After all, if we don't, they're either going to seek it out themselves (like a dog drinking from the toilet), or they're going to end up dehydrated, or both.

The trouble is, even when we replace water in their bowls, sometimes our furry friends are surprisingly picky. A lot of cats, for example, simply don't like standing water. They'd much rather drink from a faucet than from a still bowl of water, no matter how fresh it is.

There's a solution to this: automatic pet water fountains. These can be a great idea, but are there any drawbacks? What should you keep in mind, and why should you consider investing in a fountain for your fur babies?

What Are Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

The usual way of keeping your pet hydrated is a bowl that you fill with fresh water, and empty and refill every so often so the water is fresh and cool.

The general advice is to change your pet's water at least once a day, and more often if they drink too much of it, spill it, or if it gets dirty, such as if some stray food is dropped into it, or if dust and pet hair settles in it.

Automatic fountains are essentially water bowls that come with additional features to circulate the water. Some of them are little more than a pump and a cone in the center of the bowl, so water in the bottom is circulated to the top and spills down the side, continually filtering and circulating the water.

Others have small fountain-like streams. Some have added features, like the ability to plumb them into a water line directly so they always have fresh water or a mechanism to cool the water they circulate. There are as many different designs as there are brands selling them.

The goal of an automatic fountain is usually to keep water circulating, usually with a filter to keep particulates, dust, hair, and other debris out of it as much as possible. This makes it a much more pleasant experience for your beloved cat or dog to have a slurp when they're thirsty.

Believe it or not, some pets will avoid water even if it's available and will even potentially dehydrate themselves if that water is not to their liking.

Different individuals have different inclinations, as well. I've seen formerly feral cats happily drink from a muddy puddle, while a picky pup might turn their nose up at water they didn't see poured for them, even if you poured it just moments ago.

Do Cats Like Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

When you think about an automatic pet water fountain, you're probably thinking about cats.

Cats are traditionally the picky bunch, who might turn their nose up at a food if they've had it too often and who might have a strong and vocally expressed preference for a thin drip from the bathroom faucet rather than their water bowl.

Automatic water fountains are so often associated with cats that if you simply Google "automatic pet water fountain," the vast majority of the results are for cats, with a few token results for "cats and dogs" thrown in and very few specifically about dogs.

Of course, cats are picky about everything, so they may or may not like the type of automatic water fountain you get. If they turn their nose up at one, consider trying a different style before writing it off entirely.

Do Dogs Like Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

Most of the time, when you think of a dog having a drink, it's a bowl of water hastily splashed down at a dog park, or a park fountain with a doggy bowl at the bottom, or even a public-use bowl outside a local business (which you might consider passing by, as they can be a vector for disease).

If your canine companion will happily schlop schlop schlop out of any old bowl they find, do you need a fancy, pricey automatic fountain?

The truth is, there are some pretty good reasons to get an automatic fountain for a dog as well. Dogs can be just as picky as cats, sometimes.

They may also simply run out of water faster, and automatic fountains tend to have a larger capacity than a dog bowl, especially the ones that can be plumbed into your water lines. So, keep in mind that the benefits of a pet water fountain aren't just for cats; dogs can love them, too!

What Are the Benefits of Using Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

There are a lot of benefits to having an automatic water fountain for your pets, so let's go through them.

#1: They help guarantee your pet has access to fresh, clean water at all times.

Automatic water fountains typically have a larger capacity than a standard water bowl, both because they're physically larger and because they have internal workings like the pump and hoses that contain even more water.

They're often designed to not run dry in all but the most arid climates, as long as you're around to top them off once a day or so.

If you've ever come home from a long shift at work and had to immediately refill your pet's water bowl because it ran dry while you were out, you know how valuable it could be to have a larger capacity water source available for them.

Some people even resort to leaving a sink running, though, of course, that also racks up your water bills, something none of us want.

#2: They help keep the water your pets are drinking clean.

One of the biggest benefits to an automatic water fountain is not just circulating the water, but filtering it.

Some of them just use simple mesh filters to keep out pet hair and stray kibble, but others have more detailed filters, even up to activated charcoal similar to what you would have in your own Brita or Pur filters.

The longer water stays stagnant, the grosser it can get. Everything from pet dander and dirt from paws to microorganisms and parasites can start to make a home in a pet's water bowl.

While you're unlikely to have serious issues if you're changing the water every day, it's still nicer for you and your pets to have filtered water going for them, right?

Some of our pets are also much more sensitive to the quality of their water than others. You might think the water is fine, but if there's enough dirt, or oil, or other contaminants in the water that your pet can smell it, they might not want to drink – and will end up dehydrated because of it.

#3: They can be more enticing to your pets.

One of the natural instincts that both cats and dogs possess is an instinct to pursue fresh water. Most animals have an inherent awareness that stagnant water means water that might be dirty, full of germs or parasites, or that will otherwise make them sick when they drink it.

Some, especially the stray and feral animals we rescue, learn this the hard way. Others just have a nudge in the back of their fuzzy little brains that says the sound of running water is more enticing than a stagnant pool.

The noise of running water is, in fact, often the point. The gentle burble of a water fountain can be very compelling and can help ensure that your cats or dogs (or both!) are going to drink more water throughout the day, ensuring they stay hydrated.

This can be especially valuable if you have a pet with kidney issues, where hydration is even more important.

#4: They can help keep the water a cooler temperature.

Think about beverages you enjoy. What is more satisfying: a hot cup of coffee or a room-temperature cup of coffee? Which would you rather drink on a hot day: water that has been sitting out in the sun and is a balmy 75 degrees or water that is a crisp, cool 40?

A pet water fountain is unlikely to be keeping water at refrigerator temperature, but the circulation helps use evaporative cooling, plus passive systems like a simple metal construction to disperse heat, and keep the water cooler.

Cooler water, even by just a few degrees, is more refreshing than water that is at room temperature. This, too, helps entice your pets to drink and stay hydrated.

Are There Drawbacks to Using Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

If all of that sounds great, should you rush out to buy an automatic water fountain for your cats, dogs, and anyone else in the household? Maybe, but keep in mind that there are some drawbacks to using these automated fountains.

#1: They can be fairly expensive.

A simple cat or dog bowl might not cost more than $10 at your local pet supply store. Meanwhile, automatic fountains can range anywhere from $25 for a cheap, imported, maybe-not-so-high-quality device, all the way up to $90, $100, or even more for high-quality fountains. Some of the most advanced, easily-maintainable, app-controlled fountains can be well over $100.

Add to this the fact that these are moving devices, with electronics and pumps and hoses and multiple points of failure, and you might end up buying a new one every few years, as opposed to a bowl, which you probably won't need to replace for the lifetime of your pet. Then again, as pet parents, we know our little fuzz balls can be expensive, so it's par for the course.

#2: They need regular cleaning.

There's no way to run a water fountain without it needing cleaning sooner or later. The particulate filters need cleaning when dirt and hair end up in the water and get caught in them.

Charcoal and other filters need replacing on a schedule, when they get gummed up enough that they inhibit the flow of water. Even hoses might need replacing if enough time passes that they get clogged up or turn brittle and risk breaking and making a mess.

This goes doubly depending on the kind of water you're using for your pet's fountain. Most tap water, for example, has a fairly high mineral content, and those minerals build up and can clog up the fountain or stain it over time. The longer you go without cleaning off mineralization, the harder it is to do so.

Note: it may be tempting to use distilled water to avoid this issue. Unfortunately, while we tend to think of water as "empty," it's usually not.

Sources of bottled water, spring water, or even mineral water contain just that: minerals, some of which your pets need to stay healthy. Long-term distilled water consumption runs the risk of, in particular, magnesium deficiency.

There's also a small but non-zero risk of a poorly made or damaged water fountain shorting out and zapping your pet. Generally speaking, a short like that will trip a breaker (or a fuse in the device) before it becomes a hazard, but the cheapest of the cheap devices might not. That's why I always recommend looking for quality, not just the cheapest option on the shelves.

#3: They can be noisy, which might be irritating to you.

This is a more minor concern, but depending on the kind of fountain you get, it might have a fairly noisy pump.

The ideal of a fountain is that the noise you hear is the trickling sound of water, not the grinding of an electric motor, but the cheaper the fountain, the less likely it is to be quiet about its job.

Some people can easily tune out this noise, while others are deeply annoyed by it. Then again, some people – especially if you've ever lived through a burst pipe or other water issue – might find the sound of running water to be somewhat triggering. It's a balancing act.

A particularly noisy pet water fountain also runs the risk of being annoying to your pet, which is a bigger issue. If the noise of a pump drives them away, it's not a good investment.

Should You Get an Automatic Pet Water Fountain?

Truthfully? The answer is probably yes. The benefits are high enough, and the drawbacks are manageable enough that the balance is worth it.

Just make sure to use the right kind of water, keep the device well-maintained, and don't get one that is overly cheap or unnecessarily complex. I don't know why anyone would need an automatic fountain controlled by an app, do you?

Once your pets enjoy some fresh burbling water, they won't want to go back, and neither will you.

Do you have any questions about anything I discussed in this article? If so, I'm always more than happy to help however I can, so leave your questions in the comments section down below!

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Cats are also a lot like children in that one of their favorite ways to play with each other tends to be some form of roughhousing. While you can discipline children and tell them to get along, it's a lot harder with cats.

On top of that, it's a lot harder to tell whether or not cats are just roughhousing or if they're legitimately fighting with one another.

They make scary noises, swat at each other, and hold intense stare-downs, and it can look a lot like a fight if you don't know what you're seeing.

So, are your cats playing with each other, or are they fighting? Let's talk about it.

Are Your Cats Fighting?

The simple answer is that most of the time, your cats are playing.

This is especially true if they're littermates or long-time housemates; that is, cats who are familiar with each other.

Fighting is more likely if you're introducing cats to each other for the first time or just relatively recently.

They can scuffle with each other if they aren't comfortable with each other, if one of them is fiercely territorial, or if they're still trying to sort out territories within the household.

It's important to keep this in mind, too, since you may need to invest in a second feeding station, bed, and litter box if one cat is bullying another out of theirs.

If your cat is encountering a visitor cat – through a window, or when they're both outside, or if a friend brought their feline over – then there may be some fighting, too.

A lot of this tends to depend on the temperament of the cats involved and how they view territory. Some of the more territorial cats will fight off any other cat that comes into their zone, while others might be okay with pretty much anything.

What Are the Signs that Cats Are Fighting?

If two cats are fighting, what should you look for? Here are the signs to keep in mind.

Claws out. Cats that are fighting are likely to have their claws out and visible and will be more likely to swat, strike, bat, and swipe at one another.

This is an escalation, though! Keep in mind that cats really don't like physical confrontation. They'll do a lot of posturing and vocalizing before they get physical and will only resort to violence if an interloper is aggressing on them.

Cats may be incredible hunters, but they hate confrontations they aren't in command of. In the wild, a fight can lead to debilitating injury, infection, or even death in extreme cases.

The repercussions are less severe with cats we can just take to the vet, but you still don't want to let them fight if you can avoid it.

Posturing. In a cat fight, the cats will tend to be very tense and stiff. They'll do a lot more staring down each other and making a lot of noises rather than physical aggression.

Often, they will be standing sideways as a way to show how big they are and dissuade the other animal from coming after them.

If one cat is a clear aggressor and the other is defensive, the aggressor will tend to be larger and calmer, while the defender will be crouched, ears back, and more submissive, or at least ready to flee if they can.

Fur and tail. A cat in a legitimate fight is going to fluff up their fur and tail, again, as a way to make themselves look bigger.

Wild animals (and animals like our feline friends who are closely descended from wild animals) don't want to get into confrontations if they can avoid it for all the reasons I already listed.

One of the more reliable signs that an animal isn't something to fight is when they're larger, so cats fluff themselves up. They'll usually point their tails straight up, though they may be nervously lashing it side to side as well.

Facial expressions. Cats that are fighting are going to express it in their body language, and their facial expressions are a key part of that body language.

• Their eyes will be wide open with dilated pupils, keenly attuned to even the slightest twitch from the other feline. They'll have locked eye contact and may take any deviation or distraction as cause to attack in a moment of weakness. Incidentally, this is why the "slow blink" is a sign of comfort and familiarity from a cat and why staring at them is less likely to get them to come to you.
• Their ears will generally be laid back or flattened against the sides of their head. This serves two purposes. The first is that it's not a usual position for cat ears, so it can be a sign of "no really, this is serious" to the other cat. You can see this in flashes if, during play, one cat accidentally hurts the other. It's also defensive; since ears are vulnerable to catching a stray claw, flattening them down helps reduce the risk of injury.
• Their whiskers will be spread out and forward. This can be harder to see on some cats, but it serves as another way to react very quickly to incoming attack or aggression.
• Their mouths will likely be open and baring teeth, especially during the vocalizations.

Unless you're totally inexperienced with cats, you'll be able to tell pretty quickly when a cat is being legitimately aggressive because, most of the time, these won't be the kinds of expressions they'll have when they're around you.

The exception is if you're used to dealing with feral cats, in which case you'll be experienced enough to know what's going on.

Vocalizations. Cats that are in a stand-off especially are going to be making some very distressing noises at one another. They'll be growling in that low, moaning way that cats growl (it's not at all like a dog growl), and they'll hiss at one another.

There's no meowing here. If you've never heard a cat's "fightin' words" before, they can feel primally dangerous, even coming from something as small as a housecat.

Are Your Cats Playing?

Most of the time, if your cats are tussling with one another, they're playing. Even when that playing seems to get strangely violent, and the noises they make sound distressing, it's nowhere near what a real cat fight is like.

The truth is, cat playing can often feel a lot like fighting just because, in a way, it is fighting. Cats play-fight with each other as a way to "train" for fighting, to get used to physicality, and, yes, to establish some kind of pecking order.

Kittens tend to be a lot more "socially playful" when they're young. The older a cat gets, the less likely they are to engage in play with each other in the same way; instead, they'll be more focused on playing with toys and other objects.

This does vary from cat to cat, though; some are more socially playful well into their adult years or even into old age. This can be especially true with littermates who consistently play with each other, as well as when a cat parent is teaching her kittens how to be playful and where the limits are on violence.

What Are the Signs that Cats Are Playing?

Cats that are play fighting will be a lot more physically active, for a longer period of time, than if they were fighting. Again, cats don't like to fight if they can avoid it because injuries are serious business. Playing, though, they'll do that all day if they feel like it.

One of the key factors in play fighting is activity. Cats that are playing with each other will be a lot more active; they'll stalk one another, pounce, tussle, and flee, and repeat the process.

They wrestle, play bite at each other, swipe and bat at each other with their claws pulled back so they're not risking doing any damage, and can even roll around and expose their bellies.

Often, cats that are play fighting will take turns being the aggressor. One pounces on the other, they tussle and separate, then the other one does the pouncing.

Critically, they aren't going to be engaged in a tense stand-off. There's no sideways posture, no hair standing on end, no deep staring and growling.

In fact, cat vocalizations while they're playing are going to be fairly minimal. They might make little grunts and whines, but they won't growl or hiss. Sometimes, the only noises they make are those brief whines if their playmate goes a little too hard.

Other signs, like ear posture, will be brighter and happier. They won't be laid back or flat as in a real fight.

When it comes right down to it, you can usually assume that cats are playing with each other unless there's some very serious posturing and growling going on, or they draw blood, or there's another reason why they'd be aggressive toward one another.

Cats: Fighting or Playing FAQ

Now, let's go through a few common questions I know you're dying to ask.

Why do cats fight with each other?

Play fighting is socialization, but real fighting is much more serious. As such, the reasons behind those fights tend to be more serious as well.

They can include things like:

• Feral cats that aren't used to one another being forced together.
• Cats being introduced to each other for the first time, especially if one or both aren't well-socialized.
• Resource scarcity. Not necessarily even now, but if a cat has had to fight to defend a meal in the past, they'll be a lot more defensive of their resources.
• Territorial defense. Cats like to have a space that is "theirs," and if another cat, especially one they don't know, encroaches on that territory, a fight can ensue.

There are also some more obvious reasons, like a mother cat protecting her kittens when they're very young and defenseless. Sometimes cats can also get aggressive if they're sick, usually from something like a UTI.

Should you stop cats from fighting?

If you see two cats that are poised to fight (rather than play), you might want to intervene to keep them both safe and defuse the situation. You can do this, but only if you do it safely.

Do not intervene by stepping between them, putting a hand between them, or trying to grab at them. That can get you attacked, and then you're in for a trip to the ER to get some stitches and some shots.

Instead:

• Try a positive distraction. Cracking open a can of tuna, rustling a bag of treats, or flipping a toy around nearby might distract one or both cats and defuse the situation.
• Make a noise a bit away. Something like a ping-pong ball bouncing nearby, clapping from a distance away, or otherwise distracting them might work.
• Sliding a barrier between them, such as a wall of cardboard, can break their stare-down and get them to back off.

On the other hand, try not to resort to something like a spray bottle, a loud close noise like a can of coins, a clap right behind one of them, or trying to startle them. These can disrupt a fight, but they're stressful for the cats and can make it even harder to socialize them later.

Can you get cats to stop fighting each other?

Sometimes! One of the more common causes of aggression is introducing two cats to each other, and you can definitely socialize two cats through indirect introductions to build familiarity before letting them interact.

On the other hand, an older, poorly socialized, feral cat is going to be a lot harder to break from their habits.

Sometimes, cats just don't want to be in a place with other cats, and there's not much you can do about it but acquiesce to their wishes. Don't try to force it if you're just going to end up with accidents, injuries, and stressed felines.

Do you have any other questions about fighting or playing in cats? Let me know!

You might not know what it is, why it's done, or how it works, though. So, let's talk about it! There's a lot to know and a few myths I want to dispel, so I've got a lot to say.

What is Ear Tipping?

Ear tipping is the polite way of saying, "cutting off the tip of the ear of a cat."

It's used as a way to identify certain kinds of cats and to facilitate dealing with community cats and ferals that aren't otherwise going to be adopted or taken in.

Why Are Some Cats Ear-Tipped?

Ear tipping is a signal. It's a visible sign that a cat has been trapped, spayed or neutered, vaccinated, and released.

The unfortunate reality of life is that there are a lot more cats out there in the world than there are parents to love them.

Shelters are routinely full, people looking to adopt have more options than they could hope for, and those cats do what all animals in nature do: produce more cats.

In order to control the population of feral and community cats, many cities across the country and around the world have set up TNR programs. TNR stands for Trap, Neuter, Release (and some versions add in V for Vaccinate), and that's exactly what they do.

They set up traps where they know feral cats are taking shelter, usually baited with food. When the cat gets trapped, they're brought to a vet.

The vet will examine them, check them for diseases or injuries, and give them treatment as necessary. If they're in otherwise good health, they'll be vaccinated.

Then, the cat will be anesthetized and fixed. Whether it's a spay or a neuter, it helps control the number of feral cats trying to survive in a neighborhood.

The more ferals there are in a cat colony, the harder it is for them all to survive; food and water are harder to come by, fights can cause injuries and infections that lead to death, and diseases can spread more easily.

TNR programs help cut down both on the common causes of death for feral cats and on the number of feral cats trying and struggling to survive.

Keep in mind that this is mostly done with true ferals. Stray cats are generally a lot friendlier and can be rescued and adopted, while feral cats are very scared, standoffish, and a lot harder to even get close to, let alone interact with.

Most people don't have the time, inclination, or attitude necessary to try to socialize a feral cat, so they're usually left more to their own devices.

Back to ear tipping. When a cat is a participant in a TNR program, there needs to be some way to identify them.

After all, you don't want to waste resources bringing the same cat to the vet multiple times to get them looked after, right? It's better to spend those resources on more cats.

Since there aren't really any good ways to leave a permanent mark on a cat that is visible from a distance and can't be removed (so, no collars, no dyes, nothing like that), ear tipping is the best solution we have. I'll talk a bit more about alternatives and why we chose ear tipping later on in this post.

What Are the Benefits of Ear Tipping?

Ear tipping has two main benefits.

Ear-Tipping Benefit #1

The first is for TNR programs, animal control officers, well-meaning people, and vets. Tipping the ear of a cat is a visible indicator that the cat has been through a TNR process.

If the cat is spotted and called in later, and a professional investigates, they can find that the cat has been tipped.

There still might be valuable reasons to capture the cat. A feral that is preying on local chickens or other small livestock, for example, might need to be relocated so they aren't disruptive.

A feral that is getting into fights with local cats and other animals, too, might be up for relocation.

But, if the only concern is that the cat might be stray or feral and need attention, that's not much of a problem. Ear tipping tells you everything you need to know; the cat is already treated and isn't going to be any more of a problem than a single cat on their own can be.

Ear-Tipping Benefit #2

The second benefit is for the cat.

Being trapped, brought into a vet, and possibly anesthetized can all be very stressful for any animal.

For well-socialized pets and the occasional stray, it's a little easier to deal with. For a feral, which is likely already very fearful and distrustful of people, it's an immensely stressful time.

Anesthesia also can be very stressful and even potentially dangerous for an animal. So, the less a cat has to go through that process, the better.

Ear tipping is a visible way to prevent picking up and stressing out the same cat over and over. It's simple, easy, and useful.

Are There Drawbacks to Ear Tipping?

While the benefits are clear, are there any drawbacks to ear tipping?

Truthfully, not really. The only real drawback is that some people don't like the look of a cat with asymmetrical ears, but really, that's not a problem.

The cats getting ear-tipped are usually afraid enough of people that you're not going to interact with them very much, so it doesn't really matter what they look like.

Some people are afraid that ear tipping is painful, disfiguring, or changes the personality of a cat.

Fortunately, nothing can be further from the truth. Most cats don't really notice or care that they've been ear-tipped. They don't really have the same kind of self-image that people do, and a cosmetic change like an ear tip is just a tiny change to adapt to.

Does Ear Tipping Hurt?

Yes and no.

Technically, ear tipping hurts. Any damage to the flesh triggers pain receptors, and that means pain.

But honestly? It's no different than getting an ear pierced at your local mall's Claire's. The ear is fairly light on pain receptors and nerves, especially in cats, where it's one of the more injury-prone parts of a cat. Catfights can leave ears damaged, after all.

More importantly, though, cats are never ear-tipped while they're awake. Since they're being anesthetized for the spay or neuter surgery, the ear tipping is done at the same time.

The cat won't feel a thing when their ear is tipped. For real, the recovery from the surgery is going to be more painful than the ear tipping, and even that is relatively minor. Cats can spring back pretty easily from a lot of injuries.

So, while it's technically true that ear tipping would cause pain, the cat in question isn't going to be awake for it, and it will heal quickly enough that they'll never feel it.

Are Cats Bothered by Ear Tipping?

Not at all.

Have you ever seen one of those videos of a cat with paralyzed back legs just dragging them around, or one missing a front leg that has no trouble running and playing, or a cat with no eyes that can still explore, jump onto furniture, and enjoy a good scritch? An ear tip is nothing compared to those, and cats can adapt to those life-changing injuries in no time.

It's kind of questionable whether or not a cat even notices that they've been ear-tipped. Yeah, the tip of their ear is missing, but it's not like that tip is used for much of anything.

Enough of the ear is still there that they can do all of their ear-based body language just fine. They don't have self-esteem that would be bothered by it, and they aren't exactly looking themselves over in the mirror before they go about their day.

Does Ear Tipping Affect Hearing?

Cats can go deaf, but there's no evidence to suggest that cat hearing is affected by ear tipping.

Maybe there's a tiny loss of acuity for very precise hearing, but it really doesn't seem likely. No real formal studies have been done, but it's not going to cause hearing loss, make them more susceptible to infections, or anything like that.

Ear-tipped cats still live long and full lives just as much as any other community cat, and ear-tipping doesn't impact that quality of life.

In fact, ear-tipped cats live better lives because of the vaccinations and medical care they're given; they're less prone to illness and disease that can cause long-term issues.

Is Ear Tipping an Infection Risk?

Only very slightly. Any injury, no matter how small, is a potential vector for infection. Even flea bites can cause an infection.

Ear tipping is a very small, superficial injury, though, and it's always healed before the cat is released back into the wild.

The chances of a cat being tangibly harmed from an ear-tipping procedure are pretty much zero.

What Should You Do if You Find an Ear-Tipped Cat?

What do you want to do?

I like to say hi, make a few pspspspsps noises, maybe refill their food or water dishes while I'm at it.

They don't usually pay much attention to me, and stay pretty wary and distant, so I'm not going to get any good headbutts or kneading going.

Ear tipping is almost always done for feral cats, and feral cats usually want pretty much nothing to do with you.

You'll only even notice that they're tipped if you're paying attention and know what to look for.

The exception, of course, is if the cat is in obvious distress. If they've been injured in a fight or hit by a car, if they're clearly sick and weak or emaciated, or if they're otherwise in a bad way, you can try to trap them and bring them to a vet for treatment.

For normal, healthy community cats that have been ear-tipped, just interact with them as you would any other cat.

There's not much else you can do. Just be cautious; don't try to push their boundaries, or you risk being swiped at and clawed up.

Should You Tip Your Cat's Ears?

No.

Ear tipping is, again, an indication of ferals and stray community cats. It's not something you do to your beloved pets and feline companions.

If you've seen someone who has a pet cat and that cat has a tipped ear, it's more likely that they adopted and socialized a feral cat than that they tipped the ear of a cat they adopted otherwise.

Are There Alternatives to Ear Tipping?

There are a few.

One is ear-notching. Ear tipping involves cutting off the top quarter inch of the cat's ear so it's visibly different than a whole ear.

Ear notching is smaller and is more like a little V cut out of the ear. Notching was also common, but it's hard to tell between a notched ear and a cat that had their ear clawed or bitten in a fight, so it's less reliable as an indicator.

It's also harder to see from a distance, so skittish cats might be trapped more often because of it.

Some people use things like chips to identify feral cats, but these also don't provide the same kinds of benefits.

A chip needs to be scanned, which means the cat needs to be trapped, and then you've already wasted the time and effort, removing the benefit of tipping.

In some areas, tags are used. Tags are visible, but they're bulky and can disrupt a cat's life more than a tipping.

They can also get caught on things or get snagged in a catfight and can be ripped out, causing pain, a possible infection risk, and removing the identification. They aren't very good.

Pretty much any method of identifying a feral that has been through TNR is less effective or less beneficial than ear tipping, which is why we use it. Until something better comes along, it's what we've got.

Want to know anything else about ear tipping? Have a question I didn't answer? If so, let me know!

What are Cat Years?

The idea of cat years is a way to balance the scale and think about our furry friends in their own context.

If you assume, for example, that a human lives to be about 80 years old, and you know that cats live to be about an average of 15 years old, you can create a scale. If you then divide up 1-15 into 80 individual segments, you can calculate how many "years" old a cat would be in human years.

A cat aged 15 years old would be the equivalent of 80 years old "in cat years," and so on.

The reality, though, is that this kind of scale doesn't actually work. Human development is initially slower, and cat development moves in leaps and bounds throughout their early life.

That means a cat that is only a month old can be in the 1-2 "cat years" old stage, and by the time they reach their first birthday, they're actually the human equivalent of about 15. By the time a cat is four years old, they're the human equivalent of 32 years old. But this isn't a linear scale. It's a little more complex than that.

How are Cat Years Calculated?

Cat years are calculated by taking their age in real years and adding some amount, plus the next year plus a number, and so on. It's kind of tricky, so most of the time, people present it as a chart.

As you can see, the age is somewhat frontloaded here; a kitten develops from the equivalent of a human newborn, to a human baby, to a toddler, to a grade-schooler, to a pre-teen, all in the first year or so of their life. After that, development slows down; they reach their adult stage and simply age as gracefully as they can. These cat life stages are something I go into in greater detail here.

You might notice that the numbers added to each stage alternate once they reach three real-life years old. This isn't really necessary; you can just add 4.5 each time instead of alternating 4 and 5. There are also other charts that estimate this differently, and use 3.5 instead or alternate between +3 and +4.

I've also seen estimates that cats age fifteen cat years in their first year, seven years in each of their next two years, and then four years for every following year.

All of this makes it pretty clear that cat years are made up. When all of the major pet resources have authoritative guides on cat year calculations, and they all have different calculations, it's pretty clear that it's not actually that important to get it all right.

Does this really matter? Not really. The truth is, cat years are mostly a made up fiction for we people to compare our kitties to, to say "look at my old man" while we pet our dozy and snuggly old boy while he naps in a sunbeam.

How Long is a Cat Year?

It varies! Cat years are basically just made up, though. So, there are a few different answers to this question.

The simple answer is that a cat year is the same as a human year. Cats don't experience the seasons any faster than we do, and 365 sundowns and sunrises make a year, no matter what species you are.

Another simple answer is that a cat year is around 4-5 human years, equivalent. Or maybe it's better phrased the other way around: a human year is the time it takes a cat to age 4-5 cat years.

When you factor in the table above, it's even more different. The first cat year is the most action-packed of all of them and crams in 15 years of development. The second is a much slower pace and is only a decade. After that, it settles into a rhythm of averages of four or five years each year.

While it's fun to calculate and think about, it's not really useful to think about cat years.

Are Cat Years Real?

Yes and no.

Cat years are as real as any other concept in human experience. We decided that a cat year has some meaning, and so cat years have some meaning, at least to us.

Our cats? They don't care. They take each day as it comes, they don't know, care, or celebrate birthdays, and the only attachment they have to time is their internal clocks telling them when it's time to be fed.

Woe betide you if it's daylight savings time and you set your clocks an hour different and you haven't adjusted feeding time to match.

Cat years can be "real" in that they give you some sort of expectation of the kinds of health concerns to anticipate for your cat. A cat reaching 12 years old might not sound that old from human experience, but they're well into their golden years as far as cat years are concerned, so you'd want to be watching for those signs of old age. Knowing if you should be watching for the signs of kitty dementia, for example, can be important.

Then again, if you're taking your feline companion to the vet for regular checkups, you don't really need a cat year calculation for that; they'll keep you apprised of what you should be watching for and what you should anticipate.

What Affects a Cat's Aging?

One of the biggest problems with cat years is that it's not really reflective of anything in reality. The truth is, a lot of different things can impact how long a cat lives and how long they maintain their youthful attitudes and energy levels.

Your cat's breed. The breed of cat can be impactful. Often, the more purebred the cat breed, the shorter the lifespan. Cats with some amount of wildcat in them can live longer. Larger cats can often live longer, though that's not always true. "Mutt" cats, like plain old everyday domestic shorthairs, are generally on the longer side of average.

The breed is also important because some breeds have genetic issues that mean they can be predisposed to certain diseases, especially in old age, that can lead to organ failure and an earlier passing.

Their weight. Obese cats have much shorter lifespans than cats in a healthy weight range. Obesity is a problem in cats, in people, and even in wild animals, and it's not an easy problem to solve. Weight maintenance is very important for the long-term health of your cat, and the longer they go in an overweight state, the more likely they are to develop problems related to it, including pancreas issues, diabetes, arthritis, and more.

Underweight cats also have shorter lifespans due to malnutrition, and they often have a harder time fighting off parasites and infections. Feeding cats properly is tricky but important!

Indoor versus outdoor living. Cats that spend all their time outdoors are, unfortunately, much more likely to die earlier. There are a ton of reasons for this: exposure to the elements, fights with wild animals and other cats, greater exposure to illness and parasites, less ability to be treated, less consistent food and water, less clean water, encounters with cars, encounters with evil people; the list goes on and on and on.

There's a reason there's a huge push these days to keep cats inside and to catch-fix-release strays and ferals to reduce the overall outdoor population. It's not good for local wildlife, it's not good for the cats, and it's not good for the people who have to deal with the repercussions of it all.

Food quality. Another factor in lifespan is simple food quality. The better quality the food – that is, the less filler in particular – the better off a cat will be. A balanced diet can be tricky and expensive to maintain, but the worse the food is, the harder it is to keep a cat going without running into obesity or other health issues. This is also another reason why keeping cats indoors is important; you can more easily control what they eat.

Checkups and treatments. Cats with regular veterinary care are going to live longer than cats without it. Whether this means keeping an eye on teeth, getting prescriptions for illnesses, diagnosing allergies and food sensitivities, or taking care of parasites, it's all part of the process.

Parasite exposure. Parasites might seem like they're something you can treat and get rid of, but the aftereffects can linger. Cats that get parasites might be at higher risk of developing long-term illnesses, including cancer, because of it. Even when the parasite is gone, the damage is not, and it can manifest years later.

How Can You Tell a Cat's Life Stage?

A cat's stage of life is fairly easy to evaluate. Are they young, small, and lanky? They're a kitten. Are they full-size but still relatively energetic? They're an adult. Are they full-size but sleepier? They're probably a senior.

You can read my guide to cat life stages for more detail.

For that matter, vets don't necessarily go by pure time for a cat's life stage. They can evaluate the overall status of a cat based on other factors as well. These can include:

• Size
• Weight
• Oral health
• Eye health
• Ear health
• Bodily condition
• Behavior
• Blood work results
• Physical examination results

All of these can help a vet determine how old the cat is, and give you some idea of how old they are in terms of lifespan. This can be useful if you're picking up a stray cat and considering adopting it; you might want to know about how old it is and how long it has left before you make specific long-term life plans.

You can tell the rough age of a cat by their teeth, too. Kittens get their first teeth in the first 2-4 weeks of life. Their baby teeth come in sharp and strong, but they only have 26 of them. When they get a little older, around 4-6 months, they'll start to lose those kitten teeth, and their adult teeth will grow in. They'll have 30 adult teeth. Senior cats, of course, might have lost some teeth over time, but you'll be able to tell whether or not a cat is a senior by other means.

You can also often tell that a cat is getting on in years when their fur coat starts to get some gray hairs to it, and it ends up a little more raggedy and a little less well-groomed. Older cats might not groom themselves as much, or they might focus more on certain areas and forget about others, so they can look a little scruffy.

What's the Best Cat Year?

All of them!

Whether you calculate your kitty's years in cat years or human years, the important part is to spend each and every one of those years caring for, playing with, loving, and enjoying your feline companion. For you, they may not be more than a decade of your life; for them, you are there with them their whole life. A good and bonded cat will love you with the whole of their being, and you can love them back just as strongly, no matter what timeline you use to calculate their age.

So, here we are at the end of this article! Do you have any questions about anything I mentioned in this article, or would you like any additional clarification on a specific part? If so, I'm always more than happy to help you out however I can. Just leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you with a reply as soon as I can!

For longer trips, though, cats need to be cared for. You might be able to leave your fur baby with a friend or family member for a few weeks or months while you travel, but sometimes, that option just isn't available. If you're going abroad for a significant length of time – teaching ESL in another country, moving for a job, caring for family in another nation for an extended time, or whatever other reason brings you across the border – you may want to figure out how to bring your cat.

If you're looking for the same sort of information but for your dog instead, check out this guide I wrote. While a lot of the information is the same across both of these, there are some unique peculiarities between species you'll want to know.

Can You Travel Internationally with Your Cat?

This is a surprisingly tricky question to answer. The fact is, every country in the world is able to set its own rules and laws. Some of them don't let you travel to them at all, some prohibit bringing pets of any sort into the country, some have restrictions on the types and breeds of pets you can bring in, and some are completely open to any companion you're taking with you.

It's also important to keep in mind that coming back to the USA has its own requirements. Most of the time, if you have everything you need to travel out of the country, you'll have everything you need to come back, but you should still take the time to double-check before your return trip.

Can You Travel to Another Country with a FIV+ Cat?

FIV, or feline immunodeficiency virus, is generally more well-controlled than some other pet-borne diseases like rabies. As such, most countries don't restrict cats with FIV. You'll need to have an appropriate health certificate, vaccination records, and possibly lab test results, but you won't be outright prohibited, at least as far as I know. If you know of a country that does prohibit FIV+ cats, let me know in the comments!

One thing to keep in mind, though, is that FIV makes your cat more susceptible to infections and diseases, and when you travel, you risk picking up something that isn't local to you (obviously). The stress of a flight, the need to be shipped along with other animals, and the new germ profile of wherever you land might put your fur baby at risk. It's often a good idea to find a place for your FIV+ kitty to live back home while you travel, as much as you might want to bring them with you.

How Do You Find the Rules for International Travel with a Cat?

Every country is allowed to set its own rules for importing pets, which means you need to be able to find those rules so you can follow them. For example, you may need a valid international pet health certificate, you may need to apply to bring your cat with you in advance, and there may be specific limitations on certain kinds of pets. With cats, you're probably fine as far as breed restrictions go, though you may have issues if you have an exotic breed like a serval, caracal, or other larger semi-wild cat breeds. Dogs tend to have more breed-based travel restrictions than cats.

There are a few ways you can find the information necessary to travel with your cat to another country. One of the easiest is to find that country's embassy information. Most countries have a foreign embassy in Washington D.C. and have information on contacting them that is publicly available on this page. By calling, emailing, or otherwise reaching out to them, you can learn their restrictions on pets.

Another option is to visit the USDA's Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service page, which lists various countries and their pet travel requirements. There are also frequently websites for those individual country governments you can check as well.

What if you're traveling to multiple countries in a single trip?

If you plan to, for example, fly into a country in Southeast Asia and then travel throughout the region from country to country, staying in different places for just a month or two at a time, then you'll have to contend with a wide range of different regulations.

If you're traveling to one country and back, you only need to know that country's restrictions. If you're traveling between foreign nations before returning home, you'll need to know the restrictions on each nation. You don't want to get halfway through a trip and find one particular country that prohibits your cat from entering, right?

Sometimes, this is easy. The European Union largely has one set of codified rules for most of its member nations. Other countries stipulate their own rules, and it can be a mess to deal with. You also might have different restrictions depending on whether you're driving across the borders with your cat or flying internationally with your cat.

What Information and Supplies Do You Need to Travel Internationally with Your Cat?

There's a lot you'll need before you can travel to another country with your cat.

Get a USDA-Endorsed pet health certificate.

A pet health certificate is just a piece of paperwork that says your pet is in good health and is up to date on their vaccinations. Most of the time, your vet can give you this certificate quickly and easily.

A USDA-endorsed pet health certificate is a little more complicated. It's the same paperwork, but you can only get it from a USDA-endorsed veterinarian. It generally costs a fee to get your certificate endorsed. This certificate is frequently required as an internationally-recognized standard for validation.

Obviously, your cat needs to be in good health and updated on their vaccinations in order to get this certificate. The last thing you want is to commit an international crime by lying about your cat's health! Rabies vaccinations are extra important in particular, so make sure your cat is boosted as necessary before you travel.

The USDA has a whole page dedicated to this paperwork and an office you can call to ask any questions you may have, so check it out here.

Some places have alternative options you can investigate. For example, the EU has a Pet Passport system. It's rather similar to the USDA health certificate but is broadly recognized and available throughout the EU. If your trip involves numerous EU countries, getting one of these pet passports might be a good idea.

Get an ISO-certified microchip.

The International Organization for Standardization is the global organization responsible for setting standards for all sorts of things, including technology. Two standards – ISO 11784 and ISO 11785 – are relevant to microchips for pets. They outline things like how the chip needs to be made, and what kind of data, in what formats, it should contain.

You don't need to know what the standards are, but you probably do need to make sure your cat has an ISO-certified microchip. That way, if the worst happens and your fur baby escapes while you're traveling, local vets can scan for a valid chip with information they can read and can find you. Obviously, make sure it has relevant information on it that the vet can use to contact you.

There are a lot of quirks to how microchip numbers and standards are handled, and what databases they connect to, so you might want to familiarize yourself with them, or at least the type and brand of chip your cat has, before you travel.

Check applications, approvals, and timelines.

Some countries essentially let you bring a cat along and just review your documentation at customs. Others require advance approval and an application process you need to have submitted well in advance. This process can take months, so make sure you do your research well in advance of when you're planning to bring your cat to the country with you and have all of your paperwork squared away.

Are There Other Details to Know About Traveling Internationally with Your Cat?

Of course. There will always be more details, so I'll cover everything I can to try to help you travel more smoothly.

Make sure to scout your accommodations ahead of time. With dogs, you have to worry about things like dog parks nearby, how dog-friendly the local establishments are, and so on. Cats don't have the same needs, but you do need to make sure any place you're staying, for short term or long term, allows your cat. You don't want to show up at a hotel, condo, or apartment only to find your cat isn't allowed, right?

Have your accessories ready to go. There's a lot you might want to make sure you have to make travel a smoother experience.

• A sturdy, breathable carrier for your cat while they're being moved throughout airports, planes, and accommodations.
• A collar that is easy to remove for airport security if necessary and reliable enough to stay in place around an anxious kitty.
• A harness, for times when your cat needs to be out of the carrier but still controlled. Make sure you spend some time getting them used to it in advance!
• Folding or collapsible bowls for food and water. Especially for very long flights, you'll probably need to give your fur baby some nourishment.
• A portable litter box and sealable bags. You may not be able to dispose of your cat's waste on a plane, so some backup to secure it without making the flight unpleasant for everyone is a good idea.

Consider the availability of food and medicine. This is especially relevant if your cat is on a special diet for health reasons; you may not be able to find the right kinds of foods or even certain medications where you're traveling. Unfortunately, some places around the world don't give as much consideration or care to cats. You might also want to make sure you have a vet lined up in advance in case something happens. You want to know where to go in an emergency, after all.

Pay attention to the flight planning itself. I have a whole guide on flying with a cat, so check that out and plan ahead. Chances are, if your cat is too big, if you have more than one cat, or if you're on certain airlines, you may not be allowed to bring your cat with you in the cabin, and they may need to fly cargo. Make sure you're planning ahead!

One detail is that some vets might recommend anxiety medications before a flight, especially if it's a longer flight. However, some airlines might prohibit sedating or medicating a pet before a flight because it can become a health risk. Double-check the details.

Give them plenty of time to acclimate to their new environs. Cats are creatures of routine, habit, and stability. Once you arrive at your destination, they will probably find the smallest, darkest space they can to hide in for a while until they feel more comfortable. It can take them days or even weeks to get used to their new home, so make sure to give them that space and time.

If all goes well, you'll have a comforting friend in a new living situation, and you'll only need to repeat the process when you return. Hopefully, all goes well for you! If you have additional advice or perspective, or if you have questions I missed, let me know in the comments as well.

What is the average lifespan for a domestic house cat? What factors influence it, and what can you expect?

The Broad Answer

First, let's start with the broadest answer.

The average lifespan for a domesticated house cat is 13-17 years.

If you adopt a newborn kitten around the same time you have a human child, they'll grow up together, and the cat will likely pass away sometime in their teenage years. This might be early and will probably be one of their earliest experiences with a significant loss, or it might be later when they're getting ready to move out of the house and onto college or a career.

While 13-17 years is a fairly broad range, it also doesn't tell the whole story.

What's the Longest a Cat Can Live?

With immaculate genetics, consistent vet care, and a little luck, a cat can live quite a bit longer than what the average implies.

The oldest cat on record, and current holder of the world record, was a cat named Crème Puff. Crème Puff was born in 1967 and died in 2005, making her 38 years old when she died. That's over twice the average! What helped Crème Puff live so long? Likely a combination of care, activity, and genetics.

Crème Puff is an outlier, of course; her exceptional lifespan is something to be envied and enjoyed, and not something to base your own expectations on. Most cats won't make it nearly that long; a cat living to be 20 is already exceptional in a lot of cases.

Is There a Difference Between Indoor and Outdoor Cats?

This is a big one. You may have heard that cats should be kept indoors for a bunch of different reasons, and one of the big ones is that indoor cats just plain live longer.

That's true.

Outdoor cats, left unsupervised, live half as long: 7-9 years.

Now, that's for feral cats that are born, raised, and left to their own devices to scrounge for whatever food they can catch, suffer whatever illnesses they develop, heal (or don't) from injuries they receive, and generally have no one to care for them.

Unfortunately, even cared-for outdoor cats can have shorter lifespans for a bunch of different reasons.

• Catching diseases and parasites from the outdoors, even when a vet treats them, puts stress on the body, can damage organs, and can lead to other problems down the line.
• Spending time outdoors can lead to conflicts with other animals, including other cats, dogs, coyotes, other predators, and native wildlife, all of which can lead to injuries.
• Cats outdoors don't have the kind of supervision over their behavior or diets they have indoors, and they can eat something that has been poisoned or is toxic to them.
• In areas where summers are extremely hot and winters extremely cold, the weather can be a significant factor as well.
• Cars are an omnipresent danger, and thousands of cats are killed by vehicles every year.
• In rare and unfortunate cases, cat-hating people in your community might abuse or kill your fur baby.

Even a cat that stays away from roads, gets lucky with other animals, and doesn't eat anything toxic can still be exposed to allergens, pollution, and parasites, all of which cause problems that don't just hurt in the now; they shorten the future as well.

Outdoor cats that are cared for but are still left to their own devices – such as cats that have shelter in a barn or garage but aren't let inside or cats that can come and go as they please but still spend some nights outdoors – will naturally live somewhere in between the two averages.

Do Different Breeds of Cat Live Different Lengths of Time?

Since genetics play a pretty big role in aging, the answer here is also yes. Some cats live longer than average, and some live shorter amounts of time; these "breed averages" can still vary, but you can expect to adjust your planning either upwards or downwards depending on the cat you're adopting.

Breed Average Lifespans:

• Abyssinian: 9-15 years
• Devon Rex: 9-15 years
• Javanese: 10-15 years
• LaPerm: 10-15 years
• Cornish Rex: 11-15 years
• Siberian: 11-15 years
• Bengal: 12-16 years
• Birman: 12-16 years
• Maine Coon: 12-15 years
• Munchkin: 12-14 years
• Ragdoll: 12-17 years
• Sphynx: 13-15 years
• Norwegian Forest Cat: 14-16 years
• American Shorthair: 15-20 years
• Siamese: 15-20 years
• Burmese: 16-18 years
• Balinese: 18-22 years

Additionally, most of the time, a purebred cat is going to have a shorter lifespan than a "mutt" cat, as more diverse genetics tend to lead to more resiliency against various ailments. Some breeds are susceptible to things like kidney problems and other issues over time, and larger breeds are often (though not always) shorter-lived because of those inherent traits.

Again, breed is only one factor in the lifespan of a cat, and while it can be an important one, it's far from the only factor in play.

Do Different Colors of Cat Live Different Lengths of Time?

While you might scoff and say "no" to this out of hand, if you think about it, is there something to it? Do orange cats pass quicker when they don't have control of the brain cell? Do black cats suffer from bad luck?

Honestly, the biggest reason I bring this up is simply because I've seen many people ask about tabbies. Tabby cats have the same lifespan as their breed because tabby is just a coloration and pattern, not a breed.

In general, no, different colors of cat don't live different lengths of time. The color of the coat, in some cases, can indicate a particular genetic ancestry, though – such as seal point or color point being more typical of purebred cats – but for the most part, it's all the same cat underneath.

One potential exception to this is black cats if they're outdoor cats, and only because there are terrible people who are superstitious about them and do terrible things to them. Even if you have an outdoor cat, if they're a black cat, bring them in around Halloween please.

What Factors Affect the Lifespan of a Cat?

If you're worried about how long your fur baby will be with you, and you want to do everything you can to make sure they live a long and happy life with you, what factors should you consider? It's pretty much all that you would expect.

Maintaining a Healthy Diet. A proper diet is probably one of the most important things you can do to keep your cat going for as long as possible. A good diet means three things.

• A diet that is low on unnecessary fillers you commonly find in cheaper foods.
• A diet that is focused on the nutrients and vitamins a cat needs – primarily meat.
• A diet that adapts to changing health and keeps things like allergies and hormones in consideration.

You can't pick a food and stick with it indefinitely. Kittens need different nutrients in different amounts than adult or senior cats. Cats with thyroid or kidney issues need special diets. There are all sorts of different ways you may need to adjust your cat's diet over time to make sure they get what they need without the things they don't.

Maintaining a Healthy Weight. Cats have a range of weights they should be in depending on their age, breed, and size. If your cat is underweight, they may be ill and not eating, and they should be seen by a vet right away. If they're overweight, they can develop issues like diabetes, organ damage, and other problems that, even once you address them and bring your cat back to a healthy weight, will tend to linger.

Keeping to a Healthy Activity Level. The healthiest and longest-lived cats tend to be cats that have plenty of stimulation and enriching activities in their homes. They run, they jump, they play. You want to help engage their hunting instincts in a safe and controlled way. The exercise keeps them healthy, the stimulation keeps them from developing anxiety or other cognitive issues, and it all helps you bond more closely with your feline friend.

Keeping Away from Sources of Danger. Partly, this comes back to keeping your cats inside, where they aren't going to run into predators, vehicles, or other issues. Inside, though, it also means keeping certain areas (like attics or crawl spaces) closed off, keeping dangerous houseplants out of their reach or out of the house entirely, keeping toxic chemicals and dangerous foods locked up, and so on. The fewer threats to life and limb that you have lying around, the better the environment will be for your fur baby.

Getting Swift Veterinary Care When Necessary. Sooner or later, something will happen to your cat. Maybe they get sick, maybe they catch something, maybe they pick up parasites from a mouse that gets into the house, who knows. They might also develop tumors or other mysterious lumps just from genetics, age, or stray cosmic rays. Knowing when to bring your fur baby to the vet and have them looked after is critical for their long-term health.

I'm not saying you need to rush them to the emergency vet at the first sign of anything going wrong. That would be expensive and unnecessary. Instead, just make sure you keep an eye on them, notice changes outside of the norm, and address them as necessary.

Minimizing Unnecessary Sources of Stress. Stress and anxiety can do serious long-term damage in ways you never notice. Stress builds up the stress hormone cortisol, which causes further damage and stress to the bodily systems of anything – person or animal – who experiences it. Keeping stress down is critical for long-term health.

What Are the Signs of Aging in Cats?

How do cats progress as they get older? Other than getting larger, more active, and then less active, and eventually slowing down, there are a lot of little things that happen as your fur baby ages.

• Their immune systems get weaker, and they can become more susceptible to diseases.
• Their skin can grow thinner and more fragile, and they can develop rashes or infections more easily.
• They may lose the attention or focus to groom themselves and may not groom themselves well, thoroughly, or consistently.
• They may start to develop issues with controlling their bladder or bowels and might miss the litter box.
• They can lose their sense of hearing and their eyesight, partially or totally.
• They can develop dental disease, may need to have teeth pulled, and may need to switch to a softer diet because they have trouble chewing.
• They can develop feline arthritis and other joint issues, which reduces their mobility and makes it harder for them to jump around, move, or be active.
• They may develop kidney issues that need to be monitored over time.
• They can develop tumors, cancers, and other issues that can require surgery or advanced treatment to address.

Older cats tend to be slower, more lethargic, and more content to just spend time with you, sleeping near you or with you, and just enjoying cozy, warm spots. The rambunctious days of their youth are behind them, and trust me; they appreciate every moment of their life with you.

It's always a heartbreaking event to have to put down a beloved feline friend, but sooner or later – unless they pass happily in their sleep – they will probably need the intervention. When quality of life is no longer possible, it's better to let them have a comfortable way out than to drag them along in pain for your own comfort.

Fortunately, there are many resources available to help you through the loss of a beloved pet. Groups like Lap of Love, the Association for Pet Loss and Bereavement, and even the country's mental health services can all help you out.

Just remember; they may be just a part of your life, but you are there for the whole of their life, and that's worth something.

Now that we're at the end of this article, I'd love to hear from you, the readers! How old is your feline friend? Do you have any favorite stories about them? Be sure to share them in the comments section down below! I absolutely love hearing about all your fur babies.

Maybe your only experience with nail biting is the phrase and the use of exaggerated nail biting in cartoons. Maybe you even nibble them yourself.

You may have thoughts, feelings, and connotations about nail biting in your mind, and that can trigger some anxiety when you see your kitty doing the same thing.

Nail biting is common in cats. The question is, is it harmful? Let's talk about it!

What is Nail Biting, Chewing, and Pulling?

Cats do a lot to groom themselves and keep themselves tidy. Their adorable brush-like tongues comb through their fur, their curved claws scratch those hard-to-reach itches all over their bodies, and their teeth nibble at mats, things caught in fur, and anything else that needs a little bit of picking at.

Nail biting and chewing are just part of this routine. It happens when your fur baby uses their teeth to catch and pull at their nails, often while they're busy licking at their paws and cleaning in between their toes. Gotta keep those beans clean!

So why does this come across as a cause for concern? Two reasons, basically.

The first is that from a sheer physical perspective, it just seems so violent! Your fur baby is picking at, pulling, chewing, and biting their claws, and those tugs can be loud when they pop. How can something that looks and sounds like that not be painful or dangerous?

The second is the human condition. We people don't generally chew or bite our nails, particularly not as part of self-care and grooming.

But we do perform nail care, from clipping them to cleaning under and around them to full-on manicures. Cats just don't have access to any of those things, at least not of their own volition. They make do with what they have.

Why Cats Bite Their Nails

So why do cats bite and pull at their nails? There are a bunch of possible reasons.

The biggest reason is plain old grooming. Cat claws are pretty much constantly in contact with some kind of surface, and even indoors, there's a good chance there's dirt and debris around that they get into. As their claws wear down, they can crack and split, and dirt can get into them. It's a lot like when you have dirt or grime under your own nails; you want to clean it out, right? And you might use the little tools designed for the purpose – just called nail cleaners – but your fur baby can't do that. Not only do they not have tools or thumbs to use them, but their claws are shaped differently.

So, there's a decent chance your fur baby has dirt in their nails, and they just want to clean them out. Normally, licking will do the job well enough, but for stubborn dirt or little bits of debris stuck to their claws, they might need to use a bit more force.

Beyond just cleaning, it's also important to know how cat nails work in the first place.

For us, when our nails grow, they push outwards from the cuticle. It's a lot like hair in a way, in that it grows from the root, though, of course, our nails don't periodically fall out and start over the way hair does.

Cat claws kind of do the same thing, but they don't grow from the toe outwards, but from the quick outwards. It's a lot like rings in a tree: newer layers of claw growing up from the middle of the nail, hardening as they grow further out, and becoming the sharp, tough shell our fur babies use to scratch and scrape and climb.

Well, as new layers grow up in the middle, older layers on the outside need to be shed. Cats scratching at furniture, trees, scratching posts, doorframes, and other objects both mark their territory and shed those outer layers of claw. This is also why, when your cat is biting their nails, sometimes you find fragments of nails left behind when they're done. This is especially common if part of the nail chips away or breaks, leaving a rough hangnail that bothers them.

This isn't "ripping out their nails"; it's just the feline equivalent of giving their nails a trim. The whole process is like a fuzzy little manicure.

It's also possible that, while it looks like your fur baby is biting their nails, that's not actually the case. They might be chewing at the area between their toes or even using their claws to pick at something caught in their teeth. Regardless, though, it's all going back to one thing: grooming. It's perfectly natural and fine to let it happen.

When is Nail Chewing Abnormal?

Like everything else in this world, moderation is key. Most of the time, if your cat is chewing and biting their nails, it's perfectly fine. In fact, the fact that they're even willing to do their grooming in front of you is a show of trust; some cats prefer to hide away in a comfortable spot to do that grooming, and you might never see it.

Sometimes, though, nail biting can get excessive and cause problems or be a sign of other problems. What are those other problems? What can cause excess nail biting?

A toe or nail injury is one of the most common reasons why your cat might be excessively biting or chewing at their nails. A broken claw, for example, is a common cause. If a claw breaks, it can be sensitive and even painful, and licking, biting, and chewing can be a soothing behavior to alleviate or control that pain. It's also a way to keep a broken nail clean to help avoid infection, though, of course, our fur babies don't have the cleanest mouths, and it's still not exactly sterile.

Similarly, toe injuries like cuts, scrapes, or punctures can be painful and irritating, and they may be chewing and licking at their feet to try to soothe those injuries. If you notice your fur baby is chewing their nails but they're also bleeding, that can be a sign that something is wrong.

A related issue is if you or a groomer were trying to trim their nails and did it wrong. Too short nails can expose the sensitive inner core of the nail itself, including the quick, which leads to bleeding, pain (because of the nerve in the nail), and irritation. Your fur baby will probably lick and chew at them to make them feel better and ease that pain.

The opposite issue – nails that grow too long – can lead to the same sort of behavior. Usually, your cat will have ways to keep their nails shorter, usually through scratching things like wooden surfaces like they might find on furniture and doorframes or floors. If they can't do that, they might turn to chewing as a way to help shed a layer or three of nail to make it more comfortable to walk. Overgrown and ingrown nails are a problem with cats that are passively neglected and aren't capable of caring for their own nails.

Along the same lines, an infection can lead to excessive chewing and licking. Infections are irritating and painful, and they cause swelling, and all of this is something your fur baby wants to deal with but doesn't have the tools to handle. Until our feline friends invent their own version of modern pharmaceuticals, they'll just have to be content with licking and picking until we notice and bring them to a vet for a checkup.

Finally, there's a whole category of mental and cognitive issues that can lead to nail biting and picking. This is actually a lot like how it occurs in humans; nail biting is a stimulating activity that can occupy the mind and soothe the body despite being broadly detrimental if it's done in excess. Things that can cause it include:

• Boredom. Cats that have nothing to do, no one to play with, and no trouble to get into are going to need some source of stimulation, and nail biting may be one that they turn to. This can be especially reinforced if, when you notice it, you give them attention; it teaches them that they can get attention from nail biting.
• Anxiety. All sorts of negative and compulsive behaviors can crop up in our beloved fur babies when some major life change happens, including moving houses (or just a major rearranging of the furniture), an injury or illness, the loss of a partner animal or a roommate; just about any major change, really. Cats are creatures of habit, and when those habits are disturbed, they can resort to more primal and less comfortable behaviors, including nail biting.
• Stress and frustration. An example from Dr. Nicolas Dodman is that something as simple as a squirrel or bird that likes to sit outside your window and taunt your cat can be a source of frustration; it's right there, priming their hunting instincts, but they can't do anything about it. That frustration needs to be let out somehow, and nail biting can be one way they get that stress relief.

With all that in mind, then, you have two more questions: how can you tell when nail biting is abnormal, and how can you stop it?

Is My Cat's Nail Biting Bad?

Truthfully, most of the time, you'll be able to tell if your cat is biting their nails to an excessive degree. You might notice that it's particularly violent or happens seemingly constantly and that their nails are short, bleeding, broken, or otherwise damaged.

If you're concerned, you can schedule a vet trip, but this is definitely not emergency vet territory unless there are signs of an injury or infection. If your fur baby's toes are swollen, leaking pus, or bleeding, then you will want a more urgent vet trip.

How to Minimize Cat Nail Biting

First of all, if you think your cat is biting their nails excessively, consult with your vet. They can advise you as to whether or not it's likely to be a medical issue that could require medication to treat, like an injury or an infection.

Secondly, if your cat is biting their nails but it's not excessive or compulsive, it's generally not a problem. Normal nail biting is just part of grooming, and you shouldn't try to stop it any more than you'd want to stop them from licking their fur.

If they have excessive nail biting, and it's not caused by an infection or injury, you have a few options.

First, find ways to alleviate their stress. Small amounts of aromatherapy, making sure they have a safe space they can go to hide where they won't be bothered, and establishing a routine are all helpful here.

Most importantly, make sure they have things they can scratch. I know you don't want them scratching the walls or the furniture, but they are going to scratch something; it's just a matter of what. Provide them with scratching surfaces that you allow and encourage them to scratch.

Ideally, you want to have several different kinds of surfaces so they can care for their nails in different ways. A good trio would be a wooden post they can scratch, a sisal post, and one of those disposable cardboard pads they can go to town on. All three of these serve different purposes and suit different needs. You can read more about scratching posts here.

Put scratching posts and objects in different areas as well. You want them to be able to be used as territory markings as well as grooming tools, after all.

It can also be a good idea to help keep your fur baby's nails trimmed yourself. Some cats don't mind their paws being handled and their claws being trimmed – as long as you're careful not to hit the quick – but others absolutely hate it. Don't stress your cat out fighting with them! As long as they can care for their own paws, you shouldn't make things worse, but if they do have problems, professional grooming or vet care can help.

So, after reading this article, did you have any questions about nail biting, why cats do it, or anything else related to the topic? If you do, be sure to leave me a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible! I'm always more than happy to help my readers however I can!

Purebred cats are often quite distinct, whether you have the hairless Sphynx, the huge and long-haired Maine Coon, or the lean, athletic, and demanding Siamese.

One very popular breed is the Ragdoll. They're fluffy, super soft, gorgeous, and extremely personable, making them very popular pets for families with children and other animals.

Pure bred cats have standards for how they will look, and common personality traits that are not guaranteed, so please keep that in mind as you read this post. Every cat is unique, whether it is a pure bred cat or otherwise.

Ragdoll Cat Vital Stats

Ragdolls are large-sized domestic cats with long coats and a variety of colorations. Here are the vital stats:

• Weight: Large, often over 12 lbs. and as much as 20.
• Length: Long, up to 40 inches.
• Coat: Medium to long-haired.
• Hypoallergenic: No.
• Grooming needs: Moderate to high.
• Lifespan: Up to 17 years.

In general, ragdolls are very personable and friendly cats. They're docile and will accept a lot of different treatment, including the mistreatment of children, which they tolerate well (though it’s best to teach kids how to properly interact with animals from a young age). They aren't usually upset by changes in routine and environment and adapt well to various kinds of minor lifestyle stresses.

Ragdolls have a variety of colors and coat patterns. They can be seal-pointed or seal-mitted, and they can have colors including chocolate, lilac, and more.

The three primary Ragdoll coat patterns are:

• Bi-color, where the coloration is limited to around the ears, tail, mask, and saddle, which are darker than the main body color. This can be as stark as black and white or more muted like a seal point.
• Van, which is even closer to a pure color than bi-color, where the secondary color is limited to the ears, tail, and mask. The differentiation in color tends to be more stark. Everything else is generally required to be pure white, at least for Cat Fancier breed standards.
• Color-point, which is a traditional cat fur coat pattern where the feet, tail, and face are darker. Often, the nose and toe beans are all tinted instead of pink as well.
• Mitted, these are a lot like color-points, except with lighter socks and a distinctive white blaze on their face.

You can read a full breakdown of the different colors and patterns of ragdolls here.

Despite the name, Ragdolls don't go limp when you pick them up or generally act like dolls. That said, if you put one in your lap and give them some good scritches, that's when they'll go limp with pleasure and just enjoy the experience. They're tolerant and happy cats, but they still have their personalities and resistances. They tend to do well in smaller spaces, like apartments.

Ragdolls go with the flow, which makes them excellent companions for many families.

When it comes to exercise, Ragdolls need dedicated and interactive activities, both for physical and mental reasons. Since they're so sociable, they need the engagement to be fulfilled; otherwise, they'll come across as very needy in their affectionate way. They also have nutrition and physical activity needs that must be monitored by vets to make sure they stay healthy throughout their lives. It's easy for a large cat like a ragdoll to end up overweight, and the health issues that arise can be dangerous.

The History of the Ragdoll Cat

Ragdolls were bred in the 1960s, making them a relatively new breed of cat. They were made up of cats with a variety of traits, but the breeder, Ann Baker, was seeking to create a cat that was both beautiful and even-tempered. She started with an Angora, so the Ragdoll has many similarities to the Angora breed. Ann wanted a cat that was relatively low maintenance, pleasant and happy, beautiful to behold, and loving for anyone and everyone. Eventually, she succeeded, with what we know as a Ragdoll.

Ragdolls weren't officially recognized as a breed until the Cat Fanciers Association recognized them in 1998. Since then, they've consistently been one of the most popular purebred cats available. In fact, Ragdolls have been ranked the most popular breed from 2019 to 2022 by the Cat Fanciers’ Association.

Unique Care Needs for Ragdoll Cats

Most purebred animals have special care needs. Some are extreme – we all know the Pug and their issues with breathing – while others have more insidious issues. Fortunately, Ragdolls have a relatively minimal number of breed-related health issues.

Grooming

In terms of grooming, Ragdolls have long coats, but a minimal undercoat making them less mat-prone than double-layer coats in other large, long-haired breeds. They benefit from brushing a couple of times a week, but they don't need daily coat maintenance or special treatments to make sure they stay healthy.

As with all cats, you'll want to regularly trim their claws.

Shedding isn't a huge issue with Ragdolls, again, because of the single rather than double coat. These adorable and friendly felines will certainly shed just like any animal, but less so than something like a Maine Coon.

Note: Ragdolls are not a hypoallergenic breed. Most cat allergies are actually related to a protein in the skin and saliva of the cat called Fel d 1. Even hypoallergenic cats still produce this protein, just in lower amounts. The amount of shedding isn't really related. Modern allergy treatments can make cat allergies a lot more bearable or even go into remission through allergy shots.

Exercise

Ragdolls also need plenty of exercise so they can stay at a healthy weight. They love to be social and interactive, so you need to do more than get a motorized toy for them to play with; they want to play with you, not just play.

Consider a teaser toy and commit to a 15-minute play session each day to wear your fur baby out. Ragdolls are also intelligent cats, and a new study shows cats like to play fetch, so you could give that a try too!

Common Health Concerns for Ragdoll Cats

Ragdolls, like any pure breed, have their slate of health issues. Many of them are related to being a large breed of cat.

First and foremost is weight. Ragdolls are prone to overeating and weight gain, especially if they don't get enough exercise. Obese cats suffer from a variety of health problems, and Ragdolls are no exception on that front. Make sure to measure out an appropriate portion of food for them, limit treats, and make sure to keep them active.

Ragdoll cats are also known to have sensitive stomachs and may require a special diet to prevent vomiting.

Ragdolls also frequently suffer from bladder stones, a painful crystallization of minerals in their bladder similar to kidney stones in humans. They're painful, and they can cause litter box problems, including urinating where they aren't supposed to, as well as frequent urinary tract infections.

Bladder stones can also cause obstructions, which is a life-threatening condition. Females are better able to pass small stones, while males are more likely to experience a urethral obstruction. If your kitty isn’t peeing, you need to head to the emergency vet.

To help combat bladder stones, make sure your Ragdoll gets plenty of fresh, clean water every day and talk to your vet to see if a special diet would help prevent stones from forming.

Another issue in Ragdolls is called hypertrophic cardiomyopathy or HCM. This is a condition where the walls of the heart thicken. It's the most commonly diagnosed cardiac disease in cats, according to Cornell University.

The thicker heart wall means less blood can fit in the heart at a time, reducing the efficiency of the heart and making it harder for blood to get where it needs to go. HCM is potentially a genetic disease, and some genetic screening can identify if your fur baby is at risk, but the illness can develop in any cat, with or without the genetic mutations present. There's no cure for HCM, only management.

The good news is, there is genetic testing available to detect the two variants responsible for the increase of HCM among the Ragdoll breed.

While not a common disease, several studies have shown that purebred cats are more likely to develop Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP). Another study went on to show Ragdolls are at significantly higher risk of developing FIP as compared to other purebred cats. If left untreated, this disease is fatal.

Pros and Cons of Ragdoll Cats

Ragdolls are also very playful and cuddly, but they aren't on the extremes of energy. They also aren't high-maintenance like some other large and long-coated breeds, and overall are pretty genetically healthy.

If there are any cons to adopting a Ragdoll, it's that they aren't hypoallergenic like Siberians, another large and long-haired breed. As a purebred cat, they can also be very expensive, especially if you're getting one from a popular and certified breeder. Certified breeders can charge as much as $2,500 for a purebred Ragdoll with popular and desirable coat colors.

That said, you can often find rescues in need of a home. Groups like the Ragdoll Rescue USA and the Specialty Purebred Cat Rescue commonly have Ragdolls up for adoption.

While we tend to keep our cats inside in the US, some countries firmly believe a cat should be indoor/outdoor. Because of their docile nature, Ragdolls need to be indoor only. They don’t have the street smarts to defend themselves against aggressive animals they may encounter outside.

Ragdoll Cat Fun Facts

We're all cat lovers here, so let's talk about some of the more fun facts about this special breed!

Did you know that all Ragdolls are born as white as the driven snow? It's true! Their different colorations and patterns don't start to come in until several weeks later when they start to be more distinct. By 12 weeks, you'll generally know what pattern you're getting, but the full depth of color might not be seen until they're half a year old. Mitted Ragdolls don't even have their full, distinct patterns until they're two years old!

Another cool fact about Ragdolls is that their eyes are typically a bright and vibrant blue. They're one of the few cat breeds where eye color is a distinguishing characteristic; though the depth of color can be on a spectrum, every single purebred Ragdoll has blue eyes.

Most Ragdolls have stark, darker colorations to contrast the white. Some, though, are rarer and equally as beautiful: the lilac Ragdolls with their faint, almost purple-gray, and the flame points with their mixture of orange in the color points. Both of these are beautiful, like all ragdolls, but they are rarer and more expensive when you find them.

Many dog lovers actually love Ragdolls because of their personalities. They're not the aloof, holier-than-thou cats some of us know and love; they're actually a lot more like dogs themselves. As I mentioned earlier, many even love to play fetch with their favorite toys!

Ragdolls are very slow to mature as well. In fact, they won’t reach their full color until they are three years old and can take up to four years to reach their full adult size. If you think your Ragdoll is big now, just wait!

Should You Adopt a Ragdoll?

Now we get to the real fun question: should you adopt a Ragdoll kitten?

The answer here depends a lot on you and what your situation is like. Ragdolls are excellent cats for just about anyone, but they're very cuddly and sociable, so if you live alone and spend a lot of time out of the house at work, you might not want to pick the breed.

One of the biggest downsides to Ragdolls is the price, so if you're not willing to pay the price for a purebred Ragdoll, consider trying to find one for adoption. You’d be saving a life allowing another kitty to be saved.

If you do opt to purchase a Ragdoll kitten, be sure to seek a reputable breeder and ask about the health history of their bloodline.

As long as you're prepared to give your fur baby the attention and care they need, and you're willing to handle a large, affectionate cat, a Ragdoll is an excellent choice. If you want something smaller, with shorter fur, a lower price point, you might want to look elsewhere.

Remember, not all Ragdolls will have the same temperament, and you won’t know their personality until they are adults. If you’re looking specifically for a snuggly lap cat, consider adopting a young adult that has matured and settled into their final temperament.

What do you think? Have you ever been the proud parent of a cuddly Ragdoll? I'd love to hear your stories, so tell me all about them (and post your pictures) in the comments below!

If you’re here because you’ve been given a firm or suspected FIP diagnosis, this post will give you a full understanding of what’s currently known about this terrible disease and what options you have for treatment.

Yes, I said treatment.

If your vet told you there is no treatment, they meant there is no FDA approved treatment, and we’ll get to that in a bit.

While this post will focus on educating you about the disease, I’m working on a post about my personal journey with my little Luca so you can read our first-hand experience.

If you’re a regular reader and here to learn, please share this knowledge with other cat parents so they can be familiar with this terrible disease. If you're reading this after receiving a diagnosis, know that there is a community standing by to support you.

Okay, let’s dig in.

What is FIP?

At its core, Feline Infectious Peritonitis or FIP is a disease caused by the mutation of the common, highly contagious feline enteric coronavirus (FECV). Before we dig into FIP, it’s helpful to understand how the virus that can cause this disease is transmitted.

Feline Enteric Coronavirus

FECV is an omnipresent virus that lives in the digestive tract of an infected cat and is shed through their feces. The virus is commonly passed to other cats through shared litter boxes and communal grooming.

Some cats with FECV will manage to clear the infection but are still at risk of becoming reinfected, while others will continue to carry the virus indefinitely and will continue to shed FECV in their stool.

Once infected, FECV usually presents as mild diarrhea, but an infected feline may also have vomiting or show signs of a respiratory infection. The good news is, most FECV infected cats will overcome their symptoms without any veterinary intervention.

It’s estimated that up to 90% of multi-cat households have been exposed to FECV.

You might be asking yourself, if there are so many FECV infections, and FIP comes from these infections, why have I never heard of it? The fact is most cats infected with FECV will never go on to develop the life-threatening disease known as FIP.

“In approximately 10 percent of cats infected with FeCV, one or more mutations of the virus can alter its biological behavior, resulting in white blood cells becoming infected with virus and spreading it throughout the cat’s body. When this occurs, the virus is referred to as the FIPV.” – Cornell College of Veterinary Medicine

In the illustration below, you can see that while many cats can be infected with FECV, only a portion of those will go on to have the virus mutate into FIPV, and even then, only a portion of those cats will develop FIP. Cats and kittens that remain carriers of FECV will go on to infect other cats.

If the cat is unable to clear the FIP virus (FIPV), it begins to infect their white blood cells leading to the disease known as FIP. Left untreated there is no chance of recovery.

History of FIP

While FIP may not be commonly known, that doesn’t mean it’s new. Jean Holzworth, DVM was one of the first to document the disease in 1963.

Even with decades of research, FIP remained an incurable disease. Diagnosis was a death sentence.

And while there is still an enormous number of questions left to answer, much of what we do know about FIP is thanks to the dedication of Dr. Niels Peterson and his life-long affinity to understand the disease.

Among other advances, Dr. Pedersen was the first to use an existing antiviral medication to successfully treat cats with FIP. His findings, published in 2018, gave hope to those with FIP infected cats.

Dr. Pedersen continues his research today along with his colleagues at UC Davis and researchers at other universities are taking up their own investigations.

There are currently two FIP clinical trials available to join.

For a complete history on FIP (1963 – 2022), check out this comprehensive review put together by UC Davis.

What are the Symptoms of FIP?

Here’s the most frustrating part of this disease, the symptoms can overlap with a bunch of other conditions, so it’s difficult to identify.

There are two main types of FIP wet (effusive) and dry (non-effusive), each with some more hallmark symptoms. There is also what can be considered a third form of FIP, which is a combination of the two. It’s also worth noting that one type can morph into the other.

Common Symptoms Of Both Wet and Dry FIP

While there are some symptoms that are more common to the specific type of FIP, there are five common symptoms that are seen across both.

These symptoms include:

• Lethargy
• Decreased appetite
• Enlarged lymph nodes
• Weight Loss
• Fever
• Unkempt coat

Wet FIP

If you search the web for “wet FIP” you’re going to find cats and kittens with enormous bellies full of fluid. It’s quite dramatic, but wet FIP won’t always show up in such an obvious fashion.

Fluid accumulates over time and collects in the abdomen or chest. Fluid in the chest is unlikely to be visible to the naked eye.

Common symptoms of wet FIP include:

• Anemia
• Jaundice
• Ascites - An enlarged abdomen filled with fluid
• Difficulty breathing
• Hyperglobulinemia and hypoalbuminemia

Dry FIP

As the name implies, dry FIP doesn’t have the excess fluid surrounding the organs. The symptoms can often be vague and tend to progress less rapidly than wet FIP.

Symptoms of dry FIP include:

• Anemia
• Diarrhea
• Granulomas in organs
• Hyperglobulinemia and hypoalbuminemia
• Neurological issues including, the inability or reluctance to jump, lameness, balance issues, poor litter box use, and seizures
• Eye issues including, uveitis, changes to the color of the iris, cloudiness, and/or blood in the eye

FIP Risk Factors

Since FIP mutates from the feline enteric coronavirus, multi-cat households, shelters, and catteries are all breeding grounds for FECV to spread. You can interpret this to mean your cat has likely already been exposed to FECV but is unlikely to develop FIP.

Several studies have shown multiple risk factors for developing FIP.

Age

A study in Australia that was published in 2012 found that of the 382 cases of confirmed FIP, 80% occurred in cats under the age of 2 years, and 50% of the cases were in kittens under the age of 7 months.

A 2014 study showed kittens older than 6 months showed an increased resistance to FIP. This is good news for if you have an adult cat.

All of this is to say, if you bring a new kitten into your home, it’s an important time to monitor their growth and development. While FIP can occur at any age, kittens are particularly susceptible.

Breed

Several studies have shown that pure bred cats are more susceptible to FIP. And certain breeds have a higher incidence than others.

“Abyssinians, Bengals, Birmans, Himalayans, Ragdolls and Rexes had a significantly higher risk” – Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery

If you decide to purchase one of these kittens, use a reputable breeder, and ask if they’ve had any cases of FIP in their kittens. If they say their queen has produced kittens that later went on to develop FIP, err on the side of caution and seek another breeder.

Sex

The same study found that there was no significant difference in the number of female versus male cats with FIP, but of these cats a significant number had not been neutered/spade.

This finding isn’t surprising given FIP is most commonly found in young kittens and it’s common practice to spay/neuter around 6 months of age.

Genetics

There is some belief that there may also be a genetic component that may make a kitty more susceptible to developing FIP.

“It is still unknown which exact genes harbor the mutation(s) leading to FIPV development.” - Diagnosis of Feline Infectious Peritonitis: A Review of the Current Literature

How is FIP Diagnosed?

Sadly, in most cases there is no one test that can definitively say your cat has FIP, but there are some tests that point to the disease.

Physical Examination & History

Armed with the symptoms you’ve been seeing at home, head to your vet for a physical exam. Your vet will perform an overall check looking for things such as enlarged lymph nodes, swelling in the belly, fever, neurological issues, eye changes, etc.

Tests

Your vet will likely want to start with some basic bloodwork to check for abnormal values including, but not limited to high serum proteins and anemia.

They can also use a blood sample to rule out FeLV, FIV, and toxoplasmosis, which can have symptom overlap with FIP.

Your vet may also want to perform an ultrasound to check for fluid in the belly or chest. This is a hallmark symptom of wet FIP. If fluid is found your vet will recommend aspiration to take a small sample of the fluid.

NOTE: If your cat has fluid in the belly, DO NOT let your vet fully drain the fluid if you’re considering treatment. If there is too much pressure, ask your vet to remove no more 25% of the fluid. Fluid in the chest should be completely drained.

Diagnosis is often a case of elimination and looking at your kitty’s symptoms and lab values as a whole. Your doctor may not be comfortable giving you a definitive diagnosis of FIP and depending on their experience, they may have trouble recognizing the disease.

What are the Treatment Options for FIP?

As of the end of 2023, there is still no FDA approved treatment option for FIP in cats, so vets will typically offer palliative care options or euthanasia.

There is a light in all this darkness thanks to Dr. Pedersen’s research, but let’s start with how your vet can help.

Palliative Care

In the event you’re not familiar with the term, palliative care is treatment that’s used to help alleviate symptoms of a disease, and it’s used most often in cases where a disease has no cure. The goal is to make the patient as comfortable as possible in the time they have left.

The only tools your vet has in their arsenal are anti-inflammatory medications and immunosuppressants. In combination these drugs may help to prolong your kitty’s life.

If your cat has wet FIP, your vet can also drain the fluid to allow your kitty to be more comfortable, however with the underlying disease remaining, the fluid will return.

In cases where a cat has severe anemia, a blood transfusion may be recommended.

While the above medications and procedures can help alleviate symptoms and may give your kitty a boost making them appear to be on the mend, the sad fact is the meds are doing nothing to address the underlying disease.

Palliative treatments will not save your kitty.

Anti-viral Treatment

A study conducted by Dr. Pedersen and colleagues at UC Davis (published in 2018) showed there was hope in GS-441524:

“In an experimental FIPV infection of cats, GS-441524 treatment caused a rapid reversal of disease signs and return to normality with as little as two weeks of treatment in 10/10 cats and with no apparent toxicity.”

With such promising results from the 2018 study, additional research was performed using GS-441524 and similar molecules to treat FIP in cats.

One such study published in 2021 showed a cure rate of 90% when using GS-441524 to treat FIP. Amazing right?!

Sadly, unless you live in the UK or Australia, your vet will not have access to this life-saving drug. GS-441524 metabolizes to Remdesivir (GS-5734) in the body.

Does the name Remdesivir sound familiar? It’s the drug that is provisionally approved to treat COVID-19 infections in humans.

Here’s the problem, the owner of the medicines, Gilead Sciences, doesn't seem to be onboard with allowing GS-441524 for veterinary use… at least not in the US.

“The fear was that performing the studies to secure FDA approval for GS-441524 in cats might hamper efforts to approve GS-5734 (now remdesivir) in humans because if studies using GS-441524 to treat cats had any adverse effects or undesirable results, this could influence the analysis of remdesivir for human use.” – American Animal Hospital Association

So how do we get access to this life-saving drug?

A group of volunteers looking to help save lives by connecting devastated pet parents with the medication they so desperately need.

How Do I Get Started with FIP Treatment?

First and foremost, always discuss any options with your vet. To get started with GS treatment, visit the FIP Warriors^® website or facebook group. There are volunteers working around the clock to connect you with the resources you’ll need to treat your kitty.

I spoke with Robin Kintz, the founder of FIP Warriors^®, and here's a message of hope she shared for all cat parents with newly diagnosed FIP cats and kittens:

“FIP is no longer a death sentence! With proper guidance and supportive veterinary care, 90% of FIP kitties can now be cured!” - Robin Kintz

You’ll get an estimate up front on what the cost will be for treatment, and you can buy the medication as you go, allowing you to spread the cost out over the course of treatment.

The FIP Warriors^® will connect you with a pet parent in your area that is treating their own kitty that will supply started meds and supplies.

Full disclosure, other than the wonderful and caring life-saving work FIP Warriors^® did for my Luca, I have no business relationship with or financial incentive to recommend this group.

What Can I Expect During GS Treatment for FIP?

There are two distinct phases of FIP treatment, on average each lasting 84 days. You’ll be assigned an FIP Warriors^® administrator that will guide you through the process from start to finish.

Your administrator will be a wealth of information having treated many FIP cats of their own and supported hundreds of pet parents through the years.

FIP Treatment Phases

The first 84 days of treatment is when you administer the GS medication. Many pet parents will start with an injectable medication and will continue with injections for all 84 days.

The dosage and brand are determined by the type of FIP, and the dose will increase as your kitty gains weight.

Injections are typically recommended to start because they are better absorbed through the subcutaneous injection rather than relying on the digestive tract, which may be compromised by the disease.

Some pet parents will be given the option to switch to pills further into treatment. Treatment with pills is more expensive, but typically much easier to administer.

Labs are typically recommended every 4 weeks during treatment to track progress.

Depending on the severity of the disease and how your kitty is responding to treatment, you may need to extend treatment past the minimum 84 days.

What you need to know for treating your cat at home.

A pet parent with a geriatric cat may have more experience and be better prepared for the requirements of at home treatment. This includes weighing your kitty, taking their temperature, giving them pills and injections, and in some cases subcutaneous fluids.

Every kitty is different and additional medications may be needed to support their recovery. It’s important to have a vet that will provide supportive care should you decide to begin treatment. While they won’t be able to advise you on the GS medication, they can provide supportive care for other symptoms your kitty is experiencing.

The GS medication itself is viscous, think pushing honey vs water through a syringe. It’s also very acidic, making it quite painful for many kitties to receive and if the medication leaks onto their skin it can result in sores.

While many parents do treatment alone, it tends to be much easier when you have an extra set of hands, one person to hold your kitty, one person to inject.

Treatment can be emotionally draining and there will be good days and bad. What helps parents continue with the process is the improvement they see in their kitty and the support they receive from other parents in the same situation.

If you’re familiar with the Kitten Lady, Hannah Shaw, she treated her cat Coco for FIP, and Coco is now cured! Check out this video where she talks about her experience:

FIP Observation Phase

This milestone begins when you’ve been given the green light to stop administering the GS medication.

During this period, you’ll watch your kitty to ensure none of their original symptoms return. You’ll monitor their weight, their activity level, their appetite, etc.

You’ll also have bloodwork checkpoints during the observation period.

If your kitty backslides and begins to show symptoms, you’ll begin treating with the GS medication again, oftentimes at a higher dosage. If the observation period is uneventful, your kitty will be considered cured.

Coping with an FIP Diagnosis

You may have left your vet’s office being told your kitty has a terminal illness and euthanasia is your only option. Or perhaps your vet puts their veterinary license at risk by telling you about a treatment plan that you’ll have to pursue on your own. Either way, you’re leaving their office gutted and scared for your fur baby. I get it.

Maybe you are like me, waiting for additional labs to come back desperately hoping there is some other cause of your cat’s symptoms, but still diving into FIP research to understand what the diagnosis might really mean.

One thing I can confidently tell you is the FIP Warriors^® are a community that will support you whether you decide to try treatment or not. They will answer all of your questions, encourage you when you are down, and will share their vast experience to help you through the process.

Veterinary Treatment for FIP Has Arrived in the US

Did you hear that? Celebratory cries are heard throughout the US as we finally have a treatment for FIP available through your vet! Beginning in June 2024 your vet will now be able to prescribe GS medication if your cat is diagnosed with FIP. It's worth noting this drug is still not yet approved by the FDA, but as of the writing of this update they have no plans to seek enforcement and a formal review is underway.

The vet prescribed GS therapy is only available in an oral tablet. This is a much easier option for pet parents to administer, and is equal efficacy-wise to the injection options. With that said, pills do have a limitation. The gut has be be functioning well to absorb the medication. For kitties with gastrointestinal involvement pills tend to pass through quickly preventing full absorption of the live saving medication. For a kitty that has a late diagnosis or problems absorbing the pill, injections might be the only solution to get enough medication into your kitty's system - at least in the short-term. Please talk to your vet if you have concerns about absorption and consider reaching out to the FIP Warriors^® for advice on your kitty's specific situation.

FIP Frequently Asked Questions

Is FIP Contagious?

No, FIP is not contagious. There is often confusion around this topic because the virus (FECV) that has the potential to mutate into the FIP virus is highly contagious.

Do I need to separate my other cats from my FIP cat?

No. Odds are your other kitties have already been infected with FECV, but that does not mean they will go on to develop FIP.

Is GS Treatment Expensive?

Yes, it is. On a positive note, many cat parents create fundraisers to help with the cost, and in a community facing the same fight, small donations add up to make a significant difference.

How do I get the medication to treat my cat with FIP?

Contact FIP Warriors^® at https://fipwarriors.com/ or on their facebook page to connect with volunteers that will connect you with the resources you’ll need for treatment.

Why do some websites say they can provide medication cheaper?

Sadly, there are people in this world that are looking to take advantage of others. These people often try to pass off fake medications or use medications from sellers that are not reputable. Ensuring your kitty gets enough medication is imperative to their success. The FIP Warriors^® do batch testing to ensure the brands they use are of the highest quality available. Do not trust anyone that guarantees a cure. While GS treatment has a high success rate, it does not cure every cat.

Where can I learn more about FIP?

sockFIP.org is a non-profit organization that consolidates a wealth of research information related to FIP. You can learn more about research that is taking place globally to better understand this horrible disease.

Have you ever had a cat or kitten diagnosed with FIP? If so, what type, wet/dry? What treatment method(s) if any did you try? Share the story of your warrior in the comments below. While we love stories with happy outcomes, we also know that’s not the ending to every story. Don’t let that stop you from honoring your warrior.

But did you know that cats can have allergies, too?

It's true. Pretty much any living thing can have allergies, but what are they, and what allergies can cats have? After all, if your fur baby is having allergic reactions, you want to do what you can to minimize them so they don't suffer.

What Are Allergies?

Let’s start off with the basics, in the truest sense of the word, allergies are symptoms resulting from an immune response.

Complex, multi-cellular living things have immune systems. The immune system is a complex set of tiny processes in the body that help protect it from outside invaders. It's purpose is to help protect you against things like viruses, bacteria, and fungal infections, things that are also alive and trying to invade and use your body as a breeding ground to grow their own colonies.

When those nasties get a foothold, you get sick. Whether it's a cold, the flu, COVID-19, a rash, or any other kind of infection, it's a case where the immune system hasn't been able to fight off the invader. Usually, the immune system is hard at work fighting it off, and once it learns how, you'll recover from the illness. Sometimes, you need assistance from antibiotics or other medications.

What happens when the immune system identifies something as an invader when it's really harmless, though?

For example, dust mites, pet dander, grass pollen, and even things like bee sting venom and peanuts can all trigger an immune response.

"Allergens are foreign proteins that the body's immune system tries to remove. Examples of allergens common in humans are pollens, dust, molds, and pet hair." - VCA.

That's right; it's an allergy. An allergy is simply the body trying to use the immune system to fight off something that isn't really a danger and isn’t fightable in the traditional immune sense. So, you may get some of the symptoms of getting sick without the "getting sick" part.

The term allergy is often used interchangeably with the word sensitivity, but they aren’t actually one and the same. While they both may produce the same symptoms (we’ll get into these in a bit), a sensitivity does not involve an immune response. Sensitivities are an irritant and usually have more mild symptoms and are not life threatening.

Are Allergies Common in Cats?

Actually, yes! Allergies are one of the most common medical conditions to affect cats.

Sure, cats can get sick, get cancer, and have all sorts of terrible things happen to them, but allergies are simply so common, with so many different possible things they can be exposed to that can trigger them.

Allergies can present in a few different ways, and there are four main groups of allergies that can affect cats.

What do Allergies in Cats Look Like?

Generally, allergies will show up in one of three ways. Different kinds of allergies can express differently, so you can get some idea of what kind of allergy your cat is suffering from based on what kind of symptoms they're having.

The three kinds of allergic reactions are:

• Dermatologic. That is, skin reactions. Itchy, red patches, with swollen skin beneath, flaking skin, and occasionally something more extreme, like hives, can be a sign of an allergic reaction. This can be localized to just a small area, or it can cover large patches of the body or even be a full-body reaction for the most unfortunate feline friends of ours.
• Digestive. If your fur baby eats something that triggers a reaction in them, it can range anywhere from mild to severe. Mild reactions are mostly limited to soft stool and those nasty, room-clearing kitty farts (though those are more of a dog thing in general). Meanwhile, more severe reactions can include diarrhea and vomiting. If left untreated, it can also lead to secondary problems like dehydration and malnutrition.
• Respiratory. All of those irritating symptoms we get when we have seasonal allergies are the same sorts of things cats can get. Sniffles, sneezing, congestion, coughing, wheezing, runny nose, and itchy and watery eyes are all common symptoms of common allergies. In the case of something more severe, the windpipe can swell up and make breathing difficult or even impossible; that's when you need to bring your fur baby in for immediate medical treatment.

Usually, but not always, symptoms are going to be limited to one of these three groups. Sometimes, they can overlap a bit, though; for example, an insect bite allergy can cause skin reactions, but a bad enough reaction can also lead to respiratory distress. That's kind of how bee sting allergies work in people; the site of the sting is a reaction, but so too is respiratory distress and shock.

What Are the Four Types of Allergies in Cats?

While some vets may break the types of allergies into more refined groups, we’re going to stick with four main categories.

There can be some overlap between them in terms of symptoms, and severity varies wildly between different individual cats (and even throughout a cat's life), but they can broadly be broken down into these four groups:

• Flea allergies. Not your typical flea bite, but an overreaction to a bite.
• Food allergies. These are allergies related to something your fur baby is eating, perhaps only one ingredient in their food.
• Atopic Dermatitis. This is a skin reaction to environmental allergens, like dust mites. It's fairly common and one of the more complex kinds of allergies to deal with.
• Contact allergies. These are fairly similar to atopic dermatitis, though the symptoms are typically more mild and the treatment options are different.

Let's break them down individually!

What Do I Need to Know About Flea Allergies?

Flea bites are almost always very minor. Think of it like a mosquito for you; when one bites you, you get an annoying little welt that itches, but goes away on its own in a day or two, and that's pretty much it. Flea bites are the same way for most cats: itchy and irritating, but minor and will go away on their own even without treatment, that is, as long as the fleas themselves don't stick around.

As a side note, this is why you should always make sure your fur baby is up to date with their flea medications. Flea meds alter your kitty's body chemistry to make it inhospitable for fleas to live, so while they can still show up and bite, they won't linger. You can read a lot more about it here in my guide to cat flea medications.

Flea allergies are worse. When a flea bites, it injects a bit of saliva to feed without disturbance. This itches, but in a cat with flea allergies, one bite can cause a significant response.

“All cats can be affected to some extent by flea bites, but an allergic cat will react with disproportionate severity. Where it would take dozens of flea bites to significantly harm a normal cat’s skin, the same amount of damage to the skin of an allergic will result from just a few bites.” - William Miller Jr., Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine

Symptoms of flea allergies include:

• Skin bumps (known as miliary dermatitis)
• Itching
• Scratching
• Chewing of the skin
• Sores and scabs
• Presence of fleas, flea eggs, or flea dirt
• Secondary infections

What Do I Need to Know About Food Allergies in Cats?

Remember earlier when we talked about the difference between an allergy and a sensitivity? Food allergies are the perfect place to dig into this difference in more detail.

There are differing positions on the prevalence of food allergies in cats.

Cornell Feline Health Center, among others argue food allergies are the “thirst most common type of feline allergy.”

However, a study released in 2018, conducted by Banfield Animal Hospital looked at 2.5 million dogs and 500,000 cats and it showed food allergies in cats and dogs aren’t quite as prevalent as many people think.

“Food allergies affect just 0.2 percent of dogs and 0.1 percent of cats” – American Veterinary Medical Association

While earlier than the Banfield study, a prior study in 2006 ‘Food allergy in dogs and cats: a review’ found:

“The exact prevalence of FA [food allergies] in dogs and cats remains unknown.”

Seems like the jury is still out on this one.

The gap between these perspectives may be related to the grouping of food allergies, sensitivities, and intolerances, with the basic difference being the immune system is involved in one, but not the others.

For the sake of this post, we’re going to group all three issues together as many of the symptoms overlap, and ultimately have a similar resolution, though getting there will vary.

Food allergies are particularly tricky because it's hard to tell what your fur baby is allergic to in the first place. Tracking down what, specifically, is causing the allergic reaction is very important so you can avoid it in the future.

Some of the most common cat food allergies are related to the protein in their diet and include beef, chicken, and fish. Bear in mind any ingredient could potentially be a trigger, preservatives, gums, grains, etc.

Symptoms of Food Allergies and Intolerances

Severity of symptoms can vary, and may include some or all of the following:

• Red skin
• Fluid filled bumps on the skin (often on the head and neck)
• Itching
• Scratching
• Flakey skin
• Loss of hair
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Frequent visits to the litter box
• Gas
• Weight loss

If your vet suspects a food allergy is at play, they may recommend an "elimination diet," where you restrict what your fur baby can.

Elimination diets are tricky:

"Testing is conducted by feeding an elimination or hypoallergenic diet. This means a diet in which the ingredients have not previously been fed to the cat (e.g., duck, rabbit, venison). Because it takes at least eight weeks for all other food products to be removed from the body, the cat must eat the special diet exclusively for a minimum of eight to twelve weeks.

Unless the diet is fed exclusively, the test is meaningless. This means absolutely no treats, other foods, people foods, or even flavored medications during this trial. This cannot be overemphasized. Even accidentally providing a tiny amount of the offending protein can invalidate the test." – VCA.

If symptoms resolve on the hypoallergic diet, a food allergy is likely the case. To confirm, your vet may ask you to reintroduce their old food to see if symptoms return.

What Do I Need to Know About Atopic Dermatitis in Cats?

Atopic dermatitis is a skin irritation caused by something in the environment.

Often, these allergies are seasonal because they're related either to the life cycle of something like a dust mite or, more often, to the pollen of a plant that only flowers during specific times of the year.

Symptoms of atopic dermatitis are generally limited to the skin and can include:

• Redness of the skin
• Itching
• Scratching
• Scabs
• Excessive Licking
• Fur Loss
• Ear Infections

There are two types of allergy tests that can be done on your cat, intradermal allergy testing (IDAT) and radioallergosorbent testing (RAST).

The RAST test is pretty straight forward, a blood sample is taken by your vet and sent to a lab for review. While affordable, it’s not very reliable, though it could be a starting point for diagnosis.

A more accurate test is the IDAT, where small amounts of potential allergens are injected and then observed for a response. This test is more expensive and may require a visit to a specialist.

There is also serologic testing (RAST), which is done with your cat’s blood. This testing tends to be less reliable, but it could be a starting point for diagnosis.

A 2019 study has shown hair and saliva tests are not accurate allergen tests.

What Do I Need to Know About Contact Allergies in Cats?

Contact allergies are the least common allergy in cats and are a kind of dermatitis that isn't atopic; that is, it has a defined, specific cause. It can be a reaction to a shampoo, or to a flea collar, or to natural fibers like wool. It can also be something natural like poison ivy.

Symptoms of a contact allergy will be seen just at the location of “contact” and include:

• Redness
• Itching
• Bumps

These symptoms are generally minor, and will resolve once the source of the reaction is removed.

Cats can also be sensitive to plastic. That “dirt” on your cat’s chin is not actually dirt, but feline acne. Plastic is very porous and a great breeding ground for bacteria.

If your cat has little back specs on their chin, the first thing you should do is swap out any plastic bowls for stainless steel, glass, or ceramic.

What Do I Need to Know About Asthma in Cats?

A post about cat allergies deserves a section on feline asthma. While it’s estimated only 1% of cats living in the US suffer from asthma, it is believed to be triggered by an allergen.

Asthma is when the airways to the lungs become narrowed due to inflammation, making it harder for your cat to breathe.

Symptoms of asthma include:

• Open mouth breathing
• Wheezing or coughing
• Increased respiratory rate

Asthma attacks can range from mild to severe, and it is incurable.

Diagnosing asthma can take several tests to rule out other causes of labored breathing. Your vet will start with a physical exam, followed by bloodwork, and may order an x-ray to get a better look at your cats lungs.

What Can I Give My Cat for Allergies?

The first challenge is identifying the cause of the allergy, but some common treatment options include OTC antihistamines, an oatmeal bath, fish oil supplement, corticosteroids, and topical prescription medications.

Flea Allergies

If your cat has a flea allergy, monthly preventative treatments are a must, even if they are indoor only.

You’ll also want to ensure you’ve thoroughly cleaned your home if fleas have been present.

If your kitty is currently suffering from an acute severe reaction to flea bites, talk to your vet about medications that may be helpful.

Food Allergies

A strict diet is the only solution for a cat with food allergies. This may include feeding a prescription diet or switching to a different brand of food that doesn’t include any ingredients your cat is allergic to.

If you have multiple cats in your household and feed them different foods, it’s important to ensure your allergic kitty isn’t sampling any of the other food or symptoms are likely to return.

You’ll also need to be aware of reactions after treats or supplements. Symptoms may not appear immediately, so it can be difficult to identify the new offender, so make a note if you offer any special treats so you’ll remember down the line if symptoms show up.

If your kitty got into something they shouldn’t and has an acute bout of symptoms, talk to your vet about medications to get them over the hump, this may include something to stop vomiting or diarrhea, and/or an antihistamine for skin reactions.

Atopic Dermatitis

If your cat is allergies to environmental allergens, keeping them indoors can reduce their exposure. Doing more regular cleaning can help with indoor allergens.

You may also consider giving your kitty a fish oil supplement. The omega-3 fatty acids in the oil are anti-inflammatory and can help with skin allergies.

Because some cats with atopic dermatitis may also have a food allergen, your vet may recommend a hypoallergenic diet.

There are also a few medical options to help with atopic dermatitis and your vet will help you decide what’s best for your cat.

Your vet may start with prednisolone, which is generally well tolerated and provides quick results. Antihistamines may also be an option.

For more severe cases immunotherapy may be recommended. This treatment is regular injections or sublingual drops. Yep, just like humans with several allergies, cats can get allergy shots too! This treatment can take months to work, so supportive therapy for symptoms may also be needed.

There are also immune-modulating medications that suppress the overreaction of the immune system. These medications can make your cat more susceptible to infections and there are potential side effects, so you’ll have to weigh the benefits and risks.

Contact Allergies

Addressing contact allergies is fairly simple, remove access to the things your cat is allergic to. The challenge is first identifying the offending substance.

To help identify the allergen, look for the areas of the body that are showing an allergic reaction. Is it just around the neck? Do they wear a flea collar, easy fix. If you suspect bedding or toys might be the offender, remove to determine if the symptoms resolve.

When it comes to cleaning products, switch to pet safe brands and always remove your fur baby from the area while cleaning is taking place.

Asthma

The treatment of choice is usually an inhaled corticosteroid, just like you’ve seen used in humans, though the device doesn’t go in the mouth, but over your kitty’s face.

If your cat suffers acute bouts of asthma, try to identify the trigger. Could it be a perfume you only use occasionally? An air freshener? Perhaps a plug in or scented litter? If you’re able to identify an allergen, you can potentially reduce the frequency of attacks.

How Dangerous are Allergies in Cats?

Most of the time, allergies range from mild to moderate in severity for cats. Generalized itching is irritating and can stress your fur baby out, but it's not life-threatening unless they scratch holes in themselves and get an infection.

In rare instances, allergies can be more severe. Whenever they cause bleeding, ulcers, sores, or infections, and any time they inhibit breathing, you should bring your fur baby to the vet.

Luckily, allergies in cats are relatively well understood, and the treatments, particularly emergency treatments, are readily available. Once they pull through, you can figure out what they were allergic to and how to get rid of it from your environment for a safe, happy kitty.

Does your kitty have allergies? If so, what kind of allergy do they have, how did you identify the allergen, and what do you do to help them manage it? I'd love to hear all your stories about your fur babies, so be sure to leave those in the comments section down below!

That means, at the very least, knowing what's normal so we can know what's abnormal, what it means, and whether or not it's an emergency that needs immediate attention.

I know what you might be thinking: define normal, right?

Any cat parent knows that for many cat-related things, there may not be a standard for normal. For example, what may be normal for one cat may be abnormal for another. Even in multi-cat households.

However, when it comes to health, there are definitely some aspects that have standards. Especially when it comes down to the heart, the most vital organ. This week I will discuss everything related to your cat’s normal resting heartbeat.

Do you know what the normal heart rate for our furry feline friends should be? Or, do you have a clue of what it means if it's outside of the normal range?

Routine at-home physical examinations can help cat parents stay on top of their cats’ heart health. A normal resting heart rate is a good indicator of your cat’s overall health.

Learning about your cat’s heartbeat, especially if you have an aging cat or one with heart disease, can give you a head start on recognizing an issue. This is a topic I hold close to my heart as my two angel cats Sosa and Randa suffered from heart disease late in their lives.

At home routine physical examinations can help cat parents stay on top of their cats’ heart health. Let's dig into some of the most frequently asked questions about this and other feline vitals.

What Is the Normal Heart Rate for a Cat?

A normal resting heart rate for a cat is between 120 to 140 beats per minute (bpm).

You may find conflicting information all over the internet concerning this range. For example, as you will see in the demonstration video below, veterinarian Lindsay Butzer (DVM) discusses the normal heart for a cat as being 180 - 200 beats per minute. We decided to follow the information provided by Merck Veterinary Manual.

Generally, the average heart rate for a cat is much higher than a human heart rate. For reference, the normal resting heart rate for a human is generally between 60 and 100 bpm.

Fun fact: Our doggy friends have a resting heart rate more similar to ours, 70 to 120 bpm.

Cats that are sleepy, cozy, and dozing in a comfortable sunbeam are likely to be on the lower end of the scale. Conversely, cats that are angry, scared, anxious, or have just gotten done playing are likely to be on the higher side of the scale.

How Can You Check Your Cat's Heart Rate?

It’s a good rule of thumb to check your kitty’s heart rate while they are resting to get a consistent reading. There are several ways you can check your cat's heart rate.

Option 1: Put your hand on their chest, just behind their front right leg. This is roughly where the heart is on a cat, so you should be able to feel the beating of their cute little heart. Depending on how active or squirmy your cat is, you may only be able to count beats for around 15 seconds; if they're calm and restful, you can count for a full minute. If you can only count for 15 seconds, of course, multiply the number by four to get something close to their heart rate.

Option 2: In the same location as noted above, put your ear to their chest so you can hear their heart beating. This only works with cats that don't mind both you being up close and personal to their underside and cats that aren't likely to squirm away when you put your face up to theirs. Be mindful that you likely won’t be able to heart a heart beat if you kitty is purring.

Option 3: You can also take their pulse on their primary leg artery, the femoral artery. You can find this vein on the inside of the hind legs, up near where the leg meets the body. Feel around and gently press, looking for the place where you can feel their pulse. Once you locate it, count beats for 15-60 seconds and adjust accordingly.

Option 4: Buy an inexpensive stethoscope. I’ll admit, I bought one when my now angel Sosa was 18 going on 19. I used it to better hear her heartbeat and to keep an ear on her breathing.

In my opinion, this is the easiest and most effective option of all. If you go this route, make sure you get a stethoscope made specifically for pets, then bring it to the next vet appointment to ask your vet how to properly use it.

Check out this 30-second demonstration on how to check your cat’s heartbeat by Dr. Lindsay Butzer DVM:

In all cases, it can be helpful to keep a stopwatch or other timer on hand.

You may also find it useful to multitask by petting your fur baby with your other hand so they stay calm and allow you to feel for their heartbeat. Obviously, some cats don't like being touched so intimately, so this can be tricky.

How Often Should You Check Your Cat's Resting Heart Rate?

This can depend on the reason why you're checking.

Under normal day-to-day life, it can be a good idea to check your cat's heart rate at least weekly though for the average person, this is an unlikely expectation. Keeping a log of heart rate and other vitals can be a good idea to help diagnose any issues and when they start.

Some vitals are harder to take than others, so taking the heartbeat can be done more frequently, even several times a day. If you have a cat that doesn't mind being touched, it's a simple matter to take a heart rate measurement periodically and note whether or not it's outside the normal range.

If you're putting your cat on a new medication, or if you think they're stressed, injured, or sick, you might want to take their vital signs more often. This way, you can notice quickly if they're having trouble or if they're experiencing side effects.

Read More Cat Health Care Guides

• FAQ: How Often Should You Take Your Cat to The Vet?
• Understanding Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) in Cats
• Is Your Cat's Tail Injured? Look for These Telltale Signs
• Cat Colds: How to Treat and Take Care of a Cat with a Cold

Remember, too, that a "normal" range is contextual. Consider the following for example, if your cat has been running back and forth for half an hour, but their heart rate is still in the 140s, it could be a sign of something wrong.

Similarly, if they've been napping and you check their pulse only to find it on the high end of the range, they could have issues you need to deal with.

Neither one is cause for an emergency vet trip, but it can be worth calling your vet to mention it and schedule an appointment if they think it's necessary.

If your cat is averse to being handled in a way that allows you to check their pulse, you'll likely want to work on it over time.

Be gentle with physical affection and reward them with treats when you can, so they associate touch with care, and build that trust until they allow you to stay long enough to get a good count.

What if Your Cat's Heartbeat Is Too Fast?

A fast heart rate is not itself a problem, but it can be a symptom of a problem.

First, think about what your cat has been doing recently. If they've been running around, playing, chasing your ankles or the other cats in the household, or even doing something stimulating like watching birds out the window, their heart rate may be elevated.

It's the same way that we get excited, or our heart rates increase when we exercise. Your kitty is fine; they've just been enjoying themselves and expending energy.

On the other hand, as pointed out in the previous section, if their heart rate is over 200 beats per minute and all they've been doing is napping, there may be a health issue at play.

Moreover, if their heart rate is above 220 and they haven't been engaged in play recently, or if it's significantly higher than a previous check, you should discuss the finding with your vet.

Come to your vet armed with any other symptoms. In particular, you might check for:

• Blue discoloration of the mucous membranes in the mouth.
• Difficulty breathing, rapid breathing, irregular breathing, or labored breathing.
• A cough, wheezing, or other respiratory issue.
• Fainting.
• Weakness.
• Lethargy or intolerance to exercise.

These and other related symptoms can be a sign of a variety of different health problems. These can range from simple to serious and include issues like:

• Pain
• Pancreatitis.
• Heart disease, tumors, or cancer.
• Side effects from medications, particularly heart medications.
• Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy (HCM).
• Congenital heart defects.
• Hypothyroidism.
• Metabolic disease.
• Infection or illness.
• Shock or stress.
• Anxiety.

If your fur baby has a rapid heart rate, you should call your vet and be prepared to bring them in for an emergency check-up and examination.

In cases where their heart rate is too high or is elevated for too long, your vet may want to perform some tests. These tests may include an electrocardiogram (EKG) to monitor heart performance, imaging, and even blood tests to look for signs of disease.

It's worth noting that many vets don’t have the tools or expertise to perform an EKG in office and will refer you to a pet cardiologist. Curious about what happens at a vet cardiology appointment? Check out my experience here.

Read More Cat Health Care Guides

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• FAQ: Can CBD Oil Help Calm Cats with Situational Anxiety?
• FAQ: Can You Give Cats Human Grade CBD Oil?

What if Your Cat's Heartbeat Is Too Slow?

Healthy cats tend to have lower heart rates. When the body has to struggle to function, whether because of illness or disease, stress, or temporary problems, the heart has to pump faster to keep the body working. Thus, a slower heart rate is generally better.

That said, a slow heart rate even when exercising, or a very slow heart rate when resting, can be a sign of a problem. Called bradycardia, a slow heart rate can indicate issues such as:

• Hypothermia.
• Oversedation.
• Respiratory illnesses.
• Neurological diseases.
• Gastrointestinal diseases.

You'll want to look for other symptoms, such as passing out, lethargy, very slow breathing, and exercise intolerance. You may also notice seizures.

Again, you should call your vet and be prepared to bring your fur baby in for an examination. Your vet will run tests like the ECG, imaging, and a blood panel to look for possible reasons why your fur baby is having troubles.

Generally, a slow heart rate is either a sign of a healthy, active cat or a cat with underlying problems, and it will return to a normal range when those problems are addressed.

What if Your Cat's Heart Rate Is Irregular?

In a cat’s body, there are two nodes, part of the nervous system, that are responsible for sending regular signals to the heart to contract.

These nodes normally operate on a regular basis, but in times of distress, illness, or because of defects, might misfire. This can lead to skipped beats, irregular beats, and other variations in heart rhythm.

Irregular heartbeats can be an arrhythmia, or they can manifest as a heart murmur or another potential disease. Even a regularly spaced heartbeat can be "bad" if the beating fires in the wrong order, putting undue stress on the heart.

Important to note here is that occasional, sporadic irregular heartbeats are not necessarily a sign of something bad.

“Irregular heart rhythm, or cardiac arrhythmia, is important to take note of but is not always a serious condition. An irregular heartbeat occurs from time to time when a cat is under stress, nervous, or scared. Some breeds, like Persians, Maine Coon cats, and Himalayans, tend to be more prone to irregular heart rhythms than others.” - Rocky Mountain Veterinary Cardiology

Heart problems can be genetic, related to aging, and/or illness. Some breeds are more prone to heart disease such as HCM, so their heart rate and heart function should be monitored more closely.

A taurine deficiency can sometimes also cause this, though taurine deficiency is very rare in cats that are being fed properly.

As with other heart issues, call your vet and be prepared to bring your fur baby in for an examination to see what's wrong and how to fix it.

What Other Vital Signs Should You Check?

In addition to monitoring your cat’s heartbeat, part of a routine at-home physical examination should also include a vitals check. Heart rate is one of the core vitals; the other two are temperature and respiration rate.

Temperature is the most difficult to take because the best way to do it is rectally. A simple thermometer, a bit of water-soluble lube, and a calm cat distracted by treats are required to take their temperature. Ideally, your cat's internal body temperature will be somewhere between 100.5 and 102.5 degrees F.

Respiration is breathing. All you need here is to watch your cat's sides rise and fall or put a hand in front of their nose to feel for their breathing.

According to Dr. Bruce G. Kornreich, D.V.M, Ph.D., DACVIM, a normal range is between 15 and 30 breaths per minute.

“The normal resting respiratory rate for cats is between 15 and 30 breaths per minute. Respiratory rates above 35 breaths per minute in either species should prompt consultation with a veterinarian.” - Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine

Cats have small lungs, after all, and need to breathe fairly frequently to get the oxygen they need. As with heart rate, the more active they are or have been, the faster they'll breathe.

Like timing your kitty’s heartrate, counting their breaths while they are resting, even sleeping, is the best way to get a consistent rate.

Two other vitals you can check are called the CRT, or capillary refill time, and the mucous membrane state.

• CRT can be checked by opening your cat's mouth and lightly pressing on their gums. This presses the blood away from the surface and leaves the area white until the blood comes back. It should take no more than two seconds for the blood to return; if it takes longer, or it doesn't return at all, call your vet immediately.
• Mucous membranes are the interior surfaces of the mouth, as well as the nose, around the eyes, and other such surfaces. Look for discoloration – they should be a healthy pink – and make sure they're moist.

Finally, you can also check hydration status. A dehydrated kitty is an unhappy kitty, but if they aren't drinking, it can be a sign of any number of problems, including kidney issues, infections, and more. Keep an eye on how frequently your cat is drinking, how often they're urinating, and how elastic their skin is.

There are two main ways to check if your kitty is dehydrated.

The first is to touch their gums. Tacky or sticky gums is a sign of dehydration.

The second is to pinch the skin over their shoulder blades. In a hydrated cat the skin will almost immediately return to its original position. A dehydrated cat’s skin will slowly go from the tented position back into the original position.

What Other Questions Do You Have?

If you have any other questions about the health, the at-home checks, or the other potential things to watch for with our feline friends, please reach out and drop me a line. I'm not a vet, but I'm a friend to animals, and I know plenty about how to keep them happy and healthy.

At the same time, you can check out the rest of my blog for tips on everything from training cats or trimming their nails without making it a fight. There's something for everyone, so check it out!

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

As always, if you found this content useful, all our blog content on toe beans is shareable. So, what are you waiting for to spread the love? Go ahead and hit any social media icon of your preference around the post for instant sharing with friends and family. Sharing is caring!

If you’re reading this article it’s because you're wondering, is constipation normal in kittens? When should I be concerned?

The fact of the matter is, constipation in kittens is neither rare, nor is it imminently dangerous. However, it's always worth keeping an eye out and making sure everything is going alright, eventually.

A constipated kitten is an uncomfortable kitten. They're all stopped up and, just like when it happens to us, might have some pains, cramping, or just uncomfortable bloating.

So, what causes constipation in kittens? At what point do you need to take action, and what kinds of actions should you take?

We’ll get to all of that and more. And by the way never, ever, ever miss our educational videos in every blog post.

How Long Has Your Kitten Gone Without Pooping?

Pooping is obviously a normal part of life, but sometimes things don’t go as smoothly as expected. It can happen at any age, but today we’re going to talk about kittens that aren’t pooping.

The first thing to ask yourself is how long has it been since the last time your kitten used the litter box?

Well, that's not quite accurate. A more accurate question would be, how long has it been since the last time your kitten pooped?

If they're not quite litter trained, lack of poo in the box might not be an indication that they're constipated; instead, maybe they found an out-of-the-way corner of the closet, or under a piece of furniture. In this case you’ll probably smell it before you see it!

But what if there is no hidden poop?

If you're pretty sure your kitten hasn't found some out-of-the-way place to do their business, and there's nothing new in the litter box to clean up, it might be time to start worrying, just a little.

First of all, kittens don't necessarily go do their business every day. Depending on a bunch of different factors, they may go once a day or as often as six times a day.

On the other hand, they might skip a day, and that's more or less normal.

When should you start worrying? Usually, if your kitten hasn't gone in two days, then it's time for a vet visit.

What about extremely young kittens?

If your kitten is super young – like, a few days or weeks old – they may not have a fully-functioning body just yet.

A neonatal kitten, one that has just recently been born, is still figuring out this whole "digestion" thing.

In nature, with a mama cat around to help, this is solved through a little stimulation.

The mother instinctually licks at the rear end of her kittens to stimulate them into going. If your tiny furry bean was unfortunately orphaned, well, they might need a little help from you.

But no worries, no licking required here!

"It's also important to understand that neonatal kittens—those under a month of age—may not be physically able to poop without assistance. Young kittens require stimulation from their mother's tongue in order to defecate. If orphaned, they need to be gently stimulated by a caregiver before every meal." – KittenLady.org.

So, if you find yourself caring for a young kitten, you’ll need to learn how to stimulate your little one since they can’t go on their own.

If you’ve never done it before, check out this great video from the Kitten Lady to learn all about stimulating a kitten.

How to Help Baby Kittens Pee and Poop!

What Causes a Kitten to Not Poop?

We’ll begin at the root of the problem. Constipation has a lot of different causes, some of them are common and super easy to fix, while others are less common and potentially more dangerous.

Let's go over them and see what kinds of symptoms you should look for.

As mentioned above, very young kittens need stimulation until their bodies learn what muscles to contract in what order to cause defecation to happen.

If your kitten is brand new out of the box, this might be the issue. It's generally easy to solve with a little manual stimulation of their genitals.

However, this is only relevant if your kitten is a few days or a few weeks old.

Most of the time, once your kitten is around a month or six weeks old, they'll have this pooping thing down pat and won't need manual stimulation to help them out anymore.

So, if your kitty is beyond six weeks, you can rule this issue out.

2. Dehydration

Probably the most common cause of constipation in both kittens and people is dehydration.

The bowels need moisture to keep stool soft as it passes through. Without water, poo will harden and seize up, becoming extremely difficult or impossible to pass.

Dehydration will inevitably lead to constipation. Your kitten may be visiting the litter box, but nothing comes out, and they may cry about it because they're trying, straining, and it's not happening, or it's even painful.

And if anything comes out, it's small, hard clumps, like pebbles of poo.

Even if you keep a water bowl for them, some cats end up preferring running water and have an aversion to water that has been sitting in a bowl. This is actually an instinctual behavior.

Still or stagnant water is often full of nasty organisms, so cats will seek a moving source. Dehydration is also more probable if you give your kitten dry food and not wet food since they have less moisture making its way into their systems.

“Feeding wet food and/or adding water to food is another good way to increase water intake; and, in some cases, flavoring the water with a small amount of either water from a can of tuna or low sodium chicken broth can prompt a cat to drink more.” - College of Veterinary Medicine; Cornell University.

Dehydration is only a cause for concern if it continues. Luckily, it's also pretty easy to solve, so long as you figure out how to give your kitten water in a way they'll drink. You might need to change their water bowl frequently or get a fountain for them.

Here are some tips to get your kitten to drink more water:

• Food, drinks, and toilets do not go together with cats. Try keeping the water bowl away from the food bowl and litter box.
• Exposed sitting water may not taste as good. Try washing the water bowl every day. Thoroughly rinse it and refill with fresh yummy water.
• Many cats do not like it when their whiskers touch the edge of a bowl when drinking. Try using a wide-brimmed bowl.
• Just like us, cats prefer to eat and drink out of ceramic, glass, or metal bowls – Avoid plastic bowls as they can taint the water.
• Some kittens might be put off by the taste of chlorine especially if they are rescues and were used to drinking water from natural sources. Consider buying natural spring water or try collecting rainwater for your kitten to drink while slowly transition them to tap water.
• As mentioned above, instinctually cats often prefer to drink from a running water source. Try a cat water fountain.
• Try using different types of water bowls in different places. Watch and learn what type of bowl and location your kitten prefers to drink from.

Read More Cat Behavior Guides

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• My Kitty Wants to Be Outside: How Do I Keep Them Safe?
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3. Obstructions

Curious kittens will chew, bite and lick, interacting with pretty much anything using their mouths.

Things like hair ties, floss, ribbons, and other small items end up eaten and work their way into your kitten's intestines. Once there, they get tangled up and can cause a bowel obstruction.

Bowel obstructions are dangerous because your kitten's digestion is still working and still trying to get stuff past the obstruction, but it won't move.

This is usually painful. Moreover, in extreme cases, a bowel obstruction can cut off blood flow to a section of the bowel or even perforate it if something hard or sharp gets lodged in there.

Young kittens might also end up with hairballs that cause obstructions because they're learning how to groom themselves and haven't yet figured out how to hock up that hair instead of swallowing it.

Remember their little tongues have barbs that angle toward their throat, so once something is attached, it’s headed into their digestive tract.

Obstructions are more dangerous than dehydration, and if you suspect that your kitten swallowed something that's causing an obstruction, you should take them to the vet. You don't want to end up with bowel problems or something worse happening.

Case in point: My little kitten nephew, Loki managed to consume a foam portion of his human brother’s toy without him noticing. The first unusual symptom they noticed is that he began throwing up.

Then he stopped eating. Not eating is always a warning sign, well so too is repeated purging.

Read More Cat Behavior Guides

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Sometimes throwing up is the result of your kitty eating too fast, other times it can be a sign of inflammatory bowel disease, so don’t jump to the conclusion that your kitty has an obstruction just because they throw up.

I digressed, back to Loki. When his symptoms didn’t improve it was time for a vet visit, which showed a foreign object in his intestines.

The vet had to surgically remove the object. Thankfully the little guy made it through with no complications and was sent home with meds, a funny haircut, and the cone of shame. The remainder of the offending toy went into the trash.

Unfortunately, these kinds of scenarios aren’t uncommon. Some cats even have pica and will eat all sorts of things they shouldn’t.

If you have a kitten in your home, just like a toddler, you need to kitten-proof your house as best as you can. Remove access to electrical cords and pick up any small objects that your kitten could possibly get in their mouth.

Doing a little prep work will help remove otherwise harmless items that could turn into dangerous obstructions.

4. Parasites

Another somewhat common cause of intestinal blockage is parasites.

Cats are no stranger to worms – many animals end up with them at some point – and they can range from slightly annoying to dangerous.

In kittens, with bodies that are smaller and more vulnerable to parasites, something like roundworms can grow out of control.

In some cases, the sheer number of worms can cause a blockage.

How can you tell if your cat has worms? There are a bunch of signs, including constipation. They may also have:

• Vomiting, particularly when they try to eat and can't keep it down.
• Weight loss, because their intestines are full of worms, and they can't keep food going through.
• Dull fur, because the loss of vitamins and nutrients is showing through.
• A potbellied look, because the worms are all bunched up in the gut causing it to swell up.
• Worms in their poo if they do manage to go. They'll look like short bits of spaghetti (hopefully you aren’t eating pasta).

Parasites are at least relatively easy to handle.

Antiparasitic medications will kill them off, allowing them to either be digested or expelled in the next bowel movement, but these meds will need to come from your vet.

Roundworms are exceptionally common, and as such, one of the recommended treatments for a new kitten is to have preventative antiparasitic medication.

These treatments are generally given every couple of weeks when your kitten is between three and nine weeks old and monthly after that.

There are also other kinds of worms, like hookworms, tapeworms, and heartworms, that can show up (and be prevented by medication), but if constipation is a main symptom, chances are that roundworms are the most likely parasite.

5. Congenital Defects

Our fifth and final cause your kitten is unable to poop is also the least likely cause.

If your kitten has had trouble with defecation from the onset, there's a chance that they have a congenital defect.

These abnormalities in anatomy can occur pretty much anywhere and can range from superficial (like polydactyly; having an extra toe) to defects in the heart or brain that are, in medical terms, "incompatible with life."

There are a lot of different potential defects, so much so that the Merck Veterinary Manual has a whole section dedicated to them.

In some cases, a kitten can be born with megacolon. This condition occurs when there are nerve issues within the colon aren’t working properly.

The colon then becomes stretched-out and can no longer serve the function of moving along feces – the result, a kitty that can’t poop.

Megacolon can also be acquired and/or cause by trauma, but this is more common in adult cats.

“Acquired megacolon has many causes, the only real common one being behavioral. Some cats have psychological problems defecating in the litter box. A new type of cat litter may be the cause, or it could be competition with another cat, or the cat may just be a very nervous type. Feces becomes retained and the colon stretches, and, just like a pair of panty hoses the colon loses its’ elasticity.” - Stephen Sheldon, D.V.M.

There is also an unusual congenital defect called atresia ani, where there is no anal opening. While rare, this defect can be corrected with surgery.

What to Do if Your Kitten Isn't Pooping

As with anything related to your kitten’s health, catching any ailment early is critical. And so, the first step in determining what to do if your kitten is not pooping is noticing that s/he is not pooping.

Scooping the litter box is the most dreaded part of cat parenting, no argument here. However, especially for busy pet parents, scooping the litterbox daily is the most effective way to monitor your kitten’s bowel movements.

If your kitten is experiencing some form of constipation, the first thing to do is check their water situation. Watch them throughout the day.

Are they peeing? Are they drinking? Are they vomiting? The answers to these questions can help you figure out what the next step should be.

As discussed above, dehydration is the most common and the easiest of these issues to solve. You may need to figure out if your kitten is averse to standing water and wants flowing water.

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You may also want to check if you have more than one cat, and one of the cats is bullying the other away from the food and water. Each cat should generally have their own bowls and litter boxes for exactly this reason.

If you see signs of worms or other illnesses, you'll want to talk with your vet. You'll probably need medication to give the kitten to help them fight off whatever is ailing them.

Alternatively, you might want to take some casual steps at home, such as:

• Making the litter box more inviting. Some cats want more security or want you to be nearby when they go, and may seem constipated if they don't have that security.
• Change their diet. Some diets may trigger mild allergies or food sensitivities that can lead to poo troubles, so a change in food might be in order.
• Play more. A languid cat is more likely to have constipation since part of what moves the intestines along is physical activity.

As we mentioned earlier, if your kitten hasn’t pooped in 48 hours, give your vet a call, describe the situation, and see if they have any recommendations.

It’s never wrong to call your vet, so don’t feel like you have to wait two days when you are concerned about an issue.

Have you ever had a kitten with constipation problems? If so, what ended up being the issue, and how did you go about handling the situation? Was it something that took a lot of time and effort to resolve, or was it a simple fix? Be sure to let me know down below. Not only would I love to hear your stories, but I'm sure other readers going through similar situations would appreciate it, as well.

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

As always, if you found this content useful, all our blog content on toe beans is shareable. So, what are you waiting for to spread the love? Go ahead and hit any social media icon of your preference around the post for instant sharing with friends and family. Sharing is caring!

It's only been relatively recently that people have discovered cats are largely lactose intolerant, and while they'll happily drink what you give them, it can upset their tummies and cause them all kinds of problems. That's a bowl of milk, though.

What about whipped cream? Can cats have whipped cream as a treat or is it dangerous? Well, the short answer is yes, they can but no, they probably shouldn’t.

However, you can use whipped cream strategically only when and if, needed. I’m sharing a great educational video by the Kitten Lady about this, it’s a must watch!

Today I’ll talk about a cat’s intolerance to lactose, the reasons why cats love milk, dangerous ingredients in whipped cream and some good safe alternatives to whipped cream.

Can Cats Have Whipped Cream as a Treat? Answers Around the Web

Before digging into our own analysis, let's look at what a few other pet sites have to say about the topic.

On one side of the issue, we have MrBossCat.com:

"Our best answer to this question is that, yes, cats can have whipped cream. However, most cats should not have any dairy as they are lactose intolerant. While cats can have a few tablespoons of whipped cream a week, they shouldn't have more than that."

This is backed up by LiveLongAndPawsPurr.com:

"A little bit of dairy, or whipped cream, on special occasions, doesn't cause any damage to your cat's overall health. But continued exposure can eventually cause long-term issues."

On the other hand, some pet experts take a stronger perspective on the issue. Here's one from AskMyCats.com:

"No, in general, cats can't have whipped cream. Healthy cats may tolerate little amounts of whipped cream on rare occasions. Whipped cream, on the other hand, includes chemicals that are harmful to cats. As a result, it is preferable to seek a healthier alternative snack."

When it comes right down to it, all of these blogs are saying more or less the same thing, though. So, let's break it down to discuss how they likely arrived at their answers.

Cats Are Lactose Intolerant

The first thing to discuss was already mentioned above: almost all cats are lactose intolerant. In fact, you might be surprised to hear that most adult animals (and even most people) are lactose intolerant.

It's considered kind of weird that humans drink milk as much as we do, and even then, it's only some cultures that place as much emphasis on it as we do.

Animals (mammals, anyway) drink milk from their mothers as babies but quickly grow out of that phase and start to wean off milk. Most then start to develop an intolerance to the primary sugar in milk, lactose.

This intolerance is caused by a lack of an enzyme (lactase) needed to break down the lactose. Since many humans love the taste of milk, you can find everything from lactose-free milk to medications like Lactaid to help digest that milk sugar.

Anyone who has ever tried milk while being lactose intolerant knows how unpleasant it can be. Digestive issues arise quickly. This can result in anything from bloating, awful flatulence to stomach pain and cramping, vomiting, and diarrhea.

The actual problem is that lactose is a sugar. Sugar breaks down and ferments when certain kinds of bacteria are present, and those bacteria are present in the stomach.

Fermentation creates a lot of gas and sugar alcohol, which bloats up the stomach, causes flatulence and pain, and cycles through to other issues as the body tries to get rid of it. It can be very unpleasant for both humans and kitties!

Now, not all cats are lactose intolerant. Mammals generally lose the digestive enzyme that allows them to process lactose over time. Some lose it very quickly; others lose it slowly, and some don't lose it at all.

This is why some cats can drink milk all day and be fine, and others can clear a room 20 minutes after taking a few laps.

Why Do Cats Love Milk and Cream When It's Bad For Them?

If it's unpleasant to eat dairy, why would cats still go after that milk or whipped cream when it's offered to them? There are a couple of reasons for why cream/milk/dairy is still pretty attractive to a cat.

The first reason is that milk is high in protein and fat, whole milk more so, and heavy cream (the kind of cream used in whipped cream) most of all. Cats are carnivores which means they seek out foods with proteins and fats.

For a cat, this would usually mean meat, but in our homes, dairy based products are another attractive option.

Of course, we don't usually put whipped cream in the same category as ground beef. That's because, to us, whipped cream is packed with sugar and is quite sweet.

Cats don't really have the same taste receptors we do, though, and they don't taste the sugar. All they sense is the fats and proteins in the cream.

It’s worth noting that cats don’t have the ability to taste sweets. My sister, who by the way is a healthcare professional, might disagree with this scientific finding because she once had a kitty that would always try to devour anything she baked!

My only point here is that what’s pleasing to us isn’t the same reason your cat wants dairy based products.

The second reason a cat might be attracted to dairy products is that any unpleasant side effects from eating dairy may be delayed enough that they don't associate the two experiences with one another.

If you've read anything about training cats, you know that you need rapid responses between behavior and reward in order for your feline to associate the two.

Lactose reactions are generally somewhat delayed – it takes time for the cream to hit the digestive system, react poorly, and show symptoms – so your cat likely won't associate the bad feelings with the cream.

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Some Whipped Cream Can Have Dangerous Ingredients

Now, let's get into the dark side of whipped cream for a moment.

Whipped cream is generally made up of three main ingredients: cream, sugar, and air.

It's easy to make on your own if you have a stand mixer, and technically you don't even need the sugar; you just need to whip the cream with air enough to fluff it up.

Many store-bought whipped creams do include added sugar, though. This is because plain cream might taste a little off-putting for many people, and sugar makes it more palatable. As I mentioned above, though, cats can't taste sugar.

Just because they don't taste it doesn't mean they don't process it, though. Even though they're carnivores, their little bodies can process glucose and fructose, and those sugars can cause all kinds of damage.

Sugar in excess can lead to diabetes and obesity, and those can be difficult or impossible to reverse. Remember that the combination of a balanced diet and exercise makes for a healthy cat.

Whipped cream is also largely milk fats, and those milk fats can contribute to obesity in cats. It just keeps going, doesn't it?

If you're buying store-bought whipped cream, especially whipped cream in a can, you're going to find other ingredients that can be bad for cats, too.

• Carrageenan is a stabilizer that helps keep whipped cream from melting. It’s derived from seaweed, which seems safe enough right? The problem is what was found in a 2017 study that found carrageenan could cause intestinal inflammation. Full disclosure, a 2018 review of carrageenan, said the same conclusion couldn’t be drawn and that more research is needed. So, in short, the jury is still out on this one.
• Sugar alternatives cats are obligate carnivores, so they require a meat source to get their nutrition. Those mice out in the wild aren’t covered in sugar much less corn syrup, which is a commonly added sweetener in whipped cream.
• Preservatives are also common in store bought whipped cream.

Up to this point we’ve been talking about true whipped cream, which is generally a limited ingredient item. You might also be familiar with the blue tub of alternative whipped topping in the refrigerator section of the grocery store.

While it’s often used interchangeably with whipped cream as a dessert topping, it’s much less cream and more so processed and artificial ingredients.

These are not limited to high fructose corn syrup, hydrogenated vegetable oil, artificial flavors and colors. Ditch this option if you’re ever considering giving a taste to your kitty.

What About Lactose-Free Dairy?

I mentioned it in passing above, but we humans are pretty clever.

We know some people enjoy milk but are lactose intolerant, so we found a way to make milk that doesn't have lactose in it. Is that kind of milk – as whipped cream – any better for cats?

The answer here is a solid "maybe, but probably not."

• Lactose-free dairy whipped cream is hard to find and still includes plenty of sugar and ingredients like carrageenan.
• Fully vegan whipped creams also include a lot of sugar and oils, which aren't good for your fur baby, no matter how you slice it.
• Many non-dairy alternatives use coconut milk, which is extremely high in fats and sugars, making it almost worse than dairy, even if it doesn't trigger lactose intolerance.

Whipped Cream is Generally Safe for Cats in Small Doses

If you’re going to give your kitty dairy, plain whipped cream is probably the safest option you can give. Why?

Well, whipped cream is whipped, which fluffs the cream up with a lot with air. That means it's a relatively low concentration of dairy and lactose, and other potentially harmful ingredients.

If you're going to use whipped cream, it's almost always better to make it yourself, so neither you nor your furry friends are exposed to the chemicals present in various artificial foods.

When you purchase your heavy whipping cream, be sure to check the ingredient label to confirm there aren’t any additives.

A tablespoon of whipped cream isn't going to cause problems in many cats and can only really be harmful if:

• You give your cat this treat every day or worse, multiple times a day.
• Multiple people give your cat treats, not knowing the others are too.
• Your cat has other health issues, like diabetes or obesity.

So, if you're making yourself dessert and you want to give your furry friend a dab of whipped cream as a treat for being a good baby, well, it's probably not going to hurt them. And while perhaps you shouldn’t, who can resist those begging faces. Am I right?

One big problem is that they tend to remember everything about the whipped cream experience. So the next time you are making desert, they will run to you to beg for it as they associate all your behavior related sounds with the yummy experience.

Remember, cats don’t have sweet taste receptors, so they will likely prefer a more species appropriate treat.

Now, having said that, sometimes a little bit of bad to do good might be justified. For example, you may want to use whipped cream to keep your cat distracted while you perform a necessary procedure on them.

Check out this video by Kitten Lady on how to use whipped cream for the good of your kitty.

I guess that we can all agree that sometimes, giving your cat whipped cream can be justified.

What are Better Treats than Whipped Cream?

Now, all you cat parents out there know just as well as I do that our fur babies are adept at begging just as much as those dogs with their cute puppy eyes. And who can say no to that fuzzy little face?

Treats are an important part of rewarding behaviors and high-value training. And yes, cats can be trained!

So, keeping some high-value treats on hand can be a great idea. Whipped cream is often thought of as one such treat, but as I just extensively analyzed, it's not as good a treat as you might hope.

So, what should you do instead?

• Fish. Little bits of salmon, tuna, or mackerel can be a great little treat for your cat. If you’re making these at home, make sure to exclude all seasonings.
• Meat. A bit of chicken or beef can be a great treat too. While your fur baby can eat it raw, it's usually a better idea to cook it (no spices or salt, please) just to avoid any possible pathogens. Avoid salted cuts like bacon, deli meat, or cold cuts.
• Some Cheese. Certain cheeses are dairy that have had their lactose processed out and can still be a decent little treat, but you still don't want to turn to it very often.
• Egg. A bit of cooked egg can be a good treat for your fur baby too. It's high in protein and low in all the harmful things, but you do need to make sure to cook it properly. Go light on the oil or butter, and avoid salt and other spices.

Now that you know what you should (and shouldn't) be feeding your furry feline friend as a treat, you can start looking to other aspects of your cat's diet.

Treats should always be pretty limited as rewards for your cat since too many of them can lead to feline obesity and other health issues.

Oh, and make sure to approve anything you want to feed them with your vet; if your cat has any health issues, allergies, or other problems, your vet will know what they shouldn't have.

So, to wrap it up, here’s my final two cents on the topic. A small amount of natural whipped cream isn’t going to permanently hurt your kitty. It should however always be avoided for obese kitties and those with diabetes.

It’s just plain excess calories and could cause some digestive upset, but symptoms should pass with no lingering issues.

Sometimes we all want to eat or overeat foods that don’t agree with us, so it’s important to watch your kitty for any digestive symptoms after a dairy based treat.

And since cats can’t taste sweets, consider something more to their liking such as a freeze-dried meat treat!

Tell me, what kind of treats do you give to your feline friend, and which are their favorites? Do they love any of the listed recommendations above? Be sure to let me know! I absolutely love hearing about all your fur babies and the stories they create!

Read More Cat Care Guides

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One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

As always, if you found this content useful, all our blog content on toe beans is shareable. So, what are you waiting for to spread the love? Go ahead and hit any social media icon of your preference around the post for instant sharing with friends and family. Sharing is caring!

One fascinating fact about cats is that they have developed a reputation as solitary creatures. On the one hand, many large wildcats – from which domestic housecats are descended – are depicted as solitary animals. On the other hand, the "pride of lions" is also a common image. What's going on?

The truth is, cats can be perfectly happy when they're solitary and allowed free control over their domain, but they can also be social animals, bonding closely with their pet parents, human siblings, and/or with other cats.

So, do cats like other cats? The answer is: it depends.

Anyone with multiple cats can attest to their different purrsonalities. Some many be bonded and inseparable while others can’t even be in the same room without a hiss and a swat.

Like us humans, each cat has their own individual likes and dislikes and it’s important to identify those traits in order to ensure they are happy and safe in their environment.

Let's talk about some of the factors that can affect inter-purrr-sonal relationships in a multi-cat household environment and some steps you can take to ensure everyone gets along!

If you are looking for more cat behavior guides, make sure not to miss the read more section at the bottom or search our blog by topic. Spoiler alert, our blog is packed with resources.

Multi-Cat Households: Every Cat Needs Their Space

Much like children and many of us adults, cats like to have their own space, their own resources, and their own territory.

If you have more than one cat, making them share resources can lead to tussles even between cats of the same family group.

What does each cat need to have for itself?

• Food and water bowls. Even the most closely bonded cats still often prefer to have their own source of food and water. Since cats are usually competitive predators, they tend to be defensive of their resources. If you feed your cats out of the same bowl, one cat may emerge as the dominant feline and will bully the other away from the bowls. Not only should they have their own bowls, but they should also be in different locations.
• A litter box. The general rule of thumb is to have a number of litter boxes equal to the number of cats you have, plus one extra. You want one "neutral" litter box as a backup available to whatever cat needs it, and then a dedicated box for each individual cat. Often, in a multi-cat household, if one cat is going where it shouldn't, it's because the box is being defended, and they can't get in and do their business in peace.
• Carriers. I discussed this topic in detail in my post about training a cat to accept cat carriers. In general, you want a carrier for each cat, even if you take them to the vet separately. When emergencies occur, you’ll want to have enough carriers on hand to safely contain your fur baby. Using one large carrier and putting everyone inside is likely to cause fighting when stress levels are high.
• Attention. This may seem pretty obvious, but you should also ration out your attention to each cat in a way they are most comfortable with. If your cats are territorial and one of them is domineering, you should make time to go to the non-dominant safe space and play with them there, so they still get affection and build their confidence.
• A safe space. As territorial animals, even with a bonded pair, your cats should have a place they can call their own. This safe space for your cat can be as simple as a closet where one likes to retreat or a hidey-hole where they can feel defended and comfortable. Each cat should have a place it can go when they need a break.

A common piece of advice – especially with kittens - is to adopt two instead of one, but that usually applies primarily to getting two littermates rather than just one cat. Picking up two random strays from the ASPCA may be harder to get them to bond with each other.

A single kitten is more likely to wreak havoc on your house as they look for ways to entertain themselves. While this is still possible with two kittens, having a playmate tends to reduce the need for outside stimulation.

"Studies have shown families who adopt two kittens from the same litter are far more likely to keep those cats in their home long-term than families adopting a single kitten." – VCA Hospitals.

Learning Your Cat's Attitudes

Cats are creatures of habit and routine, so they will initially be skeptical of any disruption, including introducing a new cat. However, whether or not your cat can tolerate another feline depends on a lot of different factors.

Is your cat fixed? Spayed or neutered cats have lower levels of hormones, particularly the hormones that make them more territorial. A fixed cat is more likely to tolerate another (fixed) cat than an intact cat.

Is your cat young or old? Younger cats are much more likely to be accepting of a new cat, especially if that other cat is also young. An older cat that spends most of the day sleeping likely won’t appreciate a kitten binging off the walls and constantly trying to play.

Are the cats related? Cats are much more accepting of one another when they're from the same family lines.

Generally, it's best to adopt a second cat if that second cat is a littermate or a niece/nephew, rather than a cat from a completely different line. A great alternative is to talk to a rescue that keeps multiple adults in the same foster home. They will already to be acclimated to one another.

Is your kitty strongly bonded to you? If your fur baby is a clingy or needy cat and can't seem to go more than an hour without visiting you for some attention, they may be resentful of another cat taking up your attention and affection.

Likewise, if your cat has separation or situational anxiety, adopting another cat may not help (though, if they bond, it might help a lot.)

One of the best tests, though, is how your cat reacts to other cats in the neighborhood. If strays or neighborhood outdoor cats come too close, does your cat look upon them with curiosity, or do they puff up and hiss or yowl?

Do they tussle if your cat is also an outdoor cat? The more defensive and aggressive your cat is, the less likely they are to tolerate adopting a new cat.

How to Tell if Your Cats Don't Get Along

While it's pretty obvious if your cats hiss and swipe at each other whenever they pass by or if they get into yowling and claws-out fights, there are other signs of cats that don't get along that might be harder to recognize.

The truth is cats that don't get along and are forced to be in the same area might not be obviously antagonistic.

These signs include:

• Over-grooming. A domineering cat might forcibly groom another as a way of forcing submission; overgrooming cats can result in thinned fur or bald patches in extreme cases, though that's generally pretty rare. A stressed cat may also overgroom their own body as they use their licking as a soothing mechanism.
• Over-eating. One cat may stuff itself as a way to prevent the other cat from stealing its resources. My angel Moosie cat was known to do this with his brother. When left to his own devises he would push his brother out of the way to eat his food, then go back to his own bowl to have a second serving.
• Under-eating. Stressed cats might not have much of an appetite, or one cat might bully the other away from food, preventing them from eating properly and getting too skinny.
• Hiding and avoidance. One cat may hide from the other and avoid them, and because they tend to be penalized or attacked when they're out, they'll be less likely to seek your affection or lounge in the open.
• Poor litter box usage. A bully can prevent another cat from using "their" litter box, and a stressed cat may miss the litter box or go in places that are inappropriate. Spraying may also happen if your cats are in conflict and want to mark their territories (this is a much more common issue with intact males.
• Growling and or hissing. These behaviors are often a defense mechanism cats use to warn off another cat. While a little grumpiness here and there is nothing to worry about, regular territorial behaviors are a sign of a bigger issue.

Read More Cat Behavior Guides

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Full-on fighting, with yowling, hissing, and swiping at each other, is often quite rare. This is because active conflict and injury can be devastating in the wild, so cats tend to be more conflict-avoidant.

If you have one kitty attacking another, it’s important to keep them separated until a solution can be reached.

Keep in mind, as well, that the smaller your dwelling (and the greater the density of housing in the area), the more likely your cats are to feel cramped and stressed.

Two bonded, loving cats can live just fine in a small apartment, but two cats that are in occasional conflict will need more space to themselves.

The housing density is important primarily because of sounds and smells that we can't detect (but cats can), can travel more than you might think.

An apartment complex with many cat owners can lead to a surprisingly stressful environment in ways we normally wouldn't notice. For a territorial cat, another in the window across from yours could be a problem.

How to Introduce a Second Cat into Your Household

Adopting a new kitty is an exciting time, and you might be tempted to rush home with your new family member and put everyone together immediately.

Perhaps you know your fur babies love other animals, but this may not be true for your new kitty. They are entering a new space with new smells and it can be a stressful time until they adjust.

So, for the best chance of success, if you do introduce a second cat into your household, you'll want to take things slowly.

• Step 1: Start by picking a location in your house that can be closed off and that your existing cat doesn't frequently visit. This will be the "home base" for your new cat. You want the new cat to be isolated and safe, and you don't want to take a critical piece of real estate away from your existing cat to do it.
• Step 2: After a day or two of your new cat living in this closed room, swap bedding between the two cats - this helps them get used to each other's scents without any aggressive interactions.
• Step 3: Begin feeding your cats and playing with them near the closed door, so they can hear and experience one another. Use high-value treats to reward investigation of the door without hissing or aggression.
• Step 4: Once the cats are used to this, you can move to visual introductions. Use a baby gate or two or some other barrier the cats can see through but can't pass through, so they can associate sight with the smells and sounds they've been hearing. Continue to reward them with high value treats and play when they get along.
• Step 5: Start introducing your new cat into the spaces of the existing cat. Remember, they both need their safe spaces to retreat to, and you should keep an eye on them whenever you introduce them to make sure they aren't showing signs of stress or aggression.

If all goes well, this process might take a few weeks to fully introduce a new cat. If your existing cat is standoffish or used to being solitary, it may take even longer.

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Throughout this, you'll need a lot of care and supervision, so this is very much not something to attempt if you need to leave your cats home alone for hours at a time.

Check out this cute 3.5 min video on cosmos and Sasha. It took them 30 days to get acclimated to each other.

Not all cats are going to get along, even with patience and time. Have a back-up plan in case this happens. Before you bring a new kitty home, ask the rescue about their personality.

Do they get to roam with other cats? How do they respond? Did they come from a home with no other pets? The answers can all be indicators on the likelihood of success in your home.

If you have an adult cat that is used to being alone and you know they might not adjust well to another cat, a great alternative is called foster-to- adopt. Many rescues offer this option.

Foster-to-adopt is a great way to find out if one cat is a good fit for your family prior to committing to adoption.

When you foster-to-adopt, you can take the new kitty home for a short, pre-determined period of time and see if s/he gets along with your current kitty. If it’s not a good fit the rescue will take the kitty back with no issue.

How Many Cats is Too Many (or Too Few) in a Multi-Cat Household?

Some people say it's cruel to keep only a single cat, especially if you work all day and spend a lot of time away from home.

Cats do need a lot of enrichment, and many pet parents can provide that.

If you find your kitty is begging for more attention than you can give, a second cat may be able to ease the social burden, if and only if they get along and bond.

Two cats is usually a good place to start. If you can adopt them at the same time, either as a bonded pair or as littermates, you'll be in a good place.

The two times I’ve adopted, I’ve done so in pairs.

The first were my boys - from different litters but being fostered together. The second time I adopted my girls, same situation – different litters, same rescue. I wouldn’t change a thing about these decisions.

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I know some of us want to take every cat home with us, but in addition to considering how any current fur babies might respond, there are some additional things to consider.

• Finances. Caring for a cat can be expensive, with vet bills, food, litter, treats, and enrichment, and more. You want your cats to have everything they need, and you should be taking cats to the vet regularly, so you need to make sure you can afford each cat you have.
• Space. A general rule of thumb is that each cat needs their own space, so you should never have more cats than your house has rooms. Often, "half the rooms" is a good benchmark.
• Cats to humans. Some people prefer to never have more animals than there are humans in the home. This is more preference than necessity, though, and depends a lot on how much care and attention humans can give to their pets.
• Time commitment. More cats mean more litter boxes to clean, more bowls to fill and clean, and more time for playing. While going from one cat to two isn’t a huge difference time wise, I can tell you going from two to four is!
• Local laws and regulations. Some areas have rules or laws against "animal hoarding," and if you adopt too many cats, you run the risk of having them taken away. Nobody wants that! If you live in a rental, you should always check with your landlord to ensure pets are allowed.

Remember, each cat is unique and will respond differently to having a new kitty in their house.

I know stories of older cats immediately taking to their new kitten sibling, and unfortunately far too many single cat homes hating their new roommate. If you decide to bring a new kitty home, remember to take it slow and assess along the way the quality of life each kitty has in their home.

How have you handled a multi-cat household? Have you adopted bonded pairs or introduced a new cat to an older feline? Tell me all about it in the comments! Bonus points if you have adorable pictures of your fuzzy friends. I can't wait to hear your stories!

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

As always, if you found this content useful, all our blog content on toe beans is shareable. So, what are you waiting for to spread the love? Go ahead and hit any social media icon of your preference around the post for instant sharing with friends and family. Sharing is caring!

Just like with us humans, regular check-ups can help your cat live a longer, happier, and healthier life. Unfortunately, the truth of the matter is, too many pet parents don't bring their cats to the vet as often as they should, and some don't even do it at all. Does this surprise you?

Some of the most common reasons for not taking cats to the vet range from the associated costs to lack of a perceived reason to difficulties in logistics to cat being indoors only to lack of time to “I can always check Dr. google” if something does not feel right, etc.

Whether you agree with any or some of the statements above or not, there are plenty of benefits in bringing your cat to the vet periodically.

When determining how often you should take your cat to the vet the biggest factors to consider are age and health status. Evidently, under normal conditions, a young cat does not need to visit the vet as often as an adult or elder cat.

In this comprehensive FAQ blog post, I discuss what the recommended frequency of vet visits is based on the life stage of your cat as well other common non-age-related reasons for a vet visit.

This post also comes with awesome educational videos. All of them a must watch! If your kitty is in need of care you cannot afford, make sure to read the section about financial resources for pet parents in need.

For pet parents looking for more cat care guides, make sure to not miss the read further section at the bottom. As usual, it is loaded with resources.

Happy reading, learning and sharing!

Why Should You Take Your Cat to the Vet?

Somebody once said an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Do you remember who this was?

No to get into history here but Ben Franklin coined this phrase in 1736 when reminding the citizens of Philadelphia to remain vigilant about fire awareness and prevention.

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This timeless phrase should remind us of the importance of prevention in our lives. When it comes to your cat’s wellness this phrase is of particular relevance.

Us pet parents know that cats are awesome at many things, and that includes hiding pain, ailments, and diseases.

The only way you can ensure your cat stays happy and healthy is by proactively bringing him/her to the vet. Prevention is really the only tool you have with cats.

I can give you so many reasons to proactively and periodically bring your cat to the vet that I could even write a book. Did I just come up with a reason to write another book?

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Well, at any rate, in the best interest of time, here are some at the top of the list:

• Catch health issues in the early stages
• Track your cat’s weight
• Make sure your cat receives all needed vaccines and avoid preventable diseases
• Build a trusting relationship with a family vet
• Help your cat warm up to vet visits
• Get timely help with behavioral issues (aggression, elimination, and other issues)
• Ensure optimal dental health
• Keep your human family members from catching feline zoonotic diseases. I while back I wrote a post on 5 ways to lessen your chance of catching a bug from your fur baby.

The list goes on and on but by now I’m sure you get the point. If you’ve never brought your cat to the vet, just remember it’s never late for a first visit.

And in case you're wondering what happens during a first vet visit, Dr. Susan Sabatini from Ontario Veterinary College gives a great run down in the video below.

Cat First Vet Visit

Internet memes would have you believe that cats are aloof, independent creatures, but us cat parents know they can be just as snuggly and playful as their pup counterparts.

Our fur babies look to us to love them and care for them so they can live long healthy lives.

Part of love and care means taking them to the vet, whether they put up a fight about it or not.

Of course, we all know that sometimes a vet trip can be tricky, it can be stressful for you and your kitty, sometimes it can also be scary when a procedure is needed or emotional when a new diagnosis is revealed.

Did we mention it can also be pricey?

As such, you probably don't want to make a vet trip more often than is necessary. So, how often do you need to take your cat to the vet? As noted above, the biggest determining factors are age and health status. Let's talk about each of them!

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When Should You Take Newborn Kittens to the Vet?

You might know by now that we are advocators of adopt, don’t shop – so odds are you’re not going to encounter many newborn kittens – unless you regularly rescue catermelons (a pregnant momma that often resembles a watermelon).

But what if a stray adopts you and gives birth to a litter of little ones? Or if you find orphaned kittens because something terrible has happened to their mother?

When they're first born, kittens are both blind and deaf, and as you may imagine will need round-the-clock care and attention from their feline mother.

But they can always benefit from some assistance from their pet parent, and then ultimately their vet.

It’s maybe worth mentioning that being a completely hands-on pet parent is a necessity if momma cat is not around, but we’re not going to dive into that in this post.

Newborn kittens should be seen by a vet as soon as possible. You'll need to bundle up the potentially anxious mother and all of her little furballs for their first adventure as a family.

An early vet visit is imperative for an unvetted momma and her babies. Momma cats that have spent their life outside may carry parasites that they pass onto their kittens. Viral and bacterial infections are also common.

Bringing the little ones to the vet early will help identify these issues so that they can be treated in a timely manner.

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How Often Should You Take Older Kittens to the Vet?

Kittens generally need vet visits every 3-4 weeks (about once a month) for the first 2-5 months of life.

These visits are checkups to test for any diseases or parasites that might threaten the health of the kitten.

You'll also get them the first set of their vaccinations, blood testing for things like FIV, and a physical examination. You may also be asked to bring a stool sample along with them for each visit.

Just like human vaccinations, there are core vaccines for cats and kittens and non-core vaccines that your vet may recommend based on other risk factors. Core kitten vaccines include the following:

• Feline Distemper (also known as FVRCP). This vaccine protects against Feline Rhinotracheitis Virus/Herpesvirus 1 (FVR/FHV-1), Feline Calicivirus (FCV), and Feline Panleukopenia (FPV)
• Feline Leukemia (FeLV)
• Rabies

Check out what Dr. Hill has to say about vaccines:

In addition to vaccines, the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) endorses the recommendation from the Veterinary Task Force on Feline Sterilization for Age of Spay and Neuter Surgery which found cats should be sterilized (spayed or neutered) before they reach 5 months of age.

Some veterinarians are trained to perform spay and neuter surgeries on very young kittens, but in general the minimum requirement is the kitten must be at least 8 weeks old and weigh 2 pounds or more.

Many rescues have a requirement that they won’t adopt out a kitten that hasn’t been sterilized. By safely performing the surgery sooner rather than later allows the kittens to be adopted earlier so they begin their lives with their new family.

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How Often Should You Take Young Adult Cats to the Vet?

Cats ranging from seven months to six years old can be considered young adult cats.

You’ll often seen this broken down as “Junior,” which goes from 7 months to about 2 years old, and “Prime” up to 6 years old. As a Junior, your kitty will finish growing somewhere between 12 and 18 months of age.

“Kittens usually stop growing at approximately 12 months of age, although they still may have some filling out to do.” – Dr. Nicole Fulcher

Young adult cats are frisky and full of energy, settling into their habits and lifestyles. This time of life often involves exploring their home and taste testing the world around them.

Once they are fully vaccinated, young adult cats only need to be taken to the vet once a year. If you haven’t done so already, be sure to ask your vet about micro-chipping your kitty so if you ever get separated you can be reunited.

While young adult cats tend to be nice and healthy at this point in life, regular checkups allow your veterinarian to compare year over year values to see if a harmful change is beginning to trend.

Vet visits during this stage of life, will include a comprehensive physical examination to check for any possible issues.

As noted earlier, cats are notorious for hiding minor ailments, illnesses, and injuries, so a thorough examination can catch things you might have missed.

In addition to an exam, your cat will likely have some blood drawn to check for any signs of disease, chemical imbalances, or other issues that may need proactive attention.

Remember, many ailments and diseases, caught early, can be cured or mitigated before they become life-altering problems.

These annual visits will also be an opportunity to check for parasites via a stool sample and to update your cat on their vaccines. You can expect a rabies booster annually (or every 3 years in some states).

Non-core adult vaccines might also be recommended depending on the lifestyle your cat leads.

Do you have other pets in the home? Does your kitty go outside, or are they indoor-only? These can have an impact, and you'll want to discuss them with your vet. You’ll also get refills for flea and tick treatments at these appointments.

As your kitty begins to transition from a young adult to a more mature adult, your vet is going to focus more attention on their mouth. A whopping 85% of cats over the age of 4 have some form of periodontal disease! And did you know dental health is directly related to overall health?

“It has been said by veterinary dental specialists that if you brush your dog’s or cat’s teeth regularly that they will live to 17 or 18 years old. If you don’t your pet may only live until around age 12. Though that may not always be true, the principal is that regular dental care will extend both the quality and lifespan of your pet and prevent many future diseases.” – Westside Animal Hospital

Your vet will let you know when it’s time for a teeth cleaning. While sedated, your vet will be able to thoroughly clean your kitty’s teeth and remove any tartar that’s built up. You can read about how my Moosie made out with his dental cleaning here.

How Often Should You Take Mature Adult Cats to the Vet?

When your kitty is around 7 to 10 years old, you’ll start to see their energy levels taper off and they’ll prefer to spend time snuggled up in a cozy sunbeam or lap rather than running around being a rambunctious bundle of fur.

That's not to say they'll spend all their time sleeping – far from it – but they certainly won’t be as active as their younger counterparts.

During this stage of life, you will still want to take your cat to the vet at least once a year. Many of the same checkups will happen, including the physical, bloodwork, and stool sample, as well as continued vaccination boosters.

Your vet will also want to review things like diet and weight. Cats that are overweight often start to have trouble as they age. From pain in their joints to thyroid problems or diabetes.

My angel Moo ended up with diabetes as a result of his unaddressed obesity. We can all agree that there is nothing more adorable than a chunky cat. But believe me, you do not want to put your cat through obesity. I have a lot of lessons learned.

Many of these problems are much more easily addressed when they haven’t had time to set in and do more damage. Being proactive about dietary and activity changes can be important part of maintaining good health.

While many mature adult cats remain healthy, it’s not uncommon for some health issues to start to emerge. It's simply a fact of a life well-lived that bodies start to fail in various ways; it's not a reflection upon you or your care or love for them.

A kitty that is around 10 years old is about 56 in human years (give or take depending on what cat-to-human age converter you use) so they may need some help to maintain their well-being.

A decline in kidney function is very common during this period of life, so you may need to begin a special diet or start administering medications.

Read More Cat Care Guides

• How to Buy Catnip for Cats
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• Understanding Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) in Cats
• Introducing a Cat to Dogs in Your Home: Step-by-Step Guide

How Often Should You Take Senior Cats to the Vet?

Once your cat passes ten years of age, they have officially earned the title of senior.

Most domestic cats live between 12 and 18 years, though cats that spend time outdoors often have a shorter lifespan, due to predators, unfortunate encounters with vehicles, more interactions with parasites, and greater chances of infection and injury.

Indoor kitties generally live longer and healthier lives because they aren't exposed to the same threats that they would face outdoors. With that said senior cats are still at risk for aging related diseases.

Check out this 2 min video on the most common diseases in older cats:

As a senior, your venerable elder of a cat will benefit from more frequent vet visits. The general recommendation is about twice a year or once every six months.

The more frequent visits are necessary to identify changes in your cat’s health. A lot can happen in 6 months and waiting a full year for another checkup could allow health issues to worsen.

If it’s hasn’t been a normal part of your annual visit, you can be sure that blood tests are going to be recommended for your senior.

Your vet will be specifically looking for common age-related issues and potential complications. They will also want to perform a urinalysis to track kidney function.

When your cat becomes a senior, you’ll want to pay careful attention to their behavior. If they show reluctance to jump, if they seem stiff, favor limbs, or avoid certain actions, this may be worth bringing up with your vet.

Read More Cat Care Guides

• Lump Check: When to Be Concerned About Your Cat's Health
• What is Natural Feeding for Cats and How Does It Work?
• Treating Heartworm in Cats: The Pet Parent's Handbook

Joint pain is common in older cats but can be managed in several different ways. From traditional medication to acupuncture to CBD oil. Your vet will recommend an appropriate course of action for your cat.

Oral care also continues to be important for seniors. Inflamed gums and tooth pain can cause your kitty to cut back or even stop eating. While your kitty may not show that they are in pain, a slow decline in eating can be a sign of dental issues.

Case in point: When my now 18-year-old Sosa was about 16, a regular checkup helped identify a considerable decline in her dental health. The doctor recommended the removal of several teeth as they were causing pain and other issues. This was very stressful and traumatic due to her advance age and other health issues. Fortunately, our vet specializes in elder cats and felt comfortable with putting my Sosa under general anesthesia. Everything went well during surgery and my Sosa was back to herself after a couple of days. Had we waited a little longer, she may not have been a good candidate for such a procedure due to her advanced age and her poor dental health might have resulted in other complications.

How Often Should You Take Geriatric Cats to the Vet?

If your kitty reaches the ripe old age of 15, they’ve graduated to geriatric status – you officially have a little old lady or little old man in the family.

A 15-year-old kitty is about 76 in human years, so as you may imagine their aging body isn’t going to function as well as it once did.

If your kitty has been diagnosed with any of the common aging cat diseases, you may start to add specialist vet visits in addition to your regular twice yearly vet appointments.

Some kitties with chronic pain might benefit from acupuncture sessions, a cat with heart disease may need disease management from a veterinary cardiologist, and in the heart-breaking case of cancer, a veterinary oncologist.

What are Some Other Reasons to Take a Cat to the Vet?

Any time throughout your furry friend's life, there may be other reasons to take them to the vet.

If you have a well-established relationship with your veterinarian, you may be able to call with any concerns that come up to see if they advise that you should come into the office.

This is one advantage of building a trusted relationship with your vet and why it’s listed as a key reason to periodically bring your cat to the vet.

In some cases, you may be able to watch and wait to see if an ailment clears up on its own. With all my cats for example I have made sure to build a relationship with our family vet and believe me it is worth it.

Generally, a vet visit is warranted for anything out of the ordinary.

Injuries

The most obvious one is injury. While kitties are extremely nimble, accidents happen.

A miscalculated jump could cause a leg injury, a stuck claw could cause a paw injury. If your kitty goes outside, they could get in fights with other animals or injured by a passing vehicle.

If your cat comes home scratched up, but is otherwise acting normal, you may be inclined to just let the wounds heal on their own. This can be dangerous as under the surface an abscess could be forming.

At the very least, wounds should be cleaned and examined for debris or damage that might need stitches, and you'll need to watch them for infection.

Treatment for an injury might include pain medications, a cone, a cast, or other accessories to help encourage healing. It’s always a good idea to have an emergency veterinarian’s office information on hand in case of a concern that arises after normal business hours.

Chronic health conditions

We mentioned earlier that there are some common aging diseases your kitty might face. When initially diagnosed, your kitty may need to be seen more frequently to ensure the health issue is being properly addressed.

An example would be with inflammatory bowel disease. Once diagnosed, your vet may recommend dietary changes and will want updates on how your kitty is responding. If diet changes aren’t enough a medication may be required.

Determining which medication and dosage works best for your kitty may take some time. More frequent bloodwork may also be needed, which would mean heading into the vet office more often.

If you receive a new diagnosis, don’t panic - and I speak from experience.

There are many health concerns that, when managed properly, won't affect your feline's quality of life until they're advanced in age, but regular monitoring and treatment are necessary.

Proper management means a closer review by your vet to watch for changes that indicate the need to adjust medications or diet.

Litter box issues

Litter box issues are another common cause for concern. This is under behavioral issues in the list of reasons to bring your cat to the vet.

If your cat is having trouble using the litter box (also known as elimination issues), for example if they're suddenly going where they shouldn't, or if they're visiting frequently without actually going, or if they have issues like diarrhea for more than a day or two, it’s time to give your vet a call.

There may be a simple explanation you can handle at home, but your vet may want to perform an examination to make sure they don't have problems like a urinary tract infection, bowel obstruction, or kidney infection.

Vomiting, digestive issues, or food and drink issues

Likewise, vomiting can be a sign that something is wrong. Cats vomit occasionally, including hairballs, and it's not necessarily a cause for concern.

But, if your cat is throwing up more than once or twice a month, it can be a sign of something more nefarious going on. It could be something as simple as they're eating too much too fast, but other more chronic health conditions can cause vomiting.

Another big red flag is unexplained weight loss. Weight loss is fine if your cat is obese and you're working on helping them get down to a healthy weight, but if they've started losing weight unexpectedly – especially if they haven't changed their behavior in other ways – it can be a cause for concern.

Read More Cat Care Guides

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Any number of illnesses or parasites can lead to weight loss. Likewise, if your cat has stopped eating for more than a day or two, a vet visit is a must. Failure to eat can cause liver lipidosis, which can be deadly if left untreated.

Conversely, excessive thirst can also be a sign of a problem, particularly kidney disease. If your cat seems very thirsty, and it's not just because it's the peak of summer and it's hot, take them for a vet visit.

Behavioral changes

Finally, any unexplained behavioral issue can also be a cause for concern.

A normally active cat no longer wanting to play, an aloof cat suddenly wanting to snuggle, or a cat that seems to be fearful or aggressive out of nowhere; these can all be signs of problems that need a vet's attention.

While there might be a reasonable explanation (like a change in life circumstances or home situation), it’s always best to rule out a physical cause.

Financial Resources for Pet Parents in Need

Raising a cat is a beautiful thing. But just as raising biological children it can be expensive.

Believe me, I know, I grew up with cats and have adopted and raised 4 of them from kittenhood all the way to adulthood.

As life changes, sometimes pet parents may find themselves in situations where money is tight. We pet parents understand very well that some medical procedures can be both life threatening and/or really expensive.

You should try not let this get in the way of providing the best healthcare you can for your furry children.

Fortunately, there are a number of organizations that provide financial resources for pet parents in need.

Frankie’s Friends: Non-profit foundation dedicated to finding cures and saving pets with cancer and other life-threatening conditions. This non-profit helps save pets’ lives by providing grants to assist with the cost of life-saving or life-enhancing emergency or specialty care for pets whose families cannot afford the full cost of treatment.

RedRover Relief: This organization provides financial assistance grants and additional resources so pet parents, and rescuers can care for animals who need urgent veterinary care. RedRover also offers financial assistance for victims of domestic violence and their pets.

The Pet Fund is a registered 501(c) 3 nonprofit association that provides financial assistance to pet parents who need veterinary care. Often fur children are put down or suffer needlessly because their parents cannot afford expensive surgery or medical treatment. Pet parents must often make the difficult decision to put an animal down or neglect medical needs because of the costs involved.

Live Like Roo Foundation is a volunteer-run 501C3 organization that provides support and financial assistance to families whose fur child faces a cancer diagnosis. They pay bills for biopsies, amputations, medications, growth removals and much more.

Alternatively, if you do not qualify for any of the grants above, there are a number of veterinary financing options available. Simply run an internet search and you will find plenty of convenient options.

So, there you have it. In the first couple of years of life you can expect to take your kitty to more frequent vet visits, but that will lead into a regular annual schedule. If health issues arise you may need to visit your veterinarian more frequently.

Even without health issues, as life comes full circle, an aging kitty will begin going back to the vet more frequently. Follow your vet’s guidance for appointment frequency. Like you, they want your fur baby to live a long healthy life and preventative care is a big part of that process. Over to you.

Do you have any questions regarding how often you should be taking your cat to the vet? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below! I'd be more than happy to assist you and your furry feline friend however I possibly can! Just remember, if you're ever in doubt, it's always best to stay on the safe side and take them in for an examination.

As always, if you found this content useful, all our blog content on toe beans is social media shareable. So, what are you waiting for to spread the love 😻? Go ahead and hit any social media icon of your preference around the post for instant sharing with friends and family. Sharing is caring!

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

Just as mental healthcare is growing in focus for people around the world, so too is the mental and emotional well-being of our pets. Some people stereotype cats as aloof and uncaring, though we pet parents know better.

Modern medical science is hard at work addressing cognitive and behavioral issues in humans, but both study and treatment development are lagging behind in animals. This has led to a lot of uncertainty about how to handle issues, after all, it's not like our kitties can tell us how they're feeling.

Today, we've done our best to put together a resource for cat parents looking into one of the more recent and popular alternatives for cats: CBD.

One common question pet parents have is whether it is a good idea to share their human grade CBD oil with their cats. After all, it's human grade and so, if it's safe for me, it should also be safe for my cat, right? Well, not quite.

If you are interested in learning more about CBD for pets, I've sprinkled some great articles about CBD throughout the post. Alternatively you may want to visit my blog and search by topic. It is packed with useful resources.

What is CBD?

CBD is the abbreviation for the chemical compound cannabidiol. Cannabidiol is found within the cannabis plant, and cannabis has been used for centuries as a holistic form of medicine.

The plant itself has several different compounds including THC, which has been stigmatized for a long time as a psychoactive substance, labeled a "gateway drug.”

In recent years, social pressure has shifted. More attention has turned away from pharmaceuticals and towards traditional medicine.

People are trying everything, from Ayurveda to Chinese ginseng and beyond. CBD is just one of many substances currently being used and studied for its effects on the body.

If you're initially put off by CBD coming from the cannabis plant, don't be.

There is so much confusion surrounding CBD. The first thing to understand is that not all CBD tinctures are created equal.

Some are made from hemp while others are made from cannabis. So, there is hemp CBD tinctures (hemp extracts) and cannabis CBD tinctures.

Certain cannabis sativa plants have a much lower concentration of the psychoactive compound THC and a much higher concentration of CBD.

For example, hemp plants generally contain more CBD, and cannabis plants contain more tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), the compound associated with the ‘high’ that people think of when they think of the use of cannabis.

Hemp extracts (AKA hemp derived CBD oils) generally contain between 0% (broad spectrum) to less than 0.3% (full spectrum) of THC. Under federal law, hemp derived CBD tinctures are legal.

It’s important to differentiate these plants from those with a higher THC and lower CBD concentration. These plants are considered marijuana and while legalized in many states, it’s still a controlled substance heavily regulated by the FDA.

The 2018 Farm Bill removed hemp from the legal definition of marijuana in the Controlled Substances Act. This made some hemp-derived CBD products with less than 0.3 percent THC federally legal.

However, CBD products containing more than 0.3 percent THC still fall under the legal definition of marijuana, making them federally illegal but legal under some state laws.

You can rest easy, CBD alone won't get you or your fur baby high.

How Does CBD Work?

Scientific studies have revealed that most (if not all) animals, including humans, have a hormonal system called the endocannabinoid system. To quote some scientific papers:

"The endocannabinoid system (ECS) is a widespread neuromodulatory system that plays important roles in central nervous system (CNS) development, synaptic plasticity, and the response to endogenous and environmental insults." - NCBI.

That's a lot of fancy scientific words, but the meaning is surprisingly simple. The endocannabinoid system is at least partially responsible for your nerves and brain, your ability to learn and adapt, and your ability to handle or fight off damage to your brain. (That's what "insult" means in this context; we're not talking about taking a drug to feel better about a devastating joke.)

The endocannabinoid system helps regulate memory, learning, emotional processing, sleep, pain control, temperature regulation, immune responses, inflammation, and more.

With such a direct connection to so many critical parts of your overall health, it's no wonder that people are starting to investigate it for how it interacts with various substances, right?

According to Peter Greenspoon, MD at Harvard Medical School, exploration of the ECS may lead to new drug discoveries.

“Study of the ECS was initially focused on attempts to understand (and demonize) an illegal drug, but new research has since flourished into a far more broad-based exploration into what is an astoundingly intricate and far-reaching system by which our bodies learn, feel, motivate, and keep themselves in balance. We are truly at the dawn of an age of discovery of the ECS and the development of new medicines that may help alleviate some of the cruelest diseases that people (and animals) suffer from. I am incredibly excited to see what discoveries await us as we continue to untangle the mysteries of the ECS.” HHP – Harvard Medical School.

Note: It's worth mentioning that CBD is not the only cannabinoid substance and is far from the only chemical that interacts with the endocannabinoid system. There are over 100 different chemicals termed cannabinoids; CBD is simply one of the most easily isolated and potentially useful of them.

Read More Cat Care Guides

• FAQ: Can CBD Oil Help Calm Cats with Situational Anxiety?
• Cat FAQ: What is a Normal Resting Heartbeat for a Cat?
• Is It Normal for a Cat's Nose to Be Wet or a Cause for Concern?
• What Are Some Tricks to Get Your Dog to Take CBD?
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Taking a CBD oil interacts with the endocannabinoid system to help support your body in a variety of ways.

Proponents of CBD will tell you it can support your body in the fight against inflammation and anxiety, though it’s still much too early in scientific studies to make any formal claims on the matter.

The truth is, we don’t fully understand how CBD works on the body just yet. And while numerous studies are currently being conducted, and many may show encouraging results about its benefits, it may be years before definitive results are verified.

Is CBD Approved?

CBD is in an interesting position. As a cannabis-derived substance, CBD was part of the controlled substances list and was illegal up until 2018.

It has since been decoupled from its cousin compound, THC, which remains on the Schedule I list on controlled substances.

Since its removal from the controlled substances list, CBD has been broadly available in a wide range of products, from extracts and tinctures to CBD-infused foods and more.

They have not been approved by the FDA to treat anything and cannot be marketed as such, though, of course, there will always be people who skirt the line.

I’ll add a word of caution here. If you come across a CBD product claiming it’ll solve this or that, it’s best to keep it moving and to look for a more reputable company that shares honest, factual based information.

CBD has been approved as a medication for exactly one thing: epilepsy. The FDA has approved one specific CBD-derived drug, called Epidiolex, to treat epileptic seizures.

Something important for every pet parent considering CBD for their cat to understand is that while CBD may help soothe your cat’s situational anxiety, inflammation, or other ailments, CBD is not an approved treatment yet.

The Food and Drug Administration is looking into it, but the approval process can take years.

Read More Cat Care Guides

• Consider CBD: A Holistic Approach to Calming your Dog
• Clumps or Crystals: Which Cat Litter Type Works Best?
• FAQ: What Types of Allergies Do Cats Most Commonly Have?
• Avoiding Poisonous Houseplants: A Guide for Cat Parents
• Tips to Help Calm Your Cat While Trimming His Nails
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• Helping Joint Discomfort in Older Pets Using CBD

Can You Give CBD to Cats?

CBD is gaining broader acceptance as a way to support the body's ability to handle problems and stay healthy.

As pointed out above, that doesn't mean it's widely tested or approved, but neither are some other healthy habits.

The fact of the matter is, you don't need the FDA's approval to eat a healthy salad, do you?

The real question is, can you give CBD to cats? If you’ve read any of our previous posts on CBD, you already know that CBD oil is safe to give to your kitty and your pup.

Above, we mentioned that most or all animals have an endocannabinoid system. That includes humans, cats, and dogs. That means cannabinoid chemicals like CBD can have an effect on the bodies of these animals.

However, just because we have the same system doesn't mean it works the same way, right?

Well, that can be true, but in the case of CBD, it pretty much works the same way for cats and dogs as it does in humans. The only difference is one that's pretty obvious: dosage.

Cats are much smaller than people. As such, the amount of CBD necessary to elicit a response is much lower. With a person, most products range from 20 to 1,000 milligrams of CBD per day.

That's a huge range, and it really depends on why you're using it. We're not going to go into it here, though.

For pets, the general rule is around 0.25 milligrams for every 0.5 kilograms of body weight. Most adult cats should weigh around 4-5 kilograms (8 – 11 lbs), so that's 2 to 2.5 milligrams of CBD.

Read More Cat Care Guides

• Cat Teeth Brushing 101: Everything You Need to Know
• Cat Colds: How to Treat and Take Care of a Cat with a Cold
• Flake-Free Felines: Treating Cat Dandruff Safely and Quickly
• Using CBD to Help Night Barking Due to Old Age
• Quick Guide: Identifying the Cause of Swollen Cat Paws
• Increased Urination and Thirst in Cats: What to Look Out For
• CBD oil: A Great Source of Omega-3s and Omega-6s

According to a study published by the National Institute of Health on Single-Dose Pharmacokinetics and Preliminary Safety Assessment with Use of CBD-Rich Hemp Nutraceutical in Healthy Dogs and Cats, several studies with cats that were administered CBD were given 2 mg of CBD so it may be a good place to start with an adult cat.

We recommend pet parents to start low and slowly increase the dose as you observe desired results.

Is There a Difference Between Human and Pet-Grade CBD?

Another question you might have is whether there's a difference between human-grade CBD products and pet-grade CBD products.

The answer is, yes, of course. Differences come in a few different forms.

Dosage. Since the amount of CBD a person takes is generally so much higher than the amount you would give to a cat, the concentration of CBD is going to be a lot lower in a pet-focused product. Now, it’s important to note that this isn't consistent across manufacturers. There are no regulations governing CBD products because they're so new, and there are already far fewer regulations for pet products than there are for humans.

In general, most pet-focused CBD products are going to be very diluted, as compared to human-targeted CBD products, which might be a pure concentration of CBD oil. This varies from product to product, though; some might expect you to dilute them with a carrier oil or be very careful with a dropper, while others are infused treats or other products that give your fur baby the right dosage every time.

Flavoring. This one might seem obvious in retrospect, but many people overlook it. Human-grade CBD is usually either neutral or flavored, possibly as part of a vape cartridge, or as part of a snack or food. For pets, it's either a neutral flavor, or it's some kind of meat flavoring, or peanut butter, i.e. something our carnivorous friends prefer. Your cat might not like what you enjoy, and you might not like what they enjoy. That doesn't mean you can't share, just that it might be less pleasant than you expect.

Purity. Unfortunately, pet products are less regulated than human products, even in something as unregulated as CBD. Some "pet-grade" CBD products might use the designation as an excuse to be less pure, less filtered, or less processed (in this case we mean more THC).

The truth is, though, it varies a ton based on the manufacturer of the product. Some of them are extremely sketchy, while others are USDA certified organic and can provide an independent Certificate of Analysis (COA) confirming the concentration noted on the label.

Certification. As we've mentioned, the FDA doesn't certify any CBD products except for that one epilepsy drug. However, that doesn't mean that they can't be certified at all. There are at least four different certifications you should look for. Regulated and unregulated by the US government.

The first two represent the highest thresholds for safety, purity, quality, oversight, product and process quality control and accountability. They are regulated by the US federal government and should be your minimum threshold for product confidence.

The two remaining on the list are not associated or regulated by the federal government and are somewhat easier to meet. And while not as popular or reputable, they represent nice additions on top of the first two:

• USDA Certified Organic. The USDA will review all of the ingredients in a product – not just the CBD – and verify that they're produced using organically ingredients. This sets the highest bar in terms of safety and guarantees the purity and a product free of contaminants.
• cGMP. The Current Good Manufacturing Practice certification is obtained by meeting the FDA’s requirements for “the methods, facilities, and controls used in manufacturing.” This is the second highest threshold for safety and quality any CBD product you consume should at least meet. The regulations ensure that a product is safe for use and confirms that it has the ingredients and strength the manufacturer claims.
• The US Hemp Authority. This authority specifically deals with hemp and hemp-derived products, which includes CBD. They can verify that a product is produced using industry standards and best practices.
• The NASC. The National Animal Supplements Council is a third-party agency that helps review supplements to verify that they're as safe as possible to get, short of dedicated FDA testing.

Here is a great guide on how to pick the best CBD oil for your dog or cat.

So, while there are differences, they vary from product and manufacturer, and it's difficult to make any sweeping generalizations.

Can You Give Your Fur Baby Human-Grade CBD?

The simple and short answer to this one is yes. Human-grade CBD is, if anything, more likely to be pure and refined than pet-grade, simply by nature of how much more oversight human-grade products have. Read more below for the long answer.

That's not to say it's completely safe. You want to watch out for a few things.

• First of all, keep an eye out for additives. A flavoring you might enjoy might be toxic to your furry friend, and that's absolutely not something you want to encounter unexpectedly. In the same way you wouldn't want to give your fur baby a CBD-infused chocolate because of well, the chocolate, you want to be careful with what other ingredients in your CBD product. This is less of a problem if you buy a pure CBD tincture or one that is certified USDA organic and designed for cats.
• You should pay attention to concentration and dosage as well. If you're using a tincture or pure oil to make your own treats or add to food, you need to make sure you know what the concentration of CBD is in your product. Some are diluted in a carrier oil, while others are closer to pure CBD oil; one or two drops of the latter will be far more potent than the former.
• It’s also best to check for a Certificate of Analysis for the product you intend to buy. These certificates are provided by an independent third-party lab after they test and analyze the content in a batch of CBD oil. As we mentioned earlier, it’ll confirm the amount of CBD present as well as the level of THC. Some tests will also show if any microbials or heavy metals are present.

So, should you give your fur baby human-grade CBD? That's ultimately your call. We know CBD oil isn’t cheap, so it’s tempting to share, but frankly, we don’t recommend it, because of the possible additives we noted earlier.

Instead, look into a pet-specific CBD product designed for your fur babies.

If you ever want to try CBD oil for your cat, we always like to caution pet parents to make sure they pick a non-toxic and safe CBD oil for their furry children.

Making sure you pick a product that is made in the USA as well as organic should be every pet parent's priority.

As we have discussed in multiple occasions throughout all my related blog posts on CBD, the wild west nature of the pet products industry can make buying safe CBD tinctures a very dangerous thing.

If you are currently buying pet hemp oil (not to be confused with hemp extract or CBD oil for dogs and cats) on the largest US eCommerce site, odds are those products are manufactured in Asia. Keep on administering them at your own peril. Don't believe us? keep on reading.

Read More Cat Care Guides

• How to Calm Down Anxious Canines for A Grooming Session
• Introducing a Cat to Dogs in Your Home: Step-by-Step Guide
• What is a Ragdoll Cat? Breeds, Traits, Origins, Care & More
• Is Your Cat's Tail Injured? Look for These Telltale Signs
• Understanding Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) in Cats
• What is Natural Feeding for Cats and How Does It Work?
• Lump Check: When to Be Concerned About Your Cat's Health
• Collar Considerations: The Case for and Against Bells on Cats

There are several ways in which you can find out if your pet products are made in Asia and the manufacturer is falsely claiming made in the USA or some cleaver variation of this phrase.

One simple way is by running what we like to call the 3liv3v3 test (replace the "3" symbol for the letter "a" and the "v" for a "b" when looking up this website).

For those of you not familiar with this website, it is basically where 90% + of products come from on the largest eCommerce site in the USA. Go on 3liv3v3 and run a search for pet hemp oil .

You will be surprised or should we say terrified? to find many of the most popular commercially available products there. Perhaps even the one you are using right now. The horrifying thing is that many of these brands label their products as "handcrafted in the USA" or even "made in the USA".

In closing, if your fur baby has common issues such as inflammation, joint pain, low appetite, or situational anxiety, your best bet is to take them to the vet and discuss medical treatment options.

Never try to use holistic treatments for serious medical issues that may require veterinary attention. In addition, we always recommend chatting with your vet before administering CBD oil.

However, as a way to support the overall health and wellness of your fur babies (and yourself), CBD might be a good product to try. We'll leave that decision up to you.

Have you ever given your feline friend CBD before? How did it go? Do you have any funny stories to share about the experience? Did you get more CBD on you instead of in your kitty? Be sure to leave all your thoughts and stories in the comments section down below! I'd love to hear your thoughts!

If you found this post informative, please feel free to click on any social media button located around this post. Alternatively, if you are looking for more education on CBD for pets, you are at the right location. I have written extensively about this topic!

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

Every cat parent, and well most everyone else knows of catnip as a sort of kitty drug. It makes them go wild, they get goofy and playful. They just love to get their paws on it. At least, that's the more well-known picture.

In this blog post I cover some common questions and clever ways to use catnip for cats. What is catnip? How many people know what the plant looks like, how to identify it beyond its commercial packaging, or what it's actually doing to your cat?

Also, do all cats love catnip, or does it affect certain cats differently? You may also be wondering, is it unsafe for young cats, if so how old should your cat be before you give them catnip?

I've also added a very short video about a cat that had too much catnip. A must watch.

If you are curious to learn more about catnip for cats, I have sprinkled some great articles throughout the post. I have written extensively about catnip.

Alternatively, you can visit my blog and search by topic. Spoiler alert: it is loaded with resources.

Editor's Note: 'Common Questions and Clever Ways to use Catnip' was originally written in 2021. I update this post periodically to reflect changes in techniques, new recommendations, and because I am always learning new things!

Let's dig in!

What Is Catnip, Anyway?

Catnip is one of the many herbs in the mint family.

It's more than just a euphoric plant for cats. Over the course of history, humans have commonly used catnip as tea to aid in digestion and induce relaxation, and it's even a good insect repellant.

How does it work for cats?

Well, to understand that, you need to know something cool about cats. Cats have an extra organ on the roof of their mouth called the vomeronasal organ, more commonly known as Jacobson's organ.

"This amazing organ (Jacobson’s organ) serves as a secondary olfactory system and detects specific chemicals by using nerves that lead directly to the brain. Unlike olfactory cells in the nose, the odor receptors of Jacobson’s organ do not respond to just ordinary smells. Jacobson’s receptors pick up chemical substances that have no odor at all. In other words, they work to detect “undetectable” odors." - Ryan Llera, BSc, DVM; Lynn Buzhardt, DVM | VCA Animal Hospitals

Read More Catnip Guides

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• Does Catnip Expire? Here's 5 Facts About Freshness and Storage
• 5 Fun Facts About Catnip
• Buy USDA Certified Organic Catnip – Grown in The USA - Free of Heavy Metals

This is why cats have such a good sense of smell; they take in scents (sometimes you’ll even see them with their mouth open and lips spread; we call it “stinky face” because they look like they encountered something foul smelling), and the information is sent directly to their brain to interpret.

Catnip itself contains an oil called nepetalactone, which has a specific scent that:

"…mimics feline sex hormones, so cats enjoying this substance will often display behaviors similar to a female cat in heat (although both male and female cats can experience the effects)." - PetMD

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Cats react in different ways to this scent; they might become more playful and active, more affectionate, or they may experience relaxation and happiness.

Inhaling the scent from catnip generally induces a hyperactive state, whereas consuming the catnip orally causes a more relaxed state.

Cats may also get some pain relief and can experience reduced anxiety from it as well.

"Best known for eliciting a state of euphoria in cats, it also stimulates appetite, aids digestion, helps calm nervous animals and encourages restful sleep"- Dr. Suzi Beber | Animal Wellness Magazine

On rare occasions, catnip can make some cats more aggressive.

Catnip can be a fun recreational treat for cats, and it can be used in therapeutic situations to relieve anxiety, such as separation anxiety.

Read More Cat Care Guides

• My Older Adult Cat Won't Eat: How Can I Encourage Them?
• What is a Ragdoll Cat? Breeds, Traits, Origins, Care & More
• What is Natural Feeding for Cats and How Does It Work?
• Flake-Free Felines: Treating Cat Dandruff Safely and Quickly
• 5 Clever Ideas to Hide Your Cat's Litter Box in an Enclosure

It's also interesting to note that while the common perception is that catnip works on all cats, it actually doesn't! While estimates vary, it's probably fair to say over half of all cats (60% or so) have a reaction to catnip.

This seems to be based on genetic factors; some cats simply don't have the right genetic traits that cause reactions to catnip.

Fun fact: kitties in Australia have a higher rate of immunity (i.e., no reaction) to this leafy green plant.

Is Catnip Dangerous?

The short answer is no BUT it could be.

If you do not know how to safely buy catnip for cats, you may end up not only slowly poisoning your cat over time but also yourself and those around you.

It is no secret that the pet products industry is flooded with unscrupulous sellers that will use the art of deception in product labeling to mislead pet parents in order to make a buck at the expense of the happiness and well-being of our furry children.

However, so long as you become knowledgeable about the risks of buying imported catnip, you should be fine.

Some cats are fiends for catnip, while others just like to roll around in it; thankfully, catnip isn't inherently dangerous. In fact catnip might even be helpful and can aid in digestion.

But as it's true of most things, too much of a good thing can cause problems. If your cat eats too much catnip, they may experience digestive issues.

If your cat loves catnip, s/he might try to dig into the package where it's stored, so it's best to keep it out of reach. Too much catnip at once can overwhelm your cat leading to digestive upset and vomiting.

Their behavior mimics an overdose, and while it can be scary to see, it's not life-threatening. Incidentally, this is why you should avoid using concentrated catnip oils.

Since the active ingredient in catnip is an oil found in the leaves, catnip will degrade over time. In old catnip, the oils dissipate and dry out, so the herb loses potency. It's just like any other tea, spice, or herb in your kitchen; once it ages, it loses its potency.

By the way, you don't have to worry about addiction. Catnip isn't any more addictive than any other pleasurable toy, and there are no withdrawal symptoms. It's just a short-lived good time for your feline friend.

Feel free to use it whenever you want to get your cat riled up or calmed down, depending on their particular reaction.

The effects of catnip last around 10-15 minutes after giving the herb to your kitty, after which they won't be able to benefit from the herb again for about an hour or two.

How Old is Old Enough for Catnip?

A common question is how old your cat needs to be before you can give them catnip. If you give catnip to a kitten that is too young, is it going to cause problems? Can it cause developmental issues?

Luckily, the answer is no.

There's a specific age at which you can start giving your cat catnip, but the reason might surprise you.

Remember up above when we mentioned that catnip mimics a cat's sex hormones? Well, there's the key.

Catnip doesn't work on very young cats – those under six months old – because they are simply too young to care.

In fact, they may be somewhat avoidant of it. They still recognize that catnip has a strong odor, but they don't get pleasure out of it, so they might just ignore it altogether.

This doesn't mean your cat is one of the ones that doesn't respond to catnip. It just means your kitty is too young for the nepetalactone to cause a response in their brain.

As they get older, they may or may not develop a finer appreciation for the plant and its oil, or they might simply show indifference to it.

Catnip isn't going to harm your kitten; it just won't do anything for them except for being a source of a strong scent. They may be curious, they may avoid it, or they might ignore it.

Regardless, it's not dangerous. Feathery toys or balls to chase are a better option for kittens as they will activate their primal instinct to hunt.

Once your fuzzball is over six months old, they'll likely start to show a reaction to catnip, if they're going to at all. By a year old, they will be fully susceptible to catnip, or you'll know they don't react to it.

If you find your kitten tears into a bag of catnip, it's probably because the bag made a fun sound, they thought it was a toy, or they were digging for a treat, not because of the euphoric effects of the herb.

How Long Does It Take for Cats to Get High on Catnip?

It usually takes only a few seconds for your kitty to experience that euphoric catnip response. Of course, so long as the catnip is fresh, and your cat is not immune to nepetalactone.

According to The Humane Society of The United States, about 50% of cats have no reaction to catnip.

Do Cats Fall Asleep on Catnip?

Yes, catnip can make cats drowsy, but typically it's only when the catnip is ingested.

Nepetalactone is very similar to valepotriates compounds found in Valerian.

The sedative effects of Valerian are widely known. When consumed orally, catnip will have a sedative effect on cats.

How Long Does Catnip Last on Cats?

Unfortunately the catnip high only lasts about 10 minutes.

However, the length of time will depend on the size, weight, and age of the cat. In some extreme cases, the euphoria may last for a few hours.

The potency of the catnip will also have an impact on the duration of the effect. Given the time imported catnip spends traveling from Asia, it tends to be less potent than US grown catnip.

How Much Catnip Should I Give My Cat?

For oral consumption always start with a small amount of catnip.

If you're trying to entice your cat to eat by adding catnip to their food, simply sprinkle it over the food as if you were sprinkling salt on your own meal. Treat it like any other spice or condiment you add to your food. You don't want to overdo it.

While catnip is considered safe and a cat is highly unlikely to overdose on catnip, as discussed above, too much of anything isn’t good for anybody.

There’s always a very small chance that they may eat too much and have an adverse reaction such as vomiting or diarrhea.

Check Out This Short 1.52-Sec Video About a Cat's Reaction After Having Too Much Catnip

Due to the fact that cats are so great at regulating their catnip experience all by themselves, in general, cat parents should not be too concerned about how much is too much catnip for a cat.

“From a toxicological standpoint, no significant toxicity is expected in either humans or cats.”- Pet Poison Help Line.

Clever Ways to Use Catnip

Once your kitten is old enough to start getting some joy out of catnip, you can test it out. Give them a little bit of the herb and see how they react.

If your cat is one of the lucky ones that have the dominant gene for catnip response, you have a wonderful new tool and toy on your hands. The only question now is, where do I get it and how can I use it?

Buy high-quality catnip, or grow it yourself.

Catnip is easy to grow. It's a simple herb that grows broadly across North America and around the world and is hardy in many climate zones. It's also easy to grow in a pot on the windowsill.

There's just one problem with growing it indoors: with the plant so readily available, what's to stop your kitty from chewing it down to the stems or knocking over the pot?

If you plant it outside, what if it attracts other neighborhood cats and makes your kitty scared or territorial?

If you’ve ever had a cat grass plant you may have seen your fur baby overindulge and subsequently regurgitate the grass; this can happen with catnip too.

If you don’t have a green thumb or would rather not have to supervise access to an indoor plant, the easiest method most cat parents choose it to simply buy catnip.

We recommend getting your catnip from a verified, organic seller like toe beans. You want high-quality, fresh catnip for the best effect, and that's what we provide. Buy it, keep it in an airtight container, and only break it out when it's play time.

Use catnip to encourage positive behaviors.

One of the more common ways you can use catnip to train your feline is by scattering or rubbing some on a surface that you want your cat to use.

Cats love to scratch, so getting them to consistently use a scratching post rather than the side of a couch or a table leg is tricky. But, if you rub some catnip on the scratching post, they'll be attracted to it.

As long as you keep the catnip away from the furniture, they'll be more inclined to use the scratching post for their scratching needs.

We've all seen the jokes (and experienced firsthand) how a cat loves the box that the cat tree came in far more than they love the cat tree.

Cats do love boxes, but if you scatter some catnip on that new bed or cat tree, they'll be more likely to hang out there. This is best for cats that tend to be more relaxed on catnip than those who are more energetic and aggressive, though.

Sprinkle catnip around a new area to encourage exploration.

If you have an anxious kitty that exhibits the relaxation response to catnip, it can be a great tool to help them to explore a new area.

This can be distressing if you've just adopted a new furry friend and want them to explore your home rather than hiding in the spare room all the time.

Catnip is also good if you move, and the disruption makes your cat retreat into one specific area.

Simply sprinkle some catnip around key areas of the rooms you would like your kitty to explore.

As a less messy alternative, sprinkle some catnip on top of their food at mealtime and then slowly introduce your fur baby to new spaces that have been fitted with familiar scents.

Put some catnip in their carrier to reduce anxiety for car trips.

Cats don't usually like their carriers as they tend to associate it with going to the V-E-T.

We get it, a car ride is a scary, noisy time with a bunch of movements they can neither see nor control. Bumpy car trips can also cause motion sickness and even anxiety.

By adding a bit of catnip to their carrier, you can reduce anxiety and make your kitty more amenable to both the carrier and the car.

Just make sure your cat is the kind that responds to catnip with relaxation rather than energy or aggression. It does no good to rile up your furry friend and then confine them to a carrier!

Make a new toy a little bit more fun.

Catnip is a great way to enhance certain kinds of toys. Do you have one of those dryers that eats socks, where you end up with a bunch of singles?

Grab one and sprinkle some catnip inside, tie a knot at the top, and then you have an inexpensive new cat toy. There are also soft balls and other fabric items that can be filled with or rubbed with catnip for a similar effect.

These are particularly good for kitties that get energetic and wild when you give them catnip. By focusing their attention on a toy, you can avoid their energy damaging the arms and legs of your furniture.

Remember that catnip fades over time. The longer the herb is exposed to air, the more the oil will oxidize, dissipate, and evaporate.

Eventually, the herb's scent on the toy or other items will fade, and you'll need to restore it with some fresh catnip.

If you are in the market for some fresh catnip for your cat, make sure to read the Momma Knows Best^® 7 golden rules of buying catnip: How to Buy Catnip for Cats and avoid irreversible damage to your cat and your loved ones.

Tell Us Your Catnip Stories

If there's one thing we know, it's that pet parents love talking about their pets. So, if you have a feline family member, tell us, does your cat react to catnip, and if so how? What sort of antics do they get into when they're nipped up? What's the silliest thing they've done with a catnip toy?

We're also curious, have you done anything innovative with catnip, like training or attracting your kitty to a new toy or hangout? Tell us all about it; we'd love to hear it!

Of course, if you're not sure if your new furry friend has a sensitivity to catnip, you can always pick some up and give it a try.

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic, and brought to you by a US company, check out toe beans online pet supplies store!