Some commercial cat foods are full of filler. Some include sub-par ingredients that might not be bad right now but can be bad in the long term, especially if contaminants build up in your cat's system. Sometimes, they just include allergens, and your cat has a sensitive stomach and can't handle them.

There are plenty of reasons to consider making DIY, homemade cat food. But there's also a lot to consider. Let's talk about it!

Should You Make DIY Cat Food?

The first question that might come to mind is whether or not you should even consider making homemade cat food.

In my opinion, yes! There are a few good reasons to do it.

You know everything that goes into your cat's food when you make it yourself.

This is possibly the biggest reason; you know everything that goes into a recipe you make. With commercial cat foods, you often see ingredients listed that you might not know what they are or you might not like. Things like:

• Poultry by-product meal

• Corn gluten meal

• Soybean meal

• Dried bifidobacterium animalis fermentation product

• Natural flavors

Since the FDA doesn't regulate pet foods as much as it regulates human foods – and we already have a lot of shortcuts and tricky information in our own food – it can be very difficult to read the ingredients on a pet food label and understand what's truly in the food.

To be clear, most of the time, the ingredients are fine for your cat. It might not be the best possible food, but it's not likely to actively hurt them. The trouble is, you can't necessarily tell that, and there seems to be a scandal every year or two about pet food hurting pets.

You can customize their food if they have allergies or sensitive stomachs.

This is a big one. Unlike human food, where allergens need to be disclosed, including if it was produced in a facility that also handles allergens, you don't get that kind of quality assurance with cat foods.

If your cat has an allergy to a given ingredient, it can be hard to tell if a commercial cat food has that ingredient in it. Even if it doesn't, if it's made in the same facility as a food that does, it can end up cross-contaminated, and there's no way you can tell until your fur baby starts showing signs of digestive distress.

When you DIY some homemade cat food, you know everything that goes into it and everything that doesn't.

You can change the recipe when your cat gets tired of it.

Raise your hand if your cat is a picky eater and turns their nose up at food on a regular basis, even food they've enjoyed in the past.

Everyone? Alright, hands down.

Most cats are at least somewhat picky eaters, and even if they aren't actively dismissive of the food you give them, there's a good chance they'll just want to change things up from time to time. When you buy normal cat food in bulk, that's pretty hard; what are you going to do with the extra 20 lbs. of kibble if they won't touch it anymore?

When you make their food, it's easy enough to mix up the main protein or a couple of key ingredients to get something new for them to enjoy. You also don't need to make huge batches and let some of it go bad, and if they decide mid-batch they don't care for it, you can freeze it for later.

You can usually make cat food cheaper than buying their food.

Another benefit to making your own cat food is that it ends up being cheaper at the end of the day. Depending on the kind of food you're buying for your cat, it can cost anywhere from $1.50 to $7 per day. When you make your own, the cost of the ingredients will work out to be less than $1.50 per day, almost no matter what you want to do.

Obviously, this can vary depending on how you source your ingredients. People with local butchers or with lower costs for certain ingredients locally can come out further ahead.

People who have trouble sourcing key ingredients might be more comparable to cheaper commercial cat foods. In those cases, the difference in quality is important enough to balance the scales.

It does take time to make your own cat food, but honestly, less than you might think.

You can also often do it on the side while you're making food for yourself, so you don't need to spend a dedicated chunk of time making your cat's food. Even then, it's still fine for most people.

If all of that hasn't convinced you to start making DIY cat food, I don't know what will.

What Does DIY Cat Food Need to Include?

Cats are obligate carnivores, but that doesn't mean you can just grind up some chicken breasts and call it good enough. They still need enough nutrition, including vitamins, minerals, fiber, and other ingredients, which means you need a good list of what to include.

You'll want to include:

• A primary protein. Most people start with chicken, but a variety of different primary proteins can work. Pork, eggs, beef, and even more exotic meats like duck, quail, and others are all fine.

• Supplements. Often, the meat you choose won't have all of the nutrients your cat needs. Cats evolved to catch and eat whole prey like birds and mice, including things like bones, organs, and blood. You'll need to replace those with added supplements like taurine, fish oil, and omega-3s.

• Fiber. You don't need a lot of fiber for homemade cat food, but you should have some. A good option is barley powder, which is relatively cheap and serves as a good filler when used in moderation.

Some people recommend grinding up the bones of poultry. Your cat can benefit from the calcium and other nutrients in the bones, but you need to make sure not to cook them so they don't turn sharp and brittle.

Should you cook the protein? That's actually up to you and your cat. Some cats prefer cooked meat, while others like it raw. As long as you cook it without spices, you're fine.

Overcooking the meat can destroy some of the nutrients in it and make it less pleasant for your furry friend to eat, so most people start with raw meat. That said, raw meat does have the potential for bacterial contamination, so keep an eye out for signs of infection after starting a homemade raw cat food diet.

What Should You Leave Out of DIY Cat Food?

One of the benefits of making cat food at home is that it's easy to make a fairly simple recipe. There are a lot of things you generally want to leave out of the food you make, though.

First of all, make sure you avoid any of the human food ingredients that are toxic or bad for cats. I have a whole post about it here, but to replicate the list:

• Alcohols

• Yeasts

• Chocolate

• Coffee and Tea

• Citrus Fruits

• Coconut

• Dairy Products

• Grapes

• Eggs

• Alliums like Onions and Garlic

• Nuts

• Xylitol

• Tomatoes

• Salt

You also want to avoid fillers in excess. A little bit of fiber filler and carbohydrates are fine, but too much will end up hurting your cat in the long term, and that's what you're trying to avoid in the first place.

What about oils? Oils are a good way to get some healthy fats, vitamins, and supplemental nutrients into cat food, but you need to use them in moderation and only use the right kinds of oils. Fish oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, and flaxseed oil are fine, but don't use too much.

Should You Change DIY Cat Food Recipes?

I already mentioned this a little bit above, but there's a pretty good chance that your cat, even if they initially love the DIY cat food recipe you make, is going to get tired of it over time.

I generally recommend only making 1-2 weeks' worth of food at a time so that if they start to get tired of it, you don't have a lot of wasted food they won't eat.

You can change the recipe from time to time, so long as you're as close to nutritionally complete with each recipe as you can be.

What's a Good Recipe for DIY Cat Food?

There are as many recipes for DIY cat food as there are people making them.

Rather than reproduce any here, here are a few links to recipes you can read up on and decide if you want to use them:

• Beef and Barley Cat Food from Cats Magazine

• 5 Vet-Approved Homemade Cat Foods from Cats.com

• Two Options for Homemade Cat Food from Know Better Pet Food

As you can see, they're all pretty simple and don't require a lot of time, equipment, or expensive ingredients. It's easy enough to change them up to suit your fur baby's needs, too.

DIY Cat Food FAQ

Now, let's cover a few points I didn't have space for in the main post, as well as some questions I've been asked about DIY cat foods.

Is DIY cat food cheaper?

Almost always, yes, but various factors can cause the numbers to not quite line up.

If you're going for gourmet, organic meats and high-tier supplements to make your DIY cat food, it's going to be comparatively more expensive than other kinds of homemade cat food recipes. It can be comparable in expense to the cheaper or even mid-range cat foods you would buy at the store.

On the other hand, if you're normally feeding your cat expensive organic food because they have nutritional sensitivities or other issues, making your own food will pretty much always be cheaper.

If cost is your primary concern, consider keeping track of the price of ingredients and doing the math for yourself. It will probably work out in favor of homemade cat food!

Is DIY cat food better for cats?

If you make it right, yes!

This is one of the biggest issues, though.

Many commercial cat foods are engineered to be nutritionally complete, but they may also have excessive amounts of some nutrients or too much filler.

They might also just not be high quality. A lot of these pet foods tend to use scraps and refuse from other meat processing, so the starting ingredients aren't great, and the added nutrients are of lower quality to avoid being too expensive.

While they keep your cat fed, they might not keep your cat healthy. It's why obesity, kidney issues, and other problems can be common in our furry friends.

When you make your cat food at home, you have full control over the ingredients and can make it as high quality as you want. As long as you make sure you're giving them all of the nutrients they need, you'll be good. I recommend running your recipe by your vet to make sure it has everything your fur baby needs.

Should DIY cat food be different for cats of different ages?

Yes!

Kittens, adult cats, and senior cats all need different nutrition to stay healthy. Kittens need more calories and a different balance of nutrients to stay healthy and grow big and strong. Meanwhile, senior cats are more likely to have health issues that need a dietary adjustment.

The post above is pretty much entirely focused on otherwise healthy (or slightly obese) adult cats. Make sure to talk to your vet about homemade food for kittens or for senior cats with different health needs to guarantee that you're giving them what they need.

As always, if you have any questions about this article, please feel free to let me know! I'd be more than happy to help however I can!

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Cat grass is actually a treat for cats, but there's a lot to know about it, so let's give it a look!

What is Cat Grass?

Surprisingly enough, cat grass is exactly what it sounds like: it's grass. For cats!

No, seriously, that's pretty much all it is. There are a handful of different species of grass that have all been branded "cat grass" because it's not a species of grass; it's a category of product.

What makes it different from the grass you have outside? A lot of things, actually.

• The species. I said there are a handful of species of grass labeled cat grass, but the grass you have in your yard will probably be a different variety of grass, which is also probably quite regional to where you live.
• The consistency. Cat grass is a single pot with a single kind of grass in it. A yard is going to have a bunch of different kinds of plants, from clovers to flowers to weeds, and you never know what's safe and what isn't in that mix.
• The cleanliness. Cat grass grown on your own can be carefully controlled for what you put on it. Cat grass from a store likely only used some mild fertilizer, if anything, and is free from harmful pesticides and chemicals that your cat could ingest if they eat grass outside. Oops; spoilers for the purpose of cat grass there.

Cat grass is meant to be a safe way for a cat to indulge in certain urges, while getting some health benefits at the same time.

What Species is Cat Grass?

Cat grass can technically be any species of grass grown for use as a cat treat. Cat grass growers generally pick one of a few common grass species, however.

These species include:

• Arrhenatherum elatius, the oatgrass.
• Hordeum vulgare, the barley grass.
• Triticum aestivum, the wheatgrass.
• Lolium perenne, the ryegrass.

Sometimes, a packet of cat grass seeds might be a mixture of some or all of these rather than just one.

These are all generally known to be safe for cats to consume, and they're relatively fast and easy to grow without having to set up special care conditions. Cat grass can grow just fine with consistent watering and some light from a window, and you don't need much more than that.

What is Cat Grass Used For?

I already spoiled it up above, but it's basically just a treat for cats.

If you're wondering why grass, a plant, can be a treat for obligate carnivores (that is, meat-eaters), it's not actually something we know. There are some theories, though.

The biggest is just that cats were formerly wild animals, and wild animals need to stalk, hunt, and kill their prey to survive. Whether it's a lion hunting a wildebeest in the African savannahs or your neighbor's feral cat colony hunting the local population of songbirds, they pounce, they kill, and they eat what they kill.

Sometimes, a cat will take their prey back to where they live, to feed kittens (or to try to teach you how to hunt.) Other times, they just eat where they sit, if they feel comfortable enough in their position to do so.

Well, while a cat is chowing down on their prey right there in the grasslands or the yard, they aren't exactly being cautious with it. They're probably getting bits of grass in those bites, along with the meat of the creature they caught.

Over time, cats developed the habit of eating more grass after they ate their prey. As it turns out, evolutionarily speaking, cats that ate grass alongside their meals had less digestive upset, had an easier time coughing up hairballs and passing the little bones and hair and feathers caught in their systems, and were generally healthier. So, cats that ate grass passed that habit along, and now most cats have that urge to get a little grass in their diets.

What Are the Benefits of Cat Grass for Cats?

I already kind of mentioned some of these in that last paragraph, but let's go over them in a bit more detail.

Cat grass helps with digestion. This is especially true for cats that eat rodents or birds, because they're going to end up eating things like fur, feathers, and small bones that will otherwise mess with their digestive systems and need to be expelled. Cat grass helps handle these without causing more problems down the line.

Cat grass provides dietary fiber. Fiber is great for helping your fur baby absorb more water when they drink and for helping smooth out digestion in other ways. It's also very helpful for cats that are sick or have diarrhea, as it can help pull water out of their intestines and firm up their stool.

Cat grass contains trace vitamins and minerals. A variety of nutrients cats can use, including folic acid, vitamins A and D, and a handful of trace minerals, are all present in cat grass. Your cat can get what they need from the food you give them, but wild cats get some of it from grass as well, and the instinct to consume grass will stay even if your cat has robust food at home.

Cat grass can help soothe the stomach. Grass can also help steady your fur baby's stomach when they're eating, especially if they ate too fast and now they've got some tummy rumbles bothering them.

Cat grass might potentially help ease pain. Chlorophyll, the thing that makes plants green, has some antibiotic, anti-pain, and anti-inflammation properties. It's nowhere near strong enough to replace modern medicine, but it's something that can help a cat that just isn't feeling quite comfortable.

There's also some thinking that if a cat has internal parasites in the digestive system, like a tapeworm, the grass can actually wrap around and pull out that parasite. Again, it's not as valuable as an actual antiparasitic medication, but it's not nothing.

Other than the dietary and health benefits, there are a few behavioral benefits. Finding, playing with, and chewing on cat grass can be an enrichment activity, especially if you move where you keep the grass. Some people find that cats who eat cat grass have better breath. And, of course, if your cat is busy chewing on cat grass, they aren't eating the plants you want to keep around.

Is Cat Grass Safe for Cats?

Now we get to the biggest question: is cat grass even safe? After all, cats are prone to chew on all kinds of plants, including plants like the toxic houseplants I listed in this guide. So, if your cat can't instinctively know when a plant is safe or not, how do you know cat grass is safe?

Fortunately, the answer is yes.

Cat grass is a selection of grasses specifically chosen because they're fast-growing, hearty, can survive being chewed on, and are safe for cats to eat. It's a lot safer than any random house plants or, worse, the grass in your yard, which could have all sorts of chemicals on it, and you'd never know.

Just make sure to get your cat grass from a trustworthy source, or grow your own. It's quite easy to grow, even.

Are There Side Effects of Cat Grass?

Not really! If your cat eats way too much grass, then they might throw up some of it, but that's basically the worst that can happen.

How Can You Grow Your Own Cat Grass?

If you don't want to keep buying cat grass every few weeks when the current batch has been eaten down and dies, you'll want to get in the habit of growing your own. Fortunately, it's very simple. All you need is:

• Small pots, preferably durable, resilient pots that won't break if your cat knocks over a pot. Some people like heavy pots that can't be tipped over, and others resign themselves to cleaning up spilled dirt on occasion. It's up to you.
• Cat grass seeds, which can be bought at nearly any nursery or at any greenhouse online.
• Dirt. A generic seed starting blend is all you need, and you can buy large sacks of it for cheap.
• A spray bottle and a small watering can.
• A good source of light. If you don't have a convenient window to grow your cat grass, you'll want to invest in a small grow light.

To grow cat grass, fill a pot with soil and scatter some grass seeds across it. You don't need a ton, but you want enough to make the pot somewhat dense with plants. Cover the seeds in another quarter inch of soil and water it thoroughly. After this, keep the soil damp but not saturated. The seeds should sprout in around 3-7 days.

After that point, make sure they get bright light, and keep them misted with a spray bottle. Once the grass is around four inches tall, you can start giving it to your cat. Start new pots every couple of weeks, so you always have one ready to go; cat grass lasts for about two weeks before your cat will either have eaten it down or it will die back on its own.

Alternatively, you can check out some of our products:

• Cat Grass Growing Kit
• Cat Grass Growing Kit Plus
• Cat Grass Growing Kit Ultimate

These kits give you everything you need to grow grass, including pots, substrate, seeds, and a spray bottle, as well as instructions on how to grow the grass and when to give it to your fur baby. We make it easy for you!

Cat Grass FAQs

Now, let's answer some of the more common questions I've seen about cat grass. If you have one that I didn't cover above, feel free to ask it in the comments, and I'll get back to you!

Are cat grass and catnip the same thing?

Not at all! Catnip is distantly related to mint and contains a chemical called nepetalactone, which is the one that drives cats wild if they're receptive to it. I have a whole guide to catnip here if you're interested in learning more. Cat grass, meanwhile, is a cereal grain plant when it's still young. Wheat, barley, rye, and oats are all cat grasses. If those plants survived long enough to seed, you'd be able to harvest those grains!

Are there different kinds of cat grass?

Yes and no. While there are different species of grasses that are called cat grass, they're all more or less the same kind of thing. All cat grasses are cereal grain plants when they're young and tender enough for a cat to enjoy taking a nibble.

Is cat grass safe to give your cats?

Yes, assuming it's actually cat grass. This is why you need to buy it from a reputable seller or grow your own. If you're buying from someone you don't know or trust, you never know if the plants you grow are actually cat grass or if they're something else that could potentially be toxic.

Additionally, you need to make sure you aren't just letting your cat out to chew on your yard. You never know what kinds of parasites, insects, chemicals, or poisons in the soil can seep into or linger on the plants in your yard, and they can make your fur baby sick. Stick with controlled grass indoors, please!

Will cat grass help prevent your cats from chewing on other plants?

Possibly! Your cat is going to explore and chew on whatever they want, so the goal is to make sure the cat grass is easier and more accessible to them whenever they want to chew on some greenery. If they can wander to their favorite sunny windowsill and find some cat grass, they're a lot more likely to be content with it when the alternative is breaking into a closed room and finding a high shelf with your other plants.

Did I miss any questions you may have about cat grass? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you with an answer as soon as possible!

It's an unfortunate fact that not all cats and dogs have pet parents to care for them. In particular, stray cats can be found in pretty much every location around the world, making a living for themselves hunting rodents, lounging in barns, and approaching the friendliest neighbors – cautiously – when they want something.

Most neighborhoods have a few people who are willing to feed and care for these stray kitties, but it's important that you do it properly. Otherwise, you could be putting them at risk. So, what should you do, what should you avoid, and what's the best way to care for our outside friends when we can't just adopt them and bring them in?

Quick Definition: Stray vs Feral

Throughout this post, I'm going to refer to both stray and feral cats. Many people use both terms interchangeably, but there's actually an important difference.

Stray cats are generally friendly and, while they may be shy or skittish, can warm up to you and come in for affection. They may be lost pets, abandoned and unwanted litters, or just neighborhood outdoor cats that like to hang out with the other strays. These may have homes and may even have microchips and can be reunited, or they might just be prime candidates for adoption.

Ferals, meanwhile, have never been domesticated and are generally very skittish, standoffish, and aggressive. While some can be adopted and eventually warm up to people, most won't want anything to do with you beyond the food and water you provide.

Otherwise, most of the tips and best practices below are the same, so you can think of them in the same terms.

Know the Risks of Feeding Stray Cats

The biggest thing you need to know about feeding stray cats is what the risks are and how you can avoid them.

First is disease. Disease is one of the greatest dangers that stray and feral cats face living on their own. Diseases can spread quickly in a cat colony, and since there's no one who can take them to the vet when they have the sniffles or the runs, those diseases can last for quite a while. Some run their course, but others can be life-threatening or fatal.

It's in our nature to want to help these fur babies, but it's difficult to do so, especially if they're feral and won't approach you. You'll have a hard time catching them to bring them in, and there's always the expense of veterinary care for animals who don't live with you.

This is all relevant to feeding because diseases can spread due to food and water sources as much as through contact. One of the biggest things you should do is designate feeding times and never leave food out for extended periods. The same goes for water; the colony or the stray will need a source of water, but stagnant water – especially if it's shared by multiple felines – can be a vector for disease.

Next up is the risk of predators. Depending on where you live, there could be anything from mountain lions to coyotes to even bears in the area. Leaving food out attracts more than just the cat colony, and the cat colony can attract predators. Know what's in your area, and if a predator is lurking about, talk to your local animal control or DNR office for options.

Third, you have the risk of human sources of danger. This can mean an irate, unfriendly neighbor who doesn't take kindly to the local cats, but the majority of the time, it just means cars. The location you choose to use for feeding should be away from roads and ideally in the same block or area as the place where the cats tend to take shelter; you want to minimize their road crossings when you can.

Finally, there's also the small risk to you and your fur babies. Stray cats are usually more affectionate, though they might be territorial and get into scuffles with other pets. Ferals, meanwhile, are much more territorial, defensive, and potentially aggressive and can even scratch or bite you if you get too close. Be cautious, and make sure to get any wounds looked at in case they get infected.

What if a neighbor's cat comes to eat?

This one is tricky. You want to help support the local stray and feral cats, but you don't want to get in the way of a controlled diet or other health concerns for neighbor cats. But, it can be impossible to single out one cat from a group and tell it not to join in the buffet, after all.

Ideally, the best option is to talk to your neighbor about the issue and encourage them to keep their cat inside when you're feeding the strays. But this is always a tricky problem to handle, so just do your best.

Food and Water: Proper Routine and Care for Stray Cats

The core of the issue is providing food and water for the cats you find in your neighborhood. Frequently, you see people leaving food out all hours of the day, but that's actually not a good idea for a few reasons.

First, when you leave food out for an extended period, it can go bad. Dry food can get soggy and rot, although wet food spoils very quickly. It can also attract bugs, including parasites that would harm the local strays. And, of course, leaving food out – particularly at night – can attract other kinds of animals, like possums and raccoons, who will be more than happy to make nuisances of themselves to claim the food.

Instead, establish a feeding routine. Most stray cats need about half an hour to eat, but you can allocate a bit more time, including extra leeway, if there's a larger cat colony rather than just a single stray to feed. So, pick a time when you can reliably provide food every day, and pick a location (which I'll go into more momentarily.)

From there, you need to start feeding the cats according to their preferences. Some cats won't want you around, while others won't mind. Ideally, you'll be able to observe them and can look for signs of illness or injury. Feeding time is a key time to check on the health of the local outdoor cat population.

What should you feed the cats? That depends on your resources and the local weather. In the summer, when it's hot, wet food will spoil rapidly and can dry out quickly. Dry food is more resistant to summer bugs and weather and ends up being a better option. In more temperate months, wet food is more acceptable, though the expense involved can make it less than ideal for a larger colony of stray and feral cats.

Truthfully, dry food is entirely nutritious enough for cats to live on, and they're probably supplementing their food with local rodents and birds anyway. You don't need to provide wet food for stray cats unless, for some reason, they won't eat dry food at all. However, in that case, they likely have some kind of problem (like a tooth infection) and should be caught and taken to a vet as well.

Location, location, location.

Picking the right location to feed your local strays is a big part of keeping them safe. You want somewhere away from roads and busy streets. You want somewhere on your property – since you don't want to get into trouble for trespassing to feed cats – and it should be somewhere relatively discreet and secure. Often, old sheds or barns make for good feeding areas. Shelter is ideal, but you can also make feeding stations out of plastic storage containers with a hole cut in the side, so they have somewhere secure and dry to eat.

Cats are also frequently creatures of habit, so you want to pick a time each day – during daylight hours – to feed the cats. Once they know where food is and when you bring it, they'll form a habit of coming when you show up or being there waiting for you, depending on how friendly they are.

What about water?

Fresh water is critical for all living things, and stray cats are no exception. There are a lot of different ways to provide clean water, but the easiest is just a series of water dishes that you empty and refill daily and clean regularly.

If it gets below freezing where you live, you may also want to find an insulated, warmer place for the water or purchase heated water bowls to keep the water liquid for the cats.

Is it Ethical or Legal to Feed Stray Cats?

We're all compassionate individuals, but many people feel that stray cats and feral cats are a nuisance and a pest. And, to be fair to those people, outdoor-living cats are responsible for a marked reduction in local bird populations. They can be noisy, they can bully the neighborhood's indoor/outdoor cat population, and in rare cases, an aggressive cat can cause more problems. They can even attract predators to a neighborhood.

There are solutions to all of these problems, but that doesn't mean people don't try to take matters into their own hands in other ways. So, let's go over the realities of the situation.

Is it ethical to feed stray and feral cats? Well, yes, mostly. Stray cats certainly impact the local ecosystem, but they're going to do that either way and by feeding them, you at least help reduce their need to hunt for food. No one likes to see an animal suffer, either, so helping stray cats not starve is good.

Is it legal to feed stray cats? That's where things get a little more complicated. It's not federally illegal, and as far as I'm aware, there are no state-level bans on feeding stray and feral cats. There may be city or town-level laws against it, but 99% of the time, the authority that bans feeding is a homeowner's association. Even then, you may be able to convince them otherwise. How? By presenting them with the research.

According to Feline Research, feeding stray and feral cats is a key step in solving basically every problem people complain about with regard to feeding.

• "Feeding strays will attract more, keep them around being a nuisance, and bother people!" Well, not really. Feeding stray cats actually helps keep them out of trouble since they don't get as desperate and don't need to dig through other homes or bug other people. It isn't as though those cats are going to go away; they'll just turn to other options.
• "Feeding attracts more strays, and more strays means more risk of injury as the cats fight!" Again, not really. One of the main reasons cats fight is over resources, and stray cats have no greater resource than a source of food. When there's enough food for everyone, the conflict goes down.
• "Encouraging a stray cat population hurts the local wildlife and can spread disease!" While this is technically true, it ignores the fact that there's more to it than just feeding these cats. You should also be working with local animal authorities for TNVR programs (more on that in a moment).
• "Feeding cats encourages them to gather, breed, and make more cats, causing a population explosion and hurting them all!" This is true if all you're doing is feeding them, but again, TNVR.

What is TNVR? TNVR stands for Trap, Neuter, Vaccinate, and Release. Most areas have local vets and animal shelters that participate in these programs. The concept is simple: you feed the strays and get them to be comfortable enough around you to be trapped, or for the more skittish ferals, you get them used to a particular area, then set up a trap and bring them in. Then, you bring them to your local vet or shelter, who will check them for chips, give them vaccines, perform a spay or neutering, and when they've recovered, release them back where they were.

The vaccination helps prevent the spread of feline diseases, and the spay/neuter surgery helps prevent them from making more stray cats. Plus, the more sociable of these cats can be kept around and adopted, and it's always possible you'll find a lost pet with a chip and can reunite them with their pet parents.

So, should you feed the local stray fur babies? The answer is yes, as long as you aren't going to get in trouble with your HOA (or you're willing to deal with that trouble), and you will help with local TNVR efforts.

Have you ever fed a stray cat before? If so, what was your experience like, and how did you go about it? I'd love to hear all your stories, so be sure to leave those in the comments section down below!

At least, that is, when they aren't in playtime mode, just hunting for the joy of hunting, and they aren't making mistakes, slipping on the hardwood, sliding into walls, or missing the mark entirely.

Alright, so our fur babies aren't always the ferocious predators they were when they first evolved. But that's okay! We love them and pamper them just the same. They no longer need to hunt for their very survival every day.

Of course, this really makes you think. Are they losing out or missing something?

Truthfully, the answer is… maybe.

The Perils of the Modern Feline Diet

As it stands right now, our fur babies don't need to hunt for food, but that doesn't mean they're satisfied with what they get. When we buy food off the shelves, whether it's dry food or canned wet food, we do our best to make sure they're getting what they need.

The trouble is, all too often, these foods aren't quite right. They may have fillers in them that your cat can't quite digest or that they digest but aren't really very healthy for them. That's not even considering the issues with contaminated foods or foods where the manufacturers cut corners. We're talking about the higher-quality foods here.

In fact, two of the most common diseases our feline friends suffer from today are linked to their diets.

• Obesity. It's easy to over-feed and over-eat, and cats – who aren't used to the fillers and additives in the foods, the caloric density, and the ingredients themselves – put on more weight than they would in nature. Moreover, without needing to hunt for it, they don't necessarily burn as many of those calories, so they build up and lead to an overweight feline. Sadly, as funny and adorable as a chonker is, it's not healthy or good for them.
• Diabetes mellitus. Diabetes is a problem with processing blood sugar, and it's an epidemic amongst many different species, including both people and cats. Cats are obligate carnivores – they have to eat meat to survive – and that means they're more susceptible to fillers and carbohydrates in their food causing problems with insulin, leading to diabetes.

Since these diseases are so tied to diet and they're so common, vets and scientists have been spending a lot of time studying how cats eat naturally to see if there are ways we can improve their diets to help eliminate the risk of these diseases.

"Carbohydrate levels in commercial diets are often much too high. Cats have not evolved to digest high amounts of starches, only obtaining a small amount of partially digested matter from the stomach contents of their prey. They have insufficient enzymes in their saliva and pancreas glands to process these complex sugars, and will often overeat, leading to a multitude of problems." – NP Vet Group.

What Natural Feeding Isn't

Natural feeding is a response to the artificial diets we've been feeding cats as a society for decades, but there can be some misconceptions around the name. So, first, let's talk a bit about what natural feeding isn't before we get into what it is.

Some people think that natural feeding involves buying prey animals to let your cat hunt and eat on their own. People buy "pinkies" for snakes and lizards, after all. Isn't it the same sort of thing for cats?

Well, not really. For one thing, pinkies – which are baby mice, named such because they don't even have fur yet – are already dead. Cats hunt things that are alive and moving and aren't going to put much effort into or have much interest in already dead food. They'll eat it if they have to, but it's not the kind of natural hunting you might think of when you think of a cat stalking prey.

There are also the ethical considerations. Most people don't think twice about the source of the ingredients in their cat's food, but when you're buying animals to feed to your cat, the abstraction is removed, and you see it in front of you, and it might not feel very good. Of course, imposing human ethics on nature isn't always a good idea. That's how you end up with bad cat parents forcing their felines to go vegan, and that's a terrible idea.

Fortunately, natural feeding doesn't actually involve hunting at all. It's all about what you feed, not how you feed.

Besides, natural hunting for cats is also full of risks.

• Prey can fight back. Birds have beaks and talons, rodents can bite and scratch, and insects can sting. Every hunt is a risk, and cats in the wild are routinely injured in the hunt. Even small injuries can result in infections as well. Obviously, we don't want that for our domestic felines.
• Prey can carry diseases and parasites. While you wouldn't get this if you were buying food-bred prey animals for your cat, cats in the wild are always at risk of eating something that gives them worms, fleas, or another disease.

Luckily, this isn't what we mean when we talk about natural feeding at all.

Natural feeding also doesn’t automatically mean raw feeding, though it is an option. We’ll get into that more later.

How Natural Feeding for Cats Works

Natural feeding is all about coming up with a diet that most closely mimics what a cat needs to be healthy, based on two things: habits and content.

Habits mean how they eat. We humans tend to eat 2-3 big meals in a day, or one big meal and snacks throughout the day. That's not necessarily natural; as hunter-gatherers, we likely foraged and ate small amounts throughout the day, with "big meals" being a rarity.

While cats often live in colonies, they are solo hunters, and they are used to having a warm meal.

They also tend to hunt whenever the opportunity strikes, and since their prey is small, they frequently need to hunt multiple times in a day. Hunts also fail, and the prey gets away. Combined, this means that cats are similar in that they would eat smaller, more frequent meals than we people usually give them.

Content means what they eat. Cats, being obligate carnivores, get all the nutrients they need from a combination of protein and fat – that is to say, meat. Very little of what they eat involves carbohydrates or dietary fiber, and while they'll certainly chew on grass and plants for both flavor and digestive purposes, it's a very small part of their diet.

"One study looked at how feral cats get their food. It showed that a "typical" feral cat will kill and eat approximately nine mice throughout the day, with a number of unsuccessful hunts scattered in as well. Another paper revealed that feral cats got 52% of their calories from protein and 46% from fat, which only leaves 2% available to come from carbohydrates.

So, left to their own devices, cats will eat multiple small meals throughout the day that are high in protein, high in fat, and low in carbohydrates. But that's not all. These cats have to work to get their food. Their behavior is characterized by periods of rest broken up by short bursts of relatively intense activity." - PetMD.

Another part of feeding, water consumption. While cats in the wild get most of their water content from the food they eat, when they do drink, they naturally avoid stagnant water to avoid illness. The moving water that they choose is not confined to a small bowl, which for some cats can cause whisker fatigue.

So, natural feeding means feeding your cat smaller, more frequent meals and making sure the food they eat is nutritionally balanced for their needs. You want a food that's high in protein, moderately high in fat, and very low in carbohydrates.

You have two options here: you can make your own cat food, or you can buy a food designed with natural feeding in mind. Even "good" commercial cat foods tend to be higher in carbohydrates than a cat should really have, though, so it can be tricky to find something good for your furry friend. Wet food is also preferable because cats get a lot of their water requirements from it and might not drink enough if they primarily eat kibble and dry foods.

Key Takeaways for Naturally Feeding Your Cat

• Provide smaller, more frequent meals
• Feed a high meat-based protein, moderate fat, and low carbohydrate food
• Serve the meal slightly warmed
• Have a good play session before each meal
• Provide a water fountain for fresh moving water

Building a Healthy Natural Feeding Meal

Odds are you have a job and maybe a family to tend to, so becoming a servant to your cat (well more than you already are) can be a challenge.

If you have the time and financial means you may want to consider switching from a traditional canned wet food to a raw or homemade diet. Natural feeding isn’t an all or nothing concept, you can always make small changes to your feeding process.

Given a cat’s need for a high protein diet, I don’t recommend feeding dry food, though it can be a great option to use as a treat since it’s lower in calories compared to traditional treats.

Raw and Homemade Diets

Unsurprisingly, a lot goes into a healthy diet for your fur baby. Unfortunately, many people think meat is meat and assume a ground chicken, turkey, or beef from the grocery store is going to be good enough. Even store-bought fish isn't good enough on its own.

"Many people mistake raw pet meats and minces available from their supermarket or pet shop as being a complete food. This is often not the case, with many just being minced muscle meat only, severely lacking in the important minerals and vitamins required to keep a cat healthy. This puts your cat at risk of developing nutritional diseases. Some pet minces also contain sulphur-based preservatives, which not only have been linked to asthma in cats but also inactivate some important B vitamins. Fish also contains some enzymes which can reduce the availability of essential thiamine in the diet." – NP Vet Group.

So, what do you do?

Rotate through different meats throughout the week. Chicken and fish are both good options and for a third, you might consider locating a source of something like rabbit or even a "pest" meat like possum or a rodent. If you can't find it, that's fine, but you'll want to keep to a lower amount of beef or pork than you would the meats your cat would be more likely to encounter in the wild.

See if you can source whole meats instead of just muscle meats. A working relationship with a butcher can be great here. Your goal would be to get ground meat that has calcium from ground bones in it and nutrient-rich marrow as well. You won't find this for human consumption, though.

Get your cat started on raw "meaty bones" occasionally. The two most common and useful here are chicken wings and chicken necks. The bones are just the right size that your cat can strip the meat off them without risking hurting themselves chewing on the bones, and raw bones aren't as splintery or prone to danger as cooked bones.

Add in some organ meat from time to time. Heart meat is great for cats – it's high in taurine, a nutrient cats need to live. Liver, meanwhile, can be dangerous in high amounts, so only give your cat a little bit at a time.

Other tips:

• Make your cat food regularly. Keeping it frozen for too long reduces its nutrient profile, particularly in vitamins.
• Don't leave food out for long. Meat goes bad, obviously, and you don't want to have a bowl of rotting meat sitting around.
• Avoid meats with preservatives, especially if you're starting with ground meats or minces. It can be worthwhile to invest in a food processor or meat grinder yourself instead.
• Take it slow. Adapting a cat from a kibble diet to a natural feeding diet can be time-consuming if they don't take to it right away. You may also need to lightly poach or cook the meat initially.
• Add in supplements or meal completers. It’s incredibly important to ensure your kitty is getting all of the nutrients necessary to keep their body operating in optimal form, so if their raw diet is lacking in any area, be sure to supplement their food. Some common supplements include, vitamin E, fiber, omega 3, and taurine.

WARNING: Feeding a raw diet can introduce harmful bacteria into your household including, but not limited to salmonella and listeria. If you opt to feed a raw diet to your kitty, ensure you practice impeccable food safety practices when handling all meat. You’ll also want to ensure you only purchase high quality, fresh meat, as bacteria and germs can flourish in uncooked meat.

Commercially Prepared Diets

I’m including this section, because as I noted above, a natural diet doesn’t have to be all or nothing.

If you’re currently feeding dry only, add wet food into the mix, or if you can, transition primarily or fully to wet food.

Canned wet foods come in many different levels of quality, so before picking one it’s important to read the label. Remember you’re looking for a wet food that is primarily animal protein based, which means at the very least, the first ingredient should be an animal source.

There are also some freshly prepared cooked options available through mail order. These meals are a great alternative if you don’t have time to make a homemade diet as they already include the necessary nutrients to ensure your kitty is getting a balanced diet.

Fresh meals also tend to be made in small batches right here in the US but be sure to learn about the quality and source of the ingredients.

Above all, though, make sure you talk to a vet about this potential dietary shift. Some cats, especially older cats with health issues or a predilection for them, may need special care when shifting to a natural feeding diet. Others may need special supplements or medications to help keep them healthy, particularly those who normally eat special formulated foods.

Natural feeding can be a great way to keep a cat happier and healthier and give them a longer and more fulfilling life. So, if you're interested in learning more about natural feeding diets, there are plenty of resources available. And if you have any questions, feel free to ask me in the comments!

Check out this adorable bread obsessed kitty:

While some of this is clearly adorable behavior from a hungry little predator, sometimes there may be a bit more of a sinister undertone.

Sharing a little fish or chicken, usually not a big deal. Cats are obligate carnivores, they have to eat meat to survive, and your meat is definitely tasty.

Bread, though? Can they eat that?

You can put that particular fear to rest: cats can safely eat plain bread without many issues, though they don't need the carbs, so it’s not something nutritional beneficial for them.

Like any treat, it should be held in moderation for the overall health of your furry friend.

Not all human foods are safe for feline consumption, though. Today we’re going to review some of the more common types of food we may have in our homes that should never make their way into your cat's system.

It’s worth mentioning that many of these foods have different toxicity levels. Toxicity can mean anything from digestive upset all the way to death. In many cases a very small amount won’t be fatal but read on to learn more.

1: Alcohol

This one should come as no surprise. After all, alcohol is a toxin for people, too; that buzz you feel after a glass or two of wine is a side effect of being, well, poisoned.

It's just socially acceptable for people to do a little self-harm as a tasty treat in this particular instance.

Cats, though, have neither the social support and cultural mores nor the body mass necessary to handle alcohol. Even a little of the stuff can lead to dangerous complications and even death.

Signs of alcohol toxicity:

These can occur as soon as 15-30 minutes after ingestion.

• Lethargy
• Lack of coordination
• Drooling
• Vomiting
• Weakness/Collapse
• Decreased respiratory rate
• Hypothermia (low body temperature)

Many cat parents mistakenly believe that so long as they avoid directly giving alcohol to their cats, the risk of alcohol poisoning is non-existent.

The truth of the matter is that there are many ubiquitous sources of alcohol around the house that might potentially put their cats at risk:

Ethanol — Common sources of ethanol include alcoholic drinks, desserts flavored with alcohol, fermented fruits, unbaked yeast dough, some liquid medications, and mouth washes.
Methanol — The most common sources of methanol include windshield fluids, some gasoline additives, and some paint solvents.
Isopropanol — This alcohol has twice the potency of ethanol or methanol. Common sources include 70 percent rubbing alcohol, hand sanitizer, glass cleaners, perfumes or colognes, detergents, antifreeze, and some grooming products or flea sprays. | Animal Emergency Care

2: Yeast

Anything you’re making with yeast in it is a one-two punch of danger for a cat.

Raw yeast alone is unpleasant because it can grow in your cat's digestive system, releasing gasses that cause uncomfortable bloating and digestive issues.

Moreover, yeasts often produce alcohol as a byproduct, and we just covered how dangerous those can be.

Note that this only means active yeasts; a baked bread, even if yeast is an ingredient, has had that yeast killed by the heat of baking and is thus safer.

Signs of yeast dough ingestion include:

• Bloat
• Unsuccessful attempts to vomit that result in nothing or a little white foam
• Enlarged abdomen
• Tremors
• Weakness
• Increased heart rate
• Collapse

If you bake bread at home, or in a facility that hosts cats, make sure to never leave dough out to rise in a place that is within a cat’s reach.

“A key part of baking bread is giving it time to rise (proof). While proofing dough may not look appetizing to people, it may to pets. It’s important not to leave dough out to rise in an area accessible by dogs and cats, including countertops.” | ASPCA Pro.org

3: Chocolate

Chocolate has a few different substances called methylxanthines, which are derived from xanthine as a base.

Several different chemicals fall into this category, including two you're more likely to be familiar with: theobromine and caffeine.

Both of these are mildly beneficial to people but can have dangerous effects on animals, including cats.

Caffeine can lead to seizures, tremors, and death if consumed by cats (and dogs), so you should keep your chocolate treats locked away. The darker the chocolate, the worse it is, too.

Story time: One Halloween a few years back, I purchased some bags of mixed chocolate bars and left them on the counter. When I got home from work, I found the bag ripped open and several of the chocolate bars had been sampled. I’m not just talking about teeth marks. Some of the chocolate was clearly eaten. The guilty party was fine, and I learned it’s not just dogs that break into candy stashes.

Signs of chocolate toxicity:

• Hyperactivity
• Restlessness
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Increased thirst
• Elevated heart rate
• Tremors
• Hyperthermia (elevated body temperature)

4-5: Coffee and Tea

While you probably enjoy a nice cup of coffee or tea in the mornings to get you up and moving, that caffeine is just as dangerous to your cat as it is when it's in chocolate.

Black or green tea is known to cause liver and gastrointestinal organ damage in cats.

While you may read on other blogs that catechins are beneficial to your cat and that it’s ok to give your cat black or green tea so long as you cat is healthy and isn’t fasting, we highly advise you consult with your veterinarian before giving tea to your fur baby.

To be on the safe side, don't let your fur baby have a cuppa joe, no matter how much they beg and whine about it. They probably just want your attention, not your treat, anyway.

Be careful, too; even "decaf" drinks still have some natural caffeine in them. It's below the threshold where a human will feel it, but cats are much smaller than people and, thus, much more sensitive to smaller amounts of these substances.

Read More Cat Wellness Guides

• How to Buy Catnip for Cats
• FAQ: Can You Give Cats Human Grade CBD Oil?

A lick or two of your coffee or tea usually isn’t a big deal, but after the first time, be sure to keep your beverages supervised.

I had to switch to a travel mug when I worked from home after I caught my angel Moo with his head in my cup of tea. Luckily, nothing happened but I got really scared.

Many pet parents may be unaware of dangerous sources of caffeine laying around the house. Some overlooked sources of caffeine that may put your cat in danger include:

• Sodas
• Energy or sports drinks
• Diet pills
• Over the counter pain medications
• Over the counter energy boosting pills Your favorite candy bar may also contain caffeine.
• Chocolate (with that fun crinkling wrapper?)
• Coffee flavored ice creams (that bowl you left in the sink without rinsing)

6-8: Lemons, Oranges, and Grapefruits

Citrus fruits, in general, are bad for cats. Two particular substances in the citrus cause issues: citric acid and citrus oils naturally found in the peels and throughout the fruits.

These substances can lead to upset stomachs and digestive unrest, as well as central nervous system depression, which is a lot worse than it sounds (and isn't related to mental health.)

Luckily, most cats don't like the scent of citrus and will stay away from it on their own, which is why citrus scents are often used as deterrents for cat training.

9: Coconut

Coconut oil is a common item in holistic medicine, and there's a small amount of evidence to suggest that it can help cats out with certain coat issues, largely relating to vitamin deficiencies.

Contrary to what you may read all over the internet about the health benefits for your cat, caution should be exercised with coconut.

A quick search of coconut for cats will result in a lot of affiliate marketing sites trying to sell you on hundreds of products. Beware!

Here is what the Drake Center for Veterinary care says about credible and unsubstantiated claims on coconut benefits for your cat:

Coconut oil claims with no credible basis based on what we currently know include: Cancer prevention, dental calculus and periodontal disease prevention, weight loss, thyroid dysfunction; Claims that may have a credible basis include: Dry skin, wound healing, atopic dermatitis | The Drake Center for Veterinary Care

My best advice is that if you’re going to try supplementing with coconut oil, make sure it’s food grade and always talk with your vet first. It can cause digestive issues, so it’s always best to start with a small amount to see how your kitty responds.

Last, but not least, the flesh and milk of the coconut are high in potassium so they should always be avoided.

10: Dairy

Any of you out there who are lactose intolerant know how unpleasant it can be to have some cheese, milk, yogurt, or other dairy products in a meal.

Even a surprisingly small amount can lead to ongoing digestive problems, unpleasant bloating, gas, and other issues.

Well, you may have heard that humans are relatively unique in that we're one of the only species that can enjoy dairy after childhood. It should be no surprise, then, to find that most cats are lactose intolerant.

But then, why do cats like milk and dairy?

“The parts of the diary product that your cat has interest for are fat and protein. They can smell the fat and protein in dairy products and will be attracted by it. There can be a lot of both fat and protein in milk, cheese and yoghurt.” | Charlottesville Cat Care Clinic

Unfortunately, that stereotype of giving a stray cat a saucer of milk or whipped cream does a lot more harm than good.

It's not good for them, and while it won't kill them, it won't be pleasant for them or whoever has to clean up after them. Not to mention that giving your cat milk can cause an unbalanced diet and lead weight gain.

A tiny bite of cheese now and then is usually well tolerated, but anything more than that is begging for trouble.

11: Grapes

Grapes (and raisins, which are just dehydrated grapes) are a somewhat confusing fruit.

Unlike other foods, which have well known compounds that cause toxicity, grapes are a bit of a mystery. They also tend to be associated as just bad for dogs as most cats aren’t attracted to them.

“There are dogs who have had issues after only a few grapes and some who do not have any issues until they eat a whole bag of them. Because the mechanism of toxicity is unknown, the best answer is no grapes for either your cats or your dogs.” - Embrace Pet Insurance Director of Claims Jenna Mahan

Since science hasn't yet figured out what the compound cause problems such as sudden kidney failure, most veterinarians recommend to keep them away from both cats and dogs.

Lethargy and seizures are common symptoms seen in dogs that have consumed grapes, so head straight to the vet if your kitty sampled some grapes and exhibit these symptoms.

12: Eggs

Let me begin this section by saying well cooked eggs, without added seasonings are perfectly safe for cats. They are a good source of protein and are often seen as an ingredient in wet cat food.

Raw eggs on the other hand are not safe for cats. Because chickens can carry salmonella their uncooked eggs are also a risk for spreading the bacteria.

Need another reason not to feed your cat raw eggs? If they get salmonella, they can pass it on to you!

So keep in mind, if your cat is a counter surfer, like some of mine were, make sure to never leave anything with raw eggs unattended, including the empty shells.

13-14: Onions and Garlic

I don’t know about you, but I love to cook with both onions are garlic. They bring so much delicious flavor to foods.

Those delicious smells that waft from the kitchen can also be appealing to your fur baby. The thing is both onions are garlic are toxic to cats.

Onions and garlic are both alliums, along with hundreds of other species. Other alliums include chives, shallots, leeks, and scallions (and really, anything with that oniony smell to it). There are also hundreds of inedible ornamental alliums grown as flowers.

Unfortunately, all of these are bad for your fur baby. In addition to digestive troubles, alliums can cause damage to red blood cells and lead to anemia.

“Allium spp can cause Heinz body formation, methemoglobinemia, agglutination, and hemoglobinuria. Cats are more sensitive to Allium toxicosis than dogs. In addition to anemia, small animals may exhibit GI signs, including anorexia, vomiting, and diarrhea. The anorexia often occurs 1 day before the hemolysis.” | Malinda E. Wallis, BS, CVT | ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center

Some are worse than others, too; garlic is 3 to 5 times more toxic than onions for a cat.

Signs of garlic or onion toxicity:

• Vomiting
• Lethargy
• Increased heart rate
• Blood in urine

15-17: Almonds, Pecans, and Walnuts

Nuts, in general, are bad for cats. Some, like macadamia nuts, cause problems similar to those caused by grapes (and are similarly not understood by veterinary science as of yet).

Others, like almonds and walnuts, are just high in natural fats and oils. These fats and oils aren't really necessary to your cat's health and can cause digestive problems, as well as pancreatitis, a very painful condition.

18: Xylitol

Everything else on this list is a food, so what is this chemical doing here? Well, xylitol is a sugar alcohol, which should already tell you a lot of what you need to know… or should it?

A "sugar alcohol" isn't really an alcohol and doesn't work in the same way. Instead, it's a lot more like sugar! Xylitol is one of the most common "healthy" sugar substitutes found in most sugar-free foods these days.

There is firm evidence that xylitol is wildly toxic to dogs (and is a big reason why peanut butter treats for dogs need to be vetted first), but there is some debate on whether or not it’s also toxic for cats.

Here's what the FDA says about xylitol for pets in general:

Some food and drink items that you consider tasty treats may be dangerous for your pet. As tempting as it might be to share your food or drink with your four-legged friend, please resist! Some of the more hazardous edible items include:… Xylitol (a sweetener found in products such as some sugar-free chewing gum, sugar-free candy, cough syrup, mouthwash, and toothpaste)” | U.S Food and Drug Administration

What's not clear is whether the pet group includes cats as well.

A study published in the National Library of Medicine about the effects of xylitol in cats, observed no effects of toxicity in cats.

“Xylitol is commonly used as sugar substitute in households. While it has numerous beneficial effects on human health, it is highly toxic to dogs. The goal of this study was to examine whether xylitol has similar deleterious effects, such as hypo glycaemia and acute hepatic failure, on cats…Based on our results, xylitol did not induce toxic effects on cats.”

There are a number of reasons for the debate, many cats aren’t interested in consuming products that typically contain xylitol, so there isn’t much documented to show their response.

Because xylitol causes drastic blood sugar level drops in dogs and even liver failure, I’ve added it to this list as a precaution. I would keep products containing xylitol away from diabetic kitties and older cats that have other health issues.

Until we know more about how cats are affected, it’s best to err on the side of caution.

19: Tomato Stems and Plants

Okay, so this one isn't quite like the rest on this list, but it's still something you might have around the house. Tomatoes, when ripe, are perfectly fine for your fur baby. The leaves, stems, and rest of the plant, as well as unripe tomatoes, are dangerous, though.

Tomato is a kind of nightshade, which is a common toxic plant that was even used as a poison in centuries past.

“Ingestion of the greenery, flowers, and green fruit can cause clinical problems in dogs and cats…Clinical signs include gastrointestinal (GI) upset, cardiac effects, and central nervous system signs (e.g., ataxia, muscle weakness, tremors, seizures), resulting from cholinesterase inhibition.” - Malinda E. Wallis, BS, CVT | ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center

Fun fact: potatoes, eggplants, and tobacco are all nightshades as well!

So, if you like to grow your own fruits and veggies, but also have a kitty that likes to chew on plants, tomatoes should be kept off limits.

20: Salty Meats and Treats

Cats may need meat in their diet but feeding them bacon or salami is likely going to be a problem. It's not the meat itself that's the problem here; it's the preservative: salt. Salt is necessary in small amounts for cats, dogs, and people, but in large amounts, it can cause a lot of problems.

Unfortunately, salt is a very effective preservative and flavor enhancer, so it's in just about everything, which is why so many people have blood pressure issues. Cats, being smaller and more sensitive, can develop hypernatremia from an excess of salt.

“Large amounts of salt can produce excessive thirst and urination, or even sodium ion poisoning in pets…As such, we encourage you to avoid feeding salt-heavy snacks like potato chips, pretzels, and salted popcorn to your pets.” - ASPCA

Symptoms of hypernatremia:

• Increased thirst
• Vomiting
• Decreased appetite
• Diarrhea
• Seizures

21: Canned Tuna

Tuna is alright for cats as a treat, but you should avoid making it a core element of your cat's diet. There are two reasons for this.

The first is that canned tuna isn't nutritionally complete for a cat. It doesn't have all of the vitamins, minerals, and nutrients necessary to keep your cat healthy. They need a more varied diet to make sure they get everything necessary to nourish their entire body.

The second is that there's a lot of mercury found in fish, particularly tuna, so if your cat over-eats tuna, they can end up with mercury poisoning. People can get this too, but again, you need a lot more tuna to get that big a dose.

“Commercial fish food products such as tuna have been associated with chronic poisoning in humans and cats.” – Merck Veterinary Manual

Signs of mercury poisoning:

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Tremors

22-25: Raw Chicken, Beef, Pork, and Fish

Raw meats of any kind may seem like an odd inclusion on this list. After all, wouldn't cats in the wild eat raw meat all the time? Well, sure, cats in the wild also get sick and even die from the things they eat all the time. We like to take better care of our fur babies than that, right?

The problem here is microbes. Bacteria like e.coli and salmonella, as well as various parasites, can all linger on the surface of raw meats. Cross-contamination is also an issue.

Any of these diseases can prove devastating to your feline friend, so it's usually better to cook meat before giving it to them.

Similarly, if you buy a raw meat diet, make sure it's produced in a certified environment. Making it yourself, unless done with extreme care, can be dangerous.

Symptoms of Food-Caused Problems

As you’ve noted from the signs listed above, the most common issues from food are digestive. Your poor kitty's digestive system will want to get rid of whatever is causing them a problem ASAP, with predictable results.

Other symptoms can include pain, gas, coughing, confusion, breathing problems, seizures, tremors, and weakness.

If you see your cat struggling with any of these, it's probably a good idea to rush them to the vet to make sure it's not going to get worse. Often, with fluids and a bit of monitoring, they'll end up fine.

However, you need to be careful to make sure they don't consume the offending food again in the future.

Luckily, most food issues can be resolved within a couple of hours, and monitoring at the vet is mostly a precaution.

If you suspect your fur baby has eaten something dangerous, first call your vet. If they tell you to just keep an eye on them, you will probably be fine with some monitoring. Otherwise, you may want to rush them to the emergency vet, particularly if their symptoms indicate something worse than digestive troubles, like seizures or kidney/liver failure.

If you can't get through to your vet, you can also try:

• Pet Poison Helpline, 855-764-7661, www.petpoisonhelpline.com

• ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, 888-426-4435, www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control

They'll help advise you on what, if anything, you should do and what your next steps should be.

What's your favorite treat to give to your fur baby? Hopefully, it's not something on this list! I'd love to hear about your furry friends and their favorite snacks, so be sure to leave your stories in the comments section down below!

Seemingly inconspicuous at first, a simple cold or tooth decay can escalate into more severe conditions, making it essential to monitor them. Understanding their patterns becomes pivotal when their once-brimming food bowl remains untouched for an entire day.

Unlike us, cats cannot sustain on water alone for elongated periods. Thus, noticing your little furry friend not eating calls for immediate attention and encouraging them effectively to resume their meals.

They may or may not continue with their water intake. Irrespective, it's essential to emphasize on their food.

In this piece, we dive into the main factors that could potentially disrupt your senior cat's eating routine, complemented with handy tips to stimulate their appetite.

This informative blog post aims to help fellow pet owners navigate through similar situations and leverage my personal experiences with my aging cat.

Why Is It Important That My Cat Eats Every Day?

Before we dive into ways to encourage your senior kitty to eat, it's important to know why eating is so critical to a cat's health:

If your cat isn't eating, you should take them to the vet immediately.

When a cat of any age stops eating, the liver compensates by breaking down the fat in the body to create energy.

If eating doesn't resume, the fat can build up in the liver, limiting its function and ultimately leading to hepatic lipidosis or fatty liver disease. If left untreated, fatty liver disease can be fatal in cats.

This information isn't meant to scare you but to show the importance of monitoring if your kitty is eating. Hepatic lipidosis can happen at any age, so it's always a good practice to be aware of how much your kitty is eating.

Understand Why an Older Cat Won't Eat

First things first, what is considered an older cat? In the past, cats that reached the age of 8 were considered old cats. Today, a cat's senior age stage starts between the ages of 12 – 14 years.

"Thanks to improved nutrition, living indoors, and advances in veterinary medicine, cats live longer and are now considered older at 12 to 14 years…"- Richard Goldstein, DVM | Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine.

If your older cat isn't eating, there are a lot of possible reasons, and understanding those reasons is the first step toward addressing the underlying problem.

1. Illness.

Cats are masters of hiding pain and illness, a survival mechanism they have engrained in their DNA.

That's why it often seems like they go downhill extremely quickly at the end; they've been hiding how bad things are until they can't hide anymore.

The number one cause for a lack of appetite in a cat, particularly an older cat, is illness.

This can range anywhere from the common kitty cold to allergies to more serious conditions like infections, kidney failure, pancreatitis, or even cancer.

Older cats often develop problems as they age, and problems that were previously well-controlled stop being stable.

Something as simple as a cold can cause your kitty to stop eating. They may have a little fever, and their nose gets stuffy. As a result, their food may not smell strong enough to entice them to eat.

Some cats with inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) may have a flare and associate their food with their tummy troubles.

Other conditions, such as chronic kidney disease – a super common disease in older cats - can leave your kitty feeling nauseous, and who wants to eat when they feel like throwing up?

Pancreatitis is another condition that can cause anorexia in cats, and this is something I've personally dealt with – twice.

This inflammatory issue is very painful and not only kept our Sosa from eating, but she also stopped socializing.

2. Oral health issues.

Cats can't brush their teeth the way we can, and thus, they commonly suffer from tooth decay.

Getting your kitty's teeth checked at their regular vet visits can help identify these problems before they get out of control.

Oral issues, whether it's a cavity or dental abscess, a broken tooth, a loose tooth, a lesion in the mouth, a tongue problem, or something else, can all make the act of eating into an unpleasant chore.

Your cat will likely pick at or avoid food entirely because it's painful to eat.

3. Stress and household changes.

Cats are generally creatures of habit.

“…older cats cherish predictable days more than younger cats do. "Just as we become set in our ways as we get older, cats do too," Dr. Goldstein | Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine.

They like to hang out in the same places and do the same things each day, which is why they tend to have issues when you do something like take a vacation, change your schedule (like daylight savings time), or rearrange your furniture.

Travel can also stress them out, and a stressed cat may not have the appetite to eat.

Luckily, stress can wear off, and they'll eat when the hunger overcomes their anxiety, so this is one of the easiest causes to handle.

If you haven't tried CBD oil yet, it can be effective for cats with situational anxiety.

4. Social or antisocial eating.

Some cats are social eaters, which means they like to have someone else with them while they eat, to act as a lookout and a guard and a comforting presence.

In the wild, this role would be filled with another cat, but if they're your only feline, you'll need to be on hand to comfort them while they dine.

Cat Demands Dad to Watch Him Eat – 43s Video.

Other cats hate the vulnerability of eating.

Eating takes focus and is a distraction, and a cat that fears intrusion or food insecurity might not want anyone or anything around when they eat.

They say a watched pot never boils; a watched cat never eats.

If your cat is older, you likely know their preferences by now, but those preferences can change.

In particular, if your cat has recently been stressed, injured, or ill, their habits may change, often in the more antisocial direction.

When Is It Time to Take Your Cat to the Vet

If your cat isn't eating, what should you do? Seek emergency care, schedule a prompt appointment, call the vet for advice, or try to address it on your own?

The safety and well-being of your cat should always be the priority. If your cat hasn't eaten in more than 24 hours, it's recommended to consult a vet immediately.

Always monitor your cat's overall behavior and health. Sometimes a sudden change in diet or an occasional aversion to a particular food may not signify a serious issue. However, any prolonged refusal to eat or other alarming symptoms should be addressed with a professional.

Even if your cat has previously shown pickiness with food, it's always better to err on the side of caution and get expert advice. Your pet's health is paramount.

Monitoring Your Cat

The first thing you should do is watch your furry friend and see what other behaviors or symptoms they may have.

If your cat has occasional bouts with food aversion but will eat if you can get the circumstances just right, it's possible they aren't ill and just want you to run to the pet supply store to get them a new food option.

Just like us, cats can also get tired of eating the same thing and sometimes are up for a change. My 18-year-old Sosa does that all the time.

And so I keep a smorgasbord of different types of food that allows me to spice up her menu options.

If your fur baby has some symptoms of something else going on, like signs of a toothache, a runny nose, sneezing, or congestion, you'll want to call your vet and ask for advice.

They can tell you if you should try some at-home treatment options or if you should bring them in for examination.

If your feline friend has more pronounced symptoms, particularly if they are withdrawing and hiding, you'll want to schedule an appointment and bring your fur baby in for a vet check.

This is also true if they haven't eaten in more than a couple of days; weight loss and the associated health issues that come from it can come on quickly.

Finally, if your older adult cat is very food averse, has refused to eat for a couple of days, seems ill or in pain, or is even aggressive when you try to feed them, an emergency vet trip may be in order.

Something worse may be going on under the surface, and it's reached a breaking point where they can't hide it anymore, and you need to address it.

To be clear, if your cat hasn't eaten for more than a couple of days, it's best to at least call your vet to talk to them about it.

They'll be able to ask questions to gauge what other symptoms you might be dealing with, including some you may not have known to think about and can determine if a vet trip is appropriate.

You don't want to let your cat struggle for longer than necessary, and an unnecessary vet trip is way better than unnecessary suffering.

Multi-cat Households and Free Feeding

In single-cat households, monitoring a cat's eating habits is very simple. It all comes down to keeping a watchful eye on the amount of food remaining in the bowl. Pretty straightforward, right?

But what if you have 2, 3, 4, or more cats? One common challenge faced by multi-cat households is identifying when one cat isn't eating.

One thing all pet parents with multi-cat households should not do is to free feed. This includes using any kind of electronic feeder. Wait, what?

The set-it-and-forget-it nature of these feeders will very likely prevent you from realizing early on when one of your kitties isn't eating.

As discussed above, liver failure happens very fast in cats. Keeping a close eye on your fur children's eating habits is a must-do for every pet parent, especially if all of them are older cats.

My best advice is to never free-feed when you have multiple cats.

Of course, I'm not recommending that you get rid of that fancy and expensive feeder you just purchased that comes with a fancy app that allows you to monitor all sorts of things.

My advice is to use that feeder and any automatic food dispenser for exceptions and not the norm. For example, you may want to take a short vacation or perhaps do a little mid-day meal while you're at work.

When you have to be away and use the feeder, have your neighbor check on your cats every day during your absence. Your cats will thank you.

How to Encourage Your Older Adult Cat to Eat

If your older fur baby won't eat, don't worry; you're not alone, and you do have options.

There are a lot of different things you can try, and as they won't all work, it's worth experimenting. Just keep in mind that if a technique doesn't work, it's best to try another method.

1. Lightly warm their food.

Heating up their food, particularly if it's wet food, helps make it a lot easier for them (and you, unfortunately) to smell it.

Sometimes, your cat may be losing their sense of smell, either because of congestion or age.

As that happens, they'll be less likely to even know food is available. Warming it up(and stirring it carefully to avoid hot spots) can make it more obvious to them.

2. Add a bit of water to their dry food.

This can be an important option to make it easier to eat dry food. You don't want to turn it into mush completely, but a little bit of moisture can make it easier to eat.

This is also one of the indications that your fur baby may be having a tooth problem; if wet food is fine, but dry food isn't, it might be because they have a hard time chewing it without pain.

“When a cat ages, his teeth may go bad, or he may develop gum disease that may make it difficult to chew dry food. "If they get to that point, then offer them canned food or dry in a finer nugget size,” Dr. Kallfelz | Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine

3. Add something they like to their dish.

There are a few flavors that are extremely attractive to felines and can make them all the more interested in eating, even when they are turning their nose up.

Some options include:

• A small amount of low-sodium, no-onion, no-garlic chicken broth instead of water.
• A small amount of the juice from a plain can of low/no-sodium tuna (not the kind stored in oil, though.)
• A small amount of fish oil, preferably a pet-safe variety.
• A small amount of nutritional yeast; it has a slightly nutty, cheesy flavor cats love.

You don't want to saturate the food in these substances, of course; just add enough to entice them with the smell.

These options can also be tried in combination with the lightly warming food option.

4. Try a dash of catnip.

Catnip stimulates the feline senses.

For some cats, it can make them sleepy; for others, it gives them energy. Still, others aren't really affected by it at all.

Either way, a bit of catnip can be worth a shot; it might help stimulate their appetite enough to make them finally take a few bites.

Just beware: not all catnips are created equal, and some may actually do more harm than good to your cat.

Before you rush to purchase the first catnip you find online, make sure to read my guide on how to buy non-toxic catnip for cats here.

5. Change up the food to a different flavor.

In particular, for wet foods, flavor matters.

Even if it's a food that your cat has been enjoying for years, they may simply decide that they don't like it anymore.

Here's something to consider: if your kitty isn't feeling well, they may associate it with their food.

For years, my Sosa ate (and loved) a specific brand of wet food. After she recovered from her first case of pancreatitis, she refused to eat the food – ever again.

Changing from chicken to fish, or to liver, or another flavor can be a good way to check if they'll be interested in something else.

6. Stick with them (or leave) when they eat.

This is going back to that social/antisocial eating thing.

In many cases, social eaters can eat alone if they feel secure where they live, and antisocial eaters can eat in company if they trust you, so you may not have noticed their preference once they settled into your lives.

However, if they're stressed or ill, their tendencies may become more dramatic, so they may want you nearby or want to be left alone. So, try them both out and see if they help. Some cats are more needy than others!

7. Move their food dish.

Sometimes, food aversion can come from some source of stress or trauma related to the location, not the food or their own health.

Cats like to feel safe while they eat, and if something scares them when they are eating, they may no longer consider that location a safe space to chow down.

So, consider moving their food to another location, preferably one they like to hang out in when they're feeling good.

8. Change their bowl.

Sometimes, the bowl you use to feed your cat may be the culprit.

Any number of things can go wrong with a dish; maybe it needs washing, or it was washed, and the residue of the soap is still on it. Sometimes, a deeper bowl can irritate your fur baby's whiskers (leading to whisker fatigue) and turn them off from eating from it.

You can try serving food on a plate or shallow dish, changing their bowl, or otherwise changing how you feed them and see if any of those steps help.

9. It's time for a vet appointment.

If all else fails, it's time to head to the vet.

Your vet will be able to run some tests to identify any underlying acute or chronic health condition that might be causing your cat to not eat.

When you head to the appointment, come armed with any other changed behaviors you've noticed, how long they've been going on, and any things you've tried to help.

Your vet has a lot of tools that can be added to the list to help your kitty eat. The first is to address the cause – perhaps your kitty has an infection and needs an antibiotic.

Or perhaps they have pancreatitis and need pain meds. Is nausea perhaps the culprit? There's a pill for that, too.

Blood work and a urinalysis can reveal a lot of potential illnesses, but sometimes, additional imagining may be needed, too.

In the end, your vet may send you home with a variety of medications to help your kitty kick their illness to the curb. Some of these medications might include:

• Antibiotics– these will help knock out an infection. Be sure to finish the entire course of treatment, even if your kitty is feeling better.
• Anti-nausea meds– there are a couple of go-to options your vet might give you.
• Pain meds– this is a very common treatment for pancreatitis to help your kitty remain comfortable while they heal.
• Fluids– your vet will check your kitty's gums and may do a skin fold pinch test to see if your kitty is dehydrated. If they are, you may be sent home with a bag of fluids and some needles to administer them subcutaneously.
• An appetite stimulant– appetite stimulants and anti-nausea medications often go hand-in-hand because you don't want to make a cat hungry and feel like throwing up.

Keep in mind that it can take time for a sick kitty to start feeling better, so you may need to return to some of the suggestions above, like warming their food or choosing a nice fishy-smelling option to encourage them to eat.

Caring For A Sick Older Cat That Won’t Eat

I mentioned earlier that my 18-year-old Sosa has had two bouts of pancreatitis:

• The first time, the treatment went pretty smoothly. I closely followed the medication schedule and bought a variety of fishy wet foods (she had only had chicken wet food up until that point). A little warming of the food and offering it multiple times a day, after a few days, she was almost back to normal.
• The second case wasn't as simple. Sosa had a high fever this time; she had licked her nose raw and also had an upset stomach. Her vet appointment was on a Friday morning, and after many tests, poking, and prodding, she received her first dose of all of her meds, and we went home with our fingers crossed, but not feeling hopeful based on her current state.

She was being treated for an infection on top of the pancreatitis, so we were sent home with all the medications noted above. We were at a desperate time in our lives. Given her fragile state and age, the doctor was really concerned that she wasn't going to be able to overcome the infection.

She looked miserable, had lost a substantial amount of weight, and was hot to the touch. She did nothing but sleep the rest of the day.

That evening, I set up a humidifier in her room to help with her congestion. Unfortunately, she didn't eat anything overnight despite the variety of options I left for her. That's when I began hand-feeding her.

Every couple of hours, I would wake her up and offer her a bit of wet food or treats. It was a bite here and a bit there, but hey, it was progress.

Left to her own devices - the bowls of nearby food were ignored. Later, we tried a meat tube treat during her sub-cutaneous fluids, and she was interested.

Meat tubes are not nutritionally balanced, but we had an idea. We crushed the treats she was eating (which, according to the manufacturer, can actually be fed as a balanced meal), mixed them with the meat tube in a sandwich bag, and fed them to her out of a cut corner.

It worked like a charm! She ate a little and was finally getting some good balanced calories into her frail body.

The hand-feeding many, many small meals was working – in fact, it was the only thing that was working (well, of course, the meds, too).

The stronger she got, the more treats we put into the meat tube mix, making it thicker and thicker like a pate wet food.

It took about three days before our Sosa turned a corner, and by a full week, we were able to stop most of the meds.

At this point, though, and still to this day (this article was written eight months after the incident), she's decided she doesn't want any wet or dry food, and she still prefers to be hand-fed.

She pretty much only eats nutritionally balanced treats now – certainly not ideal, but keeping an 18-year-old cat eating is less about "high quality" food and more about balanced calories.

I still use many of the methods above to encourage her to eat. A little warmed wet food – of all different varieties – with a little tuna juice or a little meat tube topper.

I'm constantly changing up the flavor of the treats, and I like to add catnip to her wet food. She also has food and water options in all of her favorite napping spots.

Overall, Sosa still prefers being hand-fed, and what my little love wants, she gets.

In closing, I'll leave you with a few additional recommendations to encourage your older cat to eat:

• Feed smaller, more frequent meals.
• Variety is often the spice of life for an older cat, so avoid buying cases of something they like because they may not like it tomorrow (it's like they know a full case arrived so it's time to start boycotting).
• Try different textures of wet food. Pate, shredded, cuts, in gravy, etc. They all have different appeal levels to a kitty that isn't eating.
• Keep in touch with your vet. If your kitty is ill, tweaks in medication may be needed as you try to get over the hump of the worst of the illness.
• Take notes. It can be hard to remember what worked and what didn't. It's also helpful to know the results of starting or stopping a med, especially when they can be given at different intervals.
• Reach out to groups with similar issues. In particular, there are a bunch of Facebook groups for cats with health conditions, and they are often a wealth of knowledge, if not another person, to remotely lean on.
• Don't be discouraged. Getting an older cat to eat is often challenging and can be emotionally draining. Just do the best you can and enjoy each day you have with your baby.

Have you ever had to deal with a situation where your fur baby wasn't eating? If so, what did you do to resolve the issue, or did it simply resolve itself? Be sure to leave your stories down below; I'd love to hear them all!

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It's only been relatively recently that people have discovered cats are largely lactose intolerant, and while they'll happily drink what you give them, it can upset their tummies and cause them all kinds of problems. That's a bowl of milk, though.

What about whipped cream? Can cats have whipped cream as a treat or is it dangerous? Well, the short answer is yes, they can but no, they probably shouldn’t.

However, you can use whipped cream strategically only when and if, needed. I’m sharing a great educational video by the Kitten Lady about this, it’s a must watch!

Today I’ll talk about a cat’s intolerance to lactose, the reasons why cats love milk, dangerous ingredients in whipped cream and some good safe alternatives to whipped cream.

Can Cats Have Whipped Cream as a Treat? Answers Around the Web

Before digging into our own analysis, let's look at what a few other pet sites have to say about the topic.

On one side of the issue, we have MrBossCat.com:

"Our best answer to this question is that, yes, cats can have whipped cream. However, most cats should not have any dairy as they are lactose intolerant. While cats can have a few tablespoons of whipped cream a week, they shouldn't have more than that."

This is backed up by LiveLongAndPawsPurr.com:

"A little bit of dairy, or whipped cream, on special occasions, doesn't cause any damage to your cat's overall health. But continued exposure can eventually cause long-term issues."

On the other hand, some pet experts take a stronger perspective on the issue. Here's one from AskMyCats.com:

"No, in general, cats can't have whipped cream. Healthy cats may tolerate little amounts of whipped cream on rare occasions. Whipped cream, on the other hand, includes chemicals that are harmful to cats. As a result, it is preferable to seek a healthier alternative snack."

When it comes right down to it, all of these blogs are saying more or less the same thing, though. So, let's break it down to discuss how they likely arrived at their answers.

Cats Are Lactose Intolerant

The first thing to discuss was already mentioned above: almost all cats are lactose intolerant. In fact, you might be surprised to hear that most adult animals (and even most people) are lactose intolerant.

It's considered kind of weird that humans drink milk as much as we do, and even then, it's only some cultures that place as much emphasis on it as we do.

Animals (mammals, anyway) drink milk from their mothers as babies but quickly grow out of that phase and start to wean off milk. Most then start to develop an intolerance to the primary sugar in milk, lactose.

This intolerance is caused by a lack of an enzyme (lactase) needed to break down the lactose. Since many humans love the taste of milk, you can find everything from lactose-free milk to medications like Lactaid to help digest that milk sugar.

Anyone who has ever tried milk while being lactose intolerant knows how unpleasant it can be. Digestive issues arise quickly. This can result in anything from bloating, awful flatulence to stomach pain and cramping, vomiting, and diarrhea.

The actual problem is that lactose is a sugar. Sugar breaks down and ferments when certain kinds of bacteria are present, and those bacteria are present in the stomach.

Fermentation creates a lot of gas and sugar alcohol, which bloats up the stomach, causes flatulence and pain, and cycles through to other issues as the body tries to get rid of it. It can be very unpleasant for both humans and kitties!

Now, not all cats are lactose intolerant. Mammals generally lose the digestive enzyme that allows them to process lactose over time. Some lose it very quickly; others lose it slowly, and some don't lose it at all.

This is why some cats can drink milk all day and be fine, and others can clear a room 20 minutes after taking a few laps.

Why Do Cats Love Milk and Cream When It's Bad For Them?

If it's unpleasant to eat dairy, why would cats still go after that milk or whipped cream when it's offered to them? There are a couple of reasons for why cream/milk/dairy is still pretty attractive to a cat.

The first reason is that milk is high in protein and fat, whole milk more so, and heavy cream (the kind of cream used in whipped cream) most of all. Cats are carnivores which means they seek out foods with proteins and fats.

For a cat, this would usually mean meat, but in our homes, dairy based products are another attractive option.

Of course, we don't usually put whipped cream in the same category as ground beef. That's because, to us, whipped cream is packed with sugar and is quite sweet.

Cats don't really have the same taste receptors we do, though, and they don't taste the sugar. All they sense is the fats and proteins in the cream.

It’s worth noting that cats don’t have the ability to taste sweets. My sister, who by the way is a healthcare professional, might disagree with this scientific finding because she once had a kitty that would always try to devour anything she baked!

My only point here is that what’s pleasing to us isn’t the same reason your cat wants dairy based products.

The second reason a cat might be attracted to dairy products is that any unpleasant side effects from eating dairy may be delayed enough that they don't associate the two experiences with one another.

If you've read anything about training cats, you know that you need rapid responses between behavior and reward in order for your feline to associate the two.

Lactose reactions are generally somewhat delayed – it takes time for the cream to hit the digestive system, react poorly, and show symptoms – so your cat likely won't associate the bad feelings with the cream.

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Some Whipped Cream Can Have Dangerous Ingredients

Now, let's get into the dark side of whipped cream for a moment.

Whipped cream is generally made up of three main ingredients: cream, sugar, and air.

It's easy to make on your own if you have a stand mixer, and technically you don't even need the sugar; you just need to whip the cream with air enough to fluff it up.

Many store-bought whipped creams do include added sugar, though. This is because plain cream might taste a little off-putting for many people, and sugar makes it more palatable. As I mentioned above, though, cats can't taste sugar.

Just because they don't taste it doesn't mean they don't process it, though. Even though they're carnivores, their little bodies can process glucose and fructose, and those sugars can cause all kinds of damage.

Sugar in excess can lead to diabetes and obesity, and those can be difficult or impossible to reverse. Remember that the combination of a balanced diet and exercise makes for a healthy cat.

Whipped cream is also largely milk fats, and those milk fats can contribute to obesity in cats. It just keeps going, doesn't it?

If you're buying store-bought whipped cream, especially whipped cream in a can, you're going to find other ingredients that can be bad for cats, too.

• Carrageenan is a stabilizer that helps keep whipped cream from melting. It’s derived from seaweed, which seems safe enough right? The problem is what was found in a 2017 study that found carrageenan could cause intestinal inflammation. Full disclosure, a 2018 review of carrageenan, said the same conclusion couldn’t be drawn and that more research is needed. So, in short, the jury is still out on this one.
• Sugar alternatives cats are obligate carnivores, so they require a meat source to get their nutrition. Those mice out in the wild aren’t covered in sugar much less corn syrup, which is a commonly added sweetener in whipped cream.
• Preservatives are also common in store bought whipped cream.

Up to this point we’ve been talking about true whipped cream, which is generally a limited ingredient item. You might also be familiar with the blue tub of alternative whipped topping in the refrigerator section of the grocery store.

While it’s often used interchangeably with whipped cream as a dessert topping, it’s much less cream and more so processed and artificial ingredients.

These are not limited to high fructose corn syrup, hydrogenated vegetable oil, artificial flavors and colors. Ditch this option if you’re ever considering giving a taste to your kitty.

What About Lactose-Free Dairy?

I mentioned it in passing above, but we humans are pretty clever.

We know some people enjoy milk but are lactose intolerant, so we found a way to make milk that doesn't have lactose in it. Is that kind of milk – as whipped cream – any better for cats?

The answer here is a solid "maybe, but probably not."

• Lactose-free dairy whipped cream is hard to find and still includes plenty of sugar and ingredients like carrageenan.
• Fully vegan whipped creams also include a lot of sugar and oils, which aren't good for your fur baby, no matter how you slice it.
• Many non-dairy alternatives use coconut milk, which is extremely high in fats and sugars, making it almost worse than dairy, even if it doesn't trigger lactose intolerance.

Whipped Cream is Generally Safe for Cats in Small Doses

If you’re going to give your kitty dairy, plain whipped cream is probably the safest option you can give. Why?

Well, whipped cream is whipped, which fluffs the cream up with a lot with air. That means it's a relatively low concentration of dairy and lactose, and other potentially harmful ingredients.

If you're going to use whipped cream, it's almost always better to make it yourself, so neither you nor your furry friends are exposed to the chemicals present in various artificial foods.

When you purchase your heavy whipping cream, be sure to check the ingredient label to confirm there aren’t any additives.

A tablespoon of whipped cream isn't going to cause problems in many cats and can only really be harmful if:

• You give your cat this treat every day or worse, multiple times a day.
• Multiple people give your cat treats, not knowing the others are too.
• Your cat has other health issues, like diabetes or obesity.

So, if you're making yourself dessert and you want to give your furry friend a dab of whipped cream as a treat for being a good baby, well, it's probably not going to hurt them. And while perhaps you shouldn’t, who can resist those begging faces. Am I right?

One big problem is that they tend to remember everything about the whipped cream experience. So the next time you are making desert, they will run to you to beg for it as they associate all your behavior related sounds with the yummy experience.

Remember, cats don’t have sweet taste receptors, so they will likely prefer a more species appropriate treat.

Now, having said that, sometimes a little bit of bad to do good might be justified. For example, you may want to use whipped cream to keep your cat distracted while you perform a necessary procedure on them.

Check out this video by Kitten Lady on how to use whipped cream for the good of your kitty.

I guess that we can all agree that sometimes, giving your cat whipped cream can be justified.

What are Better Treats than Whipped Cream?

Now, all you cat parents out there know just as well as I do that our fur babies are adept at begging just as much as those dogs with their cute puppy eyes. And who can say no to that fuzzy little face?

Treats are an important part of rewarding behaviors and high-value training. And yes, cats can be trained!

So, keeping some high-value treats on hand can be a great idea. Whipped cream is often thought of as one such treat, but as I just extensively analyzed, it's not as good a treat as you might hope.

So, what should you do instead?

• Fish. Little bits of salmon, tuna, or mackerel can be a great little treat for your cat. If you’re making these at home, make sure to exclude all seasonings.
• Meat. A bit of chicken or beef can be a great treat too. While your fur baby can eat it raw, it's usually a better idea to cook it (no spices or salt, please) just to avoid any possible pathogens. Avoid salted cuts like bacon, deli meat, or cold cuts.
• Some Cheese. Certain cheeses are dairy that have had their lactose processed out and can still be a decent little treat, but you still don't want to turn to it very often.
• Egg. A bit of cooked egg can be a good treat for your fur baby too. It's high in protein and low in all the harmful things, but you do need to make sure to cook it properly. Go light on the oil or butter, and avoid salt and other spices.

Now that you know what you should (and shouldn't) be feeding your furry feline friend as a treat, you can start looking to other aspects of your cat's diet.

Treats should always be pretty limited as rewards for your cat since too many of them can lead to feline obesity and other health issues.

Oh, and make sure to approve anything you want to feed them with your vet; if your cat has any health issues, allergies, or other problems, your vet will know what they shouldn't have.

So, to wrap it up, here’s my final two cents on the topic. A small amount of natural whipped cream isn’t going to permanently hurt your kitty. It should however always be avoided for obese kitties and those with diabetes.

It’s just plain excess calories and could cause some digestive upset, but symptoms should pass with no lingering issues.

Sometimes we all want to eat or overeat foods that don’t agree with us, so it’s important to watch your kitty for any digestive symptoms after a dairy based treat.

And since cats can’t taste sweets, consider something more to their liking such as a freeze-dried meat treat!

Tell me, what kind of treats do you give to your feline friend, and which are their favorites? Do they love any of the listed recommendations above? Be sure to let me know! I absolutely love hearing about all your fur babies and the stories they create!

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One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

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Below are the instructions on how to make 4 ingredient cat treats! It’s super simple, so give it a shot!

Ingredients

• 1 – 5.5 oz can of tuna (I looked for sustainably sourced tuna with little or no added salt)
• 1 cup of all purpose flour
• 1 large egg
• 1 tablespoon of organic dried catnip

Step 1:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees

Step 2:

Blend all ingredients in a food processor until a smooth dough forms

Step 3:

Place small balls of dough (1/4 tsp) onto a parchment lined cookie sheet and slightly flatten (if you have a small mold like us, fill it up)

Step 4:

Bake in preheated oven for approximately 15 minutes.

Step 5:

Reward your fur baby with a homemade cat treat!

These cat treats should be stored in an airtight container for no more than 5 days.

Optionally, break it into small batches and freeze them!

Give it a try and let us know how they turn out! Do you have a favorite homemade cat treat recipe to share?

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One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

This harsh reality is why it’s extremely important to ensure your fur baby is eating regularly.

While Hepatic Lipidosis (more commonly known as fatty liver disease) has been seen in some toy breed pups, it tends to be more unique to cats.

You’re probably wondering, what is fatty liver disease? When your kitty begins a period of anorexia/fasting, the body begins moving stored fat to the liver in order to process it for energy.

The fat deposits begin building up in the liver interfering with its normal function, and when left untreated it ultimately leads to death.

Causes

Essentially anything that causes your kitty to not eat can ultimately lead to fatty liver disease. Obese kitties tend to be at higher risk.

Common causes include the following:

• Pain
• Nausea
• Stress
• Pancreatitis
• Disease (IBD) and other diseases that cause the body to not properly absorb energy from food

Symptoms

Some of the most common systems to look for are as follows:

• Reduced appetite / not eating at all
• Vomiting or drooling, which is often a sign of nausea
• Hiding / disinterest in normal activities
• Lethargy
• Jaundice (yellowing of the white portion of the eyes, ears, gums, or skin)
• Dehydration
• Constipation
• Weight loss / muscle wasting

Diagnosis

Your veterinarian will take into account the medical history you provide and will perform blood tests to look for abnormal values.

An ultrasound will likely be recommended to take a look at the liver, and additional tests may be needed to rule out other diseases.

Treatment

If your kitty reaches the point of diagnosis with fatty liver disease, you can expect your veterinarian to admit your fur baby for around-the-clock care.

Your vet will attempt to treat the underlying cause of not eating, which may include administering anti-nausea meds, appetite stimulants, and antibiotics if an infection is suspected.

Your kitty will also be given IV fluids to address dehydration.

If medications aren’t getting your kitty to eat on his/her own, your vet may recommend a surgical procedure to place a feeding tube.

This tube will allow calories to be provided until your kitty is willing to eat again.

Has your kitty ever gone for an extended period of not eating?

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• FAQ: Can CBD Oil Help Calm Cats with Situational Anxiety?
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• FAQ: Can You Give Cats Human Grade CBD Oil?
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One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

Sources:

https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/liver-disease-fatty-liver-syndrome-in-cats

https://bestfriends.org/pet-care-resources/liver-disease-cats-signs-treatment-prognosis

https://www.preventivevet.com/cats/hepatic-lipidosis-fatty-liver-disease-in-cats

https://www.pethealthnetwork.com/cat-health/cat-diseases-conditions-a-z/fatty-liver-disease-cats-not-eating-can-quickly-kill

Read through the sections below to find out common mistakes you might be making when you store your fur baby’s food.

Feeding Expired Food

Do you ever look at the expiration date on that big bad of food?

I was always inclined to buy the biggest bag of food possible. It saved me frequent trips to the store and things tend to be cheaper when you buy in bulk.

These are both very valid reasons, but they shouldn’t outweigh the time it takes for you to go through the bag.

If you can’t use the entire bag before the expiration date, opt for a smaller size so it stays fresh.

Throwing Out the Bag

There are several issues here.

1. The bag helps maintain the freshness of the food.
2. It contains the expiration date so you’re not feeding rancid old food, and
3. It contains a barcode that you’ll want to reference in the event of a recall.

If you choose to toss the bag, jot down the last two items so you have them for reference.

Exposing the Food to Air

This goes along with throwing out the bag. Many of us transfer dry food into a reusable container.

While it likely has a lid, you can’t squeeze out the air, which can speed up the decomposition rate and increase the rate of growth of dangerous bacteria.

Your best bet is to keep the food in the original bag so you can squeeze the air out and clip it closed after each feeding.

Really love that container? Stick the full bag inside instead! For canned food leftovers your best bet is to put on a lid that fits well and put it in the fridge right away.

Exposing the Food to Sunlight

Dry food comes in an opaque bag for a reason, it blocks out sunlight.

Just like air, sunlight can speed up the decomposition rate and increase the rate of growth of dangerous bacteria.

If you’re set on using a storage container, choose one that is not clear or keep it in a dark place away from windows.

Tell me, how do you store your dry food? Do you keep track of the expiration date? What about recalls?

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• FAQ: Can CBD Oil Help Calm Cats with Situational Anxiety?
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One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

Most kitties and doggies are unlike humans when it comes to their daily diet. They are generally fed the same food for every meal, with the occasional snack or treat.

If a slow transitional process is not followed to change the existing food, digestive upset is likely to follow and that’s not fun for you or your fur baby. Here’s a basic guideline, which I’ve found to help ensure an uneventful transition.

Preparation:

• Ensure you have at least a week’s worth of the current food remaining.
• Purchase a small quantity of the new food in case the transition is unsuccessful.

The Transition:

• Day 1 – Day 4: Provide 3/4 of current food and 1/4 of new food
• Day 5 – Day 7: Provide 1/2 of current food and 1/2 of new food
• Day 8 – Day 10: Provide 1/4 of current food and 3/4 of new food
• Day 11 +: Provide 100% new food

Pretty simple right, but what if it doesn’t go as planned?

If you’re noticing some changes in your fur baby’s potty habits (yes I’m talking about the consistency of their poo), consider the following:

• Did the brand of food change? While pet foods are required to meet minimum health requirements, their contents can vary significantly. Try switching to a product within the same brand and line of food.
• Did the protein source change (chicken vs fish, etc.)? Your fur baby may have a sensitivity to the new source. Try something more similar to what they are currently eating.
• Going from dry to wet or the reverse? Try slowing the progression down as this can be a big adjustment, especially for those with sensitive stomachs!
• No obvious issue? Consider trying another brand of food as there may be an ingredient that just doesn’t agree with your fur baby.

Before changing your fur baby’s diet, it’s best to first consult with your Veterinarian. It’s also a great idea to stay on top of recalls.

You would be surprised at the batches of well-known brand foods that have been found unsafe for consumption.

Have you ever transitioned your fur baby’s diet? Any recommendations? Any horror stories?

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The prescription diabetic wet food was a bust, Moosie hated it. Thankfully there were a ton of resources available to help me compare the contents of OTC canned food.

My vet essentially said any wet food will be an improvement over dry food because of the carbohydrate content.

I began learning about brands I never knew existed and quickly narrowed down my preferred list to high-quality protein options with very low carbs. I reviewed the options with my vet and found a local specialty pet food store that carried the brands.

Winner winner chicken dinner

After getting over the shock of the price per can and the fact that we just spent hundreds of dollars on insulin supplies and vet visits, I knew I was going to have to convince my husband the cheaper brands of wet food weren’t going to cut it.

I was certain if I got the best food we could afford, I could get Moosie off the insulin. My husband wasn’t fully convinced. We were able to come to an agreement… we would try the expensive food for a few months and if his glucose didn’t improve we would switch to a less expensive brand of wet food.

So I took a deep breath, drove to the store, and purchased several options. As they say, winner winner chicken dinner, I found a high-quality chicken-based wet food that my boy loved!

Over the course of a week, we slowly transitioned Moosie from his weight management dry food to a full diet of almost 65% protein wet food. He was in his glory and I was too! This wasn’t going to be so bad. We also incorporated mandatory playtime every day.

I bought a baby scale and we began doing weigh-ins once a week and regularly checked with the vet to adjust his food intake along with his insulin dosage. This was a stressful time.

As Moo lost weight his glucose level also began to drop so it was extremely important to test his levels before injecting to avoid a hypoglycemic event that could cause seizures and even death. It was a balancing act, but my vet was there to support me and I couldn’t be more thankful.

Watch out diabetes, Moo is gonna beat you!

Over many many weeks, Moo was able to safely cut his weight from 20 lbs to a very healthy 14 lbs. I didn’t realize he had slowed down so much until I saw him in his new slender body running around like a nut! He was like a kitten again!

The best part of the diet change… he was able to stop the insulin. Here I thought this was going to be needed the rest of his life, but a simple diet change changed everything.

My Moo beat diabetes! Hmm… now what to do with the girls who were still on dry food?

Read More Cat Care Guides

• FAQ: How Often Should You Take Your Cat to The Vet?
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Growing up we always had a family kitty and that kitty was always fed dry food with the special occasion treat of wet food.

We loved our kitties and I always felt like my Mom had their best in mind. I guess when that’s the norm you don’t think much of it. I continued this routine when I became an adult and rescued my own kitties.

My journey as a cat mom

All 4 ate dry food and received special wet food treats on their birthdays. I chose more expensive dry food thinking I was doing even better for them.

Sure my vet recommended wet food diets along the way, but I always thought back to my 18-year-old childhood kitty who lived a long healthy life on non-specialty dry food.

None of my childhood kitties ever overate and they were never overweight. They lived long healthy lives, so I thought, why change what works?

Even as my oldest fur baby Moosie started to gain weight, I always said, “more to love.” I didn’t think I was hurting him. In fact, I thought he was happy being chunky and being able to eat as much as he wanted.

His regular vet visits yielded clean bloodwork and only an occasional stress-related Urinary Tract Infection (UTI) when we would move homes.

After a few years, I did watch his portion amount and switched him to weight management food, but he stayed pudgy.

A painful realization

It wasn’t until many years later when my Moosie developed Type 2 Diabetes that I knew a serious change was needed.

I had to prick my poor little man’s ear daily to check his glucose level and give him an insulin injection twice a day to control his blood sugar.

Not even considering the hundreds of dollars this was costing, I felt sick. I allowed this to happen. How could I confuse loving my sweet cow with allowing him to overeat???

I learned everything I possibly could from my vet (and the web) about diabetes and quickly realized dry food and inactivity were our main problems.

We immediately started Moosie on the diabetic wet food prescription the vet recommended.

I needed to help my boy safely lose weight and prevent the same problem from happening to my other 3 fur babies.

This was really a wake-up call. Drastic changes were on the horizon. More to come… in the meantime check out our current giveaway.

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• FAQ: How Often Should You Take Your Cat to The Vet?
• Why Do Cats Bite and Then Lick You?
• 7 Tips for Taking Care of a Fluffy Long-Haired Cat
• Should I Brush My Cat or Do They Clean Themselves?
• DIY Cat Bed Ideas to Make a Cozy Place for Your Fur Baby

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!