What you don't think of as often is our cats doing the same thing. Yet they can and they will; cats will happily pursue your meal and, given half the chance, might steal it right off your plate while you glance away for a moment.

There are a few differences, of course. Dogs are generally a lot more obedient and receptive to commands, so when you tell them to stop begging and go to their bed or stay out of the dining room, they'll usually listen. Cats, though? While you can train a cat, whether or not they listen to your commands is another story.

Note that this is primarily a post about your cat begging for table scraps and human food when you're making or eating your own meals. For cats who beg for their own food around meal times (or whenever they want to eat), that's another story. Some of the same tips will work, but it's a subject worth another post of its own. If you want me to write that one, let me know in the comments!

So, if you have a cat that loves nothing more than to beg for a bite of your dinner – or who leaps onto the table and tries to take it for themselves – you likely want to deal with it. The question is, how? The good news is that it's possible, but it may take some trial and error and some frustration until you get it right.

Why It's a Good Idea to Stop Your Cat from Begging

First, let's talk a little bit about why it's a good idea to train this behavior out of your feline friend. Cats are small, and while they can be pushy, it's not exactly that difficult to shove them away while you eat, right?

There are a few reasons why it's a good idea to stop begging behaviors.

• A pushy cat can be unpleasant to deal with during meal times.

• There's a small element of danger; if you push your cat away and they cling, you can be scratched.

• Many human foods are dangerous or toxic to cats, but they don't know that, so if they steal a bite, it can end up hurting them.

• Cats aren't likely to discriminate, and a cat being pushy at mealtimes can be unpleasant for guests you have over.

So, training begging out of your cat isn't just for mealtime comfort; it's for both your safety and the safety of your feline friend.

Why Cats Beg for Food

As with most behaviors and most training, it's generally a good idea to know why your cat is begging so you can diagnose the root cause and address it if possible.

Now, sometimes, none of these causes apply. Sometimes, your cat just likes you and wants to share in what you're doing with you, and since what you're doing is focusing your attention on your plate, they want to do that, too.

Your cat is on a diet and is hungry.

One of the most common reasons why cats beg for food is because they're hungry. Sure, it sounds obvious, but surprisingly, people often overlook this as a cause.

It's most common with obese cats who are being put on caloric restrictions, but it can also crop up with cats that are just used to being able to free graze, or adoptions that were fed more at a shelter, or were used to hunting a local bird or rodent whenever they were hungry.

One thing to consider is if you've recently switched to an automatic feeder, which might be handing out smaller portions than you normally would. That's not necessarily a bad thing for your cat's health, but it might be a cause you didn't think of right away.

Your cat is having their food stolen.

This is most common if you have two cats, a cat and a dog, or a cat and another pet around the house, like a ferret. You feed your animals, but the one who finishes first goes on to bully the other out of food or just steal some of it.

At the root, it's the same cause as the above; your cat is just hungry. In this case, though, your cat is being pushed out of eating their full allotment of food.

I've even heard of cases where indoor/outdoor cats (or even neighborhood strays) sneak in through a doggy door and steal food, and the parent in the house doesn't notice.

If you have multiple animals in your house or access to the outdoors, try finding a more isolated space where you can feed your cat and see if that helps.

Your cat has a health condition affecting digestion or cravings.

There are a bunch of different medical conditions that can cause hunger, change metabolism, or make your cat feel like they should beg for more food.

Diabetes and hyperthyroidism are both issues that can lead to excessive hunger and thirst, even if your cat is eating enough. They just aren't digesting and using the energy properly, so they end up hungry.

There are also other diseases that can impact digestion or the ability to pull energy from food. Kidney disease, gut diseases, temporary illnesses, cancers, and more can all cause problems.

Mouth, tooth, and other dental diseases can also be a cause.

Your cat wants to eat, but they find it painful, so they can't eat their fill. But they're still hungry, so they beg for food even if they have it.

If this begging is a new, sudden behavior, and you haven't changed anything that could be attributed as a cause, like swapping their food, you might consider bringing them to the vet for a checkup.

Your cat has a parasite.

Parasites, by their very nature, pull nutrients from their host. Your cat is effectively eating for two, against their will.

Worms are the most common cause and are especially prevalent in cats that spend time outdoors. Things like fleas are less likely to cause begging because of how little they pull from your cat.

You will usually see other signs of worms as well. Upset stomachs, vomiting, bloody stool, diarrhea, a pot-bellied appearance, and visible worm segments around their rear end can all be signs. For these, a vet trip and some medication can clear it up.

Your cat is picky about their food.

Some cats like change in their routine. If you feed them the same thing all the time, they'll get bored of it and stop eating all of the food you give them.

Varying up the flavors in the wet foods, changing brands for dry foods, mixing the two, and other options can all spice things up without having to resort to human food.

Your cat has a behavioral quirk.

This is my last catch-all cause.

Your cat is just greedy. Some cats are! If you have a regular little Garfield who would love nothing more than snarfing down a whole lasagna, it happens.

Just like some people have a greater love of food than others, so do some cats. The begging can still be trained away; it just doesn't have as easy a cause to diagnose.

Your cat is bored. Begging is a way to get some attention from you and something to do. If you notice that your cat begs for food, but when you give them food, they don't seem very interested, there's a decent chance that what they're begging for is your attention instead.

Your cat has developed a habit of begging. Some cats just learn that when they beg for food, you provide it, even if it's during scheduled mealtimes. It's a reinforced behavior, and you may have unwittingly trained your cat to beg around mealtimes. Fortunately, again, this isn't too hard to train away once you realize that's what's happening.

Enough about the causes: how do you stop your cat from begging for food?

Step 0: Don't Give Them Your Food

It might sound obvious, but you need to be extremely disciplined about not letting your cat have any human food at meal times.

Whether it's you, your spouse, your friends, or your kids, make sure everyone knows that kitty can't have human food.

Step 1: Check for Signs of Medical Problems

The first thing you want to do is give your cat a solid once-over and make sure they don't have any of the medical issues I mentioned above.

You'll want to:

• Check their litter box for signs of diarrhea, bloody stool, or other problems.

• Check their rear for signs of worms.

• Check their mouth for signs of abscesses, cavities, broken teeth, gum disease, or other mouth problems.

• Check their body for signs of bloating, parasites, intestinal blockages, lumps, or other problems.

If you don't notice anything, you can move on to the next step. You might also consider scheduling a near-future vet trip for a medical once-over, especially if you're not confident or if you're getting a bad vibe from your furry friend. Cats are very adept at hiding their problems, after all.

Step 2: Establish a Feeding Routine

Cats are very much creatures of habit, and that means they prefer being fed in the same place and at the same time every day. If you're late or you change things up, your cat might take to begging to remind you.

Bear in mind that cats might need different feeding schedules, especially if you have cats of different ages. Some cats thrive on multiple smaller meals throughout the day, while others prefer a more normal 2-3 times per day schedule. Consistency is the key, either way.

While you're at it, check for signs that your cat is being bullied out of their food by another animal in the house. If it's happening, you may need to isolate your creatures during feeding times.

Step 3: Work on Training the Begging Away

If your cat is begging, how do you train them to stop?

One of the most important things to do is don't give in. You need to ignore your cat when they beg and refuse to give them so much as a single treat or bit of kibble (unless it's normal meal times.) You shouldn't talk back to them, make eye contact, or pet them, either.

Yes, sometimes your cat will be very pushy and might jump onto you to scream in your face about it.

Just move them away, or get up and move, possibly even closing them in a room so you can eat elsewhere in peace. You need your cat to learn that begging doesn't work.

During this time, you can work on positive training using their meal as the reward. They'll already be food-motivated since they're hungry, so it will work more easily than many other kinds of training.

Cat Food Begging FAQ

To round things out, here are a couple of questions I didn't have a place for up above.

Should you startle or scare your cat to stop begging?

While a loud clap, a spray bottle, or other discouragement can get your cat to stop begging, it's also a terrible thing to do. It stresses them out, makes them anxious, and can hurt your bond with your furry friend.

You want to use positive training methods, not negative behaviors.

Should you consider a puzzle feeder?

Puzzle feeders are usually more of a thing for dogs to slow down aggressive eating, but they can also work for cats. A puzzle feeder can help with the slow-grazing kind of throughout-the-day feeding method and helps keep your cat more engaged.

The trick is that you have to make sure you don't give them treats, or they'll just come to you begging when the puzzle feeder seems like too much work.

What are the chances that begging is a medical problem?

Fairly low. While medical problems can cause begging, most of the time, you'll see other symptoms instead, and your cat might actually be more prone to hide during mealtimes so they don't risk showing their pain to others.

Begging is essentially never an emergency vet trigger, but it might be worth mentioning at your next regular checkup or on a quick phone call or video visit.

Do you have any questions? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you with an answer as soon as I can!

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Purebred cats are often quirky in their own ways, with breed characteristics that make them iconic in appearance, behavior, and personality. They can be an absolute joy! They can also be expensive, as pure breeds often end up prone to certain illnesses. They may not be for everyone, but for those who care for and love them, it's a great feeling knowing they're something special.

Among the many possible purebred cats out there is the Bengal. You've probably heard of them and seen their leopard-like appearance, and you wonder: is a Bengal cat right for you? I'm here to help you make that decision.

What is the History of the Bengal Cat Breed?

Have you ever looked at a giant wild cat – a lion, a tiger, an ocelot, or a leopard – and thought, "Wow, I'd love to have one of those!" Unless you're a criminal, you can't, but a Bengal is the next best thing.

While Bengals share an appearance with certain wild cats, like the leopard, they have much more in common with our normal domestic felines. That's by design!

In fact, the Bengal is the result of a selective breeding program started in the 1960s by a woman named Jean Mill. Jean, like many of us, was fascinated by wild cats. On a trip to Southeast Asia, she saw the Leopard Cat – a relatively small wild cat native to the area.

The Asian Leopard Cat is about the same size as our domesticated cats. It's also a relatively friendly wild cat, as far as wild cats go – with archeological evidence suggesting that it was domesticated 5,000+ years ago in certain areas of China. The modern Leopard Cat is, of course, a wild cat, but the potential is there.

Leopard Cats are classified as Least Concern as far as endangerment as a species today, but back in the '60s, they were coming a lot closer to extinction due to poaching and fur trading. Kittens of the species were often sold as keepsakes, a sort of living souvenir, and Jean Mill bought one.

While the kitten Jean adopted – named Malaysia – was a solitary and skeptical animal, it did take to the partnership of a domestic black cat Jean also kept around, and in a twist that surprised many at the time, produced a viable kitten.

In any other story, you might think this would be an immediate turn to the goal of breeding cats, but Jean didn't take to it right away. It wasn't until 15 years later that she read a study about certain types of cats and cat cross-breeds that had an immunity to feline leukemia, including cross-breeds of leopard cats.

It was at this point that Jean started to work with those scientists to develop the species we now know as the Bengal. Her breeding incorporated elements of Leopard Cats and other breeds like Burma and Mau.

She faced many challenges, including hybrid males that ended up sterile (a common problem with near-species cross-breeds, like Mules and Ligers), but eventually produced the breed we know and love today.

What Are the Breed Characteristics of Bengal Cats?

What makes a Bengal a Bengal?

In most ways, Bengal cats are more or less the same as domestic cats. They may have some lineage of the wild cat, but their personalities are much closer to that of our lovable feline friends. The main thing the wild breeds add to the mix is the unique and striking fur coat.

Bengals look exotic. They're usually a shade of orange, ranging from faint orange to deeper, almost-brown orange. Their coat is mottled with spots like a leopard, with stripes on the legs and tail, all made of dark brown or almost black patches.

What does the F mean? Sometimes, when you're looking at Bengals, you'll see a label like "F4 Bengal" or "F2 Bengal" for the breed. The lower the number, the closer the cat is to the original wild cat in the lineage. It's a generational number!

Often, due to their more reclusive and hesitant natures, F1/2/3 Bengals aren't allowed (by state law!) to be generally adopted. F4 and higher tend to be much more outgoing and more like domesticated cats.

Over time, other varieties of Bengals have cropped up as well and been selectively bred by breeders and catteries around the world. Lighter, very pale versions are called Snow Lynx Bengals. Strikingly black-and-white cats are called Silver Bengals.

Blue Bengals have a blue-gray coloring that almost appears blue in the light. Some Bengals have the original black cat heritage and look almost pure black until their spots are revealed in the light. You can see an illustration here.

• Lifespan: 10-16 years on average.

• Coat: Short, though some long-hair Bengals, called Cashmeres, exist.

• Energy level: High.

• Attitude: Bold and affectionate.

In addition to their strikingly wild look, Bengals are ferociously playful, very social, vocal, and too clever for their own good. Get those child locks out and get ready to deal with a furry escape artist because a Bengal won't let anything stop them if they have places to be.

Training a Bengal Cat

Bengals are very intelligent, and they can learn quickly. They're very playful and interactive, and they have a lot of energy, so they really need a lot of stimulation and interaction to stay happy.

Basic cat training is often relatively easy with Bengals, and they pick up what you're putting down relatively quickly. Things like litter training, training them not to scratch the furniture, and training them out of certain behaviors (or into others) is quick and relatively painless.

Bengals can also learn some tricks. They can be almost dog-like in how responsive they can be to certain commands, and you can train a Bengal to sit, to come, to shake, or to jump. Just remember to use positive reinforcement and be consistent with your training!

One fun thing about Bengals is that they're actually pretty easy to harness-train. You can teach your Bengal how to happily wear a harness and leash, and then you can take them out for walks and explore just like you would a dog.

Bengals even enjoy water! Whether it's hopping into the bath with you or taking a dip in a pool or pond when you're out, they'll happily swim around when the mood strikes them.

When they're not getting into trouble or having fun, Bengals love to explore, and they are fantastic jumpers. If you're wondering where your Bengal is, check on top of the cupboards and shelves first.

And, at the end of the day, Bengals form close bonds with their parents and tend to be very affectionate.

Warning: If you're not able to spend a lot of time and energy on your cat, don't get a Bengal. They really need attention, play, and affection to thrive, and if you have to leave them alone for eight hours a day while you work, you're going to have a lot of issues with them. They will also get into anything and everything if they can, which can be dangerous if you haven't properly cat-proofed your home.

To sum it all up, Bengal cats are a bit much, in all the best and worst ways.

Do Bengal Cats Have Health Issues?

Purebreds of any animal tend to have health issues unless they're very, very carefully controlled, and even then, it's sometimes just an unavoidable fact of genetics. What about Bengals?

There's good news and bad news here.

The good news is that Bengals are considered a pretty healthy cat breed. Since the breed is new, and it wasn't developed until after we had a pretty good societal understanding of genetics (at least the basics), many of the common causes of health issues in purebreds aren't there.

You don't have the stubby snouts, the tendency for kidney issues, or the susceptibility to diseases that you get from breeds that were produced through hundreds of years of inbreeding.

Bengals do, however, have some tendencies. They are particularly prone to eye problems, including progressive retinal atrophy, cataracts (no pun intended), and an eyelid issue called entropion.

They are also more prone to cardiomyopathy and joint issues than your usual domestic feline. It's also possible that Bengals are more likely than other breeds to develop lymphoma.

Bengals are also generally extra-sensitive to anesthesia, particularly ketamine. This means a vet needs to know how to deal with the breed for procedures like surgeries, where their normal anesthetic protocol could risk severe side effects on a Bengal.

Some Bengals go their whole lives without any of these issues, while others develop them surprisingly young. The key is to know what to watch for and, if your cat experiences any of them, to know how to deal with it.

How to Care For a Bengal Cat

Bengals don't need a lot beyond what most cats need. They're generally short-haired, so you only need to brush them every few days. Their nails need to be trimmed and their teeth need care, but that's the same as any cat.

The areas where Bengals need more attention are energy, exercise, and mental stimulation. A little automatic toy that swings a feather around won't cut it. Bengals have very high energy levels, and they're very smart, so they do best when you can dedicate time to playing with them in ways that engage their mind, not just their body.

One thing to be careful of is that Bengals can be a bit fierce when they play, and they can be very skeptical of newcomers. They can become fast friends with other cats, dogs, children, and other pets. But, if they get overstimulated, they can lash out.

Their playtime can get surprisingly violent, too, and another animal that isn't used to or prepared for it runs the risk of getting hurt. That applies to people and kids, too.

Food puzzles, training, vertical playgrounds, and fetch are all good options to play with a Bengal. They also love watching the outdoors, so make sure they have a nice shelf or platform near a window.

Where to Find a Bengal Cat to Adopt

As a pure breed, Bengals can be difficult to find.

This is a difficult question to answer, and not just because I don't know where you're reading this from. I'm generally against breeders on principle because there are millions of loving and deserving cats out there in shelters who run the risk of being euthanized.

There are, however, dedicated purebred rescue organizations across the country. Groups like SPCR in the Midwest help to rehome purebreds of all breeds.

Breed-specific rescues like Bengal Rescue (which operates in the west and southwest) and their partners, Great Lakes Bengal Rescue, can also be good options. You can also use more generic services like Chewy or Petfinder, though you never know for sure who is on the other end of such sites.

Adopt, don't shop. That's the only ethical way to get a purebred cat these days, with so many looking for their forever homes when life has abandoned them.

And, yes, Bengals can be expensive. Specialty rescues tend to charge higher fees than your average local shelter through a combination of demand, issues with unscrupulous adopters, and more. Whether you're looking at $500 or $1,000 for a cat, it wouldn't be a surprise. Though, even that is still cheaper than a breeder, so it's a win, really.

If you can rescue a Bengal, and you have the time and attention to give them, you'll be rewarded with one of the most intelligent, affectionate, and incredible cats in the world. Otherwise, I'd recommend setting your sights a little lower and checking out your local shelter for someone to love for more than just the spots on their coat.

Do you have any questions about Bengal cats? If so, I'm always more than happy to help however I can, so be sure to leave me a comment down below!

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Cats are one of the species that experience this cycle, along with dogs, horses, cattle, goats, and more. The question is, as a cat parent, what should you know about your cat going into heat, and what should you keep an eye on? Let's talk about it.

An Overview of the Cat Estrus Cycle

First, let's talk about the estrus cycle in cats. It can broadly be broken into four segments, which cycle back into the first when the fourth is finished.

The first stage is proestrus, which is when estrogen levels start to rise. It's entirely invisible to humans, but male cats can sometimes detect this rise. They might start to show a bit more interest in your female cat, but she won't be interested yet. This phase only lasts a couple of days.

The second stage is estrus, what we call being in heat. This can last anywhere from three days at the shortest to 21 days at the longest, though it usually only lasts for about a week. This is when your cat is in heat and will display behaviors relating to the bodily process. I'll talk more about those in a bit.

During this stage, your cat will either mate with a male cat or she won't. If she does, it will either result in a pregnancy or it won't. So, there are three possible outcomes.

• Pregnancy. In cats, this lasts about two months, after which you'll have a fresh new litter of kittens to enjoy.

• Metestrus. If your cat mates but no pregnancy occurs, this metestrus phase is a sort of cooldown phase that lasts 30-40 days before her cycle starts back up.

• Interestrus. If your cat doesn't mate, the interestrus phase occurs, which lasts 1-3 weeks.

After this phase, she will enter Anestrus, where hormones and behaviors return to normal. Then, if she's still in her cycle, it will restart with proestrus.

Cats only enter this cycle during certain times of the year, which is governed in part by seasonality and the hours of daylight they are exposed to. This means it's subject in part to geography, as well as weather and human conditions. If you maintain stable hours with a sunlamp, you might find that it has an impact on your cat's cycle.

Generally speaking, cat cycles start in the spring from February to April and continue through about October before tapering off for the winter. And hey, that makes sense; a predator doesn't want to have additional nutritional requirements, as well as hindered mobility and potential health issues, during the time of year when food is more likely to be scarce and the environment is more likely to be bad.

What Age Do Cats Start Going Into Heat?

Most cats enter this phase of their reproductive cycle somewhere around 5-9 months of age. Sometimes, kittens can start even earlier, as young as 3-4 months old, while others might go as long as 18 months before their first experience.

What makes the difference? It's a combination of factors. It can depend on their breed, their weight, and even the time of year.

On the opposite end of the scale, you might wonder if cats enter a menopause and stop this cycle when they reach a certain age. In actuality, they don't; their estrus cycle can continue well into their senior years and will be with them for the majority of their life. However, age-related issues like tumors, dysregulated hormones, and other problems can disrupt the cycle.

What are the Behaviors of a Cat in Heat?

If your female cat is entering the phase of her estrus cycle where she's "in heat," it will generally be pretty obvious. The behaviors are pronounced. However, first-time cat parents might not recognize what they're seeing.

The first and most obvious behavior is making a lot of noise. Female cats in heat make noises and vocalizations that, to be honest, can sound very distressing, like she's in pain. It's really just a mating call; she's letting male cats around her know she's up for grabs. It can be quite a change of character for usually quiet cats, though it might not be obvious if your cat is usually a chatterbox.

The second behavior, and arguably the most annoying of them all, is spraying. This is usually a male cat behavior, but female cats in heat might spray urine to mark their territory and spread around the scent that male cats will be attracted to. Unfortunately for us humans, it smells awful, and we really don't want it in the house.

Another behavior is simply restlessness. Your cat knows something is going on, and she wants something, and when she isn't getting it, she'll wander and look for it. She might hang out and pace areas where other cats hang out or spend time at a door or window where she can smell cats outside. She's on the prowl!

Another behavior, and one that can be concerning to new pet parents, is a lack of appetite. When your cat is in heat, she has one thing on her mind, and it's not food or drink. Keep a close eye on her, and make sure she's eating and drinking at least once every 12 hours; if not, take her to the vet.

There's a pretty good chance that she's also going to be very affectionate and seeking your attention. She'll rub her face against you a lot, wrap her tail around you as she passes by, and seek out cuddles and a lap to sit on. She might not stay long because of the restlessness, but the affection helps calm her down a little.

A few of the more physical signs include:

• Swelling of the vulva and genital area.

• Excessive grooming, especially of the genital area.

• Hanging out by the door and trying to escape when she gets the chance.

• Lifting her rear in the air while she poses. When all else fails, the open invitation is the best she's got.

One or two of these signs might be a coincidence, but if they represent a change from your cat's normal behavior, or when multiple combine, you've got a cat in heat.

What Can You Do About a Cat in Heat?

If your fur baby is in heat, you have to decide what you want to do about it.

One thing is certain: a cat in heat is, more often than not, an annoyance. She'll be noisy, needy, and might spray, which is awful to deal with. Not to mention, if she tries to escape, it's a danger to her and to local wildlife.

What you can do mostly depends on the outcome you want. There are, basically, three options.

Option One: Find a Mate

This option is the best option for breeders, usually of purebred cats. I'm generally not hugely in favor of breeders – there are so many strays and forlorn cats living in shelters that need your help already – but the fact is, there's a niche for them, and they aren't going away.

If your goal is kittens, you'll need a mate for your queen for the next litter. How you handle that depends on all sorts of different factors, including genetic testing, purebred certification, and other factors.

Option Two: Manage the Behaviors

If you like your cat the way she is, but you wish she'd tone it down a little, you can try to distract her and keep her from the worst and most annoying behaviors.

Consider things like:

• Setting aside a calm, isolated, comfortable space for her that is cloistered away from loud noises, distractions, and other cats.

• Dim the lights, draw the curtains, and try to keep things calm. Imagine she has a migraine, and you're on the right track.

• Keep her litter box clean and accessible. She's less likely to spray if she can use the litter box comfortably.

• Make use of toys, treats, and catnip while spending extra time to care for your fur baby while she's struggling.

• Stay patient, especially if she's young enough that this is disruptive to her training. It's a biological imperative, and there's not much you can do to stop it.

• Know when to leave her alone. Even if she's being extra affectionate, if she nips or swipes at you, she's probably serious about it, so don't bug her.

Make sure to be vigilant. If she tries to sneak out and escape when you bring in the groceries, you're going to have a heck of a time catching her. You also want to watch out for things like vaginal discharge or signs of an infection, which can be dangerous or life-threatening.

Option Three: Have Her Spayed

The third (and best) option is generally to have her spayed.

Spayed female cats don't go into heat unless the surgery wasn't successful or there's another issue, which I'll discuss a bit below. It's the only way to prevent a cat from going into heat.

Preventing estrus isn't the only reason to spay a cat, either. Spaying is important for her overall health. Spaying before her first cycle can reduce her chances of breast cancer by over 90% and can reduce the risk of ovarian, uterine, and other reproductive cancers as well. It also prevents uterine infections like pyometra, which can be fatal.

There are also side benefits. Cats with diabetes or epilepsy need medications to be healthy, but changes in hormones can disrupt those medications. Spaying her brings stability to those hormones.

Cats in Heat FAQ

Now, let's wrap things up with a few questions you might have that I didn't cover above.

My cat is spayed; why is she going into heat?

If your cat was spayed, she shouldn't be going into heat. If she is, there's a possibility that your vet missed some tissue when they performed the operation and that leftover tissue is causing the cycle of hormones to surge. It's called Ovarian Remnant Syndrome and will need another surgery to correct it.

There are a few other reasons why she might be exhibiting heat-like behaviors, too. Adrenal tumors produce hormones that can cause the cycle. An infection called a pyometra can also occur and cause symptoms. In some cases, if your cat is exposed to products containing estrogen, like topical creams or other drugs, it can cause similar effects as well.

The good news is that all of these require the same reaction: taking your cat to the vet to see what's up and figure out what to do next.

Can male cats go into heat?

Yes and no. Male cats don't go into heat because the estrus cycle is specifically related to female reproductive organs.

However, male cats do have their own behaviors, which are actually a reaction to female cat estrus; they might do more urine marking, they might be more restless, and they might try to escape to find a mate if one isn't available, but they can sense one nearby. Neutered males don't exhibit these behaviors, just like spayed female cats don't go into heat.

Is being in heat painful?

As any human woman can attest, the menstrual cycle can be immensely uncomfortable or painful. Is the same true for cats? Fortunately, no. Some of her behaviors are similar to how she'll act if she's in pain, but I promise she isn't.

She also won't have a period the way we do. There should be no blood involved in the process, so if you notice any, she might have a UTI or other issue you should talk to your vet about.

So, there you have it: a guide to cats in heat. Do you have any questions I missed? If so, be sure to let me know in the comments!

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There are a lot of concerns and considerations with litter boxes, though. They can be gross and messy, a cat can miss their box, and there are even concerns about the kind of litter you choose to use.

What if you could skip the box and train your cat to do what you do: use the toilet? It might sound far-fetched, but it's possible. Let's talk about it!

Why Do People Train Cats to Use the Toilet?

First, we can talk a bit about why you might consider training your cat to use the toilet. There are a few reasons, but they're all things you can probably guess.

You just don't want to deal with scooping and cleaning a litter box. None of us actually enjoy cleaning a litter box, right? If you do, give me a call, and I'm sure we could make a lucrative business out of it. But, really, it's just a dirty, smelly job that needs doing all the time. It's one of the costs of parenting our little fuzzy furballs. But is it really something we always have to do?

You're tired of the expense and mess of cat litter. Especially if you're going for one of the more eco-friendly cat litters, the mess – dust, stray bits, excess litter – can get everywhere and can be just as obnoxious to clean up as the refuse your cat leaves in it. And really, who wouldn't want to save a few bucks a month? Cat litter can be expensive, especially if you have multiple cats and multiple boxes to keep clean.

You don't have a great place to put a litter box. Some people live in very small apartments or in shared housing where the only place they can put a litter box is, say, in the bedroom. Sometimes, the toilet is the most convenient option.

Despite the reasons you might decide to train your cat to use the toilet, there are some good reasons why you might want to hold off, so stay tuned for those later.

Can You Train Your Cat to Use the Toilet?

Well, I probably wouldn't be writing this post if it wasn't possible at all, right? Okay, to be fair, I probably would just because it's a topic people have asked about.

People have been training their cats to use the toilet for many years, though the practice wasn't really popularized until 2011 when some people decided to pitch a product on Shark Tank. That product, the CitiKitty, launched with moderate success and grew from there. These days, there are a bunch of other products in the same vein, like the Cat Throne, the Litter Kwitter, and a bunch of generically-named and off-brand versions on Amazon and the like.

The products work, and some cats can be trained to use the toilet to do their business. It's even a surprisingly simple process. But, you'll note an important word I just said: some.

Some cats are perfectly happy to be trained to use the toilet. Others are very skeptical and hesitant about the idea. Some just don't want to do it at all. So, it really comes down to your specific cat, whether or not they take to the idea.

The benefits of training your cat to use the toilet are pretty obvious, too. You don't have to deal with cat litter, the smell of cat litter and cat droppings won't permeate your home the way they do in homes with litter boxes, and it can help you free up a bit of space and leave behind the litter box. That just leaves us with one question: how do you do it?

How Do You Train Your Cat to Use the Toilet?

Fortunately, if you're going to try to train your cat to use the toilet instead of a litter box, it's a relatively easy process.

My biggest tip would be to buy one of the products that helps you do it. They're relatively cheap – usually under $50, though some are as expensive as $130 – but you can always try to resell it later or keep it for the next time you need to train a cat.

That said, if you don't want to buy a product, you can do it yourself. Cardboard, wax paper, and other household items can make a serviceable replacement as long as you're willing to put a little arts and crafts into it.

Step 1: Move Their Litter Box to The Bathroom

If your feline friend's litter box is anywhere else in the house, your first job is to move it into the bathroom, ideally right next to the toilet.

While this sounds like an easy step, it's a little harder than it sounds. That's because the further away the litter box is from the toilet, the longer you need to take to do it. If you just move the litter box all the way across the house all at once, your cat might not be able to find it when they need to go, and they're more likely to go where it was. So, you need to move it in stages, from one side of the room to the other, then to the next room, and across that room, and so forth.

This is made even harder if you have to traverse a common area or an open area during that move. Cats don't like to do their business where they feel exposed! So, you might need to invest in a litter box enclosure of some kind, which you move with the litter box inside it.

Let your cat set the pace here. If they have an accident during this process, move it back to the last place they successfully used it, and don't be afraid to take your time. The more litter mishaps they have, the more likely it is that your training won't work.

Step 2: Raise the Litter Box Bit By Bit

Your second step is to get your cat used to jumping up into the litter box. Since you're going to be training them to use the toilet, and the toilet is obviously at a height convenient for humans, your cat will need to jump up onto it to do their business. But, putting their litter box up on what is effectively a shelf right away can make them feel uncomfortable, and they might not want to use it. So, instead, raise it an inch or two at a time. Again, this will take a while until you get it to toilet seat height, so be sure to take your time with it.

The biggest tip I can give you here is to make absolutely certain the litter box is weighted or secured in a way that will keep it from tipping or moving when your cat jumps up onto it. Whether that means putting a weight on it (or in it), zip-tying it to a stand, or securing it in some other way, just make sure it's secure. The absolute worst thing that can happen now is for your cat to jump up and have the whole thing tip over, spilling litter, anything in the litter, and your cat, and leaving them scared of the experience.

This is also a great place to do a little training for yourself. If you're used to putting the toilet lid down when you're done using it, you want to break that habit. Two reasons! One, if your cat jumps up onto your toilet to then step down into the litter box, you don't want them to jump in a suddenly open seat and startle themselves. Two, if you leave the seat closed once your cat is more well-trained, they'll have nowhere to go.

Step 3: Start Using the Training Box

At this point, it's a simple matter to make your toilet into a litter box. You start by just putting a tray over the top with some litter in it, which is effectively just moving the litter box over a bit. Then, over time, you start "opening up" the hole.

When you look at any of the commercial products meant for this training, you see what I mean. It's basically just a series of nested rings and a cap in the middle. You start with it closed, then remove the middle so that you get used to there being a hole there. Then, you gradually remove ring after ring until there's nothing left but the toilet seat.

Different cats will take a different amount of time to get used to the change each step of the way. Some will reach a certain point and stop, which means either you need to go back a step or your cat might not be willing to go any further. Depending on the size of the gap they stop, you may be able to continue with using it, or you might not. It all depends on your cat!

At this point, you might want to keep an eye on your cat and give them a reward when they use the toilet properly. This isn't always necessary, but it can help with some of the more hesitant felines.

A question I often see here is if you should try to teach your cat to flush. You can if you want, but keep in mind that cats just do things sometimes, so if you don't want to wake up in the middle of the night to your cat repeatedly flushing the toilet, maybe leave that behavior out of the training.

What Are the Drawbacks to Training a Cat Using the Toilet?

Up above, I mentioned that there are some reasons why you might not want to do this training. While it works for some people, there are some reasons to consider not doing so and just dealing with a litter box. Let's go over them.

First, your cat doesn't get to scratch and dig after doing their business. This is a natural instinct your cat has to bury their waste, and it has secondary benefits like helping to temper their claws and clean their paws. They don't get to do that with the toilet, and that can be stressful for some cats.

Another possible issue is if you have more than one cat, they might fight over the territory. Generally, the advice is to have one litter box plus one box per cat so they all can have their own safe territory to do their business. If you only have one toilet, or if you only have two but have more than two cats, it can cause problems.

Next, using the toilet means perching on the seat, which can be awkward for some cats. It's not a natural position compared to what they do in the litter box, and some cats find it unpleasant. In extreme circumstances, this can even cause some bowel issues.

In some cases, if your cat slips and falls in, it can startle them and stress them into not using the toilet. It only takes one accident to undo a lot of training, and then you're left dealing with litter accidents and a litter box again.

One of the more important drawbacks is that you miss signs of medical problems. A lot of common medical issues are only diagnosed when you notice that your cat's urine or feces are different than normal, but when it's dunked into the toilet and diluted or breaks down, you don't notice that until the problem gets worse.

Finally, when your cat gets older, they might not be able to do it anymore. Cats with joint or mobility problems can't make the jump as easily, they might not be able to perch comfortably enough on the seat to do the deed, and they might lose their balance.

Overall, training a cat to use the toilet can be an interesting trick, and it can be beneficial if you have certain cramped, small living conditions, but a lot of the time, it isn't really worth it.

If you have any questions about anything I covered in this article, be sure to let me know in the comments section!

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Well, unfortunately, our fur babies don't know English and can't really think in terms of conceptual idioms. You can tell them not to bite the hand that feeds, but when they're riled up, there's a pretty good chance they still will. And, unlike people acting out, cats that bite the hand that feeds are literally biting a literal hand. Ouch!

Cats aren't really trying to hurt you when they bite you, but it can still be painful, especially if they weren't socialized as kittens and don't know how to control their teeth. Obviously, you don't want to get bitten by your kitten, so how do you deal with cat biting? Read on to find out!

Why Cats Bite

First, let's talk about why cats bite in the first place.

Much like dogs, cats don't have a lot of ways they can interact with the world around them. They aren't as outgoing and exploratory as dogs – they aren't going to be putting everything they can in their mouths – but they still have to interact in some way. Biting is one of those behaviors they use to interact with and learn about the world around them.

While we tend to view biting as a negative behavior (because it hurts), it's actually not usually negative; it's neutral or even a little positive. It's an instinctual behavior, and it can come from many causes.

Cat Biting Cause #1: Affection Biting

The first cause for cat biting is actually a sign of affection. It's not really a full-mouth bite but more of a little nip or nibble.

It can happen as a sort of progression from mutual grooming; your cat is cuddling, licks at you a bit, and decides they've found something they want to pick at a bit more and uses their teeth to do it.

Normally, cats do this to each other to help pick away knotted fur or remove parasites from each other, but you probably don't have those. So, what are they biting at? It doesn't have to be much. A bit of body hair, a skin tag, a fingertip.

There's not really much of anything wrong with this kind of biting other than the fact that it can be unpleasant for you if they bite the wrong thing.

A similar and related kind of cat biting is when they're bored. This is a kind of affection biting, but it's because they're seeking affection. They want you to play, so they may start trying to bat at and bite at your hands or feet to get you to give them attention.

Cat Biting Cause #2: Play

This one is most common with cats playing with each other but can occur when you're playing with them. One of the ways cats play with each other is with faux hunting.

One will stalk and pounce on the other, they'll tussle a bit, and separate. Then, the roles reverse, and the hunter becomes the hunted. This kind of back-and-forth play is a good way to teach hunting behaviors and socialization without much risk of issues.

With cat-on-cat playing, as long as they're not yowling and trying to escape, it's all fun and games. Cats are pretty good at letting each other know when enough is enough, and the play session will end before either goes overboard.

If you're playing with your cat, there's a decent chance they'll nip at you while you're engaging with them. Sometimes, it's cause #3 below, but other times, it's just how they interact with you.

Cat Biting Cause #3: Overstimulation

A third and potentially related cause of cat biting is overstimulation. This can occur in two different scenarios.

The first is during cuddling and petting or brushing. You're sitting there idly stroking your cat's fur while they doze or simply enjoy it. Maybe you rub at their face a little, scratch behind their ears, whatever you and they enjoy.

Have you ever been hanging out and generally enjoying yourself, but it starts to get to be too much? Maybe a noise in the background starts to bother you more and more.

Maybe the feeling of a fabric pressed against your skin is starting to chafe. Cats can experience the same sort of thing! It's called overstimulation. They may enjoy you petting them and scratching behind their ears, but if you do it too much, they're going to tip over beyond enjoyment and into irritation.

In this case, they'll probably nip at your hand when you try to keep petting them. This nip is a warning; your cat is saying "please stop" in as polite a way as they can manage.

They'd like to continue sitting near you, but they want you to stop touching them. If you keep on petting them, they'll get more aggravated and will probably just leave.

The other scenario where overstimulation biting occurs is during play. If you're playing with them with your hand – going after their belly, flopping them around, picking them up, and putting them down – they may have enough of it. They'll bat at your hands, maybe kick at you with their hind legs, and eventually escalate into nipping at you.

Some cats do this as part of play, while others use it to signal that they're done with playing and it's time to stop. If you keep aggressively playing with them, they'll get more and more aggressive in return until either you stop or they leave.

Cat Biting Cause #4: Fear

This one is a very different kind of bite. The first two causes are from cats that generally know and trust you and who are just warning you a little bit to settle down. This third cause is from a cat that doesn't know you and doesn't trust you.

Cats may be ferocious hunters, but they're still small, and they're vulnerable to larger predators. As such, they really don't like the feeling of being hunted, cornered, or threatened.

Cats can try to bite if you're cornering them or stalking them, and they feel like they have no way out except through violence.

This is most common with ferals or strays that have not been socialized in a while and can happen a lot when you're trying to TNVR them to make your local environment safer for them.

The less well-socialized a cat is, the more likely they are to feel this way and to bite out of reaction. They'll also swipe at you, hiss at you, spit or snarl at you, and generally make it clear that they don't want you to approach.

Cat Biting Cause #5: Pain

Another major cause of cat biting is pain.

One thing most of us know about cats is that they really don't like showing when they're feeling bad. Showing weakness in the wild is a good way to be singled out by a predator, after all. That means when a cat is in pain, whether it's from an injury, infection, illness, or disease, they're going to do everything they can to hide it.

As a cat parent, you'll hopefully be able to recognize this based on a change in behavior. They'll be more withdrawn, less energetic, have less of an appetite, and likely will hide more. When you notice this, you can bring your furry child to the vet to get them checked out, though coaxing them out so you can take them might be difficult.

If you're still able to interact with your cat while they're in pain, the good news is it's probably not that bad. The bad news is it can seem like a sudden change in attitude or behavior when you touch the wrong spot, and they lash out.

Really, it's not much different from someone poking you when you're in pain and you swatting at them to go away. If you poke a bruise, cut, sensitive patch of skin, or area with internal pain, your cat may react with a bite.

How to Get Your Cat to Stop Biting

The first thing you need to do to get your cat to stop biting is to identify why they're biting in the first place.

Start by asking yourself a question: are they biting on their own initiative, or are they biting out of a reaction?

If your cat is biting on their own initiative, it's usually because they're seeking attention. You can train away this behavior by redirecting biting; when they start to bite at you, redirect them with a toy that they're allowed to bite instead of your appendages.

If your cat is biting out of a reaction – which is going to be the most common cause by far – you need to identify what they're reacting to.

• If they're biting when you touch a certain place, stop touching that place. If they are reacting badly and have other behavioral changes, consider taking them to the vet in case something is wrong.
• If they're biting when you haven't changed what you're doing for a while – like idly petting them while cuddling or watching TV – it's their way of telling you they've had enough of what you're doing, and you should stop.
• If they're biting when you're playing with them, it's probably overstimulation, and it's a sign that you need to dial back on what you're doing to let them calm down a bit before re-engaging. That, or switch to a toy that they can bite without causing you problems.

If you can recognize that the reason they're biting is because of something you're doing, it's easy enough to stop doing whatever that is.

The biggest exception is if you're trying to corner them to, say, take them to the vet, which is really the wrong approach in the first place.

The vet should be a relatively pleasant experience if you can make it one, such as by helping your cat be more comfortable with their carrier so it's not a sign of an unpleasant time.

Cat Biting FAQ

Let's wrap things up with a few questions you might have. If I haven't answered your question, feel free to ask in the comments!

Is cat biting normal?

It sure is! Cats don't have a lot of options when it comes to play, fighting, defensiveness, or interaction with the world around them. It really comes down to body language, noises, paws and claws, and biting. Of course, they're going to use every tool at their disposal, depending on the circumstances.

Is biting a sign that your cat is sick?

It can be. If your cat is sick, they certainly won't want to be touched, but they're more likely to go hide from you than they are to stick around and bite if you try to pet them. Sometimes, though, they can have an injury that doesn't cause them active pain, but they'll bite if you touch it and it hurts.

Reactionary biting out of nowhere can be a sign that something vet-worthy is happening, though, so keep it in mind when and call your vet if it happens for seemingly no reason.

Can you train cats to stop biting?

Yup! Much like any form of animal training, and especially cat training, it's all about redirecting their behaviors into something you prefer while rewarding them for doing what you want rather than what you don't.

If your cat is very young – such as within their first six to twelve months of age – they will probably be more bitey than older cats. When that's the case, they may grow out of it as they get older, and training might not even be necessary.

Is there anything to avoid when training a cat to stop biting?

There is, yes. The biggest thing you need to avoid is punishment. If you do something like swat at your cat when they bite, they may respond with more aggression, or they might feel like it's more play and will escalate, depending on the situation. Either way, it results in more biting, not less. Even things like punishment by removing something aren't necessarily going to teach them not to bite.

Is there anything else I didn't cover? If so, let me know!

The idea that they're natural enemies has a foundation in reality, though, so it's something you need to know and account for when you're introducing the two.

If you have a household with established cats, and you want to bring a new puppy into the fold, you need to do so very carefully. If your cats get the wrong first impression, it can set the tone for their whole relationship, and the last thing you want is antagonism between your beloved furry children.

So, let's talk about what you need to do to successfully introduce a new puppy to your cats!

Why Cats and Dogs Don't Get Along

Cartoons may have you believe that cats and dogs do nothing but fight, but there are also plenty of adorable photos showing the exact opposite, and that copacetic relationship is what you really want.

But why is it that cats and dogs so often don't get along? Well, it comes down almost entirely to behaviors.

The dog prey drive.

For example, dogs have an engrained prey drive instinct. This is the same instinct that compels dogs to play fetch, chase squirrels, and – in the case of herding breeds – round up livestock or even people.

So, when they see something smaller than them, like a cat, they're likely to try to chase it around. For a cat, of course, that's incredibly stressful and terrifying; they feel like they're being, well, chased and hunted.

Even if the dog doesn't do anything to them but say hi, lick, or play when they catch them, the cat is likely going to be very stressed about the whole process.

Dogs are also usually larger than cats, so it's a lot easier for the cat to feel threatened by them, even if the adorable doggo is just a huge puppy.

Body language of cats and dogs.

There are also fundamental differences in body language. In a dog, wagging a tail is a sign of happiness; for a cat, a swishing tail is a sign of agitation and irritation. So, a dog seeing a cat's tail swishing around might interpret it as a time to play and be social, while the cat just wants to be left alone.

Eye contact is also a big one. Cats lock eyes and stare when they're afraid or hunting; dogs lock eyes and watch when they're having a good time. Cats that are comfortable and happy tend to do long blinks and look away; dogs don't.

When you're bringing a dog into an established cat household, it's also important to realize that this feels like an intrusion on their territory.

Cats are pretty territorial and like to lay claim to their areas, and when a dog is added to the mix, it's another animal – another predator – taking over some of their space.

Depending on how defensive your cats are, this can be a huge source of stress and defensiveness.

How to Introduce a Puppy to Established Cats

If you want to bring a new puppy into a household with established cats, you need to go about things the right way.

Otherwise, you're going to have a lifetime of stress, fighting, and vigilance to make sure they don't hurt one another. Fortunately, this isn't uncommon, and introducing the dog as a puppy is the best option.

It's even better if you can have the cats socialized with dogs when they're kittens, but that's not always possible.

So, how do you go about the process?

Laying the groundwork for cats and dogs to coexist.

The first thing you need to do is make sure your cats have a lot of freedom they can use to escape the dog. Cats, when they're stressed and have had enough, prefer to retreat and hide to chill.

If they don't have a place they can go to relax and feel safe, they'll get more and more stressed until they lash out.

First, make sure there's a room where your cats can access, but your puppy isn't allowed. This might be a bathroom, a bedroom, or even a closet, but it needs to be a hiding place the dog can't get into so the cats can feel safe there.

Make sure they have the essentials in that room, including a litter box, food and water, toys, and a scratching post. This ideally won't be a permanent arrangement, but you definitely need it as long as your animals aren't comfortable with each other yet.

It might also be a good idea to set up some high perches and shelves where your cat can retreat to and your puppy can't.

Cats also like high places, and they can provide a bit of sanctuary from a rambunctious and energetic puppy, as well as a place your cat can go to watch this new creature without having to fully hide.

And, of course, remember that you're going to have to supervise every interaction between your new puppy and your cats for at least the next few weeks, if not months, until you're sure they're on good terms with each other.

Start with a barrier.

Just like when you're introducing two cats to each other, introducing a puppy to cats means you're going to need to keep them separate. You can't just bring a new puppy into the house, let them run wild, and expect things to work out.

Generally, you will want to designate one room or space for your puppy to be their sanctuary room, just like your cats have one. This is where your puppy will be confined outside of times when you take them on walks, to the vet, and for puppy training.

This will likely last for at least 3-4 days, and more likely for a week, depending on how the animals react to knowing each other is there.

To help foster some faint interactions, feed them on opposite sides of the same door, where they can smell and hear each other but not interact with each other. This helps them get used to the presence of the other animal in small doses.

Train your puppy early.

Speaking of puppy training, you definitely want to be working on the basic commands ASAP. In particular, you need them to be able to obey commands like "sit," "stay," "come," and "leave it" so that you can control them when they're interacting with your cats.

If you notice your puppy is harassing your cats and your cats aren't enjoying it, you need to be able to separate them, and a command is the easiest way to do so.

Start face to face meetings.

Once your critters are more comfortable with one another on the other side of a door, you can start to let them meet face-to-face.

It's best to avoid using either one of their sanctuary rooms for this, though some people prefer to set up something like a baby gate to keep the dog in theirs while the cats can see them.

Another option is to put your puppy in a harness and on their leash, and hold them by you while you allow the cats to roam as they want.

They'll likely be skeptical and skittish, but when they realize the dog can't chase them down or go after them, they'll feel a bit better exploring and watching from a distance.

For your part, this is where you really want to have managed some level of obedience training. If you can keep your pupper calm at your side, despite their instincts to go say hi to the new friends, it helps keep the cats calmer and friendlier.

Generally, you want to keep these meetings pretty short. It also helps if you have a friend or family member who can help supervise the cats, as well.

Finally, you want to have treats for both creatures on hand. Treats will help keep your puppy calmer and distracted from staring at the cats, and treats for the cats can help teach them that they're safe to eat and enjoy space and time despite the puppy being there.

If either side exhibits aggression, make sure to redirect that aggression, usually with a treat or a toy. It's all part of animal training, using positive reinforcement to distract away from problematic behaviors and reinforce better behaviors.

Progress to more unfettered social time.

Once your cats and your dog are more comfortable with each other's presence in the same room, you can start letting your puppy off their leash and allowing the two to interact.

You want the leash still attached, so you can stop them if a problem occurs, but ideally that won't happen.

If all goes well, you can continue to perform these meetings for longer and longer amounts of time until there's no need to keep supervising them.

If there's a squabble or a problem, you'll need to dial back and spend a bit more time on socialization.

It's still a good idea to keep the fuzzy babies separated when you aren't there to supervise, at least until you're sure they get along, so no problems happen when you're not available to redirect.

Puppy and Cat Introduction FAQ

Let's wrap things up with some common questions you might have.

Why do cats and dogs not get along?

It's mostly a matter of body language, honestly! Cats and dogs have similar body shapes and similar actions, but they interpret those actions in almost completely opposite ways, so when a cat is signaling, "Don't come close, I don't want to deal with you," your puppy reads it as "Come play with me!" and when your puppy is staring at the new friend in excitement and playfulness, your cat reads it as aggressive and hunting behavior.

Once your furry friends are familiar with each other, they get to know how to deal with these things, but the socialization process takes time.

How long does it take to socialize a puppy with cats?

This can depend a lot on the personalities of both the puppy and the cats. Some cats don't care much and take to any new friend almost immediately.

Others are very standoffish and will be defensive for a long time. Expect at least a month or two of socialization before you can let them be, and possibly more.

One thing to be aware of is that if you have cats that were strays or have had bad experiences with dogs in the past, it's going to be even harder to socialize them.

It should be possible, just time-consuming, so know what you're getting into before you sign the paperwork to adopt the puppy. There's nothing worse for the puppy or the people than having to surrender a puppy back to a shelter when they don't fit in with your existing household.

Does the breed of the puppy matter?

A little, but not as much as you might think. Different dogs of the same breed can have very different personalities, after all.

Dogs with more of a prey drive will have a harder time with initial socialization, and dogs with high energy levels will be more difficult for a cat to get used to. Larger puppies can present more of a challenge to cats as well, though small breed dogs can be more defensive.

Every dog presents their own challenges, though, so don't assume a rigid schedule is going to work. Adapt to the interactions you see!

What should you watch out for?

The biggest is when one animal bullies the other. We usually think of dogs as the dominant in these relationships because they're larger, but cats can be aggressive enough to counteract that and harass the puppy into submission.

Unfortunately, this stresses out the puppy and can lead to them lashing out when they're larger, which can injure or even kill a cat. Definitely make sure you're an advocate and mediator for both sides so they can't build up this kind of relationship.

You should also make sure that you feed them properly, in ways that they can't steal each other's food. Defensiveness over food is one of the biggest causes of problems between cats and dogs, so make sure to mediate it.

Do you have any other questions that I didn't cover in this article? If so, be sure to let me know in the comments section! I'd be more than happy to help you out.

Cats are also a lot like children in that one of their favorite ways to play with each other tends to be some form of roughhousing. While you can discipline children and tell them to get along, it's a lot harder with cats.

On top of that, it's a lot harder to tell whether or not cats are just roughhousing or if they're legitimately fighting with one another.

They make scary noises, swat at each other, and hold intense stare-downs, and it can look a lot like a fight if you don't know what you're seeing.

So, are your cats playing with each other, or are they fighting? Let's talk about it.

Are Your Cats Fighting?

The simple answer is that most of the time, your cats are playing.

This is especially true if they're littermates or long-time housemates; that is, cats who are familiar with each other.

Fighting is more likely if you're introducing cats to each other for the first time or just relatively recently.

They can scuffle with each other if they aren't comfortable with each other, if one of them is fiercely territorial, or if they're still trying to sort out territories within the household.

It's important to keep this in mind, too, since you may need to invest in a second feeding station, bed, and litter box if one cat is bullying another out of theirs.

If your cat is encountering a visitor cat – through a window, or when they're both outside, or if a friend brought their feline over – then there may be some fighting, too.

A lot of this tends to depend on the temperament of the cats involved and how they view territory. Some of the more territorial cats will fight off any other cat that comes into their zone, while others might be okay with pretty much anything.

What Are the Signs that Cats Are Fighting?

If two cats are fighting, what should you look for? Here are the signs to keep in mind.

Claws out. Cats that are fighting are likely to have their claws out and visible and will be more likely to swat, strike, bat, and swipe at one another.

This is an escalation, though! Keep in mind that cats really don't like physical confrontation. They'll do a lot of posturing and vocalizing before they get physical and will only resort to violence if an interloper is aggressing on them.

Cats may be incredible hunters, but they hate confrontations they aren't in command of. In the wild, a fight can lead to debilitating injury, infection, or even death in extreme cases.

The repercussions are less severe with cats we can just take to the vet, but you still don't want to let them fight if you can avoid it.

Posturing. In a cat fight, the cats will tend to be very tense and stiff. They'll do a lot more staring down each other and making a lot of noises rather than physical aggression.

Often, they will be standing sideways as a way to show how big they are and dissuade the other animal from coming after them.

If one cat is a clear aggressor and the other is defensive, the aggressor will tend to be larger and calmer, while the defender will be crouched, ears back, and more submissive, or at least ready to flee if they can.

Fur and tail. A cat in a legitimate fight is going to fluff up their fur and tail, again, as a way to make themselves look bigger.

Wild animals (and animals like our feline friends who are closely descended from wild animals) don't want to get into confrontations if they can avoid it for all the reasons I already listed.

One of the more reliable signs that an animal isn't something to fight is when they're larger, so cats fluff themselves up. They'll usually point their tails straight up, though they may be nervously lashing it side to side as well.

Facial expressions. Cats that are fighting are going to express it in their body language, and their facial expressions are a key part of that body language.

• Their eyes will be wide open with dilated pupils, keenly attuned to even the slightest twitch from the other feline. They'll have locked eye contact and may take any deviation or distraction as cause to attack in a moment of weakness. Incidentally, this is why the "slow blink" is a sign of comfort and familiarity from a cat and why staring at them is less likely to get them to come to you.
• Their ears will generally be laid back or flattened against the sides of their head. This serves two purposes. The first is that it's not a usual position for cat ears, so it can be a sign of "no really, this is serious" to the other cat. You can see this in flashes if, during play, one cat accidentally hurts the other. It's also defensive; since ears are vulnerable to catching a stray claw, flattening them down helps reduce the risk of injury.
• Their whiskers will be spread out and forward. This can be harder to see on some cats, but it serves as another way to react very quickly to incoming attack or aggression.
• Their mouths will likely be open and baring teeth, especially during the vocalizations.

Unless you're totally inexperienced with cats, you'll be able to tell pretty quickly when a cat is being legitimately aggressive because, most of the time, these won't be the kinds of expressions they'll have when they're around you.

The exception is if you're used to dealing with feral cats, in which case you'll be experienced enough to know what's going on.

Vocalizations. Cats that are in a stand-off especially are going to be making some very distressing noises at one another. They'll be growling in that low, moaning way that cats growl (it's not at all like a dog growl), and they'll hiss at one another.

There's no meowing here. If you've never heard a cat's "fightin' words" before, they can feel primally dangerous, even coming from something as small as a housecat.

Are Your Cats Playing?

Most of the time, if your cats are tussling with one another, they're playing. Even when that playing seems to get strangely violent, and the noises they make sound distressing, it's nowhere near what a real cat fight is like.

The truth is, cat playing can often feel a lot like fighting just because, in a way, it is fighting. Cats play-fight with each other as a way to "train" for fighting, to get used to physicality, and, yes, to establish some kind of pecking order.

Kittens tend to be a lot more "socially playful" when they're young. The older a cat gets, the less likely they are to engage in play with each other in the same way; instead, they'll be more focused on playing with toys and other objects.

This does vary from cat to cat, though; some are more socially playful well into their adult years or even into old age. This can be especially true with littermates who consistently play with each other, as well as when a cat parent is teaching her kittens how to be playful and where the limits are on violence.

What Are the Signs that Cats Are Playing?

Cats that are play fighting will be a lot more physically active, for a longer period of time, than if they were fighting. Again, cats don't like to fight if they can avoid it because injuries are serious business. Playing, though, they'll do that all day if they feel like it.

One of the key factors in play fighting is activity. Cats that are playing with each other will be a lot more active; they'll stalk one another, pounce, tussle, and flee, and repeat the process.

They wrestle, play bite at each other, swipe and bat at each other with their claws pulled back so they're not risking doing any damage, and can even roll around and expose their bellies.

Often, cats that are play fighting will take turns being the aggressor. One pounces on the other, they tussle and separate, then the other one does the pouncing.

Critically, they aren't going to be engaged in a tense stand-off. There's no sideways posture, no hair standing on end, no deep staring and growling.

In fact, cat vocalizations while they're playing are going to be fairly minimal. They might make little grunts and whines, but they won't growl or hiss. Sometimes, the only noises they make are those brief whines if their playmate goes a little too hard.

Other signs, like ear posture, will be brighter and happier. They won't be laid back or flat as in a real fight.

When it comes right down to it, you can usually assume that cats are playing with each other unless there's some very serious posturing and growling going on, or they draw blood, or there's another reason why they'd be aggressive toward one another.

Cats: Fighting or Playing FAQ

Now, let's go through a few common questions I know you're dying to ask.

Why do cats fight with each other?

Play fighting is socialization, but real fighting is much more serious. As such, the reasons behind those fights tend to be more serious as well.

They can include things like:

• Feral cats that aren't used to one another being forced together.
• Cats being introduced to each other for the first time, especially if one or both aren't well-socialized.
• Resource scarcity. Not necessarily even now, but if a cat has had to fight to defend a meal in the past, they'll be a lot more defensive of their resources.
• Territorial defense. Cats like to have a space that is "theirs," and if another cat, especially one they don't know, encroaches on that territory, a fight can ensue.

There are also some more obvious reasons, like a mother cat protecting her kittens when they're very young and defenseless. Sometimes cats can also get aggressive if they're sick, usually from something like a UTI.

Should you stop cats from fighting?

If you see two cats that are poised to fight (rather than play), you might want to intervene to keep them both safe and defuse the situation. You can do this, but only if you do it safely.

Do not intervene by stepping between them, putting a hand between them, or trying to grab at them. That can get you attacked, and then you're in for a trip to the ER to get some stitches and some shots.

Instead:

• Try a positive distraction. Cracking open a can of tuna, rustling a bag of treats, or flipping a toy around nearby might distract one or both cats and defuse the situation.
• Make a noise a bit away. Something like a ping-pong ball bouncing nearby, clapping from a distance away, or otherwise distracting them might work.
• Sliding a barrier between them, such as a wall of cardboard, can break their stare-down and get them to back off.

On the other hand, try not to resort to something like a spray bottle, a loud close noise like a can of coins, a clap right behind one of them, or trying to startle them. These can disrupt a fight, but they're stressful for the cats and can make it even harder to socialize them later.

Can you get cats to stop fighting each other?

Sometimes! One of the more common causes of aggression is introducing two cats to each other, and you can definitely socialize two cats through indirect introductions to build familiarity before letting them interact.

On the other hand, an older, poorly socialized, feral cat is going to be a lot harder to break from their habits.

Sometimes, cats just don't want to be in a place with other cats, and there's not much you can do about it but acquiesce to their wishes. Don't try to force it if you're just going to end up with accidents, injuries, and stressed felines.

Do you have any other questions about fighting or playing in cats? Let me know!

For longer trips, though, cats need to be cared for. You might be able to leave your fur baby with a friend or family member for a few weeks or months while you travel, but sometimes, that option just isn't available. If you're going abroad for a significant length of time – teaching ESL in another country, moving for a job, caring for family in another nation for an extended time, or whatever other reason brings you across the border – you may want to figure out how to bring your cat.

If you're looking for the same sort of information but for your dog instead, check out this guide I wrote. While a lot of the information is the same across both of these, there are some unique peculiarities between species you'll want to know.

Can You Travel Internationally with Your Cat?

This is a surprisingly tricky question to answer. The fact is, every country in the world is able to set its own rules and laws. Some of them don't let you travel to them at all, some prohibit bringing pets of any sort into the country, some have restrictions on the types and breeds of pets you can bring in, and some are completely open to any companion you're taking with you.

It's also important to keep in mind that coming back to the USA has its own requirements. Most of the time, if you have everything you need to travel out of the country, you'll have everything you need to come back, but you should still take the time to double-check before your return trip.

Can You Travel to Another Country with a FIV+ Cat?

FIV, or feline immunodeficiency virus, is generally more well-controlled than some other pet-borne diseases like rabies. As such, most countries don't restrict cats with FIV. You'll need to have an appropriate health certificate, vaccination records, and possibly lab test results, but you won't be outright prohibited, at least as far as I know. If you know of a country that does prohibit FIV+ cats, let me know in the comments!

One thing to keep in mind, though, is that FIV makes your cat more susceptible to infections and diseases, and when you travel, you risk picking up something that isn't local to you (obviously). The stress of a flight, the need to be shipped along with other animals, and the new germ profile of wherever you land might put your fur baby at risk. It's often a good idea to find a place for your FIV+ kitty to live back home while you travel, as much as you might want to bring them with you.

How Do You Find the Rules for International Travel with a Cat?

Every country is allowed to set its own rules for importing pets, which means you need to be able to find those rules so you can follow them. For example, you may need a valid international pet health certificate, you may need to apply to bring your cat with you in advance, and there may be specific limitations on certain kinds of pets. With cats, you're probably fine as far as breed restrictions go, though you may have issues if you have an exotic breed like a serval, caracal, or other larger semi-wild cat breeds. Dogs tend to have more breed-based travel restrictions than cats.

There are a few ways you can find the information necessary to travel with your cat to another country. One of the easiest is to find that country's embassy information. Most countries have a foreign embassy in Washington D.C. and have information on contacting them that is publicly available on this page. By calling, emailing, or otherwise reaching out to them, you can learn their restrictions on pets.

Another option is to visit the USDA's Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service page, which lists various countries and their pet travel requirements. There are also frequently websites for those individual country governments you can check as well.

What if you're traveling to multiple countries in a single trip?

If you plan to, for example, fly into a country in Southeast Asia and then travel throughout the region from country to country, staying in different places for just a month or two at a time, then you'll have to contend with a wide range of different regulations.

If you're traveling to one country and back, you only need to know that country's restrictions. If you're traveling between foreign nations before returning home, you'll need to know the restrictions on each nation. You don't want to get halfway through a trip and find one particular country that prohibits your cat from entering, right?

Sometimes, this is easy. The European Union largely has one set of codified rules for most of its member nations. Other countries stipulate their own rules, and it can be a mess to deal with. You also might have different restrictions depending on whether you're driving across the borders with your cat or flying internationally with your cat.

What Information and Supplies Do You Need to Travel Internationally with Your Cat?

There's a lot you'll need before you can travel to another country with your cat.

Get a USDA-Endorsed pet health certificate.

A pet health certificate is just a piece of paperwork that says your pet is in good health and is up to date on their vaccinations. Most of the time, your vet can give you this certificate quickly and easily.

A USDA-endorsed pet health certificate is a little more complicated. It's the same paperwork, but you can only get it from a USDA-endorsed veterinarian. It generally costs a fee to get your certificate endorsed. This certificate is frequently required as an internationally-recognized standard for validation.

Obviously, your cat needs to be in good health and updated on their vaccinations in order to get this certificate. The last thing you want is to commit an international crime by lying about your cat's health! Rabies vaccinations are extra important in particular, so make sure your cat is boosted as necessary before you travel.

The USDA has a whole page dedicated to this paperwork and an office you can call to ask any questions you may have, so check it out here.

Some places have alternative options you can investigate. For example, the EU has a Pet Passport system. It's rather similar to the USDA health certificate but is broadly recognized and available throughout the EU. If your trip involves numerous EU countries, getting one of these pet passports might be a good idea.

Get an ISO-certified microchip.

The International Organization for Standardization is the global organization responsible for setting standards for all sorts of things, including technology. Two standards – ISO 11784 and ISO 11785 – are relevant to microchips for pets. They outline things like how the chip needs to be made, and what kind of data, in what formats, it should contain.

You don't need to know what the standards are, but you probably do need to make sure your cat has an ISO-certified microchip. That way, if the worst happens and your fur baby escapes while you're traveling, local vets can scan for a valid chip with information they can read and can find you. Obviously, make sure it has relevant information on it that the vet can use to contact you.

There are a lot of quirks to how microchip numbers and standards are handled, and what databases they connect to, so you might want to familiarize yourself with them, or at least the type and brand of chip your cat has, before you travel.

Check applications, approvals, and timelines.

Some countries essentially let you bring a cat along and just review your documentation at customs. Others require advance approval and an application process you need to have submitted well in advance. This process can take months, so make sure you do your research well in advance of when you're planning to bring your cat to the country with you and have all of your paperwork squared away.

Are There Other Details to Know About Traveling Internationally with Your Cat?

Of course. There will always be more details, so I'll cover everything I can to try to help you travel more smoothly.

Make sure to scout your accommodations ahead of time. With dogs, you have to worry about things like dog parks nearby, how dog-friendly the local establishments are, and so on. Cats don't have the same needs, but you do need to make sure any place you're staying, for short term or long term, allows your cat. You don't want to show up at a hotel, condo, or apartment only to find your cat isn't allowed, right?

Have your accessories ready to go. There's a lot you might want to make sure you have to make travel a smoother experience.

• A sturdy, breathable carrier for your cat while they're being moved throughout airports, planes, and accommodations.
• A collar that is easy to remove for airport security if necessary and reliable enough to stay in place around an anxious kitty.
• A harness, for times when your cat needs to be out of the carrier but still controlled. Make sure you spend some time getting them used to it in advance!
• Folding or collapsible bowls for food and water. Especially for very long flights, you'll probably need to give your fur baby some nourishment.
• A portable litter box and sealable bags. You may not be able to dispose of your cat's waste on a plane, so some backup to secure it without making the flight unpleasant for everyone is a good idea.

Consider the availability of food and medicine. This is especially relevant if your cat is on a special diet for health reasons; you may not be able to find the right kinds of foods or even certain medications where you're traveling. Unfortunately, some places around the world don't give as much consideration or care to cats. You might also want to make sure you have a vet lined up in advance in case something happens. You want to know where to go in an emergency, after all.

Pay attention to the flight planning itself. I have a whole guide on flying with a cat, so check that out and plan ahead. Chances are, if your cat is too big, if you have more than one cat, or if you're on certain airlines, you may not be allowed to bring your cat with you in the cabin, and they may need to fly cargo. Make sure you're planning ahead!

One detail is that some vets might recommend anxiety medications before a flight, especially if it's a longer flight. However, some airlines might prohibit sedating or medicating a pet before a flight because it can become a health risk. Double-check the details.

Give them plenty of time to acclimate to their new environs. Cats are creatures of routine, habit, and stability. Once you arrive at your destination, they will probably find the smallest, darkest space they can to hide in for a while until they feel more comfortable. It can take them days or even weeks to get used to their new home, so make sure to give them that space and time.

If all goes well, you'll have a comforting friend in a new living situation, and you'll only need to repeat the process when you return. Hopefully, all goes well for you! If you have additional advice or perspective, or if you have questions I missed, let me know in the comments as well.

Cat grass is actually a treat for cats, but there's a lot to know about it, so let's give it a look!

What is Cat Grass?

Surprisingly enough, cat grass is exactly what it sounds like: it's grass. For cats!

No, seriously, that's pretty much all it is. There are a handful of different species of grass that have all been branded "cat grass" because it's not a species of grass; it's a category of product.

What makes it different from the grass you have outside? A lot of things, actually.

• The species. I said there are a handful of species of grass labeled cat grass, but the grass you have in your yard will probably be a different variety of grass, which is also probably quite regional to where you live.
• The consistency. Cat grass is a single pot with a single kind of grass in it. A yard is going to have a bunch of different kinds of plants, from clovers to flowers to weeds, and you never know what's safe and what isn't in that mix.
• The cleanliness. Cat grass grown on your own can be carefully controlled for what you put on it. Cat grass from a store likely only used some mild fertilizer, if anything, and is free from harmful pesticides and chemicals that your cat could ingest if they eat grass outside. Oops; spoilers for the purpose of cat grass there.

Cat grass is meant to be a safe way for a cat to indulge in certain urges, while getting some health benefits at the same time.

What Species is Cat Grass?

Cat grass can technically be any species of grass grown for use as a cat treat. Cat grass growers generally pick one of a few common grass species, however.

These species include:

• Arrhenatherum elatius, the oatgrass.
• Hordeum vulgare, the barley grass.
• Triticum aestivum, the wheatgrass.
• Lolium perenne, the ryegrass.

Sometimes, a packet of cat grass seeds might be a mixture of some or all of these rather than just one.

These are all generally known to be safe for cats to consume, and they're relatively fast and easy to grow without having to set up special care conditions. Cat grass can grow just fine with consistent watering and some light from a window, and you don't need much more than that.

What is Cat Grass Used For?

I already spoiled it up above, but it's basically just a treat for cats.

If you're wondering why grass, a plant, can be a treat for obligate carnivores (that is, meat-eaters), it's not actually something we know. There are some theories, though.

The biggest is just that cats were formerly wild animals, and wild animals need to stalk, hunt, and kill their prey to survive. Whether it's a lion hunting a wildebeest in the African savannahs or your neighbor's feral cat colony hunting the local population of songbirds, they pounce, they kill, and they eat what they kill.

Sometimes, a cat will take their prey back to where they live, to feed kittens (or to try to teach you how to hunt.) Other times, they just eat where they sit, if they feel comfortable enough in their position to do so.

Well, while a cat is chowing down on their prey right there in the grasslands or the yard, they aren't exactly being cautious with it. They're probably getting bits of grass in those bites, along with the meat of the creature they caught.

Over time, cats developed the habit of eating more grass after they ate their prey. As it turns out, evolutionarily speaking, cats that ate grass alongside their meals had less digestive upset, had an easier time coughing up hairballs and passing the little bones and hair and feathers caught in their systems, and were generally healthier. So, cats that ate grass passed that habit along, and now most cats have that urge to get a little grass in their diets.

What Are the Benefits of Cat Grass for Cats?

I already kind of mentioned some of these in that last paragraph, but let's go over them in a bit more detail.

Cat grass helps with digestion. This is especially true for cats that eat rodents or birds, because they're going to end up eating things like fur, feathers, and small bones that will otherwise mess with their digestive systems and need to be expelled. Cat grass helps handle these without causing more problems down the line.

Cat grass provides dietary fiber. Fiber is great for helping your fur baby absorb more water when they drink and for helping smooth out digestion in other ways. It's also very helpful for cats that are sick or have diarrhea, as it can help pull water out of their intestines and firm up their stool.

Cat grass contains trace vitamins and minerals. A variety of nutrients cats can use, including folic acid, vitamins A and D, and a handful of trace minerals, are all present in cat grass. Your cat can get what they need from the food you give them, but wild cats get some of it from grass as well, and the instinct to consume grass will stay even if your cat has robust food at home.

Cat grass can help soothe the stomach. Grass can also help steady your fur baby's stomach when they're eating, especially if they ate too fast and now they've got some tummy rumbles bothering them.

Cat grass might potentially help ease pain. Chlorophyll, the thing that makes plants green, has some antibiotic, anti-pain, and anti-inflammation properties. It's nowhere near strong enough to replace modern medicine, but it's something that can help a cat that just isn't feeling quite comfortable.

There's also some thinking that if a cat has internal parasites in the digestive system, like a tapeworm, the grass can actually wrap around and pull out that parasite. Again, it's not as valuable as an actual antiparasitic medication, but it's not nothing.

Other than the dietary and health benefits, there are a few behavioral benefits. Finding, playing with, and chewing on cat grass can be an enrichment activity, especially if you move where you keep the grass. Some people find that cats who eat cat grass have better breath. And, of course, if your cat is busy chewing on cat grass, they aren't eating the plants you want to keep around.

Is Cat Grass Safe for Cats?

Now we get to the biggest question: is cat grass even safe? After all, cats are prone to chew on all kinds of plants, including plants like the toxic houseplants I listed in this guide. So, if your cat can't instinctively know when a plant is safe or not, how do you know cat grass is safe?

Fortunately, the answer is yes.

Cat grass is a selection of grasses specifically chosen because they're fast-growing, hearty, can survive being chewed on, and are safe for cats to eat. It's a lot safer than any random house plants or, worse, the grass in your yard, which could have all sorts of chemicals on it, and you'd never know.

Just make sure to get your cat grass from a trustworthy source, or grow your own. It's quite easy to grow, even.

Are There Side Effects of Cat Grass?

Not really! If your cat eats way too much grass, then they might throw up some of it, but that's basically the worst that can happen.

How Can You Grow Your Own Cat Grass?

If you don't want to keep buying cat grass every few weeks when the current batch has been eaten down and dies, you'll want to get in the habit of growing your own. Fortunately, it's very simple. All you need is:

• Small pots, preferably durable, resilient pots that won't break if your cat knocks over a pot. Some people like heavy pots that can't be tipped over, and others resign themselves to cleaning up spilled dirt on occasion. It's up to you.
• Cat grass seeds, which can be bought at nearly any nursery or at any greenhouse online.
• Dirt. A generic seed starting blend is all you need, and you can buy large sacks of it for cheap.
• A spray bottle and a small watering can.
• A good source of light. If you don't have a convenient window to grow your cat grass, you'll want to invest in a small grow light.

To grow cat grass, fill a pot with soil and scatter some grass seeds across it. You don't need a ton, but you want enough to make the pot somewhat dense with plants. Cover the seeds in another quarter inch of soil and water it thoroughly. After this, keep the soil damp but not saturated. The seeds should sprout in around 3-7 days.

After that point, make sure they get bright light, and keep them misted with a spray bottle. Once the grass is around four inches tall, you can start giving it to your cat. Start new pots every couple of weeks, so you always have one ready to go; cat grass lasts for about two weeks before your cat will either have eaten it down or it will die back on its own.

Alternatively, you can check out some of our products:

• Cat Grass Growing Kit
• Cat Grass Growing Kit Plus
• Cat Grass Growing Kit Ultimate

These kits give you everything you need to grow grass, including pots, substrate, seeds, and a spray bottle, as well as instructions on how to grow the grass and when to give it to your fur baby. We make it easy for you!

Cat Grass FAQs

Now, let's answer some of the more common questions I've seen about cat grass. If you have one that I didn't cover above, feel free to ask it in the comments, and I'll get back to you!

Are cat grass and catnip the same thing?

Not at all! Catnip is distantly related to mint and contains a chemical called nepetalactone, which is the one that drives cats wild if they're receptive to it. I have a whole guide to catnip here if you're interested in learning more. Cat grass, meanwhile, is a cereal grain plant when it's still young. Wheat, barley, rye, and oats are all cat grasses. If those plants survived long enough to seed, you'd be able to harvest those grains!

Are there different kinds of cat grass?

Yes and no. While there are different species of grasses that are called cat grass, they're all more or less the same kind of thing. All cat grasses are cereal grain plants when they're young and tender enough for a cat to enjoy taking a nibble.

Is cat grass safe to give your cats?

Yes, assuming it's actually cat grass. This is why you need to buy it from a reputable seller or grow your own. If you're buying from someone you don't know or trust, you never know if the plants you grow are actually cat grass or if they're something else that could potentially be toxic.

Additionally, you need to make sure you aren't just letting your cat out to chew on your yard. You never know what kinds of parasites, insects, chemicals, or poisons in the soil can seep into or linger on the plants in your yard, and they can make your fur baby sick. Stick with controlled grass indoors, please!

Will cat grass help prevent your cats from chewing on other plants?

Possibly! Your cat is going to explore and chew on whatever they want, so the goal is to make sure the cat grass is easier and more accessible to them whenever they want to chew on some greenery. If they can wander to their favorite sunny windowsill and find some cat grass, they're a lot more likely to be content with it when the alternative is breaking into a closed room and finding a high shelf with your other plants.

Did I miss any questions you may have about cat grass? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you with an answer as soon as possible!

Try as we might, it's so often difficult to fully subdue the unpleasant odors that come with the litterbox. Fortunately, there are a few things you can try that you may not have thought of before, and might help do the job.

#1: Change the Litter

First up is the simplest possible solution: just go change the litter! When a litter box smells bad, it's a good indication that it's time to change it. Usually, you should be changing the litter in your cat's litter box at least twice a week. If you have more than one cat and they often use the same box, you'll need to change it even more often. (Of course, if you have more than one cat, you should have more than one litter box, too.)

Some litters, especially the clumping style, are meant to be scoopable to avoid litter waste. Instead of dumping out the whole box, you scoop the clumped-up nastiness, discard it, and then change the full thing every few weeks. If you use this kind of litter and your box still smells, it's definitely time to clean it out. In fact, you probably want to fully wash and sanitize the box as well as change the litter. It's a dirty job, but someone has to do it!

#2: Change the Litter

No, you're not experiencing déjà vu; this is the same headline. But, this time, I mean change the type of litter you're using. You might go from clumping to crystals, or from a natural sawdust or newspaper-style litter to clay litter, or something else. Check out my post, Clumps or Crystals: Which Cat Litter Type Works Best, for more information on the different kinds of litter.

There are generally two reasons why your litter might have poor odor control. One is that some kinds of litter just aren't meant for that. People use these kinds of litter more for the safety, ethics, or environmental concerns and to deal with the odor. But, if you can't handle the odor, you might need to switch to a litter with better odor control.

The other is if the litter is unpleasant for your fur baby in some way, and they're actually going outside or at the edge of the litter box. The odor might be coming from the outside or underneath the litter box, not inside it, but it can be hard to tell.

Either way, changing the type of litter you use might be a good solution.

#3: Put the Litter Box in an Enclosure

Another option is to put your litter box in some kind of enclosure. Litter boxes with lids, flaps, or even a simple curtain can serve two purposes. First, they help isolate the litter box from the rest of your house so the odors don't spread. Second, they help keep the litter box out of sight. Some people find it intensely unpleasant to see a litter box, so this can help.

This is another topic I've written about. Check out 5 Clever Ideas to Hide Your Cat's Litter Box in an Enclosure for more information.

Keep in mind that some cats really don't like having their litter box hidden in an enclosed space. They're comfortable in a small space, but they aren't comfortable with the enclosed smells, so this can increase the chance of litter issues if you don't keep it clean.

#4: Put the Litter Box in a Better Location

If you have the option, you might want to try putting the litter box in a different location. I know this isn't always possible if you live in a small apartment or small home, but if you have the space, finding a better place for it is a good option.

What is the right location? Generally, you want a well-ventilated location that is away from the living and dining spaces in your home. This way you aren't dealing with odors where you spend your time or where you cook and eat. Ventilation is especially important because it helps keep those odors from building up and concentrating.

If you have the opportunity, keeping a window cracked nearby or even installing a vent fan similar to a bathroom fan can help a lot.

#5: Change Your Cat's Diet

We are what we eat. Cat poo and cat pee both reflect what your fur baby is eating, and if their diet doesn't wholly agree with them, it can have an impact on the odors they leave behind.

Consider talking to your vet about dietary changes, especially if your cat has any health issues that could be affected by a change in diet.

#6: Change the Litter Box Itself

There are two reasons you want to change your litter box.

The first is that litter boxes wear down over time. When you scrub them clean, whatever you use to scrub will abrade the surface. Even if you're just hosing it down and you're not scrubbing it, your cat will dig and scratch to bury their waste, and their little claws can leave scratches on the surface of the box. Many litters can be very mildly abrasive, too, and can damage a box over time.

All of the little scratches and grooves in the box are places where bacteria can grow, and those bacteria cause the worst odors a litter box can produce. So, if your box doesn't seem to get clean and odor-free when you clean it, it might be time for a new one. Usually, the best practice is to get a new box every year.

The second reason is if there's an issue and your cat isn't behaving right in the box. For example, if they splash when they go and pee gets on the edges or over the side of the box, you might want a higher-sided box or a box with a lid. If your cat is larger, you might need a box with more surface area so they have room. Getting a box they find comfortable helps eliminate litter issues and keep odors down.

#7: Consider Toilet Training

Did you know that you can train a cat to use the toilet? It's true! There are "litter boxes" that sit over the toilet seat, so when your cat goes to do their business, it just falls through into the toilet and can be flushed easily.

Just make sure you never flush litter. Since litter is made to absorb liquid, it can very quickly clog up your pipes and cause all kinds of expensive plumbing problems.

This does only work if you have a cat that can take to the training, if you don't mind having to move the contraption when you need to go, and if you aren't bothered by seeing a full toilet when you walk in. It's definitely not a solution for everyone, but it's an option you can try.

#8: Try Outdoor Training

Another training-based option is to train your cat to go outside like a dog. You'll need to supervise them and make sure you have a place for them to go, but they can be trained to think of going outside as going to the litter box.

Just make sure this doesn't transition into just letting your cat go outside unsupervised. Outdoor cats suffer a lot in our world and are at risk from everything from cars to predators to diseases. It's just not healthy for them or for our environment.

#9: Check for Medical Issues

Obviously, no one wants to think that their fur baby is having a hard time. One of the difficult realities of being a cat parent is that cats really don't like to admit when they're feeling bad. They might be a little more standoffish, or they might go and hide themselves away, but it's only in times of real distress that they'll show signs.

That doesn't mean that you can't figure it out, though. You know what they do when they're happy and healthy, so if you notice behavioral changes, it might indicate that they're sick or in pain.

More importantly, litter box behavior and their leavings can be another sign. Extreme odor, diarrhea, and other problems – including missing the litter box entirely – can be signs of an illness or infection. It very well could be worth talking to your vet!

I don't have space here to go over everything, but fortunately, I wrote a whole guide for you to read. Cat Poop Issues: What is Normal, Constipation, Diarrhea, and More. Check it out, and let me know if you have any questions!

Cat Litter Odor Control FAQs

Now, let's answer any of the lingering questions you might have.

Why does cat litter smell so bad?

It's a bunch of different things. First, cat pee is just really intense, and ammonia – one of the primary byproducts of their diet – smells really, really strong and really, really bad to humans. It's just something we're very sensitive to because it's naturally dangerous to us. Think of it as a biological warning to stay away.

Especially foul smells might mean your cat needs a different diet, or you need a different litter, or even that you just need to change the litter more often.

How often should you clean your litter box?

As often as it needs it! If the box smells, clean it.

Depending on the kind of litter you use, you may need to scoop it daily and change it weekly, or scoop it every 2-3 days and change it every 2-3 weeks. Other litters need to be entirely replaced every day or two.

Cleaning the whole box itself should also be done at LEAST monthly, if not weekly. The longer you wait, the worse it will be when you need to clean it, and trust me, you want to make that job easier on yourself.

Should you use a deodorizer?

There are a lot of different products like Febreze and other odor-control sprays and chemicals that can help, but at a cost. The problem is, while they cover up litter box odors for you, the scent of the spray can be very strong and very irritating to your fur baby and might cause them to avoid the litter box. It's usually not worth it, in my experience.

Can baking soda help eliminate litter box odors?

Yes, but it's not necessarily as helpful as you think.

The best thing to do is put a small layer of baking soda in the bottom of the litter box before you fill it with litter. That way, anything that seeps down past the litter can be absorbed and deodorized by the baking soda. This needs to be replaced every time you replace your litter, and it might mean cleaning the box more often.

The other option is to leave an open box of baking soda near the litter box. This is a common technique, and it can work, but it's not necessarily as useful as you might hope. Plus, you risk a mess if your fur baby knocks it over, and if you're in a humid environment, it can absorb moisture from the air and stop working pretty quickly. Still, it might be worth a try.

So, what do you think? Have you tried any of the options above, and if so, how did they work for you? Do you have something to add that I forgot? Let me know in the comments! It's a problem we all have to deal with, after all, so the more we help each other out, the better off we'll all be.

What you don't see is all of the other cats, the ones that scream and cry every second they're in a car, having the most miserable time of their lives. For a good reason, these videos don't make it to the big stage.

No one likes to make their cat suffer, but sometimes, there's just no way around a car trip. Whether it's a quick journey to the vet or a move across the state or country, your poor fur baby is going to be stressed and afraid, right? Or is there a way to train your cat to be more accepting of a car ride?

How to Train a Cat to Enjoy the Car

Some cats enjoy car rides and have a keen sense of adventure already. Most cats, though, need to be trained to enjoy the experience. Fortunately, this is both very possible and not terribly difficult, as long as you do it right. It takes a little while, though, so you need to be training your fur baby well in advance of any trip you need to take.

The first thing you want to do is lay the groundwork with a couple of useful forms of training that will make it easier for your cat to handle a road trip.

Leash and Harness Training for Cats

Start with leash and harness training. Leash and harness training is a critical part of keeping your fur baby safe outside. Cats don't really respond well to a traditional collar leash like a dog might, but a body harness works well, with the caveat that they need to be used to it. Cats that aren't used to something like a harness will think they're being pressed on and will usually just flop over, though some may struggle to escape.

Harness training is best done early, but you can get even an older adult cat used to it with enough time. Once they're comfortable with it, you can be a lot more confident when you need to keep them close while at a rest stop, in a hotel, or just wandering around your vehicle.

Carrier Training for Cats

Once leash training is down, work on carrier training.

Truthfully, many cat parents work on carrier training before harness training, and that's fine, too. It doesn't matter what order you do it in as long as it gets done.

• Start by getting a comfortable, strong, and reliable carrier. There are thousands of options out there, so you can find one that suits your preferences fairly easily.
• Leave the carrier out and open so they can get used to it. Don't try to force them into it; make sure it's a safe location for them.
• Start taking them on short trips with the carrier, such as around the block. It's important that their experiences aren't all terrible trips to the vet!

Once they're aware that the carrier can lead to somewhere fun and enjoyable – and usually has a treat at the end – they'll be a lot more comfortable with it. I know I'm glossing over a lot here, but I have a whole guide to carrier training you can read here.

Car Ride Training for Cats

While you're doing this, you should also do some basic car training. Generally, this starts as an add-on to carrier training, bringing them in their carrier around the block or on a short trip, always with a reward to help keep them happy.

You can gradually expand this to longer trips, trips to the vet, trips to visit friends, and more. The more positive experiences your cat has with the carrier and car, the better.

Travel Litter and Food Training for Cats

Finally, you should do some training for a mobile litter box and feeding mat. You may not need much training for this, or you may want to verify it works.

Basically, for longer trips, you need to have ways to feed your cat and ways for them to relieve themselves. There are travel bowls and travel litter boxes you can use effectively, but you need to have them in advance and get your fur baby used to using them; otherwise, they might not know what they're meant for. Fortunately, this is usually the easiest part of the training process.

Getting Your Trip Planning in Order

Before going on a long road trip with a cat, there are several things you should do to get your affairs in order.

First, bring your fur baby to the vet to make sure they're in good health. Trips, even with a well-trained cat, can be stressful and exacerbate health issues and illness. This can also help you plan how often you'll need to stop, especially if your fur baby has anxiety or an incontinence issue.

Second, ensure they're up to date on their vaccinations, and make sure they're microchipped with the most accurate information. Getting ID tags on a collar is a good idea too. If all goes well, your cat will be by your side for the entire trip. If things go poorly, though, and they get lost, you want as much chance as possible that they're found and you're contacted.

Third, know where you're going to be stopping a long the way, including both pit stops for potty breaks, and pet-friendly hotels to stay in overnight. Some pet-friendly hotels include certain La Quintas and Hilton hotels, but always call to ask ahead of time – the last thing you need is for your overnight stay to be cut off because of your fur baby, and you absolutely can't just leave them in the car overnight.

Fourth, gather all of the relevant items you'll need, including paperwork, medications, toys, grooming items, and so on. It can help to keep an eye on everything you use throughout a given week and add it to a checklist, as well as certain essentials like paperwork.

Extra Tips for a Smooth Road Trip

Now let's talk about a few added tips that can make your cat-based road trip experience a little better.

Consider purchasing puppy pads. These are absorbent pads that soak up and help deodorize urine. Lining your cat's carrier with these will help deal with any accidents your fur baby may have, especially if you can't train the fear out of them ahead of time. You'll still probably want something like a towel to separate your cat from the pads, in case they find it to be an unpleasant texture, but you can play around and experiment with these layouts.

You may also want to skip breakfast on the day of the trip. If your cat isn't fully used to a car ride, the motion they experience might give them motion sickness, and skipping breakfast helps reduce the chances of vomiting.

Don't open the windows when you're traveling at speed; instead, use your car's HVAC. Cats have very sensitive ears, and road noise is immense and very stressful for them. Similarly, never leave them alone in a car; heat can build up to lethal levels in a very short amount of time. Remember, cats are quite sensitive to changes in temperature.

If you have more than one cat, make sure you use more than one carrier. Even if your cats get along under normal circumstances, a longer road trip can make them frustrated and scared, and they may lash out at one another. The last thing you need to deal with on the highway is a catfight!

Finally, be VERY careful about allowing your cat to roam about the vehicle. While it's adorable to see them perched on a windowsill or lounging in the back window, it can be dangerous if they get up on the dashboard in front of you, try to give you face nuzzles while you're navigating, or crawl under your feet and disrupt the pedals. Plus, there's always the risk of accidents or other issues if they're loose, and those are miserable to deal with.

Cats in Cars FAQ

To wrap up, let's answer some of the most common questions about traveling with a cat, especially long distances.

Why Do Cats Dislike Car Rides?

There are a few reasons. Some cats don't like the sense of motion when they aren't in control of that motion; it's basically motion sickness for people, but in cats. Others don't like the noise of a car. Many times, though, it comes down to your cat not being used to the carrier, the car, or the ride.

Add to this the fact that many cats only experience car rides when an unpleasant vet trip is on the other end, and you can see why they wouldn't enjoy the experience! Fortunately, you can train all of this out of most cars.

Can Cats be Trained to Enjoy a Car Ride?

Certainly! You can do a surprising amount of training with cats as long as you take it slow, use plenty of treats as rewards along the way, and maintain consistency with your training.

As long as you aren't just hopping into an immediate huge road trip, you'll usually be better off than you might expect.

What Are the Four Kinds of Training Necessary for a Road Trip with a Cat?

To make sure a cat is trained to handle a road trip, especially a longer one, you need four kinds of training.

These are leash and harness training, carrier training, car ride training, and travel litter training. I go into greater detail with these above.

Are There Ways to Help Keep a Cat Calm on a Road Trip?

Of course! There are a few options, and you should talk to your vet before you try them out.

Some options include:

• A thundershirt. These are essentially just clothes you can use to swaddle your fur baby. Swaddling in a "purrito" is awkward for a longer trip, but a thundershirt allows a bit more mobility, so you can leave them in it for a little longer. You still want breaks to allow them to stretch and move, though!
• A calming collar. These use cat pheromones to help keep your cat in a calmer mental state. They don't always work, so make sure your cat is receptive to them.
• CBD oil. CBD is broadly used as an anti-anxiety medication, and while results can vary from cat to cat, it's something you might consider.
• Catnip. Some cats find catnip very calming; others go crazy for it. If your cat snoozes on the 'nip, it can be a great option.
• Medications for anxiety. There are a variety of mild sedatives and anti-anxiety medications your vet might prescribe if nothing else works. Again, talk to your vet about your options.

Which options work best will depend on your fur baby, so be sure to test your options ahead of time.

What Items Should You Pack for a Road Trip with a Cat?

There are a lot of items to consider.

Here's a checklist!

• A carrier your cat is comfortable in.
• Food and water.
• Food and water bowls.
• Treats to reward your cat for a job well done along the way.
• Litter, a litter box, and litter tools.
• Puppy pads and mats for cleanliness.
• A harness and leash.
• Cat toys to keep them occupied and distracted.
• A cat bed, especially one they've used, and is soaked with their scent.
• Anti-anxiety aids like CBD, medications, or catnip.
• A scratching box so they don't scratch your car's upholstery.
• Any medications they need.
• IDs, paperwork, vaccination records, and other records.

If you have something to add to this list – or a tip you've developed from your own long road trips with your fur baby – let me know in the comments below!

There are ways to train your fur baby to not do those things, but it's just that: training. For example, I wrote a whole post on how you can get them to stop scratching your good furniture, which you can read here.

One of the most common pieces of advice for dissuading a cat from some behavior or another is to reach for a spray bottle and give them a quick spritz. The idea is that it's unpleasant enough that your cat will learn after it happens a few times that they shouldn't be doing that behavior.

The trouble is, this is a pretty terrible way to train a cat. Here are five reasons why you absolutely should ditch the spray bottle and try a different form of training.

#5: It's Stressful

One of the biggest reasons why you should ditch the spray bottle is that it's a very stressful experience. Most cats aren't exactly fond of being wet, especially unexpectedly.

Outdoor cats caught in the rain often find trees, bushes, or porches to camp out on or under until the rain lets up, and cats inside are going to avoid the shower or bath whenever they can. Some may like the faucet, but only on their own terms and as a source of water to drink, not just to dip their face in.

Remember, too, that a sudden spray from a spray bottle isn't silent. Often, there's a sort of hissing noise attached to it. It's not just about the noise, though; it's about the noise coming from you. Do you like being hissed at? Neither do they.

Often, the spray bottle is just a nasty surprise and a stressful event. Your cat is likely to stop their behavior, sure, but they'll also probably flee, hide, and might not come back out for hours at a time.

Stress is also terrible for other reasons. A stressed cat is more likely to have anxiety issues. They might lash out more or generally be less sociable. They may start to have litter box issues. Increased aggression isn't unusual either.

There are also long-term health impacts to chronic stress, as well, like the increased risk of urinary tract infections and other issues.

#4: It Might Not Be Appropriate

Another reason why the spray bottle isn't a good idea is that you might be misusing it.

Now, far be it from me to tell you how to train your cat or what behaviors you should and shouldn't tolerate. Your living situation, your cat's personality, and the unique issues you face are all specific to you, and you have to make the best decisions for you, your fur baby, and your family.

But, there are a lot of people who try to use some kind of discipline (technically called "positive punishment") like a spray bottle to dissuade a cat from things you can never train them to stop doing. Behaviors such as:

• Hissing. Cats hiss when they're afraid or stressed, and spraying them with a spray bottle is just going to make it worse and further associate you with a source of stress.
• Scratching. There is no way to get a cat to not scratch. It's such a deeply ingrained instinctive behavior that even declawed cats will try it. You have to redirect scratching, not stop it entirely.
• Exploring. Yes, sometimes your cat gets up on furniture or in places they shouldn't be, and you want to dissuade that, but there are better ways to do it than trying to spray them down.

Often, this means you're punishing your cat for something they simply cannot help, a natural behavior and a reaction that you're only making worse.

If your cat is anxious, spraying them just makes them more anxious. If your cat is exploring, spraying them isn't going to get them to stop exploring, it's just going to mean they're damp while they do it.

#3: It Hurts Your Relationship

Perhaps the worst outcome of spraying your cat with a spray bottle is that they draw the wrong association.

They aren't necessarily recognizing that their behavior triggers the spray, especially if they can do the behavior and not get sprayed (for example, when you aren't home.)

No, what they're doing is associating an annoying and stressful behavior with you. They're only sprayed when you're around, right? What else could it be?

At first, you might not notice anything wrong. But then, maybe you notice that instead of curling up on your lap, they start to prefer to lay on the other side of the couch.

Maybe when you try to pet them, they're a little more standoffish. Maybe they're more defensive, and when you make a sudden noise or movement, it scares them more than it used to.

Over time, you eventually realize that they're avoiding you. They aren't enjoying your presence and comfort like they used to.

All you've done is added stress and strain to your bond with your fur baby, and taught them that you're not always safe and comfortable.

#2: It Creates an Aversion to Water

Most cats – though not all cats – dislike water as it is. They prefer to keep themselves clean and don't take kindly to puddles, baths, or other immersion in water.

If they slip and fall when you're in the bath, and they're trying to explore, you have a wet and panicking cat struggling to get out, and that can be dangerous for both of you.

When you make water a source of unpleasantness, though, you may be developing longer-term fears and aversions in your kitty. Maybe they will start avoiding the bathroom entirely.

Maybe they hate it when you water the houseplants, especially if you use a spray bottle to mist them. Maybe they start to run and hide when you do the dishes or take a shower. In the most extreme cases, they may even start to avoid their water dish.

#1: It Doesn't Work

So here's the kicker: even if all of these other drawbacks don't dissuade you, this one should. It just doesn't work!

For one thing, one of the biggest and most important factors in training is consistency. To successfully train a behavior, cat, dog, or any other animal, you need to be consistent with enforcement.

That means any time your cat does the behavior, you need to be there to redirect it or stop them and reward them for not performing that behavior.

So what happens if they do it at night when they're prowling in their little nocturnal lives, and you're asleep? What happens if they do it when you're at work, out grocery shopping, or just in another room watching TV? Nothing. That's why they tend to associate it more with you than with the behavior.

It's also possible that your cat won't care. Many people tell stories of trying to use a spray bottle to stop their cat from doing something destructive, and while it works the first few times, eventually, your kitty just realizes it's a little bit of water and nothing else.

At that point? It's no longer a punishment. Some cats even learn to enjoy it or make a game of it. They find being sprayed to be pleasant, actually, and so they start to intentionally seek out ways to get you to spray.

Honestly, this is the better outcome. You'd rather have your cat think of it as a fun game rather than associating you with something unpleasant and stressful. Either way, though, it's an association with you, not the behavior, so it's not really an effective way to train a cat.

What to Do Instead

Using a spray bottle was, for a long time, recommended as a way to dissuade a cat from a behavior, because it was a safer alternative than something worse, like swatting at your cat, scruffing them, or otherwise doing something that is even closer to abuse.

But, the more time passes, the more standards change, and these days even spraying a cat is viewed as abuse by some people.

The question is, what can you do instead? Obviously, your cat has some behaviors you want to dissuade, but if a spray bottle isn't the answer, what is?

First, figure out what is causing the behavior you want to stop. Some behaviors are natural, like exploration, jumping up onto high places, and scratching. There's no trigger for these, and because of that, they aren't behaviors you can stop.

Other behaviors, like hissing, swatting, intentional destruction, and similar actions, tend to have more specific triggers. Maybe an item they try to destroy is making a noise that bothers them, or maybe they're hissing because they're stressed and startled.

If the behavior is triggered by a specific stressor, your job is to remove that stressor. For example, maybe you have a plug-in air freshener that sprays the air every hour, and the noise it makes sounds like a hiss and stresses out your fur baby. Once you remove it, the behavior will stop.

If the behavior is one without a removable trigger, you can proceed with the next step. That step is to watch for signs the behavior is going to happen.

For example, if your cat loves to jump up onto the kitchen counters and you want to train them not to, watch for when they're perched and poised to jump.

This is where consistency comes into play. You need to be available to watch for any instance of the behavior happening, or make sure someone else is around to monitor for it, so that the right redirection can take place.

At this point, you redirect the behavior with a reward. If your cat is poised to jump up onto the counter, toss a treat behind them. They'll very likely be distracted and turn for the treat and will forget about jumping up.

Toys may also work, though we all know our fur babies often ignore toys if they aren't in the mood. That's why a small, high-value treat can be the better choice.

Now, this isn't easy, and you're going to need to keep at it for a good long while. Remember, too, that some behaviors will never go away.

You can't stop a cat from scratching any more than you can stop them from meowing, purring, or being fuzzy and adorable.

Remember, as with all animal training, you need to use positive reinforcement to redirect the behavior into something preferable. Punishment doesn't work and is often stressful, cruel, and even dangerous, depending on the kind of punishment.

You're distracting them and rewarding them for choosing not to do something they were about to do.

• Don't forget to provide alternatives to some behaviors. Your cat is going to scratch, so make sure they have a dedicated scratching surface to use instead of the furniture.
• Make sure to track down specific triggers causing stress and negative behaviors and remove them whenever possible.

It takes time, patience, and consistency, but it's the only real way to go about it. Plus, it maintains and even builds your bond with your beloved fur baby, and who doesn't want that?

Finally, if nothing you do seems to work and you can't get your cat to redirect their behaviors, can't identify triggers, and can't seem to figure out what's wrong, talk to a vet or cat behaviorist.

There may be something else going on, like a trigger they can hear, but you can't, a scent that bothers them, or even a medical issue. This is especially true if this is a behavior they didn't use to exhibit but started suddenly.

Have you ever dealt with a misbehaving feline and needed to get into redirection training? Tell me your story! I love hearing about your pets and their adventures in the comments.

Adopting and taking care of a stray cat is incredibly fulfilling, and it's definitely not uncommon. There's an entire subreddit dedicated to the so-called Cat Distribution System, even. Sometimes, the cats find you.

If you want to adopt a stray, there are a lot of things you should do, and a bunch you shouldn't, if you want all to go well. So, let's talk about it!

Stray vs Feral

Before getting into the tips I have for adopting a stray cat, it's worth briefly touching on the difference between stray cats and feral cats. While many people use the terms interchangeably, there's a pretty distinct difference between these two types of "community cats."

Stray cats are cats that are at least somewhat socialized, but are now living on their own outdoors for some reason. Maybe they were abandoned, maybe they got lost. The point is, they have had some contact with humans and know how to interact, even if they aren't entirely comfortable in doing so.

Feral cats, on the other hand, have had either no human contact or have spent so many years without human contact that they're essentially wild animals. They tend to be more fearful and defensive, and even if you get into their good graces and adopt them, they're still likely to have firm boundaries, like an aversion to belly rubs, a keen defensiveness about their personal space, and a preference of staying at arm's length.

There are a few important differences in how to handle ferals versus strays; ferals are harder to get to trust you and take longer to warm up to you, and may be a lot harder – and potentially more dangerous – to try to wrangle in the first place. If you aren't well-versed in dealing with feral animals, you need to be cautious of feral cats, while strays tend to be easier to socialize.

How will you know the difference? Well, if you're considering adopting a stray cat, chances are it's not feral because a feral cat isn't going to let you get anywhere close to it.

Note that for the purposes of this post, I'm mostly talking about adopting a stray off the street. Several of the steps in this post focus on seeking the original family of the animal and taking initial care steps, but if you're adopting a stray that was surrendered to a shelter, the shelter will have done a lot of that for you already. Adopting from a shelter is generally the better way to go, but as the Cat Delivery System above shows, that's not always how it works out.

Anyway, with that out of the way, let's talk about the do's and don'ts of adopting stray cats.

DO Try to Find the Cat's Home

Before considering adopting a stray, the absolute first thing you should do – after basic necessities, of course – is trying to find out if the cat is a lost pet or beloved runaway and has a home they should be returned to. Cats love to explore; they sneak out through cracked doors or open windows all the time, and sometimes, they go on even bigger adventures.

All the while, there are pet parents and potentially children suffering in the absence of their beloved feline family member. As much as you might like to care for the cat yourself, you'd much rather make their day bringing them home, right?

Obviously, if the cat has a collar, you know better. But what you might not see is if the cat has a microchip. So, your first order of business should be taking the cat to the vet to get them scanned for a chip. If they have a chip, that chip should have contact information for the cat's family and can make it easy to reach out and return their feline friend.

If the cat has no chip, that doesn't mean they're free and clear, though. You should still do at least a few of these:

• Post on your city's local Facebook page and in Lost Pet groups.
• Post on your local Nextdoor for lost and found pets.
• Post on your local subreddit if there is one for your area.
• Contact local vets and see if they have a notice for the lost animal.
• Make and print out some "found cat" posters to put up around your neighborhood and in frequently visited local businesses.
• Check if there are lost pet notifications with the local police department and animal control.

How long you keep up your efforts and how hard you look is up to you. It's certainly possible that the cat has no active family or home or that the family moved away and will never see the posts. It's always good to make a good-faith effort to find their home, though.

What if the cat has a family? You might be bonding with the fuzzy feline, but it's still almost always better to give them back. In rare cases, you may be able to negotiate a hand-over, particularly if there's some reason, such as one spouse passing away and the other not particularly wanting the cat. Otherwise, though, just feel good about reuniting them.

If you find that your heart grew three sizes after experiencing even just a couple of days of having a cat in your home, why not take a trip to your local shelter? I can pretty much guarantee you they have plenty of local strays and abandoned cats in need of homes, and this is the perfect time for you to pick one up.

DO Double-Check Local Laws

Depending on where you live, there may be laws as to how long you need to keep up efforts to find the family of a stray and how long you have to have been caring for them before they legally can become yours. Your local animal shelters will likely know.

These laws and regulations can vary from city to city, county to county, and state to state, so I can't really give you details here.

DO Bring the Cat to a Vet

I already mentioned bringing the cat to the vet to check for a microchip, but it's a good idea to bring them in for a full checkup regardless. You want to check for and address issues like fleas, worms, and other parasites, as well as any injuries or diseases, malnutrition, and more.

You can also have them checked to see if they're intact or if they were previously spayed/neutered (and if there are signs that they were a catch-and-release, like a clipped ear). There are also various tests you can run to check for things like FIV or other illnesses that can dramatically impact the needs of the cat when you're caring for them.

Fortunately, most vets are more than happy to do all of this, though with the current widespread vet shortage, many might not be able to take you on as a permanent patient afterward.

DO Get the Necessities

While bringing a cat into your home can be done with a bare minimum of makeshift items, it's a good idea to make sure you have the real necessities as soon as possible.

Necessities include:

• A litter box, if not more than one. Generally, you want one litter box for general use and one per cat if you have more than one cat. Some cats end up territorial around "their" box, and you don't want accidents because of it.
• Bowls for food and water, preferably wide-based and difficult to knock over.
• Food. If the cat has been eating food at a shelter or from a home that puts food out for strays, try to match the food if you can; otherwise, get something healthy and inoffensive to minimize digestive upset.
• Scratching posts to help give the cat something to scratch while you train them not to scratch the furniture.
• Grooming supplies. Many strays will need some solid grooming, including the potential for sanitary trims, nail clipping, and plenty of brushing.
• A carrier. You need something to keep the cat in for trips to the vet, after all.

Other items, like toys, treats, and catnip, can come soon but don't need to be in your immediate first purchase of supplies if you don't want to foot the entire bill right off the bat.

DON'T Rush the Cat

Most stray cats, unless they're very young kittens, are going to have habits, behaviors, boundaries, and a keen sense of independence that comes from having lived and survived on their own for however long they were living on the streets. They may also be shy, standoffish, or just not want to be touched.

The faster you try to treat them like a housecat, by petting them, picking them up, and otherwise bothering them, the more likely they are to develop negative associations with you. Often, the stray cat will hide and be averse to touch for days or weeks. The process of winning their trust and bonding with them can be a slow and time-consuming adventure.

To that end, it can be important to learn a cat's body language and figure out exactly how it applies to the stray you're working on adopting. It's also a very good idea to have some safe space set aside for them, where they can go to retreat and feel comfortable and where you won't bother them.

DON'T Dive Into New Food Right Away

Stray cats are often used to eating whatever scraps, garbage, birds, rodents, and insects they can find. Many are eating unhealthy diets or are malnourished, and it's not uncommon for some to have low-grade poisoning from contaminated foods.

Food – good, real food, along with treats – is a key way you can start to win their trust. But, you also have to be careful not to make any of the common food-based mistakes, such as:

• Feeding inconsistently. Your goal is to be viewed right away as the unfailing, regular provider of food.
• Feeding too much. Cats that have experienced food insecurity are more likely to gorge themselves and make themselves sick.
• Overdoing it with the treats. While you certainly want to have treats on hand for rewards, making them too common can be a problem later on.

Food will play an important role in building trust, so try to make sure it doesn't turn against them.

DO Be Patient with Behavioral Problems

Stray cats are rarely well-trained, and even if they were trained before they ended up on the streets, some of those behaviors might no longer be well-reinforced. You need to be patient and understanding about their behaviors, from exploring to scratching to litter accidents.

In many ways, you'll effectively be training a new kitten, except an older cat has behaviors already ingrained in them that can be harder to counteract, and they may not take to training as quickly. It can still be done – you can always teach an animal new tricks as long as they aren't going senile – but you have to be patient and consistent with them.

In the meantime, don't be afraid to clean up the occasional accident. Remember, as well, that cat-proofing your home is an ongoing process unless you have other cats already.

DON'T Adopt a Stray if You're Not Financially Stable

Adopting an animal is a long-term commitment, and it's one you need to be well aware of before you take the leap. If you can't guarantee that you can care for the stray, you need to instead work with a local rescue or humane society to find them a loving home that can.

It sucks to hear, and I know that many people adopt animals when they really shouldn't. Still, nothing is more heartbreaking than a cat that is just learning to trust again, having to be given up for adoption or, worse, put back on the streets because the vet bills, food, and other costs are too much for you. Do what's best for the cat!

Have you ever adopted a stray cat? If so, what was your experience like? I'd love to hear all your stories about your fur babies, so be sure to leave those in the comments section below!

Cleaning Their Mouths

When you have a bit of food stuck on your lips, a drip of sauce, or a bit of powder from chips or something, you lick your lips to clean them off, right? Well, most people do, though some take a napkin and put it to work. Cats don't use napkins, though, so they resort to their tongues for cleaning their furry little faces. When they eat and have residue on their faces, or when they drink and there's still water on the fur around their mouth, that adorable little tongue dips out and helps clean them off.

Really, it's all just a part of their standard grooming routine. Cats use their tongues to groom themselves from tip to tail, and licking their lips is just that tip put into action.

Cats are actually pretty fastidious about cleaning themselves after a meal. That's because, despite being small predators, they're still small, and other, larger predators might stalk them down if they still smell like food. Even if your fur baby lives a happy and comfortable life indoors, their instincts tell them to clean themselves up so the lingering scent doesn't give them away.

Dental Issues

Other than grooming, the second most common reason cats lick their lips is because they have some kind of dental issue. Keep an eye out for frequent or excessive lip licking and associated drooling, especially if either one is unusual for your fur baby. These can indicate a tooth cavity, an abscess, a broken tooth, or another kind of oral infection or sore. Anything that causes irritation and pain will make them lick at their lips and face in an attempt to try to soothe the irritation away.

Other symptoms can include:

• A decline in appetite. When it hurts to open their mouth or to put pressure on a tooth or part of their gums, they aren't going to want to do anything that makes them do so, including eating. Pain can also suppress appetite.
• Paying at their face. When licking doesn't help, there aren't many other ways your cat can interact with their own face, and pawing at it is one such way. In some cases, they may even attempt to use a claw to pick at their mouth, but that's not terribly common.
• A bad odor from their face. Cats don't exactly have fresh, minty breath, but when they have a worse odor than usual – something foul and wrong-smelling – it's possible that it's an infection you're smelling. Since cats love to stick their paws and faces in your face, you're probably at least somewhat used to the smell of their normal breath, so you should be able to notice if something is unusual.

The four most common dental issues in cats are gingivitis, periodontitis, oral tumors, and a condition called tooth resorption. Gingivitis is gum disease, and periodontitis is a more advanced version of gum disease that occurs if gingivitis is left unchecked. Oral tumors can be anything from cysts to cancer and can be anywhere from harmless to extremely dangerous. Tooth resorption is a rare and unusual problem where the cat's body, for some reason, decides that the tooth is a foreign body and rejects it.

Dental issues are important to get checked out. Infections need to be treated right away, and in the case of an infected or broken tooth, it probably needs to be pulled to prevent more pain and to help encourage your fur baby to eat. Don't let the issue linger and hope it'll resolve itself.

You can help forestall dental issues by training your cat to accept you brushing their teeth, and dry food can help scrape teeth clean, but there's no substitute for regular dental checkups as well.

Dry Mouth

We tend to think of dry mouth as a symptom of something else, usually the side effect of some kind of medication. In cats, that's still true, but it can also be caused by certain diseases or illnesses, like kidney or liver problems, dehydration, or even endocrine disorders.

Dry mouth is also potentially alleviated by working the mouth to get the salivary glands to function a bit, which is why your cat might lick their lips in an attempt to alleviate it. Excessive lip licking but with a dry tongue and mouth can be a sign of one of these issues, and while it's not as immediately serious as most of the other things on this list, you might still want to consider calling your vet, especially if it doesn't lighten up in a day or two.

Eating Something Bad

If your cat ate something they shouldn't have, it's possible that it has done something to their mouth that they don't like, and they're licking to try to get rid of the feeling. Eating something mildly toxic, for example, can lead to tingling or numb lips. They might also be excessively salivating and licking to try to keep it cleaned up because it's otherwise unpleasant on their face. The same thing can happen if they do something like, for example, try to catch a stinging or biting insect and have it bite or sting them on the lips or even inside their mouth.

There are a lot of different things in the world around us that can cause this kind of issue. Toxic plants are everywhere, including many common houseplants. Bees and wasps can get inside at any time. Even household chemicals can cause problems.

Mild symptoms may resolve on their own, but you still may want to call a vet to make sure. If your cat is having other symptoms, like vomiting, breathing problems, diarrhea, or a severe lack of drinking or eating, definitely take them in ASAP to get checked out. Some toxic plants and substances can be deadly in a very short amount of time.

Nausea

Somewhat related to toxicity, nausea can cause your cat to salivate excessively or just lick their lips in an attempt to forestall the feeling. Cats aren't exactly known for trying not to throw up, but if they're just feeling bad, the physiological reactions are going to happen one way or the other.

Nausea is also usually accompanied by other symptoms, like drooling, chewing, dehydration, and dry heaving. And, of course, vomiting, which may or may not solve the issue depending on what it is that's causing the problem. If they can purge it from their system with a quick vomit, that's great for them; otherwise, they might be sick, and the cause will keep them suffering until it runs its course or is treated.

If your fur baby is constantly nauseous and vomiting, dehydration can be a serious worry. On top of that, it can be a sign of something like kidney failure or diabetes going unchecked. All of these need a vet to address them with, at minimum, fluids to help keep them going. Again, don't hesitate to call your vet or bring your fur baby in for a look.

Allergic Reactions

Toxicity is one thing, but there are other reasons why the mouth (and nose, and eyes, and airways) can be irritated: allergies. Whether it's an allergy to a cleaning product, an allergy to a food ingredient, or an allergy to some kind of seasonal dust or pollen, cats can have allergies just the same as we can. But, where we can just pop an antihistamine to take care of it for the day, your fur baby can't do anything until you notice.

Allergic reactions can cause itchy eyes, nose, and mouth, which are the main symptoms likely to cause them to lick their lips. If their allergies are more respiratory, they might have labored breathing, wheezing, or sneezing. Watery eyes are also common. On the other hand, if it's a topical allergy, it's more likely to be something they stuck their face in that is irritating the skin of their lips and nose.

If you suspect allergies, call your vet, and they can help you determine if it's something they need to help treat or if you can just work on eliminating the cause from your home or from their food.

Fear and Anxiety

One of the less physical reasons for lip smacking and licking is anxiety and fear. Licking their lips is what is known as a "displacement behavior" that occurs when your cat is forcibly put in a situation they don't like and can't really escape. It's common in veterinary offices, in fact, when a cat that doesn't like the vet is brought to the exam table, some try to fight, some try to flee, and others exhibit a displacement behavior.

Lip licking is a sort of grooming behavior that can be used to alleviate fear and anxiety, but without taking their eyes off whatever is making them anxious or afraid. You might see it if two cats are in the middle of a stare-down, or if your cat is confronting an unknown animal, or a change in scenery, or an unknown person, or themselves in a mirror. Anything causing them a spike of stress might be alleviated with a little licking of the lips.

Compulsive Disorders

Another reason why your cat might lick their lips constantly is if they have a kind of obsessive/compulsive disorder. Some cats have what is basically an OCD-style tic that makes them constantly groom themselves. Left to their own devices, they might end up licking and picking at their skin until they've pulled out all of their hair, leaving bald spots known as Behavioral Alopecia.

These can be primary – that is, a kind of neurological issue that doesn't have an external cause – or secondary, such as if they have a kind of dermatitis that irritates them into excessively grooming an area. Some parasites and problems like ringworm can also cause it.

How can you tell if lip licking is part of this? Well, these kinds of compulsive disorders generally aren't limited to lip licking and extend to excessive grooming of all kinds. So, if they're constantly grooming themselves well beyond what they normally should, it's a sign that they may have something more going on.

Other Causes for Excessive Lip Licking in Cats

There are, of course, a whole lot of other reasons why your cat might be licking their lips more than usual. For example, maybe they have something caught in their teeth, and it's part of the work they're doing to dislodge it. Or maybe they injured their lip or nose somewhere, with a small cut or scrape, and licking helps soothe it while it heals. These kinds of issues aren't usually dangerous outside of extreme cases, but they're still relevant.

Fortunately, you can usually tell if your fur baby is suffering from something more dangerous because they'll have other symptoms. Vomiting, trouble breathing, and lack of appetite are the kinds of things you need to watch for in general, and they are usually the same sorts of responses to anything going wrong. At a minimum, call your vet and discuss the issue; in extreme cases, take them to the emergency vet to make sure they're seen as soon as possible.

On the other hand, if they're licking their lips a lot but are otherwise acting just fine, you probably don't need to worry. It's really only when things get out of hand and there are other symptoms in play that you need to worry about it. Otherwise, it might just be a good opportunity to get a few of those adorable mlems on camera to share on your favorite social networks.

So there you have it; all of the main reasons why your cat might be licking their lips a lot more than normal. If you have any questions – about cat behavior in general, even – feel free to ask in the comments below!

• Why do cats knead or "make biscuits"
• Why do cats bite or pull on their nails
• Why do cats like to touch your face
• Why do cats pant like a dog

And plenty more. So, now let's talk about one of the simplest – and yet most adorable – behaviors that a cat can display. What is it? Well, obviously, if you read the title of this post, you already know. It's when your fur baby is looking for a place to curl up and doze, and they choose your lap (or chest, or stomach, or the crook of your arm, or anywhere else next to you.)

What does it mean when they choose to sleep on you instead of in their bed, up on their cat tree, or in that cozy sunbeam breaking through the curtains?

How Cats Choose a Place to Sleep

It's important to know how a cat chooses where they want to sleep. They're predators, but they're also small and vulnerable to the predations of larger animals. In the wild, a cat has to be cautious of other cats, dogs, coyotes, and big cats like mountain lions. They can't just pick a nice warm spot and sleep there; they need to find someplace they can consider safe.

What makes a location safe? Well, that varies.

Cats like to sleep somewhere relatively enclosed. This is why when you hear tales of people finding stray cats having kittens nearby, it's usually in a hedge, under a dense shrub, under a porch, in a crawlspace, in a garage or barn, or another closed-off area. It's someplace they can get into, where they have shelter from the elements, and where other animals are less likely to be. They will also choose somewhere up high if they can since many of the animals that threaten them can't climb as well as they can. That's why they "get stuck" in trees and on rooftops from time to time.

You can often see that same behavior in our domesticated feline friends. They'll find a place on top of a shelf, in a nook around the TV, in a drawer or cupboard, or – as is so often adorably observed online – in a box.

Another big element of safety, though, is the scent. Cats have a fairly keen sense of smell (nothing like a dog's, but still better than ours), and they leave scent markings around their area. That's why they rub their faces and paws on you and on the things in their domain, and it's why they scratch at surfaces. They would also scent mark using urine if they aren't fixed and/or trained away from doing so.

So, when your cat is looking for a place to sleep, their first priority is safety, and their second priority is comfort.

So, why do they choose you?

Why Your Cat Chooses to Sleep With (or on) You

If your cat is choosing to sleep next to, curled up with, or on top of you, they're doing so because of one of a few different reasons.

The first and most common for dedicated cat parents is that your fur baby has bonded with you. Cats aren't really the aloof, standoffish, and independent creatures they're made out to be. They have plenty of complex social behaviors, and they form bonds. Those bonds are often formed with other cats (like their parents, siblings, littermates, and other friendly strays around them in the cat colony), but they can also be formed with people.

So, the number one reason why your cat chooses to sleep with you is because they've bonded with you. This is actually a combination of several factors, though.

A related reason is that your cat feels safe with you. They know you aren't going to do anything to hurt or threaten them – at least not on purpose. Because really, who among us hasn't accidentally kicked or stepped on our loving fur baby in the middle of the night when we can't even see them? It's always heart-wrenching, but at least they forgive us.

Cats need to feel safe to sleep. Ideally, they'll feel safe all throughout your home because you've made it safe for them. Out of the whole home, though, they'll want to prioritize spending time with the cats or people they've bonded with, and that means hanging out with you. Since cats do a lot of sleeping, that's going to be their primary trust activity.

Another reason is the scent marks of safety. There's an amusing anecdote somewhere on X: a couple have two cats, and they always have the same routine of settling in their respective chairs for the evening. Their cats each go to their favorite person and take up a position on the arm of the chair to spend time with them. Then, one day, the two decided to switch spots and see what the cats would do.

Much to their chagrin, the cats went to their usual spots. The parents, heartily amused, determined that the cats didn't have a favorite person at all but rather just a favorite spot.

That's only half true. The full truth is, the chair you spend every day sitting in – or the bed you spend every night sleeping in – is saturated with your scent. If you give your cat the choice between a brand-new chair you're sitting in, or the chair that you've sat in every night for years, they're going to detect strong saturated scents from the one you spent so much time in. It's familiar, comfortable, and safe.

So, part of safety is feeling secure with the scents around them, and what better place to bathe in your scent than right on top of you in bed or on a chair?

Another reason why cats like to sleep on people is simply because cats like to be somewhere warm. Cats already have a higher body temperature than we do, which means that keeping our houses at a temperature comfortable for us is a little chilly for them. They certainly make up for it with their fur coats, but they'll happily soak up the sun in a window and enjoy even more warmth. So, why would they want to sleep on you? Your body heat is warmer than the floors and other surfaces, so you're a nice warm place to curl up and doze.

One other possible reason is hormones. We get good hormones like oxytocin when we spend time with our fur babies, and dogs definitely get some when they spend time with us, so it's not out of the question that cats do, too. Unfortunately, vets aren't sure whether or not that's true just yet, so for now, it's just a theory.

Finally, cats are just social sleepers. There are a million different adorable cat pictures on the internet of two or more cats curled up in a pile to sleep, in on and around one another. Well, if they don't have other cats to snuggle up to, they'll just as likely pick the next best thing, which is you. After all, you're part of the pack as well; even if you don't partake in grooming, you don't really talk right, and you don't scratch the furniture.

Is It Bad to Sleep With Your Cat?

Some people believe that it's bad in some way to sleep with their cats. Some people view cats as dirty and that the cat will soil their beds. There's a little truth to that, sure. If your cat is ill, they can vomit or lose bowel or bladder control on your sheets, and no one likes to wake up to those telltale noises that mean hours of suffering at three in the morning.

Truth be told, most of the time, it's fine to let your cat sleep with you. There are three reasons why it might be bad, though, so let's cover them.

The first is parasites. If your cat has brought in some kind of parasite with them – most notably, fleas – letting them sleep with you can spread the parasite to you. At the very least, it can infest your sheets, and that's unpleasant for everyone involved.

If your cat is an indoor-only fur baby and they don't have the opportunity to pick up parasites, this probably isn't much of a concern. It's worse for cats that go outside from time to time, especially if they do so unsupervised, which I don't recommend.

The second reason is bacteria. It's kind of the same thing, really; cats can catch illnesses and bring them into the home with them. While cats like to keep themselves groomed and cleaned as much as they can, they don't exactly go wash themselves with soap, and the bacteria they carry can cause problems with you if you're susceptible to it. In particular, if you're immunocompromised, on antibiotics, or otherwise vulnerable, you should sadly try not to let your fur baby snuggle up to you while you're sleeping. Fortunately, while cats can potentially carry diseases, as can parasites on them, a well-cared-for fur baby isn't going to have much you have to worry about unless you have other reasons to be concerned for yourself.

The third reason is allergies. You may keep your allergies under control through shots or pills during the day, but at night, they can run wild. The worst part, though, isn't the allergies themselves. Chronic inflammation from constant low-level allergic reactions is pretty bad, but more than that, allergy attacks during the night will break up and disrupt your sleep and reduce the quality of the sleep you get. Since everything from heart attacks to colds is increased because of poor quality sleep, you really want to do what's best for you.

If you aren't concerned about any of these, you're probably fine with letting your fur baby sleep with you at night. Of course, since cats like to be nocturnal, they'll probably be restless and won't stick around too long at a time. They have better things they could be doing, like prowling.

Take special care if you have babies or young children to care for. You shouldn't let your cat sleep with them. First, if the cat is startled by the baby abruptly waking, screaming, or flailing around, they can react with a bite or scratch, and that's dangerous. Second, a cat curling up on their chest or head to sleep can even cause unintentional suffocation. It's always better to be safe than sorry when a non-fur baby is involved.

Finally, if your cat is sick in any way, you really want to keep them somewhere where they aren't going to be transmitting it to other cats or to you. It can feel bad to try to isolate them when they're suffering, but you can spend time comforting them when you're comfortable yourself. You don't want to make yourself feel worse just to make them feel better; you can't care for them if you're suffering, too, right?

Of course, not every cat even wants to sleep in your human bed with you. Some may be content to be curled up at your feet, or even just somewhere else in the room. As long as they can share the space with you, that may be enough for their fuzzy little minds.

So, there you have it! A thorough explanation of why cats like to sleep on you, with you, around you, and share space with you. Isn't it a wonderful feeling to know that your fur baby has chosen you as their beloved human, their littermate, their bonded packmate, and their friend? There are few better feelings when acting as a pet parent than earning that trust and love from our beloved feline friends.

Do you have any other common cat behavior questions you wonder about or would like explained? If so, feel free to leave them in the comments below! I'm always on the lookout for ways to answer your questions and engage with my community, so I look forward to hearing from you.

A key part of training is discipline, and while most training should be using positive reinforcement, there's room for discouragement as well. The trick is, you need to do it right. There are a lot of wrong ways to try to discipline a cat, many of which will stress out your fur baby, leading to worse behavior and even health problems.

So, how do you discipline a cat firmly enough to reinforce the right behaviors and discourage the wrong ones but gentle enough to avoid damaging your relationship, discouraging the wrong things, or stressing them out? Here are half a dozen tips and techniques I've pulled from my own experience and plenty of cat training resources.

How NOT to Discipline a Cat

First, let's start with what NOT to do.

First of all, no yelling, screaming, shouting, or lecturing your cat. Your cat is not a human, and as much as they are a beloved member of your family, they are not cognitively capable of understanding pretty much anything you say. They don't have language! When a cat (or a dog, or pretty much any other animal) responds to commands, it's not because they know what the words mean. It's because they recognize a pattern of sounds and associate it with a desired behavior – even if that behavior is "stop."

Don't get me wrong, it can be fun to lightheartedly lecture your cat, but you have to know it's meaningless for the cat. It's just cathartic for you. Screaming or yelling, though, that's right out. Shouting stresses out your poor fur baby, and that's not going to help anything.

Second, never try to get physical with your cat. For one thing, a swat or slap or shake or anything else isn't going to create the kind of association you want to create. Instead, it's just going to make your cat wary of you, or even scared of you, or scared of people in general. Worse, if your cat really isn't going to take it, well, only one of you has knives attached to your fingers, and it isn't you. Trust me; they win.

You also want to avoid things like spraying your cat with water, using a loud noise, or other kind of deterrent. There are two reasons for this. First, you need to do it every time your cat performs the behavior, and since you need to do things like go to work or sleep, you won't be around to catch every possible chance. Second, it associates the negative stimulus with you, not with the location or item they were messing with. You don't want your fur baby to be afraid of you, right?

You also want to make sure you aren't accidentally reinforcing bad behaviors. For example, if your cat comes to you in bed and wakes you up whining, if you get up and feed them or play with them, then guess what? You've just trained them that, if they want food or entertainment at 4am, they can wake you up and get it.

Finally, don't forget to be consistent. Training requires consistency until the behavior is engrained, which is the only way you can get it to stick. If you're trying to dissuade them from a behavior you aren't always around to witness, find some way to handle it when you can't be there to do it.

Now, let's move on to the ways to discipline a cat effectively.

1: Learn What Reinforcement Means

First of all, it's worth knowing what reinforcement is. In behavior analysis and psychology, there's a four-quadrant grid for training. You have Reinforcement versus Punishment, and you have Positive versus Negative.

• Positive Reinforcement: Adding something pleasant or beneficial to encourage a desired behavior.
• Positive Punishment: Adding something unpleasant or detrimental to discourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Reinforcement: Removing something unpleasant or detrimental to encourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Punishment: Removing something pleasant or beneficial to discourage a desired behavior.

Most of these only work when you're using them on a being capable of the higher levels of thought necessary to draw disconnected conclusions.

Positive Punishment, also simply called punishment, doesn't work on animals because they tend to learn the wrong things from it; all they know is that they're having something unpleasant happen to them, and they react accordingly. Hitting a misbehaving dog, spraying a cat with a water bottle, and other forms of punishment are ineffective.

Negative Reinforcement can work, but it isn't ideal. For example, you might have an unpleasant buzzing noise throughout your house that turns off when your cat does what they're supposed to. They'll learn how to do that to remove the noise, but while the noise is around, they'll be increasingly stressed out. This is an effective method for animal handling professionals to capture or socialize stray and feral cats, but it's not appropriate for home training.

Negative Punishment, meanwhile, is the removal of something nice to punish your cat for their misdeeds. This works on children because they're capable of understanding something like "because you got in a fight, you don't get dessert tonight." The abstract disconnect between punishment and cause doesn't work on animals, who don't have that kind of reasoning. This can work in certain circumstances, such as ending playtime if your cat bites you during play. It's of very limited use, however.

All of this leaves you with one option: positive reinforcement. In other words, you aren't punishing the bad behavior; you're being vigilant and rewarding when your cat stops the behavior. I've written about this concept before in training a cat not to scratch the furniture, which you can read about here.

2: Keep High-Value Treats on Hand

Since you're using a positive reinforcement method, you need something that is valuable enough to be an encouragement, and that usually means high-value treats. Whether it's a few licks of one of those pouches of tasty goo, a single small bit of tasty meat, or specially designed cat treats, you need something they'll pay attention to and associate as a reward.

It's important to keep some of these on hand when you're trying to reward behaviors. The longer a delay there is between behavior and treat, the less likely your cat is to associate the two, so the less effective it's going to be.

Note that the reward doesn't have to be a dedicated cat treat. A crunchy bit of treat works fine for some cats, but other cats aren't as motivated by it. Maybe a piece of shrimp, a bit of canned cheese, or even a new and interesting (or catnip-infused) toy will be a better option. Learn what your cat likes and use that.

3: Try Mat Training

Mat training is a combination of clicker and reward based on a specific location. You have a "mat" (which can be a small rug, a specific bit of box, or just a designated spot in the room) and a clicker that makes a specific noise used for training. Here's a video demonstration.

Your first goal is to train your cat to associate the mat with a treat and the clicker with both the mat and the treat. Basically, go stand near the mat location. Encourage your cat to come over and, when they're in the right spot, give them a treat. When you give them the treat, use the clicker so the noise is always there in mind when they're in that spot and have a treat.

The first goal is to get to the point where you can click the clicker, and your cat will head to the mat for a treat. Don't give them the treat anywhere else; it's specifically about that location. Also, don't give them a treat just for going there; make sure it's in response to the clicker.

Once they're trained this way, you can use the clicker to discourage a behavior you don't like. When your cat is, for example, about to scratch the furniture or jump up on the counters, use the click and give them the treat when they abandon their original plan for the treat. If you do this every time they're about to engage in a behavior you don't like, they'll eventually stop.

4: Line Counters with Foil

A good way to deter cats from behaviors like jumping up on the counters is to line the counters with aluminum foil. When they jump up, several things happen. First, they see motion (their own reflection) that they didn't expect, which startles them. When they land, the unexpected texture and sudden noise of landing on foil disrupts them and usually scares them off the counter. You can see it in action all over the internet in videos like this one. Of course, as you can see in that video, it doesn't always work. Make sure you're only using it for this specific kind of behavior, and don't use it on the floor to randomly prank your cat. This makes it less effective.

Make sure you have a cat tree or other places they can perch nearby. Cats like to be up high and able to observe, and discouraging them from all high places likely won't work.

5: Put Double-Sided Tape on Furniture

Another way to discourage a specific behavior is to put double-sided tape on pieces of furniture your fur baby is likely to try to scratch. When they reach up to scratch, their paws will end up on the sticky tape, and they'll pull back, unhappy with it.

Make sure you have a good, solid scratching post nearby for them to use. Cats are going to scratch, it's part of their nature and is just something cat parents need to deal with. Your goal is to redirect it, not prevent it.

6: Consider a Motion Air Sprayer

Motion-activated air sprayers detect motion and release a brief jet of air. That's all they do. They aren't aimed at the cat – and indeed, you should position them so it can't.

The goal is the noise of the hiss of air resembles a warning hiss from another cat or animal and will startle and dissuade your cat from whatever they were doing. These are best used as another form of countertop deterrent and not as anything manual.

Learn the Root Cause of Bad Behaviors

One thing to consider, as well, is that many bad behaviors are not caused by your cat wanting to lash out or spite you or just to cause trouble; they have other root causes. For example:

• Maybe your cat is opting to scratch the furniture because, when they try to scratch their scratching post, it wobbles. Or maybe the scratching post is splintered, and they've hurt their paws on it before.
• Maybe your cat is jumping on the counters because it's the highest place they can get to, and they don't have anywhere else they can go to survey their domain.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because it's full and dirty, or another cat is bullying them and using it as their territory.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because they're sick and stressed and can't help themselves. UTIs, stomach bugs, parasites, and other infections can all cause litter issues.

In these cases, all of the training in the world is unlikely to help because it doesn't solve the root issue. You need to pay attention to the behaviors themselves and think about why they're happening so you can solve the root issue for a happier, healthier fur baby.

Training a cat is all about working with them to encourage the behaviors you want to see and distract or redirect them from the behaviors you don't. It takes time, dedication, and consistency, but it can be done. Trust me, your fur baby will thank you!

After reading today's article, did you have any questions? As always, I'm more than happy to help fellow pet parents however I can, so be sure to leave your questions in the comments section down below!

Many people have an impression of cats as aloof, independent, free-thinking creatures that only listen to you as their parent when they feel like it. And sure, they're not all that likely to come when called, and it's pretty rare that you can teach them command-based tricks like playing dead or rolling over. But that doesn't mean they can't be trained. In fact, training a cat – from litter box training to staying off the counters in the kitchen – is a critical part of ensuring you have a lovable, well-behaved, and safe furball in your home.

A key part of training is discipline, and while most training should be using positive reinforcement, there's room for discouragement as well. The trick is, you need to do it right. There are a lot of wrong ways to try to discipline a cat, many of which will stress out your fur baby, leading to worse behavior and even health problems.

So, how do you discipline a cat firmly enough to reinforce the right behaviors and discourage the wrong ones but gentle enough to avoid damaging your relationship, discouraging the wrong things, or stressing them out? Here are half a dozen tips and techniques I've pulled from my own experience and plenty of cat training resources.

How NOT to Discipline a Cat

First, let's start with what NOT to do.

First of all, no yelling, screaming, shouting, or lecturing your cat. Your cat is not a human, and as much as they are a beloved member of your family, they are not cognitively capable of understanding pretty much anything you say. They don't have language! When a cat (or a dog, or pretty much any other animal) responds to commands, it's not because they know what the words mean. It's because they recognize a pattern of sounds and associate it with a desired behavior – even if that behavior is "stop."

Don't get me wrong, it can be fun to lightheartedly lecture your cat, but you have to know it's meaningless for the cat. It's just cathartic for you. Screaming or yelling, though, that's right out. Shouting stresses out your poor fur baby, and that's not going to help anything.

Second, never try to get physical with your cat. For one thing, a swat or slap or shake or anything else isn't going to create the kind of association you want to create. Instead, it's just going to make your cat wary of you, or even scared of you, or scared of people in general. Worse, if your cat really isn't going to take it, well, only one of you has knives attached to your fingers, and it isn't you. Trust me; they win.

You also want to avoid things like spraying your cat with water, using a loud noise, or other kind of deterrent. There are two reasons for this. First, you need to do it every time your cat performs the behavior, and since you need to do things like go to work or sleep, you won't be around to catch every possible chance. Second, it associates the negative stimulus with you, not with the location or item they were messing with. You don't want your fur baby to be afraid of you, right?

You also want to make sure you aren't accidentally reinforcing bad behaviors. For example, if your cat comes to you in bed and wakes you up whining, if you get up and feed them or play with them, then guess what? You've just trained them that, if they want food or entertainment at 4am, they can wake you up and get it.

Finally, don't forget to be consistent. Training requires consistency until the behavior is engrained, which is the only way you can get it to stick. If you're trying to dissuade them from a behavior you aren't always around to witness, find some way to handle it when you can't be there to do it.

Now, let's move on to the ways to discipline a cat effectively.

1: Learn What Reinforcement Means

First of all, it's worth knowing what reinforcement is. In behavior analysis and psychology, there's a four-quadrant grid for training. You have Reinforcement versus Punishment, and you have Positive versus Negative.

• Positive Reinforcement: Adding something pleasant or beneficial to encourage a desired behavior.
• Positive Punishment: Adding something unpleasant or detrimental to discourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Reinforcement: Removing something unpleasant or detrimental to encourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Punishment: Removing something pleasant or beneficial to discourage a desired behavior.

Most of these only work when you're using them on a being capable of the higher levels of thought necessary to draw disconnected conclusions.

Positive Punishment, also simply called punishment, doesn't work on animals because they tend to learn the wrong things from it; all they know is that they're having something unpleasant happen to them, and they react accordingly. Hitting a misbehaving dog, spraying a cat with a water bottle, and other forms of punishment are ineffective.

Negative Reinforcement can work, but it isn't ideal. For example, you might have an unpleasant buzzing noise throughout your house that turns off when your cat does what they're supposed to. They'll learn how to do that to remove the noise, but while the noise is around, they'll be increasingly stressed out. This is an effective method for animal handling professionals to capture or socialize stray and feral cats, but it's not appropriate for home training.

Negative Punishment, meanwhile, is the removal of something nice to punish your cat for their misdeeds. This works on children because they're capable of understanding something like "because you got in a fight, you don't get dessert tonight." The abstract disconnect between punishment and cause doesn't work on animals, who don't have that kind of reasoning. This can work in certain circumstances, such as ending playtime if your cat bites you during play. It's of very limited use, however.

All of this leaves you with one option: positive reinforcement. In other words, you aren't punishing the bad behavior; you're being vigilant and rewarding when your cat stops the behavior. I've written about this concept before in training a cat not to scratch the furniture, which you can read about here.

2: Keep High-Value Treats on Hand

Since you're using a positive reinforcement method, you need something that is valuable enough to be an encouragement, and that usually means high-value treats. Whether it's a few licks of one of those pouches of tasty goo, a single small bit of tasty meat, or specially designed cat treats, you need something they'll pay attention to and associate as a reward.

It's important to keep some of these on hand when you're trying to reward behaviors. The longer a delay there is between behavior and treat, the less likely your cat is to associate the two, so the less effective it's going to be.

Note that the reward doesn't have to be a dedicated cat treat. A crunchy bit of treat works fine for some cats, but other cats aren't as motivated by it. Maybe a piece of shrimp, a bit of canned cheese, or even a new and interesting (or catnip-infused) toy will be a better option. Learn what your cat likes and use that.

3: Try Mat Training

Mat training is a combination of clicker and reward based on a specific location. You have a "mat" (which can be a small rug, a specific bit of box, or just a designated spot in the room) and a clicker that makes a specific noise used for training. Here's a video demonstration.

Your first goal is to train your cat to associate the mat with a treat and the clicker with both the mat and the treat. Basically, go stand near the mat location. Encourage your cat to come over and, when they're in the right spot, give them a treat. When you give them the treat, use the clicker so the noise is always there in mind when they're in that spot and have a treat.

The first goal is to get to the point where you can click the clicker, and your cat will head to the mat for a treat. Don't give them the treat anywhere else; it's specifically about that location. Also, don't give them a treat just for going there; make sure it's in response to the clicker.

Once they're trained this way, you can use the clicker to discourage a behavior you don't like. When your cat is, for example, about to scratch the furniture or jump up on the counters, use the click and give them the treat when they abandon their original plan for the treat. If you do this every time they're about to engage in a behavior you don't like, they'll eventually stop.

4: Line Counters with Foil

A good way to deter cats from behaviors like jumping up on the counters is to line the counters with aluminum foil. When they jump up, several things happen. First, they see motion (their own reflection) that they didn't expect, which startles them. When they land, the unexpected texture and sudden noise of landing on foil disrupts them and usually scares them off the counter. You can see it in action all over the internet in videos like this one. Of course, as you can see in that video, it doesn't always work. Make sure you're only using it for this specific kind of behavior, and don't use it on the floor to randomly prank your cat. This makes it less effective.

Make sure you have a cat tree or other places they can perch nearby. Cats like to be up high and able to observe, and discouraging them from all high places likely won't work.

5: Put Double-Sided Tape on Furniture

Another way to discourage a specific behavior is to put double-sided tape on pieces of furniture your fur baby is likely to try to scratch. When they reach up to scratch, their paws will end up on the sticky tape, and they'll pull back, unhappy with it.

Make sure you have a good, solid scratching post nearby for them to use. Cats are going to scratch, it's part of their nature and is just something cat parents need to deal with. Your goal is to redirect it, not prevent it.

6: Consider a Motion Air Sprayer

Motion-activated air sprayers detect motion and release a brief jet of air. That's all they do. They aren't aimed at the cat – and indeed, you should position them so it can't.

The goal is the noise of the hiss of air resembles a warning hiss from another cat or animal and will startle and dissuade your cat from whatever they were doing. These are best used as another form of countertop deterrent and not as anything manual.

Learn the Root Cause of Bad Behaviors

One thing to consider, as well, is that many bad behaviors are not caused by your cat wanting to lash out or spite you or just to cause trouble; they have other root causes. For example:

• Maybe your cat is opting to scratch the furniture because, when they try to scratch their scratching post, it wobbles. Or maybe the scratching post is splintered, and they've hurt their paws on it before.
• Maybe your cat is jumping on the counters because it's the highest place they can get to, and they don't have anywhere else they can go to survey their domain.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because it's full and dirty, or another cat is bullying them and using it as their territory.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because they're sick and stressed and can't help themselves. UTIs, stomach bugs, parasites, and other infections can all cause litter issues.

In these cases, all of the training in the world is unlikely to help because it doesn't solve the root issue. You need to pay attention to the behaviors themselves and think about why they're happening so you can solve the root issue for a happier, healthier fur baby.

Training a cat is all about working with them to encourage the behaviors you want to see and distract or redirect them from the behaviors you don't. It takes time, dedication, and consistency, but it can be done. Trust me, your fur baby will thank you!

After reading today's article, did you have any questions? As always, I'm more than happy to help fellow pet parents however I can, so be sure to leave your questions in the comments section down below!

Many people have an impression of cats as aloof, independent, free-thinking creatures that only listen to you as their parent when they feel like it. And sure, they're not all that likely to come when called, and it's pretty rare that you can teach them command-based tricks like playing dead or rolling over. But that doesn't mean they can't be trained. In fact, training a cat – from litter box training to staying off the counters in the kitchen – is a critical part of ensuring you have a lovable, well-behaved, and safe furball in your home.

A key part of training is discipline, and while most training should be using positive reinforcement, there's room for discouragement as well. The trick is, you need to do it right. There are a lot of wrong ways to try to discipline a cat, many of which will stress out your fur baby, leading to worse behavior and even health problems.

So, how do you discipline a cat firmly enough to reinforce the right behaviors and discourage the wrong ones but gentle enough to avoid damaging your relationship, discouraging the wrong things, or stressing them out? Here are half a dozen tips and techniques I've pulled from my own experience and plenty of cat training resources.

How NOT to Discipline a Cat

First, let's start with what NOT to do.

First of all, no yelling, screaming, shouting, or lecturing your cat. Your cat is not a human, and as much as they are a beloved member of your family, they are not cognitively capable of understanding pretty much anything you say. They don't have language! When a cat (or a dog, or pretty much any other animal) responds to commands, it's not because they know what the words mean. It's because they recognize a pattern of sounds and associate it with a desired behavior – even if that behavior is "stop."

Don't get me wrong, it can be fun to lightheartedly lecture your cat, but you have to know it's meaningless for the cat. It's just cathartic for you. Screaming or yelling, though, that's right out. Shouting stresses out your poor fur baby, and that's not going to help anything.

Second, never try to get physical with your cat. For one thing, a swat or slap or shake or anything else isn't going to create the kind of association you want to create. Instead, it's just going to make your cat wary of you, or even scared of you, or scared of people in general. Worse, if your cat really isn't going to take it, well, only one of you has knives attached to your fingers, and it isn't you. Trust me; they win.

You also want to avoid things like spraying your cat with water, using a loud noise, or other kind of deterrent. There are two reasons for this. First, you need to do it every time your cat performs the behavior, and since you need to do things like go to work or sleep, you won't be around to catch every possible chance. Second, it associates the negative stimulus with you, not with the location or item they were messing with. You don't want your fur baby to be afraid of you, right?

You also want to make sure you aren't accidentally reinforcing bad behaviors. For example, if your cat comes to you in bed and wakes you up whining, if you get up and feed them or play with them, then guess what? You've just trained them that, if they want food or entertainment at 4am, they can wake you up and get it.

Finally, don't forget to be consistent. Training requires consistency until the behavior is engrained, which is the only way you can get it to stick. If you're trying to dissuade them from a behavior you aren't always around to witness, find some way to handle it when you can't be there to do it.

Now, let's move on to the ways to discipline a cat effectively.

1: Learn What Reinforcement Means

First of all, it's worth knowing what reinforcement is. In behavior analysis and psychology, there's a four-quadrant grid for training. You have Reinforcement versus Punishment, and you have Positive versus Negative.

• Positive Reinforcement: Adding something pleasant or beneficial to encourage a desired behavior.
• Positive Punishment: Adding something unpleasant or detrimental to discourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Reinforcement: Removing something unpleasant or detrimental to encourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Punishment: Removing something pleasant or beneficial to discourage a desired behavior.

Most of these only work when you're using them on a being capable of the higher levels of thought necessary to draw disconnected conclusions.

Positive Punishment, also simply called punishment, doesn't work on animals because they tend to learn the wrong things from it; all they know is that they're having something unpleasant happen to them, and they react accordingly. Hitting a misbehaving dog, spraying a cat with a water bottle, and other forms of punishment are ineffective.

Negative Reinforcement can work, but it isn't ideal. For example, you might have an unpleasant buzzing noise throughout your house that turns off when your cat does what they're supposed to. They'll learn how to do that to remove the noise, but while the noise is around, they'll be increasingly stressed out. This is an effective method for animal handling professionals to capture or socialize stray and feral cats, but it's not appropriate for home training.

Negative Punishment, meanwhile, is the removal of something nice to punish your cat for their misdeeds. This works on children because they're capable of understanding something like "because you got in a fight, you don't get dessert tonight." The abstract disconnect between punishment and cause doesn't work on animals, who don't have that kind of reasoning. This can work in certain circumstances, such as ending playtime if your cat bites you during play. It's of very limited use, however.

All of this leaves you with one option: positive reinforcement. In other words, you aren't punishing the bad behavior; you're being vigilant and rewarding when your cat stops the behavior. I've written about this concept before in training a cat not to scratch the furniture, which you can read about here.

2: Keep High-Value Treats on Hand

Since you're using a positive reinforcement method, you need something that is valuable enough to be an encouragement, and that usually means high-value treats. Whether it's a few licks of one of those pouches of tasty goo, a single small bit of tasty meat, or specially designed cat treats, you need something they'll pay attention to and associate as a reward.

It's important to keep some of these on hand when you're trying to reward behaviors. The longer a delay there is between behavior and treat, the less likely your cat is to associate the two, so the less effective it's going to be.

Note that the reward doesn't have to be a dedicated cat treat. A crunchy bit of treat works fine for some cats, but other cats aren't as motivated by it. Maybe a piece of shrimp, a bit of canned cheese, or even a new and interesting (or catnip-infused) toy will be a better option. Learn what your cat likes and use that.

3: Try Mat Training

Mat training is a combination of clicker and reward based on a specific location. You have a "mat" (which can be a small rug, a specific bit of box, or just a designated spot in the room) and a clicker that makes a specific noise used for training. Here's a video demonstration.

Your first goal is to train your cat to associate the mat with a treat and the clicker with both the mat and the treat. Basically, go stand near the mat location. Encourage your cat to come over and, when they're in the right spot, give them a treat. When you give them the treat, use the clicker so the noise is always there in mind when they're in that spot and have a treat.

The first goal is to get to the point where you can click the clicker, and your cat will head to the mat for a treat. Don't give them the treat anywhere else; it's specifically about that location. Also, don't give them a treat just for going there; make sure it's in response to the clicker.

Once they're trained this way, you can use the clicker to discourage a behavior you don't like. When your cat is, for example, about to scratch the furniture or jump up on the counters, use the click and give them the treat when they abandon their original plan for the treat. If you do this every time they're about to engage in a behavior you don't like, they'll eventually stop.

4: Line Counters with Foil

A good way to deter cats from behaviors like jumping up on the counters is to line the counters with aluminum foil. When they jump up, several things happen. First, they see motion (their own reflection) that they didn't expect, which startles them. When they land, the unexpected texture and sudden noise of landing on foil disrupts them and usually scares them off the counter. You can see it in action all over the internet in videos like this one. Of course, as you can see in that video, it doesn't always work. Make sure you're only using it for this specific kind of behavior, and don't use it on the floor to randomly prank your cat. This makes it less effective.

Make sure you have a cat tree or other places they can perch nearby. Cats like to be up high and able to observe, and discouraging them from all high places likely won't work.

5: Put Double-Sided Tape on Furniture

Another way to discourage a specific behavior is to put double-sided tape on pieces of furniture your fur baby is likely to try to scratch. When they reach up to scratch, their paws will end up on the sticky tape, and they'll pull back, unhappy with it.

Make sure you have a good, solid scratching post nearby for them to use. Cats are going to scratch, it's part of their nature and is just something cat parents need to deal with. Your goal is to redirect it, not prevent it.

6: Consider a Motion Air Sprayer

Motion-activated air sprayers detect motion and release a brief jet of air. That's all they do. They aren't aimed at the cat – and indeed, you should position them so it can't.

The goal is the noise of the hiss of air resembles a warning hiss from another cat or animal and will startle and dissuade your cat from whatever they were doing. These are best used as another form of countertop deterrent and not as anything manual.

Learn the Root Cause of Bad Behaviors

One thing to consider, as well, is that many bad behaviors are not caused by your cat wanting to lash out or spite you or just to cause trouble; they have other root causes. For example:

• Maybe your cat is opting to scratch the furniture because, when they try to scratch their scratching post, it wobbles. Or maybe the scratching post is splintered, and they've hurt their paws on it before.
• Maybe your cat is jumping on the counters because it's the highest place they can get to, and they don't have anywhere else they can go to survey their domain.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because it's full and dirty, or another cat is bullying them and using it as their territory.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because they're sick and stressed and can't help themselves. UTIs, stomach bugs, parasites, and other infections can all cause litter issues.

In these cases, all of the training in the world is unlikely to help because it doesn't solve the root issue. You need to pay attention to the behaviors themselves and think about why they're happening so you can solve the root issue for a happier, healthier fur baby.

Training a cat is all about working with them to encourage the behaviors you want to see and distract or redirect them from the behaviors you don't. It takes time, dedication, and consistency, but it can be done. Trust me, your fur baby will thank you!

After reading today's article, did you have any questions? As always, I'm more than happy to help fellow pet parents however I can, so be sure to leave your questions in the comments section down below!

Many people have an impression of cats as aloof, independent, free-thinking creatures that only listen to you as their parent when they feel like it. And sure, they're not all that likely to come when called, and it's pretty rare that you can teach them command-based tricks like playing dead or rolling over. But that doesn't mean they can't be trained. In fact, training a cat – from litter box training to staying off the counters in the kitchen – is a critical part of ensuring you have a lovable, well-behaved, and safe furball in your home.

A key part of training is discipline, and while most training should be using positive reinforcement, there's room for discouragement as well. The trick is, you need to do it right. There are a lot of wrong ways to try to discipline a cat, many of which will stress out your fur baby, leading to worse behavior and even health problems.

So, how do you discipline a cat firmly enough to reinforce the right behaviors and discourage the wrong ones but gentle enough to avoid damaging your relationship, discouraging the wrong things, or stressing them out? Here are half a dozen tips and techniques I've pulled from my own experience and plenty of cat training resources.

How NOT to Discipline a Cat

First, let's start with what NOT to do.

First of all, no yelling, screaming, shouting, or lecturing your cat. Your cat is not a human, and as much as they are a beloved member of your family, they are not cognitively capable of understanding pretty much anything you say. They don't have language! When a cat (or a dog, or pretty much any other animal) responds to commands, it's not because they know what the words mean. It's because they recognize a pattern of sounds and associate it with a desired behavior – even if that behavior is "stop."

Don't get me wrong, it can be fun to lightheartedly lecture your cat, but you have to know it's meaningless for the cat. It's just cathartic for you. Screaming or yelling, though, that's right out. Shouting stresses out your poor fur baby, and that's not going to help anything.

Second, never try to get physical with your cat. For one thing, a swat or slap or shake or anything else isn't going to create the kind of association you want to create. Instead, it's just going to make your cat wary of you, or even scared of you, or scared of people in general. Worse, if your cat really isn't going to take it, well, only one of you has knives attached to your fingers, and it isn't you. Trust me; they win.

You also want to avoid things like spraying your cat with water, using a loud noise, or other kind of deterrent. There are two reasons for this. First, you need to do it every time your cat performs the behavior, and since you need to do things like go to work or sleep, you won't be around to catch every possible chance. Second, it associates the negative stimulus with you, not with the location or item they were messing with. You don't want your fur baby to be afraid of you, right?

You also want to make sure you aren't accidentally reinforcing bad behaviors. For example, if your cat comes to you in bed and wakes you up whining, if you get up and feed them or play with them, then guess what? You've just trained them that, if they want food or entertainment at 4am, they can wake you up and get it.

Finally, don't forget to be consistent. Training requires consistency until the behavior is engrained, which is the only way you can get it to stick. If you're trying to dissuade them from a behavior you aren't always around to witness, find some way to handle it when you can't be there to do it.

Now, let's move on to the ways to discipline a cat effectively.

1: Learn What Reinforcement Means

First of all, it's worth knowing what reinforcement is. In behavior analysis and psychology, there's a four-quadrant grid for training. You have Reinforcement versus Punishment, and you have Positive versus Negative.

• Positive Reinforcement: Adding something pleasant or beneficial to encourage a desired behavior.
• Positive Punishment: Adding something unpleasant or detrimental to discourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Reinforcement: Removing something unpleasant or detrimental to encourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Punishment: Removing something pleasant or beneficial to discourage a desired behavior.

Most of these only work when you're using them on a being capable of the higher levels of thought necessary to draw disconnected conclusions.

Positive Punishment, also simply called punishment, doesn't work on animals because they tend to learn the wrong things from it; all they know is that they're having something unpleasant happen to them, and they react accordingly. Hitting a misbehaving dog, spraying a cat with a water bottle, and other forms of punishment are ineffective.

Negative Reinforcement can work, but it isn't ideal. For example, you might have an unpleasant buzzing noise throughout your house that turns off when your cat does what they're supposed to. They'll learn how to do that to remove the noise, but while the noise is around, they'll be increasingly stressed out. This is an effective method for animal handling professionals to capture or socialize stray and feral cats, but it's not appropriate for home training.

Negative Punishment, meanwhile, is the removal of something nice to punish your cat for their misdeeds. This works on children because they're capable of understanding something like "because you got in a fight, you don't get dessert tonight." The abstract disconnect between punishment and cause doesn't work on animals, who don't have that kind of reasoning. This can work in certain circumstances, such as ending playtime if your cat bites you during play. It's of very limited use, however.

All of this leaves you with one option: positive reinforcement. In other words, you aren't punishing the bad behavior; you're being vigilant and rewarding when your cat stops the behavior. I've written about this concept before in training a cat not to scratch the furniture, which you can read about here.

2: Keep High-Value Treats on Hand

Since you're using a positive reinforcement method, you need something that is valuable enough to be an encouragement, and that usually means high-value treats. Whether it's a few licks of one of those pouches of tasty goo, a single small bit of tasty meat, or specially designed cat treats, you need something they'll pay attention to and associate as a reward.

It's important to keep some of these on hand when you're trying to reward behaviors. The longer a delay there is between behavior and treat, the less likely your cat is to associate the two, so the less effective it's going to be.

Note that the reward doesn't have to be a dedicated cat treat. A crunchy bit of treat works fine for some cats, but other cats aren't as motivated by it. Maybe a piece of shrimp, a bit of canned cheese, or even a new and interesting (or catnip-infused) toy will be a better option. Learn what your cat likes and use that.

3: Try Mat Training

Mat training is a combination of clicker and reward based on a specific location. You have a "mat" (which can be a small rug, a specific bit of box, or just a designated spot in the room) and a clicker that makes a specific noise used for training. Here's a video demonstration.

Your first goal is to train your cat to associate the mat with a treat and the clicker with both the mat and the treat. Basically, go stand near the mat location. Encourage your cat to come over and, when they're in the right spot, give them a treat. When you give them the treat, use the clicker so the noise is always there in mind when they're in that spot and have a treat.

The first goal is to get to the point where you can click the clicker, and your cat will head to the mat for a treat. Don't give them the treat anywhere else; it's specifically about that location. Also, don't give them a treat just for going there; make sure it's in response to the clicker.

Once they're trained this way, you can use the clicker to discourage a behavior you don't like. When your cat is, for example, about to scratch the furniture or jump up on the counters, use the click and give them the treat when they abandon their original plan for the treat. If you do this every time they're about to engage in a behavior you don't like, they'll eventually stop.

4: Line Counters with Foil

A good way to deter cats from behaviors like jumping up on the counters is to line the counters with aluminum foil. When they jump up, several things happen. First, they see motion (their own reflection) that they didn't expect, which startles them. When they land, the unexpected texture and sudden noise of landing on foil disrupts them and usually scares them off the counter. You can see it in action all over the internet in videos like this one. Of course, as you can see in that video, it doesn't always work. Make sure you're only using it for this specific kind of behavior, and don't use it on the floor to randomly prank your cat. This makes it less effective.

Make sure you have a cat tree or other places they can perch nearby. Cats like to be up high and able to observe, and discouraging them from all high places likely won't work.

5: Put Double-Sided Tape on Furniture

Another way to discourage a specific behavior is to put double-sided tape on pieces of furniture your fur baby is likely to try to scratch. When they reach up to scratch, their paws will end up on the sticky tape, and they'll pull back, unhappy with it.

Make sure you have a good, solid scratching post nearby for them to use. Cats are going to scratch, it's part of their nature and is just something cat parents need to deal with. Your goal is to redirect it, not prevent it.

6: Consider a Motion Air Sprayer

Motion-activated air sprayers detect motion and release a brief jet of air. That's all they do. They aren't aimed at the cat – and indeed, you should position them so it can't.

The goal is the noise of the hiss of air resembles a warning hiss from another cat or animal and will startle and dissuade your cat from whatever they were doing. These are best used as another form of countertop deterrent and not as anything manual.

Learn the Root Cause of Bad Behaviors

One thing to consider, as well, is that many bad behaviors are not caused by your cat wanting to lash out or spite you or just to cause trouble; they have other root causes. For example:

• Maybe your cat is opting to scratch the furniture because, when they try to scratch their scratching post, it wobbles. Or maybe the scratching post is splintered, and they've hurt their paws on it before.
• Maybe your cat is jumping on the counters because it's the highest place they can get to, and they don't have anywhere else they can go to survey their domain.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because it's full and dirty, or another cat is bullying them and using it as their territory.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because they're sick and stressed and can't help themselves. UTIs, stomach bugs, parasites, and other infections can all cause litter issues.

In these cases, all of the training in the world is unlikely to help because it doesn't solve the root issue. You need to pay attention to the behaviors themselves and think about why they're happening so you can solve the root issue for a happier, healthier fur baby.

Training a cat is all about working with them to encourage the behaviors you want to see and distract or redirect them from the behaviors you don't. It takes time, dedication, and consistency, but it can be done. Trust me, your fur baby will thank you!

After reading today's article, did you have any questions? As always, I'm more than happy to help fellow pet parents however I can, so be sure to leave your questions in the comments section down below!

What if I told you that you could play video games with your cat?

No, I don't mean a tiny cat VR headset (which is brilliant satire, by the way), and they certainly aren't going to do much more than lay on a controller if you give them one. And forget about browsing the app store for something to suit their preferences… they can't read!

What cats can do, though, is see what's on a screen. Every funny moment of a cat pouncing at a bird on a big-screen TV only to bounce off the flat screen is a testament to that fact.

So what if you found a video game that they can play using your devices? There are quite a few of them out there, so I've found five that are a hoot to try.

They all follow more or less the same formula, but the variance between them can be enough to make it worth trying each of them to find the one that you and your cat like the most.

What You Need to Play a Video Game with Your Cat

Before we begin, we need to prepare. If you want to play a video game with your cat, you need to do it the right way.

First, you want a tablet. A phone can work, but there's a decent chance you want to be using your phone, not letting your cat dominate it.

Plus, phones are smaller and easier to swipe around and off surfaces; if you let your cat play with your phone, they could bat it off a table and break it. Nobody wants that! Your cat can't even pay for the damage, the pesky freeloader.

What kind of tablet? The two major ecosystems are Android and Apple. Either one can work, but they have their own ecosystems, so the games available for one might not be available for the other. I've put together a list for each below.

As for price and capabilities, if all you're doing is using it as a cat toy, you can buy an older, used version, so the price isn't really a concern. Cat-centric video games aren't particularly intensive, either. Just get something you're fine with using as a cat toy.

Second, you want some kind of case or mount for it. A silicone case is the best for two reasons. The first is that it's resilient and durable, as well as shock-absorbent.

If your furry friend manages to shove your tablet off a table with one of these cases, it's more likely to bounce than break. The second reason is to prevent that from happening at all; a silicone case is very "grippy" and will keep the tablet from sliding at all.

Of course, you can alleviate some of these problems by putting the tablet on the floor instead of on a table or other higher-up surface.

Third, you want a screen protector for the tablet. Our fuzzy little friends have claws, and those claws can leave scrapes and scratches on a screen, especially when they're pouncing or swiping at it.

Note: You can get around a lot of the problems of a damaged tablet by using a projector system to display your game right on the floor. This has the benefit of being larger and more interactive for your fur baby. You need a projector that has a camera, records feedback, and can detect your cat's actions and make the game react. The issue is that these are significantly more expensive than your average tablet, so this isn't really the best option unless you're really dedicated to having a cat playroom with virtual gaming.

I also recommend some grooming tools to help keep your cat's claws trimmed. Shorter claws are less likely to hook into a case or crease in the tablet and drag it around and aren't as likely to scratch a screen or tear a screen protector off.

Finally, you'll want some treats on hand. I'll get into the "why" for that a little later.

Five Android Video Games for Cats

First, let's start off with the games you'll find on the Android Google Play app store. These are the options you have for using a Google, Samsung, or other Android-format tablet as your cat's gaming device.

1: Mouse for Cats

Mouse for Cats is one of the oldest cat-focused video games on the market. It's fairly simple; a digital mouse wanders the screen and pops when your cat "catches" it by pouncing or swiping at the screen. You can configure the app to choose whether or not the mice can run off-screen (which can distract some cats by making them look elsewhere for the mice), how many mice are on screen at a time, and more.

The biggest downside to the app is that it has some fairly annoying ads in between levels, and there's no way to disable them, so you need some active supervision for your cat's screen time.

2: Pocket Ponds

Pocket Ponds is a more detailed game that's designed for both you and your fur baby to play together. Rather than catching fish, though, taps and pawing at the screen feeds and cares for your koi.

Then, when your cat tires of the game, you can take over and get to work with the management side, breeding newer and more interesting fish, upgrading your pond, and more. Really, who wouldn't love to co-op with their kitten?

3: Cat Games: Games for Cats

This is a fairly simple set of games, all of which follow the same "catch the critter" formula. There are a variety of different critters to catch, including flies, bees, hamsters, and mice, so your fur baby can get some variety.

Some people report that this game has some annoying ads and some annoying sound bites, so feel free to evaluate it at your leisure.

4: Cat Fishing 2

Cat Fishing 2 is fairly similar to the above games, particularly Mouse for Cats, except with aquatic critters. Fish, crabs, frogs, and other little creatures roam the screen for your cat to catch and pop, earning them points.

In an interesting twist, this game was made by Nestle Purina, so it's designed for cats first and foremost.

5: Cat Alone 2

If you've spotted a pattern that all these cat games are just variations on "cat chases and touches critter on screen" as a concept, you're right. That's how cats mostly play, after all, so it makes sense that it's what the games are all about.

Cat Alone 2 has a variety of creatures to catch, including spiders, and has a unique selfie feature where it can periodically take a picture of your cat so you can see how engaged they are with the game.

Five Apple Video Games for Cats

If you've grabbed an Apple iPad instead of a Google device, you're going to be browsing the Apple App Store instead of Google Play for your app needs. Here are the five best cat-first games I've seen.

1: Mouse for Cats

This is the same game as the one mentioned in the Android section. In fact, it was an Apple game first and was only ported to Android later.

Otherwise, the games are the same; a mouse wanders the screen for your cat to catch, and you can configure various options about the mice and the number of mice on screen at once to keep your kitty captivated.

2: Pocket Ponds 2

Both Pocket Pond 1 and 2 exist on the Android and Apple app stores, so I've chosen to link to one for one and the other for the other. They're basically the same game, but with different kinds of fish and decorations, different progression, and other details changed.

Many people say that Pocket Ponds 1 is "harder" than 2, but when your cat is doing all the "work," it really doesn't matter.

3: Cat Fishing 2

Once again, this is another app that works for both Android and iOS platforms. Cat Fishing 2 has some convenient development behind it from Nestle, so it's a little more polished than some of the other apps out there.

In particular, it's harder to accidentally exit the game, which happens a lot with some of the less well-designed apps out there for cats.

4: Cat Alone 2

This one deserves a spot on both lists because, again, the cat selfie feature is pretty hilarious sometimes.

Catching your cat in the act of zeroing in on a creepy crawling is incredible, and those pictures make for great posts on Instagram and other social networks.

5: Cat Games

Wrapping up the iOS list, Cat Games is another variation on the same theme.

It features a few creatures you don't see in other games, like flamingos and bats, and it has a more cartoony aesthetic than some of the other games, but otherwise, it's basically the same thing.

The Laser Pointer Issue

In cat care, there's an opinion that cycles through communities fairly often, which is that laser pointers are a bad toy for cats. The reasoning is pretty simple: cats like to hunt, but more than that, they need to feel the fulfillment of actually catching their prey. This is why something like a feather wand or other physical toy is better than a laser because a cat can never catch a laser and will get frustrated at the constant hunt with no resolution.

Video games have the same issue: since your cat is just touching a screen, they don't have anything to grab and chew on.

There are ways to handle this, including ending with pointing the laser at a physical toy. You can't really get that with video games, though. That's why I recommended treats; when playtime is over, bring in a treat and reward them.

Help! My Cat Doesn't Play Video Games

Some cats have preferences. Not every cat will want to play with a screen, either because there's no real feedback for them or because it just doesn't interest them. They may want something more 3D than 2D to play with, or maybe the game is off-putting for another reason.

The truth is, every cat is different. Playing video games with your cat isn't necessarily going to work, and some cats just won't get engaged with an app no matter what.

If you're worried about whether or not your cat is going to be interested in a video game – particularly if you're trying to avoid spending a hundred bucks or so on a tablet they might not use – you can get any of these apps on your phone first and give them a try. If your cat is interested in them on a phone, they'll be just as interested in them on a tablet. That way, you can know whether or not the investment will be worthwhile.

Finally, to wrap things up, I wanted to make a special note that screen time and app-based play should not be the only way you play with your fur baby. For one thing, these apps stimulate hunting instincts, but unlike chasing a toy or laser pointer, your cat isn't actually getting any exercise while playing these games. You might end up with a cat that has the zoomies or is unnaturally frustrated because only some of their needs are being catered to.

Always try to keep your fur baby in the best health possible. That means, among other things, appropriate kinds of play. Video games can distract your furry feline friend while you're getting work done or otherwise can't play with them when they're active, but they should only be a supplement, not the main way you interact with your cat.

Have you ever played video games with your cat before? If so, what were their favorites? I'd love to hear all about your experiences and favorite stories, so be sure to leave those in the comments section!

Maybe your only experience with nail biting is the phrase and the use of exaggerated nail biting in cartoons. Maybe you even nibble them yourself.

You may have thoughts, feelings, and connotations about nail biting in your mind, and that can trigger some anxiety when you see your kitty doing the same thing.

Nail biting is common in cats. The question is, is it harmful? Let's talk about it!

What is Nail Biting, Chewing, and Pulling?

Cats do a lot to groom themselves and keep themselves tidy. Their adorable brush-like tongues comb through their fur, their curved claws scratch those hard-to-reach itches all over their bodies, and their teeth nibble at mats, things caught in fur, and anything else that needs a little bit of picking at.

Nail biting and chewing are just part of this routine. It happens when your fur baby uses their teeth to catch and pull at their nails, often while they're busy licking at their paws and cleaning in between their toes. Gotta keep those beans clean!

So why does this come across as a cause for concern? Two reasons, basically.

The first is that from a sheer physical perspective, it just seems so violent! Your fur baby is picking at, pulling, chewing, and biting their claws, and those tugs can be loud when they pop. How can something that looks and sounds like that not be painful or dangerous?

The second is the human condition. We people don't generally chew or bite our nails, particularly not as part of self-care and grooming.

But we do perform nail care, from clipping them to cleaning under and around them to full-on manicures. Cats just don't have access to any of those things, at least not of their own volition. They make do with what they have.

Why Cats Bite Their Nails

So why do cats bite and pull at their nails? There are a bunch of possible reasons.

The biggest reason is plain old grooming. Cat claws are pretty much constantly in contact with some kind of surface, and even indoors, there's a good chance there's dirt and debris around that they get into. As their claws wear down, they can crack and split, and dirt can get into them. It's a lot like when you have dirt or grime under your own nails; you want to clean it out, right? And you might use the little tools designed for the purpose – just called nail cleaners – but your fur baby can't do that. Not only do they not have tools or thumbs to use them, but their claws are shaped differently.

So, there's a decent chance your fur baby has dirt in their nails, and they just want to clean them out. Normally, licking will do the job well enough, but for stubborn dirt or little bits of debris stuck to their claws, they might need to use a bit more force.

Beyond just cleaning, it's also important to know how cat nails work in the first place.

For us, when our nails grow, they push outwards from the cuticle. It's a lot like hair in a way, in that it grows from the root, though, of course, our nails don't periodically fall out and start over the way hair does.

Cat claws kind of do the same thing, but they don't grow from the toe outwards, but from the quick outwards. It's a lot like rings in a tree: newer layers of claw growing up from the middle of the nail, hardening as they grow further out, and becoming the sharp, tough shell our fur babies use to scratch and scrape and climb.

Well, as new layers grow up in the middle, older layers on the outside need to be shed. Cats scratching at furniture, trees, scratching posts, doorframes, and other objects both mark their territory and shed those outer layers of claw. This is also why, when your cat is biting their nails, sometimes you find fragments of nails left behind when they're done. This is especially common if part of the nail chips away or breaks, leaving a rough hangnail that bothers them.

This isn't "ripping out their nails"; it's just the feline equivalent of giving their nails a trim. The whole process is like a fuzzy little manicure.

It's also possible that, while it looks like your fur baby is biting their nails, that's not actually the case. They might be chewing at the area between their toes or even using their claws to pick at something caught in their teeth. Regardless, though, it's all going back to one thing: grooming. It's perfectly natural and fine to let it happen.

When is Nail Chewing Abnormal?

Like everything else in this world, moderation is key. Most of the time, if your cat is chewing and biting their nails, it's perfectly fine. In fact, the fact that they're even willing to do their grooming in front of you is a show of trust; some cats prefer to hide away in a comfortable spot to do that grooming, and you might never see it.

Sometimes, though, nail biting can get excessive and cause problems or be a sign of other problems. What are those other problems? What can cause excess nail biting?

A toe or nail injury is one of the most common reasons why your cat might be excessively biting or chewing at their nails. A broken claw, for example, is a common cause. If a claw breaks, it can be sensitive and even painful, and licking, biting, and chewing can be a soothing behavior to alleviate or control that pain. It's also a way to keep a broken nail clean to help avoid infection, though, of course, our fur babies don't have the cleanest mouths, and it's still not exactly sterile.

Similarly, toe injuries like cuts, scrapes, or punctures can be painful and irritating, and they may be chewing and licking at their feet to try to soothe those injuries. If you notice your fur baby is chewing their nails but they're also bleeding, that can be a sign that something is wrong.

A related issue is if you or a groomer were trying to trim their nails and did it wrong. Too short nails can expose the sensitive inner core of the nail itself, including the quick, which leads to bleeding, pain (because of the nerve in the nail), and irritation. Your fur baby will probably lick and chew at them to make them feel better and ease that pain.

The opposite issue – nails that grow too long – can lead to the same sort of behavior. Usually, your cat will have ways to keep their nails shorter, usually through scratching things like wooden surfaces like they might find on furniture and doorframes or floors. If they can't do that, they might turn to chewing as a way to help shed a layer or three of nail to make it more comfortable to walk. Overgrown and ingrown nails are a problem with cats that are passively neglected and aren't capable of caring for their own nails.

Along the same lines, an infection can lead to excessive chewing and licking. Infections are irritating and painful, and they cause swelling, and all of this is something your fur baby wants to deal with but doesn't have the tools to handle. Until our feline friends invent their own version of modern pharmaceuticals, they'll just have to be content with licking and picking until we notice and bring them to a vet for a checkup.

Finally, there's a whole category of mental and cognitive issues that can lead to nail biting and picking. This is actually a lot like how it occurs in humans; nail biting is a stimulating activity that can occupy the mind and soothe the body despite being broadly detrimental if it's done in excess. Things that can cause it include:

• Boredom. Cats that have nothing to do, no one to play with, and no trouble to get into are going to need some source of stimulation, and nail biting may be one that they turn to. This can be especially reinforced if, when you notice it, you give them attention; it teaches them that they can get attention from nail biting.
• Anxiety. All sorts of negative and compulsive behaviors can crop up in our beloved fur babies when some major life change happens, including moving houses (or just a major rearranging of the furniture), an injury or illness, the loss of a partner animal or a roommate; just about any major change, really. Cats are creatures of habit, and when those habits are disturbed, they can resort to more primal and less comfortable behaviors, including nail biting.
• Stress and frustration. An example from Dr. Nicolas Dodman is that something as simple as a squirrel or bird that likes to sit outside your window and taunt your cat can be a source of frustration; it's right there, priming their hunting instincts, but they can't do anything about it. That frustration needs to be let out somehow, and nail biting can be one way they get that stress relief.

With all that in mind, then, you have two more questions: how can you tell when nail biting is abnormal, and how can you stop it?

Is My Cat's Nail Biting Bad?

Truthfully, most of the time, you'll be able to tell if your cat is biting their nails to an excessive degree. You might notice that it's particularly violent or happens seemingly constantly and that their nails are short, bleeding, broken, or otherwise damaged.

If you're concerned, you can schedule a vet trip, but this is definitely not emergency vet territory unless there are signs of an injury or infection. If your fur baby's toes are swollen, leaking pus, or bleeding, then you will want a more urgent vet trip.

How to Minimize Cat Nail Biting

First of all, if you think your cat is biting their nails excessively, consult with your vet. They can advise you as to whether or not it's likely to be a medical issue that could require medication to treat, like an injury or an infection.

Secondly, if your cat is biting their nails but it's not excessive or compulsive, it's generally not a problem. Normal nail biting is just part of grooming, and you shouldn't try to stop it any more than you'd want to stop them from licking their fur.

If they have excessive nail biting, and it's not caused by an infection or injury, you have a few options.

First, find ways to alleviate their stress. Small amounts of aromatherapy, making sure they have a safe space they can go to hide where they won't be bothered, and establishing a routine are all helpful here.

Most importantly, make sure they have things they can scratch. I know you don't want them scratching the walls or the furniture, but they are going to scratch something; it's just a matter of what. Provide them with scratching surfaces that you allow and encourage them to scratch.

Ideally, you want to have several different kinds of surfaces so they can care for their nails in different ways. A good trio would be a wooden post they can scratch, a sisal post, and one of those disposable cardboard pads they can go to town on. All three of these serve different purposes and suit different needs. You can read more about scratching posts here.

Put scratching posts and objects in different areas as well. You want them to be able to be used as territory markings as well as grooming tools, after all.

It can also be a good idea to help keep your fur baby's nails trimmed yourself. Some cats don't mind their paws being handled and their claws being trimmed – as long as you're careful not to hit the quick – but others absolutely hate it. Don't stress your cat out fighting with them! As long as they can care for their own paws, you shouldn't make things worse, but if they do have problems, professional grooming or vet care can help.

So, after reading this article, did you have any questions about nail biting, why cats do it, or anything else related to the topic? If you do, be sure to leave me a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible! I'm always more than happy to help my readers however I can!

Let's consider a scenario. You have a happy household with a pair of rambunctious dogs. You love every minute with these furballs, all the ups and all the downs, and you've never really thought about adding more to your household.

Then, one day, you're out doing some yard work, and you hear a plaintive cry from the bushes. A single, cartoonishly long, high-pitched whine. Then, from out of the leaf litter and debris comes a cat. She's clearly young, a runt maybe, and she's not doing well. One eye is a little crusty, her fur is matted, and she's all skin and bones.

You can't just leave her there, right? Of course not. This cat, who has been through so much, nevertheless worked up the courage to come into your life and ask you for help. Despite her ills, she's purring as she rubs your legs.

So, obviously, of course, you bring this poor creature to your vet. You get her cleaned up, fed, checked for a chip (none, of course), and vaccinated. Now you're just left with one big issue:

What will the doggos think?

Alright, so this is a bit of an emergency situation. You don't have a lot of time to prepare, but you can still introduce a cat to your dog-first household without too much issue. With a little care, attention, training, and watchfulness, you can introduce a cat to a dog family and end up with a happy family in no time.

Set Up a Safe Room

The first thing you need to know is that there's essentially zero chance that this is going to go well if you just put the cat in your living room and let things sort themselves out.

Cats and dogs have different kinds of body language, different ways of interacting with one another, and different kinds of signs to back off. They don't necessarily understand one another, and one creature's curious investigation might be coming on a little too strong.

It's also important to remember that our animals have much better senses of smell, taste, and hearing than we do. That's why our dogs can get up and bark at the sounds of a raccoon in the yard in the middle of the night or why they can smell that one gross pile of garbage half a mile away and make a beeline for it when you let them out of your sight.

So, here's what you do. Your dogs have the run of the house, but you need to pick a room to designate as your cat safe room. This should be a place with a door that closes and that your dogs can't open (and yes, some of those little Houdinis can get into all sorts of places they shouldn't, so you need this to be secure.) A baby gate won't do the trick. At most, you want the barest gap under the door.

Before you bring the cat into your home, pull your dogs aside and put them in, oh, anywhere. A garage, a closet, another bedroom, the basement; the point is, somewhere they aren't going to be at your feet and trying to investigate the now-terrified cat in your arms.

You can let your dogs back out in a few minutes. You just want to bring the cat to the safe room without your dogs catching sight of her – and without her seeing the dogs. They'll definitely know one another are there, from the scents and the sounds, but keep sight out of the picture for now.

Make sure the cat safe room has everything your cat will need.

• A cozy spot to hide.
• A litter box.
• Food and water bowls.
• A bed and bedding with several blankets or other objects.
• A toy or two.

You're going to be spending some time in this room, both helping the cat feel more comfortable and making sure your dogs don't bother her too much.

You will be keeping your animals out of sight of one another for at least three days, and more likely closer to a week. Remember, cats are creatures of habit, and you've massively disrupted the habits of this poor suffering stray (or, you know, a fresh new adoption you found, or a friend's cat they can no longer care for, or whatever.) Your goal is to shrink her world to something she can feel safe in, something she can control. If you just let her have the run of the house, there's a decent chance she'll bolt out the door the first chance she gets.

Exchange Scents

Now, you're going to be spending time with both the cat and the dogs, but that's not really enough of what you need here. This is where the bedding comes in. Your goal is to get both creatures used to each others' scents.

So, after a day or two of using the bedding, take one or two of the blankets from the cat safe room and put them out in the wider house for the dogs to explore and investigate. At the same time, bring something from the dogs – a stray toy, a blanket, a pillow – and put it in the cat's safe room. Make sure the cat still has their own bedding to use, and don't put the dog's object in the cat's safe space; just make it part of the room.

Open the Door

Once the cat is a little more used to this situation and is doing less hiding and more exploration, you can move on to the next phase of introduction. Your next step is visual introductions. You need the safe room to still be a safe space, but you want to introduce the animals to each other visually. A baby gate is usually ideal, but if you have dogs that are likely to try to jump it or push past it, you'll need to keep them close and supervised.

Basically, your goal is to let the animals see each other. They already know each other by scent, but now they can "put a face to the name," so to speak. Unless all parties are very friendly and used to other animals, chances are there's going to be a good amount of anxiety and staring.

This is one of the primary differences in body language and why cats and dogs sometimes don't seem to get along. In cat language, staring is a challenge. The "slow blink" and look away works on cats because it's the body language they use when they're comfortable with one another. Dogs, meanwhile, are just curious and will stare at that cat like there's no tomorrow. Your dogs don't mean anything by it – certainly not a challenge – but it will probably make the cat wary and uncomfortable.

This is why supervision is important. Make sure the two are still separate but can see each other. If there's hissing and barking, try to calm your dogs or end the session and try again in another day or so.

Explore the Floor

Once the critters are more accepting of each others' presence, it's time to let the cat explore more of your home. After all, it's going to be her home, too, right?

You want to set aside some time, like half an hour, for the cat to explore. Close off some of the trickier rooms or places where she could get into trouble (for example, if you have a basement with crawl space access, just keep the basement door closed.)

What do you do with the doggos during this time? Put them somewhere else. You can close them in a different room (not the cat's safe room), or you can put them outside if you have a yard, or even have a friend or partner take them for a nice long walk. This is the cat's introduction to the house, not to the dogs.

You'll probably want to do this a couple of times, and when the cat seems to have had enough, bring them back to the safe room and bring the dogs back in. Remember, this can be a long process, particularly if your furry children don't quite know how to get along yet.

Full Introductions

At this point, your cat is very likely hoping to get out of that tiny enclosed space and is much more willing to brave the presence of dogs to explore. Meanwhile, your dogs are still excited and curious, but they aren't going ape trying to get a glimpse of this elusive feline.

Basically, you want to leash up your pups and keep them at your side, but arm yourself with a bag of treats. Meanwhile, let the cat out of her safe room and let her roam. She's going to explore, but this time, the dogs are there to watch.

This is where training on the part of your doggos comes in very important. If they aren't very well-behaved, this is going to be a long and tricky process. If they're obedient, though, you can sit them by your side and let them watch as she explores. Reward them when they relax and look away, and if they get a little too curious and start to get up and go, sit them back down.

Now, you're just gradually removing barriers between them. As your new cat family member starts to get more comfortable around the dogs, and the dogs get a little less curious about the cat, you can start giving them a longer lead, letting the cat get closer, and eventually removing the leashes entirely.

This might take a few days with friendly and calm animals, or it might take a couple of weeks with a nervous cat and excitable dogs. Over time, the barriers will be completely removed, and within a month or so, they'll be able to coexist without more than the occasional scuffle. Your cat might still need her place to go and hide and will probably want to keep her personal space dog-free, but she'll let them get closer.

What if They Don't Get Along?

There are two cases where a new cat won't get along with your dogs.

The first is if you've proceeded too fast and are trying to rush the introductions faster than your cat is willing to accept. She'll be anxious and scared, will hide, and will likely hiss and possibly even bat at the dogs. This is a sign that you're pushing things too hard and too fast and will need to back off, reestablish barriers and the safe zone for the cat, keep the dogs further away, and generally slow down the pace of introductions. The better you do with introductions, the happier your household will be.

The second case is where you have a cat that is very frightened of dogs, or vice versa; dogs that are either very scared of or very aggressive towards a cat. For one reason or another, your animals aren't going to get along, and while it's potentially possible for them to eventually feel comfortable in one another's presence, it might take a very long time, and it could be dangerous in the interim.

You can try to redirect aggression between the two and keep going with treats and training to try to supersede the aggression with discipline, but it's occasionally just an irreconcilable difference. In these cases, unfortunately, you either have your work cut out for you, or you might just not be able to keep the two together. You can still find a loving home for this poor feline fur baby, but it might not be viable to keep her in your home. It's a tough decision, but it's one you'll need to make.

Fortunately, nearly all anxiety and aversion short of true, unchecked, unrestrained aggression can be trained away, and your animals will get along with one another when it's all said and done. Just be prepared to take the time you need to get them off on the right paws together.

Have you ever had to introduce a new cat to your dog or vice versa? If so, what was your experience like? Was it a challenge, or was it actually quite easy? Let me know in the comments section down below! I'd love to hear all your stories!

So, how do you keep your furry child safe outside? Let's talk about it.

Three Kinds of Outdoor Cats

The first thing you should do is figure out what kind of "outdoor" cat you want your cat to be.

The first and worst kind is the escapee. This is your fully indoor cat who slips out the door when no one is looking and finds themselves lost in the great outdoors. Sometimes, these cats stick close to home and find their way back in short order; others go on lengthy journeys or even get lost, unfortunately forever. I try not to think about these too much; it's just so sad!

The second kind of outdoor cat is the cat on supervised field trips. This is the ideal way for a kitty to experience the great outdoors; you put them in a harness and watch their every move, keeping them from going too far or getting into too much trouble. A famous example of an extreme kind of "adventure cat" is Sigrid, the internet sensation.

The third kind of outdoor cat is the indoor-outdoor kitty. These are halfway between stray and feral cats and fully indoor domesticated kitties. They like to roam and explore, they get into trouble, and they're a lot more likely to end up with fleas, ticks, or worms, but they also know that they have a warm and safe place to come home to and a steady supply of food, so they don't have to scrounge for scraps or get into trouble while hunting.

There's also a fourth kind of outdoor cat, which is the truly outdoor "barn cat" kind of cat, but that's a whole different beast. These kinds of cats are often half-feral, aloof, independent, and capable of taking care of themselves… more or less. You can still take a few actions to protect them, but they'll be resistant to others. Unfortunately, these kinds of cats often live much shorter lives even when you protect and care for them; the pressures and conditions they face, the threats all around them, and the diseases and injuries all add up. That's why I always say, if you can, bring your cats inside and keep them there.

Ideally, your cat will be the second type. The third type is also acceptable if they're well cared for and you can take actions to keep them safe. The fourth are harder to protect, and the first is a devastating scenario no one wants to face. 

In any case, if your cat spends any time outside, there are some steps you can take to try to make things safer for them.

Keep Your Kitty on a Harness and Supervise Outdoor Playtime

The best thing you can do if your cat really, really, really wants to get outside but you want to keep them as safe as possible is to spend time with them outdoors. Most cats can be trained to tolerate or even enjoy being put in a harness and kept on a leash, and with the other end of the leash in your hand, you can make sure they never leave your view, don't get into things they shouldn't, and keep well clear of harm's way.

There are a few downsides to the leash method, though.

• Some cats really, really don't like being put in a harness. It can take a lot of training to get them to tolerate it enough to even let you put it on, let alone enjoy the outdoors with it, so be willing to take the time.
• You need to be available to supervise their outdoor time. If you're busy, at work all the time, or otherwise not able to enjoy that time with your fur baby, the leash method isn't the best option.
• Some of these fuzzy little escape artists can slip the leash and disappear before you know it. Be ready in case they try to give you the slip!

Thankfully, supervising some outdoor playtime helps you see what your fur baby really wants to do outside, and that can help you find more ways to enrich their time spent indoors so they don't feel as much of an urge to escape.

Get Your Cat Chipped

Even if your cat is a fully indoor cat, it's usually a good idea to get them chipped. Microchips, inserted under the skin near the nape of the neck, are a key way to identify a cat if they get lost or wander off and are picked up by someone else.

Contrary to popular belief, though, a microchip doesn't actually have any sort of tracking functionality. It's basically just a digital business card with information about you: your name, address, contact information, and maybe a bit of information about your cat, like if they're FIV+ or their name. It's all critical information that can help anyone who finds your cat then find you and reunite you two.

Note: There are GPS trackers available, which you can put on a cat's collar and will track their position. Things like the Tractive can work pretty well if your fur baby tolerates wearing it.

Even indoor cats should be microchipped, so if they happen to slip out the door when you're bringing in groceries, anyone who finds them can bring them back to you.

Make Sure They're Updated on Shots

One of the most important ways to protect your cat in the event they spend any time outside is to make sure they're updated on their shots and other treatments. The outdoors can be a scary place, but some of the greatest threats aren't even visible; they're fleas, ticks, worms carried by other critters, and even diseases spread by other cats.

Always make sure your cats are up to date on their vaccines, and try to keep them up to date on flea and other antiparasitic treatments. That way, if fleas get on them and try to breed, they'll just die off, ticks won't be able to latch on for long, worms won't be able to breed, and your kitty's immune system will fight off any diseases they're exposed to.

This won't help them stay safe from something like an aggressive neighborhood dog, a local hawk or owl, or a speeding car, of course, but it can help with the more insidious kinds of threats found in everyday life outside.

Give Them a Collar with Tags and a Bell

Just like how a microchip carries with it identification information, so too does a collar.

A collar also serves a few other purposes:

• It can carry tags that have more information that is more readily available to a good Samaritan. Instead of needing to take your cat to a vet to check for a chip, they can just read the tag, find where you live, and bring your fur baby back.
• It can carry a bell, which can help warn prey animals when the cat is around, which not only helps keep local wildlife safe but also helps prevent your cat from getting in a tussle with a critter that can fight back.
• It shows at a glance that the cat is owned and loved and isn't just a stray that can be adopted or otherwise taken in. 

Some cats really don't like wearing collars. Unfortunately, if that's the case, it might be better to just avoid letting your cat out at all.

Implement a Kitty Curfew

Even if you let your cat out to do their own wandering, you want to do everything you can to make sure they're back before it gets dark.

Why? Many of the most dangerous threats to a cat come out at night. Cars don't have as much time to react to a cat dashing into their headlights in a split second. Coyotes and other predators tend to be bolder and come out at night to hunt. Owls of sufficient size might also see your fur baby as a meal, though, of course, hawks are around during the day, so that one is kind of a wash.

Either keep your cat inside when the sun goes down or try to train them to come home when it gets dark out. Some people have even had success with training their cats to come when called or include a remote beeper on their collar and train them to come home when it beeps. There are a bunch of ways you can try to train them.

Try to Reduce Nearby Hazards

If your cat is going to be outside, you can do some work to help prepare the area and make it safer for them.

Things you can do include:

• Look for plants in your yard that are toxic to your fur baby and get rid of them.
• Consider seeding your lawn with a tick repellant to help minimize the chances of the parasites showing up.
• Remove hazards like debris piles, holes your cat might not be able to get out of, or sharp and rusty items that can hurt them.

There are some things you won't be able to get rid of, like traffic on your street. Also, be aware that cats often roam at least an acre of land, and there may be hazards outside of your control.

Keep a Supply of Food and Water Available

For indoor/outdoor cats that spend a significant portion of their time outdoors, and for "barn cats" that spend all their time outdoors, you want to provide them with some element of safety and security. The biggest thing you can do is provide food and water for them.

This can be tricky sometimes. In the winter, for example, water can freeze unless you have some way to keep it warm or you continually refresh it. In the summer, it can dry up a lot more quickly than you might imagine, especially if it's in the sunlight. This is why having a shelter can be a great idea.

On top of that, you don't really have a way to protect the food and water from other creatures that might want to use it. Local raccoons, skunks, and other creatures are likely to find and use your resources, and that can breed conflict with your fur baby. Try to monitor what's going on, and take preventative measures if you can.

Furthermore, you want to make sure you have a comfortable spot for your cats to hang out. Warmth in the winter, shade in the summer, an enclosed space for them to hide when they feel threatened; these are all essentials. If you can't bring them inside, bring the inside to them.

Build a Catio Instead

A catio is an enclosed space that is more open to the outdoors. Small catios hang outside of windows and offer a sunny perch for a cat to get some sunlight and fresh air without truly being outside. Larger catios can even be the size of outdoor dog kennels but more carefully enclosed and full of fun things for a cat to do. They can be a great way to bring your fur baby "outside" without them truly being free to roam.

For a little more freedom, if you have a fenced-in yard, you can install a cat-proof fence to help keep them inside. Your fence needs to be adequate, touching the ground with no gaps your cat can squeeze through, but the top-of-fence protection can keep your fur baby in your yard and away from the greatest sources of danger.

So, what do you think? Do you feel more secure in letting your fur baby outside after you take these precautions? For my part, I prefer the harness method. A lot of cats don't really like it, but they can be trained to tolerate it, and keeping them in sight is always better for my peace of mind. Let me know your thoughts in the comments section down below!

Luckily, it goes beyond the cute pictures you get of your cat perched up on the highest surface or giving them a vantage point to look out the windows. Cat trees can actually have a bunch of beneficial effects on the health and well-being of your cat, and you!

What are they? Read on to find out.

1: Your Cat Gets a Sense of Safety and Security

Cats are naturally independent, and while they aren't necessarily solitary, they do like to have their own personal space. This might be a space on a shelf they like to crawl into, a dark gap under a bed they sneak into, or another nook or cranny in the house. But it might also be on the cat tree.

One of the biggest benefits of a cat tree is its height. You might notice that your fur baby likes to spend their time perched way up top, as high as they can get. That's because cats naturally tend to like high, tall places.

The "cat in a tree" isn't stuck up there; they're surveying their domain.

"These benefits aren't just theoretical: there's research to back them up. "One study of cats living in a research facility showed that adding shelving units to their living space reduced anti-social behavior among the cats," Dr. Conrad explains.

When you consider all the ways a tree can enrich your cat's space, this should come as no surprise. "Encouraging appropriate play and providing safe spaces reduces aggression between cats—and toward their humans," agrees Dr. Taylor." - Rover.

Height brings security with it. Many predators aren't going to climb a tree after them, they can see threats or prey approaching from a vantage point, and it helps minimize their blind spots. While most of that isn't actually applicable to a cat living in the comfort of your home, it's still going to mimic the benefits they feel in nature, and that's often enough.

2: It Can Work as a Scratching Post

Scratching is a natural behavior cats indulge in every day. They do it to mark their territory, both by making visible scratches on a surface and by spreading small scents that emanate from their precious little toe beans. They also do it as part of self-care; scratching will break bits of nail away and keep their claws both sharp and short. If a claw grows too long, it can make it hard for them to walk, and in extreme cases, it can even curl back in and become painful!

Scratching at a scratching post is a great habit for a cat to get into, as well. They're going to scratch, pretty much no matter what; it's just a matter of what they scratch. You can train them to scratch a scratching post or other designated object rather than scratching at the furniture, the doorframes, or some other object you really don't want to be torn to shreds.

Most of the best cat trees have wrapping or a "shell" that serves excellently as a scratching post. They may or may not be replaceable, but chances are, it's going to take a long while before your cat does enough damage to a cat tree to make it unstable or topple and break. 

If you want to read more about how to train a cat to scratch only what they're supposed to, I wrote a whole guide over here. Check it out!

Note: scratching is also a form of stress relief. It works in a couple of ways; to your cat, it feels good, and it works out some of their stress and frustration. Cats also like to be surrounded by their own scent, so scent-marking things around them makes them feel more comfortable. In times of stress, you might see your cat scratching more; that's not a bad thing.

3: It Gives Them Another Great Way to Stretch

When you get up in the morning, what's one of the first things you do? For many people, it's a big yawn and a big stretch. For cats, too, waking up from a nap means uncurling from a probably awkward position, and they want to stretch themselves out.

While the familiar paws-stretched, butt-up position is a typical stretch for a cat, they might also want to work some other muscles, and a nice tall stretch up a cat tree can help a lot as well.

4: Distance and Usable Space

I already mentioned that cats love to be up high, but there's another reason why that vertical space is beneficial. Two, actually!

The first is that it helps your cat get some distance between them and something that may be bothering them. Maybe it's the Roomba, tooling around their living area. Maybe it's a child who just wants to pet the kitty and doesn't know how to recognize the body language saying, "Leave me alone." Maybe it's another cat, and they're getting into conflict over space, and one needs to step away for a moment. 

Whatever the case is, when one cat can hop to the top of the cat tree and hang out, they're in a defensible position where they can be free from disturbance, at least for a little while.

The second reason applies most to smaller homes, apartments, condos, and other living spaces without a lot of extra space. A cat tree helps make more "room" in your room by giving more vertical space for your cat to hang out. To you, it's just an object; to your cat, it's a whole dimension of extra space to play around in, hang out on, and explore. It's enriching, it's fulfilling, and it's a brilliant investment.

You might notice that your fur baby likes to get into trouble by hopping up onto counters, desks, bookshelves, the top of the fridge, the top of the cupboards, and anything else they can reach. That's the same deal. By giving them a nice, tall cat tree to spend time on, you might even be able to cut back on them getting into places you don't want them.

5: Safe Feeding

This one might not be applicable, depending on your household.

So, do you have more than one cat, or a cat and a dog? If so, there's a chance that your cat, or one of your cats, is being bullied. One of the most common ways this happens is when a cat goes to eat, and another critter decides they want in on that lunch. Dogs, ravenous cuddle-beasts that they are, can easily scarf up a cat's bowl of food in just a few seconds if they have half a mind to do it. Another cat might want more and might bully the first cat away from the food dish.

This is why experts recommend that each animal have their own feeding bowl and, in some cases, feeding location. It doesn't matter where you put the bowls if all the animals congregate there, but if each has their own space, it's easier to be left alone.

A cat tree can make for a safer space for one cat to be fed. They can get up high where a dog can't follow, and they can have their designated space where another cat might not dare to tread. 

Of course, this also runs the risk of one cat being bullied away from the cat tree, but hey, then you can just get a second cat tree to put somewhere else. One food bowl, one litter box, and one cat tree per cat. Seems reasonable to me!

What to Look for in a Good Cat Tree

So, if you're convinced that you should have a cat tree for your furry feline friend, what kind of tree should you get? There are tons of them on the market, after all. Here's what you can look for.

• Height. Your cat tree should be at least five feet tall to allow for maximum height for your fur baby. Anything smaller can still be a fun cat condo, but it's not going to be the tree experience your cat truly longs for.
• Toys. A good cat tree should have some dangly bits and other toys that can make it an enriching experience for your cat to enjoy. It's not a substitute for playing with them yourself, but it's still good.
• Spaces. Good cat trees should have at least one, if not more than one, hidey-hole that a cat can crawl into to hide away from prying eyes. A simple tube, a box, a nook; whatever it is, it should be easy to get into, secure, and comforting.
• Stability. Probably the most important part of a tall cat tree is a stable, heavy base. You don't want your fur baby to jump up to the top and tip the whole thing over, right? A stable, heavy base will prevent any accidents and damage to you, your household, or your fur baby.
• Material. If the cat tree has a space for cats to scratch, make sure it's something that isn't going to hurt them, either through chemicals, splinters, fibers, or other issues. The main material should be durable and easy enough to clean so that if your fur baby has an accident, you can handle it. Sisal, cardboard, and scratch carpet are all good for coatings over a nice, solid wood.

Do you really need all the bells, whistles, toys, and accessories? Well, probably not. There are plenty of basic cat trees out there, too, everything from a couple of shelves on a pole to a box on a stick. The sky really is the limit, though; you can get huge, elaborate cat metropolises, ornately themed and decorated cat skyscrapers, and anything in between. Really, it's entirely up to you what you want on your cat tree.

Don't forget, too, that if you buy a basic one and want to modify it, you can always just attach a toy, glue on some carpet, wrap the trunk with sisal, or otherwise change it to suit your cat's preferences. They aren't static! You can even buy a cat bed and attach it to a shelf.

When you get one, figure out where you want to put it. In front of a window, near where you spend your time, is generally a good spot. You want them to have a space they can sit and feel comfortable, sharing space with you and giving them a view they can enjoy. 

Should You Build Your Own Cat Tree?

If you want! There are all sorts of instructions and kits out there that you can buy, or you can build one yourself out of materials you can generally find at any hardware store. The biggest caveat is simply to not build it out of wood that has been treated with chemicals that are toxic to cats. All it really takes is some screws, glue, lumber, rope or carpet, and maybe some staples, twine, and cat toys. It's actually pretty easy to build a cat tree, whether it's from scratch or following a kit.

The biggest downside to building your own, other than needing the skills, tools, and materials to do it, is that you're responsible if it fails. Purchased cat trees often have warranties, but one you make yourself certainly won't. Still, it's pretty unlikely that something is going to fail catastrophically, right?

Now, here's where you come in. I know many of you have fur babies of your own, and I'm sure many of you with cats have cat trees. So, tell me about them! Show me pictures, tell me where you got it or how you made it, and how your cat enjoys it. I love to hear your stories, so let me read them!

Of course, for those of us with wooden furniture, upholstery, leather, or anything those cat claws can dig into, they will, and it's not long before all of our furniture is torn to shreds, our curtains are in tatters, and our smug little kittens are ever so proud of themselves.

Wouldn't it be nice if they had some sense of etiquette?

Well, unfortunately, there's not really etiquette when it comes to cats, just training.

Fortunately, you can train a cat, even if many people think of it as an untenable practice for cats with their fierce independence and resistance to instructions, I have firsthand knowledge that it can be done.

So, how do you train a cat to not scratch your furniture? More importantly, how do you allow them the freedom to scratch things you purchase for them such as their scratching post?

Today you’ll learn what to do and what not to do to stop your cat from scratching your furniture.

For believers in the spritz bottle as a good disciplinarian tool, this post comes with a great educational video by Jason Galaxy AKA “the Cat Daddy,” don’t miss it!

So let’s begin.

Can Cats be Trained?

Yes, they can. Contrary to popular belief, cats are just as trainable as dogs. Pet parents that understand basic cat nature are able to get their cats to perform a number of desired behaviors on command.

From training your cat to allow grooming to training them to let your brush their teeth to training them to sleep in their own bed instead of yours, the sky is the limit for what your cat can do when provided with the right incentives and positive reinforcement.

My 20+ years of experience raising 4 kitties from kittenhood to adulthood has proven to me that cats are indeed trainable. Check my blog for more on cat behavior.

Sadly, many cat parents believe undesirable behavior can’t be changed. According to the ASPCA and Four Paws International behavioral issues are one of the top reasons cats are surrendered to shelters.

The widespread misconception that cats are untrainable leads many pet parents to give up cats with behavioral challenges.

You may not know this but according to a report by the Humane Society of the United States, of all cats entering shelters annually (3.2M) in the United States, about 58% (that’s 530,000 cats) are euthanized every year.

“People don’t traditionally train cats because they think of cats as... independent and full of free will…What they don’t realize, though, is that they are subconsciously training their cats on a daily basis.” - Sarah Ellis for National Geographic

By focusing on providing timely rewards for desired behaviors while avoiding any type of punishment and ignoring undesired ones, pet parents can help cats adopt acceptable and wanted behaviors while making a huge difference in their lives.

Set Realistic Expectations for Yourself

First things first: know what you're getting into. You can’t expect your cat to just stop scratching.

Cats naturally scratch. It's part of their nature, and it's not a behavior you can get rid of. What you can do is teach them what is and isn't acceptable to scratch, with positive reinforcement for the behaviors you want.

Even with immaculate training and consistent reinforcement, you're also probably not going to be able to fully prevent your cat from scratching your furniture.

Sometimes, their furry little brains just push the urge, and they can't help themselves. But you can cut it down from constant to once in a blue moon, and that's good enough for most cat parents.

Don't Declaw a Cat

I know it's probably not something I need to tell you, my fantastic animal-loving audience, but it's worth reiterating just in case: never declaw a cat.

While declawing a cat will stop them from being able to destroy your furniture, if you’re ever watched a declawed cat, they still perform the motions of scratching, albeit without claws.

The fact is, declawing a cat is incredibly inhumane and dozens of countries have banned the practice. Here in the U.S., New York and Maryland have banned the surgery with several states introducing legislation to follow suit.

This elective procedure is not for the health and well-being of the cat, it’s for the peace of mind of their human caregivers. Imagine if your fingertips, were cut off at the knuckle just because someone wanted you to stop biting your nails. It just doesn’t make sense, does it?

Declawing is the removal of that last knuckle in a cat. You're basically maiming a living creature to save a piece of furniture.

Stop for a minute and reflect on this.

Not only are you altering the intended anatomy of an animal forever, but this irreversible procedure can also lead to long-term pain and litterbox issues.

The bottom line here is the believed perceived benefits simply do not outweigh the damage caused.

By trimming their nails frequently (my boys get a pawdicure every toe beans Tuesday) you can avoid a lot of the damage razor sharp claws can cause. And with the training we’ll get into next, you can direct those trimmed claws to more appropriate scratching surfaces.

Avoid Punishment

In animal training, there are concepts called positive reinforcement and negative reinforcement. Most people don't actually know what they mean, though, even if you think you do.

Positive reinforcement is a reward for a behavior that reinforces that behavior. Simple, right?

Negative reinforcement is where people get mixed up. It's actually just removing something that increases the likelihood of the appropriate behavior being taken.

An animal-related example comes from horse riding; if you want to steer a horse, you apply pressure; when they turn the right way, you remove the pressure, reinforcing the behavior you want.

Most people think of negative reinforcement as adding something (a sharp word, a spritz from the spray bottle) to disincentivize a behavior.

That's actually punishment, the counterpart to reinforcement. Moreover, it's positive punishment, the addition of a reaction that punishes the behavior.

Read More Cat Behavior Guides

• The Science Behind Why Cats Knead or "Make Biscuits"
• Multi Cat Households: Do Cats Like Other Cats?
• How to Safely and Easily Get Your Cat into a Cat Carrier

Negative punishment, meanwhile, would be the removal of something due to the behavior. Sending your kid to bed without dessert is an example.

Unfortunately, out of these four options – positive and negative, reinforcement and punishment – the only one that reliably works for animals like cats is positive reinforcement.

• Negative reinforcement relies on having some sort of negative stimulus, which for a cat might be simply screaming “No,” or using an annoying noise or scent then removing it when they scratch the right thing.

“You think you’re scolding, but you’re “inadvertently giving the cat attention, which, in the cat’s mind, is better than nothing, and so it’s rewarding,” - National Geographic

Unfortunately, there's no association between negative and behavior, so they don't know what to do, and it can end up stressing them out.

• Positive punishment, like the spritz bottle, can sometimes be effective but can be borderline animal abuse, depending on what you're using. A spritz bottle is just about the most you can do, and even then, you need to be very diligent with it if you want it to be effective.

The Best and Worst Ways to Train Your Cat | Jackson Galaxy | 6:50 Min Video

• Negative punishment just doesn't work. Animals don't have the higher reasoning to understand that something being taken away is because of a behavior, so it just doesn't work.

“Most punishments are not given at the right time or are not the appropriate type for the situation. In fact, studies have shown that punishment and confrontational training techniques are more likely to lead to fear, avoidance, and increased aggression.” – Merck Veterinary Manual

So, to set you and your cat up for success, focus on praise and reward your feline friend for properly scratching the right thing and gently but firmly redirect them if they scratch the wrong thing.

“Timing is everything in training your cat. Cats have short attention spans, so the reward must come immediately (within seconds) of the behavior, or your cat may not know what it’s for.” - Humane Society of Huron Valley

Invest in a Good Scratching Post

In order to give your cat something to scratch that you can accept being torn apart, you want to get them a scratching post. You might be thinking, I already have one.

Many pet parents tend to think a scratching post is a scratching post is a scratching post, right? Well, not really. Believe it or not there is a little bit of an art and science behind getting the right scratching post for your cat.

It comes down to making sure you get your cat a scratching post they'll love instead of just a scratching post. There’s actually a big difference.

So, uh. What does that mean?

It basically means knowing how to pick a great scratching post for your cat. There are four features you should consider when purchasing a scratching post.

Stability

First, you need a scratching post that is firm in its position. Cats like to scratch things like furniture and doorframes because among other things, they're solid and don't wiggle or tip over, much like the trees and other things they would scratch out in the wild.

Size

Second, make sure the scratching post is size appropriate. Kittens can get away with using a small post, but as your kitten grows into a beautiful adult cat, their post needs to be long enough that they can get a good stretch while scratching. So, the larger the cat, the longer the post needs to be.

Orientation

Third, the position of the post is also important. Many cats like a scratching post that stands tall and vertical, just like those trees. Others, though prefer a horizontal surface they can scratch. Some like to have both options (my two kittens, Luca and Fabri, for example love to scratch their posts just as much as they do the carpet).

As I write this post, the boys have successfully completed the first few modules of “Scratching Etiquette 101” training.

If you've had your cat for a good while and you've seen what they like to scratch, you'll be able to pick something that comes close.

Alternatively, if you're working with a new kitten, a new foster, or a new adoption, though, you'll just have to see what they prefer, so give them both options to try out.

Texture

Finally, you have to consider texture. Cats can be picky, and they'll often have a preference. As we all know, though, those feline friends of ours can't tell us what they want. So, you need to try out a few different options and see what they like.

• Raw wood. Some cats enjoy a good 4x4 post or some wood mimicking what you find outdoors. You have to be careful with this and keep an eye out for splinters stuck in your fur baby's paws, though, so this isn't always the best idea.
• Carpet. A wooden post wrapped in carpet gives a knobby and textured surface they can scratch at, and the fibers can be satisfying to catch and pull. The carpet will fray after a while, but it's easy enough to get some replacement, and the core post will be solid.
• Sisal. Sisal is that fibrous stuff that looks like coiled-up rope and is often used to make things like baskets and decorative items. Some cats absolutely love it.
• Cardboard. Sometimes, the simplest option is the best. There are a ton of different cardboard options, various stiff boards made of interlocking triangles and dense paper that offers a unique scratching experience each time and is cheap and easy to replace.

So, you'll need to try out combinations of position, material, and type of scratching post. Sometimes, a scratching smorgasbord is the best you can hope for; other times, you need to buy, try, and return things until you find the one your kitty loves.

Put the Post in the Proper Place

Proper post-positioning produces perfectly pleasant purrs. (Say that 10 times fast!)

Putting your scratching post in the right place is just as, if not more, important than the post itself. Cats use scratching to mark their territory, and they're going to want to mark the places they hang out the most.

Often, that means the places where you hang out the most. Putting the post next to your favorite chair – or even next to whatever they like to scratch at – can be a great option.

You can't just move it around from place to place, either. Put it in a place and leave it for at least a few days. You need to give your cat time to realize it's there, investigate it, and give it some experimental scratches.

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If you've also been training them not to scratch, for example, your furniture, then you'll need to incentivize scratching the right thing.

Playing with your cat near the post, offering them treats after scratching it, and giving them pets and praise will all help a lot.

Make Scratching the Wrong Thing Less Pleasant

Above, I mentioned that punishment generally doesn't work. What you can do, though, is make it less pleasant to scratch the things you want to protect, like your furniture.

Not through active monitoring and punishment, though; through a passive defense system.

The Foil Option

If you've tested different materials, maybe you've found one your cat doesn't like. You can wrap chair legs and other furniture in that material to make them avoid it. Some cats don’t like foil, so if they are surface scratchers, you can lay foil down to cover the area.

The Double-sided Tape Alternative

There is also the double-sided tape option, which makes it a lot less pleasant for a cat to scratch at the surface. When using double sided tape, always make sure you test it in a small area to make sure it doesn’t leave any residue behind when it’s removed.

Clear Plastic Panels

You can also find clear plastic panels that are sticky on one side or use pins to hold them in place. These panels can be cut to size and stuck to almost any location.

They work by only giving your cat a slippery surface to claw at, which doesn’t give them the same experience as digging their claws in, so they tend to look for other areas to scratch.

Just like double sided tape, these should be tested to ensure they don’t damage the surface you plan to cover.

It can also be worthwhile to try various sprays. There are a couple of options you can use, both to dissuade scratching the wrong thing and promote scratching the right thing.

• Feliscratch is a product that entices cats to scratch the surface it's on. It's made by the people who make Feliway the pheromone spray that helps soothe stressed cats. While I’ve used Feliway with success, I have not personally tried Feliscratch.
• A variety of scents can dissuade a cat from scratching a surface. Rubbing a bit of citrus peel, some coffee grounds, or something like citronella or eucalyptus on the surface can keep them away, though you want to make sure your scratching post isn't directly next to the object you've slathered in the bad scent.

These are often not terribly effective, though; there are other options, including training, that work better.

Consider Nail Caps

Nail caps are little plastic caps that go over each claw on a cat's paw.

They adhere with glue, and they make it impossible for your fur baby to scratch with those sharp little claws. I wrote a bit about them here when discussing trimming kitty nails.

Nail caps fall off when your kitty sheds the outer sheathing of their claws, and some cats are determined to bite them off (I’m thinking of my kitty nephew here).

Long story short, nail caps are something you have to stay on top of to ensure all nails are capped at all times.

While nail caps can help prevent damage to the furniture and other items your cat won't stop scratching, they don't actually stop or redirect the scratching behavior.

As such, they're a temporary-at-best solution to damage while you work on training them in other ways.

Work on Training

It all seems to bring us back to the beginning of this post. Training is the root of all desirable behaviors in cats, dogs, and other furry friends.

To train a cat, positive reinforcement is best. So, here's what you do.

First, set them up for success. Make sure you’ve offered your kitty acceptable places to scratch before training begins. Giving them options and sprinkling some catnip on the scratchers can help attract your fur baby to use them.

Second, watch them like a hawk. If they're going to scratch something you don't want them to, gently redirect them. It can be as simple as picking them up and moving them to the scratching post. You may also need to relocate when you currently have posts placed.

Third, whenever you see them scratch at the scratching post, be there ready to reward them. You want some kind of reward they enjoy.

It might be a high-value treat, it might be a bit of playtime or some belly rubs, or it might be a dash of catnip. Whatever the reward is, it needs to be in conjunction with or directly after the behavior you want to encourage.

The more delay there is, the less likely your cat is to associate the behavior and the reward.

Keep this up for a while, and eventually, your fur baby will learn what to scratch and what not to scratch.

If you’re having trouble add some of the deterrents we talked about earlier, you may even want to start with some of these in place. I know I make it sound simple, but it's really quite effective if you’re consistent.

How I’m Putting these Techniques to Use

When you bring a new fur baby into your home it’s good practice to keep them in a smaller space, such as a bedroom for an adjustment period.

This is especially important if you have other fur babies in your house as the newbie could be caring something contagious. This transition space is the perfect place to implement some of the recommendations above to help identify your new baby’s scratching preferences.

If you follow us on social media, you may be aware that we adopted two kittens a few months ago (Luca AKA “Luca Puka” and Fabrizio AKA “Fabri” or “Monkey bird.” I know, monkey bird doesn’t exactly sound like a pet name for a cat but it’s a loooong story I will someday get to here in my blog.) We’re in full swing training mode with our boys.

Knocking on wood with one hand as I type this, thus far we’ve had no furniture scratching though we have had some furniture climbing and some carpet scratching.

In their transition space (a bedroom), we started them off with a small, carpeted cat tree, a sisal scratching post, and a cardboard horizontal scratcher.

During their confined time (which lasted a while as they had some health issues) we monitored their usage of each. They seemed to enjoy having a variety of options and your kitty may too, so if you only have one type that your kitty doesn’t consistently use, it’s time to branch out with more variety.

Before they were given free reign, we purchased several more scratchers of various textures and placed them around the house. By giving them lots of options in different places they’ve been doing a great job scratching on the intended objects.

To combat the furniture climbing issue we relocated a tall scratching post, which they are now using to climb to get to the top of the sofa instead of using the sofa itself. I did buy some of the clear plastic panels I mentioned above, so we have a backup if the climbing resumes.

We also do plenty of praise whenever they scratch on any “approved” surface and when they scratch the area rug, I scoop them up and put them on a horizontal scratcher. So far so good, but we have to stay on top of the training while they continue to grow and explore higher places.

Tell me about your kitties, are they vertical or horizontal scratchers? What type of texture do they prefer? Do you have any other tips or tricks that have worked with your fur babies?

Wondering about other cat behaviors? Scratching is one thing, but what about kneading your tummy when you're trying to sleep? Making biscuits is an adorable behavior, and you might be surprised at the reasons behind it.

Angry fur babies are hard to corral, and the last thing you want to do is try to handle them. They're pretty sharp!

And I don't just mean clever, either; they can do a lot of damage if you corner them, and they feel like they have no alternative but to fight to escape.

Ordinarily your kitty might be a loving, loaf of cuteness, and you may only see fear and defensive behavior when it’s time to go to the dreaded V E T, so it’s important to know how to handle your fur baby to lower their stress and make any interaction as safe as possible.

How do you handle an angry kitty? Let's talk about it.

Signs of Anger and Aggression in Cats

Standing with an arched back, fluffed up hair, flattened ears, and erected tail are some of the most common physical signs of a cat being angry.

Cats have a lot of different kinds of body language, and often times it can be hard to tell the difference between cats that are roughhousing, cats that are posturing at one another for territory, and cats that are genuinely scared and angry.

If a cat is angry, in addition to the above-mentioned behaviors, they will normally display behaviors such as:

• Growling and hissing, as an audible sign and verbal warning that something isn't right and that whatever is encroaching on them should back off.

“Growling, hissing or spitting indicates a cat who is annoyed, frightened, angry or aggressive. Leave this cat alone.” - The Humane Society of The United States

• Avoidance. Cats that are experiencing anger and aggression will avoid their favorite toys and foods and are likely to ignore attempts to give them treats. This is because they don't feel comfortable enough to let their guard down to play or eat.
• Hiding. Cats don't like to get into conflicts if they can help it, and if they feel stressed or anxious, they're likely to hide away rather than fight. They will only get aggressive if they're cornered or trapped.

“Cats don't really want to fight; they prefer standoffs, but this can progress to fighting if one of the cats doesn't back down.” - Humane World for Animals

• Flattening their ears back. As mentioned above, this is one of the main signs of an angry cat. Putting their ears back and down helps protect them from other aggressive animals and prepares them to run or fight. This type of aggression is known as fear aggression.

“Cats demonstrating fear aggression may flatten their ears against their heads, hiss, bare their teeth, or crouch low to the ground with their tail tucked under their body, and their fur may stand on end.” – Cornel Feline Health Center

• Biting or swatting. Teeth and claws are the weapons a cat is armed with, and if their other warnings don't work and they're still cornered, those are the weapons they will use to escape.

Angry cats can also twitch their tails, scratch at furniture, and even purr. Purring isn't just a sign of affection, it's a primary method of communication, and aggressive purring can be misinterpreted by people who don't know better.

If you're dealing with an angry cat, it's worth deciding if it's something you need to engage with or if you can just walk away.

An angry stray might be causing a problem for someone trying to rescue her kittens, or a friend's fur baby might be anxious and aggressive when someone unfamiliar tries to catch them, and these are often cases where it's better to just back off and leave them be.

If your fur baby is displaying unexpected aggression, however, it might mean something is wrong, and you may have no choice but to engage.

Cat anger and aggression can be a serious matter. In very severe cases where cats may endanger people around them, some pet parents have been advised that euthanasia might be the answer.

Watch this video by Animal Planet where Jackson Galaxy Saves an Aggressive Cat from Being “Put Down” | My Cat from Hell.

What Makes a Cat Angry or Aggressive?

Cats don't generally have anger issues. If they're angry, it's for a reason. Very occasionally, though, a fur baby might have some inherent aggression they display, such as during play, social conflict, or territorial defense.

The occasional bout of anger isn't a problem. It's only when it prevents you from caring for your fur baby, or when it's an unexpected development, or when it's a pattern that makes them too disruptive or dangerous to care for, that it becomes a problem.

After all, you can’t have your fur baby try to swipe at you every time you try to play or feed them.

Anger in cats comes from a few primary sources.

• Most commonly, it's an escalation from anxiety and fear. Cats are predators, but they prefer to avoid conflict, so they generally only get aggressive when they're cornered while being stressed.
• It's a sign of something wrong in their environment. This could be a new cat encroaching into their territory, something changing in their home.
• It’s a sign of pain, or medical issue they have no way of dealing with on their own. Aggression is only one indicator, but you can learn about other signs of pain or discomfort to better identify it in your cat. It’s important to note that cats often hide their pain, so the only indication might be anger and aggression when you go to pet a certain spot or pick them up.
• Overstimulation. If you’re petting your cat and out of nowhere s/he bites you, that’s likely a sign of overstimulation or petting of an undesirable area like the belly.
• Lack of stimulation. A cat that lacks exercise of the body and mind will find ways to entertain themselves and your feet or hands or clothing may become targets for that hunting instinct to play out. While it might look like aggression to you, it’s actually just play hunting.

How to Help Calm an Aggressive Cat

So, if your fur baby is being abnormally angry, or if you're trying to deal with an aggressive stray or foster, what can you do?

Step 1: Identifying the Cause

The first thing you should do is see if you can figure out why this fur baby is angry. I know it seems easier said than done.

But, like many cat-related issues, the key to uncovering their cause lies in closely watching your cat.

There's always a reason; it just might not be obvious. Out of the many options, here are some of the most common ones.

Keep in mind that just like us humans, every cat is unique so the reason why your cat is angry might not even be in the books. 😊

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Aggression Caused by Illness

The hardest to identify reason why a cat might be aggressive and angry is that they're ill.

Whether they're suffering from a feline flu or they have some kind of internal issue that causes them pain they can't get away from, it will lead to a short temper.

“…a number of medical conditions can cause or contribute to your cat’s aggression, including toxoplasmosis, hyperthyroidism, epilepsy, abscesses, arthritis, dental disease, rabies, trauma, and sensory decline or cognitive dysfunction in older cats. The first step in resolving your cat’s aggression problem is to have a complete veterinary exam to assess his physical health.” - ASPCA.org

They're not so different from us people, after all. Added stress, tension, pain, and irritation all make it easier to reach a breaking point and get angry about it.

Aggression Caused by Another Cat

Since one of the most common causes of aggression and anger in cats is territorial disputes, consider if you’ve made a change by bringing another cat into your home and observe how they interact with one another.

Sometimes it's a matter of a few mild spats before they shake out the pecking order and who gets to claim what room.

Other times, it's an escalating conflict between two cats who each believe they're the dominant one, leading to endless fighting.

Sometimes it's even a cat outside, riling up your fur baby when they can't get at them to stand their ground.

Consider that your kitty might feel unsafe.

Aggression Caused by Lack of Safety

If you recently moved or let’s say had your carpets replaced, your cat may feel less confident in their new smelling surroundings.

Cats like to have a place they can go to hide and relax, and if they aren't familiar with the area – or if they can't find a place they feel safe – they can feel cornered and stressed all the time.

That, in turn, can eventually escalate into increased angry reactions.

Aggression Caused by Excess Energy

Frustrated cats can also get irritable. When they have excess energy and want to play but have nothing to play with, they may expend that energy with less than desirable behavior.

This holds doubly true if you react poorly when they try to get your attention by scratching furniture or otherwise doing something they may know is wrong but still do to get you to look at them.

Formulate Hypotheses and Test Them

So, run through the checklist. Is this cat being trapped or harassed by a child, another cat, a dog, or even you? Do they have nowhere to go and nowhere to hide? Are they getting enough attention and have outlets for their energy? Is there anything outside your window that might be stressing your cat?

If there don't seem to be any external causes for the increased anger, it's more likely to be internal, which means a vet visit is in order.

Step 2: Monitor Your Behavior

If you're going to be engaging with or approaching an angry cat, you absolutely must do it properly, or you risk serious injury to yourself.

Cat scratches and bites are no joke, and that holds doubly true if you're trying to work with a stray cat with unknown health.

If you must approach, do so slowly, and be as small as you can. You're much larger than a cat, and you trying to step up to them can be interpreted as aggression, and they will react accordingly.

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Move slowly, and try not to stare at them. This isn't the time to try the slow blink.

With your own, typically non-aggressive kitty, sometimes, you might be able to use a distraction.

Waving a toy around, or making a noise, can be enough to jolt them out of their aggression, though this is more applicable to cat-versus-cat anger and not a cat that's on edge defending themselves from you.

Avoid Punishment

I’ll close this section out by saying yelling or physically punishing your cat is not going to improve their behavior, if fact it could make the problem worse. Instead, use positive reinforcement for good behavior.

Step 3: Address the Problem

Once you have some idea of what the problem is, you need to take steps to address it.

If your cat is aggressive toward another animal

Aggression Toward a Dog

If you have a cat and a dog, for example, you may need to designate a room where your dog isn't allowed to go, train them to be more respectful of your cat, or keep them separated.

Aggression Toward Another Cat

With two alpha cats, it’s a good idea to have multiple food bowls and litter boxes in different locations. Also, add vertical space if you don’t already have some in your home.

A cat tree or wall shelves are a great option. If you haven’t done so already, make sure your cats are spayed/neutered as it greatly reduces aggression.

“The most obvious and easily understood type of aggression between cats occurs between unneutered males. As males reach adulthood, they often begin to challenge each other for access to mates and territory.” - ASPCA

This may sound like common sense but believe me in the heat of the moment I’ve made some of the silliest and skin-costly mistakes. If your two cats are in the middle of a fight, do not, and I repeat do not, reach your arms in to scoop one up as that aggression can be redirected to you. Instead, put something between the cats to block their line of sight.

This could be a sofa pillow or if they are regularly aggressive, perhaps a cardboard box that you can easily stick between them to separate them. After they are separated, give the aggressor a break in their own safe space to decompress.

Aggression Toward an External Animal

If it's an external animal, like a stray cat or a neighbor's cat, it might be beneficial to close off a window to break their line of sight. There are also motion-activated sprinklers to deter especially insistent outdoor cat visitors.

Case in Point: When we moved a few years back we started having issues with our now angel kitty, Beany. It didn’t take us long to realize that the neighbor’s cat was coming to the front door and looking in through the sidelights. We solved the issue by adding frosted tint to the windows. It still allowed the light in but obstructed any view of furry visitors.

If your cat is aggressive toward a human

In cases of overstimulation, it's very important to learn your cat’s body language and stop petting before the aggression occurs.

It’s also best to avoid using your hands as a toy during play time as your cat doesn’t know it’s not a toy when you’re typing on your computer. Young children likely won’t understand subtle body cues, so it’s best to keep them away from the kitty to avoid any bites or scratches.

“It is particularly important to supervise cats that display this type of aggression (overstimulation) when they are in the presence of young children, who often want to pet cats but miss the visual cues of impending aggression.” - Cornell Feline Health Center

For an under stimulated cat, build in some time to engage your kitty in active playtime to deplete those energy reserves. If you’re gone most of the day, investigate self-play options and automated toys.

If your fur baby is aggressive because of a big change

The key here is to be patient and give your kitty time to adapt.

Moving, rearranging the home, or making another big change can stress out a cat used to habit, and they may be agitated until they get a chance to get used to it.

Providing a space with familiar items and cozy places to hide can help your cat gain confidence as they explore the changes.

Pheromone plug-ins and sprays are a great option to soothe a stressed cat in a new or changing environment.

If you suspect your fur baby may be sick or in pain

A normally docile cat that is suddenly acting aggressive needs to be seen by a vet. Depending on how much fight is in them, this can be pretty difficult. A cat suffering from a toothache or an internal injury can be very resistant to being handled, touched, or even approached, and their distress will only get worse if you try.

Try to approach your cat during a calmer moment. If possible, have a second person ready with the carrier open. Use a towel to protect you and your fur baby as you go to grab them.

Cover their body and head with the towel as you scoop them up to put them in the carrier and ensure they can wiggle out of the towel once inside.

If you're dealing with a feral cat

First, let’s clear up some terminology that is often used interchangeably, feral vs a stray cat.

A stray cat is one that doesn’t have a house to live in, but likely came from one. A stray has been socialized and while they might be skittish, they are often willing to interact with humans.

On the other hand, a feral cat has little to no socialization and will generally see humans as predators. While they share not having a house to go home to in common with strays, they are unlikely to approach humans and instead be fearful and aggressive toward them.

While a stray cat may be interested in moving into your loving home, it's generally ill-advised to force a feral cat indoors.

If dealing with a feral for a health reason, keep them completely covered with a towel during handling and place them in a small space with a nice hiding spot until they can be treated by a vet.

Other Ways to Help Calm an Angry Kitty

If you want some assistance to help with calming down an angry kitty, there are a few things you might consider trying.

I briefly mentioned them above, Cat Pheromones are natural chemicals that cats create and use to communicate with one another. They're odorless to humans, but they convey a bunch of meanings from one cat to another.

You can purchase products that are artificial chemicals mimicking the scent of some pheromones, and they can be useful for a variety of reasons. In fact, one of the most common kinds you can find is used to help relieve anxiety and calm down aggressive cats.

Herbal remedies can help in some cases as well. Valerian root, silver vine, and even catnip are all stimulants for some cats, which you might think doesn’t sound like a good idea. The thing is after the initial effects wear off, they tend to be taken over by calming effects.

It’s important to keep in mind that not all cats are affected by herbal remedies.

Consider CBD as well. CBD oil in tincture form for cats (and dogs) is a natural, non-psychoactive supplement that may help with calming situational anxiety and aggression in some cats.

You'd have to try it to see if it works on your fur baby, but some people swear by it. Read more about how CBD can help calm your cat here.

Behavioral training can help in some cases. This is especially relevant in cats that were adopted from being stray and feral and didn't get socialization as kittens. A trained behavioral specialist may be able to help you and your fur baby learn to avoid aggression.

Medication along with behavior and perhaps environmental adjustments may be an option for some cats. Talk to your vet if you suspect anxiety-induced aggression to see if they think a prescription might be helpful.

And, of course, if your poor fur baby is evidently sick, your veterinarian will guide you on how to address the underlying issue.

“A cat who’s feeling sick may hold her head low and squint her eyes or hold them shut. Her ears might sit low or rotated outward, and her whiskers might be pointing downward. She may hold her head, feet and tail very close to her body, so that they’re tucked into a tight ball. Her third eyelids, which are found on the inside corners of the eyes, may be visible because they aren’t being retracted fully.” - Best Friends Animal Society

Have you ever had to deal with an aggressive or angry cat? It's not easy, is it? Tell me all about it in the comments and what worked best for you. I'd love to hear all of your stories!

The hair on the back of your neck stands up; you walk a little faster. You grab your drink and return to your seat, still feeling those eyes on you, like a predator in the shadows lurking, watching, waiting.

You sit down, and there, you see it. Eyes, in the dark, glowing in the faint light of the television, staring unblinking at you.

"Meow," it says, trotting happily out of the dark and hopping up onto your lap to sniff at your water, poke at your face, and settle in for a contented nap.

It can sometimes be unsettling to see that unblinking, hard, focused stare from your feline companion, but there's really nothing to be worried about. They may be predators, but they sure aren't going to be hunting you. Well, a toe? Maybe.

One of the tricky parts of being a pet parent to an adorable fur baby in cat form is that they can be difficult to decode. Dogs? Dogs are easy. They growl if they're uneasy or angry, they bark if they need to alert someone or warn something off, and they come up wagging their tails with a big smile if they're happy. Cats, though, are a lot more mysterious.

One of the biggest reasons people think they aren't "cat people" is that they don't know how to interpret cat body language, and they unintentionally misinterpret behaviors and make their own actions in a way that offends or irritates the cat.

That's why I've put together this post, specifically about those long stares and slow blinks. What do they all mean?

Spoiler alert, for training purposes, this blog post comes with plenty of demonstration videos !

Let's dig in.

The Elements of the Cat Stare

Before I get started, here’s a full disclosure: First, I can’t speak cat – though sometimes I think they understand what I’m saying.

And second, there is very little scientific research or conclusive evidence on cat behavior, so all we can do is to do our best to try to interpret it. Which together with a strong bond with your cat can go a long way.

My more than 20 years of cat momma experience has taught me one thing about cat behavior: given how smart they are, they can interpret us humans better than we can interpret them.

Which makes me wonder whether they get frustrated when our actions are not in sync with their clues. I can almost hear my cats sighing while rolling their eyes at me!

Having said that, there are only a few aspects of a cat's facial expression that matter, but knowing how to recognize them can tell you a lot about the cat's state of mind, feelings, and appropriate behaviors.

The lids.

The eyelids are an important part of cat communication. If their eyes are wide open, they tend to be more alert, focused, and spirited. Their attention is on something, and their emotions might be running hot.

At the very least, they're awake and alert, but they may be distracted or looking around; otherwise, they may be focused on the object of their desire, whatever that desire may be at the time.

The pupils.

Slit pupils mean focus, usually some kind of emotion like fright, anger, or even pleasure, and a general heightened state.

Broad, open pupils, in contrast, may mean a calm and trusting emotional state unless, of course, it's nighttime, and they need the extra light to see.

However, there are some health conditions that may cause your cat’s pupils to be dilated for longer than normal, in such cases you should bring your cat to the vet.

“Glaucoma may occur naturally in older cats, but it can sometimes happen in young cats, too. Cats who have glaucoma may experience dilated pupils for long periods of time. If your cat has glaucoma, she will need to be treated for this condition to preserve her vision.” - Veterinary Emergency Group

The focus.

Some cat stares are unfocused, haphazard, or distracted. Others are intense and unblinking like they're trying to see deep into your soul and are judging you for what they find. It's this intense stare that many people misinterpret.

Staring alone isn't enough to judge a cat's state. You also need to factor in body language and facial expression and what’s going on in the world around them.

"Denise Johnson, DVM, a certified cat behavior consultant, explains that staring itself is fairly nonspecific. She advises evaluating your cat's posture and the context of the situation to interpret its motivation. "Are they leaning in and up or leaning away and down? Do they look soft and squishy or angular and tense?" A loose, relaxed body is a sign of affection, for instance, while a tense posture is a sign of fear." – Reader's Digest

Different kinds of cat stares will always mean different things, so it can be a good idea to learn them.

Of course, keep in mind that some cats might have slightly different interpretations and boundaries because they can be socialized differently.

Having said that, the key for every cat parent is to get to know their cats, and not just cats in general.

The Slow Blink - AKA The "Tender Twinkle" Look

One of the most iconic kinds of cat stares is the long, slow blink. I like to call this one, the tender twinkle. A cat that watches you keenly but with eyes half-lidded or slit may be performing this expression.

Look for a relaxed and calm posture, a simple sitting or laying pose, and ears calm and unfocused. Your cat watches you, waits until they catch your gaze, and then blinks slowly at you. What could this possibly mean?

Well, as one of the most well-known cat behaviors, it should come as no surprise that it's one of the better ones to see. It’s been long theorized that the long, slow blink, coupled with the relaxed posture, means your cat likes you and is showing you affection.

On the one hand they're calm and relaxed because they're trusting and comfortable in your presence. They aren't stressed, irritated, angry, or otherwise unhappy or anxious. All in all, they're content, and they're showing you by blinking at you.

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On the other hand, let’s keep it real, the biggest question we cat parents might be afraid to get a conclusive answer to is do cats actually feel love or affection? And if so, how do they show it?

As the writer of one of the preferred educational sources for pet parents in America, I wouldn’t be doing readers justice by simply providing my opinion. My goal is to educate with researched backed information.

And, as I discuss in my blog 8 Reasons Why Cats Like to Put Their Paws on Your Face, there is a lot of disagreement even within the scientific community regarding cats ability to feel and express love.

Unlike what you might read on most cutesy blogs out there about the long stares, the truth of the matter is that cat’s long blinks may be more of a body’s response to a cozy, chill, and hazard-free environment than an expression of love.

But I’m with you, I too totally reject the notion that there isn’t even a hint of love in those stares. I can totally feel it, it’s basically the reason why I call this stare the tender twinkle.

From a wildlife perspective, predators need their sight to be aware of the things around them, so a cat doing the slow blink may be a sign of trust.

It's sort of a combination between "we're safe here" and "you've got my back" with a side order of "I love you." Cats are great, aren't they?

In fact, researchers studying cat behaviors at The School of Psychology of the University of Sussex and The University of Portsmouth in the UK, think that doing a slow blink maneuver back might even be a way to help get standoffish or anxious cats to warm up and trust you a little more!

The study titled the role of cat eye narrowing movements in cat–human communication found evidence that cats positively respond to the slow blink from humans.

“Our results not only describe the specific movements involved in cat slow blink sequences but also produce several strands of evidence which collectively suggest that cats respond to a human giving a slow blink stimulus by producing eye narrowing movements of their own… In addition, the study produces evidence that cats perceive human slow blinking in a positive way, as subjects prefer to approach an experimenter after a slow blink interaction has occurred, compared to when the experimenter adopts a neutral facial expression without direct eye contact with the cat.” - The role of cat eye narrowing movements in cat–human communication

So, if you'd like to win over that indifferent and seemingly cold cat you've falling in love with at the adoption place or shelter, you may want to break the ice with a tender twinkle :-).

Almost-Closed Watching - AKA The "FOMO" Look

If your cat is watching you with a vague sense of disinterest, mostly asleep with their eyes only barely open, well, it means almost the same thing as the slow blink.

The difference is, with the slow blink, your cat is awake and more aware of what they're doing. The heavy-lidded or mostly closed eyes, along with a relaxed posture and some purring, generally means your cat is just happy to be there and perhaps keeping an eye on what you’re doing.

They aren't necessarily trying to express anything in particular; they're just zoning out and enjoying their time.

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You can see this a lot with cats that are basking in the sun, curling up for a nap on the lap, or otherwise relaxing.

I like to call this the FOMO look; you know fear of missing out. If you have a clingy cat that wants to go wherever you go, they might be fighting their desire to sleep to make sure they can monitor that you’re still there.

Have you ever tried to sneak away when your kitty was falling asleep, and they pop up to follow you? This is what I mean.

Focused Staring with Open Pupils - AKA The "Predator Pupils" Look

Another kind of long, focused stare happens when your cat really wants to attack, but like, in a good way.

This is the wide-eyed, butt-wiggling, ready-to-pounce staring you get when your cat is about to pounce on the dot from the laser pointer, their favorite cat toy that you're twitching around, or that toe under the covers you keep idly wiggling.

Cats are hunters, after all, and they use their keen vision to track motion and sneak up to pounce. That focused staring is getting them all of that visual information and telling them when the best opportunities to move will be. Then, when the moment is right… sproing!

Check out The Predator Pupils Look in action!

Staring and Tapping or Meowing - AKA The "Purr-sistent" Look

How often is it that you look down at your feet, across the room to a table, or just next to you while you're eating, only to see your fur baby staring at you?

They're probably awake and alert, their tail may be lashing back and forth, or s/he might just be curled up at your feet. They might be walking in circles or wandering around, or they might be weaving in and out of your legs.

One thing is constant, though: they're staring. Long, unblinking stares. They might even be tapping at your face or hands or even meowing at you.

In this case, two things may be going on here.

A likely explanation for this behavior is that your cat wants something. Maybe it's attention and affection. Maybe it's a bite of whatever you're eating.

Maybe it's for you to follow them so you can let them into their favorite spot, or rescue a favorite toy, or for you to give them some scritches.

In fact, I have a good example for you. This cat, Milo, will sit next to his bed and stare at his parents until they notice. He'll keep staring until they do what he wants, which is to bring his bed to the dryer to warm it up for a bit, then position it so he can nap in a nice, cozy place. Adorable, right?

What's going on here? The stare clearly means something, and that something is that your fur baby wants something. It's more than that, though, because cats don't just inherently know what the dryer is and how it works.

Check out the Purr-sistent Stare in Action!

There's an element of training here.

"You may be unintentionally training your cat to stare at you. "Many pet parents, when being stared down by their cats, may respond by feeding, talking to, or petting them," Dr. Gerken says. "In doing so, cats learn that staring leads to something fabulous." – Reader's Digest

At some point, Milo's parents did the dryer thing a time or two, and Milo learned. Milo also learned that sitting next to the bed and staring would associate that he wanted something.

It's kind of mutual training; Milo wants what they trained him to want, and he's trained them to recognize that stare as the request.

Case in point: During her late years, our angel cat Beany used to stare at daddy at the same time every night, like clockwork. She would position herself at eye level and at about 18 inches away from daddy’s face. She then stared very intently and focused for 3 to 5 minutes. And, when the stare was not compelling enough, she would go on to meow as loudly as her little lungs allowed. Although cute, her voice had gotten very deep and raspy with age, so it came out more like an angry demand. Her stare was the clue that it was bedtime for everybody, which also meant it was dinner time for her and sister Sosa. So, we stopped our favorite tv shows short, turned off the tv and got around getting ready for bed and, of course dinner. Don’t worry, we didn’t let her get the last laugh, after training us, we trained her to confirm that she was ready for bed.

Check out our Beany, the raspy-voiced cutie:

So, before you respond to a long stare accompanied by cute kitty chirps for the first time, consider that you might be training your cat to repeat these actions in the future.

The Long, Focused Stare - AKA The "Worry Vision" Look

On the far end of the spectrum is the long, focused stare. I call this one the worry vision. It's similar to the other long, focused stares, but in this case, the body language is different.

Your cat, instead of being relaxed, is alert and ready to bolt if they need to. They may be crouched down with their ears pointed and moving around alerted to the sounds around them, and they're usually quite still.

This is often the sign of a fearful, anxious, or wary cat. They're staring at you to watch for any sign of a threatening move.

If you move towards them, make a loud noise, or something startles them, they'll probably run and hide somewhere they know is safe.

They're keeping all of their senses tuned to danger, and they're trying to stay as safe as they can.

As long as no danger is truly present, they'll eventually warm up to you and their situation, but it can take a little time. Stress gets to us all, right?

The Hard Stare - AKA The "Steel Stare-down" Look

If your cat is giving you a long, hard stare, but they're arched and tense, angular and ready to run or pounce, chances are they're pretty stressed, angry, and feel cornered.

I like to call this stare the steel stare-down. Make sure to watch the demonstration video below so you can understand why.

Many pet parents never see this outside of the rare times a sick cat needs a pill they really don't want to take or the cat carrier comes out and they know it’s time for the V E T.

It’s also not uncommon if they have a furry sibling that tends to be on the aggressive side. If you have a pup that sees your kitty more as a toy than a friend, your cat may stare intently when they share the same space to ward off any undesirable interactions.

The hard stare is usually accompanied by slitted eyes and narrow pupils, and a whole lot of tense and angry body language.

They might fluff up their coat like when they are trying to ward off a larger predator, they might even perch sideways to look bigger, and they'll probably hiss and growl at you. They're very clearly not in a good mood.

Check out what I mean in this video:

If you see your cat is giving you a hard stare and appears to be tense in their body, don’t stare back at them as it can increase their stress level. In these situations, the goal is to de-escalate so your kitty can go back to a less heightened state.

You know your cat best, but in general a cat in this state is in flight or fight mode, so avoid going to scoop your fur baby up until they have had a chance to decompress. Check out my blog post on how to calm an angry kitty here.

So, there you have it; a rundown of all of the most common cat stares and what they mean.

Did you learn something to help you better connect with your fur baby today? Do you have any funny stories about your cat staring at you? Please share with us in the comments below!

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When they aren't dozing in a sunbeam or whining for your attention, they're probably off somewhere hunting, or trying to hunt, whatever toy, bird, or rodent that catches their eye. With such keen eyesight, that's a lot of critters!

And, while it's fun to watch them stalk and stare, it's a lot less fun if your kitty is allowed outside and they come up to the door with a bloody mouse, mole, bird, or other creature clamped in their jaws.

While this might be a somewhat funny story to share with friends and family, one thing you may not know is that, believe it or not, domesticated cats are one of the biggest threats to birds worldwide.

Countries have differing opinions on whether or not a kitty should be allowed outside. Here in the U.S., it’s generally frowned upon, but I still see cats in my neighborhood that have a place to go home to.

So, while I would recommend keeping your fur baby indoors for their safety, if you do have an indoor/outdoor kitty, this post is for you.

One possible solution to saving the wildlife around your home is a bell, but there’s some debate over whether or not putting a bell on the collar of your feline friend is a good idea.

As usual, I’ve thrown in a great educational video. This time by The American Bird Conservancy and their work with cat-mauled birds. This is a must-watch!

Let’s run down the arguments on both sides and see if we can get to the bottom of things.

Saved By the Bell: The Argument For Collar Bells

There are generally two main reasons why it may be a good idea to attach a bell to your fur baby's collar.

The first is connected to the scenario I already mentioned up above. Cat predation of wildlife.

Why Do Cats Like to Hunt Animals?

To put it simply, it's in their genes, it's part of their instincts, they're hard-wired to stalk and pounce, and often, kill.

Whether they're doing it for fun, for sustenance, or because they want to bring a squirmy little creature to you to teach you how to hunt, it's a fact of life for felines.

Now, one could argue that if cat parents were aware of the dangers that domestic cats are exposed to while hunting outside, there wouldn’t be any need for bells as cats would simply be kept indoors.

Is it Safe for My Cat to Hunt?

No. As much as your cat is hard-wired to hunt, hunting is also a source of many risks.

• Rodents and other prey animals can carry diseases, mites, bacteria and parasites, which can not only infect your fur baby but also be transmitted to you.

“Yersnia pestis, the bacteria that causes plague, is commonly carried by small rodents such as ground squirrels, rats, mice and even rabbits…Keep in mind that outdoor cats are most at risk for being exposed to Yersnia, due to rodent hunting (another great reason to keep your cat indoors).” - Pet Health Network

• You may end up with an indoor pest infestation. If your fur baby doesn't kill the creature, they can let it loose in your home, leading to all sorts of problems if you don't catch it yourself.

• Prey animals aren't defenseless, and some of them can fight back; you don't want your fur baby to get a nasty cut or bite! A short encounter with an animal that carries rabies could get your cat infected.

“…Rabies happens primarily in skunks, raccoons, foxes, coyotes, and bats. In some areas, these wild animals infect domestic cats, dogs, and livestock. In the U.S., cats are more likely than dogs to be rabid.” - Johns Hopkins Medicine

• Your cat might become prey! Many small domestic animals are increasingly at risk from predation.

“Many people assume that coyotes don't live in suburban or urban neighborhoods because they don't see them. But that assumption can be dangerous for your animal companions. Coyotes typically hunt small mammals such as mice, voles and rabbits. If given the opportunity, they will also make a meal of a cat, tame or feral.” - The Humane Society of The United States

Are Cats a Threat to Birds?

House cats kill over 2.4 billion birds in the United States alone each year and have very likely contributed to the extinction of over 60 different species.

“Head of the Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center, Marra and other scientists, along with conservation organizations such as the American Bird Conservancy, warn that entire populations of bird and other wildlife species are declining or even being pushed toward extinction by domestic cats.” The National Wildlife Federation

Of course, it's not your fur baby's fault they're built that way. They're just doing what nature intended for them to do.

What does a bell have to do with this?

Well, a bell attached to your fur baby's collar is a source of a subtle noise. It might not be loud and jangly – and good, it shouldn't be – but it's enough that it tinkles when your cat runs to pounce.

Just like your cat is hard-wired to hunt, prey animals are hard-wired to spook and run at the first sign of anything unusual, and the sound of a bell rapidly getting closer is very much one of those signals.

They're effective, too. Some studies have shown that bells reduce the successful hunts a cat embarks upon by about half, and there's no evidence to suggest that cats adapt to the sound and learn to hunt more slowly or muffle the bell before pouncing. It's a simple, easy way to save local wildlife.

Plus, the bell doesn't prevent your cat from the act of hunting; it just reduces their ability to successfully kill another small animal. They may be momentarily frustrated, but by the time they're home and back in your cozy lap, they'll have forgotten all about it.

Check Out This Educational Video by The American Bird Conservancy Work with Birds That Have Been Mauled By Cats

I mentioned two reasons, though, so what's the second?

Well, it's so you can hunt them!

More specifically, it's just an auditory cue that helps you know where your fur baby is wandering.

If they rush out between your legs when you're carrying in the groceries, or if they sneak away when you aren't looking on a supervised outing to the yard, the bell can help you find them and alert you to their presence (or absence).

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It can also help one cat locate another cat. In particular, if you have a multiple-cat household and one of the cats is very, shall we say, dominant, they might bully other cats and get into spats.

By sticking a bell on their collar, the warning goes out not just to prey animals, but to fellow felines. It can avoid conflicts and reduce surprise-aggression reactions.

Why Some People Oppose Bells for Cats And The Argument Against Them

Now let's look at things from the flip side. Some people object to putting bells on a cat's collar, and some vehemently reject the very idea.

It's not just about imposing on the dignity of their regal felines; they also have solid concerns, arguments, and even myths.

Will a Bell in My Cat’s Collar Hurt My Cat’s Ears?

No, a bell on your cat’s collar will not injure their ears. While it's true that it would probably get annoying for us, the truth is, collar bells are generally quiet enough that cats aren't bothered by it.

Some cat parents argue that, with cat's sensitive hearing, having a bell ringing next to them all the time could hurt them.

According to the Office for Science and Society at McGill University, most cats won't even care.

“…A collar bell will produce sound at about 50-60 dB, but studies have shown cats to be unaffected by sounds under 80 dB. While some cats with anxiety may not react well to the bell’s sound, it’s likely that the majority of cats simply won’t care.”

Maybe the occasional anxious fur baby might get irritated by it – and some of the more irascible feral strays will rip their collars off altogether – but most cats don't seem to care one way or the other.

Could Bells Put My Cat in Danger from Other Predators?

Another common argument is that the sound of the bell doesn't just alert prey: it alerts predators too.

This is a tough one, and given the absence of supporting studies in this field, there are opposing perspectives on this topic.

The first one is that while your cat's presence is being announced to the world, it's not just birds and mice that are being alerted, but foxes, coyotes, hawks, and other predators that would like a feline snack.

This argument can make sense for many pet parents. However, here are a few counter arguments that may also make sense.

First, some of those predators operate by sight, not by sound. A hawk isn't listening for the tinkling of a bell; it's watching for movement from a hundred feet up.

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Second, the sound of the bell is still minor. The usual noise of the outdoors can drown it out, and it's only even effective against birds and other prey animals some of the time. The chances of it attracting a coyote or something are likely pretty slim.

Third, of course, if you live in an area where predators abound and your cat may be in danger being outside, you shouldn't let them outside unsupervised anyway!

This argument only supports the one about not allowing your cat outdoors discussed in the first part of this post. Doing so, with or without a bell, is putting your fur baby at risk every time. Instead, you should keep them on a harness, in an enclosure, or even just inside in a sunroom.

Do Bells on Cat Collars Save Birds?

Yes, they do. Some studies show that cats wearing a collar with a bell capture fewer birds than cats without. So, bells do reduce hunting success.

Some cat parents are skeptical about the effectiveness of the bells. And rightfully so, after all their fur babies still catch birds and mice even with a bell. So, what’s the point?

Well, as pointed out above, the bell doesn’t stop your cat from killing wildlife, it simply reduces the success rate. A cat catching two birds in a month is better than a cat catching five birds per week, right? Wildlife protection isn't an all-or-nothing prospect.

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To make matters worse some cat parent’s skepticism is exacerbated by the fact that while there are studies supporting the effectiveness of cat collars, there are counter arguments as well.

“One of the oldest tactics to keep wildlife safe from cats is to put a bell on outdoor cats’ collars. Unfortunately, this doesn’t really work. The sound of a bell tinkling isn’t something that wildlife associates with predators or other danger.” National Wildlife Federation

Now, who would argue with the National Wildlife Federation? Any pet parent would agree they know best. Am I right?

Well, the National Wildlife Federation also warns that the only safe way to stop domesticated cat predation of wildlife is by keeping domesticated cats indoors.

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My Cat Might Get Frustrated

I've also encountered some people who are concerned about the frustration of a hunt gone bad.

If your cat wants to hunt but they never manage to catch their prey, it can leave them frustrated and irritable. While not a big deal, this is still a consideration though.

This one is actually true, to an extent, and it's why laser pointers aren't always a good toy for cats. The trick is to play with them using a toy they can actually catch.

That way, they get to be successful, and you can reward them with a treat when you're done.

My Cat is a Good Boy/Girl

Some people also believe the best of their fur babies and assume that just because they've never had their cat bring them a bite, it means the cat doesn't hunt.

Unfortunately, that's simply not true; it just means the cat is more likely to have devoured their prey somewhere secluded, possibly because of food anxiety or bullying at home if you have multiple cats.

It's not that they're ashamed or that they just don't want to bring it home; it's that they don't want to share or risk having it taken from them.

My Cat Will Figure Out How the Bell Works, so There's no Point

Finally, some people think that cats can learn to adapt to the bell and will walk more softly and pounce more slowly to avoid alerting their prey.

Realistically, though, this doesn't seem to happen when cats are observed hunting with a bell.

They get so caught up in what they're doing that they forget they even have a bell, and when their fuzzy little instincts tell them to pounce, they pounce, tinkling merrily all the way.

Rejecting the Bell: Alternatives to Bell Collars

If you decide that, despite it all, you really don't want your fur baby to suffer the indignity of the bell, or if your cat doesn't tolerate it or rips it off, there are some alternatives you can try.

The first is, of course, just to keep your fur baby indoors all the time. This is generally the recommended thing to do anyway, just because as discussed above, there are so many hazards outside the home. In fact, indoor-only cats live decidedly longer, healthier lives than indoor-outdoor or outdoor-only cats.

Another option, if you want to let your cat roam and still want to protect the wildlife, is something like a Birds Be Safe collar attachment. This is a bright, colorful frill that attaches to a breakaway collar and alerts birds when they see it coming. It's like a bell, but visual, for birds that are already very aware of the colors around them. Again, there are arguments for and against this option.

Incidentally, if your cat is a "working cat" and actively protects your home from mice and other rodents, the colored frill is a great idea. It's most effective against birds, but mice don't notice it.

Other forms of supervised outdoor activity can help prevent your cat from killing birds and other wildlife as well. Birds might not notice a cat stalking them, but they'll notice if you're right behind the cat! Keeping your cat on a harness when they're outdoors can be very helpful.

You can also use an enclosure, something like a thin, nearly transparent cat tent that gives them fresh air and the opportunity to play outside but keeps them closed off from the chance to hunt.

Another option, which you can do in conjunction with the others, is lifestyle changes that make your cat less likely to hunt prey outdoors.

For one thing, a high-protein, low-grain diet helps give your cat all of the benefits of hunting and keeps them feeling sated (and sleepier). They'll be less inclined to hunt when their biological signals aren't telling them that they need to eat more meat.

Alternatively, you can also play with them and reward them after a successful mock hunt. This gives them the mental stimulation and fulfillment of a hunt without actually resulting in a dead animal.

Both of these combined can reduce a cat's need to hunt, which in conjunction with a belled collar, can be very effective.

“Households where a high meat protein, grain-free food was provided, and households where 5–10 min of daily object play was introduced, recorded decreases of 36% and 25%, respectively, in numbers of animals captured and brought home by cats, relative to controls and the pre-treatment period.” - The Journal of Current Biology.

Whether you're in it for the protection of your cat, for the salvation of the local wildlife, or just because you want the noise of the bell around, you have a lot of options.

Either way, though, if your fur baby goes outdoors, they should always have a collar on with identification tags. Even indoor-only cats can escape, so if you don’t use a collar, make sure s/he is microchipped so they can be brought home if they're found.

Where do you stand on the issue? Does your cat wear a collar? Does it have a bell? Do you have any other pet questions or debates you'd like me to dig into? If so, be sure to let me know, and I'll pencil it in for one of my next blog posts!

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Whether we're trying to sleep, and they get the zoomies, they lay there looking cute for a belly rub that's clearly a trap, or putting their paws on our faces whenever they get the chance.

Speaking of, what's the deal with that? Why do cats like putting their paws on our faces as much as they do? Is there some meaning behind it, or is it just somewhere they can step when they feel like they want to put that foot somewhere?

Quite frankly, in the field of cat behavior, there is very little scientific research, and thus nobody knows for sure why cats do many of the things they do. Full disclosure, I’m not Dr. Dolittle, nor am I Antonio Madrigal (Encanto anyone?), so sadly I can’t speak to animals.

One thing I’m 100% sure of though, only cats know for sure why they do what they do. So, in my opinion, anybody who tries to explain cat behavior should always caveat their ideas with “in my experience” or “in my opinion.”

With that said, setting the science aside, there are some hypothesis, or myths if you will, that may explain this behavior.

In today’s post I’ll discuss 8 of the most common hypotheses about why cats put their paws on your face. Spoiler alert, #3 may disappoint you a little bit. Keep in mind that just like with every other hypothesis out there, until proven true by scientific research, they will all remain opinions, anecdotes or simply myths.

Let’s look into the most common reasons why cats like to put their paws on your face... in my opinion.

1: The Hey, Listen! Hypothesis - My Cat is Craving my Attention

One of the fastest ways to get someone's attention is to touch them.

When a cat wants something, they might meow about it. If that doesn't work, they might come closer to you, where you can see them, and then meow about it. If that still doesn't work, they might climb up on you to grab your attention with a bit more, shall we say, insistence.

And, of course, tapping your face with their paw is usually a good way to get your undivided attention, even if it's an initially negative reaction. Sometimes your cat will even bite or lick you to get your attention.

Of course, all this tells you is that they want your attention for some reason.

Why they want your attention is a whole other story. Are they hungry and want you to feed them? Do they want cuddles or scritches? Do they want to play? That's up to you to figure out.

2: The You're Mine Hypothesis - I Belong to my Cat

When we think of animals and scent marks, we usually think of dogs and their powerful noses. They aren't the only members of the animal kingdom to rely on their noses, though. Cats do scent marking too, and they do it in a few different ways.

One way is spraying, and of course, that's unwanted. It's the most powerful scent a cat has at their disposal, and it's used to mark territory more than possessions.

Thankfully, a combination of spaying/neutering and training can help prevent a cat from spraying to mark their territory.

Another way is that face rub they do. When your cat walks up to you and puts their face right up in yours, and rubs their cheeks against you, that's your kitty marking you with a bit of their scent.

They do this frequently because, of course, you're frequently washing your face washes that scent away.

Paw taps are another way to mark you.

Cats have scent glands on their paws, and those glands excrete small amounts of oil and pheromones to leave a tiny trail anywhere they walk.

It also infuses the surfaces they scratch at with their claws – which is why scratching is a multi-function habit – and a little touch of those paws on your face mark you as their human.

This is also why one cat might not tap you all that much, but if you have more than one, they both seem to do it a lot.

In a way, they're competing with each other to keep you marked as theirs (perhaps one of the greatest self-worth boosters for any cat parent)! You, of course, love them both equally but a little bit of competition won’t hurt them.

3: The I Love You Hypothesis - Does my Cat Love Me?

Your cat tapping your face with their paw may be an expression of love and affection.

This is another common hypothesis about why your precious little fur baby may be tapping your face with their paw. It’s one every cat parent, including myself, hopes will be confirmed as a fact one day, though I believe it simply from experience.

They snuggle up to you, they tap you, or put a paw gently against a cheek and leave it there. It's comforting for them to feel you breathing, feel your warmth, and share in your space.

The key here is that the touch is soft, gentle, and keeps the claws firmly sheathed. If they're prickling you with their claws, they may want something else, or their body language may have another meaning.

You can look for other signs that your cat is completely, utterly head-over-tail in love with you by looking at the rest of their body language.

Is their tail relaxed and curled around them or draped over your arm? Are they giving you a nice, long, slow blink, or even just keeping their eyes closed? Are they purring?

They're getting comfort out of your presence, and they're putting their presence right up front and center for you to get the same comfort.

As cute as all the above sounds, and regardless of how much I resist to believe this behavior might not be a true manifestation of love, my job here is to be as objective as possible rather than trying to write only about what your heart might want to read like most “cutesy” blogs out there do.

This is the reason why we are the preferred pet parent source for many pet parents.

The truth is, the biggest question we cat parents might be afraid to get a conclusive answer to is do cats actually feel love? And if so, how do they show it?

There is a lot of disagreement even within the scientific community. Check out what some experts say:

It’s complicated.

"Although I wish we could, we cannot get into the brains of cats and know if they feel 'love,'" Dr. Stacy Choczynski Johnson, DVM…"It's a complicated emotion and this feeling of love is up for debate." - Salon.com

I Believe Cats Show Affection to Their Humans

"There's a misconception about cats not showing love to their owners, whereas dogs are very affectionate and demonstrate this love in various ways. But cats do actually show love and affection to their humans.” - Jessica Pierce Ph.D. | Psychology Today

First Things First: How Do you Define and Measure Love?

I guess from a scientific standpoint, the #1 hurdle in deciphering whether cats feel love towards their human companions lies in defining and measuring love itself.

For starters, “love” is a tough concept to explain and measure, especially when we are trying to understand it in a different species.

“Love is a very complex concept that isn't easy to quantify —even in humans,” - Kristyn Vitale | Cat Researcher at Unity College

The comforting part is that all the above are either opinions or non-conclusive studies so, let’s keep believing and hoping in our hearts that one day science can prove that our fur babies do love us.

For those of us who truly believe our cats do love us, and remind us of their love every day, here is a sweet video by Jackson Galaxy:

Does my Cat Love Me? | 3:07 Video

4: The Wake up! Hypothesis - Cats Can be Intentional and Have Memory

Another likely reason why your fur baby may put their paw on your face is that they want you to wake up.

It's time for breakfast, and here you are, with the sheer audacity to be sleeping three minutes past when my stomach is growling? How dare you! I'm going to tap your face until you wake up and feed me! Bap bap bap.

Obviously, this kind of face tapping would only happen when you're in bed or dozing on the couch, or otherwise asleep when they want you for something.

If you're in a deep sleep, the zoomies and the clatters of upended glasses, and the loud, persistent meowing may not stir you. So, they turn to something a little more drastic that they know you'll react to.

Different cats have different patterns here, and some of them are more likely to just stand on your chest and meow in your face, pounce on your toes, or otherwise start disturbing you in some way to gain your attention. If your cat is particularly needy, this might happen to you more often.

Or, well, you know how it goes. I wasn't trying to wake you up, I was just playing, but now that you're up, you can get me some food… win win.

Of all hypotheses, in my opinion, this one is perhaps the closest to a theory. The truth is, cats can be both very intentional and have memory. This hypothesis may hold true if you have unintentionally trained your cat to associate a paw touch with a response. Let me explain.

If your cat ever happened to touch your face while you were asleep, and you interpreted that behavior as your cat telling you they were hungry, so you fed them, they might remember the end result of touching your face with their paw while you are asleep.

It’s what I like to call the cat-human training loop. Did I just coin another term in cat parenting psychology? It works something like this:

Cat takes action #1 – human interprets action and reacts – cat interprets human reaction and learns – cat takes action #1 again and realizes s/he gets the same human reaction – human has successfully been trained – repeat at will 😊

So, the next time they‘re hungry while you‘re asleep, they now know all they have to do is touch your face.

Case in Point About Cat’s Memory and Intention: My gentle giant angel Moo liked to bap empty box flaps like a boxer repeatedly hitting a punching bag. I don’t remember at what point I decided to distract him with food when he started boxing (the noise used to drive me nuts), but from that moment on he learned that every time he was hungry all he needed to do was to start boxing to get a snack. I guess he learned I was good at learning :-)

5: The Come Play With Me! Hypothesis - Cats Need Enrichment

Cats are predators by nature, and part of that nature means they need to satisfy that prey drive by doing a little hunting. Sometimes it means leaping for the lights and trying to catch a stray moth.

Other times, the only outlet they have is that dangly little feather you drag around and that only moves when you're there to move it. So, when they're feeling a little frisky, and they want to play, they'll get your attention.

Unlike other forms of attention-gathering face taps, this one has a bit of a different set of body language behind it.

They might lightly swat at you the way they would swat at a flicking tail or a toy. They might bap you a few times or start playing with a stray tuft of hair or a bit of beard.

In some cases, they might even give you a few playful nibbles, though never enough to actually hurt you.

Cat’s need daily exercise and mental enrichment, so if you’re gone at work all day, play a 20-to-30-minute play session when you get home.

6: The Back Off, Bud Hypothesis - Some Cats Don't Want to be Held

While almost every reason why your cat might be touching your face with their paws may be interpreted as a sign of attachment to you or, some reason they want to get your attention, this one is a little less happy.

If you're getting up in their space, if you keep picking them up and nuzzling them when they don't enjoy it, or when you're just generally being irritating to them, rest assured, they'll get tired of it.

At first, they'll squirm and protest or try to leave, but if you keep insisting, they'll put a paw firmly in your face and push you away.

Of course, this is just about your last warning. Once you reach this point, if you keep doing what you're doing, your fur baby might just use those claws they've kept hidden away.

That's when you remember that little mittens isn't just a cuddly ball of fur, they're a predator with knives on their toes, and those knives can be pretty dang sharp when they want to be.

Thankfully, it's generally pretty clear when you're pushing the boundaries that much, and even if you're not entirely aware of the line being crossed, it's a mistake you're only going to make once.

The biggest issues will be the wounds to your face and to your pride and the damage to your bond that you might need to take some time to repair.

Case in Point: Years ago, my little Sosa could not be picked up without a snarl and claws ready to free her from your grips. I had been working for some time picking her up and immediately putting her down to help her understand nothing bad would happen.

As she became less afraid, I would hold her for a second longer and longer. Well, this one day she seemed oddly ok with being held, so I held her a little longer… I’m talking like 10 seconds here… well that was a mistake! She squirmed her little body so fast, I didn’t want to drop her, so I held on and slowly bent over to put her down.

I wasn’t fast enough. Her claw cut right through my lip. It was bloody and painful, and completely my fault. So, listen to your kitty folks, body language and all.

7: The I Can Do That Too! Hypothesis

This hypothesis is that the reason your cat touches your face is because you touch your own face, or because you touch the face of your loved ones, or because you touch their little furry face.

Science and vets used to think that the only creatures that did communal mimicry were primates and dogs. Dogs are more than happy to mimic the actions and behaviors of their parents, just like babies.

Cats, though, many just assumed were aloof, regal, independent critters that don't need that kind of bond.

Of course, you and I know that nothing could be further from the truth.

Some cats don't try any form of mimicry, but others will mimic certain small actions you might take – subtly enough that you might not even notice it. While some others are a lot more pronounced about it.

One of the most famous examples is Ebisu, a Japanese cat that loved treats so much she snuck into dog training classes and happened to pick up some training on the way.

Not only did she learn to mimic her human, but she also upended a whole field of animal cognition science in doing so.

Check out Ebisu in this 3 min video: Do as I do in a Cat

After all cats like cheek scratches, so it stands to reason that you would like them too, and who better to provide them than your fuzzy little friend?

8: The Cute Oooh, Big Stretchy! Hypothesis

Have you ever considered that your cat might not be perfect?

I know it's a terrible thought to even suggest that about your fur baby, but it's true! Cats are clever, and they're smart, but they aren't infallible or perfect.

Sometimes, they're just stretching or making biscuits, and they happen to misjudge the space they're in and just shove a paw directly in your face.

Sure, it might be a little unpleasant for you to have a squirmy little furball shove a paw in your nose or poke you in the eye, but hey, they got a real nice stretch out of it and probably curled back up to keep dozing on your chest or in your arms. No harm, no foul.

So, yeah. Sometimes, your fur baby sticks their paws in weird places just because it's an accident in how they move. They weren't really intending to poke you in the face, but they aren't going to stop either because they're comfy and they like you, and you're going to keep petting them anyway, right?

Is This Bad Behavior?

It's one thing to know why your furball keeps touching your face. It's quite another to decide if you want to train it out of them. You certainly can train them if you know what you're doing and have the right treats on hand. The question is, should you?

Generally, it's up to you. Unless they're especially careless or your face is especially sensitive, you're probably fine letting them do what they want to do.

Also, since so many of the reasons they touch you are rooted in affection and bonding, you don't want to remove those avenues. At most, you want to redirect them. Train them to touch your arm rather than your face, for example.

The biggest risk out of anything is just disease. Cats are fastidious, but they're also animals; they clean themselves by licking themselves, and it's not like their tongue is sterile. Usually, you'll be fine, but if your fur baby is prone to sticking a paw in your mouth, nose, or eyes, or if they accidentally scratch you, it’s not ideal.

Otherwise, just enjoy the love they're sharing with you.

Does your furry lil friend just love to paw at your face? If so, have they given you any clues as to why they do it? I'd love to hear all of your hilarious stories about your fur baby, so be sure to leave those down below!

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Are they just a bit too warm, or is there something more concerning going on?

There are a bunch of different reasons why your feline friend might have started panting. From the most innocuous reasons (make sure not to miss the educational video in the section about other reasons your cat might pant) to some serious and nefarious ones.

Because panting is not a common behavior in cats, every cat parent should equip themselves with the key knowledge necessary to take action when needed, in order to assist their furry children.

Without further ado, let’s dig in.

1: Your Cat is Panting Because of Excessive Warmth

Just like with dogs, cats will pant when they get too hot.

This typically occurs with dogs when they are outside playing or after a strenuous walk/run.

“Rapidly expelling hot air and drawing in cooler air is known as panting. When the cool air comes in contact with the moist lining of the lungs and throat, it helps the animal reduce its body temperature. You've definitely seen dogs do it—canines sweat through their paws but also pant to cool off more efficiently.”- Smithsonian Magazine

In the US though, most cats are kept indoors so they are able to stay in a comfortable temperature regulated home.

Of course, not everyone has air conditioning, and not all cats live inside, so you’re more likely to find an outdoor cat panting because they are overheated.

Even still, cats are incredible smart animals. On a hot summer day, you're not likely to see them cuddled up on a lap; instead, they'll have found a cool, shady spot to doze and conserve their energy.

Case in Point: I can tell when our little Sosa is too hot. She’s almost always on my lap, but on one particularly cold winter day, I pulled out her little cat-safe heating pad and had it on my lap. She napped for a long time, but eventually hopped down and laid on the hardwood floor. She never does that, so it was clear she needed to cool down a bit.

If they aren't able to find a place to cool off, or if they are still too warm even when they're in the coolest location they can find, then they'll need to cool themselves off any way they can.

They have a few options. The first one is sweating. However, sweating doesn’t do much to cool down cats as they only sweat through their toe beans. No pun intended 😊

The second option is grooming, which is actually their main cooling mechanism. Grooming works by keeping them cool as their saliva evaporates. I know, it doesn’t sound very glamorous. This is kind of similar to how humans’ sweat evaporates to help cool us down.

Panting follows this same evaporation to cool methodology. Panting involves extending the tongue combined with rapid breathing allowing that moisture to evaporate subsequently cooling your fur baby down.

The third option is panting. Panting follows this same evaporation to cool methodology. Panting involves extending the tongue combined with rapid breathing allowing that moisture to evaporate subsequently cooling your fur baby down.

If you notice your fur baby panting when it's hot out, you might want to bring them to someplace cooler. You can also drop a couple of ice cubes in their water bowl.

Pro tip: Unless otherwise advised by your veterinarian, never shave your cat in the summer. Their coat helps regulate their body temperature by the air held between their coat and their skin. Remove that barrier and they lose an important cooling (and heating in the winter) mechanism.

"Fur acts as a thermal regulator to slow down the process of heat absorption." - James H. Jones, University of California at Davis.

As I mentioned in my example above, cats are going to seek areas to cool down, a tile floor, a lower level of a house. They’ll also groom a lot to further their cooling, so it’s unusual to find a cat panting because they are overheated.

The most likely scenario (aside from an outdoor kitty in the heat) would be if you have a really active kitty that had a major play session. They may rest after the exertion and pant to cool down.

Excessive heat and lack of access to water can lead to dangerous consequences. While more common in dogs than in cats, on especially hot days, keep an eye out for the signs of heatstroke, including:

• Restlessness.
• Vomiting.
• Lethargy.
• Muscle shaking or tremors.
• Drooling.
• Excessive grooming.
• Loss of balance or coordination.
• Seizures or unconsciousness.

If your cat is showing signs of any of these, you should bring them to the vet ASAP.

Heat stroke is a dangerous and potentially deadly condition and may require more than just a cool space and water to cure.

“Heat stroke is a form of hyperthermia, which often presents as an emergency, due to prolonged exposure to hot, humid temperatures with poor ventilation. It can be fatal.” – Lort Smith Animal Hospital

Unfortunately, since cats don't like to suffer visibly or show weakness, you might not be in a position to witness these issues until they're already a problem.

2: Your Cat is Panting Because of Pain

Bodies have a definite physiological reaction to pain, and it's not just that immediate sense of hurt.

Pain floods the body with hormones in an attempt to control it, and other effects will happen as well. Think about the last time you hurt yourself; you probably got flushed and warm, right? Well, pain triggers similar reactions in other animals, including cats.

Cats in pain – particularly when it's acute, sudden, and high levels of pain – are likely to pant as a way to help cool themselves and calm their bodies.

Some signs of sudden pain, particularly when it's from an injury or a sudden issue, include lethargy, reduced appetite, hiding away, increased touch sensitivity, whining or yowling, changed behavioral patterns, limping or other movement issues, and other changes in behavior.

If something hurts, your cat's instincts are to try to soothe it any way they can, avoid things that aggravate it, and warn off potential threats.

That means they won't want you to touch the area that hurts, they'll hiss and swat at you and others nearby, and they'll possibly even try grooming or other soothing behaviors in the area.

If you suspect your cat is in pain – if the onset is sudden and especially if it's bad enough to cause panting – you should take them to the vet right away.

There are many different reasons for pain to occur, and almost all of them need immediate treatment.

3: Your Cat is Panting Because of Respiratory Illness

While it might not seem like an obvious connection, sometimes your cat might pant because they're having trouble breathing.

Either they aren't getting enough oxygen when they breathe, or they're not able to take deep breaths.

There are all sorts of different respiratory illnesses that cats can catch, from feline colds and flues to more nefarious infections. Pretty much all of them are worth talking to your vet about, especially if they've reached the point where your cat is panting.

Your vet can give you medications to give to your cat, as well as assess whether or not they're in any danger or if they're just uncomfortable.

Some of the most common signs of a respiratory irritation or infection include coughing, wheezing, hacking, or a runny or stuffy nose.

If your cat has a runny nose, the only thing you might notice is extra licking of the nose, which will likely become raw and scabbed. If you cat has a stuffy nose, they may make an audible sound when they breath.

Read More Cat Behavior Guides

• FAQ: Can CBD Oil Help Calm Cats with Situational Anxiety?
• My Kitty Wants to Be Outside: How Do I Keep Them Safe?
• Feeding Stray Cats: Essential Tips and Guidelines to Follow
• Cat Nail Biting and Pulling: Is It Harmful to Their Health?

Asthma

Asthma isn't just an affliction that can affect humans. It's a respiratory ailment that isn't caused by a bacteria or virus but rather a reaction in the body.

It's a disease characterized by swelling in the lungs and airways, making it harder for your fur baby to bring in enough air to fuel their body.

Asthma attacks can have several similarities to respiratory illnesses, but they don't tend to involve hacking, wheezing, or a runny nose like an infection will.

Instead, they're mostly going to involve coughing since it feels like the lungs are all gummed up with stuff your cat wants to get rid of. Unfortunately, that "stuff" is the lungs and airways themselves, so no amount of coughing is going to help.

Panting happens because, in between coughing and shallow breathing, they just need more air than they're getting.

There are two situations where your feline fur baby is having an asthma attack: expectedly or unexpectedly.

If your cat has been diagnosed with asthma, your vet will have given you a treatment plan and potentially even medication or another option for when an attack happens. If it happens unexpectedly, you'll want to bring them to the vet as soon as you can for that diagnosis and treatment.

While asthma may oftentimes be one of the most common dog-like panting causing respiratory conditions in cats, you may want to get your cat checked for other more serious conditions such as pleural effusion.

“Cats with pleural effusion often have rapid, shallow breathing. In some cases, you may notice increased respiratory effort – your cat’s abdomen may move significantly with each effort to draw breath. Cats may develop open-mouthed breathing in an effort to increase airflow. Some affected cats may also cough.”- VCA Animal Hospitals

4: Your Cat is Panting Because of Stress

Stress can cause a number of bodily reactions, including vomiting, potty accidents, and yes, panting. Think about when you’ve seen your cat pant. Were they riding in the car? Were they at the vet’s office?

“If you notice your cat is panting in the car, it is likely because they are stressed and anxious due to the travel. They may be unsure of the situation, which leads their heartbeat to increase and results in their panting. Cats enjoy having their own territory, so being put into a new environment, often in a carrier does not tend to be well received by them”- Greencross Vets

You can help reduce stress in these situations by making their carrier and car rides more frequent. Instead of going for a car ride once a year for the annual vet appointment, make a quick trip around the block every now and then.

Being in the car and returning home without being manhandled will help make the expectations of a car ride less daunting while minimizing the occurrence of panting.

To reduce the incidence of panting caused by stress, in addition to desensitizing your cat to car rides, you can try a few other tricks.

First, if your cat likes catnip, you can give your kitty some to eat it about 10-15 mins before the known stressful event. Just a pinch. When catnip is consumed orally, the effect is quite the opposite to the zoomies. Cats will normally get drowsy and feel relaxed after eating catnip.

Second, you may want to try CBD for cats. CBD has been known to help cats with a number of conditions including reducing situational anxiety.

Lastly, you can also try using feline pheromone sprays in the carrier to help soothe your stressed kitty.

5: Your Cat is Panting Because of Heart Failure

"Heart failure" sounds like a deadly and incredibly emergent condition, but it's actually more of a long-term disease.

Fully known as "congestive heart failure," it's a condition where fluid builds up around the heart and throughout the chest cavity. In people as well as in cats, heart failure like this is a long and slow decline, which can be managed in some ways but rarely fully prevented.

Why does your cat pant if they have heart failure?

Fluid builds up in the chest cavity making it harder to breath. The breathing becomes more shallow and therefore more rapid, often leading to panting.

If you're familiar with pressure and hydraulics (hold on, this won't be that complex), you know that water can't be compressed the way air can.

You can pressurize air by compressing it into a smaller space. You can't do that with water. Fluids, in general, don't compress in that way.

What this means is that when fluid builds up in the chest cavity, the lungs have less room to expand because they're trying to expand into space occupied by fluid.

The muscles that allow the lungs to breathe in aren't strong enough to compress air into the lungs – and they shouldn't be, that would damage the lungs – so they can't overcome the limited space.

As noted above, heart failure in cats is a slow process and mostly affects older felines, and it is more common in Persians, Ragdolls, and Maine Coons.

Medication can help stave off the issue, but it's not fully curable. If you suspect your cat has heart issues, you should schedule a cat cardiology appointment.

6: Your Cat is Panting Because of Airway Obstructions

As you can see from most of the reasons why a cat might be panting, it tends to have something to do with an inability to breathe.

If it's not excessively hot out, and your cat doesn't have the symptoms of another disease, it's possible that your fur baby swallowed or inhaled something and it got caught in their nose or throat, partially blocking their airway.

If this is the case, often the only symptom you'll notice is sudden panting, possibly with pawing at their head or other general signs of distress.

Sometimes coughing might occur as their body tries to expel the foreign object; other times, they can't breathe in enough to fully cough.

In any case, a partial airway obstruction is incredibly dangerous and deserves a trip to the emergency vet. It may be resolvable with as little as a pair of forceps and a bit of sedation, or it might require an emergency surgery.

Either way, once the foreign body is removed and your fur baby recovers, they'll be right as rain again.

Other Reasons Your Cat Might Pant

The six reasons above are the most common reasons why your cat might pant like a dog, but they aren't the only reasons.

In fact, there are quite a few other reasons. Anything that fills up the chest cavity, obstructs the airways or lungs, or causes pain or distress can lead to panting.

That includes, but is not limited to, things like heartworms, cancer, or a nutritional deficiency causing a reduced uptake of oxygen.

There are also non-emergency reasons why your cat might be panting.

• They had the zoomies and are all tuckered out. If your cat did a lot of running around, especially when it's warm out, they're probably just tired. They'll pant for a little bit before they calm down and settle in for a nap.
• They're friends with dogs. Sometimes, cats that have been raised with dogs, particularly alongside puppies since they were newborn kittens, might adopt some of the behaviors of the dogs they grew up with. This can include panting as a more common situational behavior rather than a physiological reaction.

What to do if Your Cat Starts Panting

If your cat is panting, take a deep breath and remember it doesn’t necessarily mean there is a nefarious cause.

“We usually don’t see it [panting] happen, but there are some circumstances where it may be completely normal.” Aimee Simpson, VMD, VCA Cat Hospital of Philadelphia.

Observe the circumstances that might have contributed to the panting and look for any other behavioral changes.

Length and frequency of panting, along with any accompanying behaviors can help indicate if the issue is serious or benign.

Short-term panting after a rigorous play session, or a car ride, likely no big deal.

Frequent panting with no obvious cause, should be evaluated by your veterinarian.

“If a cat's open-mouth breathing does not resolve within a few minutes, they should be seen by a veterinarian right away.” - Dr. Christa Coppola.

If you do need to bring your cat to the vet due to unresolved panting, consider the following tips:

• Try to keep your cat calm. Stressing your cat or making them anxious may result in the panting getting worse.
• If you have reasons to believe your cat is overheated, dampen their toe beans and ears with a cool, wet cloth.
• Avoid giving your cat anything to consume orally, whether it be food or water.

Read More Cat Behavior Guides

• Pounce and Play: 5 Video Games to Try with Your Cat
• What Are the Advantages of a Cat Tree for Your Cat's Health?
• Paws Off the Furniture! Teaching Your Cat Scratching Etiquette

Do you have any questions about why your cat is panting? As mentioned, if you are ever in doubt, it never hurts to call your vet. It could save your furry friend's life. But for any general questions surrounding the topic, please feel free to drop a comment down below! I'd be glad to help you out however I can.

One of the most fun aspects of raising a kitty is with no doubt: shed management. I’m sure you can sense my touch of sarcasm here.

Does it seem to you like no matter how much you sweep, vacuum, and dust, cat hair never goes away? I know, I feel the same. It’s exhausting. Especially when other family members in the household have allergies.

While shedding is normal in cats, excessive shedding is not.

Excessive shedding can be a sign of potential medical problems. This is why it’s critical for pet parents to learn to discern how much shedding is too much shedding.

In today’s post, I go deep into the reasons why cats shed, when they shed the most and how to manage shedding.

Oftentimes excessive shedding also comes along with additional hairballs. As usual I’m adding a short and great educational video on causes, prevention, and treatment for hairballs by Dr. Marcia Martin from Safe Harbor Animal Rescue.

BTW, did you know there is a national hairball awareness day? And yes, that’s a thing and it’s in April every year.

Let's talk about it.

Why Cats Shed

The purpose of shedding in cats is to remove dead hair and release natural oils in the skin.

The skin is the largest organ in any animal, and shedding serves as a normal self-preservation body process in all animals with hair.

On the one hand, dead hair that is not removed can cause skin irritation.

And on the other, natural oils secretion helps with waterproofing the hairs while maintaining the suppleness of the skin.

Before we go into the main reasons why cats shed, I thought it would be helpful to learn how hair works.

Did you know that hair has a four-phase life cycle? And, that certain hairs within the coat will be in a different part of the cycle at the same time?

Hair Growth Phases

• The first phase is called the anagen phase, and it's the growth phase of hair. This is when a hair follicle activates and grows hair, either growing a new hair in place or growing more of an existing strand of hair.

Here’s a fun fact about this stage, for certain animals, there is a genetically determined length, which is why they never need a haircut! How cool is that?

• The second phase is the catagen phase, and it's when the hair follicle transitions from active to dormant. This transitional phase involves tiny physiological changes to the hair follicle itself, and it's happening pretty much constantly to some set of hair follicles.
• The third phase is the telogen phase, and it's when the hair follicle is dormant. It's not growing new hair or changing in any way. You can think of this as a resting phase.
• The fourth and final phase is the exogen phase. You may have guessed it; this is the shedding phase. Many people group this stage in with the telogen phase, but a study actually showed this is a distinct phase. It’s worth noting that shedding can occur at any stage of the cycle.

No one is quite sure what triggers these phases to change. It's one of life's many mysteries.

And yes, this four-phase lifecycle applies just as much to cats and dogs as it does to people, with one added quirk.

Cats, being wild-ish animals, don't wear clothing. Us humans on the other hand add extra layers during the cold months and peel them off when the weather gets warm.

Since animals don't have that luxury they have to rely on their fur coat to keep them warm and protected from the elements.

That means in addition to the hair phase, which is constantly active with every hair at a different stage of the process, there's a seasonality to it as well!

1. Seasonal Changes

You already know what I'm about to mention: the winter and summer coats.

A winter coat is thicker, plusher, and better at trapping air and warmth against the body. Whether your kitty is indoor only or not, their body still prepares for the cold.

Unfortunately for us cat parents, the new plusher winter coat doesn’t just grow in. In order for the winter coat to grow, the summer coat has to get out of the way.

Of course, during spring and summer, that's the opposite of what you would want; the excess heat could cause heat stroke. So, the fur thins out, they lose their winter coat, and they return to a thinner summer coat.

While the summer coat protects their skin from UV rays and damage from stray sticks and thorns, the winter coat helps with trapping heat while repelling moisture.

2. The Sunlight's Effect on Cat Hair

How does a cat's coat know when to grow the winter coat and when to shed it? Now, that's a cool question.

The answer is, cats have something called a photoperiodic response. Most living things do! It's all about sunlight and cycles.

The earth, as you likely know, has a tilt to it, and that tilt gives us the seasons. One of those side effects is shorter or longer days, so more or less sunlight on average.

More sunlight means more likely summer conditions, which means more shedding for a thinner summer coat. Conversely, less sunlight means it's likely winter conditions, which leads to less shedding and the growth of a thicker coat.

Cats, of course, have a very strong association with this because they love nothing more than to spend hours upon hours basking in a sunbeam and soaking up those rays.

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3. Other Reasons Why Cats Shed

Aside from cyclical changes, cats can also shed when they are stressed. Have you ever noticed when you pet your cat at the vet’s office an unusually large amount of fur collects in your hand?

When we go to the vet, we always leave behind tumble weeds of fur! Sorry about that!

Certain health issues can also cause hair loss. Skin infections, allergies, parasites, and diseases like hyperthyroidism can all cause an excessive amount of shedding hair. We’ll dig into how much shedding is too much in a bit.

Fun Fact: In addition to shedding fur, cats also shed their whiskers and the outer sheath of their claws!

When Do Cats Shed the Most?

Cats will shed the most during coat transition periods. Specifically, cats will shed the most when they're changing from one type of coat to the next.

After all, it doesn't do them any good to wait until winter to start growing in their winter coat, right?

They'll start growing it in the fall, shedding their summer coat along the way. Likewise, they'll start growing their summer coat for warmer weather in the spring, so it's ready to go in summer.

Since this is regulated by sunlight, there are two major factors that can influence it.

The first is how much time your fur baby spends outside in the sun. If they're only spending a short amount of time in the sunlight every day, they'll be more prone to getting and keeping their winter coats.

This can happen if you have a home with relatively few windows and natural sunlight and you don't frequently take your cat for journeys outside.

The second is your geographic region. The geographic region will influence the photoperiodic response discussed earlier.

For example, cats that live in Seattle or London, where it tends to be drearier and rainier than other locations, may have different shedding patterns than cats in areas where they get a lot more sunlight on average.

Many indoor cats actually keep something closer to their winter coats all year 'round, shedding steadily at a higher level than the peak season for outdoor cats but lower than a full shed season for those same cats

Either way, shedding is a constant fact of life for your feline friend, no matter what.

Do Any Cats Not Shed?

Unfortunately, the answer is no, all cats shed to some extent. You might tend to think that hairless cats, like the Sphynx, don't shed. After all, how can they shed if they don't have a fur coat?

The truth is, they still shed; it's just a very fine, almost invisible kind of hair (sort of like what we people have on the barer patches of our bodies) rather than not shedding at all.

There are also a few breeds, like the Devon Rex and Cornish Rex, that shed less than other breeds.

They're sort of like the cat equivalent of poodles; they have shorter, curlier coats that don't shed as much because the evolved purpose of the fur is different.

They do still shed though, just not as much as a domestic short-hair or longhair cat.

Conversely, there are some cats that shed more than others. Some of the long-haired breeds, like Maine Coons, have thick double coats.

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These coats are higher maintenance, and while their hair cycle is longer, they shed a lot, and the length of the fur means it's even more visible everywhere.

If you have a cat with longer fur and they stop shedding, that can also be a sign of something going wrong. Cats with thicker fur coats that stop shedding should be checked out.

How Much Shedding is Too Much?

Sometimes shedding can seem excessive, but even if you're getting enough fur to make a whole other cat (organs not included), it's not likely to be excessive.

That said, there are some elements that can increase shedding, so if your fur baby has lost their winter coat in mid-winter or they're ending up with thin and patchy hair, it’s time for a vet visit.

But before you rush your cat to the vet, make sure to check on some factors that can increase shedding in cats.

Some of these factors include:

• Diet. Hair needs particular nutrients to grow, and that includes your fur baby's coat. They need plenty of protein, some carbohydrates, and healthy fats. There is also a range of micronutrients they'll need. If they're lacking in the right nutrition, their hair cycle will spin out of kilter.

“In all cases, quality and balance are the keys to good nutrition. A cat whose diet is inadequate to meet her dietary needs will have a dull, dry hair coat and will often shed excessively.” - VCA Hospitals

• Grooming. Cats love to groom themselves as a soothing behavior, a hobby, and a career. If they aren't sleeping or eating, chances are they're grooming. However, if your cat isn't grooming as much as they should be, they'll be more likely to shed everywhere.
• Brushing frequency. Many cats love being brushed – it's like you're grooming them – so it never hurts to run that brush through their fur. Keep in mind that the less you brush them, the more they'll shed everywhere since you aren't helping to remove and capture that excess fur. If you don't have a deshedding brush yet, you can grab one from our store!
• Stress. The idea of pulling your hair out when you're stressed is a bit of a myth, but stress does cause hair to shed unexpectedly. It's because, during times of stress, the body produces cortisol, the stress hormone. This disrupts many bodily cycles, including the hair cycle. But, due to the length of the hair cycle, it might not even show up for weeks or months! Generally, reducing stress across the board is a good thing for both your health and the health of your furry friend.

“When cats are stressed or frightened, rapid shedding is a normal physiologic response. The hairs that come out are called telogen hairs: those in the resting phase of the growth cycle, just before they are shed.” – Vetstreet.com

• Medical conditions. Hormone imbalances, cancers, age, and infections can all lead to excessive shedding. Not only are they causes of stress, but they also may directly impact the health of your fur baby's coat.

“An increase in shedding can be a symptom of hyperthyroidism or other common cat diseases. It could also be the result of a skin allergy.” - ASPCA Pet Health Insurance

• Allergies. Cats can have seasonal allergies just like we do, including springtime allergies like pollen or household allergies like dust. And with cats, sneezing isn’t the only typical allergy symptom like it is for us. It’s not uncommon to see runny eyes and irritated itchy skin.
• Skin issues. Ringworm, skin infections, and other skin problems can all damage or disrupt the hair follicles that grow fur, leading to excessive shedding.

“Ectoparasites are small insects that live on the surface of the cat, feeding off of skin, hair, and blood. Fleas and mites are two common types of ectoparasites that can infest cats, causing hair loss, irritation, and other health problems” – Kingsdale Animal Hospital

If your cat is shedding a lot, the first thing to take into consideration is the time of year and the conditions that might have led to it. If nothing seems out of the ordinary, chat with your vet to help identify the cause.

“Pets experiencing unusual hair loss should be evaluated by their primary care veterinarian or a veterinary dermatologist to help determine the reason for hair loss. They may conduct diagnostic tests and/or suggest a treatment plan tailored to your pet’s specific case.” – Texas A&M University | School of Veterinary Medicine

Also, watch out for excessive grooming. Cats can develop various neurological tics and other issues that may lead to excessive licking, nibbling, and pulling on the hair, which can even lead to bald spots! This is often treatable, but you need to stay on top of it.

“Psychogenic alopecia is also known as self-trauma, compulsive hair pulling, or overgrooming. It is typically seen in cats that are experiencing stress or anxiety.”- Kingsdale Animal Hospital

How to Manage Shedding in Cats

Since shedding is a natural fact of life, you can’t really do anything to stop it, but you can make changes to better manage it.

What does that mean?

1. Identify Causes of Excess Shedding

First, identify if there are any causes of excessive shedding, like allergens or stressors around, and remove them if possible.

The less you have causing stress-shedding, the easier it will be to handle.

2. Brush Your Cat's Hair

Next, keep up with the brushing. A common question many pet parents have regarding brushing their cats is do I need to brush my cat? Well the short answer is yes.

Your cat is going to groom themselves with their comb-like tongue, but you should help them out by brushing them regularly. We recommend a good natural bristle brush.

As I have covered in several posts, when it comes to brushing your cat, natural bristle brushes will always do a much better job to spread natural oils than synthetic ones.

Brush lightly, and don't yank on tangles, mats, or hair that hasn't worked itself loose yet.

3. Watch For Excessive Hairballs

A note on hairballs, for a moment. Hairballs are a stereotypical thing cats get, which we all know about because of cartoons, but the reality is always less glamorous; it's basically hair-thickened vomit.

Hairballs happen when your cat swallows hair during grooming. It's natural, and it builds up over time until they need to get rid of it.

Home Remedy for Hairballs by Dr. Marcia Martin | 1:50 Min Video

A healthy cat should only produce 1-2 hairballs a year, so if they're hocking them up more often, you may need to step up your grooming game.

While hairballs can gross out some cat parents, they aren't fun for your cat either. Hair in the digestive tract can cause all kinds of problems and even bowel obstructions in extreme cases.

It's better to give them some extra time with the brush than to have to deal with that!

4. Check For Matted Fur

Cats with long fur and especially older cats with long fur that are no longer regularly grooming will inevitably get matted areas if not brushed regularly.

If your fur baby has matted fur, you'll need a de-matting brush and a lot of care. If your kitty is excessively matted or hates to be brushed, you’ll likely need to visit your vet or a groomer for some professional help.

I also like to always advise against the use of slicker brushes. As I like to say, before you brush your cat with a slicker brush, you should try it on your hair first. I promise you; you will never do that to your cat again. Slicker brushes are better left for professional groomers.

It's pretty rare that a cat needs to be shaved, so don't jump to that option unless you've tried everything else.

To wrap things up, the biggest thing you can do to keep all that shedding fur off your sofa is to brush your kitty regularly.

Make it a special bonding time when they are on your lap. Having that hair trapped in the brush is much nicer than having it trapped in fabric.

Pro Tip: I like to use a damp cloth to remove fur from furniture. It does a great job at pulling the hairs out of woven fabric. Give it a try!

Do you know of any additional effective strategies for managing a shedding cat? If so, I'd love to hear them, and I'm sure other readers would, too! Be sure to leave a comment down below with your preferred strategies or any memorable stories you may have!

They need a friend, after all, right? Plus, giving your feline child a playmate will help keep them occupied during the hours of the day when you aren't around to give them attention and love.

There's just one question left. No, it's not whether or not you should adopt two; of COURSE, you're adopting two!

Who wouldn't? Just look at those adorable little eyes. No, the question is… what do you name them?

Before we go into pairs of names that go well together, we need to discuss the elephant in the room regarding cat name recognition:

What’s the point of spending time going through the process of finding meaningful and cute names when cats don’t even respond to them. Or do they?

As usual my blog is packed with research-backed knowledge. For pet parents looking for more cat care guides, I have sprinkled some additional great ones throughout the post.

I've also added a very short video about cat name recognition. It'll help clear some doubts in this regard. It's in Japanese, but trust me, all you need to speak is cat to understand it.

This post includes as many ideas as I can come up with for pairs of cats. Hopefully, you'll find something you like, and even if you don't, maybe you'll find some inspiration.

And hey, if you have ideas for names I haven't put on the list, add them to the comments!

Do Cats Actually Respond to Names?

Yes, they do, and there’s very strong evidence to support this fact. A team of researchers in Japan found cats can not only distinguish their names from other words, but also from the names of other cats.

“From the results of all experiments, it thus appears that at least cats living in ordinary households can distinguish their own names from general words and names of other cats… Sometimes, owners who keep multiple cats will call all of their cats’ names at the same time. In that situation, a cat may associate both its own name and those of cohabiting cats with reward… If cats associate their own name with rewards or stressors, it is reasonable to think that they react to their name.” - Hasegawa, Toshikazu, et al. Domestic Cats (Felis catus) discriminate their names from other words. Scientific Reports, vol. 1, no. 9, April 2019. doi:10.1038/s41598-019-40616-4

Now, you don't need to take the results of the study above at face value, watch the very short video below and you be the judge.

Cat Name Recognition Experiment 32-sec Video

Why Don’t Cats Come when Called?

Domestic cats didn’t evolve to obey. It’s not that they don’t care, or that they are independent as many people over the internet argue, it’s simply that during the thousands of years of the domestication process, they were not trained to do so.

According to the research team in the study cited above, the answer to this question seems to be linked to how cats were domesticated.

Unlike dogs, cats were not domesticated to obey human commands. Thanks Neanderthal people!

Now, this isn't to say that cats can’t be trained to come when called. The good news is that you can actually train your cat to come when called.

What Makes a Good Cat Name?

There’s no shortage of options for cat’s names. You can choose a name that goes with your cat’s appearance, a name that has a history, a name that goes with your cat’s personality, etc.

In addition to the above, a good cat name is one that your cat responds to. When picking your cat’s name, here are three considerations to keep in mind:

1. Names with one or two syllables are easier to learn by cats.
2. Cats are really good at recognizing names that end with "ie" or "y" sound.
3. Names that end in high-pitched noises work much better.

Famous Name Pairs

Having cleared the air about the most common doubts on cat’s cognitive abilities, let’s dive into the naming part.

To start off, why not go with some famous name pairs from pop culture? Some of these work best for same-sex pairs (a couple of sisters, usually), while others work best for opposite-sex pairs.

Your vast amount of options include names like:

• Minnie and Daisy – The mouse and the duck are iconic together!
• Thelma and Louise – Who doesn't remember this famous name pair?
• Sansa and Arya – Because no one can forget the Game of Thrones girl power.
• Buffy and Willow – For the fans of the vampire slayers.
• Buffy and Angel (or Xander, Giles, or Spike) – Really, any pair from Buffy is great.
• Venus and Serena – Gotta rep the greatest players of all time, right?
• Anna and Elsa – The Disney princess energy is strong with them.
• Luke and Leia – Star Wars is Disney now, so technically, these are prince and princess, right?
• Charming and Cinderella – Any princess and prince pairing is a great option.
• Tom and Jerry – Sure, naming one cat after a cat and another after a mouse is a bit weird, but it works.
• Ben and Jerry – As an added bonus, people names are always fun.
• Batman and Robin – Maybe your feline friends will fight crime when you're asleep?
• Mario and Luigi – The famous Mario brothers are instantly recognizable.
• Romeo and Juliet – Hopefully your felines won't be fated for the same end.
• Marge and Homer – Despite it all, they're still together decades later, just like you will be with your well-cared-for cats!
• Barbie and Ken – For anyone who has nostalgia for their childhood toys.
• Sonny and Cher – As an added bonus, you can post a picture and tag Cher on Twitter.
• Beauty and Beast – Really, any pair of Disney anything works great for cats.
• Mabel and Dipper – Gravity Falls is a fun show, and the personalities fit cats really well.
• Bonnie and Clyde – A great option for a little troublemaking pair.

Have more to add? There's a whole world of famous name pairs you can add to the list in the comments below!

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Pairs of Objects and Items

Some people don't like naming their cats after real people's names and prefer names that are either a little more fantastical (to avoid the "human Nigel" problem) or don't reflect people at all.

I’m personally a big fan of human names for fur babies! How funny is it to say something like, “Samantha is the worst coworker, all she does is sleep on the job!” Meanwhile people who don’t know you well don’t realize Samantha is a cat!

Here are some of the latter for you to peruse:

• Jelly and Jam – Two names for the same thing; this works well for twins.
• PB and Jelly – Peebs is a great nickname for a cat who may not answer to it anyway.
• Ketchup and Mustard – Bonus points if you get a red and yellow collar set for your kitties.
• Gin and Tonic – For the barflies among us who still love their kitties.
• War and Peace – Which is funnier; naming the rambunctious one War or Peace?
• Earth and Sky – Whether or not you like the cosmological connotations is up to you.
• Neptune and Jupiter – Any of the planets work, and the astrology can get pretty intense.
• Mac and Cheese – There's almost nothing more amusing than a cat named Cheese, is there?
• Fish and Chips – Naming a cat Fish is pretty good, too, not gonna lie.
• Spaghetti and Meatball – Just be careful not to slurp up your kitties in sauce!
• Cake and Pie – The debate is ongoing, but we're never really going to pick favorites.
• Yin and Yang – This works best if one cat is black and one is white, preferably with alternate markings too.
• Silk and Satin – You're going to be petting them constantly anyway, so why not name them after textures of fabric?
• Salt and Pepper – Another one that works well with the right color matching.
• Sugar and Spice – Because your kitties will be everything nice!
• Lemon and Lime – Pick your favorite citrus pairing and swap them in if you prefer.

Obviously, this list only scratches the surface of the ideas you can come up with for name pairing. Once more, if you have fun names, feel free to leave them in the comments. Bonus points if they're names you've used!

Same-Letter Names

Sometimes you want names that have a theme, but you don't want something quite as obvious as a famous name pair, a brand name set, or a pair of foods.

Perhaps everyone in your family has the same initial for their first name, why not continue that theme with the furry family members too?!

This list is a bunch of names in each letter of the alphabet to give you some ideas:

• Abby, Arnie, Angel, Alf, Alfredo, Angle, Apache, Adriane, Athens, Aura, Avalon, Anthony, Aspen, Apollo
• Brinkley, Baby, Baker, Baloo, Bandit, Bart, Bentley, Bread, Boots, Bolt, Boomer, Banana, Bill, Benny, Buddy, Butterscotch
• Cotton, Caesar, Canola, Chase, Chamomile, Chuck, Cosmo, Cumin, Carly, Cara, Carlitos, Coral, Casper
• Dover, Dean, Dale, Daisy, Darby, Devon, Dino, Ditty, Diva, Dom, Dodger, Dixie
• Enzo, Earl, Eaves, Echo, Ego, Einstein, Eris, Elijah, Eric, Elmer, Emerald, Electra, Eyes, Enya, Ebony, Eloise, Espresso
• Frank, Fairy, Fawn, Fatcat, Florence, Flint, Fire, Flounder, Freddie, Fiji, Fritz, Finn, Frost
• Gabe, Gadget, George, Giana, Garlic, Gazoo, Grace, Grape, Gyro, Gus, Grumps, Goober, Gizmo
• Harold, Honesty, Happy, Hades, Herman, Hops, Honeydew, Hathor, Hyperion, Hugo, Henry
• Isabelle, Ivan, Iago, Ian, Izzy, Ivy, Icy, Indie, Isaac, Iliana, India, Idris, Imaan, Isla
• Julie, Joker, Jace, Jafar, Jade, Jack, James, Janus, Jiggs, Joey, Juno, Judy, Jenna, Jules, Jet
• Kevin, Kiddo, Kate, Kanga, Kay, Kiwi, Karina, Kuzco, Kitty, Kirby, Kali, Koko, Kobe
• Leo, Laurel, Lena, Leah, Lemon, Liz, Lucia, Lychee, Larry, Lenny, Logan, Lorena, Lucifer, Linus
• Macha, Mason, Maxie, Mercury, Melon, Mirage, Mittens, Muffin, Mike, Morgan, Missy, Maple, Maurice
• Natalie, Nate, Nathan, Nick, Neo, Neville, Nemesis, Nike, Nutella, Nutters, Nero, Nibbles, Nacho, Noodles
• Ophelia, Oden, Oliver, Odie, Otto, Ozzie, Orpheus, Osiris, Ocean, Olivia, Obsidian, Oboe, Oscar
• Parker, Philia, Panda, Pacha, Pixie, Pineapple, Pickles, Pollux, Porkchop, Princess, Petunia, Palermo
• Query, Queue, Quincy, Quackers, Quinn, Quest, Quan, Quron, Quiro, Quill, Quince, Queeny
• Rambo, Ryan, Renee, Ratigan, Ripley, Rita, Rolly, Ratty, Reginald, Rufus, Rudy, Robin, Rowdy, Ruby
• Socks, Salem, Sandals, Saffron, Simon, Steve, Shadow, Sheriff, Skittle, Smokey, Slate, Shadow, Sunny
• Theo, Travis, Tina, Tabbie, Tom, Thyme, Tigger, Tiki, Tomato, Typhoon, Tux, Tourmaline, Timon, Turbo
• Uriel, Universe, Ursula, Uranus, Uriah, Ulysses, Uma, Umberto, Usher, Urban, Ukulele, Uber
• Valerie, Valentine, Venus, Venom, Violet, Vivian, Vinnie, Victor, Velocity, Vincent
• Warner, Wes, Walker, Wander, Warden, Wainright, Whimper, Witch, Winkie, Winston, Wilbur, Wookie
• Xerox, Xavier, Xenos, Xyla, Xenia, Xiao, Xia, Xenophon, Xander, Xoss
• Yara, Yona, Yahoo, Yen, Yoko, Yippee, Yogi, Yzma, Yellow, Yolanda, Yao, Yazmin, Yoda
• Zero, Zen, Zinnia, Zena, Zoey, Zachary, Zeus, Zephyr, Zeke, Ziggy, Zelda

There are thousands upon thousands of names starting with every letter of the alphabet, so you have plenty to choose from!

There are also a few that have a bit of a twist to them, such as these.

• Psalm and Pterodactyl
• Gnomon and Gnostic
• Wrangle and Wreath
• Knife and Knurl
• Knick and Knack

In fact, there's a whole book about words with silent letters, just to add that extra layer of fun to your kitty names. Anything goes when it comes to naming pets.

Additional Theme Ideas

Let's be honest here; a giant list of names can be kind of useful, but a list of themes might be even better. So, I've decided to round off this list with ideas for ideas if you know what I mean.

Naming your littermates, siblings, or adoptee pairs is tricky, but you're sure to find something that resonates with you eventually, right?

Here are a few themed name ideas:

Locations.

• Perhaps you have a favorite vacation spot or a city you would love to go back and visit. Think Paris or Maui. My little kitty nephew is named Hershey after Hershey, Pennsylvania.
• Famous Romantic Pairs. There are a few of these already on the list, like Romeo and Juliet, but you can also go with names like Antony and Cleopatra (Cleocatra?), Pongo and Perdita, or Adam and Eve.
• Sibling Pairs. There are all sorts of common names for pairs of siblings of all genders. Romulus and Remus, Castor and Pollux, Niles and Frasier, Bart and Lisa; just pick any pair you like.
• Inseparable Friends. Media is full of friend pairs, so you have your pick of the litter. Try pairs like Amos and Andy, Betty and Veronica, Calvin and Hobbes, Buzz and Woody, Nemo and Dory, Frodo and Sam, Merry and Pippin, or Tigger and Pooh.
• Split-up Names. Take a single compound name and split it up to spread it between your fur babies. Dust and Buster, Harley and Davidson, Bumble and Bee, Fortune and Cookie, Sweet and Sour, there are all sorts of options.
• Famous Cats. Perhaps you’re a big movie fanatic, or love cartoons. You could choose a name like Felix, Sylvester, Milo, Garfield, Oliver, Simba, Figaro, T’Challa, or Bagheera.
• Food Names. This has some overlap with a few other points on this list, but you've always got additional pairs like Beef and Cheddar, Soda and Pop, Garlic and Onion, Bread and Butter, and really anything else that sounds good to you that day.
• Animal Names. I think it’s adorable when cats have the name of another animal. We called our tuxie kitty, Moose. Think of what your kitty resembles or how they act. Names like Donkey, Seal, Cow, Bear, Goose, and Piggy could all work. Maybe you’ll end up with a house full of farm animals?! I even call my parent’s cat Bunny because he only has a little tail nub like a rabbit.
• Plant Names. Who doesn't love naming a pet after something in nature? You have flower names like Rose, Petunia, and Lily. You have tree names like Spruce, Willow, and Maple. You have vegetable names like Bean, Broccoli, and Onion. You have fruit names like Pear, Apple, and Grape. The sky is the limit with the number of different plants you can pick.
• Celestial Names. There are as many heavenly bodies as there are elements on earth, and you can pick from them freely. Try names of planets like Mars and Mercury, names of stars like Orion, Antares, or Lyra, or any of the many other celestial names.
• Pun and Joke Names. The well of humor found in puns is endlessly deep. Try Sir Isaac Mewton, Catpurrnicus, Oedipuss, Harry Pawter, Ravenpaw, Furnando, Pawl, Jessicat, Pawtrick, Clawdia, Meowgaret, Ben Catleck, Fleas Witherspoon, Mewoly Cyrus, Meowtini, Mewlon, or Catamari. Okay, some of those were a little painful, but you get the idea.
• Music Names. Musical notation is a deep well as well. Clef, Forte, Treble, Major and Minor, Alto (probably the best choice – though I might be bias 😉), Tenor, Bass, String, Cello, Viola, Piccolo, Tremolo, Capo, or Reed.
• Different Language. This category is huge right? Perhaps you like a common name in English, switch it up and use the name in another language. Maybe your fuzzy brown tabby looks like a bear but go with Oso (bear in Spanish) instead!

Of course, if we're being honest, how often are you going to call your cats by their names? They're either going to be some variation of "kitty," something like "come here you" or "stop that," or a bunch of pet names like "snugglebuns" and "fuzzybelly."

Their name on paper is important, sure, but if you come up with something elaborate like "Lord Stormageddon Conqueror the Fifth," it doesn't really matter if all you call them is Stormy.

What if My Chosen Name Doesn't Fit?

We've all been there. You pick a name that seems perfect for your kittens based on the limited interactions you've had with them in a shelter or as young kittens, so you pick names based on those personalities.

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Then, you come to find out that their personalities change as they mature, and the names no longer really fit.

What if Sunny is the most aggrieved and somber cat you've ever owned, and Cloudy is the rambunctious goofball?

The truth is you can call your cats whatever you want to call them. Their legal names are relevant for paperwork, but even that can be changed with ease as long as you work with your vet. I personally think it’s funny when kittens grow out of their names and a “Sunny” becomes the grouchiest cat.

If you have kids, you can even ask for their help filling out their 'legally required' PET-1016 paperwork to finalize their name change!

The tricky part is training a cat to answer to their new name, but that's not really much different from training them to answer to their old name was.

While cats may not always come when called, as noted above, they do recognize and react to their names

Still need some help picking a name? Try out a cat name generator! If you’re having trouble deciding between a few names, poll your family and friends on social media!

Did you pick related names for your kitties? What did you pick? What are your favorite names for pairs of cats? Did I include your favorite, or do you still need to add it to the list? Please, share your best names with me in the comments; I'd love to hear them.

As always, if you found this content useful, all our blog content on toe beans is shareable. So, what are you waiting for to spread the love? Go ahead and hit any social media icon of your preference around the post for instant sharing with friends and family. Sharing is caring!

Because Every Cat Deserves the Best

At toe beans, we’re passionate about helping you provide the care your cat deserves. Our US-made products are manufactured with you and your feline friend in mind, offering the perfect balance between comfort and functionality. From our cozy cat beds for restful retreats to our organic cat toys for hours of safe play.

Enhance their life further with the cleanest USDA organic cat grass grown right here in the US, or simplify grooming with our cat and environmentally gentle cat grooming supplies.

We are raising the bar in the pet supplies industry. By prioritizing supply chain controls, safety, raw material integrity, and sustainability, we ensure every product your cat comes in touch with meets the highest standards of quality.

Treat your cat to the care they deserve. Explore our exclusive cat supplies today. Exclusively available on toe-beans.com

Um hello, cute, new little bed here, love it please!

Your cat insists instead on taking over that old shipping box or squeeze into a basket you have out for other purposes.

Perhaps you’re a pet parent that wants your kitty to snuggle up in a cat bed at night time instead of having them sleep in your bed with you.

Or perhaps you’re like me who, when single used to snuggle up at night with a bunch of kitties but happen to get a partner that is allergic to cats, so now the bedroom is off limits.

Whatever the reason we all want our fur babies to have a comfy place to settle in for the evening or even just a nighttime nap.

There's just one little problem here; how do you convince a cat to do, well, anything?

As fiercely independent animals, cats are wonderful companions, but they can be hard to train. Is it even possible to convince your cat to sleep in their own bed at night? What about getting them to sleep in that new cute bed that’s in your living room?

Truthfully, the answer is yes!

However, it may be harder with older cats, cats that aren't used to being trained, or cats that have separation anxiety or other clinginess issues.

Let's talk about how to get your cat to sleep in their own bed, shall we?

Should I let My Cat Sleep in My Bed?

There's a surprising amount of argument as to whether or not it's a good idea to let your cat sleep in your bed with you at night.

• On one hand, having a snuggly cat is one of the best feelings as you're trying to go to sleep. A warm, purring little cuddlebug is a great companion, and we all love seeing our feline friends seek us out for comfort and companionship. Some health experts even say that having a cat in bed with you can be a stress-reducing and soothing way to fall asleep faster and sleep better. I should say my husband has his doubts about this theory.
• On the other hand, cats are often awake and active at night. They nap all day, and at night they can get the zoomies, get into trouble, or even get frisky. What happens if you're trying to sleep, shift around, and suddenly find your toes attacked through the blankets? What happens if your bored cat decides to walk across your pillow and step on your face? This kind of disruption can hurt your ability to sleep through the night and leave you feeling tired the next day.

On top of all that, there are associated issues relating to cats being animals. If your cat happens to get fleas, finding them in bed with you is a nasty surprise.

Not to mention that if they happen to have indigestion, the last thing you're going to enjoy is waking up to a hairball in the process of being deposited on your bed. For that matter, if you roll over in your sleep and roll onto them, neither one of you are going to have a pleasant time.

Based on the above, the answer is evident: only you can decide.

However, despite the several benefits that some experts and cat lovers claim, the cons may outweigh the benefits though. The main reason being serious health related concerns.

While the odds of contracting a disease from your cat are very low, when they do occur, they can be lethal.

And exposure to and accumulation of your cats’ excretions and secretions on your bed linens only increases the risk. Especially for individuals with weak immune systems, older adults, and children.

In 2011 the Center for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) issued a research paper titled Zoonoses in the Bedroom. The paper details a number of maladies — plague, parasites, other bad bacteria, and yes, cat scratch fever — that people have contracted from sleeping next to or being licked by pets (not just cats).

The document also discusses a case where a 60-year-old patient with chronic eczema passed due to septic shock and renal failure caused by Capnocytophaga canimorsus, a bacteria found in the gums of dogs and cats, after his dog licked his legs.

In another instance, a 69-year-old man who had recently had a hip replacement was infected by Pasteurella multocida bacteria. The man stated he shared his bed with his dog before and after the surgery sleeping under the covers on the same side of the bed as his affected leg.

While the cases above might be isolated cases, the truth of the matter is, sleeping with your fur babies does increase the risk of contracting a zoonotic disease.

But again, it’s a personal choice. So long as you’re informed you can then make the determination that you find best.

In case you’re wondering, I slept with my kitties for the first half of my life, however for a couple of reasons, I no longer do.

Reasons Why a Cat Might Not Like Their Bed

The first thing you'll want to consider is preferences.

Cat beds come in a huge range of different types. Some are open, and others are enclosed. Some are soft, others are firm. Some are fuzzy, others are low-pile.

One of the main reasons why your cat might not be sleeping in their bed is really just because they don't like it.

So, what can you consider checking for preferences? Sadly, you can't just ask them, but you can consider specific factors and swap beds until you find one they like.

These specific factors include things like:

• Texture. Some cats prefer firmer surfaces, while others like softer surfaces. Some will prefer fuzzier beds, while others want something flatter, or a tight-knit surface instead. If your cat bed is at one extreme in one quality or another, you might try picking up a different bed and see if they like the different texture more.
• Temperature. Is it particularly cool or particularly warm where you are? Remember that cats have a slightly higher internal body temperature than we do, so what we find room temperature might be a little cool for them, and what we find warm might be unpleasantly hot for them. Often, a plush, fuzzy cat bed traps a lot of heat, so if it’s already warm it might end up as unpleasant for more than a short nap, especially if you've left it in their favorite sunbeam.
• Shape. Oddly enough, our feline companions tend to have preferences for particular shapes just as much as textures. The difference between a square bed and a circular bed, even if they're otherwise identical, can but the deciding factor. One way to test this is to get two beds of different shapes, cover them with the same sheet or blanket you know they like elsewhere, and see if they prefer one over the other.
• Covered or not. Some cat beds (like, for example, the cat cave in our store) are covered and enclosed spaces. Some cats, particularly rescues, outdoor cats, and strays, tend to prefer a hidey-hole where they can sleep with their backs to a wall in relative security. They want to feel enclosed and safe, so an open bed won't work for them. Other cats are the opposite and will settle in on a perfectly open bed. An easy way to test this is to use a cardboard box with a hole cut in the side to cover their bed and see if that makes them more likely to sleep in it. Just make sure not to pull the box off to check!

One final thing to consider is location (more on this below). You can narrow this down in a few ways. First, start by watching your fuzzy friend and see where they normally doze. Do they curl up on the floor or a couch, or do they tend to find a higher shelf to nap on? Height can make a big difference!

Another aspect is competition for the space. A bed isn't going to do well in a busy hallway, in front of your door, or in another place where your cat will be disrupted when they're dozing.

Any time you're testing one of these changes, give it at least a few weeks to see if your cat will adapt to it. Fur babies can take some time to warm up to a new change in their environment, even something as simple as a bed.

They may not like the residual smells on it, or they want to make sure it's not dangerous, or whatever. If you put it down, and your cat doesn't sleep in it for a few days, that doesn't mean they don't like it; it just means they aren't sure about it yet.

Now that we know some reasons your kitty isn’t sleeping in their bed, it’s time to talk about ways to get them snuggled up.

Give Your Cat Some Encouragement

Beds are meant to be a place of comfort, relaxation, safety, and security. You want your cat to feel at ease in their bed.

One way you can do that is by giving them little bits of encouragement to use the bed. Now, I don't mean picking them up and putting them on the bed and petting them until they settle down – though there is nothing wrong with this approach if your cat is open to it. But remember, cats tend to be independent, so if you're trying to make that decision for them, they might reject it.

Instead, just make being in the bed a rewarding experience. One good way to do that is to position a treat in the bed every so often. You don't need to drag your cat to the bed so they can witness you giving them the treat, though.

Just put the treat on the bed, and wait for your fur baby to find it. It won't take long, so long as your treats are kept as treats and are associated with high-value activities.

In other words, if you give your kitty treats just for being adorable, searching for the reward may not be very appealing.

If you don't want to use treats for this purpose – like if your common cat treat is a little tuna, and you don't want to just leave fish sitting on their bed – you can try catnip.

Catnip can be tricky though.

Some cats get riled up when they experience it, so putting it in their bed won't make it a place they like sleeping; it'll make it more of a playtime location.

On the other hand, other cats get drowsy when they get a hit of the 'nip, so it will be perfect for their bed. Just make sure not to overdo it, and remember that catnip doesn't work on young kittens.

Also, some cats just don't react to catnip at all, either, in which case you're out of luck on that front.

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• Paws Off the Furniture! Teaching Your Cat Scratching Etiquette
• The Gentle Approach: Tips to Calming an Angry Kitty
• Feeding Stray Cats: Essential Tips and Guidelines to Follow
• FAQ: Can CBD Oil Help Calm Cats with Situational Anxiety?

Pay Attention to Scent

Cats have good eyes and ears, but it's their noses that really shine.

Scent marking is incredibly important among felines, even those who have been spayed/neutered or otherwise aren't going to be aggressively marking territory.

As you might expect, there are two scents that are of prime importance here. Theirs, and yours.

Cats use scents to mark their own territory. If their scents disappear, or if they're overridden by the scent of another animal, they'll feel like they're in competition for their space. They may not want to use a bed that isn't firmly theirs.

P.S. If you don't have a cat bed yet for your furry best friend, check out our awesome cat caves! They're even customizable and we can add their name to it.

This is why cat experts tend to recommend cat beds that are porous and will absorb cat scents passively.

You should still clean your cat bed occasionally, but try to make sure it has a removable cover, so the foam inside can still absorb and keep their scent. Even then, washing their bed may mean they won't like it for a few days or weeks before they get used to it again.

If your cat is very clingy and likes to be with you every waking hour (and most sleeping hours), their own scent won't be enough. So, instead, you need to mark their bed with your scent.

Since humans don't exactly have scent-marking organs, you have to find a way to do this marking. Usually, one of the best ways to do it is to wear a t-shirt for a few days and then use that now scent-soaked shirt as a prop for your cat's comfort. Alternatively, simply pick a few pieces of clothes from your laundry basket.

I like to use throw blankets as scenting objects. When I throw my Sosa’s blankets in the wash, I always sit with them for a while before I put it back in the spot it came from. It’s even better when she comes to sit on my lap while I’m using the fresh blanket.

Case in Point: Sosa recently had an accident in her Snugloo, which resulted in me spraying a little Lysol to sanitize and then a little soapy rag to clean the spot. I left it to air out, but after a couple of days she gave it a good sniff and walked away. I took a small throw blanket and snuffed it inside the Snugloo to re-scent it and now she’s back to sleeping inside.

To Every Cat Their Own Bed

In households with multiple cats, it's important that each furry friend has their own space and their own resources.

Each cat and dog should have their own bowl (and even possibly feeding location if they're defensive about food), and likewise, each cat should have their own litterbox.

Why would a bed be anything different?

Giving each cat their own bed is a good way to ensure that they have a space of their own, not a space they have to share with someone else. It might even help to have the beds separate enough that they're in different rooms.

On the flip side, if you have multiple kitties that are big cuddlers, make sure to get a bed that fits them both.

At some point we couldn't find a cat bed big enough for our three kitties so we got them a medium dog bed to share. It worked like a charm.

Now, I know what you might be thinking, I have 5 cats, and so getting a bed for each can be pricey! Well, guess what, you don't have to spend a lot of money to make sure each cat gets their own bed. You can actually make them yourself very easily and affordably!

Location, Location, Location

What are the three most important things to consider with real estate, you got it, location, location, location.

Consider your kitty’s bed a little place they can call home inside their larger home. I mentioned location as a potential problem earlier, and this should be one of your main considerations if a bed is being avoided.

When trying to pick a location for your cat bed, consider the rooms your kitty spends the most time. What about the places within that room? Are they sprawled out on the floor? Curled up in a tight ball on the comfy sofa? Perhaps there is a bookcase that the light to snuggle on or on top of a high piece of furniture.

Use these clues as ideas on where to place the bed. You can also use the locations as clues as to what type of bed your kitty might prefer.

For example, a kitty who prefers to lay stretched out might need a bigger open bed so they can lay comfortably. An older kitty or one that tends to snuggle into blankets might prefer a cave style bed that holds in their body heat.

Also consider air currents. Did you place the bed too close to the vent during the summer? The cool air might be a turn off, but it might be an enticing location when the heat is turned on.

Just remember it doesn’t make sense to put a bed in the office because you have the perfect nook for it if your cat never naps in your office in the first place.

Use Gentle Dissuasion

Sometimes, it's not that you want your cat to sleep in their bed and more that you just don't want them to sleep in yours.

In that case, there are a variety of strategies you can use to gently repel them from your bed in a way that doesn't ruin their positive relationship with you but makes them less likely to be comfortable on your bed.

Washing your linens frequently to remove both your scent and theirs can help. Avoiding ever rewarding them or playing with them on your bed can help too – this includes the adorable play time when they help you change the sheets!

The less beneficial you make your bed, the less likely they will be to want to hang out there. Plus, if you identify that your feline friend doesn't like a particular texture, you can get a blanket of that texture and use it for yourself.

If you’re trying to get your kitty to avoid a specific chair, you can lay down a piece of foil as the crinkle noise is generally off-putting. You can also gently relocate your fur baby to a more preferred location.

Give It Time

The key to remember about all of this is that training any animal, and especially cats, takes time.

Whether you're trying to get them to learn a trick, break them of a bad habit, or just use their own bed, it will take weeks or months of diligent and consistent effort to train them.

There's no easy conversation to have, no switch to flip, that can make your cat do what you want them to do overnight.

Take time, use patience, and keep it up. Eventually, you'll have a cat that sleeps where you can mutually agree that they should sleep. What more could you want?

I have this general theory that if you plan to get rid of a bed, they’ll start using it. We had a cat bed in our living room for over a year – we never actively encourage any of our kitties to use it, but it was there if they were interested.

It wasn’t until I picked up the bed to move it – got distracted and sat it back down that suddenly it became a new favorite spot – insert eye roll here. Cat logic at its best.

Have you ever had to convince your furry friend to sleep in their own bed rather than yours? If so, how did you go about it? Was it a relatively simple process, or perhaps, did you have a bit of difficulty? I'd love to hear all your stories, and I'm sure other readers would as well! So be sure to share yours in the comments section below!