to reach sexual maturity, which causes a lot of changes.

Male puppies are more likely to start marking their territory – which isn't quite the same as an accident – and female puppies are dealing with floods of hormones and distractions.

If your puppy is regressing when they're a year or more older, it's less likely to be a training regression, and more likely to be something like a medical issue. I'll talk more about that in my list of possible causes.

If your dog is much older – into their senior years – and they're having accidents, it's regression in another sense. Sadly, it's a sign of doggy dementia. Again, more on that in a bit.

What Are the Different Causes of Puppy Potty Training Regression?

There are a ton of different reasons why potty training regression can happen. Some of them are behavioral, some of them are reactionary, some of them are medical. Let's talk about them!

Regression Due to Overestimation or Overeating

One of the first – and thankfully, least bad – causes of regression is that your puppy simply can't hold it in any longer. One of two things happens here.

The first is that you've overestimated how long your puppy can hold their bowels, and you're not taking them out as often as they need to go.

Young puppies only have so much ability to control themselves, and when you're training them, your goal is to extend that amount of time. But, just like we people, if they go too long without having the chance to go, they'll experience cramping, pain, and, eventually, involuntary incontinence.

The solution here is simply to keep track of how long they can go without going, and don't push too far, too fast.

The second possibility here is that you've overestimated your puppy's capacity for food and water. When you drink a lot of water, you have to pee a lot sooner than you would if you don't drink much water. You can't deny your puppy food and water, of course, but if they overeat or drink too much, they'll have to go sooner rather than later.

This is particularly common when you're getting them more exercise, playing a lot to tire them out, and then bring them back in and let them drink until they're restored. You'll probably need to take them back out right away, but if you don't think about it, you might not realize that, which leads to an accident, and a regression.

Fortunately, this is just another case of vigilance. You need to pay more attention to the situation and take them out when they need it.

Regression Due to Medical Issues

Another common cause of potty training regressions – and accidents as your puppy gets older – is medical problems.

All sorts of medical problems can cause regressions. Some of the most common include:

• A urinary tract infection, or UTI, which causes irritation and pain as well as a loss of bladder control.
• Diabetes, which is rare in young puppies but can occur due to genetic or congenital factors, and needs to be appropriately managed to prevent incontinence.
• Inflammatory bowel disease, which is a chronic condition characterized by bowels that don't work quite right and get inflamed easily, leading to incontinence and other symptoms.
• Kidney disease, which can be caused by a bunch of different factors, including undetected UTIs, and cause more accidents.
• Medicine side effects. Sometimes if your puppy is on another medication, they can have side effects including incontinence. Your prescribing vet should tell you about it, so you can prepare, and it should alleviate once they're off the medication.

If you're taking your puppy out on a tight schedule and they shouldn't be having issues, but they're still having regressions, you might consider taking them to the vet as soon as you can.

It's not "rush them to the emergency vet" dangerous, but you should still schedule a rapid consultation if you can. UTIs and other infections are no joke, and chronic conditions need to be managed to prevent problems down the line.

In some cases, a simple medication or a change in diet is all you need to solve the regressions. Other times, you may need more long-term treatments.

Regression Due to Stress or Anxiety

Another cause you might consider is significant sources of stress and anxiety.

Some dogs get separation anxiety, which can manifest particularly when you're away at work or you're asleep at night.

Whether it's night crying, accidents, barking, whining, or other behavioral issues, it's a kind of anxiety that needs to be handled before it becomes a huge disruption.

Other times, it might be because of a change in lifestyle or routine. If you recently had to move to a new house, for example, a whole unfamiliar place can be very stressful and can lead to regressions. Similarly, major life changes can do the same.

Similarly, if you're getting another new animal, uncertainty with the new pet might also cause problems. A particularly sensitive puppy might relieve themselves out of submissiveness, or they may be bullied, or they may just be anxious and scared. This usually alleviates with proper socialization.

Regression Due to Allergies or Sensitivities

As you might expect, the cause of incontinence might not actually be a regression in training, but rather, a problem with what your puppy is eating.

Allergies can cause stomach upset, which can lead to diarrhea and incontinence. Sensitivities are the same, but are broadly less dangerous.

A sensitivity can be disruptive to the digestive system and is definitely unpleasant, but an allergy can be both very damaging to their systems and even, in some cases, fatal.

If you've switched to a new food or a new treat recently and regressions have started happening, check to see if there's an ingredient your puppy might be sensitive to or allergic to. You might also talk to your vet about allergy tests. There are some tests, like a RAST test, which can help identify allergies.

Regression Due to Faulty Training

Unfortunately, one of the other common causes of potty training regression in dogs is faulty training.

If you're not consistent enough about it, or you stop giving rewards too soon, or if you just hit a point where you assume they should be trained and treat them as if they are, they can regress because they aren't being given the constant feedback. While this is definitely a pet parent mistake, it's at least easily fixable by buckling down and taking training more seriously.

Even if your dog seems like they're very good at letting you know when they need to go, they aren't always actually aware of it themselves, and you might not always recognize the signals they're giving you, especially if you're distracted. Similarly, if you're co-parenting, your partner might also not be on the same page as you, and that can cause problems as well.

Puppy Potty Training Regression FAQ

Let's wrap things up with a few of the common questions I get about puppy potty training and training regression.

Is potty training regression dangerous?

Usually, no. It's annoying for you to have to clean up the mess when it happens, it's stressful for your puppy if they're stuck in a crate with that mess and can't distance themselves from it, but it's not itself dangerous.

The danger comes from if the root cause of their regression is medical. Medical issues like infections or allergies require diagnosis and appropriate treatment, and if you don't get them, they can get worse and have disastrous consequences. If you're at all unsure of why a regression is happening, call your vet!

Is puppy potty training regression normal?

Unfortunately, yes. There are a lot of possible causes of potty training regression, almost all of which are fairly common. In a way, it's almost rare to have a puppy that doesn't experience at least one regression. That's really just part of the training process.

Does regression mean you did something wrong?

Maybe, but not necessarily. If it's something you did, it's either because of a lifestyle or schedule change that stressed out your puppy, or it's because you're rushing their training when you should be taking more time to make sure it's reinforced. Either way, it's relatively easily corrected; just like your puppy, you need to learn and grow.

At the end of the day, the biggest thing you need to know is that potty training regressions are normal and can happen for a lot longer than you might think.

Don't take it as a personal failure, and definitely don't take it out on your pooch! You both want what's best for each other, so act with kindness and keep up the training. I promise things will work out.

If you have any additional questions that I haven't covered in this article, be sure to let me know in the comments section! I'd be more than happy to help however I can!

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The idea that they're natural enemies has a foundation in reality, though, so it's something you need to know and account for when you're introducing the two.

If you have a household with established cats, and you want to bring a new puppy into the fold, you need to do so very carefully. If your cats get the wrong first impression, it can set the tone for their whole relationship, and the last thing you want is antagonism between your beloved furry children.

So, let's talk about what you need to do to successfully introduce a new puppy to your cats!

Why Cats and Dogs Don't Get Along

Cartoons may have you believe that cats and dogs do nothing but fight, but there are also plenty of adorable photos showing the exact opposite, and that copacetic relationship is what you really want.

But why is it that cats and dogs so often don't get along? Well, it comes down almost entirely to behaviors.

The dog prey drive.

For example, dogs have an engrained prey drive instinct. This is the same instinct that compels dogs to play fetch, chase squirrels, and – in the case of herding breeds – round up livestock or even people.

So, when they see something smaller than them, like a cat, they're likely to try to chase it around. For a cat, of course, that's incredibly stressful and terrifying; they feel like they're being, well, chased and hunted.

Even if the dog doesn't do anything to them but say hi, lick, or play when they catch them, the cat is likely going to be very stressed about the whole process.

Dogs are also usually larger than cats, so it's a lot easier for the cat to feel threatened by them, even if the adorable doggo is just a huge puppy.

Body language of cats and dogs.

There are also fundamental differences in body language. In a dog, wagging a tail is a sign of happiness; for a cat, a swishing tail is a sign of agitation and irritation. So, a dog seeing a cat's tail swishing around might interpret it as a time to play and be social, while the cat just wants to be left alone.

Eye contact is also a big one. Cats lock eyes and stare when they're afraid or hunting; dogs lock eyes and watch when they're having a good time. Cats that are comfortable and happy tend to do long blinks and look away; dogs don't.

When you're bringing a dog into an established cat household, it's also important to realize that this feels like an intrusion on their territory.

Cats are pretty territorial and like to lay claim to their areas, and when a dog is added to the mix, it's another animal – another predator – taking over some of their space.

Depending on how defensive your cats are, this can be a huge source of stress and defensiveness.

How to Introduce a Puppy to Established Cats

If you want to bring a new puppy into a household with established cats, you need to go about things the right way.

Otherwise, you're going to have a lifetime of stress, fighting, and vigilance to make sure they don't hurt one another. Fortunately, this isn't uncommon, and introducing the dog as a puppy is the best option.

It's even better if you can have the cats socialized with dogs when they're kittens, but that's not always possible.

So, how do you go about the process?

Laying the groundwork for cats and dogs to coexist.

The first thing you need to do is make sure your cats have a lot of freedom they can use to escape the dog. Cats, when they're stressed and have had enough, prefer to retreat and hide to chill.

If they don't have a place they can go to relax and feel safe, they'll get more and more stressed until they lash out.

First, make sure there's a room where your cats can access, but your puppy isn't allowed. This might be a bathroom, a bedroom, or even a closet, but it needs to be a hiding place the dog can't get into so the cats can feel safe there.

Make sure they have the essentials in that room, including a litter box, food and water, toys, and a scratching post. This ideally won't be a permanent arrangement, but you definitely need it as long as your animals aren't comfortable with each other yet.

It might also be a good idea to set up some high perches and shelves where your cat can retreat to and your puppy can't.

Cats also like high places, and they can provide a bit of sanctuary from a rambunctious and energetic puppy, as well as a place your cat can go to watch this new creature without having to fully hide.

And, of course, remember that you're going to have to supervise every interaction between your new puppy and your cats for at least the next few weeks, if not months, until you're sure they're on good terms with each other.

Start with a barrier.

Just like when you're introducing two cats to each other, introducing a puppy to cats means you're going to need to keep them separate. You can't just bring a new puppy into the house, let them run wild, and expect things to work out.

Generally, you will want to designate one room or space for your puppy to be their sanctuary room, just like your cats have one. This is where your puppy will be confined outside of times when you take them on walks, to the vet, and for puppy training.

This will likely last for at least 3-4 days, and more likely for a week, depending on how the animals react to knowing each other is there.

To help foster some faint interactions, feed them on opposite sides of the same door, where they can smell and hear each other but not interact with each other. This helps them get used to the presence of the other animal in small doses.

Train your puppy early.

Speaking of puppy training, you definitely want to be working on the basic commands ASAP. In particular, you need them to be able to obey commands like "sit," "stay," "come," and "leave it" so that you can control them when they're interacting with your cats.

If you notice your puppy is harassing your cats and your cats aren't enjoying it, you need to be able to separate them, and a command is the easiest way to do so.

Start face to face meetings.

Once your critters are more comfortable with one another on the other side of a door, you can start to let them meet face-to-face.

It's best to avoid using either one of their sanctuary rooms for this, though some people prefer to set up something like a baby gate to keep the dog in theirs while the cats can see them.

Another option is to put your puppy in a harness and on their leash, and hold them by you while you allow the cats to roam as they want.

They'll likely be skeptical and skittish, but when they realize the dog can't chase them down or go after them, they'll feel a bit better exploring and watching from a distance.

For your part, this is where you really want to have managed some level of obedience training. If you can keep your pupper calm at your side, despite their instincts to go say hi to the new friends, it helps keep the cats calmer and friendlier.

Generally, you want to keep these meetings pretty short. It also helps if you have a friend or family member who can help supervise the cats, as well.

Finally, you want to have treats for both creatures on hand. Treats will help keep your puppy calmer and distracted from staring at the cats, and treats for the cats can help teach them that they're safe to eat and enjoy space and time despite the puppy being there.

If either side exhibits aggression, make sure to redirect that aggression, usually with a treat or a toy. It's all part of animal training, using positive reinforcement to distract away from problematic behaviors and reinforce better behaviors.

Progress to more unfettered social time.

Once your cats and your dog are more comfortable with each other's presence in the same room, you can start letting your puppy off their leash and allowing the two to interact.

You want the leash still attached, so you can stop them if a problem occurs, but ideally that won't happen.

If all goes well, you can continue to perform these meetings for longer and longer amounts of time until there's no need to keep supervising them.

If there's a squabble or a problem, you'll need to dial back and spend a bit more time on socialization.

It's still a good idea to keep the fuzzy babies separated when you aren't there to supervise, at least until you're sure they get along, so no problems happen when you're not available to redirect.

Puppy and Cat Introduction FAQ

Let's wrap things up with some common questions you might have.

Why do cats and dogs not get along?

It's mostly a matter of body language, honestly! Cats and dogs have similar body shapes and similar actions, but they interpret those actions in almost completely opposite ways, so when a cat is signaling, "Don't come close, I don't want to deal with you," your puppy reads it as "Come play with me!" and when your puppy is staring at the new friend in excitement and playfulness, your cat reads it as aggressive and hunting behavior.

Once your furry friends are familiar with each other, they get to know how to deal with these things, but the socialization process takes time.

How long does it take to socialize a puppy with cats?

This can depend a lot on the personalities of both the puppy and the cats. Some cats don't care much and take to any new friend almost immediately.

Others are very standoffish and will be defensive for a long time. Expect at least a month or two of socialization before you can let them be, and possibly more.

One thing to be aware of is that if you have cats that were strays or have had bad experiences with dogs in the past, it's going to be even harder to socialize them.

It should be possible, just time-consuming, so know what you're getting into before you sign the paperwork to adopt the puppy. There's nothing worse for the puppy or the people than having to surrender a puppy back to a shelter when they don't fit in with your existing household.

Does the breed of the puppy matter?

A little, but not as much as you might think. Different dogs of the same breed can have very different personalities, after all.

Dogs with more of a prey drive will have a harder time with initial socialization, and dogs with high energy levels will be more difficult for a cat to get used to. Larger puppies can present more of a challenge to cats as well, though small breed dogs can be more defensive.

Every dog presents their own challenges, though, so don't assume a rigid schedule is going to work. Adapt to the interactions you see!

What should you watch out for?

The biggest is when one animal bullies the other. We usually think of dogs as the dominant in these relationships because they're larger, but cats can be aggressive enough to counteract that and harass the puppy into submission.

Unfortunately, this stresses out the puppy and can lead to them lashing out when they're larger, which can injure or even kill a cat. Definitely make sure you're an advocate and mediator for both sides so they can't build up this kind of relationship.

You should also make sure that you feed them properly, in ways that they can't steal each other's food. Defensiveness over food is one of the biggest causes of problems between cats and dogs, so make sure to mediate it.

Do you have any other questions that I didn't cover in this article? If so, be sure to let me know in the comments section! I'd be more than happy to help you out.

The theory is that dogs, as descendants of wolves, are social pack animals. This has a lot of repercussions in dog training, or so the theory goes.

I want to talk a little about this today, and give you some tips to help you keep your dogs well-trained and under control.

The Problem with Alpha Theory

First, I want to talk a bit about where this theory is coming from, and why we can safely disregard it.

The theory is that in a pack of wolves, the social group needs to be dominated by the strongest and most competitive, usually aggressive, wolf of the group.

Less aggressive, weaker wolves are dominated, and as long as this social order is maintained, the pack can exist in harmony.

This theory comes from a study produced by David Mech and Rudolph Schenkel several decades ago. Unfortunately, there are a bunch of reasons why we should ignore it, even though a lot of people today even still promote it.

First of all, it was a study of captive wolves in an environment where food, space, and other resources were limited. In nature, wolves don't stay in situations like that.

They'll break up a pack, or they'll move territories, or the resource scarcity will "thin the herd" until an equilibrium is maintained.

There's on need for a dominant "alpha" wolf in nature, because it's a reaction to constrained environments and what was essentially forced conflict.

Moreover, the original studies ignored a lot of other wolf behaviors. Wolf packs are often a lot more social, collaborative, and mutually beneficial than they're often portrayed.

They form complex bonds and social relationships based on kinship, mutual assistance, and cooperation for things like raising puppies, hunting, or defending a den.

While there may be an "alpha" wolf, it's not a firm position and is more like a project leader; one wolf takes up the mantle for whatever needs doing and cedes it to another when another task is at hand.

There were also some serious flaws in the original research. For example, you probably know that a dog rolling on their back and exposing their belly is a submissive behavior, showing vulnerability; the original study actually attributed this as a dominant behavior!

And, of course, there's one very important detail that needs to be acknowledged: dogs aren't wolves!

The behaviors and social dynamics of ferocious predators roaming the forests of the country are very different from the behaviors and social dynamics of our adorable little fur babies, who would have trouble intimidating a fly and only have to hunt for your location when it's dinner time.

In case you still want to hold onto it, it's also important to remember that Mech and Schenkel, the original researchers, have even admitted that they got things wrong and have tried to retract the alpha theory, though it persists in popular culture despite their efforts.

Why Alpha Theory Doesn't Work for Dog Training

The biggest issue with alpha theory isn't necessarily that it's based on old research that is inaccurate and discredited. It's that the things it asks you to do to train your dog are generally a bad idea.

For example, if you train a dog using alpha theory, the idea is that you're trying to position yourself as a dominant "alpha" in your pack of two. This means:

• Depriving your dog of things like pets, attention, or even food if they aren't obedient.
• Depriving your dog of stress relief like toys and taking them away if they try to guard their limited resources.
• Using physical punishment as a warning for violating the "rules."

Many, many studies into dog training and decades of evolution in training processes have firmly covered this ground.

Deprivation and punishment simply don't work. Deprivation doesn't work because your dog is generally fairly simple-minded and isn't going to attach the cause to the effect.

Punishment doesn't work because dogs aren't as avoidant as they are motivated, so all you really end up teaching them is that violence is okay.

Moreover, all of these "training" methods end up stressing out your dog, making them less social, making them more prone to lashing out, and hindering socialization and friendliness. They may be more appropriate for a guard dog, but they certainly aren't effective for a beloved family pet. You end up with a dog that doesn't trust you, only the threat you represent, and that's not what I advocate for here on Toe Beans.

Five Tips for Proper Dog Training

Instead of relying on punishment and dominance, which are proven to be ineffective and actively harmful to the relationship you have with your fur baby, what can you do instead?

Here are my five tips for appropriate dog training. If you want to know more, here are a few other resources you can read as well.

• The Ultimate Guide: Teaching 20 Essential Dog Commands
• The Beginner's Guide to Off-Leash Training for Dogs
• What is Dog Recall Training and How Do You Start?
• Dog Parenting 101

If you're ready to abandon the idea of the "alpha dog" and learn how to really form a social bond with your pup, read on.

#1: Use Positive Reinforcement

We tend to think of reward and punishment as two sides of a coin, but in terms of classical conditioning, they only represent half of the spectrum.

There are two factors you control: beneficial and non-beneficial stimulus and the addition or removal of that stimulus. In other words, adding a good thing, adding a bad thing, taking away a good thing, or taking away a bad thing.

• Positive Reinforcement is like giving a dog a treat when they do something good.
• Positive Punishment is like kicking at a dog when they do something bad.
• Negative Reinforcement is like turning off an annoying noise when a dog does something good.
• Negative Punishment is like stopping petting a dog when they do something bad.

While technically, all of these have the potential to work, three of the four really don't. Trying to add an aversive stimulus – that is, like trying to hit a bad dog – is abusive and ineffective.

Meanwhile, the removal of a stimulus, good or bad, isn't itself an action that a dog is going to interpret properly.

By far, the most effective way to train a dog, or any other animal for that matter, is by rewarding them when they do what you want.

What most people don't realize is that you can even train away behaviors you don't like with this method through consistent observation.

If you want your dog to not bark at noises outside, you don't punish them when they bark; you watch them, and if they're about to bark, you distract them and reward them for not barking.

When they realize that barking means nothing but not barking gets them a treat, they'll stop barking.

The best weapon in your arsenal for training a dog is a bag of high-value treats, like bits of sausage or cheese. It really doesn't take much!

#2: Consistency is Critical

The second most important thing about dog training is consistency.

Consistency in:

• Your expectations. If you want a dog to learn not to jump up on people, don't let them jump up on you even though you don't mind it. Likewise, don't encourage them to sit on the couch if you don't want them to jump up onto other furniture.
• Your enforcement. If you reward them some of the time when they do something but not other times, they might not learn correctly. You won't need to reward them every time they do something you want forever, just until they've fully learned the behavior.
• Your family. Until a dog is fully trained, you need to make sure everyone who interacts with them for any length of time understands the training. That way your dog isn't getting mixed signals.

All of this is true, regardless of whether you're trying to train a new puppy to come when you call, or train a show dog in a more advanced series of tricks or commands.

#3: Pick the Right Rewards

Most of the time with dog training, what you need is a high-value treat, but what works best for one dog might not be the best for another.

For example:

• Small cubes of cheese are great for some dogs but upset the tummies of others.
• Small bits of sausage are usually a good option.
• Some dogs don't need a high-value treat, and a kibble or two is good enough.
• Some dogs aren't very food motivated and respond better to praise, pets, or a quick play session.

The tricky part is if you get a dog that isn't food-motivated. It can be harder to find a specific toy or bit of praise you can use as a reward, distinct from normal interaction with your pup. Keep at it, though; there's always going to be something!

#4: Keep Training Sessions Short

Another important tip for dog training is to keep training sessions short. This isn't like cram school where you're teaching a whole certification program in a few weeks of long days; it's more like life experience, gathered over time.

Most experts, including the American Kennel Club, recommend keeping training sessions short.

For dedicated training sessions, where you're trying to teach a dog a specific command, keep the sessions to no more than five minutes.

Dogs don't have very long attention spans, so the longer the session is, the more likely they are to get distracted, and that's when the chance for learning is over.

A lot of training isn't something you do in dedicated training sessions, though. It's something you address when you see it to sculpt behavior over time.

You aren't really doing dedicated sessions here; instead, everything is done as you see it. That's why it's important to keep the relevant treat on hand, at least until they age out of needing treats for training.

#5: Don't Bite Off More Than You Can Chew

One of the biggest stumbling blocks with dog training is trying to train too much, too fast. Puppies are fast learners, but you still need to start slow and train in the basic behaviors, especially if you want to get into more advanced training.

Think about those dog agility courses where an energetic pup runs through tunnels, in between poles, and over jumps.

That's not one course of training! Each of those obstacles is trained separately and built up into whole routines over time.

The same goes for any other dog training, even if all you're training is "come," "sit," and "fetch." The more you want them to learn, the longer it takes, and the more you should focus on a narrow set of commands before building into others.

Dog Training Tips FAQ

Let's wrap things up with a round-up of some common questions about being "the alpha" and dog training in general.

Is the alpha dominance training method effective?

Absolutely not. In fact, if you're trying to play for dominance, you're likely stressing out your dog and making them afraid of you, which makes them more likely to run, be defensive, snap at you, or turn mean.

Many poor dogs have even been put down because of this "uncontrollable" behavior, which is just a natural reaction to what amounts to abuse.

What should you avoid with dog training?

Dogs aren't very good at understanding the concept of punishment or negative reinforcement. If you're doing something negative to encourage or discourage certain behaviors, chances are it isn't going to work very well.

The only exception is something like taking away a toy when they get too rough with it. Most of the time, instead, you should redirect their behavior and reward them with a treat when they leave what they were doing behind.

How long does dog training take?

Good dog training is a lifelong commitment. But, training individual behaviors and tricks doesn't have to take more than a few weeks of dedicated effort. On the other hand, ongoing behaviors like night barking may take longer just because you can only train them when they would happen.

Do you have any other questions? If so, let me know in the comments!

Cats are also a lot like children in that one of their favorite ways to play with each other tends to be some form of roughhousing. While you can discipline children and tell them to get along, it's a lot harder with cats.

On top of that, it's a lot harder to tell whether or not cats are just roughhousing or if they're legitimately fighting with one another.

They make scary noises, swat at each other, and hold intense stare-downs, and it can look a lot like a fight if you don't know what you're seeing.

So, are your cats playing with each other, or are they fighting? Let's talk about it.

Are Your Cats Fighting?

The simple answer is that most of the time, your cats are playing.

This is especially true if they're littermates or long-time housemates; that is, cats who are familiar with each other.

Fighting is more likely if you're introducing cats to each other for the first time or just relatively recently.

They can scuffle with each other if they aren't comfortable with each other, if one of them is fiercely territorial, or if they're still trying to sort out territories within the household.

It's important to keep this in mind, too, since you may need to invest in a second feeding station, bed, and litter box if one cat is bullying another out of theirs.

If your cat is encountering a visitor cat – through a window, or when they're both outside, or if a friend brought their feline over – then there may be some fighting, too.

A lot of this tends to depend on the temperament of the cats involved and how they view territory. Some of the more territorial cats will fight off any other cat that comes into their zone, while others might be okay with pretty much anything.

What Are the Signs that Cats Are Fighting?

If two cats are fighting, what should you look for? Here are the signs to keep in mind.

Claws out. Cats that are fighting are likely to have their claws out and visible and will be more likely to swat, strike, bat, and swipe at one another.

This is an escalation, though! Keep in mind that cats really don't like physical confrontation. They'll do a lot of posturing and vocalizing before they get physical and will only resort to violence if an interloper is aggressing on them.

Cats may be incredible hunters, but they hate confrontations they aren't in command of. In the wild, a fight can lead to debilitating injury, infection, or even death in extreme cases.

The repercussions are less severe with cats we can just take to the vet, but you still don't want to let them fight if you can avoid it.

Posturing. In a cat fight, the cats will tend to be very tense and stiff. They'll do a lot more staring down each other and making a lot of noises rather than physical aggression.

Often, they will be standing sideways as a way to show how big they are and dissuade the other animal from coming after them.

If one cat is a clear aggressor and the other is defensive, the aggressor will tend to be larger and calmer, while the defender will be crouched, ears back, and more submissive, or at least ready to flee if they can.

Fur and tail. A cat in a legitimate fight is going to fluff up their fur and tail, again, as a way to make themselves look bigger.

Wild animals (and animals like our feline friends who are closely descended from wild animals) don't want to get into confrontations if they can avoid it for all the reasons I already listed.

One of the more reliable signs that an animal isn't something to fight is when they're larger, so cats fluff themselves up. They'll usually point their tails straight up, though they may be nervously lashing it side to side as well.

Facial expressions. Cats that are fighting are going to express it in their body language, and their facial expressions are a key part of that body language.

• Their eyes will be wide open with dilated pupils, keenly attuned to even the slightest twitch from the other feline. They'll have locked eye contact and may take any deviation or distraction as cause to attack in a moment of weakness. Incidentally, this is why the "slow blink" is a sign of comfort and familiarity from a cat and why staring at them is less likely to get them to come to you.
• Their ears will generally be laid back or flattened against the sides of their head. This serves two purposes. The first is that it's not a usual position for cat ears, so it can be a sign of "no really, this is serious" to the other cat. You can see this in flashes if, during play, one cat accidentally hurts the other. It's also defensive; since ears are vulnerable to catching a stray claw, flattening them down helps reduce the risk of injury.
• Their whiskers will be spread out and forward. This can be harder to see on some cats, but it serves as another way to react very quickly to incoming attack or aggression.
• Their mouths will likely be open and baring teeth, especially during the vocalizations.

Unless you're totally inexperienced with cats, you'll be able to tell pretty quickly when a cat is being legitimately aggressive because, most of the time, these won't be the kinds of expressions they'll have when they're around you.

The exception is if you're used to dealing with feral cats, in which case you'll be experienced enough to know what's going on.

Vocalizations. Cats that are in a stand-off especially are going to be making some very distressing noises at one another. They'll be growling in that low, moaning way that cats growl (it's not at all like a dog growl), and they'll hiss at one another.

There's no meowing here. If you've never heard a cat's "fightin' words" before, they can feel primally dangerous, even coming from something as small as a housecat.

Are Your Cats Playing?

Most of the time, if your cats are tussling with one another, they're playing. Even when that playing seems to get strangely violent, and the noises they make sound distressing, it's nowhere near what a real cat fight is like.

The truth is, cat playing can often feel a lot like fighting just because, in a way, it is fighting. Cats play-fight with each other as a way to "train" for fighting, to get used to physicality, and, yes, to establish some kind of pecking order.

Kittens tend to be a lot more "socially playful" when they're young. The older a cat gets, the less likely they are to engage in play with each other in the same way; instead, they'll be more focused on playing with toys and other objects.

This does vary from cat to cat, though; some are more socially playful well into their adult years or even into old age. This can be especially true with littermates who consistently play with each other, as well as when a cat parent is teaching her kittens how to be playful and where the limits are on violence.

What Are the Signs that Cats Are Playing?

Cats that are play fighting will be a lot more physically active, for a longer period of time, than if they were fighting. Again, cats don't like to fight if they can avoid it because injuries are serious business. Playing, though, they'll do that all day if they feel like it.

One of the key factors in play fighting is activity. Cats that are playing with each other will be a lot more active; they'll stalk one another, pounce, tussle, and flee, and repeat the process.

They wrestle, play bite at each other, swipe and bat at each other with their claws pulled back so they're not risking doing any damage, and can even roll around and expose their bellies.

Often, cats that are play fighting will take turns being the aggressor. One pounces on the other, they tussle and separate, then the other one does the pouncing.

Critically, they aren't going to be engaged in a tense stand-off. There's no sideways posture, no hair standing on end, no deep staring and growling.

In fact, cat vocalizations while they're playing are going to be fairly minimal. They might make little grunts and whines, but they won't growl or hiss. Sometimes, the only noises they make are those brief whines if their playmate goes a little too hard.

Other signs, like ear posture, will be brighter and happier. They won't be laid back or flat as in a real fight.

When it comes right down to it, you can usually assume that cats are playing with each other unless there's some very serious posturing and growling going on, or they draw blood, or there's another reason why they'd be aggressive toward one another.

Cats: Fighting or Playing FAQ

Now, let's go through a few common questions I know you're dying to ask.

Why do cats fight with each other?

Play fighting is socialization, but real fighting is much more serious. As such, the reasons behind those fights tend to be more serious as well.

They can include things like:

• Feral cats that aren't used to one another being forced together.
• Cats being introduced to each other for the first time, especially if one or both aren't well-socialized.
• Resource scarcity. Not necessarily even now, but if a cat has had to fight to defend a meal in the past, they'll be a lot more defensive of their resources.
• Territorial defense. Cats like to have a space that is "theirs," and if another cat, especially one they don't know, encroaches on that territory, a fight can ensue.

There are also some more obvious reasons, like a mother cat protecting her kittens when they're very young and defenseless. Sometimes cats can also get aggressive if they're sick, usually from something like a UTI.

Should you stop cats from fighting?

If you see two cats that are poised to fight (rather than play), you might want to intervene to keep them both safe and defuse the situation. You can do this, but only if you do it safely.

Do not intervene by stepping between them, putting a hand between them, or trying to grab at them. That can get you attacked, and then you're in for a trip to the ER to get some stitches and some shots.

Instead:

• Try a positive distraction. Cracking open a can of tuna, rustling a bag of treats, or flipping a toy around nearby might distract one or both cats and defuse the situation.
• Make a noise a bit away. Something like a ping-pong ball bouncing nearby, clapping from a distance away, or otherwise distracting them might work.
• Sliding a barrier between them, such as a wall of cardboard, can break their stare-down and get them to back off.

On the other hand, try not to resort to something like a spray bottle, a loud close noise like a can of coins, a clap right behind one of them, or trying to startle them. These can disrupt a fight, but they're stressful for the cats and can make it even harder to socialize them later.

Can you get cats to stop fighting each other?

Sometimes! One of the more common causes of aggression is introducing two cats to each other, and you can definitely socialize two cats through indirect introductions to build familiarity before letting them interact.

On the other hand, an older, poorly socialized, feral cat is going to be a lot harder to break from their habits.

Sometimes, cats just don't want to be in a place with other cats, and there's not much you can do about it but acquiesce to their wishes. Don't try to force it if you're just going to end up with accidents, injuries, and stressed felines.

Do you have any other questions about fighting or playing in cats? Let me know!

Since they don't have hands, their mouths are their primary way to interact with objects. That's why they chew things, lick things, bite things, mouth things, and generally put things in their mouths.

This isn't a learned behavior. Puppies, from the moment they open their eyes and can start moving through the world, will start to bite and nibble on things.

Whether it's a plush toy you give them, a disc or ball you use to play fetch, or a cool stick they found, they're going to use their mouths to figure out what it is, carry it around, and possibly even give it to you, whether you want it or not.

Of course, having a puppy that chews on everything isn't necessarily a good thing. It's one thing if they chew on a toy meant for chewing. It's quite another if they're chewing on your kid's homework, or your shoes, or the cables to your computer.

There are a lot of things in the world that, when chewed apart, can be harmful. Sometimes, that harm is to you and your life; sometimes, it's to your puppy, who can accidentally swallow things they shouldn't or get objects lodged in their throats.

Naturally, you want to know how to train your puppy not to chew on things. But can you really do so, and is it ethical to do so? After all, in a sense, it would be like training a child not to touch things with their hands. Is that kind of behavior even possible?

Let's talk about puppy biting and chewing, what's normal, what isn't normal, and how you can manage it.

Why Puppies Mouth, Chew, and Bite

Biting behaviors from puppies start early. In fact, even before they're old enough to open their eyes, they feel around with their paws and their mouths. That's part of how they find their mothers, so they can eat, after all.

As they get old enough to explore and interact with you and the rest of the world, biting will be one of their main behaviors. This serves two purposes.

The first is that they're telling you they want to play. Play biting is usually soft – they aren't trying to attack you, naturally – but puppies often don't know their own strength or how sharp their tiny little teeth are.

This plays into the second reason, too. Puppies bite and nibble and chew and mouth things, including your hands, because they're still figuring out how their mouths work.

If they bite hard enough to break the skin and hurt, you need to react appropriately because that's how they learn how much force is too much force.

There's also the fact that they are, very likely, teething. This is painful for children and puppies! When teeth grow in, they have to work their way out through the gums, and that leaves the gums swollen, tender, and painful.

Teething by chewing on things helps relieve that feeling, even temporarily. It's why we give teething toys to our children, and it's why we should do the same thing for puppies.

What Biting and Chewing is Normal?

Puppies will bite, chew, and nibble just about everything, just about all the time, when they're very young.

When they're under two months old, they won't be biting as much, just because they're barely active creatures at that point. As they get older and explore and learn about the world, the biting and chewing ramp up into high gear.

It's best to think of this as a phase. As they get more experience with the world, they'll start to learn that they shouldn't be biting and chewing on everything.

Their teeth will have come in, and they won't need to teethe to alleviate the mouth pain. They'll have learned that some things are hard, some things are soft, and some taste really bad, and they'll associate the sights and scents with the tastes and the feelings.

By the time a puppy is 5-6 months of age, they'll be doing a lot less biting and chewing. They'll still probably chomp on things a little too hard from time to time (especially if they're an energetic working breed), but they'll be more selective about it.

What triggers a puppy to bite and mouth?

So far, I've mostly said that biting is a natural behavior, and that's entirely true. At the same time, there may be some triggers that make your puppy more likely to bite and chew on certain things.

Think about:

• Are there big, fluffy objects your puppy will find very compelling to bite? Dressing gowns, fluffy slippers, housecoat ties, curtains, puffy jackets; these are often similar to the objects you allow a puppy to chew on, and sometimes can even be infused with delicious (to them) scents and flavors.
• Are they nervous and use biting and chewing as a coping mechanism? Often, you can identify sources of stress and remove them, or just put more time into tiring them out so they don't have the energy to chew.
• Are they teething? If they're usually chewing on objects that are stiffer and more resilient, they may be trying to soothe their gums. There's not much you can do to stop this, but it doesn't last too long as a phase.

Regular exercise, regular rest, and regular meals all help as well. Heck, sometimes your puppy chews just because they're hungry and want to eat, but they don't know how to otherwise express it.

Can You Prevent Puppy Biting?

No, not really. It would be like telling you not to move your tongue. Not only is it an unconscious and entirely necessary behavior, it's essentially impossible if you want to live and enjoy living.

That's not to say you can't manage puppy biting, though.

The goal isn't a complete restriction on the behavior. Rather, it's to redirect it away from things they shouldn't chew, to teach them that some things are bad to bite, and to teach them self-control.

The official name for this, by the way, is " bite inhibition training." You basically just want to teach them to think twice before biting something.

How to Train Bite Inhibition in Puppies

Training starts early, and there's a lot you can do to help train a puppy not to bite on things they shouldn't.

If your puppy has other puppies to socialize with, they naturally learn some bite moderation.

When they play, they bite at each other, and when they accidentally bite too hard, the negative reaction of their playmate teaches them that it was too strong of a bite.

If they don't have a playmate, then you have to work on that yourself.

This is where things get tricky. Advice differs, and different authoritative sources (the ASPCA, the American Kennel Club, and others) have different advice!

For example, some people say you shouldn't play with a puppy with your hands. If you do, you're basically teaching them that it's okay to play with people by biting at their hands, and once they're older, that can get them in a lot of trouble.

On the other hand, other sources claim playing with your hands is the best option. That way, if they bite too hard, you can yelp and scold them, which teaches them they went too far, just like if they were playing with another puppy.

However, still other sources say you shouldn't do the yelp and scold because sometimes that kind of reaction has the opposite effect.

Some puppies realize they did something bad and stop, but others might find the noise encouraging, and you really don't want to teach them that people make funny noises when they're nibbled!

Navigating tricky training.

So, what's the truth?

The truth is, it varies by dog and by age.

The older a dog is, the less you want to play with them with your hands directly. When they're very young, you can play with your hands and use feedback if they go too far.

Over time, start to replace your hands with toys like tugging ropes or plush toys. These can take more abuse and are better for your dog to chew on.

Should you yelp or not? That depends on the dog as well. If you try it and they just get more excited, it's obviously not going to work, so you need to stop.

On the other hand, if it makes them back off and cuddle or lick at you instead, then it's an effective way to help train them to be more controlled in their nibbling.

Playtime is over.

The biggest thing you need to do, regardless of how you play or whether or not you yelp, is to reinforce that if they go too far, playtime ends.

While scolding them verbally can be a deterrent, if you keep playing with them afterward, it's not a very strong deterrent.

On the other hand, if you stop playing altogether – or even put them in another room for a time out – it teaches them in no uncertain terms that there are lines they cannot cross.

Redirecting behaviors.

As your puppy gets old enough to stop teething and return to just biting and nibbling as a way to play and interact with objects, you can start redirection training.

When you're playing with your pooch, and they start chewing at your hands, it's best to have something like a stuffed toy on hand to replace your hand and get them to chew on that instead.

What Not to Do

When trying to train your puppy to be more regulated with their chewing and biting, there are some things you should avoid.

Don't roughhouse and encourage biting. Yes, flipping a puppy over and scratching their belly while they try to nibble at you is adorable, but it also encourages them to go overboard and bite when they don't even really want to. Be careful with any over-play that encourages biting, especially if it's something that "traps" your puppy.

Don't use physical deterrents. There are distressingly many people who still feel like the best way to stop a behavior is a bop on the nose, but that kind of physical reaction doesn't actually work when training animals like dogs. There's no way to be light enough to not hurt them and still act as a deterrent, and being hard enough to hurt is abuse.

Don't just blindly follow advice from the internet. Every puppy is different and will respond differently to different actions and reactions. If your puppy immediately understands that a yelp is crossing a line, then yelp. If walking away and ending playtime makes them think that it becomes a game of chase – or their unsupervised time is a chance to chew on something else – don't use time-out as a solution.

The goal really just comes down to finding what works best for your pupper and using those options. Just remember to take it slow; a brand-new puppy isn't going to be well-disciplined and well-behaved right away.

Puppy Biting FAQ

What are some of the biggest questions about puppy biting and how to stop it? Let's look.

How much biting is normal?

Puppy biting is pretty much the only thing they can do for several months of their puppyhood. If they're biting a lot and they're under six months old, it's perfectly normal. If they're reaching a year old and are still biting and chewing on everything, then you have some work to do.

Do bitter sprays work?

There are some sprays you can use on objects like furniture that taste awful, so if your puppy tries to chew on it, they get a mouthful of unpleasantness. These can work as long as they're refreshed enough to stay effective. Just don't make sure to spray too much that they end up stressed out because of it.

Can you train a puppy to stop biting entirely?

No, and you really shouldn't try. No matter what, your dog needs to be able to use their mouth to interact with the world around them, and if you're trying to stop it entirely, it's never going to happen.

What's the most important part of puppy training?

Positive reinforcement! When training a puppy not to bite, it's not about discouraging the biting; it's about rewarding the times they don't bite. This can be tricky to identify, but the rewards don't need to be big, either; just a little praise can go a long way.

Do you have any other questions? If so, ask me in the comments! I'd love to help.

You might not know what it is, why it's done, or how it works, though. So, let's talk about it! There's a lot to know and a few myths I want to dispel, so I've got a lot to say.

What is Ear Tipping?

Ear tipping is the polite way of saying, "cutting off the tip of the ear of a cat."

It's used as a way to identify certain kinds of cats and to facilitate dealing with community cats and ferals that aren't otherwise going to be adopted or taken in.

Why Are Some Cats Ear-Tipped?

Ear tipping is a signal. It's a visible sign that a cat has been trapped, spayed or neutered, vaccinated, and released.

The unfortunate reality of life is that there are a lot more cats out there in the world than there are parents to love them.

Shelters are routinely full, people looking to adopt have more options than they could hope for, and those cats do what all animals in nature do: produce more cats.

In order to control the population of feral and community cats, many cities across the country and around the world have set up TNR programs. TNR stands for Trap, Neuter, Release (and some versions add in V for Vaccinate), and that's exactly what they do.

They set up traps where they know feral cats are taking shelter, usually baited with food. When the cat gets trapped, they're brought to a vet.

The vet will examine them, check them for diseases or injuries, and give them treatment as necessary. If they're in otherwise good health, they'll be vaccinated.

Then, the cat will be anesthetized and fixed. Whether it's a spay or a neuter, it helps control the number of feral cats trying to survive in a neighborhood.

The more ferals there are in a cat colony, the harder it is for them all to survive; food and water are harder to come by, fights can cause injuries and infections that lead to death, and diseases can spread more easily.

TNR programs help cut down both on the common causes of death for feral cats and on the number of feral cats trying and struggling to survive.

Keep in mind that this is mostly done with true ferals. Stray cats are generally a lot friendlier and can be rescued and adopted, while feral cats are very scared, standoffish, and a lot harder to even get close to, let alone interact with.

Most people don't have the time, inclination, or attitude necessary to try to socialize a feral cat, so they're usually left more to their own devices.

Back to ear tipping. When a cat is a participant in a TNR program, there needs to be some way to identify them.

After all, you don't want to waste resources bringing the same cat to the vet multiple times to get them looked after, right? It's better to spend those resources on more cats.

Since there aren't really any good ways to leave a permanent mark on a cat that is visible from a distance and can't be removed (so, no collars, no dyes, nothing like that), ear tipping is the best solution we have. I'll talk a bit more about alternatives and why we chose ear tipping later on in this post.

What Are the Benefits of Ear Tipping?

Ear tipping has two main benefits.

Ear-Tipping Benefit #1

The first is for TNR programs, animal control officers, well-meaning people, and vets. Tipping the ear of a cat is a visible indicator that the cat has been through a TNR process.

If the cat is spotted and called in later, and a professional investigates, they can find that the cat has been tipped.

There still might be valuable reasons to capture the cat. A feral that is preying on local chickens or other small livestock, for example, might need to be relocated so they aren't disruptive.

A feral that is getting into fights with local cats and other animals, too, might be up for relocation.

But, if the only concern is that the cat might be stray or feral and need attention, that's not much of a problem. Ear tipping tells you everything you need to know; the cat is already treated and isn't going to be any more of a problem than a single cat on their own can be.

Ear-Tipping Benefit #2

The second benefit is for the cat.

Being trapped, brought into a vet, and possibly anesthetized can all be very stressful for any animal.

For well-socialized pets and the occasional stray, it's a little easier to deal with. For a feral, which is likely already very fearful and distrustful of people, it's an immensely stressful time.

Anesthesia also can be very stressful and even potentially dangerous for an animal. So, the less a cat has to go through that process, the better.

Ear tipping is a visible way to prevent picking up and stressing out the same cat over and over. It's simple, easy, and useful.

Are There Drawbacks to Ear Tipping?

While the benefits are clear, are there any drawbacks to ear tipping?

Truthfully, not really. The only real drawback is that some people don't like the look of a cat with asymmetrical ears, but really, that's not a problem.

The cats getting ear-tipped are usually afraid enough of people that you're not going to interact with them very much, so it doesn't really matter what they look like.

Some people are afraid that ear tipping is painful, disfiguring, or changes the personality of a cat.

Fortunately, nothing can be further from the truth. Most cats don't really notice or care that they've been ear-tipped. They don't really have the same kind of self-image that people do, and a cosmetic change like an ear tip is just a tiny change to adapt to.

Does Ear Tipping Hurt?

Yes and no.

Technically, ear tipping hurts. Any damage to the flesh triggers pain receptors, and that means pain.

But honestly? It's no different than getting an ear pierced at your local mall's Claire's. The ear is fairly light on pain receptors and nerves, especially in cats, where it's one of the more injury-prone parts of a cat. Catfights can leave ears damaged, after all.

More importantly, though, cats are never ear-tipped while they're awake. Since they're being anesthetized for the spay or neuter surgery, the ear tipping is done at the same time.

The cat won't feel a thing when their ear is tipped. For real, the recovery from the surgery is going to be more painful than the ear tipping, and even that is relatively minor. Cats can spring back pretty easily from a lot of injuries.

So, while it's technically true that ear tipping would cause pain, the cat in question isn't going to be awake for it, and it will heal quickly enough that they'll never feel it.

Are Cats Bothered by Ear Tipping?

Not at all.

Have you ever seen one of those videos of a cat with paralyzed back legs just dragging them around, or one missing a front leg that has no trouble running and playing, or a cat with no eyes that can still explore, jump onto furniture, and enjoy a good scritch? An ear tip is nothing compared to those, and cats can adapt to those life-changing injuries in no time.

It's kind of questionable whether or not a cat even notices that they've been ear-tipped. Yeah, the tip of their ear is missing, but it's not like that tip is used for much of anything.

Enough of the ear is still there that they can do all of their ear-based body language just fine. They don't have self-esteem that would be bothered by it, and they aren't exactly looking themselves over in the mirror before they go about their day.

Does Ear Tipping Affect Hearing?

Cats can go deaf, but there's no evidence to suggest that cat hearing is affected by ear tipping.

Maybe there's a tiny loss of acuity for very precise hearing, but it really doesn't seem likely. No real formal studies have been done, but it's not going to cause hearing loss, make them more susceptible to infections, or anything like that.

Ear-tipped cats still live long and full lives just as much as any other community cat, and ear-tipping doesn't impact that quality of life.

In fact, ear-tipped cats live better lives because of the vaccinations and medical care they're given; they're less prone to illness and disease that can cause long-term issues.

Is Ear Tipping an Infection Risk?

Only very slightly. Any injury, no matter how small, is a potential vector for infection. Even flea bites can cause an infection.

Ear tipping is a very small, superficial injury, though, and it's always healed before the cat is released back into the wild.

The chances of a cat being tangibly harmed from an ear-tipping procedure are pretty much zero.

What Should You Do if You Find an Ear-Tipped Cat?

What do you want to do?

I like to say hi, make a few pspspspsps noises, maybe refill their food or water dishes while I'm at it.

They don't usually pay much attention to me, and stay pretty wary and distant, so I'm not going to get any good headbutts or kneading going.

Ear tipping is almost always done for feral cats, and feral cats usually want pretty much nothing to do with you.

You'll only even notice that they're tipped if you're paying attention and know what to look for.

The exception, of course, is if the cat is in obvious distress. If they've been injured in a fight or hit by a car, if they're clearly sick and weak or emaciated, or if they're otherwise in a bad way, you can try to trap them and bring them to a vet for treatment.

For normal, healthy community cats that have been ear-tipped, just interact with them as you would any other cat.

There's not much else you can do. Just be cautious; don't try to push their boundaries, or you risk being swiped at and clawed up.

Should You Tip Your Cat's Ears?

No.

Ear tipping is, again, an indication of ferals and stray community cats. It's not something you do to your beloved pets and feline companions.

If you've seen someone who has a pet cat and that cat has a tipped ear, it's more likely that they adopted and socialized a feral cat than that they tipped the ear of a cat they adopted otherwise.

Are There Alternatives to Ear Tipping?

There are a few.

One is ear-notching. Ear tipping involves cutting off the top quarter inch of the cat's ear so it's visibly different than a whole ear.

Ear notching is smaller and is more like a little V cut out of the ear. Notching was also common, but it's hard to tell between a notched ear and a cat that had their ear clawed or bitten in a fight, so it's less reliable as an indicator.

It's also harder to see from a distance, so skittish cats might be trapped more often because of it.

Some people use things like chips to identify feral cats, but these also don't provide the same kinds of benefits.

A chip needs to be scanned, which means the cat needs to be trapped, and then you've already wasted the time and effort, removing the benefit of tipping.

In some areas, tags are used. Tags are visible, but they're bulky and can disrupt a cat's life more than a tipping.

They can also get caught on things or get snagged in a catfight and can be ripped out, causing pain, a possible infection risk, and removing the identification. They aren't very good.

Pretty much any method of identifying a feral that has been through TNR is less effective or less beneficial than ear tipping, which is why we use it. Until something better comes along, it's what we've got.

Want to know anything else about ear tipping? Have a question I didn't answer? If so, let me know!

If your canine companion is wetting the bed, you want to stop it, but how? Here are the top dozen tips I've gathered from my many years as a pet parent, along with some common questions at the end.

Tip #1: Take Them to the Vet

If your fur baby is peeing where they shouldn't and there's no obvious reason why, like a huge sudden change in lifestyle or schedule like the addition of a new baby to the family, then there's a pretty good chance there's a health problem going on.

A lot of different health issues can cause potty issues in dogs. The most common is a urinary tract infection or UTI. These very frequently cause accidents, but fortunately, they're easy to test for and easy to solve with some antibiotics.

Other kidney and urinary tract problems can also cause bedwetting in dogs. These can include kidney disease, kidney and bladder stones, cystitis (which is an inflammation of the bladder), and tumors in the bladder and surrounding area. Diabetes is also a common cause of bladder problems later in life, so if your dog is getting older, that could be a possibility.

All of these can be evaluated and diagnosed by a vet, so make sure to bring them in ASAP if they start having bladder control issues.

Tip #2: Make Time for Potty Breaks

Sometimes, potty accidents are caused by a dog really needing to go and not being able to. If you notice their accidents tend to happen when you're at work for a long day, and it seems fresh enough to have happened relatively recently before you get home, it's possible that they'd just done the deed because they couldn't hold it any longer.

The best solution to this is to make sure you're available to take them out when they need to go. Especially for younger or senior dogs, that might be every couple of hours. You may need to make sure you can take routine breaks from work to get home and take them out or have a friend or family member who can do it for you if you aren't able to (or if you work too far away for it to be feasible.) If all else fails, a trustworthy dog walking service might be the way to go.

Tip #3: Reduce Excitement for Younger Dogs

Puppies and younger dogs, especially those still going through their potty training, might be prone to letting a little urine go when they're really excited. A lot of the time, this is going to be when you're playing with them, taking them to a park, or taking them somewhere new and fun. Unfortunately, sometimes it's just because they hear a fun noise or they're bored and want to make their own fun. If that's the case, and they end up having that fun on your bed, well, that's where they dribble.

You might want to consider taking some steps to reduce the ambient levels of excitement your pooch can experience when you aren't around. It's not super likely that this is the cause of issues on your bed specifically, but it might be, so it's worth considering.

Tip #4: Reduce Fear and Stress in Older Dogs

Letting go of some urine is also a sort of defensive mechanism and natural reaction to fear, anxiety, and stress. Older dogs, especially dogs that are well-trained, might respond with stress-peeing if they're shocked, afraid, or stressed.

There are a bunch of different ways this can crop up, and a lot depends on the dog. Something like moving house can cause it, for example, so they might take to someplace they're comfortable (like your bed, saturated with your scent) and end up cuddling in fear. Loud and unexpected noises can trigger it as well, like nearby construction or fireworks.

Anything you can do to reduce their ongoing stress, fear, and anxiety is generally a good thing. This is also helpful to prevent things like night barking and other behavioral issues.

Tip #5: Check for Signs of Submission

Urinating is also a bit of a submissive behavior. This might occur if your dog is afraid, particularly if they're afraid of you and you scolding or punishing them. Even if you particularly don't do that, if your dog was formerly under someone else's parentage and they weren't treated as well, those habits might have been developed against your best interests.

What might happen then is that your pooch does something they know they shouldn't, or even just is scared by the aforementioned stress and anxiety. Then they either go to you to be submissive, or they go somewhere they know you would be and leave "proof" behind. It's sad to see but the only good way to handle it is to reduce the reasons why they might be submissive, and try to train them out of the behavior.

Tip #6: Change and Clean the Sheets

We all know that dogs have a very keen sense of smell. Urine carries unique scents that are sort of like a smell-based fingerprint for a dog. Dogs can tell not just that another dog left urine in a spot; they can tell which dog did it. They also can tell when they've marked a space, and they will frequently go back and check it out, possibly re-marking if they feel the need to.

Unfortunately, this means that just tossing your sheets in the wash might not be thorough enough to remove all of the little enzymes that soak into the fabric. It's even harder when it comes to the mattress. You'll want to use a stronger detergent and possibly an enzymatic cleaner that can break down those scent compounds more effectively than just soap and water.

Tip #7: Deep Clean the Mattress

Similar to the above, you need to deep clean your mattress to get rid of the scent so your pooch doesn't come back to repeat their accident. Mattresses are harder to clean, unfortunately, so you'll need to get really deep with your cleaning, clean multiple times, and keep your dog away from the bed and bedroom entirely for quite a while as you do it.

I would also recommend getting a mattress cover that isolates the mattress from the bedsheets so that if they do repeat, it can't soak back into the mattress itself and will be easier to clean. It's still a pain, but less of one.

Tip #8: Consider Replacing the Mattress

If you can't successfully clean your mattress well enough to stop your dog from doing the deed, you might consider replacing the mattress. Be careful if you decide to do so, though. You don't want your dog to immediately soil the new one because you put old sheets on.

Usually, you might need to make sure they can't be in the bedroom at all, and that means no sleeping with you at night either. It's sad, especially if you're used to it, but it's probably better for both behavior and health.

Tip #9: Train Away Territorial Marking

If your fur baby is marking their territory, you need to train the behavior away. First, though, how can you tell the difference?

Territorial marking is usually a relatively small amount of urine, enough to smell but not enough to soak the area. They tend to mark new objects, so they might go some time in between "accidents" while the scent lingers in their sensitive noses and then re-mark when it fades. If you have more than one dog, it can also trigger another to either avoid the area or counter-mark, causing more problems.

Cleaning is the same, but training can be tricky. You may need to work on "leave it" commands, and watch them to catch it in action so you can stop and redirect the behavior. If you can't watch them that closely, your only option might be crate training instead.

Tip #10: Get Rid of Pee Pads

Puppy pads can be useful when a puppy is too young to control themselves, but as they get older, it just teaches them that there are soft objects they're allowed to pee on, and to a dog, your sheets or pillows might look a whole lot like pads.

Wean them off of the pads as soon as you can and teach them that it's never okay to go in the house.

Tip #11: Keep Your Door Closed

If your dog is marking or having accidents on the bed, but they don't anywhere else, just keep them off the bed and out of the bedroom. There's not a whole lot more to it than that, right?

You might have to deal with them whining and begging outside the door, and you won't be able to let them sleep with you, but that's better than having to clean your mattress and sheets every other day when they can't hold it in.

Tip #12: Be Kind to Doggy Dementia

I put this one at the end because it's kind of sad. Incontinence is an issue that starts to crop up in elderly dogs when they start to develop "doggy dementia" and either forget their training or just aren't able to control themselves.

There's no amount of added training, scolding, or behavioral redirection you can do to solve this. It just means your companion is nearing the end of their life, and you need to do what you can to make it comfortable for them. They can't help it, but don't hold it against them.

Common Questions: Dogs Peeing on the Bed FAQ

Now, let's wrap things up with answers to some of the more common questions I see when we're talking about dogs going where they shouldn't.

What health issues can cause bed wetting in dogs?

Dogs, unless they're poorly trained or not trained at all, generally have pretty good control over their bladders. They aren't going to widdle just anywhere. That means there's potentially something wrong, and you'll need to check it out.

Talk to your vet to check for and rule out:

• Urinary tract infections.
• Cystitis, an inflammation of the bladder.
• Bladder and kidney stones.
• Kidney disease.
• Diabetes.
• Urinary tumors.
• Cushing's Disease

Any of these can lead to accidents, and in fact, accidents can be one of the first signs for some of them. Mostly, they can be cleared up with the right medical care.

What behavioral issues can cause bed wetting in dogs?

A well-trained and housebroken dog isn't going to go on your bed, but they can do so if they have behavioral problems.

These can include:

• Poor or incomplete training.
• Poor bowel control when excited.
• Poor bowel control when fearful or anxious.
• Territorial marking habits.
• Submissive behaviors.

These can usually be trained out of your fur baby, but it will require dedicated effort and attention, especially if they're already aged out of being a puppy.

Will I need to replace my bed if my dog is peeing on it?

When dogs pee somewhere, among other things, they're leaving scent markings in that space. This is important for territorial marking even when that's not their original intent. Unfortunately, dogs are prone to returning to the "scene of the crime" and becoming repeat offenders if they still smell lingering scents.

Sometimes, you can clean your bed well enough to eliminate all lingering scents. Other times, no matter how deep you clean, some of those little doggy enzymes will linger. In these cases, you might consider replacing your mattress since there's no real way to clean it more deeply. Just in case, a protective, waterproof cover on a new mattress is a great help.

So, it's not required, but in some situations, it might be helpful. Mattresses are expensive, though, so I get wanting to do everything you can to avoid it.

Do you have any questions about anything we went over in this article? If so, I'm always more than happy to help however I can, so be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

What are Cat Years?

The idea of cat years is a way to balance the scale and think about our furry friends in their own context.

If you assume, for example, that a human lives to be about 80 years old, and you know that cats live to be about an average of 15 years old, you can create a scale. If you then divide up 1-15 into 80 individual segments, you can calculate how many "years" old a cat would be in human years.

A cat aged 15 years old would be the equivalent of 80 years old "in cat years," and so on.

The reality, though, is that this kind of scale doesn't actually work. Human development is initially slower, and cat development moves in leaps and bounds throughout their early life.

That means a cat that is only a month old can be in the 1-2 "cat years" old stage, and by the time they reach their first birthday, they're actually the human equivalent of about 15. By the time a cat is four years old, they're the human equivalent of 32 years old. But this isn't a linear scale. It's a little more complex than that.

How are Cat Years Calculated?

Cat years are calculated by taking their age in real years and adding some amount, plus the next year plus a number, and so on. It's kind of tricky, so most of the time, people present it as a chart.

As you can see, the age is somewhat frontloaded here; a kitten develops from the equivalent of a human newborn, to a human baby, to a toddler, to a grade-schooler, to a pre-teen, all in the first year or so of their life. After that, development slows down; they reach their adult stage and simply age as gracefully as they can. These cat life stages are something I go into in greater detail here.

You might notice that the numbers added to each stage alternate once they reach three real-life years old. This isn't really necessary; you can just add 4.5 each time instead of alternating 4 and 5. There are also other charts that estimate this differently, and use 3.5 instead or alternate between +3 and +4.

I've also seen estimates that cats age fifteen cat years in their first year, seven years in each of their next two years, and then four years for every following year.

All of this makes it pretty clear that cat years are made up. When all of the major pet resources have authoritative guides on cat year calculations, and they all have different calculations, it's pretty clear that it's not actually that important to get it all right.

Does this really matter? Not really. The truth is, cat years are mostly a made up fiction for we people to compare our kitties to, to say "look at my old man" while we pet our dozy and snuggly old boy while he naps in a sunbeam.

How Long is a Cat Year?

It varies! Cat years are basically just made up, though. So, there are a few different answers to this question.

The simple answer is that a cat year is the same as a human year. Cats don't experience the seasons any faster than we do, and 365 sundowns and sunrises make a year, no matter what species you are.

Another simple answer is that a cat year is around 4-5 human years, equivalent. Or maybe it's better phrased the other way around: a human year is the time it takes a cat to age 4-5 cat years.

When you factor in the table above, it's even more different. The first cat year is the most action-packed of all of them and crams in 15 years of development. The second is a much slower pace and is only a decade. After that, it settles into a rhythm of averages of four or five years each year.

While it's fun to calculate and think about, it's not really useful to think about cat years.

Are Cat Years Real?

Yes and no.

Cat years are as real as any other concept in human experience. We decided that a cat year has some meaning, and so cat years have some meaning, at least to us.

Our cats? They don't care. They take each day as it comes, they don't know, care, or celebrate birthdays, and the only attachment they have to time is their internal clocks telling them when it's time to be fed.

Woe betide you if it's daylight savings time and you set your clocks an hour different and you haven't adjusted feeding time to match.

Cat years can be "real" in that they give you some sort of expectation of the kinds of health concerns to anticipate for your cat. A cat reaching 12 years old might not sound that old from human experience, but they're well into their golden years as far as cat years are concerned, so you'd want to be watching for those signs of old age. Knowing if you should be watching for the signs of kitty dementia, for example, can be important.

Then again, if you're taking your feline companion to the vet for regular checkups, you don't really need a cat year calculation for that; they'll keep you apprised of what you should be watching for and what you should anticipate.

What Affects a Cat's Aging?

One of the biggest problems with cat years is that it's not really reflective of anything in reality. The truth is, a lot of different things can impact how long a cat lives and how long they maintain their youthful attitudes and energy levels.

Your cat's breed. The breed of cat can be impactful. Often, the more purebred the cat breed, the shorter the lifespan. Cats with some amount of wildcat in them can live longer. Larger cats can often live longer, though that's not always true. "Mutt" cats, like plain old everyday domestic shorthairs, are generally on the longer side of average.

The breed is also important because some breeds have genetic issues that mean they can be predisposed to certain diseases, especially in old age, that can lead to organ failure and an earlier passing.

Their weight. Obese cats have much shorter lifespans than cats in a healthy weight range. Obesity is a problem in cats, in people, and even in wild animals, and it's not an easy problem to solve. Weight maintenance is very important for the long-term health of your cat, and the longer they go in an overweight state, the more likely they are to develop problems related to it, including pancreas issues, diabetes, arthritis, and more.

Underweight cats also have shorter lifespans due to malnutrition, and they often have a harder time fighting off parasites and infections. Feeding cats properly is tricky but important!

Indoor versus outdoor living. Cats that spend all their time outdoors are, unfortunately, much more likely to die earlier. There are a ton of reasons for this: exposure to the elements, fights with wild animals and other cats, greater exposure to illness and parasites, less ability to be treated, less consistent food and water, less clean water, encounters with cars, encounters with evil people; the list goes on and on and on.

There's a reason there's a huge push these days to keep cats inside and to catch-fix-release strays and ferals to reduce the overall outdoor population. It's not good for local wildlife, it's not good for the cats, and it's not good for the people who have to deal with the repercussions of it all.

Food quality. Another factor in lifespan is simple food quality. The better quality the food – that is, the less filler in particular – the better off a cat will be. A balanced diet can be tricky and expensive to maintain, but the worse the food is, the harder it is to keep a cat going without running into obesity or other health issues. This is also another reason why keeping cats indoors is important; you can more easily control what they eat.

Checkups and treatments. Cats with regular veterinary care are going to live longer than cats without it. Whether this means keeping an eye on teeth, getting prescriptions for illnesses, diagnosing allergies and food sensitivities, or taking care of parasites, it's all part of the process.

Parasite exposure. Parasites might seem like they're something you can treat and get rid of, but the aftereffects can linger. Cats that get parasites might be at higher risk of developing long-term illnesses, including cancer, because of it. Even when the parasite is gone, the damage is not, and it can manifest years later.

How Can You Tell a Cat's Life Stage?

A cat's stage of life is fairly easy to evaluate. Are they young, small, and lanky? They're a kitten. Are they full-size but still relatively energetic? They're an adult. Are they full-size but sleepier? They're probably a senior.

You can read my guide to cat life stages for more detail.

For that matter, vets don't necessarily go by pure time for a cat's life stage. They can evaluate the overall status of a cat based on other factors as well. These can include:

• Size
• Weight
• Oral health
• Eye health
• Ear health
• Bodily condition
• Behavior
• Blood work results
• Physical examination results

All of these can help a vet determine how old the cat is, and give you some idea of how old they are in terms of lifespan. This can be useful if you're picking up a stray cat and considering adopting it; you might want to know about how old it is and how long it has left before you make specific long-term life plans.

You can tell the rough age of a cat by their teeth, too. Kittens get their first teeth in the first 2-4 weeks of life. Their baby teeth come in sharp and strong, but they only have 26 of them. When they get a little older, around 4-6 months, they'll start to lose those kitten teeth, and their adult teeth will grow in. They'll have 30 adult teeth. Senior cats, of course, might have lost some teeth over time, but you'll be able to tell whether or not a cat is a senior by other means.

You can also often tell that a cat is getting on in years when their fur coat starts to get some gray hairs to it, and it ends up a little more raggedy and a little less well-groomed. Older cats might not groom themselves as much, or they might focus more on certain areas and forget about others, so they can look a little scruffy.

What's the Best Cat Year?

All of them!

Whether you calculate your kitty's years in cat years or human years, the important part is to spend each and every one of those years caring for, playing with, loving, and enjoying your feline companion. For you, they may not be more than a decade of your life; for them, you are there with them their whole life. A good and bonded cat will love you with the whole of their being, and you can love them back just as strongly, no matter what timeline you use to calculate their age.

So, here we are at the end of this article! Do you have any questions about anything I mentioned in this article, or would you like any additional clarification on a specific part? If so, I'm always more than happy to help you out however I can. Just leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you with a reply as soon as I can!

Some of us are familiar enough with it that we keep track of those odors – unpleasant as they can be – as a sign of health.

One of the key factors that influence a dog's breath is their dental hygiene. Unfortunately, while dogs can be trained to do a lot, you really can't train them to brush their teeth, floss, or use mouthwash.

Even if they wanted to, they don't have hands! So, you have to do what you can to keep their teeth healthy and strong.

What Dental Care Does Your Dog Need?

Dogs need to keep their teeth for as long as possible because it's how they chew their food and how they handle things in their mouth.

If their teeth aren't properly cared for, they can cause pain, lead to infections, break, or fall out. Over time, your dog may end up without teeth entirely, and you'll need to adapt the kinds of food and other activities you perform with them.

What care does your dog's mouth need?

Daily Brushing

Ideally, you will brush your pupper's teeth once a day. The biology of the mouth is the same between dogs and people, more or less, and that means after they eat, bits of food, saliva, bacteria, and other stuff form a sticky plaque that adheres to teeth.

This plaque is alive due to the bacteria, which secrete acids as they live. Those acids eat away at teeth and cause inflammation, decay, and infection to gums and bone.

Therefore, the best time to brush your dog's teeth is shortly after a meal. However, as we often don't have the time or the patience to do that, you can pick any time that is convenient for you as long as it gets done.

Better Food

One of the dirty secrets of dog food is that many dog foods contain fillers. We all know this, of course, but what most people don't realize is that those fillers are often much worse for oral health than natural ingredients.

Things like grains and other carbohydrates are better food for the bad mouth bacteria and more readily form plaques. So, feeding your pooch better food will help in a bunch of different ways, including with tooth care.

Regular Exams

Routine dental examinations, including x-rays and cleanings, can help prevent the build-up of plaques and gum disease and detect abscesses under the gums, lesions on bone, and other oral issues. They can even detect other forms of illness, including oral tumors before they get large enough to become a visible problem.

You often don't need a full anesthetic dental visit every six months. Your vet will check for signs of tooth and mouth problems in a casual examination when you bring your dog in, and only if they have signs of issues will a dental trip be recommended. At that point, you can plan for a trip where anesthetic may be likely, a deeper clean is required, and even dental care like fillings can be performed.

How to Help Keep Your Dog's Mouth Healthy at Home

Keeping your pooch's mouth healthy at home will have long-term repercussions. They'll be able to live without mouth pain, they'll have teeth that can keep them happy and healthy for longer, and you won't have to worry about softer foods for a while.

Older dogs can still succumb to the inevitable – that is, teeth will decay over time, and there's not much we can do about it – but the longer you can hold it off, the better.

So, what can you do to help keep your dog's mouth healthy at home?

Get in the habit of brushing their teeth.

Sadly, while we all know that caring for teeth is important, less than 1% of dog parents actually brush their pup's teeth. As a result, nearly 80% of dogs over three years old have full-blown periodontal disease, and will have long-term repercussions because of it.

Some dogs are placid and happy to let you mess around in their mouth. Most, though, aren't, so you're going to need to train them to tolerate it.

First, buy a doggy toothbrush and doggy toothpaste. Toothbrushes are designed with soft bristles, angled handles, and even multiple heads to make it easier to get all the angles of all the teeth fast and effectively.

Doggy toothpaste is especially important. One of the most common additives in human toothpaste is xylitol, which helps to restore tooth enamel. Unfortunately, it's also very toxic to dogs. Doggy toothpaste also comes in flavors they'll enjoy, like chicken, peanut butter, or beef.

The actual act of training is slow and works best if you start when they're young.

• Start by just getting them to hold still while you inspect their mouth.
• Once you can do that, start introducing the toothbrush. Don't brush yet; just touch parts of their mouth to get them used to the feeling until they can tolerate it.
• Introduce the toothpaste. You might want to put a little on a finger or on the toothbrush and let them sniff and lick it so they know it's not something to be scared of.
• Start brushing teeth. It's easiest to hold their lip up and brush their front teeth to start, so they get used to the sensation.
• Over time, add more teeth until you can brush all of their teeth inside and out.

Throughout this whole process, praise them and pet them for tolerating it without complaint. If they start to reject it, dial back, and don't force it. You'll be able to help them get used to it over time.

The American Kennel Club goes into this process in greater detail if you want a bit more elaboration.

Buy dental-friendly dog food.

Something I already mentioned above is that dog foods can be pretty bad for your dog, especially if they're full of carbohydrates and fillers that fuel the bad bacteria.

Dental dog foods aren't as good as tooth brushing, but they can help cut down on the food that fuels the bacteria that cause tooth decay.

Unfortunately, they tend to be more expensive and harder to find than normal dog foods, and they aren't always compatible with allergy foods, so you may not be able to use them over an allergy-friendly food.

There are also prescription dog foods for more extreme or more sensitive cases. Some dogs need carefully balanced food, and some are just a lot more susceptible to tooth decay than others. In those cases, getting a prescription might help with insurance covering costs and other benefits, as well as making some foods available to you that otherwise wouldn't be available.

Invest in doggy dental chews.

Dental chews are basically healthy treats for dogs. They're textured and ridged, stuff enough to scrape plaque off of teeth, but not so hard that they can cause damage to teeth or gums as your dog chews on them.

Sometimes, they also include ingredients that help fight mouth bacteria and ward off tooth decay.

Dental chews aren't a replacement for tooth brushing, but they're a good supplement, and if your dog really doesn't want to have anything to do with a toothbrush, they can be better than nothing.

Give your dog a chew toy.

Chew toys aren't just for enrichment and entertainment; they're also a way your dog can chew on something that not only doesn't contribute to plaque formation but helps get rid of it.

Chew toys of various sorts, including plastic, rubber, nylon, and even rawhide, can help keep your pooch entertained and bust some of the plaque that builds up over time. Rotate through different kinds of chew toys so they always have something fun and new to play with.

Consider powders and sprays.

For dogs that are extremely averse to any kind of dental hygiene, you can try powders and sprays.

Sprays are spritzes you can either spray directly into your dog's mouth or onto something like a chew toy so that when they lick and chew on the toy, it gets into their mouth and on their teeth.

It's made of a bunch of different ingredients, but the most important are minor antibacterials that will kill mouth bacteria. The end result is less plaque build-up, better breath, and less tooth decay.

Powders, meanwhile, are similar, except they work in a different way. They're probiotics, which means they're made up of good, healthy bacteria.

You sprinkle some on your dog's food, and when they eat, the good bacteria eat some of the leftover bits of food that the bad bacteria normally would, out-competing the bad bacteria and preventing tooth decay.

Again, they aren't as effective as tooth brushing, but it's a good supplement, especially if you can't find or can't afford dental-friendly food.

There are also powders and drops that can be added to your dog's water dish to do the same thing. They're tasteless and odorless, but they help kill bad bacteria and keep your dog's mouth clean.

If all else fails, try dental wipes.

Dental wipes are basically cloths soaked in a dental-cleaning liquid. Instead of using a large and irritating toothbrush, you can wrap one around your finger and just use that to "brush" your dog's teeth.

They aren't as good as a brush at getting into all the little divots and nooks in a dog's mouth, but they're often more tolerable than a brush and can help you give your dog a brushing without using a brush or toothpaste.

Dog Dental Hygiene FAQ

Let's round things out with some common questions.

How often should a dog visit a doggy dentist?

Just like people, our pupper pals need to have dental exams and cleanings on a regular basis. Often, that should be about once every six months, just like it is for people. It can be part of a general vet check-up, or as a special doggy dental visit.

It's important to remember that a casual dental inspection can't catch everything and that a full, in-depth cleaning and examination requires general anesthesia.

Your vet will need to check for places where teeth touch a surface they shouldn't, where guns are inflamed or prone to bleeding, and where cavities may have formed under the gumline. They will also check the soft tissues and palate, tonsils, tongue, lips, and more.

What happens if your dog gets a cavity?

Cavities are actually a lot less common in dogs than in people. Usually, dogs end up with gum disease that, if it progresses, can damage the jawbone and the gums. Cavities are less common because of dog diets and how much more exposed their teeth tend to be.

There's a common misconception that dogs don't get dental care the way we do. In fact, if your dog has a cavity, they can get a filling just like we do; they can even get a full root canal and crown if necessary.

The downside is that it's usually quite expensive, so many people opt for having the tooth pulled instead. This can be fine for a single tooth, but over time, if your dog loses too many teeth, it can hinder their quality of life.

What dogs are most susceptible to tooth decay?

In broad strokes, the smaller a dog is, the more likely they are to have issues with tooth decay. There are two reasons for this. The first is that smaller breeds are just genetically a lot more likely to have issues than larger dogs.

The second is that their teeth are physically a lot smaller, so even a tiny spot of decay can cause more problems, whereas a larger dog has more leeway before it causes issues.

Are no-anesthetic dental visits viable?

Unfortunately, no. Some doggy dental clinics offer no-anesthetic cleanings and procedures, but these tend to be pretty traumatizing for our poor pup pals and can make it harder for you to take care of their teeth later. It's better to opt for the anesthetic when it's necessary.

Do you have any questions about maintaining your dog's dental hygiene, or was there anything I mentioned in this article that you'd like additional clarification on? If so, I'm always more than happy to help, so be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as I can!

Let's walk through the five main stages of kitten growth on their way to adulthood, with images to illustrate what they look like.

#1: Fresh, Newborn Kittens

First up, take a look at this image. These are two kittens carefully cradled in a towel, but if you didn't know what they were, you could easily be convinced they were any number of different kinds of animals.

Kittens at this stage of life are extremely vulnerable, which is why mother cats don't leave their side. Their eyes are closed, so they can't see anything around them. Their ears work, but they're folded over, and anyway, a kitten this young – only hours or a few days at most – is unlikely to know what any of those noises it hears mean.

Kittens of this age are completely helpless. They can't move, they can't walk, they generally can't even do more than make noises. They can't keep themselves warm and rely on cuddling with mama to transfer body heat. They're still figuring out how to digest food, and they need help to even eliminate waste.

When kittens are this young, they're spending the vast majority of their time sleeping, growing, and "waking up" to life. They can purr, and they can cry, and they can eat, and that's about it.

This is a very critical time for kittens. Mama needs to be in a comfortable place and attended to to ensure she has her own nutrients to produce milk for the kittens. The kittens seek out milk to eat when they aren't sleeping, and mama keeps them warm, grooms them, helps ensure they can eliminate, and protects them.

If left unattended, kittens of this age are extremely vulnerable and can pass away at any moment. If they get too cold or aren't fed, they can pass, or they can end up with poor growth or health issues as they get older. If you're caring for a kitten of this age – especially if mama didn't make it for one reason or another – you're going to be giving up sleep so you can attend to them because they aren't going to make it through the night on their own without assistance.

The biggest concerns at this stage

Kittens that are only a few hours or a few days old are extremely vulnerable, weak, and still developing. They don't do much more than sleep, externally, but they're very active internally, getting their organs sorted out, strengthening their tiny skeletons, growing muscles, and more.

Kittens at this age are very vulnerable to starvation, dehydration, and the cold. They need active care.

#2: Two-Week-Old Kittens

For number two, take a look at this picture. From one to about three weeks old, kittens are rapidly developing and starting to transform from helpless lumps of fur and hunger into living beings. They're still very dependent on mama, but they aren't quite as helpless. They can move a little and often love to pile together on top of one another in their litter so they can share body heat and enjoy their purring and socialization.

While they're starting to look and act more like kittens, they're still relatively helpless. They can move a little, but they're shaky and stumble around, wobble, and generally aren't confident in themselves. Most of their movement will be crawling around the pile with one another, or maneuvering to seek out mama for some more food. They still need to be eating regularly.

Physically, they're developing more. They're growing in size, though you can still easily hold them in one hand. Their ears are perking up, and they're opening their eyes so they can start to see the world around them.

One striking feature of kittens of this age is that their eyes are a clear, vibrant blue. This is because the cells that produce the pigment that will give them their final eye color aren't active yet and won't be for at least the first six or so weeks of the life of the kitten. As they age, their true eye color will fade in, and you'll be able to tell what kind of eyes they have by the time they're about two months old.

It can be pretty fun interacting with kittens of this age, as long as you're very careful and have permission from mama. Mama will be very defensive if she doesn't trust you, and with good reason: her babies still need her. But, the kittens are able to start wandering by the time they're two weeks and change, and while they're very wobbly, they may happily wobble their little ways over to you, especially if you're warm.

In some cases, if mama trusts you a lot, she may bring her babies to you for warmth and protection while she gets a spare moment to herself. It's quite adorable when it happens, but of course, you're then stuck being mama and protecting these kittens for however long you get to be their nest.

At this age, kittens can knead, though they can't really control their claws, so there's a bit of risk in letting them knead on your tender flesh. They will also hiss – or try to hiss, anyway – at anything unfamiliar and scary. You may notice that some kittens hiss more than others; the ones who don't hiss as much may just turn out to be the brave troublemakers of the family.

The biggest concerns at this stage

At this stage of development, the biggest concerns are feeding and getting into trouble. As kittens get more mobile but are still not very confident, they can run the risk of getting into places they shouldn't or trying to eat things they shouldn't. Most of the time, while they still need some active care, they'll stick close to mama – and mama will keep them close – so they'll be a little safer.

#3: Month-Old Kittens

Next up, we have an image like this, along with billions of other kitten pictures on the internet.

By the time a kitten is around a month old, they're starting to reach the point where they're active and developing their personalities. They're going to be more confident on their feet and won't have that kitten wobble. They won't exactly be jumping up on the couch, but they know their claws can help them climb, so they'll happily try to make their way up the furniture, the curtains, nearby pants, and other surfaces they can hook into.

They're also developing their voices more, their eyes are starting to turn the colors they'll be as adults, and they're going to be more curious. You can start to play with them with toys, they'll start to learn to pounce and play with each other, and they'll be learning behaviors from their mama like grooming.

At this age, you can start giving the kittens some "solid" food – that is, wet food. They still can't eat dry food, and their teeth are only just starting to come in, so they can't crunch through the harder kibble you give mama.

This is also when you can start providing a litter box for the kittens to use. They might not know what to do right away, but litter training should be done as early as feasible to engrain the habits in the cats as they age.

While caring for kittens at this age is no longer about around-the-clock care and feeding, it's still important to spend time and effort on it. This is the most important time for kitten socialization, with each other and with you. You want kittens to be accepting and sociable with other cats and with humans so they don't end up scaredy-cats. You'll get to see them develop their own personalities and preferences and can adapt your training to their little kitten minds.

The biggest concerns at this stage

At this point, kittens are starting to get rambunctious but don't have a good awareness of danger. They are also going to be vulnerable to illnesses. A surprising number of kittens at this age end up falling ill or ending up with an injury because they tried a jump they couldn't handle or a fellow littermate caught a claw in the wrong place at the wrong time. I've seen a few kittens lose eyes at this age, though they adapt quickly, and it doesn't seem to hinder their development all that much as they go.

#4: 1–3-Month-Old Kittens

After your kitten has reached a month old, they'll look a lot like this. They may be a little gangly, and they're rapidly growing during this period as they age into their adult size. They may look a little scruffy as their fur smooths out, and they'll definitely have a lot more energy and curiosity.

At this age, they can control their claws, they'll be working on finishing teething as their molars come in, and their mama will probably stop feeding them. This is when you transition to full wet food (and make sure to seek out a kitten formula to make sure they get all of their nutrients) and work more on litter training. You want to avoid dehydration, constipation, and other distress as much as possible.

Around six weeks is when you should start getting vaccines for your kittens. Vet trips to check up have been regular up to this point, so you should have a lot of guidance on how to proceed.

The biggest concerns at this stage

Curiosity can get the best of a kitten at this stage, and they can get into a lot of trouble. Most professional fosters set aside a dedicated kitten room with plenty of enrichment and, critically, nothing they can chew on or dig into that will hurt them. Illness is also a concern, which is why vaccinations are important.

#5: Full Kittenhood

At this point, kittens have aged into full cats. They aren't full sized yet, and they have a lot more energy than their older brethren, but they're still essentially cats. You can transition them fully to wet food and start introducing semi-dry food. You can work on more training, socialization, and more health checkups.

This is also around the age when foster kittens can start to be adopted. Unless kittens were born in your care, or you're a worker at a shelter or care facility, you probably won't encounter the earlier stages of kitten very often.

These are some of the most fun, rambunctious, playful, and entertaining cats you can encounter. They're also prone to getting into trouble, figuring out how to stake their territory, developing a social hierarchy amongst their litter or other household cats, and figuring out precisely how much respect they should be giving you. Training is in full force now, so make the most of it.

The biggest concerns at this stage

At this point, you need to do things like check for parasites, intercede in more serious cat fights, and get your fur babies fixed to prevent hormonal problems and unwanted additional kittens. Other than that, it's all about caring for them as you would any other cat.

Kitten Development FAQ

Time for some frequently asked questions!

How can you tell how old a kitten is?

Other than some signs, like their eyes being closed or blue, their ears being folded, or the confidence in their walk, it's a sliding scale. A kitten with slightly stunted growth might appear younger than it is. Of course, if you're encountering such a kitten and you don't know a specific age, it also kind of doesn't matter; you just need to get them the care they require to succeed in life.

When can you give kittens food?

Kittens start to wean off of their mother's milk around 3-4 weeks of age, and you can start supplementing their diet with some kitten-formulated wet food. After that, around two months is when you can start giving them semi-wet and dry food.

When should you vaccinate kittens?

Kitten vaccines start around 6-8 weeks old, though different vaccines have different schedules. Talk to your vet about a specific schedule and stick to it, and it will be easy to handle.

Do you have any other questions? Feel free to ask me below!