Fortunately, with modern technology, we have an option to help. GPS trackers are a great way to ensure that even the most adventurous pooch can be tracked down before something happens to them and brought home safely. They aren't quite as simple as they seem, though, so let's talk about them.

What are Dog GPS Trackers?

Some people, especially people who haven't had pets before, might think that the microchip implanted in our furry friends is a form of tracking. As we know, though, it isn't. A microchip is just a chip with an ID number on it; the ID can be looked up in a database, and that database stores information like your name and phone number. There's no way to track down where a pet is from their chip, but if a pet is found, their chip can be scanned, and your information can be used to find you.

Image source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/16176711@N02/53766536280

GPS trackers are different. A GPS tracker is a much larger device, usually attached to a collar. It can connect to a communications network (more on those later), and you can look up where the tracker currently is. That way, if your pooch gets out and goes on the run, you can load up an app and track them down.

There are several different kinds of GPS trackers, and they have some distinct pros and cons, so let's talk about them all.

What Are the Different Kinds of Dog GPS Tracker?

GPS trackers for dogs generally fall into one of three categories.

These include:

• Satellite Trackers
• Cellular Trackers
• Bluetooth Trackers

They function in different ways, so it's important to know which kind works best for your area.

Satellite GPS Trackers Explained

GPS is a fantastic technology, and it's one of the foundational pieces of technology that have been developed to power our entire society. These days, we often take it for granted that there's a planet-wide network of satellites that can pinpoint exactly where we are down to a few feet of accuracy.

Usually, sat-based trackers are very accurate and as close to real-time as possible. The downside is that they're generally larger and heavier and require a battery that has to be charged regularly. Because of this, they might not be suitable for smaller breeds and smaller dogs, and many people take them off when at home or to charge – which means if your dog escapes at that time, they aren't wearing the collar and can't be tracked.

Some modern satellite/GPS trackers are hybrids that roll in many of the same features as cellular trackers, which gives them even more precision. Many of them are also smaller because they're able to rely more on apps than on their own powered transceivers. In general, pure satellite trackers are most useful in areas where cell service is limited or unavailable, such as deep in the backcountry or wilderness.

Cellular GPS Trackers Explained

Cellular trackers are a lot like your cell phone, except without the ability to run apps, make phone calls, or really do anything your phone needs to do except connect to the cell service towers in your area. They use the same sort of SIM card as a phone and can connect to GPS satellite networks and cell phone towers to triangulate exactly where the chip (and, by extension, your dog) is.

If you've ever wondered how something like a Google Maps app on your phone knows where you are, it's the same as these kinds of trackers. Usually, you're always going to be within range of 3+ cell towers because we've constructed them all over the world to make cell phones useful anywhere. By measuring the amount of time it takes a signal to reach any given tower, a fairly exact location can be calculated.

Cell trackers are usually smaller and a little more passive than satellite trackers, but the biggest downside is that if you're in an area where cell service doesn't exist, these trackers won't exist either.

Bluetooth GPS Trackers Explained

Bluetooth and similar short-range trackers are a little different. These are a lot more like Tile trackers or Apple AirTags; they don't connect to an external network but rather to nearby cell phone devices. Apple relies on the number of people around the world who have iPhones to track AirTags, for example.

The downside here is that if there are no devices within range – and the range is very short – there can be no tracking. They also don't update very quickly, so if you get a location ping, it might be anywhere from five minutes to an hour old.

Since they're cheap, small, and don't require constant recharging, many people opt for these kinds of trackers, but they just aren't all that great. I wrote about them in detail here if you want to read a deeper analysis. For the most part, they aren't really even GPS, so I won't mention them for the rest of this post.

Other Kinds of Dog Trackers

There are a couple of other kinds of dog trackers you might see on the market.

One kind is a radio tracker. These are most commonly used for specific purposes, often hunting, where you're expected to be out in the wilderness and away from cell service. The collar component will have a full, powered radio transceiver, which broadcasts the location of the transceiver (and your dog) in a way that can be picked up by a radio you carry with you. You can use it to track and follow your dog through the wilderness. Since they're larger, heavier, and single-purpose, they aren't generally used for casual tracking purposes and are more for working dogs.

Another kind I have already mentioned is the hybrid tracker. These connect both to GPS signals and cell signals and use both kinds of information to provide more accurate, faster tracking. They're generally the best but can be more expensive than other kinds of trackers because they're the most recent iteration of the technology.

What Are the Benefits of Dog GPS Trackers?

The benefits of dog GPS tracking are obvious, really. You know where your dog is if they run off and escape! That's really all there is to it.

Instead of needing to run down the streets calling their name, leaving a shirt out on the porch, putting up flyers, and other tactics, all you need to do is load up an app, and you'll be able to track them down.

What Are the Drawbacks of Dog GPS Trackers?

With that much of a benefit, are there drawbacks to dog GPS trackers? Unfortunately, yes; otherwise, everyone would buy one as a matter of course, and we'd all have them.

First, they can be somewhat expensive. Some dog trackers are in the $20 to $50 range, but you can, if you want a very advanced and accurate device with advanced features, spend almost $1,000 on one. Full tracking systems from a big name like Garmin can be even more, though those are again meant for true professional use.

At the same time, many dog GPS trackers also require a subscription fee, just like you're paying for cell service on a phone. While a monthly fee might not be very high, it's still an ongoing cost, and if you feel like your pooch is never going to run off on you, you might be tempted not to keep it up, putting you in a vulnerable position.

Many GPS trackers, as I mentioned above, can be bulky or heavy. While they're still small and light enough that they won't cause a problem for a mid-sized breed, the smaller your dog is, the harder it is to manage. For the smallest breeds, you might even need a whole harness to carry it instead of putting it on a collar.

The cheaper a GPS tracker is, the more likely it will be to have a critical flaw as well. Most often, this means a shorter battery life, but it also might mean a lower range or less active response. Still, it's always better than nothing.

Is a Dog GPS Tracker Worthwhile?

This is a question only you can answer.

If your dog is well-trained in recall and even the most attractive distraction is easy to ignore when you call for them, then you usually won't need a GPS tracker. Similarly, if your pup doesn't seem tempted to run out and away and is content to hang around with you, there's no real need to worry about them.

On the other hand, if your dog likes to roam or if they've gotten lost before, a GPS collar can give you a ton of comfort and peace of mind. The expense is nothing compared to the emotional peace, right?

Dog GPS Tracker Frequently Asked Questions

Let's go over some of the frequently asked questions I get about dog GPS tracking.

Which kind of GPS tracker is the best?

The best tracker and the best tracker for you are probably different. The best trackers have multiple modes of tracking, come with handheld devices, don't rely on an app, and have real-time tracking. They're also very expensive, large, bulky, and meant for professional hunting, rescue, search, and other dogs. Most of us have no need for them.

The best trackers for typical home use are going to be hybrid trackers that can access cell networks and GPS signals. They don't need to be huge and elaborate or have multi-day battery life because you're likely only using them for an hour or three at a time when you take your dog out for a walk or go on a short trip.

Are Bluetooth trackers a viable option?

Almost always, probably not. Bluetooth trackers are good for wallets and other items that are likely to be lost in well-populated areas and, more importantly, aren't moving. Your dog might not be lost where people are around, and the delay on pinging home can mean it's frustratingly inaccurate to try to use them. If your pooch is skittish and flees from people, especially strangers, that makes it even less likely that these short-range devices are going to do you any good.

If you live in a rather densely packed area and can reasonably expect the right kind of phone to be within ten yards of your dog at all times, then sure, these can work. Otherwise, probably not.

What should you look for in a dog GPS tracker?

A lot depends on your needs, but consider these factors:

• Cost. The up-front cost and the over-time operating costs are both important.
• Size and weight. The larger and bulkier a tracker is, the more annoying it will be for your dog, and the more they might try to pull it off.
• Shape and form factor. A lot of modern dog GPS trackers are meant to sit flush with a collar and have a minimum amount of dangling or obstruction. This is primarily because dogs like to chew on things, and if they can reach and chew on a dangly tracker, they can destroy it. It can also get caught on the environment if your dog is lost.
• Reliability. I haven't done the work, so I can't tell you which brands are more reliable, but you'll probably want to read reviews and even something like a Consumer Reports testing report for the tracker you're considering before you invest.
• Accuracy. Some GPS trackers can track with more reliable accuracy or more real-time speed than others. You want one with low enough latency and high enough accuracy that you can use it to track down your pooch.

As long as you keep all of this in mind, you should be able to pick a GPS tracker that suits your needs.

If you have any other questions that I may have missed in this article, be sure to let me know in the comments section! I'd be more than happy to help you out however I can!

Since most puppy parents go through this nibbling phase, I decided to put together a Q&A for the ten most common questions I see about it. If you have a question I didn't answer here, feel free to ask it in the comments! I'm always here to help.

#1: Is Puppy Biting and Nibbling Normal?

Absolutely! As I mentioned in the intro, dogs don't have hands, which is something we all know, but it can sometimes not quite sink in what that means for how they interact with the world around them. They can bark. They can sniff and smell. They can paw at and dig and scratch with their toes. But, most of the time, they're going to use their mouth. They bite things, nibble and chew on them, even suckle on them if they're deep in puppy mode. Even adult dogs do this, which is why we always give them toys to play with that involve chewing and nibbling. Whether it's rawhide, a Kong filled with peanut butter, or just a plushie they can't put down, they're going to be using their mouths to handle it.

Well, puppies are the same way. The only difference is they're still babies, so they're still learning what is and isn't acceptable. They know they have to use their mouths to interact with the world, but they don't know what does and doesn't taste good, what is and isn't allowable to chew on, what can hurt them if they bite it and it sticks or pokes at them, and so on. They'll eventually figure out some of it – and your training and reinforcement handles the rest – but it takes time.

It's also worth mentioning that some breeds are more prone to chewing and biting than others. Cattle dogs and other working dogs, for example, tend to be a little more bitey. Anxious breeds might have a bit of an oral fixation to calm their nerves as well.

#2: Can You Train a Puppy to Stop Biting?

Of course! In fact, it's right up there, along with basic commands and potty training, as something you should get to work on as soon as you can. Puppies can be receptive to training very young, and it only takes a couple of weeks of consistency to teach them a behavior that will last their lifetimes.

Here's the thing, though: you aren't teaching your puppy not to bite. I can't stress this enough: dogs need to interact with the world, and trying to prevent biting fully is going to be impossible. What you want to stop is inappropriate biting. It's one thing to nibble on a toy; it's quite another to bite at any hand coming near that toy.

Chew training is about redirecting biting to the appropriate kinds of items. Whenever you're interacting with your puppy, and they're likely to be biting, keep a toy or chew of some sort nearby and put it at their mouth when they try. Doing this consistently to redirect their behavior is almost all you need.

It's also a good idea to recognize when biting is happening because your pup is overstimulated and it's time for a nap. The more they're taking nips at you, the more likely they just need to calm down.

#3: Is Your Puppy Biting Out of Aggression?

Almost definitely not. Puppies are energetic and rambunctious and, more than anything, innocent. They may feel scared and posture to try to scare off whatever is bothering them. They might try to mimic defensive or aggressive behavior from older dogs around them. But generally, they aren't trying to be aggressive, defensive, or territorial. They're too young for all of that.

Now, this isn't always the case. Sometimes, puppies can show actual aggression, especially if they were born and raised feral and haven't been socialized before. You'll generally be able to recognize their behavior, but it's also possible that you will need to talk to a professional about it.

#4: Why is Your Puppy Suddenly Biting?

If your puppy wasn't much of a biter to begin with, but recently they have started biting more, there are a few possible reasons.

One of the biggest is because they're teething. Puppies develop their primary teeth – the needle teeth they have as babies – around three to six weeks of age. These are sharp and usually come in without much issue, and they're the sharp and painful teeth that cause problems when you're playing with young dogs. Even then, your puppy may or may not be very mouthy at this age.

When they reach around 12 weeks old, their primary teeth will start to fall out, and their permanent teeth will start to grow in. This can be an irritating and bothersome process, and your puppy might seek things to chew on simply to have something to alleviate that discomfort.

It's also occasionally possible that they're suffering some other medical ailment that is causing them pain and aggravation, which is, in turn, driving them to seek some kind of stimulus to distract or alleviate. They might also nip and snap at you out of an instinctual defensiveness. In these cases, you'll need to bring them in for a checkup to see what might be causing problems.

#5: Does Yelping When Bitten Help?

This one is a tricky question. A common piece of advice for when your puppy bites you is to make a yelping noise and pull back. Supposedly, this teaches your puppy that what they did hurt you, and since puppies are empathetic and social creatures, they don't want to do something that hurts you, and they learn that it's a bad thing to do.

The trouble is, not all puppies interpret it the same way, and a lot of it depends on the context around the noise you make. Some puppies can recognize your yelp as a cry of pain and will stop. Others might interpret it in the same way they would a squeaky toy: an interesting, compelling, and fun noise that actually encourages more biting.

As with most dog training, what you actually want to do is pick a denial word. Even something as simple as "no" or "stop" is enough, and it works doubly well if you're already using that word to disincentivize other behaviors.

Part of the trick with this kind of training, though, is that you have to actually remove yourself from the situation so they can't just ignore you and keep biting. Whether that means putting them in a pen, behind a gate, or on the other side of a door, you're just clearly signaling that playtime is over because they bit.

#6: What Kinds of Toys are Appropriate to Redirect Biting?

Part of training a behavior you can't stop, like biting, is to redirect it to something that it's acceptable to bite. So, what kinds of toys are acceptable, and what aren't?

Avoid anything that is too hard and could break teeth, anything that doesn't bend or flex when bitten, or anything that can break into sharp edges or shards. Unfortunately, since this encompasses practically everything, you're going to have to maintain supervision. Many dog toys and chews are edible and soft, but sufficiently large bites can still cause blockages and problems. Other chews may be resilient but can be a choking hazard once your pup reaches a large enough size. Talk to your vet about what they recommend, as well.

The biggest risks of an inappropriate toy are accidental swallowing, leading to blockages in the throat (that suffocate), blockages of the bowel (leading to impaction and surgery), or perforation. All of these are obviously terrible, so be careful to watch what your puppy is chewing on, no matter how safe it claims to be.

#7: Do You Even Really Need to Train Away Biting?

This is a bit of a contentious question. As I said above, chewing and biting is how a dog learns and interacts with the world, so you can't get rid of the behavior entirely. It's just the inappropriate and excessive biting that causes problems. But here's the thing: most of the time, that's a teething thing, just a phase they go through when their mouth is changing and they're irritated. In a lot of cases, you might even think your training is working, but it just coincides with them aging out of that phase.

Training is necessary when a puppy is excessively biting everything, but otherwise, it's often not as important as other kinds of behaviors.

#8: What Other Options Are There?

If you've tried the stern commands, the walking away, and the waiting it out, and nothing seems to work, what can you try when all else has failed?

One of the biggest revelations of puppy behavior is that, much like human children, puppies don't know how to regulate themselves and their emotions. When they're tired, cranky, overstimulated, exhausted, or they want something, they have a feeling, but they can't necessarily recognize what that feeling is or how to express it in a way that gets what they want. Biting is one of their only means of expressing themselves.

So, consider. What have you been doing, and what does your puppy need? Are they hungry or thirsty? Are they cooped up and energetic and need some outlet? Are they overstimulated and need to settle down for a nap? Sometimes, the best thing you can do is put them in a dark room where they can curl up for a nap and let them doze off.

#9: Is There Anything to Know in Multi-Person Households?

There sure is! One of the biggest challenges with training a dog is consistency. You're looking to reinforce behaviors with rewards, but to do that, you need vigilance and consistency across the board. If you are encouraging a particular behavior – or rewarding not performing a behavior, like biting – and another member of your family is just letting it go, it becomes an inconsistent and ineffectual training method.

Mixed messages make it much harder to effectively train any behavior, whether it's potty training, a trick, or anything else.

It can be difficult to get children to play along, but the worst is when another adult is subverting your control and training. Everyone in the household needs to be on the same page. Otherwise, you're going to end up with a troubled and difficult-to-control dog as they get older.

#10: What's the Most Important Advice for Puppy Biting?

Everything is contextual. Every puppy is different. Some breeds have predilections for biting, while others are calmer and won't nibble as much. Some are much more energetic and prone to all manner of such behaviors, while others are more content to nap in between play sessions.

It's important to learn what your puppy's attitude is and how they respond to different kinds of stimuli and training. Sometimes, the tips you find online work perfectly, and sometimes, your puppy ignores them. Finding what works for you and your pooch is a big part of training, and learning what most motivates your puppy will help throughout their life.

As always, though, make sure you're never physically punishing your puppy for biting or other behaviors. Physical discipline doesn't work and creates a less social, more aggressive dog.

There you have it! Ten of the most common questions I've heard – or ways to answer them anyway. If you have any other questions, feel free to let me know! You can also check the rest of this blog for a lot more dog and puppy advice, cat advice, and more. And, if you need toys, brushes, or treats or are interested in my eBook on dog training and grooming, by all means, check out my store! There's something in there for every pet parent.

Generally used for aromatherapy and adding scents to items, essential oils can have a variety of effects on our bodies and minds, usually in the realm of stress relief and overall calm. Plus, they just smell nice!

A topic that comes up pretty frequently is how these essential oils work with dogs. Are they safe or dangerous? Are they effective or meaningless? How can you make the best use of them? Let's talk about it.

What Are Essential Oils?

What even is an essential oil?

Every plant is made up of a wide variety of chemicals when you break it down into its component parts. Among the many different organic chemicals, some of them come in the form of oils.

These oils are what give plants their distinct aromas and flavors. Sometimes, it's a brilliant scent like sandalwood or lavender. Sometimes, it's a pungent combination of scent and flavor like those of garlic and onion.

Sometimes, it's harsh and acrid, and the oils are more often used in other preparations rather than as oils.

Essential oil is what you get when you take a plant, strip out every part of it that isn't one of these oils, and concentrate it down.

Have you ever held a sprig of mint or a bunch of lavender in your hands and smelled the fragrance that comes from it when you lightly crush or break the plant? That's a minuscule amount of essential oil being released.

A true essential oil is vastly more concentrated and extremely potent. Just a single drop of essential oil can be enough to infuse something like a blanket or plushie with scent for days or weeks, and just a few drops can scent an entire candle.

How Do Essential Oils Work?

Physically and chemically, essential oils are oil-based compounds that carry the molecules that are themselves the scent and flavor components of a plant. For some plants, you're after the scent, and for others, both scent and flavor are important. Chemicals like monoterpenes, terpenoids, and phenylpropanoids are the most common, though every essential oil has a different set of compounds.

As for medicinal uses, there's more questioning involved. Essential oils are used as part of aromatherapy, which means it's all about the smell. When you smell an essential oil, some of those compounds are making their way into your system and can react chemically with other compounds in your body.

Some essential oils can promote calmness, fight stress, and, in some cases, possibly even help alleviate minor pain and fight the effects of depression.

Disclaimer: Modern medical science is still studying how aromatherapy works and what therapeutic benefits it has on both people and animals. Essential oils aren't going to do something extreme like fight off illness or cure disease, but stress is a core contributing factor to many illnesses, so stress reduction can be very beneficial in conjunction with other treatments. At the very least, when used properly, essential oils aren't going to be harmful.

To use an essential oil, you generally use a diffuser of some sort. These are often similar to humidifiers but can also be as simple as reeds that wick up oil and diffuse it into the air via passive evaporation. There are many different kinds of diffusers, and you can always directly apply essential oil to something like a pillow or plush toy as well.

Are Essential Oils Safe for Dogs?

Yes and no.

One thing we all know about dogs is that they have an incredibly powerful sense of smell. Most dogs are at least 10,000 times keener than human senses, and some of the more scent-focused breeds can be as much as 100,000 times stronger in their sense of smell than we are.

What this means is that a single drop of a powerful essential oil, which is enough to flood your room with a strong scent, can be overwhelming to even the least sensitive of our fur babies. Even a scent that isn't dangerous to dogs can still be unpleasant until it fades.

Moreover, dogs have different kinds of physiologies than we people do. You know this well, right? Things we enjoy, like chocolate and garlic, are toxic to dogs. It's why we should always avoid giving dogs human food, especially things like spiced meats, because we love cooking with compounds that other creatures can't eat safely. And, sure, while a dog eating a bit of meat that was cooked using garlic powder is unlikely to die from it, even that digestive distress isn't something any of us want to deal with, let alone our poor fur babies.

What Are the Benefits of Essential Oils for Dogs?

If you're considering using essential oils for your dog, the question is, for what? What can an essential oil do, and how can it benefit your fuzzball?

Relaxation and anti-anxiety effects. For much the same reason as why we people use essential oils, they can have some impact on relaxing our furry friends and helping calm down their anxiety.

Skin benefits. Some essential oils have antibacterial properties and can help soothe dry and irritated skin, along with fighting off rashes, skin infections, and parasites. It's not as effective as a prescription treatment, but in cases where you don't need something that strong, an essential oil concoction might be a good idea.

Joint health. Dogs with joint problems, especially older dogs with arthritis, may benefit from certain essential oils that are known to have anti-inflammatory properties and can potentially soothe joint pain.

Respiratory support. Have you ever tried Vicks Vapo-Rub? That pungent menthol scent suffusing your sinuses helps to clear them out when you're feeling under the weather. Some essential oils can have a similar effect on both you and your pooch when you're suffering from congestion or a cold.

Bug repellant. Nobody likes bug bites, and while our fur babies have thick fur coats that can ward off many bugs, a dab of certain essential oils can repel those bugs from even getting close.

Deodorizing. If your fur baby rolled in something or just has a scent about them and you can't seem to get rid of it with a bath, a bit of essential oil can at least help mask it while it fades.

It's all about picking the right essential oils and using them safely and properly. So, let's get into that discussion next.

Which Essential Oils Should You Avoid?

First, let's talk about the essential oils you absolutely should never use on your fur baby or even in the same household as them. These essential oils are toxic and dangerous to dogs, so no matter how good they smell to you, avoid them.

You can divide the dangerous oils into two groups. One group is the "never use" group; these are dangerous enough that no matter how well you use them, you risk doing serious harm to your fur baby. The second group is the "dangerous" oils; these can be used sparingly and carefully to good effect but need to be very carefully controlled to avoid doing harm.

First, the Never Use list:

• Tea Tree. While it's commonly used in people for skin issues, it can cause extreme skin irritation, respiratory issues, lethargy, and even organ damage in dogs.
• Cinnamon. Thoroughly toxic to dogs, this essential oil can lead to vomiting, intestinal distress, and liver damage.
• Pennyroyal. A less common essential oil, this one can cause serious liver damage and damage to the nervous system and should be avoided entirely.
• Clove. A powerful oil for numbing pain, particularly dental pain, this should never be used for dogs because of the risk of serious organ damage.
• Wintergreen. Similar to peppermint, wintergreen is more dangerous and less beneficial than its cousin. In particular, one of the chemicals giving it the characteristic smooth mint scent is closely related to aspirin, which can cause aspirin toxicity. Avoid it.

Next, the Use with Caution list:

• Peppermint. Peppermint has a lot of benefits and smells great, but it's very, very easy to overdo it because of how strong it is. It can also be toxic to dogs in larger quantities, so if you use it, use it very sparingly.
• Thyme. While it's not deadly toxic to dogs, it can be irritating if not diluted or used properly, so it is best to use with caution. We use it in our repel & revive paw balm to help with bacterial and yeast overgrowth in dogs with skin folds.

"Oregano oil, thyme oil, carvacrol and thymol exhibited antibacterial activity against all bacterial and fungal isolates tested." - Vet Dermatol Study Published on NIH

There are some other oils that could be added to these lists, but you aren't likely to find them in common use. Either way, always check for specific oils and their effects on dogs before you choose to use them, just to be safe.

Which Essential Oils Should You Use?

So, what are the safest essential oils to use on dogs? Here's my list.

1. Lavender

2. Cedarwood

3. Rosemary

4. Cornmint (Wild Mint)

5. Frankincense

6. Chamomile

7. Bergamot

8. Geranium

9. Ginger

10. Citronella

11. Myrrh

12. Lemongrass

13. Helichrysum

14. Spearmint

15. Jasmine

16. Neroli

17. Patchouli

18. Cypress

19. Palmarosa

20. Petitgrain

21. Valerian

22. Marjoram

23. Clary Sage

You'll want to look up what each oil can treat and how it can benefit your fur baby before picking one, and read my tips on using them effectively if you're going to get started with essential oils.

How Can You Use Essential Oils Safely for Your Pooch?

Picking an essential oil is only the first step. You also need to know how to use them safely. A discussed some essential tips on how to safely use essential oils in the home in a previous post, here are additional tips.

Start Small.

Use a very diluted essential oil, and only use it for a short time. While you do, keep an eye on your pooch and make sure they aren't showing any signs of illness or distress. Lethargy, trouble breathing, and signs of nervous system issues are all reasons to stop and consult your vet immediately.

Remember, even if an oil isn't toxic to all dogs, your dog might be allergic or sensitive to it, so it could irritate them specifically. Allergic reactions can be very serious and require veterinary attention, so don't set and forget your essential oils.

Never Use an Essential Oil Directly on Your Fur Baby.

There are two big reasons for this. The first is that you almost never need to; essential oils are all about the scent, and there are much better ways to address skin issues than applying an oil.

Moreover, a concentrated essential oil can cause chemical burns; you need to make sure it's properly diluted to even consider topical use, and at that point, you've reduced the effectiveness of the oil enough that it's more for scent than effect anyway.

The second and more important reason is that dogs are dogs. They groom themselves, and the way they do that is by licking themselves. If you wouldn't feed your dog something, you shouldn't put it on their skin or fur either because when they lick themselves, they may as well be eating it. The only exception to this is if they're in a cone or e-collar to prevent licking, but you shouldn't put them in a cone just for an essential oil.

Next, Limit Your Use of Essential Oils and Rotate Them.

You don't want to saturate an area with scent. You'll get used to it and start to use it more, even unconsciously, and that can be irritating. Moreover, since the scent is the important part, getting used to the scent will start to remove the impact of the oil.

The best way to use an essential oil is either with a basic diffuser and a very dilute oil or to put a drop or two into something like a pillow or other object that your fur baby doesn't chew on. Again, you don't want them ingesting the oil, just smelling it. There are plenty of objects designed just for this; you can always make your own, too.

Finally, Never Use Essential Oils In Place of Real Veterinary Treatment.

Essential oils should be complementary and supplementary, not in replacement of effective medicines. You don't want your fur baby to suffer unnecessarily, right? Trust that your vet cares for animals as much as you do and won't steer you wrong.

So, after reading this article, do you have any questions about essential oils or how to use them around your canine companions? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

Nobody likes to see their fur baby in pain or sick, and if aspirin helps us when we’re ailing, surely it would help them, too, right?

In today’s blog post, I go an inch wide and a mile deep to discuss aspirin for dogs. From the safety of aspirin for dogs to the risks, to safe aspirin alternatives, to holistic pain management options for your dog.

As always, if you are looking for research-backed dog care guides you can actually trust, feel free to visit my blog and search by topic. I’m sure you'll learn a thing or two that will improve your dog’s life.

When it comes to giving dogs aspirin, the truth is perhaps a bit more complicated than you might think, so read on to learn everything there is to know about aspirin for dogs.

First Things First: What is Aspirin?

Aspirin is a type of drug intended for human consumption. It’s used to treat pain, inflammation, or arthritis and it’s part of a group of drugs known as nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID).

At toe beans, we are fanatics of pet parent education. We believe educated and well-informed pet parents make better decisions on behalf of their beloved fur children.

And so, as a general rule of thumb, before you administer anything to your dog, it is always wise to educate yourself about it.

Here's what VCA animal hospitals says about aspirin for pets:

“It’s use in cats, dogs, and small mammals to treat excessive clotting, inflammation, fever, and pain is 'off label' or 'extra label'. Many drugs are commonly prescribed for off label use in veterinary medicine. In these instances, follow your veterinarian’s directions and cautions very carefully as their directions may be significantly different from those on the label.” – VCA Animal Hospitals

Now the question you might have at this point is, what is extra label drug use aka ELDU? Here is what the American Veterinary Medical Association says about it:

“ELDU describes the use of an approved drug in a manner that is not in accordance with the approved labeling, yet meets the conditions set forth by the Animal Medicinal Drug Use Clarification Act of 1994 (AMDUCA) and U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulations.” – American Veterinary Medical Association

Although the FDA has approved some NSAIDS for veterinary medicine (such as Carprofen, Deracoxib, Firocoxib and a few others), aspirin is not one of them.

Is Aspirin Safe for Dogs?

Yes, but also no. Aspirin can be safe for some dogs in the right dosage, in moderation, and of course so long as it is used under the supervision of a veterinarian.

You should always talk to your vet before giving your pup a non-prescribed medication. Every pup is an individual, so their medical background and currently prescribed medications will need to be taken into consideration.

So, while it’s safe when used properly, if your dog knocked over a bottle and ate the pills, you'll need to rush them to the emergency vet.

Keep in mind that aspirin or acetylsalicylic acid (ASA) is also an ingredient in other products such as topical medications, make-up and even shampoo. So, if you get regular puppy kisses, they could be ingesting small amounts on a regular basis.

As with any drug, the key is dosage. Taking too much aspirin can be deadly.

Many vets recommend using one baby aspirin for every 10 pounds of body weight, or one adult aspirin for every 40 pounds of weight, every 12 hours.

If you plan to give your dog aspirin, make sure to keep track of how much you give them and when, so you don't give them too much.

If you suspect you've given your pet too much aspirin, contact your veterinary or pet poison helpline immediately at 1-800-213-6680.

Is Aspirin Approved for Dogs?

No. The FDA has not evaluated aspirin as a medication for dogs.

Additionally, and perhaps most importantly, there are no guarantees of safety when administering human aspirin to your dog.

Nevertheless, as noted above, while aspirin itself has not been approved for dogs, there are several other NSAIDs that have been reviewed and FDA approved for use in dogs.

Keep in mind though, they all require a veterinarian prescription. You should stay away from over-the-counter NSAIDS for pets.

Here's the official FDA’s position about the use of OTC NSAIDS for pets:

“No over-the-counter NSAIDs for dogs and cats are FDA-approved. Any NSAID marketed for dogs or cats online or in a pet store without the need for a prescription from a veterinarian is an unapproved animal drug, meaning FDA has not reviewed information about the drug. An unapproved animal drug may not meet the agency’s strict standards for safety and effectiveness and may not be properly manufactured or properly labeled.” - FDA

You may have heard of many people that have successfully given aspirin to dogs who may also have even had their vets prescribe it. You may also have run into “canine aspirin” online.

Emily Bebout, a veterinary information specialist at the pet poison helpline warns about the use of OTC NSAIDs for your dog.

"I completely understand why owner’s give dogs OTC medication. Your vet is closed, and your dog is in pain. We all hate to see our furry companions in pain and want to do whatever we can to ease their suffering. However, giving medications that are not prescribed can cause more harm than good." | Pet Poison Helpline

Very important to emphasize here, once again, is that aspirin is not technically studied and approved as a canine medication.

If you do give your pup aspirin, make a sure that it’s pure aspirin and doesn’t have other ingredients.

Other pain relievers, like naproxen or ibuprofen, are much more dangerous to dogs than they are to people and can be very damaging or even deadly.

Not all pain relievers are created equal, so always make sure you know what‘s in the medicine you give to your fur baby.

What Are the Benefits of Giving a Dog Aspirin?

While not FDA approved for your dog, and as long as it is used under veterinarian supervision, aspirin does a few things to the body, all through one mechanism.I mentioned above that aspirin is a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory medication, or NSAID.

It blocks something called prostaglandins, which are the chemicals that convey pain sensations to the brain from the body.

The medication can temporarily relieve pain, reduce inflammation caused by pain responses, and can reduce fever and the risk of blood clots.

• Pain relief is the leading reason to give a dog aspirin. It's one of the more effective low-key pain relievers for humans we've developed as a society, with few side effects compared to something like opioids, and it's relatively safe enough to be sold over the counter. Leg injuries, osteoarthritis, and dental issues are all common sources of pain that aspirin might help treat.
• Inflammation and fever can both be addressed by NSAIDs in general. Aspirin might not be the best NSAID to give your pup, but if you're in a tricky situation and can't get a prescription for several days, it might suffice in a pinch. You might consider taking your dog to the emergency vet if they're in that sticky a situation, though.
• Blood clot risk. Sometimes your dog might have a condition or be on other medications (or after a surgery) where blood clotting can be a real risk. In these cases, a bit of aspirin can be a good way to help thin out the blood and minimize the chances of a dangerous clot. This will generally come as a prescription from your vet, though. Note that you shouldn't give your dog aspirin before a surgery, to minimize bleeding risk during the procedure.
• A few new studies have been performed that seem to indicate aspirin might be able to help cut back on eye problems in diabetic dogs. More studies will need to be conducted to figure out how and when to administer aspirin for this effect and if it's worth the potential risks, however.

Is Aspirin Risky for Dogs?

Yes. Aspirin can cause a number of different side effects.

“There are specific times when your veterinarian may prescribe aspirin for your pet. Your veterinarian will recommend an appropriate dose and formulation for your pet and their medical condition. If your pet is in pain, do not give aspirin. Contact your veterinarian. Your veterinarian can recommend a safer and more effective pain reliever made specifically for pets.” - Petmd.com

If your dog is allergic to aspirin, it can cause allergic reactions that can be highly damaging or deadly.

Too much aspirin, or aspirin too often for too long, can also lead to problems. These problems can include asthma, ulcers in the digestive tract, kidney issues, liver damage, and complications from internal bleeding.

Aspirin can also inhibit the body's ability to heal, both directly and indirectly. Inflammation and fever, while unpleasant and potentially dangerous, are part of the immune system's response to injury and infection. By tamping them down, it makes it harder for the body to fight off invaders. In extreme cases, it can even extend the duration of an illness.

Pain relievers also make it more likely to re-injure an injury that is in the process of healing. Pain is a signal that something is wrong, after all. If your dog strains a leg muscle and you give them pain relievers, they might be too active for their injury and could further exacerbate the injury.

Too much aspirin at once can also lead to aspirin toxicity. This can also occur if you give them aspirin regularly for too long. Symptoms to watch out for include lethargy, fever, vomiting, diarrhea, blood in stool, difficulty walking, and a loss of appetite.

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How Much Aspirin Should You Give Your Dog?

As little as you can.

There are relatively little sources of guidance on how much aspirin to give a dog. Considerations must be made for the breed, weight, and size of your dog, as well as the reason why you're giving them the pain reliever in the first place.

For safety reasons, you’ll want to talk to your vet and have them do the calculations.

Again, we don’t recommend giving aspirin to your dog, but if you are in a desperate position and you feel you must, the Merck Manual recommends a range of between 10 and 40 milligrams per kilogram of dog weight.

This is for a generally healthy dog, though, so various conditions and health situations can adjust this number.

Don't just wing it!

Remember, aspirin can be very dangerous to dogs if it's administered improperly.

When is it Okay to Give a Dog Aspirin?

Rarely.

The three general reasons why you might give your dog aspirin include:

• A musculoskeletal injury, like a sprain, strain, or torn muscle, ligament, tendon, or cracked or broken bone. These sources of pain can be hindering to a pup, and relieving some of the burden can make both them and you feel better. Obviously if you suspect a serious injury, a vet visit should always be a top priority. Plus, your pup may need stronger drugs to control their pain.
• An illness that involves a fever and inflammation. Aspirin can help reduce these symptoms while they get over the illness.
• Osteoarthritis from aging. Old dogs don't have to worry as much about long-term side effects, and a bit of aspirin can help them maintain mobility and a higher quality of life as they reach their golden years.

I know, I’m starting to sound like a broken record, but it's worth repeating, you generally should not give your dog aspirin without the advice of a vet telling you to do so.

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They may have alternative ways you can reduce pain and symptoms in your fur baby, and you need their advice on dosage and frequency.

At an annual check-up consider asking your vet some ‘what if’ questions to see if aspirin would be an appropriate option.

How Long Can You Keep Giving Your Dog Aspirin?

As limited of a time span as possible.

Aspirin doesn't entirely flush out of the system right away, so the longer you keep administering the medication, the more small amounts of it can build up until it eventually reaches a point of causing side effects and problems.

With any medication the goal is to use it for a short of time as possible to reach it’s intended purpose.

If your pup has long-term pain such as osteoarthritis, there are many treatment options available, so discuss your concerns with your vet to determine the best treatment plan to ensure the best quality of life.

Can Aspirin Interact with Other Medications?

Yes. Aspirin can interact with other medications, which is why you shouldn’t administer it without discussing it with your vet.

Aspirin can make other medications either more effective or less effective.

ACE inhibitors, which are used for blood pressure regulation, can double up on anticoagulant effects and cause bleeding problems when taken with aspirin.

Heparin and other anticoagulants have a similar effect. When your dog is taking multiple medications with the same effect, it can go out of control.

Other medications you shouldn't combine with aspirin include:

• SSRIs and antidepressants.
• Blood glucose-lowering medications.
• Phenobarbital.
• Steroids like prednisone.
• Spironolactone.
• Calcium channel blockers.
• Furosemide.

Please note this isn't necessarily a complete list, either.

Is Human Aspirin Okay for Dogs?

Not usually, no.

Aspirin can damage your dog’s stomach lining. Aspirin made for people has a coating on it to help protect it while the stomach does its work.

The coating is designed to dissolve as it passes through the stomach, and the medication starts to enter the bloodstream once it passes through the stomach and into the intestines.

Unfortunately, your dog generally can't digest that coating at all. If they eat the pill whole, they won't get the medication entering their system much, if at all.

Alternatively, your vet may recommend buying baby aspirin or grinding up aspirin and adding it to food or a treat. You need to be careful of dosage no matter the avenue of administration.

Are There Alternatives to Aspirin for Dogs?

Yes.

To recap, aspirin is an NSAID, and there are many other NSAIDs out there, but most human NSAIDs are more dangerous for dogs.

The good news is there are re are a handful of NSAIDs made specifically for dogs that you can try.

As noted above, these include Carprofen, Deracoxib, Firocoxib, Meloxicam, and Grapiprant. You can find these under brand names like Novox, Rimadyl, Deramaxx, Previcox, Metacam, and Galliprant. These medications will require a prescription from your veterinarian.

There are also other kinds of medications you can give to your dog for pain-relieving effects.

Gabapentin is a painkiller used in both humans and animals and is a good option for nerve pain. It usually causes sleepiness, at least for the first few days.

Tramadol is another possible pain reliever, like a mild opioid. It has a bunch of digestive side effects though, like vomiting and constipation, but it can be an effective option in some situations.

Another option is to look into supplements and holistic medications. Some people swear by turmeric for dogs, though its therapeutic effects are much less than what you get from a real medication.

CBD can be a good option, too, though it, of course, has caveats as well. You can read all about CBD for dogs here.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask me! I'm not a vet, but I'm a lover of all four-legged friends, and I do my best to give you all the best information I can. You can drop any potential questions you may have in the comments section down below!

For dogs, one of those unusual exports is yellow poo. What causes it, and is it reason to be concerned?

Just like with us humans, your dog’s poop consistency and color can tell you a lot about a dog’s health. So, if you see a color change and it becomes a recurrent incidence, it’s important to bring it up with your vet to identify the underlying cause.

Today’s post is all about poop color, particularly when it comes out yellow. I’ll discuss what your dog’s normal poop color should be, different causes why yellow poop happens, and other common dog poop colors.

And, if you want to become a poop nerd, and want to learn what is considered "normal" poo for your pup, I've added a short great education video.

Let's dig in. Or, well, no, that sounds a little gross. Let's investigate. There, that sounds better!

What Color Should a Healthy Dog Poop Be?

Generally, a happy and healthy dog’s poop should be chocolate brown. Depending on changes in your dog’s diet you can expect the color to range from medium to dark brown.

“A healthy dog’s gallbladder releases bile to help break down food. Bilirubin, contained in bile, is added to the stool that makes it that chocolate-brown color. Some slight changes in color are normal as a result of a different diet or hydration. However, dog poop should generally stay brown.” - Found Animals.org

While occasional small deviations from medium to dark brown won’t in all cases represent a serious issue, you’ll want to make sure to note unusual poops when they do happen.

Context is very important when it comes to evaluating your dog’s poop. Ask yourself questions such as, is the change in color also happening with changes in behavior? Has the poop’s consistency, contents, and/or coating also changed?

The answers to these questions will help your vet determine the best action plan for your pup.

Color is not the only factor in assessing your dog’s poop. Watch the short video below to learn more.

What is Normal Poop for Your Dog by Dr. Karen Becker | 1:25 Mins Video

What Can Cause a Dog to Have Yellow Poop?

When you notice an odd or unusual color coming from your fur baby's rear end, you might be concerned, or you might panic, or you simply might think it's just normal variations.

Different colors can mean very different things, so what does yellowish poop say about your dog and their health?

Luckily, yellow poop is one of the least dangerous non-brown colors a dog can expel. While there are a few potentially dangerous causes, the most common is simply a food intolerance.

In a way, it's similar to the impact on the body that you might experience eating dairy when you're lactose intolerant, though with the, er, consistency issues.

Other potential issues that can cause yellow stool in a dog are digestion issues, infections, issues with particular organs, and food coloring.

Only a few of these are potentially dangerous; the others just mean you might need to pick a different food or treat for your fur baby.

How Does Diet Cause Yellow Poop?

Diet issues generally come down to food.

A change in poop color often crops up when you've changed the food your fur baby is eating, and their tummy doesn’t agree with the new food. They might be allergic to one of the ingredients in the new food, or they might have an intolerance to it.

“Mustard-colored stool may indicate that your dog is experiencing a food intolerance. It can occur if you switch your pup’s food to something new. The food may contain ingredients your pup’s stomach is unfamiliar with, or they may be allergic to the new food altogether.” - Wrigley Ville Veterinary

Whatever the case, their body reacts poorly to eating it, and their poop will be yellow in color or laced with yellow bile since their body didn't process it in its hurry to get it out.

You’ve probably heard of irritable bowel syndrome (IBS), which is triggered by something in the diet. Don’t confuse IBS with IBD (inflammatory bowel disease), which is a chronic condition, which will likely need medication to manage.

This can be accompanied with stomach pain, indigestion, or diarrhea. Luckily, it tends to be transient, so if you changed food recently and your dog started having yellow poos, it's easy enough to change back.

Pro tip: Switching to a new food should be done gradually over a week to 10 days to avoid stomach upset.

“If you end up doing a sudden diet change, your dog may have some diarrhea because they aren’t used to the new diet yet. This is usually temporary and will resolve without treatment but can be unpleasant for both of you. If the diarrhea lasts more than a day or two, or if your dog has other symptoms, call your veterinarian to get some probiotics or anti-diarrhea medications to help ease the transition.” – Cornell College of Veterinary Medicine

The biggest issue is when you're changing food for a particular health reason or at your vet’s recommendation.

You'll need to find a different food that eliminates the issues the current food causes, whatever those issues may be. It can take some trial and error before you narrow down what ingredients are causing the digestive upset.

Pro tip: The best option is to look at the old food and write down all of the ingredients. Then look at the new food and write down anything that wasn't on the first list.

That's your short list of potential ingredients causing the problem.

With this list in hand, you’ll want to try new foods that eliminate at least one of those ingredients. You still need to transition slowly, so give it some time to see how your pup responds to the new food.

If you don't have the time, money, or luxury of being able to diagnose this yourself, you can also take your fur baby to the vet for some testing. Dog allergy tests can help narrow down what ingredients to avoid.

It won't work for sensitivities, though. Sadly, there's always the potential risk of contaminated food, and that's not something you'll find on ingredient lists.

If you opened a new bag of food, the same brand you’ve been buying, and suspect it’s the culprit, do a quick search to see if the lot was recalled. It happens more often than you probably realize.

You can run a quick search on the US Food and Drug Administration Recalls and Withdrawals Database.

When in doubt, a homemade meal of chicken and rice is usually hearty enough and has the right balance of nutrition to keep your fur baby going while you work on introducing other foods to figure out what one is causing the problem.

“Mild cases of diarrhea in both cats and dogs can be treated at home by feeding a bland diet such as boiled chicken or low-fat hamburger, and white rice,” says Miller. Cooked pasta is another option. These foods are easy to digest, so they give your dog’s GI tract a break.” – Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine

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Remember to lay off on the spices. Things like onion and garlic make food taste yummy to us, but they are harmful to your pup.

Now, keep in mind that while feeding your dog chicken and rice may be a great way to reduce upset stomach symptoms, this shouldn’t be done for more than a couple of days, or until symptoms disappear.

Alternatively, oats are usually a better option than rice for soothing your dog's upset stomach.

Another thing you should never do in cases of diarrhea is to give your dog human medicine.

“Never try human medications such as Pepto Bismol (bismuth subsalicylate) or Imodium (loperamide) unless directed by a veterinarian, as they can be harmful to certain dogs and may not pair well with other medications.”- Cornell College of Veterinary Medicine

What Infections Can Cause Yellow Poop?

Infections are one of the more potentially dangerous sources of yellow tint in dog poo.

Bacteria, viruses, parasites, and even fungal infections can throw the body off kilter and leave your fur baby pushing more bile and other bodily fluids into the intestines, rather than using it the way it's meant to be used, giving the stool a yellow color.

Parasites are of special concern in puppies as they may not have been vaccinated yet.

There are multiple types of worms that can cause soft, yellow stool. The good news is these parasites can be easily identified with a stool sample analysis done by your vet.

With infections, yellow won't be the only change you'll notice, though. There may be streaks of blood, it may be extra soft or extra firm, or even almost watery. In cases of parasites, you might even notice bits of worm in the poo, which is a surefire sign of a parasitic infection.

The good news is in most cases, a trip to the vet – even a virtual vet visit or a phone call – can be enough to get the medication you need prescribed and give it to your fur baby.

Typically, some medications (antibiotics for bacteria, antivirals for viruses, antifungals for fungi, and antiparasitics for worms) will run their course, take out the infection, and leave your fur baby recovering in short order.

If you notice other signs of your fur baby being sick, like lethargy, trouble eating, vomiting, sniffling, pain, or other behavioral changes, you'll want to take your fur baby to the vet for a full examination.

Is Yellow Poop an Organ Issue in Dogs?

One of the rarer causes of yellow poo – and one of the reasons you need to be especially vigilant and talk to your vet just in case – is that it can be a sign of organ issues.

Specifically, there are a few organs that can lead to yellow, yellowish, or even orange or orangish stool.

Can Liver Problems Cause Yellow Stools in My Dog?

The first is the liver. The liver is a giant filter that takes in blood from the body and filters out toxins the blood carries away from the cells.

If the liver isn't working right, it can lead to jaundice, which colors just about everything in the body yellow, including eyes, gums, and skin. Liver issues prior to jaundice can cause the poop to turn yellow too, and they're definitely something you need to have looked at.

“The most common causes of liver disease (in dogs) include viral or bacterial infections, ingestion of toxic plants or chemicals, certain drugs and medications, cancer, autoimmune diseases, and certain breed-specific liver diseases.” - VCA Animal Hospitals

Warning signs of liver issues and liver disease include yellowing of parts of the body, but also vomiting, excessive thirst, excessive peeing, confusion, and even seizures in extreme cases.

Is Orange Poop a Sign of Pancreatitis in My Dog?

The second organ that can cause yellow stools is the pancreas.

Specifically, pancreatitis (the inflammation of the pancreas) happens when digestive enzymes work their way into the pancreas when they shouldn't be there.

“Some breeds, including Terriers and Miniature Schnauzers, may be more prone to pancreatitis than other breeds. It's also more commonly seen in dogs who are over five years old. Dogs with particular health issues, such as obesity, diabetes, or hypothyroidism, can also be at greater risk for pancreatitis.” – ASPCA Health Pet Insurance

With pancreatitis you can expect more of an orangish color. Stools with tones of orange may indicate inflammation of the pancreas (pancreatitis).

It's very painful, and your fur baby can end up with lethargy, a fever, and other similar symptoms.

It should be treated right away, so call your vet if any of those symptoms crop up. Long-term pancreatitis can also lead to canine diabetes, so be on the lookout for that, too.

Can gallbladder problems cause my dog stool to turn yellow?

The third organ that can cause yellow poo is the gallbladder. The gallbladder produces bile for use in the digestive system, particularly in the intestines.

“In rare cases, the gall bladder will rupture due to severe distention and obstruction. This will result in abdominal discomfort, severe lethargy, vomiting, and inappetence. If these signs are noted, your pet should be evaluated immediately as the rupture of the gall bladder requires immediate surgery.” - Veterinary Specialty Center

When the gallbladder gets inflamed or blocked by gallstones (or a tumor), bile backs up or can overflow and lead to bile-laced feces, which will be yellow.

This is both painful and dangerous and shares many of the same symptoms as the previous organ issues, with the same action needed: take them to the vet ASAP.

What Else Can Cause a Dog's Poop to Be Yellow?

One of the more common causes we haven't mentioned yet is just eating something yellow.

Dogs love to eat just about anything that smells like something tasty, and their concept of tasty is very different from our own. That means they're prone to eating all sorts of things that they probably shouldn't.

In this case, anything that has yellow dyes in it can end up yellow in the stool. Rather than uniformly yellow poo, though, it will tend to be uneven in color and clumped up in certain areas. Your pup probably isn't thoroughly chewing their food, after all.

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Common offenders here are often child toys, like yellow crayons, yellow chalk, yellow play-doh, and other such items.

While these are often on the "safe" side of dangerous, they can still be a little hazardous to your pup, even if they're designed to be safe for children.

In most cases, though, once it passes through their system, their poo will be a normal brown again.

Is Yellow Poop Cause for Concern?

Sometimes, yes! Sometimes, no. It's tricky.

As discussed above, food intolerances are by far the safest and the most common causes of yellow poo in dogs.

Either they don't like something they're eating (biologically, that is, they may enjoy eating it), or they're allergic to it. This can be painful and unpleasant for your fur baby, but it won't be an actual problem as long as you stop feeding them the ingredient that disagrees with them.

The other harmless, or mostly harmless, cause of yellow stool is eating something like chalk. While this isn't exactly healthy, it's generally not going to be overly dangerous unless the thing they ate was toxic to them, in which case you'll see a lot more side effects than just yellow stool.

On the other hand, issues like infections and organ failure, gallstones, pancreatitis, or a bowel obstruction can all be dangerous or even life-threatening problems. These all warrant an immediate trip to the vet to get them looked at and treated.

The one saving grace here is that with something like food intolerance, it's typically pretty easy to diagnose.

Did you feed them something new? Are they fine the next day? If so, you're probably in the clear and just need to pick a different food. While the stomach ache can be painful, it's not that dangerous except in extreme allergy cases.

On the other hand, if your fur baby has any symptoms other than yellow poo and maybe some diarrhea or abdominal distension and/or pain, you'll definitely want to take them to the vet.

What Other Colors Might Dog Poo Be?

In general, shades of brown is considered the normal color, and yellow is an abnormal color, but are there other colors that can appear as well? As you may have guessed, the answer is yes.

So, what other colors of poop are possible, and what do they mean?

• Black. Black poo is generally a sign of internal bleeding, usually somewhere in the upper GI tract. This can be something like stomach ulcers as well. Sometimes it can heal on its own, but it's usually best to bring them to the vet just in case since internal bleeding can be quite serious.
• Grey. Grey means your fur baby can't break down the fat in the food they eat. It could be just that they're eating too much fat and can't digest it all before it works its way through them. Or, it could be a problem with their pancreas.
• White specks. White specks in the poo are generally a sign of tapeworms, which shed segments when they get too long. Dewormer will clear it right up, but you should talk to your vet about regular worm medications as well.
• Red. Red is a sign of fresh blood, meaning an injury lower down in the GI tract or actually on the rear end itself. It can also be an issue with anal glands or colitis.
• Purple. Purple poo is rare, but it's a sign of severe gastroenteritis, especially if the poo has a jam-like consistency. An emergency vet is a good idea here.
• Green. Green can be a food coloring issue, a sign that your fur baby is eating grass or houseplants, or a sign of some poisoning.
• Yellow specks. This can be something like partially digested corn, or it can be worms again.

Any color other than brown can be a cause for concern, but when in doubt, ask your vet if you should bring them in. While you're at it, make sure you know other important details, like how often your dog is going each day, the consistency, and their diet.

Do you have any non-medically urgent questions about today's topic, or do you have any stories you think may be helpful to other readers? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below! I'll gladly answer any of your potential questions to the best of my ability, and if you leave a story, I'm sure the other readers would greatly appreciate your input!

You never want to see your fur baby limping, and you know when they start that it could be the beginning of months (or longer) of therapy, restricted movement, and other health issues.

Knee injuries, in particular, are terrible. After all, it's not like you can just talk to your dog and tell them they need to rest their leg!

One common solution to knee injuries is a brace, but there's a lot of controversy about them in the canine world. Are they effective, are they meaningless, or worse, actively hindering healing?

In today’s post I go an inch deep and a mile wide about dog knee injuries and the role of knee braces. I’ve also added a great educational video on one of the most common dog knee injuries cranial cruciate ligament Injury (CCL). This is a must watch!

There's a lot of ground to cover, and you might be surprised at some of the factors at play.

Why Would a Dog Need a Knee Brace?

Dog knee braces are recommended when limited to no motion is required for limb injury healing or to prevent further damage in a joint.

In most cases knee braces, also known as stifle braces, are necessary to limit motion of an injured knee in a dog.

In particular, Cranial Cruciate Ligament (CCL) injuries are some of the most common knee injuries in dogs. Wearing a knee brace limits movement of the leg thus allowing the tendon(s) to tighten up and heal.

In addition to cranial cruciate ligament injuries, stifle braces can also be used for a wide variety of hind leg injuries including patellar luxation and other conditions such as arthritis.

Why Many Are Skeptical of Dog Knee Braces

Dog knee braces have been around for a long time, but for most of that time, vets have shied away from them.

It's not necessarily because they're bad, but more because they weren't properly designed.

You see, when dog parents encounter a limping pup, they want to help in any way they can.

Often, they get the idea that a brace – something we use on our own joints when they are sore or injured – could be the solution. Pretty logical right?

The trouble is most casual pet parents aren't canine anatomists. As humans we understand what bone versus soft tissue injury is and can gauge if and what treatment can be done at home.

With our fur babies you’d have to be able to visually diagnose the cause of the limp, to determine what treatment is appropriate.

Using a brace to immobilize or restrict the motion of a knee is a good way to allow it to heal, by preventing further aggravation to the affected area. However, there are two problems with this DIY approach:

• First, you have little way of knowing what particular part of the knee was injured. Did your fur baby tear their ACL or their CCL? Did they crack their patella or one of the other bones in the area? Is it a more complex injury, or even just a dislocation?
• And second, without knowing the specific injury, you don't necessarily know what kind of motion needs to be restricted.

More importantly, if you put a brace on your fur baby and they go wild with all of their pent-up energy, they could end up overcompensating and tearing their other knee, leaving them in a much worse position for healing. Nobody wants that, right?

Anyway, all of these different factors combined into one perfect storm of skepticism and distrust.

Vets were still working on developing treatments for various knee issues (read more about common dog knee injuries down below), but medical developments take a long time and a lot of testing to get right.

Meanwhile, braces started to hit the market, designed for dogs and sold by pet parents just trying to help their fellow pet parents.

These braces were initially inconsistent in quality and often not quite right in design.

As a result, they would fully immobilize a leg, or immobilize the wrong kind of movement and leave the leg open to further injury, or even fail to provide support the way they would need to for healing.

Vets saw these braces, recognized that they often either did nothing or did more harm than good and shied away from them.

Vets would then recommend surgical procedures and the accompanying rest and support rather than something simple and non-invasive like a brace.

Of course, surgical procedures are invasive, take a long time to heal, and are expensive to boot. Many pet parents couldn't handle it.

Who would choose to pay thousands of dollars and months of recovery for a surgery when a $30 brace from a pet parent blog might do the job?

Why Early Dog Knee Braces Didn't Work

Early dog knee braces didn't work for a few different reasons.

The first is that a lot of them were made out of some kind of fabric. Fabric is flexible and stretchy; that means it can support a knee without getting in the way of your fur baby's ability to live their life, right?

Well, yes, but that's the problem. Fabric stretches, and when you're looking to immobilize a knee, that flexibility means it doesn't actually do what it needs to do.

The brace might provide some additional support to allow your pup to move more confidently, but when the injured knee is allowed to slip around, it can tear other ligaments, wear away at the joints, and cause arthritis.

On top of that, fabric is mobile. Even a bit of subtle rubbing back and forth, all day, every day, is enough to wear out fur and skin, leaving rope-like burns and irritation at best.

Another problem with early dog knee braces is that they were often improperly sized.

Think about it. If you wanted to make a brace to support a dog's torn knee, what size would you make it?

Obviously, you'd need a few different sizes; some dogs are larger than others.

You can't even begin to use the same brace on a Mastiff that you would on a Chihuahua. The brace for one would be a full bodysuit on the other!

Of course, the people making braces early on didn't have the resources to custom-make every single brace they sold and would just do the best they could and make a few different sizes, often a small/medium/large set for small/medium/large breeds (for nine total braces.)

Even that's not enough, though. There are nearly 400 recognized dog breeds, and there's plenty of variation within breed.

In humans, with all our variation, there are 14 different sizes for knee braces. Imagine 14 different knee brace designs for every breed of dog there is. That's way more than a hobbyist and dog lover can produce.

Braces have changed over time through trial and error. Modern braces are more limited in design.

They don't have complex harnesses meant to hold the brace in place the way older fabric braces did (which also immobilized the hip and caused more mobility issues for dogs.)

They're also made out of harder plastic that is designed to do its job while not restricting other kinds of movement.

They're smaller, easier to put on, less prone to causing skin problems, and less likely to hamper mobility and lead to overcompensation.

Modern braces are made by taking measurements specifically for your dog and your dog alone. Small hobbyist shops and blogs couldn't do something like that, but modern medical companies certainly can.

Plus, the design of these braces was created by trained orthotists, people who work with bones and joints as their primary career, and who know exactly how those knees work and how they can go wrong.

Do Dog Knee Braces Work?

Yes, they do! Well, I should say most of the time. So, here's the thing.

When your dog's knee is injured, you need to take them to the vet so the vet can diagnose what the specific injury is.

Different injuries need to be treated in different ways. Sometimes, that means a brace, some pain relievers, limited mobility, or surgery; other times, it's somewhere in between. Your vet may find that your dog is just exhausted or picked up a thorn during a hike.

Many vets will go with a brace as often as possible because it's less invasive and much less expensive for pet parents.

Other vets prefer to go with surgery because it's a faster and more guaranteed solution to the problem. Often, though, the actual solution is a hybrid.

Surgery can help correct the issue, and a brace helps keep your dog from tearing the sutures or otherwise re-injuring themselves.

Don't get me wrong; surgery is still difficult!

Older dogs in particular can sometimes have trouble with anesthesia, and you may be hesitant to get them put under. A brace can still help in many cases, but it's not a guaranteed cure-all.

Depending on the severity of the injury, it's entirely possible that a brace alone won't be enough for complete healing.

There's also the risk of another knee injury to the other leg. Since one torn ACL imbalances your fur baby, they'll start to use their other leg for more of their mobility, putting more stress on it and eventually leading to it tearing as well.

If a dog tears one knee, it's very common for them to tear the other within a few years.

How to Prevent Dog Knee Injuries

Knee injuries can be very painful and can dramatically change your pup’s life forever.

When it comes to the well-being of our fur babies, I always like to quote Benjamin Franklin on prevention: "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

I believe the best way to take care of any injury is by taking measures to minimize the risk of occurrence.

There are a few basic preventative steps you can take to decrease your dog’s odds of suffering from knee injuries:

• Help your dog maintain an ideal weight.
• Enrich your dog’s diet with joint supporting supplements, like glucosamine, chondroitin, and omega 3 fatty acids.
• Especially with senior dogs, avoid high-impact activities while encouraging low-impact activities such as swimming

If your dog has a propensity to knee injuries, preventing them will be a tough challenge.

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However, sticking to the basic recommendations above will hopefully keep your pup out of the vet’s office and enjoying life more.

When your dog suffers from a knee injury, the treatment will depend on the severity. Your vet might recommend from physical therapy to surgery. If your pup is not a good candidate for surgery, a knee brace might help.

“For animals that are unable to undergo surgery, there are braces that can be custom made to externally stabilize the knee.” - Dr. Timothy Schwab - Metropolitan Veterinary Associates.

What Are the Most Common Knee Injuries in Dogs?

Cranial cruciate ligament rupture and patellar luxation are the two most common knee injuries that affect dogs. They both occur in the rear legs.

While both injuries will cause lameness in your dog, they are treated differently.

After learning about knee braces and their effectiveness, it is helpful to learn about the most common injuries that result in a vet recommendation for a knee brace.

Without getting too technical, here is a little background on the most common dog knee injuries.

Cranial Cruciate Ligament Rupture

Like a human’s anterior cruciate ligament (ACL), the cranial cruciate ligament in dogs holds the bones of the leg into place. The cranial cruciate ligament (CCL) is one of the most important stabilizers inside the knee joint.

Dog Leg Anatomy

What Causes Cranial Cruciate Ligament Rupture in Dogs?

The CCL can tear for many different reasons causing a lot of pain and discomfort. The rupture can occur as a sudden event or as a progressive degeneration over time.

A dog that suffers a rupture of the cranial cruciate ligament will find it hard to walk because when they put weight on it, the bones have nothing to keep them in place, and the knee will give out.

Cranial cruciate ligament ruptures can affect any dog regardless of age and size. However, obese and large-breed dogs show a higher propensity.

“Obese dogs appear to be more predisposed to developing a cruciate rupture. In these dogs, the injury may occur with minor trauma to the knee, such as stumbling over a rock while walking.” – VCA | Animal Hospitals

Additionally, some breeds are also known for showing higher incidence of occurrence. These breeds include Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, Rottweilers, and Pit Bulls amongst others.

Check out this educational video on common questions about cranial cruciate ligament injury by Dr. Britton Bradberry from Advanced Veterinary Care:

Common Questions About Cranial Cruciate Ligament Injury Video

Patellar Luxation

Luxating means out of place. Patella luxation occurs when a dog’s kneecap slides out of the crevice it sits in and out of place.

It’s basically the dog’s equivalent to a dislocated kneecap in humans.

Unlike cranial cruciate ligament rupture, dogs with this condition usually don’t show signs of pain.

The severity of this injury may range from a mild luxation, happening only during flexion, to permanent luxation involving muscles and tendons.

Luxating Patella in Dogs

Although most common in little dogs, large dogs can also suffer it.

Patellar luxation, is one of the most common orthopedic conditions in dogs, affecting about 7% of puppies and primarily small breeds.

Boston and Yorkshire terriers, Chihuahuas, Pomeranians, and miniature Poodles seem to show the highest propensity to this type of injury.

If you’ve noticed intermittent limping, sudden intermittent loss of support in the rear legs or perhaps an abnormal sitting position your dog may be suffering from a patellar luxation.

“They (dogs) may off-load the limb when standing, hold it off of the ground, or limp after exercise. Some animals have difficulty rising.” - Dr. Timothy Schwab - Metropolitan Veterinary Associates.

What to Do if Your Dog Injures Their Knee

If your fur baby played a little too hard, stumbled, got a leg caught, or otherwise had energy exceed their body's ability to keep them going, a damaged knee is a likely result. After all, it's a relatively fragile, very mobile joint that suffers a lot of impact and stress.

If your fur baby injures their knee, the first thing you need to do is take them to the vet.

Sometimes, all you're dealing with is a minor sprain, and they'll be right as rain again in as little as a few weeks with proper care.

Pain meds are also a good first step, but only for short-term use.

It's generally not a good idea to give a dog pain meds for more than a few weeks at a time; they can have side effects that include damage to the kidneys and liver, as well as other issues along the way.

For more long term management of pain, CBD tinctures have turned out to be very effective with very little to no side effects.

If you choose this route, we highly advise that you do thorough research before you make a purchase decision.

Our basic recommendation is to pick USDA certified organic hemp-based CBD tinctures extracted using the CO2 method and that come with a certificate of analysis.

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From there, the usual go-to for most injuries is going to be mobility restrictions and a brace.

The brace serves to immobilize the knee, preventing the bones from stressing other ligaments and muscles or wearing away at each other and causing arthritis. With rest, care, and proper use of a brace, most minor and moderate injuries can heal on their own.

Braces are also good for dogs that, for one reason or another, can't have surgery. There are many different reasons this might be, including age, kidney or heart issues, or other high-risk factors.

If your fur baby can't have surgery but suffers a severe enough injury, they may end up with limited mobility permanently. It's sad, but it's better than risking their life in a surgery they shouldn't have, right?

In younger, healthier dogs, and when the injury is severe, surgery is more likely to be necessary.

Luckily, modern medical science has made it a lot easier and less invasive to perform such a surgery, though the extent of the surgery will depend on the injury, the dog, the vet, and the available equipment.

One thing that you almost never have to worry about is euthanasia. It's extremely rare for an injury to be severe enough to hinder your furry friend's quality of life to such a great extent to make such an act a viable choice.

No, your fur baby will likely be able to wear a brace for a few weeks or a few months and be right as rain not long after.

Has your vet ever recommended your furry friend wear a knee brace? If so, what was your experience like? Did it work as well as you hoped it would, or did it make for any memorable stories? I'd love to hear all your thoughts and stories about your fur baby's knee brace experiences, so be sure to drop those down below!

Sometimes, that happens when your poor pup is struggling to stand, with shaking, weak, and quivering hind legs.

What's going on, and what can you do about it?

Today we’re going to dive into reasons why your dog’s back legs are weak and shaking. There are many possible causes, some benign and others more concerning, but we’ll discuss both in detail.

Is Weakness in Your Dog's Hind Legs Dangerous?

The truth is, it's impossible to tell without looking at the circumstances.

It can be frightening to see them struggle to stand, shake as they move, or limp as if their legs are sore.

Your instinct might be to rush them to the emergency vet, but is that the right call?

There are perfectly benign and non-harmful reasons why your dog's legs might be shaking.

On the other hand, it may also be a sign of something serious and might warrant an immediate trip to the vet.

Consider when the shaking or weakness occurs before getting seriously concerned. Is it something that only happens intermittently or is it more constant? Can you tie an event or activity to the shaking, or does it seem to come on out of the blue?

What Other Symptoms Accompany Weak Hind Legs?

Sometimes, your dog's legs shake, but not all of the time. And there may be other symptoms that indicate a problem you'll need to take care of rather than ignore.

Other symptoms may include:

• Indifference to exercise. If your dog suddenly doesn't seem to care about walks or playing, it may be cause for concern.
• A lack of coordination or balance, including stumbling and staggering into furniture.
• Limping, or an inability to walk for longer distances, or even support their own weight.
• Whining, barking, snapping, or other signs of distress if you touch their hindquarters.
• Loss of bladder or bowel control, which indicates something more than just muscle weakness.

In general, "back leg weakness" is a broad symptom of many possible issues, including something as simple as excitement.

That's why it's important to look for other signs of something wrong.

What Are Benign Reasons Your Dog's Hind Legs Shake?

First, let's get a few of the safer causes out of the way.

In many of these cases, hind leg weakness, shaking, or quivering is not a sign of concern. You’ll notice a common theme in these reasons – they are tied to an external factor that you’re likely able to identify.

The first is simply that you've had a long day of play and exercise. Think about it; if you go out on a hike and walk for miles up and down a mountain, your legs are going to be tired and might shake when you try to stand up.

The same goes for your pupper; they don't necessarily know when to quit, and they'll work their muscles to the point of exhaustion if they're having fun.

So, if your pup spent a full afternoon at the dog park going full speed playing with friends, it wouldn’t be surprising for their muscles to respond accordingly.

Another common cause is fear. Particularly in very small breeds, like Chihuahuas, the world can be a scary place full of loud noises and unexpected surprises.

Trembling and shaking are a fear response (in people, too!) and isn't immediately dangerous.

It does mean your pup is uncomfortable and afraid, though, so it can be worth trying to figure out why to see if you can reduce or eliminate the cause.

Excitement is similar.

When your pup is excited and happy, they'll want to express that energy. Tail wagging is only the beginning; they may be just as prone to trembling and shaking as they try to restrain themselves from jumping up and after whatever is making them so happy.

Another equally common reason is of course, cold.

If it's cold in your house, or if you've just come in from a winter walk, your furry friend is probably just chilled!

You'll want to give them some lukewarm water to drink (not hot water; their mouths are sensitive) and a blanket. If they're damp from rain or snow, dry them off first so they don't lose body heat to evaporation.

It’s also a good idea to be aware of when it’s too cold to walk your dog and opt for a quick in and out potty session instead.

In puppies, hind leg shaking might be a temporary side-effect of getting their vaccinations.

Just like your arm might be sore after the flu shot, your puppy might have sore muscles in their hind legs after shots to the rear. This generally resolves in a day or two.

Certain breeds, like Maltese, can develop "shaker syndrome" during early adulthood.

This is a nerve defect in the brain that causes shaking and tremors. It's also easily treatable with a few weeks of attention and some prednisone, but will require a vet visit to diagnose and treat.

Age is also a frequent contributor to hind leg tremors. As dogs get older, parts of their bodies start to wear out. Sometimes, that means their legs just don't work as well anymore and shake as their motor control deteriorates.

You'll want to talk to your vet to make sure there isn't an underlying reason for this, but sometimes there's nothing you can do but help them out when they need to move around.

What Are the Dangerous Causes of Back Leg Quivering?

First of we have general pain, which is a common cause of shaking.

Pain from an injury can lead to shaking as if their legs want to give out on them but aren't quite to that point yet.

This pain can come from an acute injury like a strain, sprain, break, or bruise. It can also come from more chronic conditions, like osteoarthritis, the deterioration of the bones and joints over time.

“Osteoarthritis is the most common form of arthritis in dogs and is a degenerative joint disorder that leads to a permanent deterioration of the cartilage that provides cushioning for the joints. This painful condition is estimated to affect about a quarter of all dogs throughout their lifetime.” – Sharon Lakes Animal Hospital

If your dog is younger and you don't think there is an injury, there might be a case of hip dysplasia at play.

Hip dysplasia is a hip joint that doesn't fit right, so it's prone to weakness, dislocation, and pain. It’s more commonly seen in larger dogs but can happen in any breed.

Dogs with hip dysplasia tend to rely more on their front legs, which leads to decreased muscle strength in the hind legs, further leading to weaker back legs and more shaking. Hip dysplasia can be addressed with surgery.

One of the main diseases that causes weak and shaking back legs is degenerative myelopathy. This disease, also known as DM, is a spinal disease inherited via genetics.

You can compare DM with Lou Gehrig’s disease (aka ALS) that’s seen in humans. DM is more common in some breeds, particularly German Shepherds, Collies, Huskies, Pugs, and Boxers, and it progresses as the dog gets older.

DM causes deterioration of the spinal cord, which leads to muscle wasting that progressively gets worse over time. It can be delayed through exercise and an ongoing healthy diet, but it unfortunately doesn't stop the disease.

Another common disease is intervertebral disc disease, or IVDD. IVDD is similar to what we people get in the form of a slipped or herniated disc.

The spine is a series of hollow bones, separated by gel-like cushions that keep them separate and safe.

As your dog ages, the composition of those cushions breaks down, and they can slip out of place. Not only is this painful on its own, but it can also cause vertebra to rub against one another painfully and causes nerve damage.

While it can happen to any dog, IVDD is more common in certain breeds, namely Dachshunds, Beagles, Shih Tzus, Cocker Spaniels, and Pekingese.

IVDD is treatable, though options will depend on the severity of the disease. Cases caught early will likely be treated with medication and movement restrictions.

Surgery will likely be recommended in more progressed cases. If left untreated, it can lead to paralysis.

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Similarly, Addison's Disease also called hypoadrenocorticism, can also cause hind leg quivering. It's a hormone condition where your dog's glands aren't producing cortisol or aldosterone, leading to imbalances with kidneys and other issues.

This is a problem with the adrenal glands, and while it can be managed, it can be difficult to diagnose.

“The condition (Addison’s disease) may be inherited in Standard Poodles, West Highland White Terriers, Great Danes, Bearded Collies, Portuguese Water Dogs, and a variety of other breeds. Although the disease can be seen in any breed, sex, or age, it is most common in young, female, adult dogs.” – Merck Veterinary Manual

There are other causes as well, though this is not meant to be an all-inclusive list:

• Diabetes
• A bad diet
• Snake bites
• Torn ACL
• Dislocated kneecaps
• Broken bones
• Seizures
• Cancers
• Cushing's Disease
• Toxicity from certain medications
• Electrolyte imbalances
• Poisoning from eating something toxic, like chocolate, pesticides, cleaners, toothpaste, and some houseplants.

The sheer variety of causes of weak, shaking, or quivering back legs is why it's generally a good idea to call your vet and bring your pup in for an examination.

The bottom line is pretty much any cause of weakness and shaking legs (other than exhaustion, cold, or fear) is something you want to get treated right away.

What Can You Do if Your Dog Has Weak Hind Legs?

If your dog has weakness, shaking, and quivering hind legs, there are some things you can do to help.

The first thing is check for some of the more common benign causes. If your pup pal is scared, cold, or tired, all you need to do is comfort them, warm them up, and let them rest.

There's no need to call a vet or otherwise pursue advanced treatment when all you really need is a blanket and some time, right?

If you’ve discarded any benign reason and suspect something else is going on, you'll want to call your vet.

They can walk you through a few signs to watch for to determine whether or not you should schedule a regular appointment or bring them in for an emergency examination. Acute pain and abrupt-onset symptoms might necessitate an emergency visit, for example.

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You may also need to work on their diet. Picking the right food (free from fillers and made from healthy ingredients) is important. So, too, are supplements.

There are a variety of supplements you can try, including glucosamine, MSM, and hyaluronic acid. If pain is an issue, you might even consider trying CBD for dogs.

Exercise (and an appropriate amount of rest) can be an important part of a treatment plan. Many causes of weak and shaking back legs are forms of muscle weakness, and exercise can help strengthen those legs and help reduce tremors.

Check out what Dr. Sarah Woten, DVM recommends for exercising a dog with hip dysplasia:

If the cause of the issue is something like arthritis or an injury, exercise may do more damage than good, so it's important to understand why your fur baby is shaking first.

Depending on the cause of the issue, your vet might recommend a variety of different treatment options.

These can range from shots of steroids, medication like anti-inflammatories, or physiotherapy, all the way to surgery.

In the case of degenerative diseases, there may not be much you can do, especially for an older dog. Just try to make them comfortable, assist them with mobility, and invest in mobility assistance devices.

What Are Mobility Assistance Devices?

Mobility assistance devices are tools you can use to help your dog get around when their legs are weak.

An easy option is a bed ramp or a small set of stairs, so your pup can get up to higher places they like to settle, like your couch or your bed. Since they can't use those weak hind legs to jump, they need the help.

Another option is a harness with a handle. This gives you an easy way to help your dog stand up and move around when they need to, and they come in sizes appropriate for any breed.

If your vet suspects that your dog will eventually lose all control over their back legs, you might want to get a doggy wheelchair.

A canine wheelchair is a set of wheels that can attach to their hind legs in a way that keeps their back straight and gives them more freedom of movement with just their front legs.

Of course, they won't be able to jump, but they'll be a lot more capable of running around. There are also "drag bags" that can protect their hind legs and stomach from scraping the ground when they aren't in their chairs.

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Tell Us Your Tail

Have you had a dog that had hind legs that shake, tremor, or give out on them? It's distressing, but maybe your story can help others recognize symptoms in their own fur babies before something bad gets worse. Tell us your story and help each other out!

Remember, shaking hind legs can be perfectly benign. When an underlying condition is the culprit, many have treatment options.

Many dogs live for years with limited mobility or with shaking legs and are still perfectly happy to just be with you and the rest of their family.

When in doubt, it's always best to be safe rather than sorry, so if you are ever hesitant about what to do, consulting with your vet is never a bad option.

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In it, she's holding her sweet fur baby, and she says,

"I've only had Arlo for a day and a half, but if anything happened to him, I would kill everyone in this room and then myself."

Now, this is an over-the-top comedic reaction, but really, we all love our puppies, and we'd do just about anything to see them kept safe.

One of the many things we can do for our newborn pups is to get them vaccinated against the awful diseases that can make their lives bad or even end them prematurely.

The question is, how many vaccinations are there, and how many do puppies need? Let's dig in.

Why Does My Puppy Need Vaccines to Begin With?

Puppies just like human babies are vulnerable to disease. Upon birth, they receive very potent antibodies that provide protection against ubiquitous, devastating, and life-threatening diseases, such as rabies and distemper.

Unfortunately, these maternal antibodies start to wear off at around 9-16 weeks of age. At that point puppies become very vulnerable to disease. Vaccines are the most effective way to provide your puppy with good health, longevity, and a good quality of life.

This is not to say or imply that vaccines are 100% risk free. Not at all.

Check out this 4-minute video by Dr. Clayton Greenway from Health care for pets about Vaccine Reactions in Dogs and Cat

Everything you need to know about vaccine reactions for dogs and cats

However, a very important consideration is that the benefits of vaccinating your puppy outweigh the risks.

To put things in perspective, here's a quote from the American Animal Hospital Association regarding dog vaccines.

“Vaccinations not only protect pets, but also play a role in protecting humans. Approximately 59,000 people worldwide die each year from rabies, according to the World Health Organization, but only one or two deaths occur in the US, where laws require pets to be vaccinated…Widespread vaccination means that few pets get rabies and few humans are exposed.” - American Animal Hospital Association

What Are Core Vs. Non-Core Vaccinations for Puppies?

Before getting too deep, one thing you might find helpful to know is the difference between core and non-core vaccinations.

Core vaccinations are vaccines given to every puppy, barring exceptional circumstances.

These are given because the diseases they protect against are common, ubiquitous, and usually deadly, but the good news is, they are also preventable.

There are zero reasons not to give them and every reason to do so, so they're recommended for every single puppy.

Non-core vaccinations are "optional" vaccinations. They're still usually a good idea to get, but you might not need to get all of them.

For example, a vaccination against Lyme exists, but if you don't live in an area where Lyme is common and you don't intend to travel to such a location with your pup, you may opt to forego the vaccine.

It doesn't hurt to give it to them anyway, but you aren't required to do so.

What Are the Core Vaccinations for Puppies?

Now that we know there are two groups of vaccines, you’re probably wondering which ones are core. The good news is, there aren’t many, but we’ll talk about each one.

DHP – This is a combined vaccination that covers three different diseases. They are Distemper, Hepatitis/Adenovirus, and Parvovirus.

Rabies – As the name suggests, this is the vaccine against rabies. Since rabies has no real cure (or rather, science is still working on finding one, and while there are a few promising studies, nothing is in production yet), the vaccine is critical.

“Rabies is a virus that is transmitted through the saliva of an infected animal. Rabies attacks the brain and central nervous system of infected animal. Once symptoms appear, the virus is almost always fatal. Dogs are the most common animal that spreads the rabies virus to humans.”- Rebecca F. Wish | Michigan State University

That's it! If you live in an area where Lyme disease is common, the Lyme vaccine might be considered core for you, and if you plan to have social dogs or bring your dog to shows, other vaccinations may be considered core, but for the most part, everything else is non-core.

What Are the Non-Core Vaccinations for Puppies?

There are quite a few additional vaccinations you can give your puppy. It's usually a good idea to talk to your vet and ask them which vaccinations they recommend.

Non-core vaccinations include:

• Parainfluenza, which is a form of the flu. Depending on what vaccine combo your vet uses, this could be combined with the DHP vaccine mentioned above, but this additional protection is called the DHPP vaccine.
• Leptospirosis, which is a common bacteria found in soil and water. The disease can be mild or fatal, with little rhyme or reason as to which, but since it's easy to vaccinate against, it's a common vaccine for puppies.
• Bordetella, which is an upper respiratory infection not too dissimilar from COVID. It's also commonly known as "kennel cough" because it spreads in kennels, doggy daycares, and other areas where many dogs socialize with one another.
• Canine Influenza, which is another version of the flu. The flu is extremely common in humans and many animals, and there are thousands of variants, but the canine vaccine handles two of the most common and dangerous varieties. You will likely need annual boosters for your fur baby to keep them safe, just like you should get your own flu shots every year too.
• Lyme. As mentioned above, Lyme may or may not be an issue in your area. If it is, it's a good idea to get the vaccine for your furry friend.
• Giardia. Giardia is a parasite that can cause intestinal problems in dogs and can be devastating if it isn't caught early. Luckily, there's a vaccine against even this parasite, which can be given to your puppy any time after they're 8 weeks old. Unfortunately, the vaccine only lasts for about six months, so regular boosters are a must to keep up that protection.
• Coronavirus. Yup, the coronavirus in general wasn’t a new thing in 2020. "Coronavirus" is actually a very broad category with dozens of different primary types and uncountable subspecies and mutations. The version of the coronavirus that dogs commonly get is not the same as the one people get. This coronavirus vaccine only protects against canine coronavirus or CCoV.
• Rattlesnake. No, you can't vaccinate your dog against snakes in general. What you can do is vaccinate them against the toxic effects of rattlesnake venom in case they happen to get bitten by a snake. For obvious reasons, this isn't required in areas where rattlesnakes aren't common.

Most of these vaccines are shots, though the Bordetella vaccine can be given orally or nasally. Many of them also require periodic boosters, either annually or whenever you're going to travel.

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How Many Shots Does Your Puppy Need?

This one is tricky to answer because it depends on the variant of the vaccines being given.

For example, if you're getting a DHP vaccine and a Parainfluenza vaccine, they might be two separate shots, or they might be combined into one (known as DHPP). There's also a five-course shot that includes Leptospirosis called DHLPP.

At the same time, many of these vaccines are two-shot courses, or more, similar to how our COVID vaccine was two shots with boosters.

At the bare minimum, your puppy might need five or six shots to get the full initial course of the DHP and Rabies vaccines.

A full course of all of the vaccines might be more like 12-14 shots over the course of the first year or two of your puppy's life. After that, they'll still need boosters, but only every couple of years.

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What Does a Puppy Vaccination Schedule Look Like?

A puppy vaccination schedule starts when your fur baby is around 6-8 weeks old. At this age, they're young, sensitive, and potentially exposed to many diseases.

They're also starting to socialize, run around, and get into things, which puts them at high risk.

Here's what a vaccination schedule might look like.

• 6-8 weeks old: your puppy will get their first vaccinations, along with a checkup and any other medications your vet might recommend. This appointment will generally include the first shot of the DHP or DHPP vaccine, along with the Bordetella and Lyme vaccines if necessary.
• 10-14 weeks old: your puppy will be back for a checkup and to make sure everything is going fine with them. They'll get their second shots for DHP/DHPP, Bordetella, and Lyme. If your vet recommends it, this is also the time when they'll get their first shot of the Leptospirosis (Lepto) vaccine as well.
• 16-20 weeks old: your puppy comes in for another checkup. If all goes well, this is when they'll get their final course of DHP/DHPP, Bordetella, and Lyme. They'll get their second shot of Lepto if they got the first, and they'll get their first shot of the Rabies vaccine if your state laws recommend it that early.

From here, it all depends on your vet and your vaccination schedule. Rabies vaccines, for example, will need a second shot around one year old, and boosters every 1-3 years after that to keep up the protection.

Some vets are starting to recommend adding another shot of DHP/DHPP at 18 months to refresh coverage as well.

So, for something like DHPP, your pup might get shots at 7 weeks, 11 weeks, 15 weeks, 19 weeks, 1 year, and every three years after that to make sure coverage keeps up.

Again, some of these vaccinations are required, and some are not, and it may depend on your circumstances. Don’t worry, your vet will guide you through the process.

Is It Illegal to Not Vaccinate a Puppy?

If we set aside the question of why you might want to avoid vaccinations (there's no good reason to avoid them unless your puppy is immunocompromised in the first place; not vaccinating them puts them in danger that can be avoided or prevented entirely), some people might be curious what the legality is of the vaccination system.

The answer is yes; it's generally illegal to skip vaccinations, at least the DHP and Rabies vaccinations in most states. Other vaccinations – the non-core vaccinations – may be mandated by laws in some areas but are not generally mandated across the country.

There's no firm answer to this question because it's down to state law to determine what vaccinations are required at what ages.

You'll need to check with your vet and with your state laws to determine what the vaccination list should be unless you plan to be safe and give your puppy every vaccination they can get, so they're as protected as possible.

For example, this map contains a list of the applicable laws for the rabies vaccination in every state. Check it to see what your state has to say about the issue (at least, as of the last time that site was updated), and double-check with your vet to make sure.

How Can You Track What Vaccines Your Puppy Has Been Given?

If you're concerned about the number and frequency of vaccinations, you don't have to be. For one thing, when you get vaccines from your vet, you will also be given paperwork to keep and records of their vaccinations.

Now, sure, you might not want to keep that paperwork on hand at all times, but that's fine, too; your vet will have records of your puppy's vaccinations, both physically and electronically.

The only risk you might encounter is if your vet closes, and even then, records are generally transferable.

Are Puppy Vaccinations Expensive?

Luckily, no. Everyone wants what's best for their puppy and for all puppies everywhere, and that means vaccinations generally aren't too expensive.

Especially not when compared to the vet bills of treating a dog that catches a preventable illness!

A full course of the core vaccinations will usually run about $100-$200, depending on where you live and what your vet charges.

Full courses of every vaccine you can possibly give to your puppy are going to be more expensive, of course, but even then, it's still pretty reasonable.

There might also be local ways you can get vaccinations at a discount or even free if there are community organizations or other aid groups that can help you out.

Check out your local animal shelter as they often provide these services at a lower rate than your vet. Just be sure to give a copy of the vaccinations to your vet so your records are all in one place.

Can You Vaccinate Against Worms, Fleas, or Other Parasites?

Unfortunately, no. There aren't any long-lasting or permanent treatments available for things like heartworms, tapeworms, ticks or fleas.

This is because any existing medications that deal with these infections are chemical in nature – that is, they enter your dog's system, do their work, and are metabolized out.

They don't interface with your fur baby's immune system and can't provide permanent protection.

That's not to say there won't be a vaccine in the future. Medical technology is always improving, and the development of mRNA vaccines like the COVID vaccine in humans helps push technology forward.

It's entirely possible that new vaccines will be developed in the coming years that can protect against even more problems. In the meantime, you’ll have to stick with oral or topical preventatives.

Do You Have Other Questions?

If you have any questions about vaccinations or really anything else about your puppy (or kitty), feel free to ask! I love fur babies of all kinds, and I'm always around to help out in any way I can.

I also love hearing your stories, so even if all you want to do is share a fun tale of your fuzzy tails, go right ahead.

We like to call it puppy kisses, but is that really accurate?

Our fur babies love to lick us when they're having fun or when they miss us, but the jury is still out on what the licks actually mean.

You may be wondering, is excessive licking a problem? The key word here is excessive, and the answer is yes. Pretty much anything in excess is going to be a problem, and licking is one of those things.

Let’s get started.

The Many Causes of Excessive Licking in Dogs

If your fur baby is licking you excessively, you'll probably be tired of it.

If they're licking an object excessively, they can wear a hole in the carpet, wear paint off the walls, or leave marks on the furniture.

If they're licking themselves too much, they can wear away at the fur and leave red, raw, irritated patches on their skin. That's when you know you have a problem on your hands.

“Dogs use body language and gestures such as licking to convey information about their feelings and intent.” - Ruth Hegarty, M.S.E.

Some people theorize that dogs lick us just because we taste good to them, from the natural oils, salt, and other stuff that builds up on our skin. Of course, plenty of folks believe licking is just a sign of affection.

The trouble is, there's a difference between a few slurps when you've finished a meal and forgotten a few crumbs or when you've come back from the gym and are covered in delicious salty sweat.

When your fur baby is licking excessively – at you, at themselves, or at an object – it may be a sign that something's wrong.

Our job as a pet parent is to identify the cause of the excessive licking so we can help correct the underlying issue. We’ll start by looking at some of the most common causes of excess licking and then talk about how to address the underlying issue.

1. Boredom

Some dogs get bored easily and will seek out pretty much any kind of stimulation they can find to alleviate that boredom and the frustration that comes along with it.

Often, it starts with licking anything and everything, just to explore the world around them with new senses.

Eventually, it can lead to obsessively licking the same object or spot on the carpet over and over.

That place you spilled spaghetti five years ago? You may not remember, but the carpet does, and it's better than nothing to a bored pop.

2. Anxiety

Anxious pups can exhibit all sorts of behaviors. Licking is often a soothing behavior for puppies, and when your furry friend is anxious, they may turn to those behaviors to try to alleviate it.

This is more often self-grooming (which can lead to painful hot spots) or licking you, depending on the dog.

To help identify anxiety as the cause, try to observe when the licking behavior occurs. Is it during a thunderstorm? Or perhaps when their favorite person leaves the house?

3. Thirst

Have you ever had a dry mouth? When your tongue feels sticky, and your cheeks are rough, and you'd do anything to get a bit of water?

A thirsty dog can feel the same way. Licking helps stimulate the salivary glands to produce a little moisture, and when they're thirsty enough, even that little bit can be blessed relief.

4. Pain

Dogs don't have hands, don't have access to pain meds, and don't have enough of a language to be able to talk about when something hurts.

They just do the best they can to let you know if something is wrong, and they soothe it in any way they can. Often, that means licking.

Licking, when caused by pain, unfortunately, tends to result in more pain if they end up with a hot spot.

Internal pains leading to licking can leave your fur baby patchy and sore. Pain after a surgery leads to licking, too – hence the cone of shame – and even tooth pain can cause licking as your poor pup does anything they can to distract themselves.

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5. Nausea or GI Issues

If you've ever been sick enough to feel like you're about to vomit but can't quite get there, you know how it messes with your entire system.

You salivate a lot, you swallow or spit, and you do whatever you can to alleviate that upset stomach.

Your fur baby is the same way; if their stomach or their digestive system is upset, they'll seek oral stimulation to try to alleviate it, usually via licking.

This is often accompanied by excessive drooling, too, though it can be hard to tell with certain breeds.

6. Allergies and Itchiness

Itching and scratching is another common reason for excessive licking.

It's pretty much just the same as when you have an itchy spot from a bug bite or a rash. You want to scratch it or rub it to alleviate the itch, though you try to hold off, knowing you'll only make it worse.

With dogs, itching can come from small scrapes and scratches, bug bites, parasites like fleas, ticks, or worms, or even allergies.

Dog allergies can be especially difficult to diagnose and control. Often, your first sign of them is excessive nibbling and/or licking of an area that has been exposed.

7. Infections

Infections, just like wounds and bug bites, often result in both pain and itching, which results in licking to try to alleviate them.

An infection is usually easier to spot, at least. Be sure to keep an eye (and a nose) out for unusual smells that can indicate something else is going on, too.

8. Cognitive Problems

Older dogs can experience a variety of issues as they age, and their brains get old and tired.

Sometimes they start to bark at nothing, sometimes, they forget their tricks or their training, and sometimes they just fixate on something and start licking it.

They may not realize how long they've been licking or remember why they're licking; they just know they enjoy the behavior and they'll keep doing it.

10. Inadvertent Training

When you come home from a long day of work and your pup, happy to see you, hops up on your lap and gives you some licks on the face, what do you do?

If you laugh, you pet them, you praise them, and you give them a treat, guess what? You've just used positive reinforcement to encourage the behaviors that got them rewarded.

They don't realize you're just as happy to see them as they are to see you; they just know that their licking got them treats and praise.

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• [Guide] How to Stimulate Appetite in Sick Dogs and Puppies
• Tips: How to Stop Dog Aggression Against Other Dogs
• [Guide] 12 Tips for Soothing Your Dog's Upset Stomach Issues
• How to Control and Calm Down a Hyperactive Dog

This is one of the more common causes of excessive licking. It's also easy to handle if you can work on training in the other direction, but it may take some time.

Check out this short educational video on how to train your dog to stop licking you.

How to teach your dog to stop licking you | 3:40 min video

How to Deal with Excessive Licking

As we’ve said, if your fur baby is licking a lot, like, a lot, a lot, it's probably a problem. How you deal with the problem depends on why they're licking.

First, you'll probably want to consult with your vet. Many of the reasons why dogs lick excessively, especially on themselves, are related to pain or illness.

You may want to closely monitor your dog and keep a mental or written journal on a few things before you contact your vet.

• When did the excessive licking start?
• When does it seem to happen?
• For how long does your pup excessively lick?
• Does your dog seem to be easily distracted/stopped from the behavior?
• If yes for the above question, does your dog go right back to it?
• For pet parents that have indoor cameras, does your dog engage in this behavior when no one else is around or does s/he do it just in front of others?
• Have there been any changes in your dog’s environment? Perhaps there is a new member of the family? Or somebody visiting? Or perhaps you recently moved your furniture around? Or maybe there are new noises coming from outside?

Armed with these important information, and anything else you may have observed, your vet will be able to help diagnose what's wrong and can offer you treatment options.

These treatments can be as simple as anti-parasitic medications to get rid of ringworm, a flea treatment to get rid of fleas, or antibiotics to help handle an infection.

In other cases, it may mean you need to have a few teeth pulled, or you may need to have them wear a cone (or an alternative) to prevent them from licking at or worrying at a wound, surgical site, or irritated patch of skin.

Remember, licking from let’s say boredom can lead to a physical issue such as a hot spot. Continued licking is just going to make the problem worse.

When you begin medical or behavioral treatment, you’ll also want to prevent your pup from continuing to lick at the irritated area.

In more extreme cases, your pup's excessive licking might be the first sign of something worse going on under their fur coat.

These issues can range from digestive problems stemming from eating something they shouldn't have, to issues with foods, internal damage or pain, a broken or inflamed joint or limb, or even something like an irritating lump.

Your vet will be able to diagnose these issues and can guide you through the next steps, where relevant.

Here are some things you can do to reduce/manage the incidence of excessive licking.

• You might also need to get in the habit of brushing your pup's teeth. Polishing up those canine canines (get it?) can help stave off tooth decay and mouth issues, which is an important part of their overall health.
• In the case of something like allergies, you'll need to figure out what your pup is allergic to. If it's food or a treat, you'll need to switch it out for something they can handle. If it's environmental, you'll need to figure out what. Are you using a cleaning product that irritates them? Is it pollen season, and some plant they brush up against is getting them? Once you find out what it is, you can help remove it from your routine. I personally know some pups that have been prescribed allergy meds because some irritants you just can’t avoid.
• For those older pups with declining cognition, well, there's not a lot that can be done. It's a sign of things to come and a sad one, so if you don't already have preparations in place, you'll want to get started. Just do your best to tolerate declining training and behavior, and make them comfortable for as long as you can before they pass over the rainbow bridge.

What about other cases? There are plenty of reasons why your fur baby might be licking that don't stem from an easily vet-treatable problem.

In these cases, you generally need to do two things: redirect the behavior and work on training.

Redirecting dog behavior means watching for when they're spending a lot of time licking at something and then distracting them with something else.

It can be a complex toy with a treat inside, it could be a rousing game of fetch with a ball, or it could be working on training a new trick. After all, your fur baby won't be licking if they're too busy catching a ball or learning how to high-five.

Training simply means positive reinforcement of non-licking behaviors. We've written about training before, in the context of nail trimming or recall training, and the concept holds true for lick training too.

As a last resource, you can also consider anti-lick tools if your fur baby is licking themselves or an object they shouldn't be.

• Anti-lick strips are small strips or bandage alternatives that are unpleasant to lick. Some of them use static electricity to tingle the tongue, while others use cayenne to make it a bit of a spicy taste, deterring the behavior. Unless your fur baby loves the hot sauce, but most don't.
• Anti-lick sprays generally use a bittering agent to make a surface extremely bitter and disgusting to taste. These are best used on objects, so if your fur baby is licking at the carpet, furniture, walls, or ceiling, bust out the spray to convince them it's not really as tasty as they think it is.

If your pup has licked an area of skin raw, and your vet has ruled out health issues, it’s time to get into intense observation mode and close surveillance to see if you can identify a pattern of when the licking behavior occurs.

If you think situational or separation anxiety are at play, consider some natural options like CBD for dogs. You can also consider some aromatherapy options, compression jackets, or in extreme cases you can talk to your vet about prescription options.

We mentioned about thirst being a potential cause of excessive licking. Be sure your pup always has fresh water to rule this issue out. Also be sure to bring water on hikes or hot days at the doggy park.

One thing to avoid at all cost though, is punishment or negative reinforcement. As you likely well know already, punishment doesn't work, and aversive behaviors get much harder to effectively train away.

Plus, if you misdiagnosed the problem, you end up punishing your pup for itching or pain that isn't their fault, and that just makes everything worse.

Tell Me About Your Pup

Do you have a dog that has a licking problem or had one in the past? What did it turn out to be, and how did you handle it?

I'm always interested in new solutions (including things I can add to my store if they're effective and natural), and of course, I always love hearing about your adorable furry children.

Additionally, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

As always, if you found this content useful, all blog posts on toe beans are social media shareable. So, what are you waiting for to spread the love? Go ahead and hit any social media icon of your preference around the post for instant sharing with friends and family. Sharing is caring!

A very important question pet parents usually have about essential oils for pets is, are essential oils safe for your dog? or, if used topically, are essential oils safe for your dog's hair?

After all, it doesn't matter how nice your pup smells if they're suffering because of it, right?

In this post I go an inch wide and a mile deep into essential oils for dogs and cats. From essential oils safety to what essential oils are not safe for your dog to how to safely use essential oils at home.

I have also included a great video where Dr. Allison Fields discusses using essential oil diffusers around your pets. This is a must watch!

Looking for more dog care guides? No problem, you can either scroll down all the way to the further reading section or visit my blog. Spoiler alert, it is packed with resources.

Let's dig into the safety of essential oils and how they may affect and benefit your pup.

What Are Essential Oils?

Just in case you’re not quite sure what essential oils are, I figured I'd give you a quick rundown.

Many plants have chemicals in them that give them their unique scents. It's the same whether you're talking about an edible herb like Basil or an inedible plant like Sandalwood.

The essential oil is drawn out of the plant using various extraction methods, the most common being through solvent extraction, steaming, maceration, and cold-press extraction. What you're left with is an extremely potent, extremely concentrated essence of the plant itself.

Essential oils are considered "pure" when they're not diluted by a carrier oil. These oils are extremely potent – so much so that a single drop can scent your entire house for hours or even days, depending on how you use it.

Essential oils are also used as an ingredient in numerous natural products. You might find them diluted down with a neutral carrier oil to be used in a diffuser.

Or, a drop or two might be used to add scent to a bar of soap or another household good. They are a great alternative to synthetically created fragrances.

It's worth noting that – as we always like to point out about anything you buy for your fur baby - not all essential oils are created equal. You'll notice that for example if you search for a specific essential oil, you’ll find a broad spectrum of pricing.

While a higher cost doesn’t always mean better quality, choosing the cheapest option is going to give you what you paid for – a sub-par product. It’s a balancing act.

The quality of the original plant and the extraction process all play a role in the end product. Many plants are grown using pesticides and fungicides, which may end up in the final product.

In addition, some extraction processes use hexane (which comes from refining crude oil) to extract the oils from plants. This process will leave some hexane in the final essential oil bottle.

If you’re considering purchasing an essential oil for your own personal use or for your fur baby, the minimum requirement you should seek is a USDA Certified Organic product.

While the quality of the plant may still vary, you can ensure it wasn’t grown using any harmful synthetics and neither was the extraction process.

Are Essential Oils Safe for Fur, Skin, or in General?

In general, essential oils are "safe, but." They're of course natural, but that alone doesn't mean something is safe. As I like to repeatedly emphasize on my blog, “natural” should NEVER be a proxy for safe.

Not for you, let alone for your fur baby. After all, wolfsbane, poison ivy, and rattlesnake venom are all natural, but you obviously wouldn't want to rub them on your skin.

For starters, essential oils are usually not safe to eat. Some, made from edible plants, may be ingestible in small amounts, diluted, and used as an ingredient. Others are simply toxic, or caustic enough to burn skin and stomach lining.

Typically, you don't eat essential oils, instead you either put them in an aromatherapy diffuser or use them as a scent ingredient.

Using essential oils as a scent ingredient in topical products is the safest and most practical way to use essential oils with your pets. Never apply pure undiluted essential oils directly on your or your dog's skin.

"Applying oils topically can be irritating to the skin — yours and your dog’s. This is counterproductive for treating skin conditions and can add to your dog’s discomfort. Therefore, without proper professional guidance, it’s best to avoid using essential oils topically or directly on your dog. Instead, look for expertly formulated products that incorporate dog-safe essential oils. - American Kennel Club

The trouble with discussing essential oils is that they're as widely varied as the plants they're made from. It's impossible to simply declare them all safe, or all dangerous, because you (and your fur baby) will react differently to different plants. It’s simply not a binary scenario.

When it comes to your fur baby, essential oils can be safe if they're properly diluted or used as an ingredient in another product. The most important keyword here is “properly.”

Here is the ASPCA position on whether or not essential oils are safe for pets:

"The answer, as we so often see, is slightly more complicated than a simple “yes,” or “no.”...In their concentrated form (100%), essential oils can absolutely be a danger for pets...Some oils may in fact be more harmful than others. However, there are several factors that affect this such as concentration level, and what the product is mixed with. For example, concentrated forms of tea tree oil (melaleuca oil) may cause issues for your pets with only seven or eight drops, whereas another oil may take more or less. Due to the variability in concentration, formulation and possible quality of essential oils, it is best to completely avoid directly applying them to your pet. You should also keep any oils up and out of paws' reach to prevent potential ingestion." - The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals^® (ASPCA^®)

Essential oils won't harm your dog's skin or fur, as long as they aren't just slathered on. A deodorizing spritz, for example, with a dog-safe and properly diluted amount of essential oils can be enough to be therapeutic without risking irritating skin or overwhelming your fur baby.

Needless to say, deodorizing spritzes that contain natural fragrances such as essential oils make for a much safer and better choice than those using artificial fragrances made from harsh chemicals.

Read Further

• 5 Alternatives to Dog Shampoo that You Can Use to Wash Your Pup
• Why Dogs Get Smelly
• Buy Dog and Cat Books – A great read for the entire family
• How to Bathe and Groom your Dog Like a Professional

Are Essential Oils Risky for Pets?

Essential oils have the potential to harm pets if two conditions are met.

• Too much oil is used at once.
• It's an oil that is toxic to your fur baby.

Too much of any essential oil will be irritating, though only certain essential oils are actually toxic. You should never apply pure essential oil to your fur baby.

Not only will it be way too strong for their extremely sensitive sense of smell, but it can also irritate their digestive system if ingested via self-grooming. And, of course, if you've happened to pick a toxic oil, that's bad no matter what.

Just like there are certain plants that are toxic to your dogs and cats, there are also some essential oils that are toxic too. After all, they are derived from plants.

Luckily, most pet-focused products (mine included) are perfectly safe for your furry friend. There's only a tiny amount in any given product – we don't sell pure essential oils – and we only use scents that are safe for dogs and in some cases our products are also safe for cats.

Cat safe products are clearly labeled as such; they have more sensitivities to essential oils, so don’t use a dog safe product on your kitty.

However, if you're using aromatherapy with oils you buy for yourself, you should be careful about which ones you use when your fur baby is around or eliminate the dangerous scents altogether.

Read Further

• 5 Tips for Removing Matted Hair from Your Fur Baby
• Is Dry Shampoo Safe for Dogs? 5 Things to Avoid
• Hot Spots on Dogs: Causes, Symptoms, and Remedies
• Expert Advice: How Often Should You Bathe a Puppy?

Which Essential Oils Can Be Dangerous to Dogs?

If you're interested in using essential oils around the house, or even as a treatment for your fur baby's medical issues, you'll need to make sure you aren't applying human standards to your pet.

Some smell great to us but some essential oils are toxic to dogs. This is a tough subject to broach, as there aren’t many studies to support which oils are safe versus which are toxic.

Most documented cases of death due to essential oils is from direct application or consumption of an undiluted oil. If the essential oil had been properly diluted it could have been safely applied. So, in this case is the oil safe or toxic?

The previous example is why you’ll find so much contradictory information on the internet. One site will list the essential oil as safe where another will say it’s toxic. It’s frustrating, I know.

Instead of relying on the wide variety of opinions scattered on the internet, we follow the guidance of a team of veterinarians who specialize in therapeutic essential oil use for pets.

Their list provides a small number of oils that should NOT be used with dogs. They include:

• Birch
• Tea Tree (Melaleuca)
• Wintergreen

There is also a group of “hot oils” that should be used cautiously (read must be highly diluted), some examples include cinnamon, clove, and oregano.

Cats are even more sensitive to essential oils as they lack a liver enzyme to break them down. So, in addition to the should NOT be used list above, you can also add all citrus oils, peppermint, and spearmint.

Read Further

• 12 Tips to Keep Your House Free of Dog and Cat Hair
• Poodle Grooming Tips: How to Brush and Comb Your Poodle's Hair
• Methods to Safely Untangle and Brush out Matted Dog Hair

Can You Use Essential Oils as an Ingredient?

There are uses for essential oils other than as aromatherapy scents. In fact, one of the most common uses is as an ingredient in topical products, such as in a lotion or spray. That’s how we use them.

So, can you safely use essential oils as an ingredient in these types of products? Or, to be more precise, if you buy a product with essential oils as an ingredient, is it safe?

The answer to this is generally yes, though with caveats.

If you buy a product like my Momma Knows Best organic paw balms, you might notice that essential oils are listed as ingredients. Is this bad?

Well, of course not. I wouldn't sell it if it had even the slightest chance of harming your precious friend. I use the vegan paw balm to keep my Sosa’s (18 yo) toe beans hydrated and looking great.

As you may imagine, we are unable to speak for the quality and safety practices used by other pet product manufacturers that use essential oils in their products.

What we can do however, is disclose what we do to make our products 100% safe for your dogs and for some products cats even if they are consumed via self-grooming.

Here's what makes our products safe to use on your dogs and cats:

• Very little of the product is necessary. For items like paw balms or deodorizing spritzes, you only need to apply a very small amount of the product every time.
• We use a safe amount in every product. For example, we properly dilute all essential oils to ensure they are safe for small dogs (and cats where applicable). All our products that contain essential oils have been diluted based on the dilution rate for small dogs.
• We only use scents that are safe for dogs. Frankincense, for example, is known to be safe for pets, which is why I use it instead of something like Peppermint.
• We only use USDA certified organic essential oils. The essential oils present in our products are USDA certified organic. This guarantees that no pesticides, synthetics, harsh chemicals, or heavy metals will make it into your fur baby’s organs.

Generally speaking, most essential oils are going to be safe, of course and once again, when used properly. One thing we recommend to pet parents is to be careful with the use of diffusers around pets.

Using essential oils with diffusers is very different from using them as ingredients in other products. If you use essential oils in infusers for medical reasons, make sure to keep your pets out of the room while the oil is being infused.

"Active oil diffusers, including nebulizers and ultrasonics, should be used away from pets so the microdroplets don’t come in contact with your pet’s fur, skin, or lungs." - Tim Evans, University of Missouri College of Veterinary Medicine - for the NY Times

Watch the 2-min video below about using essential oils in diffusers around your pet.

Are Essential Oils Harmful to Pets?

With that said, whenever you’re trying a new product with an essential oil, you should do a small spot test on your pup to ensure they don’t have an allergic reaction. If your pup gets a little rash, or starts scratching, discontinue use.

Can Essential Oils Help Your Pet?

Essential oils have great benefits for people, but what about for pets? Can your four-legged friend benefit from a scent infused in their environment or applied to their skin?

The short answer is yes, with a larger question about the actual overall efficacy. Remember, asking "can essential oils help" is like asking, "can medicine help?" There are so many different essential oils (just like there are so many different medications) that you have to be more specific.

A study by the National Institute of Health (NIH) confirms certain essential oils exhibit antimicrobial behavior. While these may not be able to replace an antibiotic ointment, they may help stave off an overgrowth of bacteria and yeast that live on your pup’s skin.

In particular, dogs with skinfolds benefit from regular cleaning and application of moisturizers and humectants such as dog balms that contain frankincense essential oil for example.

Another study shows that thyme essential oil (among others) is good for repelling fleas!

Frankincense has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which may help with joint pain and fight off skin infections.

Check our USDA certified organic line of dog and cat balms here.

What Are the Symptoms of Essential Oil Toxicity?

Essential oil toxicity in pets is more likely to happen when the oil has either been inhaled or consumed (via droplets spread with an infuser).

If the worst-case scenario happens and your fur baby encounters a toxic oil or simply has too much essential oil in too short a span, they can end up poisoned.

Obviously, I hope you never have to experience this, but it's better to be informed ahead of time.

So, what are the symptoms of a dog with oil toxicity?

• Strong scent of the oil, particularly if your fur baby got into your bottles or ate an entire product at once.
• Redness around the mouth, where the oil came into contact with their skin.
• Difficulty breathing, particularly if they inhaled large amounts of the oil.
• Drooling.
• Fatigue.
• Difficulty walking, muscle tremors, or other signs of weakness or dysfunction.
• Pawing at their mouth or face, like there's something they're trying to get rid of but can't.
• Vomiting.

If your fur baby smells strongly like an oil and is exhibiting any of these symptoms, take them to the vet immediately.

Your vet will be able to run blood tests and other exams to check the extent of their exposure, and help you plan the next steps. Often, this kind of exposure is treatable, though unpleasant.

Additionally, you can contact an animal poison control center for immediate assistance 24/7. These centers, based in the United States, specialize in helping veterinary patients.

They will be able to provide specific assistance. The following are available 24 hours a day, but they do charge a fee for their services:

Pet Poison Hotline
800-213-6680

ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center
888-426-4435

How to Safely Use Essential Oils in the Home

If you're interested in using essential oils and you're worried about your fur baby, or if you're already a regular user of aromatherapy, but you're looking to adopt a dog (great choice!), you need to put a few safe habits into practice.

• Keep essential oils in a safe location. First and foremost, make sure any pure essential oils or oil-carrying products are securely locked away from your pup. A cabinet out of your fur baby's reach, preferably with a lock or latch, or even just a case they can't open can all be good ideas. Remember, especially, puppies will chew on anything and can get into places they shouldn't, so use extra care.
• Handle essential oils away from your fur babies. When handling raw essential oils, keep your pup contained elsewhere so you don’t get bumped or distracted and spill the oil. Preferably, prepare them in a kitchen or bathroom sink. That way if a spill occurs you can easily clean it up.
• Wear gloves. Make sure to use use gloves when opening a brand-new bottle. I learned this lesson the hard way when opening a new bottle of rosemary (a hot oil). It came with a plastic plug that I had to pry out of the mouth of the bottle. When the plug finally came free, I splashed the rosemary all over my hand. It immediately started to turn red and my skin started to burn. I of course washed it off right away, but my skin stayed pink for hours due to the irritation from the oil. The last thing you want is to accidentally spill raw oil on your fur baby.
• Never confine your dog to a room that has an essential oil diffuser. If you like to diffuse essential oils, make sure that you do so in an area that you pup has the choice to leave. Additionally, make sure that the diffuser is on a stable and unreachable surface by your pup. For example, you can place it up high where your dog cannot get close and get his or her nose or tongue on it.
• Consider the dilution rate. There are a ton of DIY recipes online which are fine for humans but remember your pup’s sense of smell is somewhere between 10,000 to 100,000 times better than yours, so even a small amount can be irritating. Ask your veterinarian.
• Avoid plug-in diffusers. Given the regular location of most outlets around the house, plug-in diffusers will be easily accessible by your curious dog or cat. Instead, use corded diffusers that you can place beyond their reach as high as possible.
• Consider already diluted essential oils. If you’re more safety conscience, but still want the benefits, you can always forgo the raw essential oils and purchase products that already include a diluted version.

Which Scents are Safe for Dogs?

As I noted earlier, most essential oils, when properly diluted are safe for topical use on dogs. The keyword here is topical.

When choosing an essential oil to use with your pup, always observe their behavior. If you’re getting any negative reaction that’s a sign to stop use.

Let’s go through some essential oils that are commonly used in products for dogs:

• Lavender, Geranium, and Chamomile provide benefits to your dog’s coat, including strengthening and conditioning the hair as well as adding softness and shine.
• Cedarwood, Rosemary, Thyme, Lemongrass, and Arborvitae all help repel those pests that like to latch on during outside playtime.
• Frankincense, Myrrh Copaiba, and Marjoram all help reduce inflammation, which may help lesson joint discomfort.
• Lavender is great for motion sickness.

I cannot stress this enough: even these essential oils are dangerous if you put them directly on your fur baby, or if they eat them. Always dilute using a carrier oil (for example coconut oil) before applying to your dog’s skin.

Ensuring your canine companion's safety is of utmost importance when it comes to essential oil use, so if you have any questions or concerns about essential oil use around your furry friends, please be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll do my best to assist you however I possibly can.

Additionally, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!