You might not know what it is, why it's done, or how it works, though. So, let's talk about it! There's a lot to know and a few myths I want to dispel, so I've got a lot to say.

What is Ear Tipping?

Ear tipping is the polite way of saying, "cutting off the tip of the ear of a cat."

It's used as a way to identify certain kinds of cats and to facilitate dealing with community cats and ferals that aren't otherwise going to be adopted or taken in.

Why Are Some Cats Ear-Tipped?

Ear tipping is a signal. It's a visible sign that a cat has been trapped, spayed or neutered, vaccinated, and released.

The unfortunate reality of life is that there are a lot more cats out there in the world than there are parents to love them.

Shelters are routinely full, people looking to adopt have more options than they could hope for, and those cats do what all animals in nature do: produce more cats.

In order to control the population of feral and community cats, many cities across the country and around the world have set up TNR programs. TNR stands for Trap, Neuter, Release (and some versions add in V for Vaccinate), and that's exactly what they do.

They set up traps where they know feral cats are taking shelter, usually baited with food. When the cat gets trapped, they're brought to a vet.

The vet will examine them, check them for diseases or injuries, and give them treatment as necessary. If they're in otherwise good health, they'll be vaccinated.

Then, the cat will be anesthetized and fixed. Whether it's a spay or a neuter, it helps control the number of feral cats trying to survive in a neighborhood.

The more ferals there are in a cat colony, the harder it is for them all to survive; food and water are harder to come by, fights can cause injuries and infections that lead to death, and diseases can spread more easily.

TNR programs help cut down both on the common causes of death for feral cats and on the number of feral cats trying and struggling to survive.

Keep in mind that this is mostly done with true ferals. Stray cats are generally a lot friendlier and can be rescued and adopted, while feral cats are very scared, standoffish, and a lot harder to even get close to, let alone interact with.

Most people don't have the time, inclination, or attitude necessary to try to socialize a feral cat, so they're usually left more to their own devices.

Back to ear tipping. When a cat is a participant in a TNR program, there needs to be some way to identify them.

After all, you don't want to waste resources bringing the same cat to the vet multiple times to get them looked after, right? It's better to spend those resources on more cats.

Since there aren't really any good ways to leave a permanent mark on a cat that is visible from a distance and can't be removed (so, no collars, no dyes, nothing like that), ear tipping is the best solution we have. I'll talk a bit more about alternatives and why we chose ear tipping later on in this post.

What Are the Benefits of Ear Tipping?

Ear tipping has two main benefits.

Ear-Tipping Benefit #1

The first is for TNR programs, animal control officers, well-meaning people, and vets. Tipping the ear of a cat is a visible indicator that the cat has been through a TNR process.

If the cat is spotted and called in later, and a professional investigates, they can find that the cat has been tipped.

There still might be valuable reasons to capture the cat. A feral that is preying on local chickens or other small livestock, for example, might need to be relocated so they aren't disruptive.

A feral that is getting into fights with local cats and other animals, too, might be up for relocation.

But, if the only concern is that the cat might be stray or feral and need attention, that's not much of a problem. Ear tipping tells you everything you need to know; the cat is already treated and isn't going to be any more of a problem than a single cat on their own can be.

Ear-Tipping Benefit #2

The second benefit is for the cat.

Being trapped, brought into a vet, and possibly anesthetized can all be very stressful for any animal.

For well-socialized pets and the occasional stray, it's a little easier to deal with. For a feral, which is likely already very fearful and distrustful of people, it's an immensely stressful time.

Anesthesia also can be very stressful and even potentially dangerous for an animal. So, the less a cat has to go through that process, the better.

Ear tipping is a visible way to prevent picking up and stressing out the same cat over and over. It's simple, easy, and useful.

Are There Drawbacks to Ear Tipping?

While the benefits are clear, are there any drawbacks to ear tipping?

Truthfully, not really. The only real drawback is that some people don't like the look of a cat with asymmetrical ears, but really, that's not a problem.

The cats getting ear-tipped are usually afraid enough of people that you're not going to interact with them very much, so it doesn't really matter what they look like.

Some people are afraid that ear tipping is painful, disfiguring, or changes the personality of a cat.

Fortunately, nothing can be further from the truth. Most cats don't really notice or care that they've been ear-tipped. They don't really have the same kind of self-image that people do, and a cosmetic change like an ear tip is just a tiny change to adapt to.

Does Ear Tipping Hurt?

Yes and no.

Technically, ear tipping hurts. Any damage to the flesh triggers pain receptors, and that means pain.

But honestly? It's no different than getting an ear pierced at your local mall's Claire's. The ear is fairly light on pain receptors and nerves, especially in cats, where it's one of the more injury-prone parts of a cat. Catfights can leave ears damaged, after all.

More importantly, though, cats are never ear-tipped while they're awake. Since they're being anesthetized for the spay or neuter surgery, the ear tipping is done at the same time.

The cat won't feel a thing when their ear is tipped. For real, the recovery from the surgery is going to be more painful than the ear tipping, and even that is relatively minor. Cats can spring back pretty easily from a lot of injuries.

So, while it's technically true that ear tipping would cause pain, the cat in question isn't going to be awake for it, and it will heal quickly enough that they'll never feel it.

Are Cats Bothered by Ear Tipping?

Not at all.

Have you ever seen one of those videos of a cat with paralyzed back legs just dragging them around, or one missing a front leg that has no trouble running and playing, or a cat with no eyes that can still explore, jump onto furniture, and enjoy a good scritch? An ear tip is nothing compared to those, and cats can adapt to those life-changing injuries in no time.

It's kind of questionable whether or not a cat even notices that they've been ear-tipped. Yeah, the tip of their ear is missing, but it's not like that tip is used for much of anything.

Enough of the ear is still there that they can do all of their ear-based body language just fine. They don't have self-esteem that would be bothered by it, and they aren't exactly looking themselves over in the mirror before they go about their day.

Does Ear Tipping Affect Hearing?

Cats can go deaf, but there's no evidence to suggest that cat hearing is affected by ear tipping.

Maybe there's a tiny loss of acuity for very precise hearing, but it really doesn't seem likely. No real formal studies have been done, but it's not going to cause hearing loss, make them more susceptible to infections, or anything like that.

Ear-tipped cats still live long and full lives just as much as any other community cat, and ear-tipping doesn't impact that quality of life.

In fact, ear-tipped cats live better lives because of the vaccinations and medical care they're given; they're less prone to illness and disease that can cause long-term issues.

Is Ear Tipping an Infection Risk?

Only very slightly. Any injury, no matter how small, is a potential vector for infection. Even flea bites can cause an infection.

Ear tipping is a very small, superficial injury, though, and it's always healed before the cat is released back into the wild.

The chances of a cat being tangibly harmed from an ear-tipping procedure are pretty much zero.

What Should You Do if You Find an Ear-Tipped Cat?

What do you want to do?

I like to say hi, make a few pspspspsps noises, maybe refill their food or water dishes while I'm at it.

They don't usually pay much attention to me, and stay pretty wary and distant, so I'm not going to get any good headbutts or kneading going.

Ear tipping is almost always done for feral cats, and feral cats usually want pretty much nothing to do with you.

You'll only even notice that they're tipped if you're paying attention and know what to look for.

The exception, of course, is if the cat is in obvious distress. If they've been injured in a fight or hit by a car, if they're clearly sick and weak or emaciated, or if they're otherwise in a bad way, you can try to trap them and bring them to a vet for treatment.

For normal, healthy community cats that have been ear-tipped, just interact with them as you would any other cat.

There's not much else you can do. Just be cautious; don't try to push their boundaries, or you risk being swiped at and clawed up.

Should You Tip Your Cat's Ears?

No.

Ear tipping is, again, an indication of ferals and stray community cats. It's not something you do to your beloved pets and feline companions.

If you've seen someone who has a pet cat and that cat has a tipped ear, it's more likely that they adopted and socialized a feral cat than that they tipped the ear of a cat they adopted otherwise.

Are There Alternatives to Ear Tipping?

There are a few.

One is ear-notching. Ear tipping involves cutting off the top quarter inch of the cat's ear so it's visibly different than a whole ear.

Ear notching is smaller and is more like a little V cut out of the ear. Notching was also common, but it's hard to tell between a notched ear and a cat that had their ear clawed or bitten in a fight, so it's less reliable as an indicator.

It's also harder to see from a distance, so skittish cats might be trapped more often because of it.

Some people use things like chips to identify feral cats, but these also don't provide the same kinds of benefits.

A chip needs to be scanned, which means the cat needs to be trapped, and then you've already wasted the time and effort, removing the benefit of tipping.

In some areas, tags are used. Tags are visible, but they're bulky and can disrupt a cat's life more than a tipping.

They can also get caught on things or get snagged in a catfight and can be ripped out, causing pain, a possible infection risk, and removing the identification. They aren't very good.

Pretty much any method of identifying a feral that has been through TNR is less effective or less beneficial than ear tipping, which is why we use it. Until something better comes along, it's what we've got.

Want to know anything else about ear tipping? Have a question I didn't answer? If so, let me know!

What are Cat Years?

The idea of cat years is a way to balance the scale and think about our furry friends in their own context.

If you assume, for example, that a human lives to be about 80 years old, and you know that cats live to be about an average of 15 years old, you can create a scale. If you then divide up 1-15 into 80 individual segments, you can calculate how many "years" old a cat would be in human years.

A cat aged 15 years old would be the equivalent of 80 years old "in cat years," and so on.

The reality, though, is that this kind of scale doesn't actually work. Human development is initially slower, and cat development moves in leaps and bounds throughout their early life.

That means a cat that is only a month old can be in the 1-2 "cat years" old stage, and by the time they reach their first birthday, they're actually the human equivalent of about 15. By the time a cat is four years old, they're the human equivalent of 32 years old. But this isn't a linear scale. It's a little more complex than that.

How are Cat Years Calculated?

Cat years are calculated by taking their age in real years and adding some amount, plus the next year plus a number, and so on. It's kind of tricky, so most of the time, people present it as a chart.

As you can see, the age is somewhat frontloaded here; a kitten develops from the equivalent of a human newborn, to a human baby, to a toddler, to a grade-schooler, to a pre-teen, all in the first year or so of their life. After that, development slows down; they reach their adult stage and simply age as gracefully as they can. These cat life stages are something I go into in greater detail here.

You might notice that the numbers added to each stage alternate once they reach three real-life years old. This isn't really necessary; you can just add 4.5 each time instead of alternating 4 and 5. There are also other charts that estimate this differently, and use 3.5 instead or alternate between +3 and +4.

I've also seen estimates that cats age fifteen cat years in their first year, seven years in each of their next two years, and then four years for every following year.

All of this makes it pretty clear that cat years are made up. When all of the major pet resources have authoritative guides on cat year calculations, and they all have different calculations, it's pretty clear that it's not actually that important to get it all right.

Does this really matter? Not really. The truth is, cat years are mostly a made up fiction for we people to compare our kitties to, to say "look at my old man" while we pet our dozy and snuggly old boy while he naps in a sunbeam.

How Long is a Cat Year?

It varies! Cat years are basically just made up, though. So, there are a few different answers to this question.

The simple answer is that a cat year is the same as a human year. Cats don't experience the seasons any faster than we do, and 365 sundowns and sunrises make a year, no matter what species you are.

Another simple answer is that a cat year is around 4-5 human years, equivalent. Or maybe it's better phrased the other way around: a human year is the time it takes a cat to age 4-5 cat years.

When you factor in the table above, it's even more different. The first cat year is the most action-packed of all of them and crams in 15 years of development. The second is a much slower pace and is only a decade. After that, it settles into a rhythm of averages of four or five years each year.

While it's fun to calculate and think about, it's not really useful to think about cat years.

Are Cat Years Real?

Yes and no.

Cat years are as real as any other concept in human experience. We decided that a cat year has some meaning, and so cat years have some meaning, at least to us.

Our cats? They don't care. They take each day as it comes, they don't know, care, or celebrate birthdays, and the only attachment they have to time is their internal clocks telling them when it's time to be fed.

Woe betide you if it's daylight savings time and you set your clocks an hour different and you haven't adjusted feeding time to match.

Cat years can be "real" in that they give you some sort of expectation of the kinds of health concerns to anticipate for your cat. A cat reaching 12 years old might not sound that old from human experience, but they're well into their golden years as far as cat years are concerned, so you'd want to be watching for those signs of old age. Knowing if you should be watching for the signs of kitty dementia, for example, can be important.

Then again, if you're taking your feline companion to the vet for regular checkups, you don't really need a cat year calculation for that; they'll keep you apprised of what you should be watching for and what you should anticipate.

What Affects a Cat's Aging?

One of the biggest problems with cat years is that it's not really reflective of anything in reality. The truth is, a lot of different things can impact how long a cat lives and how long they maintain their youthful attitudes and energy levels.

Your cat's breed. The breed of cat can be impactful. Often, the more purebred the cat breed, the shorter the lifespan. Cats with some amount of wildcat in them can live longer. Larger cats can often live longer, though that's not always true. "Mutt" cats, like plain old everyday domestic shorthairs, are generally on the longer side of average.

The breed is also important because some breeds have genetic issues that mean they can be predisposed to certain diseases, especially in old age, that can lead to organ failure and an earlier passing.

Their weight. Obese cats have much shorter lifespans than cats in a healthy weight range. Obesity is a problem in cats, in people, and even in wild animals, and it's not an easy problem to solve. Weight maintenance is very important for the long-term health of your cat, and the longer they go in an overweight state, the more likely they are to develop problems related to it, including pancreas issues, diabetes, arthritis, and more.

Underweight cats also have shorter lifespans due to malnutrition, and they often have a harder time fighting off parasites and infections. Feeding cats properly is tricky but important!

Indoor versus outdoor living. Cats that spend all their time outdoors are, unfortunately, much more likely to die earlier. There are a ton of reasons for this: exposure to the elements, fights with wild animals and other cats, greater exposure to illness and parasites, less ability to be treated, less consistent food and water, less clean water, encounters with cars, encounters with evil people; the list goes on and on and on.

There's a reason there's a huge push these days to keep cats inside and to catch-fix-release strays and ferals to reduce the overall outdoor population. It's not good for local wildlife, it's not good for the cats, and it's not good for the people who have to deal with the repercussions of it all.

Food quality. Another factor in lifespan is simple food quality. The better quality the food – that is, the less filler in particular – the better off a cat will be. A balanced diet can be tricky and expensive to maintain, but the worse the food is, the harder it is to keep a cat going without running into obesity or other health issues. This is also another reason why keeping cats indoors is important; you can more easily control what they eat.

Checkups and treatments. Cats with regular veterinary care are going to live longer than cats without it. Whether this means keeping an eye on teeth, getting prescriptions for illnesses, diagnosing allergies and food sensitivities, or taking care of parasites, it's all part of the process.

Parasite exposure. Parasites might seem like they're something you can treat and get rid of, but the aftereffects can linger. Cats that get parasites might be at higher risk of developing long-term illnesses, including cancer, because of it. Even when the parasite is gone, the damage is not, and it can manifest years later.

How Can You Tell a Cat's Life Stage?

A cat's stage of life is fairly easy to evaluate. Are they young, small, and lanky? They're a kitten. Are they full-size but still relatively energetic? They're an adult. Are they full-size but sleepier? They're probably a senior.

You can read my guide to cat life stages for more detail.

For that matter, vets don't necessarily go by pure time for a cat's life stage. They can evaluate the overall status of a cat based on other factors as well. These can include:

• Size
• Weight
• Oral health
• Eye health
• Ear health
• Bodily condition
• Behavior
• Blood work results
• Physical examination results

All of these can help a vet determine how old the cat is, and give you some idea of how old they are in terms of lifespan. This can be useful if you're picking up a stray cat and considering adopting it; you might want to know about how old it is and how long it has left before you make specific long-term life plans.

You can tell the rough age of a cat by their teeth, too. Kittens get their first teeth in the first 2-4 weeks of life. Their baby teeth come in sharp and strong, but they only have 26 of them. When they get a little older, around 4-6 months, they'll start to lose those kitten teeth, and their adult teeth will grow in. They'll have 30 adult teeth. Senior cats, of course, might have lost some teeth over time, but you'll be able to tell whether or not a cat is a senior by other means.

You can also often tell that a cat is getting on in years when their fur coat starts to get some gray hairs to it, and it ends up a little more raggedy and a little less well-groomed. Older cats might not groom themselves as much, or they might focus more on certain areas and forget about others, so they can look a little scruffy.

What's the Best Cat Year?

All of them!

Whether you calculate your kitty's years in cat years or human years, the important part is to spend each and every one of those years caring for, playing with, loving, and enjoying your feline companion. For you, they may not be more than a decade of your life; for them, you are there with them their whole life. A good and bonded cat will love you with the whole of their being, and you can love them back just as strongly, no matter what timeline you use to calculate their age.

So, here we are at the end of this article! Do you have any questions about anything I mentioned in this article, or would you like any additional clarification on a specific part? If so, I'm always more than happy to help you out however I can. Just leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you with a reply as soon as I can!

For longer trips, though, cats need to be cared for. You might be able to leave your fur baby with a friend or family member for a few weeks or months while you travel, but sometimes, that option just isn't available. If you're going abroad for a significant length of time – teaching ESL in another country, moving for a job, caring for family in another nation for an extended time, or whatever other reason brings you across the border – you may want to figure out how to bring your cat.

If you're looking for the same sort of information but for your dog instead, check out this guide I wrote. While a lot of the information is the same across both of these, there are some unique peculiarities between species you'll want to know.

Can You Travel Internationally with Your Cat?

This is a surprisingly tricky question to answer. The fact is, every country in the world is able to set its own rules and laws. Some of them don't let you travel to them at all, some prohibit bringing pets of any sort into the country, some have restrictions on the types and breeds of pets you can bring in, and some are completely open to any companion you're taking with you.

It's also important to keep in mind that coming back to the USA has its own requirements. Most of the time, if you have everything you need to travel out of the country, you'll have everything you need to come back, but you should still take the time to double-check before your return trip.

Can You Travel to Another Country with a FIV+ Cat?

FIV, or feline immunodeficiency virus, is generally more well-controlled than some other pet-borne diseases like rabies. As such, most countries don't restrict cats with FIV. You'll need to have an appropriate health certificate, vaccination records, and possibly lab test results, but you won't be outright prohibited, at least as far as I know. If you know of a country that does prohibit FIV+ cats, let me know in the comments!

One thing to keep in mind, though, is that FIV makes your cat more susceptible to infections and diseases, and when you travel, you risk picking up something that isn't local to you (obviously). The stress of a flight, the need to be shipped along with other animals, and the new germ profile of wherever you land might put your fur baby at risk. It's often a good idea to find a place for your FIV+ kitty to live back home while you travel, as much as you might want to bring them with you.

How Do You Find the Rules for International Travel with a Cat?

Every country is allowed to set its own rules for importing pets, which means you need to be able to find those rules so you can follow them. For example, you may need a valid international pet health certificate, you may need to apply to bring your cat with you in advance, and there may be specific limitations on certain kinds of pets. With cats, you're probably fine as far as breed restrictions go, though you may have issues if you have an exotic breed like a serval, caracal, or other larger semi-wild cat breeds. Dogs tend to have more breed-based travel restrictions than cats.

There are a few ways you can find the information necessary to travel with your cat to another country. One of the easiest is to find that country's embassy information. Most countries have a foreign embassy in Washington D.C. and have information on contacting them that is publicly available on this page. By calling, emailing, or otherwise reaching out to them, you can learn their restrictions on pets.

Another option is to visit the USDA's Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service page, which lists various countries and their pet travel requirements. There are also frequently websites for those individual country governments you can check as well.

What if you're traveling to multiple countries in a single trip?

If you plan to, for example, fly into a country in Southeast Asia and then travel throughout the region from country to country, staying in different places for just a month or two at a time, then you'll have to contend with a wide range of different regulations.

If you're traveling to one country and back, you only need to know that country's restrictions. If you're traveling between foreign nations before returning home, you'll need to know the restrictions on each nation. You don't want to get halfway through a trip and find one particular country that prohibits your cat from entering, right?

Sometimes, this is easy. The European Union largely has one set of codified rules for most of its member nations. Other countries stipulate their own rules, and it can be a mess to deal with. You also might have different restrictions depending on whether you're driving across the borders with your cat or flying internationally with your cat.

What Information and Supplies Do You Need to Travel Internationally with Your Cat?

There's a lot you'll need before you can travel to another country with your cat.

Get a USDA-Endorsed pet health certificate.

A pet health certificate is just a piece of paperwork that says your pet is in good health and is up to date on their vaccinations. Most of the time, your vet can give you this certificate quickly and easily.

A USDA-endorsed pet health certificate is a little more complicated. It's the same paperwork, but you can only get it from a USDA-endorsed veterinarian. It generally costs a fee to get your certificate endorsed. This certificate is frequently required as an internationally-recognized standard for validation.

Obviously, your cat needs to be in good health and updated on their vaccinations in order to get this certificate. The last thing you want is to commit an international crime by lying about your cat's health! Rabies vaccinations are extra important in particular, so make sure your cat is boosted as necessary before you travel.

The USDA has a whole page dedicated to this paperwork and an office you can call to ask any questions you may have, so check it out here.

Some places have alternative options you can investigate. For example, the EU has a Pet Passport system. It's rather similar to the USDA health certificate but is broadly recognized and available throughout the EU. If your trip involves numerous EU countries, getting one of these pet passports might be a good idea.

Get an ISO-certified microchip.

The International Organization for Standardization is the global organization responsible for setting standards for all sorts of things, including technology. Two standards – ISO 11784 and ISO 11785 – are relevant to microchips for pets. They outline things like how the chip needs to be made, and what kind of data, in what formats, it should contain.

You don't need to know what the standards are, but you probably do need to make sure your cat has an ISO-certified microchip. That way, if the worst happens and your fur baby escapes while you're traveling, local vets can scan for a valid chip with information they can read and can find you. Obviously, make sure it has relevant information on it that the vet can use to contact you.

There are a lot of quirks to how microchip numbers and standards are handled, and what databases they connect to, so you might want to familiarize yourself with them, or at least the type and brand of chip your cat has, before you travel.

Check applications, approvals, and timelines.

Some countries essentially let you bring a cat along and just review your documentation at customs. Others require advance approval and an application process you need to have submitted well in advance. This process can take months, so make sure you do your research well in advance of when you're planning to bring your cat to the country with you and have all of your paperwork squared away.

Are There Other Details to Know About Traveling Internationally with Your Cat?

Of course. There will always be more details, so I'll cover everything I can to try to help you travel more smoothly.

Make sure to scout your accommodations ahead of time. With dogs, you have to worry about things like dog parks nearby, how dog-friendly the local establishments are, and so on. Cats don't have the same needs, but you do need to make sure any place you're staying, for short term or long term, allows your cat. You don't want to show up at a hotel, condo, or apartment only to find your cat isn't allowed, right?

Have your accessories ready to go. There's a lot you might want to make sure you have to make travel a smoother experience.

• A sturdy, breathable carrier for your cat while they're being moved throughout airports, planes, and accommodations.
• A collar that is easy to remove for airport security if necessary and reliable enough to stay in place around an anxious kitty.
• A harness, for times when your cat needs to be out of the carrier but still controlled. Make sure you spend some time getting them used to it in advance!
• Folding or collapsible bowls for food and water. Especially for very long flights, you'll probably need to give your fur baby some nourishment.
• A portable litter box and sealable bags. You may not be able to dispose of your cat's waste on a plane, so some backup to secure it without making the flight unpleasant for everyone is a good idea.

Consider the availability of food and medicine. This is especially relevant if your cat is on a special diet for health reasons; you may not be able to find the right kinds of foods or even certain medications where you're traveling. Unfortunately, some places around the world don't give as much consideration or care to cats. You might also want to make sure you have a vet lined up in advance in case something happens. You want to know where to go in an emergency, after all.

Pay attention to the flight planning itself. I have a whole guide on flying with a cat, so check that out and plan ahead. Chances are, if your cat is too big, if you have more than one cat, or if you're on certain airlines, you may not be allowed to bring your cat with you in the cabin, and they may need to fly cargo. Make sure you're planning ahead!

One detail is that some vets might recommend anxiety medications before a flight, especially if it's a longer flight. However, some airlines might prohibit sedating or medicating a pet before a flight because it can become a health risk. Double-check the details.

Give them plenty of time to acclimate to their new environs. Cats are creatures of routine, habit, and stability. Once you arrive at your destination, they will probably find the smallest, darkest space they can to hide in for a while until they feel more comfortable. It can take them days or even weeks to get used to their new home, so make sure to give them that space and time.

If all goes well, you'll have a comforting friend in a new living situation, and you'll only need to repeat the process when you return. Hopefully, all goes well for you! If you have additional advice or perspective, or if you have questions I missed, let me know in the comments as well.

Whenever there's a funny "challenge" to feed a pet some strange food, though, I always ask myself: is this safe? Is it okay to feed a dog something like broccoli, or are there toxic compounds or chemicals that can aggravate them if they eat it?

Fortunately, with broccoli, there's good news. If you want to contribute to the growing pile of hilarious dogs confronting broccoli on the internet, you're safe to do so.

Is Broccoli Safe for Dogs?

The short answer is yes, broccoli is safe for dogs to consume.

It's safe both when it's raw and when it's cooked, too, so you don't need to worry about having to steam it up every time you want to give them a treat.

You might also discover that your dog likes cooked broccoli more than raw – or vice versa, and they like raw broccoli more than cooked. Just like people, dogs have different preferences, and cooked and raw broccoli have both different flavors and different textures.

Watch out, though; broccoli florets are made up of tons of little bits, and all of those bits can get everywhere if your pooch is a messy eater. You'll be cleaning up green stuff for ages.

There is a longer answer, though.

How Much Broccoli is Too Much for Dogs?

Unfortunately, broccoli does contain a particular chemical compound that is actually mildly toxic to dogs. It's called isothiocyanate, and it's common in all of the different kinds of brassica vegetables. In case you don't know, a lot of different edible vegetables are just various kinds of brassica we've bred over the millennia to be different species. Turnips, rutabagas, radishes, wasabi, horseradish, kohlrabi, kale, cabbage, bok choy, collards, watercress, arugula, mustard greens, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, and of course broccoli, are all brassicas.

Luckily, this chemical isn't going to kill a dog if they eat broccoli. It causes mild gastric upset and, in sufficient amounts, can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, and rarely, potentially severe side effects.

So, why do we say it's safe for dogs to eat broccoli?

You would have to be feeding your dog a lot of broccoli for this to be a problem. The American Kennel Club specifies that broccoli should be no more than 10% of their diet to stay safe; anything over 25% of their diet causes problems, and severe side effects are unlikely unless they're eating way more than that.

Why just 10% of their diet?

Using a percentage here is important because it's impossible to give a measurement in cups or grams. After all, if you feed two cups of broccoli to a mastiff, it's going to have a very different experience than if you feed two cups of broccoli to a chihuahua, right?

The AKC and other organizations tend to use percentages for these kinds of things when it's just a general recommendation for exactly this reason. It's just a way of saying keep intake down and don't make broccoli a key part of your dog's diet. You probably aren't going to be doing that anyway, but, you know, words of caution.

For more specific chemicals, medications, and the like, these organizations will instead use dosages per kilogram or pound of body weight to adjust for the size of the dog being treated. That's important for medications and compounds with a strong effect, but not so much for something like broccoli.

Is Broccoli Beneficial for Dogs?

Sort of. As a vegetable, broccoli is rich in dietary fiber and low in protein and fat. It's also high in vitamin C. On top of that, it has other vitamins – A, D, K, and more – as well as lutein, a beneficial nutrient for eyesight and heart health. These are nutrients that are beneficial to dogs just as much as they are to people, so it's not a bad thing for your dog to have some as a snack.

At the same time, the isothiocyanates can be detrimental in large amounts, and there's a lot in broccoli that isn't really important to a pooch. We tend to think of things like broccoli as healthy because they're healthy for people, but they aren't as great for dogs; they're just fine.

How to Prepare Broccoli for a Dog?

If you want to give your pup a snack with a little broccoli, you should make sure you're doing it right. There are four rules you absolutely have to follow; otherwise, you will put your pooch in grave danger!

Okay, well, it's not quite that scary. But it's still important!

Rule number one! Cut the broccoli into bite-sized pieces. Broccoli, especially if it's raw broccoli, is actually kind of tough. And you know dogs, they barely chew their food, and they'll snarf it right down if they get the chance. Put a bowl with a few broccoli florets on it in front of them, and if they like it, they'll start gulping. And then what? Then you have a dog choking on broccoli! Nobody wants that. So cut the broccoli small. As an added bonus, this also helps you keep track of how much you've given them.

Rule number two! Cook the broccoli first. This isn't actually that firm of a rule – some dogs can eat raw broccoli just fine – but it's also a way to help keep it safe. Cooked broccoli is softer and easier to chew, so it's much less likely to get stuck and become a choking hazard. It also holds together better and makes less of a mess when your fur baby starts going to town on it.

Cooking the broccoli is also important for food sanitization reasons. Unfortunately, food regulations are in a lull right now – you've probably noticed the seemingly weekly recalls for things like salmonella and listeria – and those bad bacteria can affect dogs, too. Cooking the broccoli makes it safer for both your consumption and your doggo's.

Rule number three! Start with a small amount until you know how your dog reacts. Some dogs won't like broccoli at all, and cooking up a bunch for them doesn't do you any good. Some dogs will love it, and if you're not careful, they'll try to get at every salad you make.

More importantly, though, some dogs will be more sensitive to isothiocyanates, so it takes a smaller amount of broccoli to cause them digestive upset. Give them no more than a floret or two (depending on the size of the dog) and watch them to see if they start to have digestive symptoms or signs of an allergic reaction. Allergies are very, very, very rare, so they shouldn't be a problem, but you still need to make sure the first time you give them any.

Finally, rule number four! Never, ever cook the broccoli with spices, seasonings, or anything else. That means if you're making a tasty broccoli dish for yourself, it's just for you, not for the puppy! Salt, garlic, onion, oregano, caraway, tarragon, and a bunch of other spices and herbs are bad for dogs – much worse than isothiocyanates – so you definitely don't want to put them on the broccoli you give to your pup.

Most of the time, you want to give your dog the florets of the broccoli and not the stems. The stems are tougher, harder to chew, and more likely to get stuck in the throat. If you chop them small and steam them well, you can give them the bits, and I know some people will even puree the broccoli stems for a liquid treat as well. Those are options, but if you want more whole vegetables, the florets are the way to go.

What Are the Side Effects of Giving a Dog Broccoli?

When you feed your dog some broccoli, you're probably going to be in for a slightly unpleasant time.

So, here's the thing: broccoli is healthy and tasty, a lot of dogs enjoy it, and it's safe if you give it to your pooch in moderation. But, it also contains some sulfur compounds and a lot of fiber, both of which combine in a dog's digestive system for one particular result.

You probably already know what I'm talking about, right? Stink bombs.

Broccoli, even small amounts of broccoli, can make your dog gassy. If your dog is already naturally gassy, they'll be even more gassy. Worse, broccoli farts are definitely unpleasant.

Some dogs might not be really affected by this. Others might be walking chemical weapons for the rest of the day. There's really no way to tell until you give them some and see how they react.

Truthfully, this is also something you might consider enough of an adverse side effect to stop you from giving them any more broccoli. It's not going to be truly harmful unless it's really bad, but even some bloating and gassiness can be unpleasant for your pooch, so think carefully if the funny videos or the quick treat is worth it.

Dogs Eating Broccoli FAQ

Let's wrap things up with a quick summary of some of the most common questions about dogs and broccoli.

Can dogs eat broccoli safely?

Yes, as long as they don't eat too much of it. Handing them a floret as a snack or for a funny video on TikTok is fine. Feeding them a vegan diet full of broccoli is not. You want to make sure it's a snack or a treat and not a significant portion of their diet.

How much broccoli is too much for a dog?

The AKC recommends no more than 10% of a dog's daily diet be broccoli. That's not much, but it can be more than you might think, depending on the size of your pooch. Either way, treat it as a snack or a treat, and you'll be fine.

What do you need to do to give your dog broccoli safely?

Start with a small portion to make sure they don't have a bad reaction. Make sure to cook it – usually by steaming it – with no added seasonings, not even salt. Cut it up into small bite-size portions for your pooch, and make sure to watch them in case they choke even on the little bits you give them.

Special note: when you cook broccoli for your fur baby, make sure to let it cool before you give it to them! You don't want to accidentally burn their mouths or throats, after all.

My dog likes frozen broccoli! What can I do to make it safer?

If your dog likes frozen broccoli but doesn't want to touch it if it's cooked, you can try cooking it and then freezing it. That way, it's still cooked, softer, smaller, and easier for them to digest once it thaws, but it's still frozen, so they can still enjoy it while it's cold.

Should I consult with my vet before giving my dog broccoli?

Probably. Your vet might have specific information for you or for your dog, or simply based on their own past experience. In general, they'll tell you the same things I've told you here, but they might have more specific information.

This is especially true if your dog has any ongoing health issues. For example, an elderly dog with some digestive problems in the evening might actually benefit from a little bit of a fiber snack like broccoli, while a puppy might not get much out of it. Other health issues can be affected by gas and bloating as well.

Have you ever given your pooch broccoli? Have you taken one of those funny internet videos? If they act funny around broccoli, I highly recommend it; having that video to laugh about later is great. Plus, I'd love to see it!

Generally used for aromatherapy and adding scents to items, essential oils can have a variety of effects on our bodies and minds, usually in the realm of stress relief and overall calm. Plus, they just smell nice!

A topic that comes up pretty frequently is how these essential oils work with dogs. Are they safe or dangerous? Are they effective or meaningless? How can you make the best use of them? Let's talk about it.

What Are Essential Oils?

What even is an essential oil?

Every plant is made up of a wide variety of chemicals when you break it down into its component parts. Among the many different organic chemicals, some of them come in the form of oils.

These oils are what give plants their distinct aromas and flavors. Sometimes, it's a brilliant scent like sandalwood or lavender. Sometimes, it's a pungent combination of scent and flavor like those of garlic and onion.

Sometimes, it's harsh and acrid, and the oils are more often used in other preparations rather than as oils.

Essential oil is what you get when you take a plant, strip out every part of it that isn't one of these oils, and concentrate it down.

Have you ever held a sprig of mint or a bunch of lavender in your hands and smelled the fragrance that comes from it when you lightly crush or break the plant? That's a minuscule amount of essential oil being released.

A true essential oil is vastly more concentrated and extremely potent. Just a single drop of essential oil can be enough to infuse something like a blanket or plushie with scent for days or weeks, and just a few drops can scent an entire candle.

How Do Essential Oils Work?

Physically and chemically, essential oils are oil-based compounds that carry the molecules that are themselves the scent and flavor components of a plant. For some plants, you're after the scent, and for others, both scent and flavor are important. Chemicals like monoterpenes, terpenoids, and phenylpropanoids are the most common, though every essential oil has a different set of compounds.

As for medicinal uses, there's more questioning involved. Essential oils are used as part of aromatherapy, which means it's all about the smell. When you smell an essential oil, some of those compounds are making their way into your system and can react chemically with other compounds in your body.

Some essential oils can promote calmness, fight stress, and, in some cases, possibly even help alleviate minor pain and fight the effects of depression.

Disclaimer: Modern medical science is still studying how aromatherapy works and what therapeutic benefits it has on both people and animals. Essential oils aren't going to do something extreme like fight off illness or cure disease, but stress is a core contributing factor to many illnesses, so stress reduction can be very beneficial in conjunction with other treatments. At the very least, when used properly, essential oils aren't going to be harmful.

To use an essential oil, you generally use a diffuser of some sort. These are often similar to humidifiers but can also be as simple as reeds that wick up oil and diffuse it into the air via passive evaporation. There are many different kinds of diffusers, and you can always directly apply essential oil to something like a pillow or plush toy as well.

Are Essential Oils Safe for Dogs?

Yes and no.

One thing we all know about dogs is that they have an incredibly powerful sense of smell. Most dogs are at least 10,000 times keener than human senses, and some of the more scent-focused breeds can be as much as 100,000 times stronger in their sense of smell than we are.

What this means is that a single drop of a powerful essential oil, which is enough to flood your room with a strong scent, can be overwhelming to even the least sensitive of our fur babies. Even a scent that isn't dangerous to dogs can still be unpleasant until it fades.

Moreover, dogs have different kinds of physiologies than we people do. You know this well, right? Things we enjoy, like chocolate and garlic, are toxic to dogs. It's why we should always avoid giving dogs human food, especially things like spiced meats, because we love cooking with compounds that other creatures can't eat safely. And, sure, while a dog eating a bit of meat that was cooked using garlic powder is unlikely to die from it, even that digestive distress isn't something any of us want to deal with, let alone our poor fur babies.

What Are the Benefits of Essential Oils for Dogs?

If you're considering using essential oils for your dog, the question is, for what? What can an essential oil do, and how can it benefit your fuzzball?

Relaxation and anti-anxiety effects. For much the same reason as why we people use essential oils, they can have some impact on relaxing our furry friends and helping calm down their anxiety.

Skin benefits. Some essential oils have antibacterial properties and can help soothe dry and irritated skin, along with fighting off rashes, skin infections, and parasites. It's not as effective as a prescription treatment, but in cases where you don't need something that strong, an essential oil concoction might be a good idea.

Joint health. Dogs with joint problems, especially older dogs with arthritis, may benefit from certain essential oils that are known to have anti-inflammatory properties and can potentially soothe joint pain.

Respiratory support. Have you ever tried Vicks Vapo-Rub? That pungent menthol scent suffusing your sinuses helps to clear them out when you're feeling under the weather. Some essential oils can have a similar effect on both you and your pooch when you're suffering from congestion or a cold.

Bug repellant. Nobody likes bug bites, and while our fur babies have thick fur coats that can ward off many bugs, a dab of certain essential oils can repel those bugs from even getting close.

Deodorizing. If your fur baby rolled in something or just has a scent about them and you can't seem to get rid of it with a bath, a bit of essential oil can at least help mask it while it fades.

It's all about picking the right essential oils and using them safely and properly. So, let's get into that discussion next.

Which Essential Oils Should You Avoid?

First, let's talk about the essential oils you absolutely should never use on your fur baby or even in the same household as them. These essential oils are toxic and dangerous to dogs, so no matter how good they smell to you, avoid them.

You can divide the dangerous oils into two groups. One group is the "never use" group; these are dangerous enough that no matter how well you use them, you risk doing serious harm to your fur baby. The second group is the "dangerous" oils; these can be used sparingly and carefully to good effect but need to be very carefully controlled to avoid doing harm.

First, the Never Use list:

• Tea Tree. While it's commonly used in people for skin issues, it can cause extreme skin irritation, respiratory issues, lethargy, and even organ damage in dogs.
• Cinnamon. Thoroughly toxic to dogs, this essential oil can lead to vomiting, intestinal distress, and liver damage.
• Pennyroyal. A less common essential oil, this one can cause serious liver damage and damage to the nervous system and should be avoided entirely.
• Clove. A powerful oil for numbing pain, particularly dental pain, this should never be used for dogs because of the risk of serious organ damage.
• Wintergreen. Similar to peppermint, wintergreen is more dangerous and less beneficial than its cousin. In particular, one of the chemicals giving it the characteristic smooth mint scent is closely related to aspirin, which can cause aspirin toxicity. Avoid it.

Next, the Use with Caution list:

• Peppermint. Peppermint has a lot of benefits and smells great, but it's very, very easy to overdo it because of how strong it is. It can also be toxic to dogs in larger quantities, so if you use it, use it very sparingly.
• Thyme. While it's not deadly toxic to dogs, it can be irritating if not diluted or used properly, so it is best to use with caution. We use it in our repel & revive paw balm to help with bacterial and yeast overgrowth in dogs with skin folds.

"Oregano oil, thyme oil, carvacrol and thymol exhibited antibacterial activity against all bacterial and fungal isolates tested." - Vet Dermatol Study Published on NIH

There are some other oils that could be added to these lists, but you aren't likely to find them in common use. Either way, always check for specific oils and their effects on dogs before you choose to use them, just to be safe.

Which Essential Oils Should You Use?

So, what are the safest essential oils to use on dogs? Here's my list.

1. Lavender

2. Cedarwood

3. Rosemary

4. Cornmint (Wild Mint)

5. Frankincense

6. Chamomile

7. Bergamot

8. Geranium

9. Ginger

10. Citronella

11. Myrrh

12. Lemongrass

13. Helichrysum

14. Spearmint

15. Jasmine

16. Neroli

17. Patchouli

18. Cypress

19. Palmarosa

20. Petitgrain

21. Valerian

22. Marjoram

23. Clary Sage

You'll want to look up what each oil can treat and how it can benefit your fur baby before picking one, and read my tips on using them effectively if you're going to get started with essential oils.

How Can You Use Essential Oils Safely for Your Pooch?

Picking an essential oil is only the first step. You also need to know how to use them safely. A discussed some essential tips on how to safely use essential oils in the home in a previous post, here are additional tips.

Start Small.

Use a very diluted essential oil, and only use it for a short time. While you do, keep an eye on your pooch and make sure they aren't showing any signs of illness or distress. Lethargy, trouble breathing, and signs of nervous system issues are all reasons to stop and consult your vet immediately.

Remember, even if an oil isn't toxic to all dogs, your dog might be allergic or sensitive to it, so it could irritate them specifically. Allergic reactions can be very serious and require veterinary attention, so don't set and forget your essential oils.

Never Use an Essential Oil Directly on Your Fur Baby.

There are two big reasons for this. The first is that you almost never need to; essential oils are all about the scent, and there are much better ways to address skin issues than applying an oil.

Moreover, a concentrated essential oil can cause chemical burns; you need to make sure it's properly diluted to even consider topical use, and at that point, you've reduced the effectiveness of the oil enough that it's more for scent than effect anyway.

The second and more important reason is that dogs are dogs. They groom themselves, and the way they do that is by licking themselves. If you wouldn't feed your dog something, you shouldn't put it on their skin or fur either because when they lick themselves, they may as well be eating it. The only exception to this is if they're in a cone or e-collar to prevent licking, but you shouldn't put them in a cone just for an essential oil.

Next, Limit Your Use of Essential Oils and Rotate Them.

You don't want to saturate an area with scent. You'll get used to it and start to use it more, even unconsciously, and that can be irritating. Moreover, since the scent is the important part, getting used to the scent will start to remove the impact of the oil.

The best way to use an essential oil is either with a basic diffuser and a very dilute oil or to put a drop or two into something like a pillow or other object that your fur baby doesn't chew on. Again, you don't want them ingesting the oil, just smelling it. There are plenty of objects designed just for this; you can always make your own, too.

Finally, Never Use Essential Oils In Place of Real Veterinary Treatment.

Essential oils should be complementary and supplementary, not in replacement of effective medicines. You don't want your fur baby to suffer unnecessarily, right? Trust that your vet cares for animals as much as you do and won't steer you wrong.

So, after reading this article, do you have any questions about essential oils or how to use them around your canine companions? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

Purebred cats are often quite distinct, whether you have the hairless Sphynx, the huge and long-haired Maine Coon, or the lean, athletic, and demanding Siamese.

One very popular breed is the Ragdoll. They're fluffy, super soft, gorgeous, and extremely personable, making them very popular pets for families with children and other animals.

Pure bred cats have standards for how they will look, and common personality traits that are not guaranteed, so please keep that in mind as you read this post. Every cat is unique, whether it is a pure bred cat or otherwise.

Ragdoll Cat Vital Stats

Ragdolls are large-sized domestic cats with long coats and a variety of colorations. Here are the vital stats:

• Weight: Large, often over 12 lbs. and as much as 20.
• Length: Long, up to 40 inches.
• Coat: Medium to long-haired.
• Hypoallergenic: No.
• Grooming needs: Moderate to high.
• Lifespan: Up to 17 years.

In general, ragdolls are very personable and friendly cats. They're docile and will accept a lot of different treatment, including the mistreatment of children, which they tolerate well (though it’s best to teach kids how to properly interact with animals from a young age). They aren't usually upset by changes in routine and environment and adapt well to various kinds of minor lifestyle stresses.

Ragdolls have a variety of colors and coat patterns. They can be seal-pointed or seal-mitted, and they can have colors including chocolate, lilac, and more.

The three primary Ragdoll coat patterns are:

• Bi-color, where the coloration is limited to around the ears, tail, mask, and saddle, which are darker than the main body color. This can be as stark as black and white or more muted like a seal point.
• Van, which is even closer to a pure color than bi-color, where the secondary color is limited to the ears, tail, and mask. The differentiation in color tends to be more stark. Everything else is generally required to be pure white, at least for Cat Fancier breed standards.
• Color-point, which is a traditional cat fur coat pattern where the feet, tail, and face are darker. Often, the nose and toe beans are all tinted instead of pink as well.
• Mitted, these are a lot like color-points, except with lighter socks and a distinctive white blaze on their face.

You can read a full breakdown of the different colors and patterns of ragdolls here.

Despite the name, Ragdolls don't go limp when you pick them up or generally act like dolls. That said, if you put one in your lap and give them some good scritches, that's when they'll go limp with pleasure and just enjoy the experience. They're tolerant and happy cats, but they still have their personalities and resistances. They tend to do well in smaller spaces, like apartments.

Ragdolls go with the flow, which makes them excellent companions for many families.

When it comes to exercise, Ragdolls need dedicated and interactive activities, both for physical and mental reasons. Since they're so sociable, they need the engagement to be fulfilled; otherwise, they'll come across as very needy in their affectionate way. They also have nutrition and physical activity needs that must be monitored by vets to make sure they stay healthy throughout their lives. It's easy for a large cat like a ragdoll to end up overweight, and the health issues that arise can be dangerous.

The History of the Ragdoll Cat

Ragdolls were bred in the 1960s, making them a relatively new breed of cat. They were made up of cats with a variety of traits, but the breeder, Ann Baker, was seeking to create a cat that was both beautiful and even-tempered. She started with an Angora, so the Ragdoll has many similarities to the Angora breed. Ann wanted a cat that was relatively low maintenance, pleasant and happy, beautiful to behold, and loving for anyone and everyone. Eventually, she succeeded, with what we know as a Ragdoll.

Ragdolls weren't officially recognized as a breed until the Cat Fanciers Association recognized them in 1998. Since then, they've consistently been one of the most popular purebred cats available. In fact, Ragdolls have been ranked the most popular breed from 2019 to 2022 by the Cat Fanciers’ Association.

Unique Care Needs for Ragdoll Cats

Most purebred animals have special care needs. Some are extreme – we all know the Pug and their issues with breathing – while others have more insidious issues. Fortunately, Ragdolls have a relatively minimal number of breed-related health issues.

Grooming

In terms of grooming, Ragdolls have long coats, but a minimal undercoat making them less mat-prone than double-layer coats in other large, long-haired breeds. They benefit from brushing a couple of times a week, but they don't need daily coat maintenance or special treatments to make sure they stay healthy.

As with all cats, you'll want to regularly trim their claws.

Shedding isn't a huge issue with Ragdolls, again, because of the single rather than double coat. These adorable and friendly felines will certainly shed just like any animal, but less so than something like a Maine Coon.

Note: Ragdolls are not a hypoallergenic breed. Most cat allergies are actually related to a protein in the skin and saliva of the cat called Fel d 1. Even hypoallergenic cats still produce this protein, just in lower amounts. The amount of shedding isn't really related. Modern allergy treatments can make cat allergies a lot more bearable or even go into remission through allergy shots.

Exercise

Ragdolls also need plenty of exercise so they can stay at a healthy weight. They love to be social and interactive, so you need to do more than get a motorized toy for them to play with; they want to play with you, not just play.

Consider a teaser toy and commit to a 15-minute play session each day to wear your fur baby out. Ragdolls are also intelligent cats, and a new study shows cats like to play fetch, so you could give that a try too!

Common Health Concerns for Ragdoll Cats

Ragdolls, like any pure breed, have their slate of health issues. Many of them are related to being a large breed of cat.

First and foremost is weight. Ragdolls are prone to overeating and weight gain, especially if they don't get enough exercise. Obese cats suffer from a variety of health problems, and Ragdolls are no exception on that front. Make sure to measure out an appropriate portion of food for them, limit treats, and make sure to keep them active.

Ragdoll cats are also known to have sensitive stomachs and may require a special diet to prevent vomiting.

Ragdolls also frequently suffer from bladder stones, a painful crystallization of minerals in their bladder similar to kidney stones in humans. They're painful, and they can cause litter box problems, including urinating where they aren't supposed to, as well as frequent urinary tract infections.

Bladder stones can also cause obstructions, which is a life-threatening condition. Females are better able to pass small stones, while males are more likely to experience a urethral obstruction. If your kitty isn’t peeing, you need to head to the emergency vet.

To help combat bladder stones, make sure your Ragdoll gets plenty of fresh, clean water every day and talk to your vet to see if a special diet would help prevent stones from forming.

Another issue in Ragdolls is called hypertrophic cardiomyopathy or HCM. This is a condition where the walls of the heart thicken. It's the most commonly diagnosed cardiac disease in cats, according to Cornell University.

The thicker heart wall means less blood can fit in the heart at a time, reducing the efficiency of the heart and making it harder for blood to get where it needs to go. HCM is potentially a genetic disease, and some genetic screening can identify if your fur baby is at risk, but the illness can develop in any cat, with or without the genetic mutations present. There's no cure for HCM, only management.

The good news is, there is genetic testing available to detect the two variants responsible for the increase of HCM among the Ragdoll breed.

While not a common disease, several studies have shown that purebred cats are more likely to develop Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP). Another study went on to show Ragdolls are at significantly higher risk of developing FIP as compared to other purebred cats. If left untreated, this disease is fatal.

Pros and Cons of Ragdoll Cats

Ragdolls are also very playful and cuddly, but they aren't on the extremes of energy. They also aren't high-maintenance like some other large and long-coated breeds, and overall are pretty genetically healthy.

If there are any cons to adopting a Ragdoll, it's that they aren't hypoallergenic like Siberians, another large and long-haired breed. As a purebred cat, they can also be very expensive, especially if you're getting one from a popular and certified breeder. Certified breeders can charge as much as $2,500 for a purebred Ragdoll with popular and desirable coat colors.

That said, you can often find rescues in need of a home. Groups like the Ragdoll Rescue USA and the Specialty Purebred Cat Rescue commonly have Ragdolls up for adoption.

While we tend to keep our cats inside in the US, some countries firmly believe a cat should be indoor/outdoor. Because of their docile nature, Ragdolls need to be indoor only. They don’t have the street smarts to defend themselves against aggressive animals they may encounter outside.

Ragdoll Cat Fun Facts

We're all cat lovers here, so let's talk about some of the more fun facts about this special breed!

Did you know that all Ragdolls are born as white as the driven snow? It's true! Their different colorations and patterns don't start to come in until several weeks later when they start to be more distinct. By 12 weeks, you'll generally know what pattern you're getting, but the full depth of color might not be seen until they're half a year old. Mitted Ragdolls don't even have their full, distinct patterns until they're two years old!

Another cool fact about Ragdolls is that their eyes are typically a bright and vibrant blue. They're one of the few cat breeds where eye color is a distinguishing characteristic; though the depth of color can be on a spectrum, every single purebred Ragdoll has blue eyes.

Most Ragdolls have stark, darker colorations to contrast the white. Some, though, are rarer and equally as beautiful: the lilac Ragdolls with their faint, almost purple-gray, and the flame points with their mixture of orange in the color points. Both of these are beautiful, like all ragdolls, but they are rarer and more expensive when you find them.

Many dog lovers actually love Ragdolls because of their personalities. They're not the aloof, holier-than-thou cats some of us know and love; they're actually a lot more like dogs themselves. As I mentioned earlier, many even love to play fetch with their favorite toys!

Ragdolls are very slow to mature as well. In fact, they won’t reach their full color until they are three years old and can take up to four years to reach their full adult size. If you think your Ragdoll is big now, just wait!

Should You Adopt a Ragdoll?

Now we get to the real fun question: should you adopt a Ragdoll kitten?

The answer here depends a lot on you and what your situation is like. Ragdolls are excellent cats for just about anyone, but they're very cuddly and sociable, so if you live alone and spend a lot of time out of the house at work, you might not want to pick the breed.

One of the biggest downsides to Ragdolls is the price, so if you're not willing to pay the price for a purebred Ragdoll, consider trying to find one for adoption. You’d be saving a life allowing another kitty to be saved.

If you do opt to purchase a Ragdoll kitten, be sure to seek a reputable breeder and ask about the health history of their bloodline.

As long as you're prepared to give your fur baby the attention and care they need, and you're willing to handle a large, affectionate cat, a Ragdoll is an excellent choice. If you want something smaller, with shorter fur, a lower price point, you might want to look elsewhere.

Remember, not all Ragdolls will have the same temperament, and you won’t know their personality until they are adults. If you’re looking specifically for a snuggly lap cat, consider adopting a young adult that has matured and settled into their final temperament.

What do you think? Have you ever been the proud parent of a cuddly Ragdoll? I'd love to hear your stories, so tell me all about them (and post your pictures) in the comments below!

If you’re here because you’ve been given a firm or suspected FIP diagnosis, this post will give you a full understanding of what’s currently known about this terrible disease and what options you have for treatment.

Yes, I said treatment.

If your vet told you there is no treatment, they meant there is no FDA approved treatment, and we’ll get to that in a bit.

While this post will focus on educating you about the disease, I’m working on a post about my personal journey with my little Luca so you can read our first-hand experience.

If you’re a regular reader and here to learn, please share this knowledge with other cat parents so they can be familiar with this terrible disease. If you're reading this after receiving a diagnosis, know that there is a community standing by to support you.

Okay, let’s dig in.

What is FIP?

At its core, Feline Infectious Peritonitis or FIP is a disease caused by the mutation of the common, highly contagious feline enteric coronavirus (FECV). Before we dig into FIP, it’s helpful to understand how the virus that can cause this disease is transmitted.

Feline Enteric Coronavirus

FECV is an omnipresent virus that lives in the digestive tract of an infected cat and is shed through their feces. The virus is commonly passed to other cats through shared litter boxes and communal grooming.

Some cats with FECV will manage to clear the infection but are still at risk of becoming reinfected, while others will continue to carry the virus indefinitely and will continue to shed FECV in their stool.

Once infected, FECV usually presents as mild diarrhea, but an infected feline may also have vomiting or show signs of a respiratory infection. The good news is, most FECV infected cats will overcome their symptoms without any veterinary intervention.

It’s estimated that up to 90% of multi-cat households have been exposed to FECV.

You might be asking yourself, if there are so many FECV infections, and FIP comes from these infections, why have I never heard of it? The fact is most cats infected with FECV will never go on to develop the life-threatening disease known as FIP.

“In approximately 10 percent of cats infected with FeCV, one or more mutations of the virus can alter its biological behavior, resulting in white blood cells becoming infected with virus and spreading it throughout the cat’s body. When this occurs, the virus is referred to as the FIPV.” – Cornell College of Veterinary Medicine

In the illustration below, you can see that while many cats can be infected with FECV, only a portion of those will go on to have the virus mutate into FIPV, and even then, only a portion of those cats will develop FIP. Cats and kittens that remain carriers of FECV will go on to infect other cats.

If the cat is unable to clear the FIP virus (FIPV), it begins to infect their white blood cells leading to the disease known as FIP. Left untreated there is no chance of recovery.

History of FIP

While FIP may not be commonly known, that doesn’t mean it’s new. Jean Holzworth, DVM was one of the first to document the disease in 1963.

Even with decades of research, FIP remained an incurable disease. Diagnosis was a death sentence.

And while there is still an enormous number of questions left to answer, much of what we do know about FIP is thanks to the dedication of Dr. Niels Peterson and his life-long affinity to understand the disease.

Among other advances, Dr. Pedersen was the first to use an existing antiviral medication to successfully treat cats with FIP. His findings, published in 2018, gave hope to those with FIP infected cats.

Dr. Pedersen continues his research today along with his colleagues at UC Davis and researchers at other universities are taking up their own investigations.

There are currently two FIP clinical trials available to join.

For a complete history on FIP (1963 – 2022), check out this comprehensive review put together by UC Davis.

What are the Symptoms of FIP?

Here’s the most frustrating part of this disease, the symptoms can overlap with a bunch of other conditions, so it’s difficult to identify.

There are two main types of FIP wet (effusive) and dry (non-effusive), each with some more hallmark symptoms. There is also what can be considered a third form of FIP, which is a combination of the two. It’s also worth noting that one type can morph into the other.

Common Symptoms Of Both Wet and Dry FIP

While there are some symptoms that are more common to the specific type of FIP, there are five common symptoms that are seen across both.

These symptoms include:

• Lethargy
• Decreased appetite
• Enlarged lymph nodes
• Weight Loss
• Fever
• Unkempt coat

Wet FIP

If you search the web for “wet FIP” you’re going to find cats and kittens with enormous bellies full of fluid. It’s quite dramatic, but wet FIP won’t always show up in such an obvious fashion.

Fluid accumulates over time and collects in the abdomen or chest. Fluid in the chest is unlikely to be visible to the naked eye.

Common symptoms of wet FIP include:

• Anemia
• Jaundice
• Ascites - An enlarged abdomen filled with fluid
• Difficulty breathing
• Hyperglobulinemia and hypoalbuminemia

Dry FIP

As the name implies, dry FIP doesn’t have the excess fluid surrounding the organs. The symptoms can often be vague and tend to progress less rapidly than wet FIP.

Symptoms of dry FIP include:

• Anemia
• Diarrhea
• Granulomas in organs
• Hyperglobulinemia and hypoalbuminemia
• Neurological issues including, the inability or reluctance to jump, lameness, balance issues, poor litter box use, and seizures
• Eye issues including, uveitis, changes to the color of the iris, cloudiness, and/or blood in the eye

FIP Risk Factors

Since FIP mutates from the feline enteric coronavirus, multi-cat households, shelters, and catteries are all breeding grounds for FECV to spread. You can interpret this to mean your cat has likely already been exposed to FECV but is unlikely to develop FIP.

Several studies have shown multiple risk factors for developing FIP.

Age

A study in Australia that was published in 2012 found that of the 382 cases of confirmed FIP, 80% occurred in cats under the age of 2 years, and 50% of the cases were in kittens under the age of 7 months.

A 2014 study showed kittens older than 6 months showed an increased resistance to FIP. This is good news for if you have an adult cat.

All of this is to say, if you bring a new kitten into your home, it’s an important time to monitor their growth and development. While FIP can occur at any age, kittens are particularly susceptible.

Breed

Several studies have shown that pure bred cats are more susceptible to FIP. And certain breeds have a higher incidence than others.

“Abyssinians, Bengals, Birmans, Himalayans, Ragdolls and Rexes had a significantly higher risk” – Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery

If you decide to purchase one of these kittens, use a reputable breeder, and ask if they’ve had any cases of FIP in their kittens. If they say their queen has produced kittens that later went on to develop FIP, err on the side of caution and seek another breeder.

Sex

The same study found that there was no significant difference in the number of female versus male cats with FIP, but of these cats a significant number had not been neutered/spade.

This finding isn’t surprising given FIP is most commonly found in young kittens and it’s common practice to spay/neuter around 6 months of age.

Genetics

There is some belief that there may also be a genetic component that may make a kitty more susceptible to developing FIP.

“It is still unknown which exact genes harbor the mutation(s) leading to FIPV development.” - Diagnosis of Feline Infectious Peritonitis: A Review of the Current Literature

How is FIP Diagnosed?

Sadly, in most cases there is no one test that can definitively say your cat has FIP, but there are some tests that point to the disease.

Physical Examination & History

Armed with the symptoms you’ve been seeing at home, head to your vet for a physical exam. Your vet will perform an overall check looking for things such as enlarged lymph nodes, swelling in the belly, fever, neurological issues, eye changes, etc.

Tests

Your vet will likely want to start with some basic bloodwork to check for abnormal values including, but not limited to high serum proteins and anemia.

They can also use a blood sample to rule out FeLV, FIV, and toxoplasmosis, which can have symptom overlap with FIP.

Your vet may also want to perform an ultrasound to check for fluid in the belly or chest. This is a hallmark symptom of wet FIP. If fluid is found your vet will recommend aspiration to take a small sample of the fluid.

NOTE: If your cat has fluid in the belly, DO NOT let your vet fully drain the fluid if you’re considering treatment. If there is too much pressure, ask your vet to remove no more 25% of the fluid. Fluid in the chest should be completely drained.

Diagnosis is often a case of elimination and looking at your kitty’s symptoms and lab values as a whole. Your doctor may not be comfortable giving you a definitive diagnosis of FIP and depending on their experience, they may have trouble recognizing the disease.

What are the Treatment Options for FIP?

As of the end of 2023, there is still no FDA approved treatment option for FIP in cats, so vets will typically offer palliative care options or euthanasia.

There is a light in all this darkness thanks to Dr. Pedersen’s research, but let’s start with how your vet can help.

Palliative Care

In the event you’re not familiar with the term, palliative care is treatment that’s used to help alleviate symptoms of a disease, and it’s used most often in cases where a disease has no cure. The goal is to make the patient as comfortable as possible in the time they have left.

The only tools your vet has in their arsenal are anti-inflammatory medications and immunosuppressants. In combination these drugs may help to prolong your kitty’s life.

If your cat has wet FIP, your vet can also drain the fluid to allow your kitty to be more comfortable, however with the underlying disease remaining, the fluid will return.

In cases where a cat has severe anemia, a blood transfusion may be recommended.

While the above medications and procedures can help alleviate symptoms and may give your kitty a boost making them appear to be on the mend, the sad fact is the meds are doing nothing to address the underlying disease.

Palliative treatments will not save your kitty.

Anti-viral Treatment

A study conducted by Dr. Pedersen and colleagues at UC Davis (published in 2018) showed there was hope in GS-441524:

“In an experimental FIPV infection of cats, GS-441524 treatment caused a rapid reversal of disease signs and return to normality with as little as two weeks of treatment in 10/10 cats and with no apparent toxicity.”

With such promising results from the 2018 study, additional research was performed using GS-441524 and similar molecules to treat FIP in cats.

One such study published in 2021 showed a cure rate of 90% when using GS-441524 to treat FIP. Amazing right?!

Sadly, unless you live in the UK or Australia, your vet will not have access to this life-saving drug. GS-441524 metabolizes to Remdesivir (GS-5734) in the body.

Does the name Remdesivir sound familiar? It’s the drug that is provisionally approved to treat COVID-19 infections in humans.

Here’s the problem, the owner of the medicines, Gilead Sciences, doesn't seem to be onboard with allowing GS-441524 for veterinary use… at least not in the US.

“The fear was that performing the studies to secure FDA approval for GS-441524 in cats might hamper efforts to approve GS-5734 (now remdesivir) in humans because if studies using GS-441524 to treat cats had any adverse effects or undesirable results, this could influence the analysis of remdesivir for human use.” – American Animal Hospital Association

So how do we get access to this life-saving drug?

A group of volunteers looking to help save lives by connecting devastated pet parents with the medication they so desperately need.

How Do I Get Started with FIP Treatment?

First and foremost, always discuss any options with your vet. To get started with GS treatment, visit the FIP Warriors^® website or facebook group. There are volunteers working around the clock to connect you with the resources you’ll need to treat your kitty.

I spoke with Robin Kintz, the founder of FIP Warriors^®, and here's a message of hope she shared for all cat parents with newly diagnosed FIP cats and kittens:

“FIP is no longer a death sentence! With proper guidance and supportive veterinary care, 90% of FIP kitties can now be cured!” - Robin Kintz

You’ll get an estimate up front on what the cost will be for treatment, and you can buy the medication as you go, allowing you to spread the cost out over the course of treatment.

The FIP Warriors^® will connect you with a pet parent in your area that is treating their own kitty that will supply started meds and supplies.

Full disclosure, other than the wonderful and caring life-saving work FIP Warriors^® did for my Luca, I have no business relationship with or financial incentive to recommend this group.

What Can I Expect During GS Treatment for FIP?

There are two distinct phases of FIP treatment, on average each lasting 84 days. You’ll be assigned an FIP Warriors^® administrator that will guide you through the process from start to finish.

Your administrator will be a wealth of information having treated many FIP cats of their own and supported hundreds of pet parents through the years.

FIP Treatment Phases

The first 84 days of treatment is when you administer the GS medication. Many pet parents will start with an injectable medication and will continue with injections for all 84 days.

The dosage and brand are determined by the type of FIP, and the dose will increase as your kitty gains weight.

Injections are typically recommended to start because they are better absorbed through the subcutaneous injection rather than relying on the digestive tract, which may be compromised by the disease.

Some pet parents will be given the option to switch to pills further into treatment. Treatment with pills is more expensive, but typically much easier to administer.

Labs are typically recommended every 4 weeks during treatment to track progress.

Depending on the severity of the disease and how your kitty is responding to treatment, you may need to extend treatment past the minimum 84 days.

What you need to know for treating your cat at home.

A pet parent with a geriatric cat may have more experience and be better prepared for the requirements of at home treatment. This includes weighing your kitty, taking their temperature, giving them pills and injections, and in some cases subcutaneous fluids.

Every kitty is different and additional medications may be needed to support their recovery. It’s important to have a vet that will provide supportive care should you decide to begin treatment. While they won’t be able to advise you on the GS medication, they can provide supportive care for other symptoms your kitty is experiencing.

The GS medication itself is viscous, think pushing honey vs water through a syringe. It’s also very acidic, making it quite painful for many kitties to receive and if the medication leaks onto their skin it can result in sores.

While many parents do treatment alone, it tends to be much easier when you have an extra set of hands, one person to hold your kitty, one person to inject.

Treatment can be emotionally draining and there will be good days and bad. What helps parents continue with the process is the improvement they see in their kitty and the support they receive from other parents in the same situation.

If you’re familiar with the Kitten Lady, Hannah Shaw, she treated her cat Coco for FIP, and Coco is now cured! Check out this video where she talks about her experience:

FIP Observation Phase

This milestone begins when you’ve been given the green light to stop administering the GS medication.

During this period, you’ll watch your kitty to ensure none of their original symptoms return. You’ll monitor their weight, their activity level, their appetite, etc.

You’ll also have bloodwork checkpoints during the observation period.

If your kitty backslides and begins to show symptoms, you’ll begin treating with the GS medication again, oftentimes at a higher dosage. If the observation period is uneventful, your kitty will be considered cured.

Coping with an FIP Diagnosis

You may have left your vet’s office being told your kitty has a terminal illness and euthanasia is your only option. Or perhaps your vet puts their veterinary license at risk by telling you about a treatment plan that you’ll have to pursue on your own. Either way, you’re leaving their office gutted and scared for your fur baby. I get it.

Maybe you are like me, waiting for additional labs to come back desperately hoping there is some other cause of your cat’s symptoms, but still diving into FIP research to understand what the diagnosis might really mean.

One thing I can confidently tell you is the FIP Warriors^® are a community that will support you whether you decide to try treatment or not. They will answer all of your questions, encourage you when you are down, and will share their vast experience to help you through the process.

Veterinary Treatment for FIP Has Arrived in the US

Did you hear that? Celebratory cries are heard throughout the US as we finally have a treatment for FIP available through your vet! Beginning in June 2024 your vet will now be able to prescribe GS medication if your cat is diagnosed with FIP. It's worth noting this drug is still not yet approved by the FDA, but as of the writing of this update they have no plans to seek enforcement and a formal review is underway.

The vet prescribed GS therapy is only available in an oral tablet. This is a much easier option for pet parents to administer, and is equal efficacy-wise to the injection options. With that said, pills do have a limitation. The gut has be be functioning well to absorb the medication. For kitties with gastrointestinal involvement pills tend to pass through quickly preventing full absorption of the live saving medication. For a kitty that has a late diagnosis or problems absorbing the pill, injections might be the only solution to get enough medication into your kitty's system - at least in the short-term. Please talk to your vet if you have concerns about absorption and consider reaching out to the FIP Warriors^® for advice on your kitty's specific situation.

FIP Frequently Asked Questions

Is FIP Contagious?

No, FIP is not contagious. There is often confusion around this topic because the virus (FECV) that has the potential to mutate into the FIP virus is highly contagious.

Do I need to separate my other cats from my FIP cat?

No. Odds are your other kitties have already been infected with FECV, but that does not mean they will go on to develop FIP.

Is GS Treatment Expensive?

Yes, it is. On a positive note, many cat parents create fundraisers to help with the cost, and in a community facing the same fight, small donations add up to make a significant difference.

How do I get the medication to treat my cat with FIP?

Contact FIP Warriors^® at https://fipwarriors.com/ or on their facebook page to connect with volunteers that will connect you with the resources you’ll need for treatment.

Why do some websites say they can provide medication cheaper?

Sadly, there are people in this world that are looking to take advantage of others. These people often try to pass off fake medications or use medications from sellers that are not reputable. Ensuring your kitty gets enough medication is imperative to their success. The FIP Warriors^® do batch testing to ensure the brands they use are of the highest quality available. Do not trust anyone that guarantees a cure. While GS treatment has a high success rate, it does not cure every cat.

Where can I learn more about FIP?

sockFIP.org is a non-profit organization that consolidates a wealth of research information related to FIP. You can learn more about research that is taking place globally to better understand this horrible disease.

Have you ever had a cat or kitten diagnosed with FIP? If so, what type, wet/dry? What treatment method(s) if any did you try? Share the story of your warrior in the comments below. While we love stories with happy outcomes, we also know that’s not the ending to every story. Don’t let that stop you from honoring your warrior.

But did you know that cats can have allergies, too?

It's true. Pretty much any living thing can have allergies, but what are they, and what allergies can cats have? After all, if your fur baby is having allergic reactions, you want to do what you can to minimize them so they don't suffer.

What Are Allergies?

Let’s start off with the basics, in the truest sense of the word, allergies are symptoms resulting from an immune response.

Complex, multi-cellular living things have immune systems. The immune system is a complex set of tiny processes in the body that help protect it from outside invaders. It's purpose is to help protect you against things like viruses, bacteria, and fungal infections, things that are also alive and trying to invade and use your body as a breeding ground to grow their own colonies.

When those nasties get a foothold, you get sick. Whether it's a cold, the flu, COVID-19, a rash, or any other kind of infection, it's a case where the immune system hasn't been able to fight off the invader. Usually, the immune system is hard at work fighting it off, and once it learns how, you'll recover from the illness. Sometimes, you need assistance from antibiotics or other medications.

What happens when the immune system identifies something as an invader when it's really harmless, though?

For example, dust mites, pet dander, grass pollen, and even things like bee sting venom and peanuts can all trigger an immune response.

"Allergens are foreign proteins that the body's immune system tries to remove. Examples of allergens common in humans are pollens, dust, molds, and pet hair." - VCA.

That's right; it's an allergy. An allergy is simply the body trying to use the immune system to fight off something that isn't really a danger and isn’t fightable in the traditional immune sense. So, you may get some of the symptoms of getting sick without the "getting sick" part.

The term allergy is often used interchangeably with the word sensitivity, but they aren’t actually one and the same. While they both may produce the same symptoms (we’ll get into these in a bit), a sensitivity does not involve an immune response. Sensitivities are an irritant and usually have more mild symptoms and are not life threatening.

Are Allergies Common in Cats?

Actually, yes! Allergies are one of the most common medical conditions to affect cats.

Sure, cats can get sick, get cancer, and have all sorts of terrible things happen to them, but allergies are simply so common, with so many different possible things they can be exposed to that can trigger them.

Allergies can present in a few different ways, and there are four main groups of allergies that can affect cats.

What do Allergies in Cats Look Like?

Generally, allergies will show up in one of three ways. Different kinds of allergies can express differently, so you can get some idea of what kind of allergy your cat is suffering from based on what kind of symptoms they're having.

The three kinds of allergic reactions are:

• Dermatologic. That is, skin reactions. Itchy, red patches, with swollen skin beneath, flaking skin, and occasionally something more extreme, like hives, can be a sign of an allergic reaction. This can be localized to just a small area, or it can cover large patches of the body or even be a full-body reaction for the most unfortunate feline friends of ours.
• Digestive. If your fur baby eats something that triggers a reaction in them, it can range anywhere from mild to severe. Mild reactions are mostly limited to soft stool and those nasty, room-clearing kitty farts (though those are more of a dog thing in general). Meanwhile, more severe reactions can include diarrhea and vomiting. If left untreated, it can also lead to secondary problems like dehydration and malnutrition.
• Respiratory. All of those irritating symptoms we get when we have seasonal allergies are the same sorts of things cats can get. Sniffles, sneezing, congestion, coughing, wheezing, runny nose, and itchy and watery eyes are all common symptoms of common allergies. In the case of something more severe, the windpipe can swell up and make breathing difficult or even impossible; that's when you need to bring your fur baby in for immediate medical treatment.

Usually, but not always, symptoms are going to be limited to one of these three groups. Sometimes, they can overlap a bit, though; for example, an insect bite allergy can cause skin reactions, but a bad enough reaction can also lead to respiratory distress. That's kind of how bee sting allergies work in people; the site of the sting is a reaction, but so too is respiratory distress and shock.

What Are the Four Types of Allergies in Cats?

While some vets may break the types of allergies into more refined groups, we’re going to stick with four main categories.

There can be some overlap between them in terms of symptoms, and severity varies wildly between different individual cats (and even throughout a cat's life), but they can broadly be broken down into these four groups:

• Flea allergies. Not your typical flea bite, but an overreaction to a bite.
• Food allergies. These are allergies related to something your fur baby is eating, perhaps only one ingredient in their food.
• Atopic Dermatitis. This is a skin reaction to environmental allergens, like dust mites. It's fairly common and one of the more complex kinds of allergies to deal with.
• Contact allergies. These are fairly similar to atopic dermatitis, though the symptoms are typically more mild and the treatment options are different.

Let's break them down individually!

What Do I Need to Know About Flea Allergies?

Flea bites are almost always very minor. Think of it like a mosquito for you; when one bites you, you get an annoying little welt that itches, but goes away on its own in a day or two, and that's pretty much it. Flea bites are the same way for most cats: itchy and irritating, but minor and will go away on their own even without treatment, that is, as long as the fleas themselves don't stick around.

As a side note, this is why you should always make sure your fur baby is up to date with their flea medications. Flea meds alter your kitty's body chemistry to make it inhospitable for fleas to live, so while they can still show up and bite, they won't linger. You can read a lot more about it here in my guide to cat flea medications.

Flea allergies are worse. When a flea bites, it injects a bit of saliva to feed without disturbance. This itches, but in a cat with flea allergies, one bite can cause a significant response.

“All cats can be affected to some extent by flea bites, but an allergic cat will react with disproportionate severity. Where it would take dozens of flea bites to significantly harm a normal cat’s skin, the same amount of damage to the skin of an allergic will result from just a few bites.” - William Miller Jr., Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine

Symptoms of flea allergies include:

• Skin bumps (known as miliary dermatitis)
• Itching
• Scratching
• Chewing of the skin
• Sores and scabs
• Presence of fleas, flea eggs, or flea dirt
• Secondary infections

What Do I Need to Know About Food Allergies in Cats?

Remember earlier when we talked about the difference between an allergy and a sensitivity? Food allergies are the perfect place to dig into this difference in more detail.

There are differing positions on the prevalence of food allergies in cats.

Cornell Feline Health Center, among others argue food allergies are the “thirst most common type of feline allergy.”

However, a study released in 2018, conducted by Banfield Animal Hospital looked at 2.5 million dogs and 500,000 cats and it showed food allergies in cats and dogs aren’t quite as prevalent as many people think.

“Food allergies affect just 0.2 percent of dogs and 0.1 percent of cats” – American Veterinary Medical Association

While earlier than the Banfield study, a prior study in 2006 ‘Food allergy in dogs and cats: a review’ found:

“The exact prevalence of FA [food allergies] in dogs and cats remains unknown.”

Seems like the jury is still out on this one.

The gap between these perspectives may be related to the grouping of food allergies, sensitivities, and intolerances, with the basic difference being the immune system is involved in one, but not the others.

For the sake of this post, we’re going to group all three issues together as many of the symptoms overlap, and ultimately have a similar resolution, though getting there will vary.

Food allergies are particularly tricky because it's hard to tell what your fur baby is allergic to in the first place. Tracking down what, specifically, is causing the allergic reaction is very important so you can avoid it in the future.

Some of the most common cat food allergies are related to the protein in their diet and include beef, chicken, and fish. Bear in mind any ingredient could potentially be a trigger, preservatives, gums, grains, etc.

Symptoms of Food Allergies and Intolerances

Severity of symptoms can vary, and may include some or all of the following:

• Red skin
• Fluid filled bumps on the skin (often on the head and neck)
• Itching
• Scratching
• Flakey skin
• Loss of hair
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Frequent visits to the litter box
• Gas
• Weight loss

If your vet suspects a food allergy is at play, they may recommend an "elimination diet," where you restrict what your fur baby can.

Elimination diets are tricky:

"Testing is conducted by feeding an elimination or hypoallergenic diet. This means a diet in which the ingredients have not previously been fed to the cat (e.g., duck, rabbit, venison). Because it takes at least eight weeks for all other food products to be removed from the body, the cat must eat the special diet exclusively for a minimum of eight to twelve weeks.

Unless the diet is fed exclusively, the test is meaningless. This means absolutely no treats, other foods, people foods, or even flavored medications during this trial. This cannot be overemphasized. Even accidentally providing a tiny amount of the offending protein can invalidate the test." – VCA.

If symptoms resolve on the hypoallergic diet, a food allergy is likely the case. To confirm, your vet may ask you to reintroduce their old food to see if symptoms return.

What Do I Need to Know About Atopic Dermatitis in Cats?

Atopic dermatitis is a skin irritation caused by something in the environment.

Often, these allergies are seasonal because they're related either to the life cycle of something like a dust mite or, more often, to the pollen of a plant that only flowers during specific times of the year.

Symptoms of atopic dermatitis are generally limited to the skin and can include:

• Redness of the skin
• Itching
• Scratching
• Scabs
• Excessive Licking
• Fur Loss
• Ear Infections

There are two types of allergy tests that can be done on your cat, intradermal allergy testing (IDAT) and radioallergosorbent testing (RAST).

The RAST test is pretty straight forward, a blood sample is taken by your vet and sent to a lab for review. While affordable, it’s not very reliable, though it could be a starting point for diagnosis.

A more accurate test is the IDAT, where small amounts of potential allergens are injected and then observed for a response. This test is more expensive and may require a visit to a specialist.

There is also serologic testing (RAST), which is done with your cat’s blood. This testing tends to be less reliable, but it could be a starting point for diagnosis.

A 2019 study has shown hair and saliva tests are not accurate allergen tests.

What Do I Need to Know About Contact Allergies in Cats?

Contact allergies are the least common allergy in cats and are a kind of dermatitis that isn't atopic; that is, it has a defined, specific cause. It can be a reaction to a shampoo, or to a flea collar, or to natural fibers like wool. It can also be something natural like poison ivy.

Symptoms of a contact allergy will be seen just at the location of “contact” and include:

• Redness
• Itching
• Bumps

These symptoms are generally minor, and will resolve once the source of the reaction is removed.

Cats can also be sensitive to plastic. That “dirt” on your cat’s chin is not actually dirt, but feline acne. Plastic is very porous and a great breeding ground for bacteria.

If your cat has little back specs on their chin, the first thing you should do is swap out any plastic bowls for stainless steel, glass, or ceramic.

What Do I Need to Know About Asthma in Cats?

A post about cat allergies deserves a section on feline asthma. While it’s estimated only 1% of cats living in the US suffer from asthma, it is believed to be triggered by an allergen.

Asthma is when the airways to the lungs become narrowed due to inflammation, making it harder for your cat to breathe.

Symptoms of asthma include:

• Open mouth breathing
• Wheezing or coughing
• Increased respiratory rate

Asthma attacks can range from mild to severe, and it is incurable.

Diagnosing asthma can take several tests to rule out other causes of labored breathing. Your vet will start with a physical exam, followed by bloodwork, and may order an x-ray to get a better look at your cats lungs.

What Can I Give My Cat for Allergies?

The first challenge is identifying the cause of the allergy, but some common treatment options include OTC antihistamines, an oatmeal bath, fish oil supplement, corticosteroids, and topical prescription medications.

Flea Allergies

If your cat has a flea allergy, monthly preventative treatments are a must, even if they are indoor only.

You’ll also want to ensure you’ve thoroughly cleaned your home if fleas have been present.

If your kitty is currently suffering from an acute severe reaction to flea bites, talk to your vet about medications that may be helpful.

Food Allergies

A strict diet is the only solution for a cat with food allergies. This may include feeding a prescription diet or switching to a different brand of food that doesn’t include any ingredients your cat is allergic to.

If you have multiple cats in your household and feed them different foods, it’s important to ensure your allergic kitty isn’t sampling any of the other food or symptoms are likely to return.

You’ll also need to be aware of reactions after treats or supplements. Symptoms may not appear immediately, so it can be difficult to identify the new offender, so make a note if you offer any special treats so you’ll remember down the line if symptoms show up.

If your kitty got into something they shouldn’t and has an acute bout of symptoms, talk to your vet about medications to get them over the hump, this may include something to stop vomiting or diarrhea, and/or an antihistamine for skin reactions.

Atopic Dermatitis

If your cat is allergies to environmental allergens, keeping them indoors can reduce their exposure. Doing more regular cleaning can help with indoor allergens.

You may also consider giving your kitty a fish oil supplement. The omega-3 fatty acids in the oil are anti-inflammatory and can help with skin allergies.

Because some cats with atopic dermatitis may also have a food allergen, your vet may recommend a hypoallergenic diet.

There are also a few medical options to help with atopic dermatitis and your vet will help you decide what’s best for your cat.

Your vet may start with prednisolone, which is generally well tolerated and provides quick results. Antihistamines may also be an option.

For more severe cases immunotherapy may be recommended. This treatment is regular injections or sublingual drops. Yep, just like humans with several allergies, cats can get allergy shots too! This treatment can take months to work, so supportive therapy for symptoms may also be needed.

There are also immune-modulating medications that suppress the overreaction of the immune system. These medications can make your cat more susceptible to infections and there are potential side effects, so you’ll have to weigh the benefits and risks.

Contact Allergies

Addressing contact allergies is fairly simple, remove access to the things your cat is allergic to. The challenge is first identifying the offending substance.

To help identify the allergen, look for the areas of the body that are showing an allergic reaction. Is it just around the neck? Do they wear a flea collar, easy fix. If you suspect bedding or toys might be the offender, remove to determine if the symptoms resolve.

When it comes to cleaning products, switch to pet safe brands and always remove your fur baby from the area while cleaning is taking place.

Asthma

The treatment of choice is usually an inhaled corticosteroid, just like you’ve seen used in humans, though the device doesn’t go in the mouth, but over your kitty’s face.

If your cat suffers acute bouts of asthma, try to identify the trigger. Could it be a perfume you only use occasionally? An air freshener? Perhaps a plug in or scented litter? If you’re able to identify an allergen, you can potentially reduce the frequency of attacks.

How Dangerous are Allergies in Cats?

Most of the time, allergies range from mild to moderate in severity for cats. Generalized itching is irritating and can stress your fur baby out, but it's not life-threatening unless they scratch holes in themselves and get an infection.

In rare instances, allergies can be more severe. Whenever they cause bleeding, ulcers, sores, or infections, and any time they inhibit breathing, you should bring your fur baby to the vet.

Luckily, allergies in cats are relatively well understood, and the treatments, particularly emergency treatments, are readily available. Once they pull through, you can figure out what they were allergic to and how to get rid of it from your environment for a safe, happy kitty.

Does your kitty have allergies? If so, what kind of allergy do they have, how did you identify the allergen, and what do you do to help them manage it? I'd love to hear all your stories about your fur babies, so be sure to leave those in the comments section down below!

Nobody likes to see their fur baby in pain or sick, and if aspirin helps us when we’re ailing, surely it would help them, too, right?

In today’s blog post, I go an inch wide and a mile deep to discuss aspirin for dogs. From the safety of aspirin for dogs to the risks, to safe aspirin alternatives, to holistic pain management options for your dog.

As always, if you are looking for research-backed dog care guides you can actually trust, feel free to visit my blog and search by topic. I’m sure you'll learn a thing or two that will improve your dog’s life.

When it comes to giving dogs aspirin, the truth is perhaps a bit more complicated than you might think, so read on to learn everything there is to know about aspirin for dogs.

First Things First: What is Aspirin?

Aspirin is a type of drug intended for human consumption. It’s used to treat pain, inflammation, or arthritis and it’s part of a group of drugs known as nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID).

At toe beans, we are fanatics of pet parent education. We believe educated and well-informed pet parents make better decisions on behalf of their beloved fur children.

And so, as a general rule of thumb, before you administer anything to your dog, it is always wise to educate yourself about it.

Here's what VCA animal hospitals says about aspirin for pets:

“It’s use in cats, dogs, and small mammals to treat excessive clotting, inflammation, fever, and pain is 'off label' or 'extra label'. Many drugs are commonly prescribed for off label use in veterinary medicine. In these instances, follow your veterinarian’s directions and cautions very carefully as their directions may be significantly different from those on the label.” – VCA Animal Hospitals

Now the question you might have at this point is, what is extra label drug use aka ELDU? Here is what the American Veterinary Medical Association says about it:

“ELDU describes the use of an approved drug in a manner that is not in accordance with the approved labeling, yet meets the conditions set forth by the Animal Medicinal Drug Use Clarification Act of 1994 (AMDUCA) and U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulations.” – American Veterinary Medical Association

Although the FDA has approved some NSAIDS for veterinary medicine (such as Carprofen, Deracoxib, Firocoxib and a few others), aspirin is not one of them.

Is Aspirin Safe for Dogs?

Yes, but also no. Aspirin can be safe for some dogs in the right dosage, in moderation, and of course so long as it is used under the supervision of a veterinarian.

You should always talk to your vet before giving your pup a non-prescribed medication. Every pup is an individual, so their medical background and currently prescribed medications will need to be taken into consideration.

So, while it’s safe when used properly, if your dog knocked over a bottle and ate the pills, you'll need to rush them to the emergency vet.

Keep in mind that aspirin or acetylsalicylic acid (ASA) is also an ingredient in other products such as topical medications, make-up and even shampoo. So, if you get regular puppy kisses, they could be ingesting small amounts on a regular basis.

As with any drug, the key is dosage. Taking too much aspirin can be deadly.

Many vets recommend using one baby aspirin for every 10 pounds of body weight, or one adult aspirin for every 40 pounds of weight, every 12 hours.

If you plan to give your dog aspirin, make sure to keep track of how much you give them and when, so you don't give them too much.

If you suspect you've given your pet too much aspirin, contact your veterinary or pet poison helpline immediately at 1-800-213-6680.

Is Aspirin Approved for Dogs?

No. The FDA has not evaluated aspirin as a medication for dogs.

Additionally, and perhaps most importantly, there are no guarantees of safety when administering human aspirin to your dog.

Nevertheless, as noted above, while aspirin itself has not been approved for dogs, there are several other NSAIDs that have been reviewed and FDA approved for use in dogs.

Keep in mind though, they all require a veterinarian prescription. You should stay away from over-the-counter NSAIDS for pets.

Here's the official FDA’s position about the use of OTC NSAIDS for pets:

“No over-the-counter NSAIDs for dogs and cats are FDA-approved. Any NSAID marketed for dogs or cats online or in a pet store without the need for a prescription from a veterinarian is an unapproved animal drug, meaning FDA has not reviewed information about the drug. An unapproved animal drug may not meet the agency’s strict standards for safety and effectiveness and may not be properly manufactured or properly labeled.” - FDA

You may have heard of many people that have successfully given aspirin to dogs who may also have even had their vets prescribe it. You may also have run into “canine aspirin” online.

Emily Bebout, a veterinary information specialist at the pet poison helpline warns about the use of OTC NSAIDs for your dog.

"I completely understand why owner’s give dogs OTC medication. Your vet is closed, and your dog is in pain. We all hate to see our furry companions in pain and want to do whatever we can to ease their suffering. However, giving medications that are not prescribed can cause more harm than good." | Pet Poison Helpline

Very important to emphasize here, once again, is that aspirin is not technically studied and approved as a canine medication.

If you do give your pup aspirin, make a sure that it’s pure aspirin and doesn’t have other ingredients.

Other pain relievers, like naproxen or ibuprofen, are much more dangerous to dogs than they are to people and can be very damaging or even deadly.

Not all pain relievers are created equal, so always make sure you know what‘s in the medicine you give to your fur baby.

What Are the Benefits of Giving a Dog Aspirin?

While not FDA approved for your dog, and as long as it is used under veterinarian supervision, aspirin does a few things to the body, all through one mechanism.I mentioned above that aspirin is a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory medication, or NSAID.

It blocks something called prostaglandins, which are the chemicals that convey pain sensations to the brain from the body.

The medication can temporarily relieve pain, reduce inflammation caused by pain responses, and can reduce fever and the risk of blood clots.

• Pain relief is the leading reason to give a dog aspirin. It's one of the more effective low-key pain relievers for humans we've developed as a society, with few side effects compared to something like opioids, and it's relatively safe enough to be sold over the counter. Leg injuries, osteoarthritis, and dental issues are all common sources of pain that aspirin might help treat.
• Inflammation and fever can both be addressed by NSAIDs in general. Aspirin might not be the best NSAID to give your pup, but if you're in a tricky situation and can't get a prescription for several days, it might suffice in a pinch. You might consider taking your dog to the emergency vet if they're in that sticky a situation, though.
• Blood clot risk. Sometimes your dog might have a condition or be on other medications (or after a surgery) where blood clotting can be a real risk. In these cases, a bit of aspirin can be a good way to help thin out the blood and minimize the chances of a dangerous clot. This will generally come as a prescription from your vet, though. Note that you shouldn't give your dog aspirin before a surgery, to minimize bleeding risk during the procedure.
• A few new studies have been performed that seem to indicate aspirin might be able to help cut back on eye problems in diabetic dogs. More studies will need to be conducted to figure out how and when to administer aspirin for this effect and if it's worth the potential risks, however.

Is Aspirin Risky for Dogs?

Yes. Aspirin can cause a number of different side effects.

“There are specific times when your veterinarian may prescribe aspirin for your pet. Your veterinarian will recommend an appropriate dose and formulation for your pet and their medical condition. If your pet is in pain, do not give aspirin. Contact your veterinarian. Your veterinarian can recommend a safer and more effective pain reliever made specifically for pets.” - Petmd.com

If your dog is allergic to aspirin, it can cause allergic reactions that can be highly damaging or deadly.

Too much aspirin, or aspirin too often for too long, can also lead to problems. These problems can include asthma, ulcers in the digestive tract, kidney issues, liver damage, and complications from internal bleeding.

Aspirin can also inhibit the body's ability to heal, both directly and indirectly. Inflammation and fever, while unpleasant and potentially dangerous, are part of the immune system's response to injury and infection. By tamping them down, it makes it harder for the body to fight off invaders. In extreme cases, it can even extend the duration of an illness.

Pain relievers also make it more likely to re-injure an injury that is in the process of healing. Pain is a signal that something is wrong, after all. If your dog strains a leg muscle and you give them pain relievers, they might be too active for their injury and could further exacerbate the injury.

Too much aspirin at once can also lead to aspirin toxicity. This can also occur if you give them aspirin regularly for too long. Symptoms to watch out for include lethargy, fever, vomiting, diarrhea, blood in stool, difficulty walking, and a loss of appetite.

Read More Dog Wellness Guides

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How Much Aspirin Should You Give Your Dog?

As little as you can.

There are relatively little sources of guidance on how much aspirin to give a dog. Considerations must be made for the breed, weight, and size of your dog, as well as the reason why you're giving them the pain reliever in the first place.

For safety reasons, you’ll want to talk to your vet and have them do the calculations.

Again, we don’t recommend giving aspirin to your dog, but if you are in a desperate position and you feel you must, the Merck Manual recommends a range of between 10 and 40 milligrams per kilogram of dog weight.

This is for a generally healthy dog, though, so various conditions and health situations can adjust this number.

Don't just wing it!

Remember, aspirin can be very dangerous to dogs if it's administered improperly.

When is it Okay to Give a Dog Aspirin?

Rarely.

The three general reasons why you might give your dog aspirin include:

• A musculoskeletal injury, like a sprain, strain, or torn muscle, ligament, tendon, or cracked or broken bone. These sources of pain can be hindering to a pup, and relieving some of the burden can make both them and you feel better. Obviously if you suspect a serious injury, a vet visit should always be a top priority. Plus, your pup may need stronger drugs to control their pain.
• An illness that involves a fever and inflammation. Aspirin can help reduce these symptoms while they get over the illness.
• Osteoarthritis from aging. Old dogs don't have to worry as much about long-term side effects, and a bit of aspirin can help them maintain mobility and a higher quality of life as they reach their golden years.

I know, I’m starting to sound like a broken record, but it's worth repeating, you generally should not give your dog aspirin without the advice of a vet telling you to do so.

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They may have alternative ways you can reduce pain and symptoms in your fur baby, and you need their advice on dosage and frequency.

At an annual check-up consider asking your vet some ‘what if’ questions to see if aspirin would be an appropriate option.

How Long Can You Keep Giving Your Dog Aspirin?

As limited of a time span as possible.

Aspirin doesn't entirely flush out of the system right away, so the longer you keep administering the medication, the more small amounts of it can build up until it eventually reaches a point of causing side effects and problems.

With any medication the goal is to use it for a short of time as possible to reach it’s intended purpose.

If your pup has long-term pain such as osteoarthritis, there are many treatment options available, so discuss your concerns with your vet to determine the best treatment plan to ensure the best quality of life.

Can Aspirin Interact with Other Medications?

Yes. Aspirin can interact with other medications, which is why you shouldn’t administer it without discussing it with your vet.

Aspirin can make other medications either more effective or less effective.

ACE inhibitors, which are used for blood pressure regulation, can double up on anticoagulant effects and cause bleeding problems when taken with aspirin.

Heparin and other anticoagulants have a similar effect. When your dog is taking multiple medications with the same effect, it can go out of control.

Other medications you shouldn't combine with aspirin include:

• SSRIs and antidepressants.
• Blood glucose-lowering medications.
• Phenobarbital.
• Steroids like prednisone.
• Spironolactone.
• Calcium channel blockers.
• Furosemide.

Please note this isn't necessarily a complete list, either.

Is Human Aspirin Okay for Dogs?

Not usually, no.

Aspirin can damage your dog’s stomach lining. Aspirin made for people has a coating on it to help protect it while the stomach does its work.

The coating is designed to dissolve as it passes through the stomach, and the medication starts to enter the bloodstream once it passes through the stomach and into the intestines.

Unfortunately, your dog generally can't digest that coating at all. If they eat the pill whole, they won't get the medication entering their system much, if at all.

Alternatively, your vet may recommend buying baby aspirin or grinding up aspirin and adding it to food or a treat. You need to be careful of dosage no matter the avenue of administration.

Are There Alternatives to Aspirin for Dogs?

Yes.

To recap, aspirin is an NSAID, and there are many other NSAIDs out there, but most human NSAIDs are more dangerous for dogs.

The good news is there are re are a handful of NSAIDs made specifically for dogs that you can try.

As noted above, these include Carprofen, Deracoxib, Firocoxib, Meloxicam, and Grapiprant. You can find these under brand names like Novox, Rimadyl, Deramaxx, Previcox, Metacam, and Galliprant. These medications will require a prescription from your veterinarian.

There are also other kinds of medications you can give to your dog for pain-relieving effects.

Gabapentin is a painkiller used in both humans and animals and is a good option for nerve pain. It usually causes sleepiness, at least for the first few days.

Tramadol is another possible pain reliever, like a mild opioid. It has a bunch of digestive side effects though, like vomiting and constipation, but it can be an effective option in some situations.

Another option is to look into supplements and holistic medications. Some people swear by turmeric for dogs, though its therapeutic effects are much less than what you get from a real medication.

CBD can be a good option, too, though it, of course, has caveats as well. You can read all about CBD for dogs here.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask me! I'm not a vet, but I'm a lover of all four-legged friends, and I do my best to give you all the best information I can. You can drop any potential questions you may have in the comments section down below!

That means, at the very least, knowing what's normal so we can know what's abnormal, what it means, and whether or not it's an emergency that needs immediate attention.

I know what you might be thinking: define normal, right?

Any cat parent knows that for many cat-related things, there may not be a standard for normal. For example, what may be normal for one cat may be abnormal for another. Even in multi-cat households.

However, when it comes to health, there are definitely some aspects that have standards. Especially when it comes down to the heart, the most vital organ. This week I will discuss everything related to your cat’s normal resting heartbeat.

Do you know what the normal heart rate for our furry feline friends should be? Or, do you have a clue of what it means if it's outside of the normal range?

Routine at-home physical examinations can help cat parents stay on top of their cats’ heart health. A normal resting heart rate is a good indicator of your cat’s overall health.

Learning about your cat’s heartbeat, especially if you have an aging cat or one with heart disease, can give you a head start on recognizing an issue. This is a topic I hold close to my heart as my two angel cats Sosa and Randa suffered from heart disease late in their lives.

At home routine physical examinations can help cat parents stay on top of their cats’ heart health. Let's dig into some of the most frequently asked questions about this and other feline vitals.

What Is the Normal Heart Rate for a Cat?

A normal resting heart rate for a cat is between 120 to 140 beats per minute (bpm).

You may find conflicting information all over the internet concerning this range. For example, as you will see in the demonstration video below, veterinarian Lindsay Butzer (DVM) discusses the normal heart for a cat as being 180 - 200 beats per minute. We decided to follow the information provided by Merck Veterinary Manual.

Generally, the average heart rate for a cat is much higher than a human heart rate. For reference, the normal resting heart rate for a human is generally between 60 and 100 bpm.

Fun fact: Our doggy friends have a resting heart rate more similar to ours, 70 to 120 bpm.

Cats that are sleepy, cozy, and dozing in a comfortable sunbeam are likely to be on the lower end of the scale. Conversely, cats that are angry, scared, anxious, or have just gotten done playing are likely to be on the higher side of the scale.

How Can You Check Your Cat's Heart Rate?

It’s a good rule of thumb to check your kitty’s heart rate while they are resting to get a consistent reading. There are several ways you can check your cat's heart rate.

Option 1: Put your hand on their chest, just behind their front right leg. This is roughly where the heart is on a cat, so you should be able to feel the beating of their cute little heart. Depending on how active or squirmy your cat is, you may only be able to count beats for around 15 seconds; if they're calm and restful, you can count for a full minute. If you can only count for 15 seconds, of course, multiply the number by four to get something close to their heart rate.

Option 2: In the same location as noted above, put your ear to their chest so you can hear their heart beating. This only works with cats that don't mind both you being up close and personal to their underside and cats that aren't likely to squirm away when you put your face up to theirs. Be mindful that you likely won’t be able to heart a heart beat if you kitty is purring.

Option 3: You can also take their pulse on their primary leg artery, the femoral artery. You can find this vein on the inside of the hind legs, up near where the leg meets the body. Feel around and gently press, looking for the place where you can feel their pulse. Once you locate it, count beats for 15-60 seconds and adjust accordingly.

Option 4: Buy an inexpensive stethoscope. I’ll admit, I bought one when my now angel Sosa was 18 going on 19. I used it to better hear her heartbeat and to keep an ear on her breathing.

In my opinion, this is the easiest and most effective option of all. If you go this route, make sure you get a stethoscope made specifically for pets, then bring it to the next vet appointment to ask your vet how to properly use it.

Check out this 30-second demonstration on how to check your cat’s heartbeat by Dr. Lindsay Butzer DVM:

In all cases, it can be helpful to keep a stopwatch or other timer on hand.

You may also find it useful to multitask by petting your fur baby with your other hand so they stay calm and allow you to feel for their heartbeat. Obviously, some cats don't like being touched so intimately, so this can be tricky.

How Often Should You Check Your Cat's Resting Heart Rate?

This can depend on the reason why you're checking.

Under normal day-to-day life, it can be a good idea to check your cat's heart rate at least weekly though for the average person, this is an unlikely expectation. Keeping a log of heart rate and other vitals can be a good idea to help diagnose any issues and when they start.

Some vitals are harder to take than others, so taking the heartbeat can be done more frequently, even several times a day. If you have a cat that doesn't mind being touched, it's a simple matter to take a heart rate measurement periodically and note whether or not it's outside the normal range.

If you're putting your cat on a new medication, or if you think they're stressed, injured, or sick, you might want to take their vital signs more often. This way, you can notice quickly if they're having trouble or if they're experiencing side effects.

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Remember, too, that a "normal" range is contextual. Consider the following for example, if your cat has been running back and forth for half an hour, but their heart rate is still in the 140s, it could be a sign of something wrong.

Similarly, if they've been napping and you check their pulse only to find it on the high end of the range, they could have issues you need to deal with.

Neither one is cause for an emergency vet trip, but it can be worth calling your vet to mention it and schedule an appointment if they think it's necessary.

If your cat is averse to being handled in a way that allows you to check their pulse, you'll likely want to work on it over time.

Be gentle with physical affection and reward them with treats when you can, so they associate touch with care, and build that trust until they allow you to stay long enough to get a good count.

What if Your Cat's Heartbeat Is Too Fast?

A fast heart rate is not itself a problem, but it can be a symptom of a problem.

First, think about what your cat has been doing recently. If they've been running around, playing, chasing your ankles or the other cats in the household, or even doing something stimulating like watching birds out the window, their heart rate may be elevated.

It's the same way that we get excited, or our heart rates increase when we exercise. Your kitty is fine; they've just been enjoying themselves and expending energy.

On the other hand, as pointed out in the previous section, if their heart rate is over 200 beats per minute and all they've been doing is napping, there may be a health issue at play.

Moreover, if their heart rate is above 220 and they haven't been engaged in play recently, or if it's significantly higher than a previous check, you should discuss the finding with your vet.

Come to your vet armed with any other symptoms. In particular, you might check for:

• Blue discoloration of the mucous membranes in the mouth.
• Difficulty breathing, rapid breathing, irregular breathing, or labored breathing.
• A cough, wheezing, or other respiratory issue.
• Fainting.
• Weakness.
• Lethargy or intolerance to exercise.

These and other related symptoms can be a sign of a variety of different health problems. These can range from simple to serious and include issues like:

• Pain
• Pancreatitis.
• Heart disease, tumors, or cancer.
• Side effects from medications, particularly heart medications.
• Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy (HCM).
• Congenital heart defects.
• Hypothyroidism.
• Metabolic disease.
• Infection or illness.
• Shock or stress.
• Anxiety.

If your fur baby has a rapid heart rate, you should call your vet and be prepared to bring them in for an emergency check-up and examination.

In cases where their heart rate is too high or is elevated for too long, your vet may want to perform some tests. These tests may include an electrocardiogram (EKG) to monitor heart performance, imaging, and even blood tests to look for signs of disease.

It's worth noting that many vets don’t have the tools or expertise to perform an EKG in office and will refer you to a pet cardiologist. Curious about what happens at a vet cardiology appointment? Check out my experience here.

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What if Your Cat's Heartbeat Is Too Slow?

Healthy cats tend to have lower heart rates. When the body has to struggle to function, whether because of illness or disease, stress, or temporary problems, the heart has to pump faster to keep the body working. Thus, a slower heart rate is generally better.

That said, a slow heart rate even when exercising, or a very slow heart rate when resting, can be a sign of a problem. Called bradycardia, a slow heart rate can indicate issues such as:

• Hypothermia.
• Oversedation.
• Respiratory illnesses.
• Neurological diseases.
• Gastrointestinal diseases.

You'll want to look for other symptoms, such as passing out, lethargy, very slow breathing, and exercise intolerance. You may also notice seizures.

Again, you should call your vet and be prepared to bring your fur baby in for an examination. Your vet will run tests like the ECG, imaging, and a blood panel to look for possible reasons why your fur baby is having troubles.

Generally, a slow heart rate is either a sign of a healthy, active cat or a cat with underlying problems, and it will return to a normal range when those problems are addressed.

What if Your Cat's Heart Rate Is Irregular?

In a cat’s body, there are two nodes, part of the nervous system, that are responsible for sending regular signals to the heart to contract.

These nodes normally operate on a regular basis, but in times of distress, illness, or because of defects, might misfire. This can lead to skipped beats, irregular beats, and other variations in heart rhythm.

Irregular heartbeats can be an arrhythmia, or they can manifest as a heart murmur or another potential disease. Even a regularly spaced heartbeat can be "bad" if the beating fires in the wrong order, putting undue stress on the heart.

Important to note here is that occasional, sporadic irregular heartbeats are not necessarily a sign of something bad.

“Irregular heart rhythm, or cardiac arrhythmia, is important to take note of but is not always a serious condition. An irregular heartbeat occurs from time to time when a cat is under stress, nervous, or scared. Some breeds, like Persians, Maine Coon cats, and Himalayans, tend to be more prone to irregular heart rhythms than others.” - Rocky Mountain Veterinary Cardiology

Heart problems can be genetic, related to aging, and/or illness. Some breeds are more prone to heart disease such as HCM, so their heart rate and heart function should be monitored more closely.

A taurine deficiency can sometimes also cause this, though taurine deficiency is very rare in cats that are being fed properly.

As with other heart issues, call your vet and be prepared to bring your fur baby in for an examination to see what's wrong and how to fix it.

What Other Vital Signs Should You Check?

In addition to monitoring your cat’s heartbeat, part of a routine at-home physical examination should also include a vitals check. Heart rate is one of the core vitals; the other two are temperature and respiration rate.

Temperature is the most difficult to take because the best way to do it is rectally. A simple thermometer, a bit of water-soluble lube, and a calm cat distracted by treats are required to take their temperature. Ideally, your cat's internal body temperature will be somewhere between 100.5 and 102.5 degrees F.

Respiration is breathing. All you need here is to watch your cat's sides rise and fall or put a hand in front of their nose to feel for their breathing.

According to Dr. Bruce G. Kornreich, D.V.M, Ph.D., DACVIM, a normal range is between 15 and 30 breaths per minute.

“The normal resting respiratory rate for cats is between 15 and 30 breaths per minute. Respiratory rates above 35 breaths per minute in either species should prompt consultation with a veterinarian.” - Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine

Cats have small lungs, after all, and need to breathe fairly frequently to get the oxygen they need. As with heart rate, the more active they are or have been, the faster they'll breathe.

Like timing your kitty’s heartrate, counting their breaths while they are resting, even sleeping, is the best way to get a consistent rate.

Two other vitals you can check are called the CRT, or capillary refill time, and the mucous membrane state.

• CRT can be checked by opening your cat's mouth and lightly pressing on their gums. This presses the blood away from the surface and leaves the area white until the blood comes back. It should take no more than two seconds for the blood to return; if it takes longer, or it doesn't return at all, call your vet immediately.
• Mucous membranes are the interior surfaces of the mouth, as well as the nose, around the eyes, and other such surfaces. Look for discoloration – they should be a healthy pink – and make sure they're moist.

Finally, you can also check hydration status. A dehydrated kitty is an unhappy kitty, but if they aren't drinking, it can be a sign of any number of problems, including kidney issues, infections, and more. Keep an eye on how frequently your cat is drinking, how often they're urinating, and how elastic their skin is.

There are two main ways to check if your kitty is dehydrated.

The first is to touch their gums. Tacky or sticky gums is a sign of dehydration.

The second is to pinch the skin over their shoulder blades. In a hydrated cat the skin will almost immediately return to its original position. A dehydrated cat’s skin will slowly go from the tented position back into the original position.

What Other Questions Do You Have?

If you have any other questions about the health, the at-home checks, or the other potential things to watch for with our feline friends, please reach out and drop me a line. I'm not a vet, but I'm a friend to animals, and I know plenty about how to keep them happy and healthy.

At the same time, you can check out the rest of my blog for tips on everything from training cats or trimming their nails without making it a fight. There's something for everyone, so check it out!

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

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For dogs, one of those unusual exports is yellow poo. What causes it, and is it reason to be concerned?

Just like with us humans, your dog’s poop consistency and color can tell you a lot about a dog’s health. So, if you see a color change and it becomes a recurrent incidence, it’s important to bring it up with your vet to identify the underlying cause.

Today’s post is all about poop color, particularly when it comes out yellow. I’ll discuss what your dog’s normal poop color should be, different causes why yellow poop happens, and other common dog poop colors.

And, if you want to become a poop nerd, and want to learn what is considered "normal" poo for your pup, I've added a short great education video.

Let's dig in. Or, well, no, that sounds a little gross. Let's investigate. There, that sounds better!

What Color Should a Healthy Dog Poop Be?

Generally, a happy and healthy dog’s poop should be chocolate brown. Depending on changes in your dog’s diet you can expect the color to range from medium to dark brown.

“A healthy dog’s gallbladder releases bile to help break down food. Bilirubin, contained in bile, is added to the stool that makes it that chocolate-brown color. Some slight changes in color are normal as a result of a different diet or hydration. However, dog poop should generally stay brown.” - Found Animals.org

While occasional small deviations from medium to dark brown won’t in all cases represent a serious issue, you’ll want to make sure to note unusual poops when they do happen.

Context is very important when it comes to evaluating your dog’s poop. Ask yourself questions such as, is the change in color also happening with changes in behavior? Has the poop’s consistency, contents, and/or coating also changed?

The answers to these questions will help your vet determine the best action plan for your pup.

Color is not the only factor in assessing your dog’s poop. Watch the short video below to learn more.

What is Normal Poop for Your Dog by Dr. Karen Becker | 1:25 Mins Video

What Can Cause a Dog to Have Yellow Poop?

When you notice an odd or unusual color coming from your fur baby's rear end, you might be concerned, or you might panic, or you simply might think it's just normal variations.

Different colors can mean very different things, so what does yellowish poop say about your dog and their health?

Luckily, yellow poop is one of the least dangerous non-brown colors a dog can expel. While there are a few potentially dangerous causes, the most common is simply a food intolerance.

In a way, it's similar to the impact on the body that you might experience eating dairy when you're lactose intolerant, though with the, er, consistency issues.

Other potential issues that can cause yellow stool in a dog are digestion issues, infections, issues with particular organs, and food coloring.

Only a few of these are potentially dangerous; the others just mean you might need to pick a different food or treat for your fur baby.

How Does Diet Cause Yellow Poop?

Diet issues generally come down to food.

A change in poop color often crops up when you've changed the food your fur baby is eating, and their tummy doesn’t agree with the new food. They might be allergic to one of the ingredients in the new food, or they might have an intolerance to it.

“Mustard-colored stool may indicate that your dog is experiencing a food intolerance. It can occur if you switch your pup’s food to something new. The food may contain ingredients your pup’s stomach is unfamiliar with, or they may be allergic to the new food altogether.” - Wrigley Ville Veterinary

Whatever the case, their body reacts poorly to eating it, and their poop will be yellow in color or laced with yellow bile since their body didn't process it in its hurry to get it out.

You’ve probably heard of irritable bowel syndrome (IBS), which is triggered by something in the diet. Don’t confuse IBS with IBD (inflammatory bowel disease), which is a chronic condition, which will likely need medication to manage.

This can be accompanied with stomach pain, indigestion, or diarrhea. Luckily, it tends to be transient, so if you changed food recently and your dog started having yellow poos, it's easy enough to change back.

Pro tip: Switching to a new food should be done gradually over a week to 10 days to avoid stomach upset.

“If you end up doing a sudden diet change, your dog may have some diarrhea because they aren’t used to the new diet yet. This is usually temporary and will resolve without treatment but can be unpleasant for both of you. If the diarrhea lasts more than a day or two, or if your dog has other symptoms, call your veterinarian to get some probiotics or anti-diarrhea medications to help ease the transition.” – Cornell College of Veterinary Medicine

The biggest issue is when you're changing food for a particular health reason or at your vet’s recommendation.

You'll need to find a different food that eliminates the issues the current food causes, whatever those issues may be. It can take some trial and error before you narrow down what ingredients are causing the digestive upset.

Pro tip: The best option is to look at the old food and write down all of the ingredients. Then look at the new food and write down anything that wasn't on the first list.

That's your short list of potential ingredients causing the problem.

With this list in hand, you’ll want to try new foods that eliminate at least one of those ingredients. You still need to transition slowly, so give it some time to see how your pup responds to the new food.

If you don't have the time, money, or luxury of being able to diagnose this yourself, you can also take your fur baby to the vet for some testing. Dog allergy tests can help narrow down what ingredients to avoid.

It won't work for sensitivities, though. Sadly, there's always the potential risk of contaminated food, and that's not something you'll find on ingredient lists.

If you opened a new bag of food, the same brand you’ve been buying, and suspect it’s the culprit, do a quick search to see if the lot was recalled. It happens more often than you probably realize.

You can run a quick search on the US Food and Drug Administration Recalls and Withdrawals Database.

When in doubt, a homemade meal of chicken and rice is usually hearty enough and has the right balance of nutrition to keep your fur baby going while you work on introducing other foods to figure out what one is causing the problem.

“Mild cases of diarrhea in both cats and dogs can be treated at home by feeding a bland diet such as boiled chicken or low-fat hamburger, and white rice,” says Miller. Cooked pasta is another option. These foods are easy to digest, so they give your dog’s GI tract a break.” – Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine

Read More Dog Wellness Guides

• How to Keep Dog Paws from Getting Burnt on Hot Pavement
• Dog-Friendly Probiotics: Are Human Probiotics Safe for Dogs?
• Emergency Care: What to Do If Your Dog Gets Stung by a Bee

Remember to lay off on the spices. Things like onion and garlic make food taste yummy to us, but they are harmful to your pup.

Now, keep in mind that while feeding your dog chicken and rice may be a great way to reduce upset stomach symptoms, this shouldn’t be done for more than a couple of days, or until symptoms disappear.

Alternatively, oats are usually a better option than rice for soothing your dog's upset stomach.

Another thing you should never do in cases of diarrhea is to give your dog human medicine.

“Never try human medications such as Pepto Bismol (bismuth subsalicylate) or Imodium (loperamide) unless directed by a veterinarian, as they can be harmful to certain dogs and may not pair well with other medications.”- Cornell College of Veterinary Medicine

What Infections Can Cause Yellow Poop?

Infections are one of the more potentially dangerous sources of yellow tint in dog poo.

Bacteria, viruses, parasites, and even fungal infections can throw the body off kilter and leave your fur baby pushing more bile and other bodily fluids into the intestines, rather than using it the way it's meant to be used, giving the stool a yellow color.

Parasites are of special concern in puppies as they may not have been vaccinated yet.

There are multiple types of worms that can cause soft, yellow stool. The good news is these parasites can be easily identified with a stool sample analysis done by your vet.

With infections, yellow won't be the only change you'll notice, though. There may be streaks of blood, it may be extra soft or extra firm, or even almost watery. In cases of parasites, you might even notice bits of worm in the poo, which is a surefire sign of a parasitic infection.

The good news is in most cases, a trip to the vet – even a virtual vet visit or a phone call – can be enough to get the medication you need prescribed and give it to your fur baby.

Typically, some medications (antibiotics for bacteria, antivirals for viruses, antifungals for fungi, and antiparasitics for worms) will run their course, take out the infection, and leave your fur baby recovering in short order.

If you notice other signs of your fur baby being sick, like lethargy, trouble eating, vomiting, sniffling, pain, or other behavioral changes, you'll want to take your fur baby to the vet for a full examination.

Is Yellow Poop an Organ Issue in Dogs?

One of the rarer causes of yellow poo – and one of the reasons you need to be especially vigilant and talk to your vet just in case – is that it can be a sign of organ issues.

Specifically, there are a few organs that can lead to yellow, yellowish, or even orange or orangish stool.

Can Liver Problems Cause Yellow Stools in My Dog?

The first is the liver. The liver is a giant filter that takes in blood from the body and filters out toxins the blood carries away from the cells.

If the liver isn't working right, it can lead to jaundice, which colors just about everything in the body yellow, including eyes, gums, and skin. Liver issues prior to jaundice can cause the poop to turn yellow too, and they're definitely something you need to have looked at.

“The most common causes of liver disease (in dogs) include viral or bacterial infections, ingestion of toxic plants or chemicals, certain drugs and medications, cancer, autoimmune diseases, and certain breed-specific liver diseases.” - VCA Animal Hospitals

Warning signs of liver issues and liver disease include yellowing of parts of the body, but also vomiting, excessive thirst, excessive peeing, confusion, and even seizures in extreme cases.

Is Orange Poop a Sign of Pancreatitis in My Dog?

The second organ that can cause yellow stools is the pancreas.

Specifically, pancreatitis (the inflammation of the pancreas) happens when digestive enzymes work their way into the pancreas when they shouldn't be there.

“Some breeds, including Terriers and Miniature Schnauzers, may be more prone to pancreatitis than other breeds. It's also more commonly seen in dogs who are over five years old. Dogs with particular health issues, such as obesity, diabetes, or hypothyroidism, can also be at greater risk for pancreatitis.” – ASPCA Health Pet Insurance

With pancreatitis you can expect more of an orangish color. Stools with tones of orange may indicate inflammation of the pancreas (pancreatitis).

It's very painful, and your fur baby can end up with lethargy, a fever, and other similar symptoms.

It should be treated right away, so call your vet if any of those symptoms crop up. Long-term pancreatitis can also lead to canine diabetes, so be on the lookout for that, too.

Can gallbladder problems cause my dog stool to turn yellow?

The third organ that can cause yellow poo is the gallbladder. The gallbladder produces bile for use in the digestive system, particularly in the intestines.

“In rare cases, the gall bladder will rupture due to severe distention and obstruction. This will result in abdominal discomfort, severe lethargy, vomiting, and inappetence. If these signs are noted, your pet should be evaluated immediately as the rupture of the gall bladder requires immediate surgery.” - Veterinary Specialty Center

When the gallbladder gets inflamed or blocked by gallstones (or a tumor), bile backs up or can overflow and lead to bile-laced feces, which will be yellow.

This is both painful and dangerous and shares many of the same symptoms as the previous organ issues, with the same action needed: take them to the vet ASAP.

What Else Can Cause a Dog's Poop to Be Yellow?

One of the more common causes we haven't mentioned yet is just eating something yellow.

Dogs love to eat just about anything that smells like something tasty, and their concept of tasty is very different from our own. That means they're prone to eating all sorts of things that they probably shouldn't.

In this case, anything that has yellow dyes in it can end up yellow in the stool. Rather than uniformly yellow poo, though, it will tend to be uneven in color and clumped up in certain areas. Your pup probably isn't thoroughly chewing their food, after all.

Read More Dog Wellness Guides

• Quick Thinking: Responding to a Choking Dog and First Aid
• Healthy vs Unhealthy Dog Gums (And What to Look For)
• How to Control and Calm Down a Hyperactive Dog
• FAQ: Is It Ever “Too Late” to Socialize an Adult Dog?

Common offenders here are often child toys, like yellow crayons, yellow chalk, yellow play-doh, and other such items.

While these are often on the "safe" side of dangerous, they can still be a little hazardous to your pup, even if they're designed to be safe for children.

In most cases, though, once it passes through their system, their poo will be a normal brown again.

Is Yellow Poop Cause for Concern?

Sometimes, yes! Sometimes, no. It's tricky.

As discussed above, food intolerances are by far the safest and the most common causes of yellow poo in dogs.

Either they don't like something they're eating (biologically, that is, they may enjoy eating it), or they're allergic to it. This can be painful and unpleasant for your fur baby, but it won't be an actual problem as long as you stop feeding them the ingredient that disagrees with them.

The other harmless, or mostly harmless, cause of yellow stool is eating something like chalk. While this isn't exactly healthy, it's generally not going to be overly dangerous unless the thing they ate was toxic to them, in which case you'll see a lot more side effects than just yellow stool.

On the other hand, issues like infections and organ failure, gallstones, pancreatitis, or a bowel obstruction can all be dangerous or even life-threatening problems. These all warrant an immediate trip to the vet to get them looked at and treated.

The one saving grace here is that with something like food intolerance, it's typically pretty easy to diagnose.

Did you feed them something new? Are they fine the next day? If so, you're probably in the clear and just need to pick a different food. While the stomach ache can be painful, it's not that dangerous except in extreme allergy cases.

On the other hand, if your fur baby has any symptoms other than yellow poo and maybe some diarrhea or abdominal distension and/or pain, you'll definitely want to take them to the vet.

What Other Colors Might Dog Poo Be?

In general, shades of brown is considered the normal color, and yellow is an abnormal color, but are there other colors that can appear as well? As you may have guessed, the answer is yes.

So, what other colors of poop are possible, and what do they mean?

• Black. Black poo is generally a sign of internal bleeding, usually somewhere in the upper GI tract. This can be something like stomach ulcers as well. Sometimes it can heal on its own, but it's usually best to bring them to the vet just in case since internal bleeding can be quite serious.
• Grey. Grey means your fur baby can't break down the fat in the food they eat. It could be just that they're eating too much fat and can't digest it all before it works its way through them. Or, it could be a problem with their pancreas.
• White specks. White specks in the poo are generally a sign of tapeworms, which shed segments when they get too long. Dewormer will clear it right up, but you should talk to your vet about regular worm medications as well.
• Red. Red is a sign of fresh blood, meaning an injury lower down in the GI tract or actually on the rear end itself. It can also be an issue with anal glands or colitis.
• Purple. Purple poo is rare, but it's a sign of severe gastroenteritis, especially if the poo has a jam-like consistency. An emergency vet is a good idea here.
• Green. Green can be a food coloring issue, a sign that your fur baby is eating grass or houseplants, or a sign of some poisoning.
• Yellow specks. This can be something like partially digested corn, or it can be worms again.

Any color other than brown can be a cause for concern, but when in doubt, ask your vet if you should bring them in. While you're at it, make sure you know other important details, like how often your dog is going each day, the consistency, and their diet.

Do you have any non-medically urgent questions about today's topic, or do you have any stories you think may be helpful to other readers? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below! I'll gladly answer any of your potential questions to the best of my ability, and if you leave a story, I'm sure the other readers would greatly appreciate your input!

Close your eyes for a second and imagine you have one right now. Can you feel the pain? Now, imagine you're a dog.

You can't brush your own teeth to take care of them, you can't talk to tell anyone something hurts, and you don't have regular dentist appointments to get cavities filled.

Dog tooth pain is a terrible affliction that can make life miserable for your pup. Moreover, it can make your precious fur baby a lot more aggressive, irritated, resistant to play and touch, and more.

This is all why it's extremely important to keep your dog's oral health as good as possible and watch for warning signs of something going wrong before it becomes a significant issue.

“Few dogs show obvious signs of dental disease, so it is up to the dog’s family and veterinarian to uncover this hidden and often painful condition.” - VCA Animal Hospitals

In today’s post I talk all about tooth pain in dogs. From causes to signs, to what to do to prevent your pup from ever having to experience tooth pain.

As usual I’ve also added a very short but great educational video on how to easily brush your dog’s teeth by Dr. Uri Burstyn.

Looking for more research-backed dog care guides you can trust? Feel free to visit my blog and search by topic. I’m sure you will learn a thing or two that will improve your dog’s life.

Let’s dig in!

What Can Cause Tooth Pain in Dogs?

There are a wide range of different causes for tooth pain, but they can generally be divided into two groups: slow and fast.

Dogs don't have hands, which means they have a very limited range of options when it comes to interacting with the world around them.

One of the main ways they do anything that we would use our hands to accomplish is by using their mouth.

Unfortunately, this means they are much more prone to getting things like sticks or stones caught in their teeth, chomping on something much too hard for them, or generally hurting their oral health.

Slow Developing Causes of Tooth Pain

"Slow" causes for tooth pain are similar to what we experience as humans. Gum disease, tooth decay, and oral tumors are all forms of "slow" tooth damage.

Gingivitis and tooth decay (periodontitis) are both caused by bacteria building up in the mouth and causing problems, either with the gums or with the teeth themselves.

We people end up with cavities because that bacteria creates acid that eats away at tooth enamel until the sensitive inner roots are exposed, causing pain.

A similar kind of slow oral problem is tumors in the mouth. These can show up in a bunch of different ways, but they are all going to be at least sensitive and often painful in their own right.

In addition to pain on their own, oral cancers and tumors can push teeth out of alignment, loosen them, or put pressure on nerves that causes more pain. It's always something you want to keep an eye out for.

Injury Related Causes of Tooth Pain

"Fast" tooth pain is more of an acute injury.

If your dog chomps on a stick the wrong way and cracks a tooth, it can cause immediate pain that won't go away, because teeth don't really heal.

Certain types of dog toys can also damage their teeth. Jaw fractures from an impact, lacerations of the gums from a sharp bit on a stick they grabbed, and other such problems can cause tooth pain as well.

Even something as simple as chewing on a stick that has splinters in it can be enough to lodge something in the gums and cause problems.

What Are the Warning Signs of Tooth Pain in Dogs?

While your puppy pal might not be able to tell you when they have a toothache, there are almost always going to be signs that something is wrong.

Your Dog is Drooling Excessively

Many dogs drool for all kinds of reasons. But, an irritation in the mouth will cause more drooling than normal, which is usually noticeable. Moreover, if your fur baby has blood in their drool, it can be a sign of a worse problem, like cancer or a laceration.

“Oral foreign bodies are another common cause of excessive drooling in dogs. Dogs will often chew on things they shouldn't, and sometimes these things can get stuck in their mouths. A common location for bones and sticks to become stuck are between the upper left and right molars” – Kingsdale Animal Hospital

Your Dog Has Foul Breath

While the stereotype of dogs having bad breath may be common, it's not actually typically true.

Bad breath is usually caused by bacterial build-up in the teeth, gums, and oral cavity. If your dog's breath is really bad, there may be something going wrong. Of course, maybe they just ate something awful.

Your Dog Has Lost Their Appetite

Your pup seems interested in food but won’t eat. If your fur baby finds it painful to eat because of a broken tooth, then they're going to be more averse to eating, even if they're hungry.

This is often one of the first signs that something is wrong with your pup.

“Interest in food with reluctance to eat may be due to: Pain in or around the mouth (for example dental disease, an abscess behind or around the eye, a mass in the oral cavity, salivary gland disorders, fractures of the jaw or inflammation of the muscles supporting the jaw).” - Lort Smith Animal Hospital

Read More Dog Wellness Guides

• How to Keep Dog Paws from Getting Burnt on Hot Pavement
• Dog-Friendly Probiotics: Are Human Probiotics Safe for Dogs?
• A Dog Owner's Guide to Essential Oils: 20+ Safe Options

Your Dog Has Red, Swollen, or Bleeding Gums

Gum disease causes the gums to get inflamed, which means they're more sensitive, more packed with blood, and will bleed more easily.

“Reddened gums may be tender and painful, so your dog may be reluctant to eat. If your dog has red gums, they should be examined by a veterinarian.” - Pet MD

This can be easy to spot if you regularly inspect your fur baby's mouth, which we highly recommend.

“Dental disease in pets, especially dogs, is extremely common. It is estimated that more than 80 percent of dogs over the age of three suffer from dental disease.” - Pet Food Institute

Your Dog Exhibits Strange Behaviors Focusing on the Head

Since dogs can't exactly go take some aspirin when they have pain, they'll do what they can to try to relieve it.

This can mean new behaviors like pawing at their head, scratching at their ears, crying while yawning, or if they won't stop licking.

Some of these are sources of comfort, some are distractions, and some are reactions to the pain. If your fur baby is exhibiting any of these when they didn't use to, it can be a sign that something is wrong.

Your Dog Shows Resistance to Touch or is Aggressive

Pain makes dogs behave atypically.

If they usually like having their face rubbed, but now they shy away when you try it, or they snap at you when you try to do anything involving their face, it's a surefire sign that something is wrong.

This is known as pain-elicited aggression.

“Animals attempt to protect themselves by responding aggressively when they feel pain in attempt to prevent future pain. Unfortunately, animals often attack the person or animal nearest to them rather than only the thing actually causing pain.” - Animal Humane Society

Your Dog Seems Depressed

Pain is painful! Obviously! So, when your pup is in pain, they won't be enjoying their time, even during their favorite activities.

If they're lethargic, unenthused with even their favorite toys, and don't seem interested in dog treats, you know something is up.

“According to the American Veterinary Dental College, most dogs and cats have some evidence of periodontal disease by the age of three, often indicated by bad breath, a change in eating or chewing habits, pawing at the face and mouth, and depression.” - American Veterinary Medical Association

What Should You Do if Your Dog Has Tooth Pain?

If you suspect your fur baby is suffering from some kind of tooth pain, the first thing to do is try to do an at home inspection.

Your findings will determine whether you should rush them to the vet or simply schedule an appointment.

Try to look into their mouth and see if there's anything obviously wrong. Look for:

• Unusual lumps.
• Bleeding or a source of blood, like a cut.
• Swollen, reddened, or bleeding gums.
• Discolored teeth.
• Cracked or broken teeth.
• Missing teeth.
• Signs of pus leaking from an abscess.

If you spot an issue, or if you don't spot one but still think it's a case of oral pain, the next step is to talk to your vet.

Give them a call and ask if you should bring your fur baby in immediately or schedule an appointment.

Generally, issues like a wound or laceration, prominent infection, or broken tooth will require an immediate response from your vet, and bringing your fur baby in right away will be necessary to prevent prolonged pain, further damage, or infection.

For issues like a cavity or gum disease, it's not as time sensitive; while you want to get them seen as soon as possible, you don't need to rush them into the emergency vet in the middle of the night.

When assessing the oral health of your fur baby, your vet will go through a series of tests.

They will probably draw some blood to run some blood and serum tests, which can determine if there are other causes for concern and/or infections that need to be addressed.

They will also attempt to probe your fur baby's mouth to look for problems and identify swollen gums, lacerations, broken teeth, loose teeth, or any other visible issue.

Depending on the problem, your vet may give you medication to deal with an infection, or your fur baby may need a procedure.

If a procedure is called for, your vet will give them a general anesthetic and will perform whatever oral care needs to be performed, such as removing a tooth, draining an abscess, or stitching up a laceration.

Read More Dog Wellness Guides

• Emergency Care: What to Do If Your Dog Gets Stung by a Bee
• Quick Thinking: Responding to a Choking Dog and First Aid
• FAQ: Can I Give My Dog Aspirin and What's The Right Dosage?
• How to Control and Calm Down a Hyperactive Dog

How Often Should Dogs Get Dental Check-ups?

To help prevent tooth pain, you should make sure to get dental care for your fur baby on a regular basis.

We humans generally go to the dentist for a cleaning and exam once every six months, but when should you begin and how often should your dog get their own visit?

Dental care should start early

Most dogs have some kind of dental issue by the time they're three, usually stemming from lack of dental care, injury, or missed cleanings.

Puppies and young dogs don't necessarily need a full dental cleaning, but they should have their mouths checked as part of their regular vet appointment.

How often your fur baby should have their teeth checked depends on their breed and their existing health.

Larger dogs generally only need one cleaning and inspection per year, and some dogs don't even need it quite that often.

Smaller dogs may need check-ups as often as every six months to help prevent the loss of their teeth.

After all, small dogs have less tooth enamel to form a buffer between the root and bacteria, so a tooth can go from fine to a total loss in a very short amount of time.

If your fur baby has existing oral health issues or general health issues, they may need more frequent check-ups.

This is because an imbalance in body chemistry can lead to less protected teeth and less ability to fight off infections. Similarly, a dog that has already lost some teeth is more prone to losing the others.

As some point you can expect your vet to recommend a full dental exam. The process is similar to what happens when you go to the dentist, including a scaling to remove tartar build-up, x-rays to diagnose cavities, root issues, cracks, and bone health, and careful probing to check for loose teeth or swollen gums, though dogs have to be sedated for the procedure.

Since anesthesia can be a big deal for dogs, a large and complex procedure may require more than one session at the vet. Though, with regular cleanings, it will likely be one session and follow-up care, including antibiotics and care instructions.

The good news here is that most regular vets perform dental cleanings, so you don’t have to worry about going to a specialist, though veterinary dental specialist do exist in certain areas.

How Can You Help Prevent Tooth Problems in Dogs?

The key to preventing tooth and mouth issues in dogs is home care. Home dog dental care involves several preventative actions and measures you can take.

I probably say this too much, but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. This is rarely as true as it is with tooth issues.

A little bit of prevention every day can help prevent the need for tooth removal surgery down the line. After all, while we can get cavities filled as people, our furry children can't.

First and foremost, you should get your dog used to having their teeth brushed. Most dogs can be trained to tolerate tooth brushing, especially if they're rewarded afterward.

How to Brush Your Dog’s Teeth by Dr. Uri Burstyn | 4:41 Min Video

That said, some dogs are very averse to the process; as such, you may be able to get an oral rinse or even anti-plaque chews for your dog to nibble on to help keep their mouths clearer.

One thing to note here is that you absolutely need to get a dog-friendly toothpaste.

Human toothpaste usually includes ingredients that are dangerous for dogs, and since dogs aren't really trained to know how to swish and spit, it's difficult to keep them safe.

And, of course, dog toothpaste is much more delicious for them; it tastes like chicken or peanut butter.

You’ll also want to get a toothbrush that is size appropriate for your pup. For smaller pups, a finger toothbrush, one that is silicone and slides over your finger might be a good choice.

If you go the more traditional toothbrush route, make sure to find one that is size appropriate for your pup’s mouth.

An alternative to tooth brushing, if your fur baby doesn't tolerate it, is tooth wipes. These are softer and less irritating that toothbrushes. You can wrap it around a finger and use to wipe plaque off their teeth.

I mentioned it earlier, but dental treats are are a nice option to add to a dental cleaning routine. Some include plaque-fighting ingredients and are designed to be just abrasive enough to help clean teeth as they chew. Likewise, dental chews for your dog are designed to rub their teeth as they chew at them, cleaning them.

If you have specific questions or concerns, you can always ask your vet what they recommend for caring for your dog's mouth. Some vets find that certain products work better than others, and everyone will have their own favorite recommendations.

If you rescued an adult dog it’s going to be more difficult to train them to allow teeth cleaning, but don’t be discouraged. Regular vet visits and dental cleanings will allow you to stay on top of their dental health.

Regardless of brushing habits, it’s important to always keep an eye on your fur baby to look for behavioral changes that might indicate pain.

It's usually quite noticeable when an issue crops up, and it's always something you want to have addressed as soon as possible. That way, your furry child can get back to their usual happy, tail-wagging, playful self without needing to worry about that nagging toothache.

What steps have you taken to ensure the health of your furry friend's teeth? Does your dog tolerate teeth brushing? Or do they much prefer tooth wipes? Which cleaning method works best for you? I'd love to hear about your experiences, as they tend to be vastly different from one another, so please be sure to leave a comment down below!

You never want to see your fur baby limping, and you know when they start that it could be the beginning of months (or longer) of therapy, restricted movement, and other health issues.

Knee injuries, in particular, are terrible. After all, it's not like you can just talk to your dog and tell them they need to rest their leg!

One common solution to knee injuries is a brace, but there's a lot of controversy about them in the canine world. Are they effective, are they meaningless, or worse, actively hindering healing?

In today’s post I go an inch deep and a mile wide about dog knee injuries and the role of knee braces. I’ve also added a great educational video on one of the most common dog knee injuries cranial cruciate ligament Injury (CCL). This is a must watch!

There's a lot of ground to cover, and you might be surprised at some of the factors at play.

Why Would a Dog Need a Knee Brace?

Dog knee braces are recommended when limited to no motion is required for limb injury healing or to prevent further damage in a joint.

In most cases knee braces, also known as stifle braces, are necessary to limit motion of an injured knee in a dog.

In particular, Cranial Cruciate Ligament (CCL) injuries are some of the most common knee injuries in dogs. Wearing a knee brace limits movement of the leg thus allowing the tendon(s) to tighten up and heal.

In addition to cranial cruciate ligament injuries, stifle braces can also be used for a wide variety of hind leg injuries including patellar luxation and other conditions such as arthritis.

Why Many Are Skeptical of Dog Knee Braces

Dog knee braces have been around for a long time, but for most of that time, vets have shied away from them.

It's not necessarily because they're bad, but more because they weren't properly designed.

You see, when dog parents encounter a limping pup, they want to help in any way they can.

Often, they get the idea that a brace – something we use on our own joints when they are sore or injured – could be the solution. Pretty logical right?

The trouble is most casual pet parents aren't canine anatomists. As humans we understand what bone versus soft tissue injury is and can gauge if and what treatment can be done at home.

With our fur babies you’d have to be able to visually diagnose the cause of the limp, to determine what treatment is appropriate.

Using a brace to immobilize or restrict the motion of a knee is a good way to allow it to heal, by preventing further aggravation to the affected area. However, there are two problems with this DIY approach:

• First, you have little way of knowing what particular part of the knee was injured. Did your fur baby tear their ACL or their CCL? Did they crack their patella or one of the other bones in the area? Is it a more complex injury, or even just a dislocation?
• And second, without knowing the specific injury, you don't necessarily know what kind of motion needs to be restricted.

More importantly, if you put a brace on your fur baby and they go wild with all of their pent-up energy, they could end up overcompensating and tearing their other knee, leaving them in a much worse position for healing. Nobody wants that, right?

Anyway, all of these different factors combined into one perfect storm of skepticism and distrust.

Vets were still working on developing treatments for various knee issues (read more about common dog knee injuries down below), but medical developments take a long time and a lot of testing to get right.

Meanwhile, braces started to hit the market, designed for dogs and sold by pet parents just trying to help their fellow pet parents.

These braces were initially inconsistent in quality and often not quite right in design.

As a result, they would fully immobilize a leg, or immobilize the wrong kind of movement and leave the leg open to further injury, or even fail to provide support the way they would need to for healing.

Vets saw these braces, recognized that they often either did nothing or did more harm than good and shied away from them.

Vets would then recommend surgical procedures and the accompanying rest and support rather than something simple and non-invasive like a brace.

Of course, surgical procedures are invasive, take a long time to heal, and are expensive to boot. Many pet parents couldn't handle it.

Who would choose to pay thousands of dollars and months of recovery for a surgery when a $30 brace from a pet parent blog might do the job?

Why Early Dog Knee Braces Didn't Work

Early dog knee braces didn't work for a few different reasons.

The first is that a lot of them were made out of some kind of fabric. Fabric is flexible and stretchy; that means it can support a knee without getting in the way of your fur baby's ability to live their life, right?

Well, yes, but that's the problem. Fabric stretches, and when you're looking to immobilize a knee, that flexibility means it doesn't actually do what it needs to do.

The brace might provide some additional support to allow your pup to move more confidently, but when the injured knee is allowed to slip around, it can tear other ligaments, wear away at the joints, and cause arthritis.

On top of that, fabric is mobile. Even a bit of subtle rubbing back and forth, all day, every day, is enough to wear out fur and skin, leaving rope-like burns and irritation at best.

Another problem with early dog knee braces is that they were often improperly sized.

Think about it. If you wanted to make a brace to support a dog's torn knee, what size would you make it?

Obviously, you'd need a few different sizes; some dogs are larger than others.

You can't even begin to use the same brace on a Mastiff that you would on a Chihuahua. The brace for one would be a full bodysuit on the other!

Of course, the people making braces early on didn't have the resources to custom-make every single brace they sold and would just do the best they could and make a few different sizes, often a small/medium/large set for small/medium/large breeds (for nine total braces.)

Even that's not enough, though. There are nearly 400 recognized dog breeds, and there's plenty of variation within breed.

In humans, with all our variation, there are 14 different sizes for knee braces. Imagine 14 different knee brace designs for every breed of dog there is. That's way more than a hobbyist and dog lover can produce.

Braces have changed over time through trial and error. Modern braces are more limited in design.

They don't have complex harnesses meant to hold the brace in place the way older fabric braces did (which also immobilized the hip and caused more mobility issues for dogs.)

They're also made out of harder plastic that is designed to do its job while not restricting other kinds of movement.

They're smaller, easier to put on, less prone to causing skin problems, and less likely to hamper mobility and lead to overcompensation.

Modern braces are made by taking measurements specifically for your dog and your dog alone. Small hobbyist shops and blogs couldn't do something like that, but modern medical companies certainly can.

Plus, the design of these braces was created by trained orthotists, people who work with bones and joints as their primary career, and who know exactly how those knees work and how they can go wrong.

Do Dog Knee Braces Work?

Yes, they do! Well, I should say most of the time. So, here's the thing.

When your dog's knee is injured, you need to take them to the vet so the vet can diagnose what the specific injury is.

Different injuries need to be treated in different ways. Sometimes, that means a brace, some pain relievers, limited mobility, or surgery; other times, it's somewhere in between. Your vet may find that your dog is just exhausted or picked up a thorn during a hike.

Many vets will go with a brace as often as possible because it's less invasive and much less expensive for pet parents.

Other vets prefer to go with surgery because it's a faster and more guaranteed solution to the problem. Often, though, the actual solution is a hybrid.

Surgery can help correct the issue, and a brace helps keep your dog from tearing the sutures or otherwise re-injuring themselves.

Don't get me wrong; surgery is still difficult!

Older dogs in particular can sometimes have trouble with anesthesia, and you may be hesitant to get them put under. A brace can still help in many cases, but it's not a guaranteed cure-all.

Depending on the severity of the injury, it's entirely possible that a brace alone won't be enough for complete healing.

There's also the risk of another knee injury to the other leg. Since one torn ACL imbalances your fur baby, they'll start to use their other leg for more of their mobility, putting more stress on it and eventually leading to it tearing as well.

If a dog tears one knee, it's very common for them to tear the other within a few years.

How to Prevent Dog Knee Injuries

Knee injuries can be very painful and can dramatically change your pup’s life forever.

When it comes to the well-being of our fur babies, I always like to quote Benjamin Franklin on prevention: "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

I believe the best way to take care of any injury is by taking measures to minimize the risk of occurrence.

There are a few basic preventative steps you can take to decrease your dog’s odds of suffering from knee injuries:

• Help your dog maintain an ideal weight.
• Enrich your dog’s diet with joint supporting supplements, like glucosamine, chondroitin, and omega 3 fatty acids.
• Especially with senior dogs, avoid high-impact activities while encouraging low-impact activities such as swimming

If your dog has a propensity to knee injuries, preventing them will be a tough challenge.

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However, sticking to the basic recommendations above will hopefully keep your pup out of the vet’s office and enjoying life more.

When your dog suffers from a knee injury, the treatment will depend on the severity. Your vet might recommend from physical therapy to surgery. If your pup is not a good candidate for surgery, a knee brace might help.

“For animals that are unable to undergo surgery, there are braces that can be custom made to externally stabilize the knee.” - Dr. Timothy Schwab - Metropolitan Veterinary Associates.

What Are the Most Common Knee Injuries in Dogs?

Cranial cruciate ligament rupture and patellar luxation are the two most common knee injuries that affect dogs. They both occur in the rear legs.

While both injuries will cause lameness in your dog, they are treated differently.

After learning about knee braces and their effectiveness, it is helpful to learn about the most common injuries that result in a vet recommendation for a knee brace.

Without getting too technical, here is a little background on the most common dog knee injuries.

Cranial Cruciate Ligament Rupture

Like a human’s anterior cruciate ligament (ACL), the cranial cruciate ligament in dogs holds the bones of the leg into place. The cranial cruciate ligament (CCL) is one of the most important stabilizers inside the knee joint.

Dog Leg Anatomy

What Causes Cranial Cruciate Ligament Rupture in Dogs?

The CCL can tear for many different reasons causing a lot of pain and discomfort. The rupture can occur as a sudden event or as a progressive degeneration over time.

A dog that suffers a rupture of the cranial cruciate ligament will find it hard to walk because when they put weight on it, the bones have nothing to keep them in place, and the knee will give out.

Cranial cruciate ligament ruptures can affect any dog regardless of age and size. However, obese and large-breed dogs show a higher propensity.

“Obese dogs appear to be more predisposed to developing a cruciate rupture. In these dogs, the injury may occur with minor trauma to the knee, such as stumbling over a rock while walking.” – VCA | Animal Hospitals

Additionally, some breeds are also known for showing higher incidence of occurrence. These breeds include Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, Rottweilers, and Pit Bulls amongst others.

Check out this educational video on common questions about cranial cruciate ligament injury by Dr. Britton Bradberry from Advanced Veterinary Care:

Common Questions About Cranial Cruciate Ligament Injury Video

Patellar Luxation

Luxating means out of place. Patella luxation occurs when a dog’s kneecap slides out of the crevice it sits in and out of place.

It’s basically the dog’s equivalent to a dislocated kneecap in humans.

Unlike cranial cruciate ligament rupture, dogs with this condition usually don’t show signs of pain.

The severity of this injury may range from a mild luxation, happening only during flexion, to permanent luxation involving muscles and tendons.

Luxating Patella in Dogs

Although most common in little dogs, large dogs can also suffer it.

Patellar luxation, is one of the most common orthopedic conditions in dogs, affecting about 7% of puppies and primarily small breeds.

Boston and Yorkshire terriers, Chihuahuas, Pomeranians, and miniature Poodles seem to show the highest propensity to this type of injury.

If you’ve noticed intermittent limping, sudden intermittent loss of support in the rear legs or perhaps an abnormal sitting position your dog may be suffering from a patellar luxation.

“They (dogs) may off-load the limb when standing, hold it off of the ground, or limp after exercise. Some animals have difficulty rising.” - Dr. Timothy Schwab - Metropolitan Veterinary Associates.

What to Do if Your Dog Injures Their Knee

If your fur baby played a little too hard, stumbled, got a leg caught, or otherwise had energy exceed their body's ability to keep them going, a damaged knee is a likely result. After all, it's a relatively fragile, very mobile joint that suffers a lot of impact and stress.

If your fur baby injures their knee, the first thing you need to do is take them to the vet.

Sometimes, all you're dealing with is a minor sprain, and they'll be right as rain again in as little as a few weeks with proper care.

Pain meds are also a good first step, but only for short-term use.

It's generally not a good idea to give a dog pain meds for more than a few weeks at a time; they can have side effects that include damage to the kidneys and liver, as well as other issues along the way.

For more long term management of pain, CBD tinctures have turned out to be very effective with very little to no side effects.

If you choose this route, we highly advise that you do thorough research before you make a purchase decision.

Our basic recommendation is to pick USDA certified organic hemp-based CBD tinctures extracted using the CO2 method and that come with a certificate of analysis.

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From there, the usual go-to for most injuries is going to be mobility restrictions and a brace.

The brace serves to immobilize the knee, preventing the bones from stressing other ligaments and muscles or wearing away at each other and causing arthritis. With rest, care, and proper use of a brace, most minor and moderate injuries can heal on their own.

Braces are also good for dogs that, for one reason or another, can't have surgery. There are many different reasons this might be, including age, kidney or heart issues, or other high-risk factors.

If your fur baby can't have surgery but suffers a severe enough injury, they may end up with limited mobility permanently. It's sad, but it's better than risking their life in a surgery they shouldn't have, right?

In younger, healthier dogs, and when the injury is severe, surgery is more likely to be necessary.

Luckily, modern medical science has made it a lot easier and less invasive to perform such a surgery, though the extent of the surgery will depend on the injury, the dog, the vet, and the available equipment.

One thing that you almost never have to worry about is euthanasia. It's extremely rare for an injury to be severe enough to hinder your furry friend's quality of life to such a great extent to make such an act a viable choice.

No, your fur baby will likely be able to wear a brace for a few weeks or a few months and be right as rain not long after.

Has your vet ever recommended your furry friend wear a knee brace? If so, what was your experience like? Did it work as well as you hoped it would, or did it make for any memorable stories? I'd love to hear all your thoughts and stories about your fur baby's knee brace experiences, so be sure to drop those down below!

Sometimes, that happens when your poor pup is struggling to stand, with shaking, weak, and quivering hind legs.

What's going on, and what can you do about it?

Today we’re going to dive into reasons why your dog’s back legs are weak and shaking. There are many possible causes, some benign and others more concerning, but we’ll discuss both in detail.

Is Weakness in Your Dog's Hind Legs Dangerous?

The truth is, it's impossible to tell without looking at the circumstances.

It can be frightening to see them struggle to stand, shake as they move, or limp as if their legs are sore.

Your instinct might be to rush them to the emergency vet, but is that the right call?

There are perfectly benign and non-harmful reasons why your dog's legs might be shaking.

On the other hand, it may also be a sign of something serious and might warrant an immediate trip to the vet.

Consider when the shaking or weakness occurs before getting seriously concerned. Is it something that only happens intermittently or is it more constant? Can you tie an event or activity to the shaking, or does it seem to come on out of the blue?

What Other Symptoms Accompany Weak Hind Legs?

Sometimes, your dog's legs shake, but not all of the time. And there may be other symptoms that indicate a problem you'll need to take care of rather than ignore.

Other symptoms may include:

• Indifference to exercise. If your dog suddenly doesn't seem to care about walks or playing, it may be cause for concern.
• A lack of coordination or balance, including stumbling and staggering into furniture.
• Limping, or an inability to walk for longer distances, or even support their own weight.
• Whining, barking, snapping, or other signs of distress if you touch their hindquarters.
• Loss of bladder or bowel control, which indicates something more than just muscle weakness.

In general, "back leg weakness" is a broad symptom of many possible issues, including something as simple as excitement.

That's why it's important to look for other signs of something wrong.

What Are Benign Reasons Your Dog's Hind Legs Shake?

First, let's get a few of the safer causes out of the way.

In many of these cases, hind leg weakness, shaking, or quivering is not a sign of concern. You’ll notice a common theme in these reasons – they are tied to an external factor that you’re likely able to identify.

The first is simply that you've had a long day of play and exercise. Think about it; if you go out on a hike and walk for miles up and down a mountain, your legs are going to be tired and might shake when you try to stand up.

The same goes for your pupper; they don't necessarily know when to quit, and they'll work their muscles to the point of exhaustion if they're having fun.

So, if your pup spent a full afternoon at the dog park going full speed playing with friends, it wouldn’t be surprising for their muscles to respond accordingly.

Another common cause is fear. Particularly in very small breeds, like Chihuahuas, the world can be a scary place full of loud noises and unexpected surprises.

Trembling and shaking are a fear response (in people, too!) and isn't immediately dangerous.

It does mean your pup is uncomfortable and afraid, though, so it can be worth trying to figure out why to see if you can reduce or eliminate the cause.

Excitement is similar.

When your pup is excited and happy, they'll want to express that energy. Tail wagging is only the beginning; they may be just as prone to trembling and shaking as they try to restrain themselves from jumping up and after whatever is making them so happy.

Another equally common reason is of course, cold.

If it's cold in your house, or if you've just come in from a winter walk, your furry friend is probably just chilled!

You'll want to give them some lukewarm water to drink (not hot water; their mouths are sensitive) and a blanket. If they're damp from rain or snow, dry them off first so they don't lose body heat to evaporation.

It’s also a good idea to be aware of when it’s too cold to walk your dog and opt for a quick in and out potty session instead.

In puppies, hind leg shaking might be a temporary side-effect of getting their vaccinations.

Just like your arm might be sore after the flu shot, your puppy might have sore muscles in their hind legs after shots to the rear. This generally resolves in a day or two.

Certain breeds, like Maltese, can develop "shaker syndrome" during early adulthood.

This is a nerve defect in the brain that causes shaking and tremors. It's also easily treatable with a few weeks of attention and some prednisone, but will require a vet visit to diagnose and treat.

Age is also a frequent contributor to hind leg tremors. As dogs get older, parts of their bodies start to wear out. Sometimes, that means their legs just don't work as well anymore and shake as their motor control deteriorates.

You'll want to talk to your vet to make sure there isn't an underlying reason for this, but sometimes there's nothing you can do but help them out when they need to move around.

What Are the Dangerous Causes of Back Leg Quivering?

First of we have general pain, which is a common cause of shaking.

Pain from an injury can lead to shaking as if their legs want to give out on them but aren't quite to that point yet.

This pain can come from an acute injury like a strain, sprain, break, or bruise. It can also come from more chronic conditions, like osteoarthritis, the deterioration of the bones and joints over time.

“Osteoarthritis is the most common form of arthritis in dogs and is a degenerative joint disorder that leads to a permanent deterioration of the cartilage that provides cushioning for the joints. This painful condition is estimated to affect about a quarter of all dogs throughout their lifetime.” – Sharon Lakes Animal Hospital

If your dog is younger and you don't think there is an injury, there might be a case of hip dysplasia at play.

Hip dysplasia is a hip joint that doesn't fit right, so it's prone to weakness, dislocation, and pain. It’s more commonly seen in larger dogs but can happen in any breed.

Dogs with hip dysplasia tend to rely more on their front legs, which leads to decreased muscle strength in the hind legs, further leading to weaker back legs and more shaking. Hip dysplasia can be addressed with surgery.

One of the main diseases that causes weak and shaking back legs is degenerative myelopathy. This disease, also known as DM, is a spinal disease inherited via genetics.

You can compare DM with Lou Gehrig’s disease (aka ALS) that’s seen in humans. DM is more common in some breeds, particularly German Shepherds, Collies, Huskies, Pugs, and Boxers, and it progresses as the dog gets older.

DM causes deterioration of the spinal cord, which leads to muscle wasting that progressively gets worse over time. It can be delayed through exercise and an ongoing healthy diet, but it unfortunately doesn't stop the disease.

Another common disease is intervertebral disc disease, or IVDD. IVDD is similar to what we people get in the form of a slipped or herniated disc.

The spine is a series of hollow bones, separated by gel-like cushions that keep them separate and safe.

As your dog ages, the composition of those cushions breaks down, and they can slip out of place. Not only is this painful on its own, but it can also cause vertebra to rub against one another painfully and causes nerve damage.

While it can happen to any dog, IVDD is more common in certain breeds, namely Dachshunds, Beagles, Shih Tzus, Cocker Spaniels, and Pekingese.

IVDD is treatable, though options will depend on the severity of the disease. Cases caught early will likely be treated with medication and movement restrictions.

Surgery will likely be recommended in more progressed cases. If left untreated, it can lead to paralysis.

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Similarly, Addison's Disease also called hypoadrenocorticism, can also cause hind leg quivering. It's a hormone condition where your dog's glands aren't producing cortisol or aldosterone, leading to imbalances with kidneys and other issues.

This is a problem with the adrenal glands, and while it can be managed, it can be difficult to diagnose.

“The condition (Addison’s disease) may be inherited in Standard Poodles, West Highland White Terriers, Great Danes, Bearded Collies, Portuguese Water Dogs, and a variety of other breeds. Although the disease can be seen in any breed, sex, or age, it is most common in young, female, adult dogs.” – Merck Veterinary Manual

There are other causes as well, though this is not meant to be an all-inclusive list:

• Diabetes
• A bad diet
• Snake bites
• Torn ACL
• Dislocated kneecaps
• Broken bones
• Seizures
• Cancers
• Cushing's Disease
• Toxicity from certain medications
• Electrolyte imbalances
• Poisoning from eating something toxic, like chocolate, pesticides, cleaners, toothpaste, and some houseplants.

The sheer variety of causes of weak, shaking, or quivering back legs is why it's generally a good idea to call your vet and bring your pup in for an examination.

The bottom line is pretty much any cause of weakness and shaking legs (other than exhaustion, cold, or fear) is something you want to get treated right away.

What Can You Do if Your Dog Has Weak Hind Legs?

If your dog has weakness, shaking, and quivering hind legs, there are some things you can do to help.

The first thing is check for some of the more common benign causes. If your pup pal is scared, cold, or tired, all you need to do is comfort them, warm them up, and let them rest.

There's no need to call a vet or otherwise pursue advanced treatment when all you really need is a blanket and some time, right?

If you’ve discarded any benign reason and suspect something else is going on, you'll want to call your vet.

They can walk you through a few signs to watch for to determine whether or not you should schedule a regular appointment or bring them in for an emergency examination. Acute pain and abrupt-onset symptoms might necessitate an emergency visit, for example.

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You may also need to work on their diet. Picking the right food (free from fillers and made from healthy ingredients) is important. So, too, are supplements.

There are a variety of supplements you can try, including glucosamine, MSM, and hyaluronic acid. If pain is an issue, you might even consider trying CBD for dogs.

Exercise (and an appropriate amount of rest) can be an important part of a treatment plan. Many causes of weak and shaking back legs are forms of muscle weakness, and exercise can help strengthen those legs and help reduce tremors.

Check out what Dr. Sarah Woten, DVM recommends for exercising a dog with hip dysplasia:

If the cause of the issue is something like arthritis or an injury, exercise may do more damage than good, so it's important to understand why your fur baby is shaking first.

Depending on the cause of the issue, your vet might recommend a variety of different treatment options.

These can range from shots of steroids, medication like anti-inflammatories, or physiotherapy, all the way to surgery.

In the case of degenerative diseases, there may not be much you can do, especially for an older dog. Just try to make them comfortable, assist them with mobility, and invest in mobility assistance devices.

What Are Mobility Assistance Devices?

Mobility assistance devices are tools you can use to help your dog get around when their legs are weak.

An easy option is a bed ramp or a small set of stairs, so your pup can get up to higher places they like to settle, like your couch or your bed. Since they can't use those weak hind legs to jump, they need the help.

Another option is a harness with a handle. This gives you an easy way to help your dog stand up and move around when they need to, and they come in sizes appropriate for any breed.

If your vet suspects that your dog will eventually lose all control over their back legs, you might want to get a doggy wheelchair.

A canine wheelchair is a set of wheels that can attach to their hind legs in a way that keeps their back straight and gives them more freedom of movement with just their front legs.

Of course, they won't be able to jump, but they'll be a lot more capable of running around. There are also "drag bags" that can protect their hind legs and stomach from scraping the ground when they aren't in their chairs.

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Tell Us Your Tail

Have you had a dog that had hind legs that shake, tremor, or give out on them? It's distressing, but maybe your story can help others recognize symptoms in their own fur babies before something bad gets worse. Tell us your story and help each other out!

Remember, shaking hind legs can be perfectly benign. When an underlying condition is the culprit, many have treatment options.

Many dogs live for years with limited mobility or with shaking legs and are still perfectly happy to just be with you and the rest of their family.

When in doubt, it's always best to be safe rather than sorry, so if you are ever hesitant about what to do, consulting with your vet is never a bad option.

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In it, she's holding her sweet fur baby, and she says,

"I've only had Arlo for a day and a half, but if anything happened to him, I would kill everyone in this room and then myself."

Now, this is an over-the-top comedic reaction, but really, we all love our puppies, and we'd do just about anything to see them kept safe.

One of the many things we can do for our newborn pups is to get them vaccinated against the awful diseases that can make their lives bad or even end them prematurely.

The question is, how many vaccinations are there, and how many do puppies need? Let's dig in.

Why Does My Puppy Need Vaccines to Begin With?

Puppies just like human babies are vulnerable to disease. Upon birth, they receive very potent antibodies that provide protection against ubiquitous, devastating, and life-threatening diseases, such as rabies and distemper.

Unfortunately, these maternal antibodies start to wear off at around 9-16 weeks of age. At that point puppies become very vulnerable to disease. Vaccines are the most effective way to provide your puppy with good health, longevity, and a good quality of life.

This is not to say or imply that vaccines are 100% risk free. Not at all.

Check out this 4-minute video by Dr. Clayton Greenway from Health care for pets about Vaccine Reactions in Dogs and Cat

Everything you need to know about vaccine reactions for dogs and cats

However, a very important consideration is that the benefits of vaccinating your puppy outweigh the risks.

To put things in perspective, here's a quote from the American Animal Hospital Association regarding dog vaccines.

“Vaccinations not only protect pets, but also play a role in protecting humans. Approximately 59,000 people worldwide die each year from rabies, according to the World Health Organization, but only one or two deaths occur in the US, where laws require pets to be vaccinated…Widespread vaccination means that few pets get rabies and few humans are exposed.” - American Animal Hospital Association

What Are Core Vs. Non-Core Vaccinations for Puppies?

Before getting too deep, one thing you might find helpful to know is the difference between core and non-core vaccinations.

Core vaccinations are vaccines given to every puppy, barring exceptional circumstances.

These are given because the diseases they protect against are common, ubiquitous, and usually deadly, but the good news is, they are also preventable.

There are zero reasons not to give them and every reason to do so, so they're recommended for every single puppy.

Non-core vaccinations are "optional" vaccinations. They're still usually a good idea to get, but you might not need to get all of them.

For example, a vaccination against Lyme exists, but if you don't live in an area where Lyme is common and you don't intend to travel to such a location with your pup, you may opt to forego the vaccine.

It doesn't hurt to give it to them anyway, but you aren't required to do so.

What Are the Core Vaccinations for Puppies?

Now that we know there are two groups of vaccines, you’re probably wondering which ones are core. The good news is, there aren’t many, but we’ll talk about each one.

DHP – This is a combined vaccination that covers three different diseases. They are Distemper, Hepatitis/Adenovirus, and Parvovirus.

Rabies – As the name suggests, this is the vaccine against rabies. Since rabies has no real cure (or rather, science is still working on finding one, and while there are a few promising studies, nothing is in production yet), the vaccine is critical.

“Rabies is a virus that is transmitted through the saliva of an infected animal. Rabies attacks the brain and central nervous system of infected animal. Once symptoms appear, the virus is almost always fatal. Dogs are the most common animal that spreads the rabies virus to humans.”- Rebecca F. Wish | Michigan State University

That's it! If you live in an area where Lyme disease is common, the Lyme vaccine might be considered core for you, and if you plan to have social dogs or bring your dog to shows, other vaccinations may be considered core, but for the most part, everything else is non-core.

What Are the Non-Core Vaccinations for Puppies?

There are quite a few additional vaccinations you can give your puppy. It's usually a good idea to talk to your vet and ask them which vaccinations they recommend.

Non-core vaccinations include:

• Parainfluenza, which is a form of the flu. Depending on what vaccine combo your vet uses, this could be combined with the DHP vaccine mentioned above, but this additional protection is called the DHPP vaccine.
• Leptospirosis, which is a common bacteria found in soil and water. The disease can be mild or fatal, with little rhyme or reason as to which, but since it's easy to vaccinate against, it's a common vaccine for puppies.
• Bordetella, which is an upper respiratory infection not too dissimilar from COVID. It's also commonly known as "kennel cough" because it spreads in kennels, doggy daycares, and other areas where many dogs socialize with one another.
• Canine Influenza, which is another version of the flu. The flu is extremely common in humans and many animals, and there are thousands of variants, but the canine vaccine handles two of the most common and dangerous varieties. You will likely need annual boosters for your fur baby to keep them safe, just like you should get your own flu shots every year too.
• Lyme. As mentioned above, Lyme may or may not be an issue in your area. If it is, it's a good idea to get the vaccine for your furry friend.
• Giardia. Giardia is a parasite that can cause intestinal problems in dogs and can be devastating if it isn't caught early. Luckily, there's a vaccine against even this parasite, which can be given to your puppy any time after they're 8 weeks old. Unfortunately, the vaccine only lasts for about six months, so regular boosters are a must to keep up that protection.
• Coronavirus. Yup, the coronavirus in general wasn’t a new thing in 2020. "Coronavirus" is actually a very broad category with dozens of different primary types and uncountable subspecies and mutations. The version of the coronavirus that dogs commonly get is not the same as the one people get. This coronavirus vaccine only protects against canine coronavirus or CCoV.
• Rattlesnake. No, you can't vaccinate your dog against snakes in general. What you can do is vaccinate them against the toxic effects of rattlesnake venom in case they happen to get bitten by a snake. For obvious reasons, this isn't required in areas where rattlesnakes aren't common.

Most of these vaccines are shots, though the Bordetella vaccine can be given orally or nasally. Many of them also require periodic boosters, either annually or whenever you're going to travel.

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How Many Shots Does Your Puppy Need?

This one is tricky to answer because it depends on the variant of the vaccines being given.

For example, if you're getting a DHP vaccine and a Parainfluenza vaccine, they might be two separate shots, or they might be combined into one (known as DHPP). There's also a five-course shot that includes Leptospirosis called DHLPP.

At the same time, many of these vaccines are two-shot courses, or more, similar to how our COVID vaccine was two shots with boosters.

At the bare minimum, your puppy might need five or six shots to get the full initial course of the DHP and Rabies vaccines.

A full course of all of the vaccines might be more like 12-14 shots over the course of the first year or two of your puppy's life. After that, they'll still need boosters, but only every couple of years.

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• How to Keep Dog Paws from Getting Burnt on Hot Pavement
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What Does a Puppy Vaccination Schedule Look Like?

A puppy vaccination schedule starts when your fur baby is around 6-8 weeks old. At this age, they're young, sensitive, and potentially exposed to many diseases.

They're also starting to socialize, run around, and get into things, which puts them at high risk.

Here's what a vaccination schedule might look like.

• 6-8 weeks old: your puppy will get their first vaccinations, along with a checkup and any other medications your vet might recommend. This appointment will generally include the first shot of the DHP or DHPP vaccine, along with the Bordetella and Lyme vaccines if necessary.
• 10-14 weeks old: your puppy will be back for a checkup and to make sure everything is going fine with them. They'll get their second shots for DHP/DHPP, Bordetella, and Lyme. If your vet recommends it, this is also the time when they'll get their first shot of the Leptospirosis (Lepto) vaccine as well.
• 16-20 weeks old: your puppy comes in for another checkup. If all goes well, this is when they'll get their final course of DHP/DHPP, Bordetella, and Lyme. They'll get their second shot of Lepto if they got the first, and they'll get their first shot of the Rabies vaccine if your state laws recommend it that early.

From here, it all depends on your vet and your vaccination schedule. Rabies vaccines, for example, will need a second shot around one year old, and boosters every 1-3 years after that to keep up the protection.

Some vets are starting to recommend adding another shot of DHP/DHPP at 18 months to refresh coverage as well.

So, for something like DHPP, your pup might get shots at 7 weeks, 11 weeks, 15 weeks, 19 weeks, 1 year, and every three years after that to make sure coverage keeps up.

Again, some of these vaccinations are required, and some are not, and it may depend on your circumstances. Don’t worry, your vet will guide you through the process.

Is It Illegal to Not Vaccinate a Puppy?

If we set aside the question of why you might want to avoid vaccinations (there's no good reason to avoid them unless your puppy is immunocompromised in the first place; not vaccinating them puts them in danger that can be avoided or prevented entirely), some people might be curious what the legality is of the vaccination system.

The answer is yes; it's generally illegal to skip vaccinations, at least the DHP and Rabies vaccinations in most states. Other vaccinations – the non-core vaccinations – may be mandated by laws in some areas but are not generally mandated across the country.

There's no firm answer to this question because it's down to state law to determine what vaccinations are required at what ages.

You'll need to check with your vet and with your state laws to determine what the vaccination list should be unless you plan to be safe and give your puppy every vaccination they can get, so they're as protected as possible.

For example, this map contains a list of the applicable laws for the rabies vaccination in every state. Check it to see what your state has to say about the issue (at least, as of the last time that site was updated), and double-check with your vet to make sure.

How Can You Track What Vaccines Your Puppy Has Been Given?

If you're concerned about the number and frequency of vaccinations, you don't have to be. For one thing, when you get vaccines from your vet, you will also be given paperwork to keep and records of their vaccinations.

Now, sure, you might not want to keep that paperwork on hand at all times, but that's fine, too; your vet will have records of your puppy's vaccinations, both physically and electronically.

The only risk you might encounter is if your vet closes, and even then, records are generally transferable.

Are Puppy Vaccinations Expensive?

Luckily, no. Everyone wants what's best for their puppy and for all puppies everywhere, and that means vaccinations generally aren't too expensive.

Especially not when compared to the vet bills of treating a dog that catches a preventable illness!

A full course of the core vaccinations will usually run about $100-$200, depending on where you live and what your vet charges.

Full courses of every vaccine you can possibly give to your puppy are going to be more expensive, of course, but even then, it's still pretty reasonable.

There might also be local ways you can get vaccinations at a discount or even free if there are community organizations or other aid groups that can help you out.

Check out your local animal shelter as they often provide these services at a lower rate than your vet. Just be sure to give a copy of the vaccinations to your vet so your records are all in one place.

Can You Vaccinate Against Worms, Fleas, or Other Parasites?

Unfortunately, no. There aren't any long-lasting or permanent treatments available for things like heartworms, tapeworms, ticks or fleas.

This is because any existing medications that deal with these infections are chemical in nature – that is, they enter your dog's system, do their work, and are metabolized out.

They don't interface with your fur baby's immune system and can't provide permanent protection.

That's not to say there won't be a vaccine in the future. Medical technology is always improving, and the development of mRNA vaccines like the COVID vaccine in humans helps push technology forward.

It's entirely possible that new vaccines will be developed in the coming years that can protect against even more problems. In the meantime, you’ll have to stick with oral or topical preventatives.

Do You Have Other Questions?

If you have any questions about vaccinations or really anything else about your puppy (or kitty), feel free to ask! I love fur babies of all kinds, and I'm always around to help out in any way I can.

I also love hearing your stories, so even if all you want to do is share a fun tale of your fuzzy tails, go right ahead.

If you’re reading this article it’s because you're wondering, is constipation normal in kittens? When should I be concerned?

The fact of the matter is, constipation in kittens is neither rare, nor is it imminently dangerous. However, it's always worth keeping an eye out and making sure everything is going alright, eventually.

A constipated kitten is an uncomfortable kitten. They're all stopped up and, just like when it happens to us, might have some pains, cramping, or just uncomfortable bloating.

So, what causes constipation in kittens? At what point do you need to take action, and what kinds of actions should you take?

We’ll get to all of that and more. And by the way never, ever, ever miss our educational videos in every blog post.

How Long Has Your Kitten Gone Without Pooping?

Pooping is obviously a normal part of life, but sometimes things don’t go as smoothly as expected. It can happen at any age, but today we’re going to talk about kittens that aren’t pooping.

The first thing to ask yourself is how long has it been since the last time your kitten used the litter box?

Well, that's not quite accurate. A more accurate question would be, how long has it been since the last time your kitten pooped?

If they're not quite litter trained, lack of poo in the box might not be an indication that they're constipated; instead, maybe they found an out-of-the-way corner of the closet, or under a piece of furniture. In this case you’ll probably smell it before you see it!

But what if there is no hidden poop?

If you're pretty sure your kitten hasn't found some out-of-the-way place to do their business, and there's nothing new in the litter box to clean up, it might be time to start worrying, just a little.

First of all, kittens don't necessarily go do their business every day. Depending on a bunch of different factors, they may go once a day or as often as six times a day.

On the other hand, they might skip a day, and that's more or less normal.

When should you start worrying? Usually, if your kitten hasn't gone in two days, then it's time for a vet visit.

What about extremely young kittens?

If your kitten is super young – like, a few days or weeks old – they may not have a fully-functioning body just yet.

A neonatal kitten, one that has just recently been born, is still figuring out this whole "digestion" thing.

In nature, with a mama cat around to help, this is solved through a little stimulation.

The mother instinctually licks at the rear end of her kittens to stimulate them into going. If your tiny furry bean was unfortunately orphaned, well, they might need a little help from you.

But no worries, no licking required here!

"It's also important to understand that neonatal kittens—those under a month of age—may not be physically able to poop without assistance. Young kittens require stimulation from their mother's tongue in order to defecate. If orphaned, they need to be gently stimulated by a caregiver before every meal." – KittenLady.org.

So, if you find yourself caring for a young kitten, you’ll need to learn how to stimulate your little one since they can’t go on their own.

If you’ve never done it before, check out this great video from the Kitten Lady to learn all about stimulating a kitten.

How to Help Baby Kittens Pee and Poop!

What Causes a Kitten to Not Poop?

We’ll begin at the root of the problem. Constipation has a lot of different causes, some of them are common and super easy to fix, while others are less common and potentially more dangerous.

Let's go over them and see what kinds of symptoms you should look for.

As mentioned above, very young kittens need stimulation until their bodies learn what muscles to contract in what order to cause defecation to happen.

If your kitten is brand new out of the box, this might be the issue. It's generally easy to solve with a little manual stimulation of their genitals.

However, this is only relevant if your kitten is a few days or a few weeks old.

Most of the time, once your kitten is around a month or six weeks old, they'll have this pooping thing down pat and won't need manual stimulation to help them out anymore.

So, if your kitty is beyond six weeks, you can rule this issue out.

2. Dehydration

Probably the most common cause of constipation in both kittens and people is dehydration.

The bowels need moisture to keep stool soft as it passes through. Without water, poo will harden and seize up, becoming extremely difficult or impossible to pass.

Dehydration will inevitably lead to constipation. Your kitten may be visiting the litter box, but nothing comes out, and they may cry about it because they're trying, straining, and it's not happening, or it's even painful.

And if anything comes out, it's small, hard clumps, like pebbles of poo.

Even if you keep a water bowl for them, some cats end up preferring running water and have an aversion to water that has been sitting in a bowl. This is actually an instinctual behavior.

Still or stagnant water is often full of nasty organisms, so cats will seek a moving source. Dehydration is also more probable if you give your kitten dry food and not wet food since they have less moisture making its way into their systems.

“Feeding wet food and/or adding water to food is another good way to increase water intake; and, in some cases, flavoring the water with a small amount of either water from a can of tuna or low sodium chicken broth can prompt a cat to drink more.” - College of Veterinary Medicine; Cornell University.

Dehydration is only a cause for concern if it continues. Luckily, it's also pretty easy to solve, so long as you figure out how to give your kitten water in a way they'll drink. You might need to change their water bowl frequently or get a fountain for them.

Here are some tips to get your kitten to drink more water:

• Food, drinks, and toilets do not go together with cats. Try keeping the water bowl away from the food bowl and litter box.
• Exposed sitting water may not taste as good. Try washing the water bowl every day. Thoroughly rinse it and refill with fresh yummy water.
• Many cats do not like it when their whiskers touch the edge of a bowl when drinking. Try using a wide-brimmed bowl.
• Just like us, cats prefer to eat and drink out of ceramic, glass, or metal bowls – Avoid plastic bowls as they can taint the water.
• Some kittens might be put off by the taste of chlorine especially if they are rescues and were used to drinking water from natural sources. Consider buying natural spring water or try collecting rainwater for your kitten to drink while slowly transition them to tap water.
• As mentioned above, instinctually cats often prefer to drink from a running water source. Try a cat water fountain.
• Try using different types of water bowls in different places. Watch and learn what type of bowl and location your kitten prefers to drink from.

Read More Cat Behavior Guides

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• Why Do Cats Bite and Then Lick You?
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3. Obstructions

Curious kittens will chew, bite and lick, interacting with pretty much anything using their mouths.

Things like hair ties, floss, ribbons, and other small items end up eaten and work their way into your kitten's intestines. Once there, they get tangled up and can cause a bowel obstruction.

Bowel obstructions are dangerous because your kitten's digestion is still working and still trying to get stuff past the obstruction, but it won't move.

This is usually painful. Moreover, in extreme cases, a bowel obstruction can cut off blood flow to a section of the bowel or even perforate it if something hard or sharp gets lodged in there.

Young kittens might also end up with hairballs that cause obstructions because they're learning how to groom themselves and haven't yet figured out how to hock up that hair instead of swallowing it.

Remember their little tongues have barbs that angle toward their throat, so once something is attached, it’s headed into their digestive tract.

Obstructions are more dangerous than dehydration, and if you suspect that your kitten swallowed something that's causing an obstruction, you should take them to the vet. You don't want to end up with bowel problems or something worse happening.

Case in point: My little kitten nephew, Loki managed to consume a foam portion of his human brother’s toy without him noticing. The first unusual symptom they noticed is that he began throwing up.

Then he stopped eating. Not eating is always a warning sign, well so too is repeated purging.

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Sometimes throwing up is the result of your kitty eating too fast, other times it can be a sign of inflammatory bowel disease, so don’t jump to the conclusion that your kitty has an obstruction just because they throw up.

I digressed, back to Loki. When his symptoms didn’t improve it was time for a vet visit, which showed a foreign object in his intestines.

The vet had to surgically remove the object. Thankfully the little guy made it through with no complications and was sent home with meds, a funny haircut, and the cone of shame. The remainder of the offending toy went into the trash.

Unfortunately, these kinds of scenarios aren’t uncommon. Some cats even have pica and will eat all sorts of things they shouldn’t.

If you have a kitten in your home, just like a toddler, you need to kitten-proof your house as best as you can. Remove access to electrical cords and pick up any small objects that your kitten could possibly get in their mouth.

Doing a little prep work will help remove otherwise harmless items that could turn into dangerous obstructions.

4. Parasites

Another somewhat common cause of intestinal blockage is parasites.

Cats are no stranger to worms – many animals end up with them at some point – and they can range from slightly annoying to dangerous.

In kittens, with bodies that are smaller and more vulnerable to parasites, something like roundworms can grow out of control.

In some cases, the sheer number of worms can cause a blockage.

How can you tell if your cat has worms? There are a bunch of signs, including constipation. They may also have:

• Vomiting, particularly when they try to eat and can't keep it down.
• Weight loss, because their intestines are full of worms, and they can't keep food going through.
• Dull fur, because the loss of vitamins and nutrients is showing through.
• A potbellied look, because the worms are all bunched up in the gut causing it to swell up.
• Worms in their poo if they do manage to go. They'll look like short bits of spaghetti (hopefully you aren’t eating pasta).

Parasites are at least relatively easy to handle.

Antiparasitic medications will kill them off, allowing them to either be digested or expelled in the next bowel movement, but these meds will need to come from your vet.

Roundworms are exceptionally common, and as such, one of the recommended treatments for a new kitten is to have preventative antiparasitic medication.

These treatments are generally given every couple of weeks when your kitten is between three and nine weeks old and monthly after that.

There are also other kinds of worms, like hookworms, tapeworms, and heartworms, that can show up (and be prevented by medication), but if constipation is a main symptom, chances are that roundworms are the most likely parasite.

5. Congenital Defects

Our fifth and final cause your kitten is unable to poop is also the least likely cause.

If your kitten has had trouble with defecation from the onset, there's a chance that they have a congenital defect.

These abnormalities in anatomy can occur pretty much anywhere and can range from superficial (like polydactyly; having an extra toe) to defects in the heart or brain that are, in medical terms, "incompatible with life."

There are a lot of different potential defects, so much so that the Merck Veterinary Manual has a whole section dedicated to them.

In some cases, a kitten can be born with megacolon. This condition occurs when there are nerve issues within the colon aren’t working properly.

The colon then becomes stretched-out and can no longer serve the function of moving along feces – the result, a kitty that can’t poop.

Megacolon can also be acquired and/or cause by trauma, but this is more common in adult cats.

“Acquired megacolon has many causes, the only real common one being behavioral. Some cats have psychological problems defecating in the litter box. A new type of cat litter may be the cause, or it could be competition with another cat, or the cat may just be a very nervous type. Feces becomes retained and the colon stretches, and, just like a pair of panty hoses the colon loses its’ elasticity.” - Stephen Sheldon, D.V.M.

There is also an unusual congenital defect called atresia ani, where there is no anal opening. While rare, this defect can be corrected with surgery.

What to Do if Your Kitten Isn't Pooping

As with anything related to your kitten’s health, catching any ailment early is critical. And so, the first step in determining what to do if your kitten is not pooping is noticing that s/he is not pooping.

Scooping the litter box is the most dreaded part of cat parenting, no argument here. However, especially for busy pet parents, scooping the litterbox daily is the most effective way to monitor your kitten’s bowel movements.

If your kitten is experiencing some form of constipation, the first thing to do is check their water situation. Watch them throughout the day.

Are they peeing? Are they drinking? Are they vomiting? The answers to these questions can help you figure out what the next step should be.

As discussed above, dehydration is the most common and the easiest of these issues to solve. You may need to figure out if your kitten is averse to standing water and wants flowing water.

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You may also want to check if you have more than one cat, and one of the cats is bullying the other away from the food and water. Each cat should generally have their own bowls and litter boxes for exactly this reason.

If you see signs of worms or other illnesses, you'll want to talk with your vet. You'll probably need medication to give the kitten to help them fight off whatever is ailing them.

Alternatively, you might want to take some casual steps at home, such as:

• Making the litter box more inviting. Some cats want more security or want you to be nearby when they go, and may seem constipated if they don't have that security.
• Change their diet. Some diets may trigger mild allergies or food sensitivities that can lead to poo troubles, so a change in food might be in order.
• Play more. A languid cat is more likely to have constipation since part of what moves the intestines along is physical activity.

As we mentioned earlier, if your kitten hasn’t pooped in 48 hours, give your vet a call, describe the situation, and see if they have any recommendations.

It’s never wrong to call your vet, so don’t feel like you have to wait two days when you are concerned about an issue.

Have you ever had a kitten with constipation problems? If so, what ended up being the issue, and how did you go about handling the situation? Was it something that took a lot of time and effort to resolve, or was it a simple fix? Be sure to let me know down below. Not only would I love to hear your stories, but I'm sure other readers going through similar situations would appreciate it, as well.

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

As always, if you found this content useful, all our blog content on toe beans is shareable. So, what are you waiting for to spread the love? Go ahead and hit any social media icon of your preference around the post for instant sharing with friends and family. Sharing is caring!

We like to call it puppy kisses, but is that really accurate?

Our fur babies love to lick us when they're having fun or when they miss us, but the jury is still out on what the licks actually mean.

You may be wondering, is excessive licking a problem? The key word here is excessive, and the answer is yes. Pretty much anything in excess is going to be a problem, and licking is one of those things.

Let’s get started.

The Many Causes of Excessive Licking in Dogs

If your fur baby is licking you excessively, you'll probably be tired of it.

If they're licking an object excessively, they can wear a hole in the carpet, wear paint off the walls, or leave marks on the furniture.

If they're licking themselves too much, they can wear away at the fur and leave red, raw, irritated patches on their skin. That's when you know you have a problem on your hands.

“Dogs use body language and gestures such as licking to convey information about their feelings and intent.” - Ruth Hegarty, M.S.E.

Some people theorize that dogs lick us just because we taste good to them, from the natural oils, salt, and other stuff that builds up on our skin. Of course, plenty of folks believe licking is just a sign of affection.

The trouble is, there's a difference between a few slurps when you've finished a meal and forgotten a few crumbs or when you've come back from the gym and are covered in delicious salty sweat.

When your fur baby is licking excessively – at you, at themselves, or at an object – it may be a sign that something's wrong.

Our job as a pet parent is to identify the cause of the excessive licking so we can help correct the underlying issue. We’ll start by looking at some of the most common causes of excess licking and then talk about how to address the underlying issue.

1. Boredom

Some dogs get bored easily and will seek out pretty much any kind of stimulation they can find to alleviate that boredom and the frustration that comes along with it.

Often, it starts with licking anything and everything, just to explore the world around them with new senses.

Eventually, it can lead to obsessively licking the same object or spot on the carpet over and over.

That place you spilled spaghetti five years ago? You may not remember, but the carpet does, and it's better than nothing to a bored pop.

2. Anxiety

Anxious pups can exhibit all sorts of behaviors. Licking is often a soothing behavior for puppies, and when your furry friend is anxious, they may turn to those behaviors to try to alleviate it.

This is more often self-grooming (which can lead to painful hot spots) or licking you, depending on the dog.

To help identify anxiety as the cause, try to observe when the licking behavior occurs. Is it during a thunderstorm? Or perhaps when their favorite person leaves the house?

3. Thirst

Have you ever had a dry mouth? When your tongue feels sticky, and your cheeks are rough, and you'd do anything to get a bit of water?

A thirsty dog can feel the same way. Licking helps stimulate the salivary glands to produce a little moisture, and when they're thirsty enough, even that little bit can be blessed relief.

4. Pain

Dogs don't have hands, don't have access to pain meds, and don't have enough of a language to be able to talk about when something hurts.

They just do the best they can to let you know if something is wrong, and they soothe it in any way they can. Often, that means licking.

Licking, when caused by pain, unfortunately, tends to result in more pain if they end up with a hot spot.

Internal pains leading to licking can leave your fur baby patchy and sore. Pain after a surgery leads to licking, too – hence the cone of shame – and even tooth pain can cause licking as your poor pup does anything they can to distract themselves.

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• Why Do Dogs Like Having Their Butts Scratched So Much?
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5. Nausea or GI Issues

If you've ever been sick enough to feel like you're about to vomit but can't quite get there, you know how it messes with your entire system.

You salivate a lot, you swallow or spit, and you do whatever you can to alleviate that upset stomach.

Your fur baby is the same way; if their stomach or their digestive system is upset, they'll seek oral stimulation to try to alleviate it, usually via licking.

This is often accompanied by excessive drooling, too, though it can be hard to tell with certain breeds.

6. Allergies and Itchiness

Itching and scratching is another common reason for excessive licking.

It's pretty much just the same as when you have an itchy spot from a bug bite or a rash. You want to scratch it or rub it to alleviate the itch, though you try to hold off, knowing you'll only make it worse.

With dogs, itching can come from small scrapes and scratches, bug bites, parasites like fleas, ticks, or worms, or even allergies.

Dog allergies can be especially difficult to diagnose and control. Often, your first sign of them is excessive nibbling and/or licking of an area that has been exposed.

7. Infections

Infections, just like wounds and bug bites, often result in both pain and itching, which results in licking to try to alleviate them.

An infection is usually easier to spot, at least. Be sure to keep an eye (and a nose) out for unusual smells that can indicate something else is going on, too.

8. Cognitive Problems

Older dogs can experience a variety of issues as they age, and their brains get old and tired.

Sometimes they start to bark at nothing, sometimes, they forget their tricks or their training, and sometimes they just fixate on something and start licking it.

They may not realize how long they've been licking or remember why they're licking; they just know they enjoy the behavior and they'll keep doing it.

10. Inadvertent Training

When you come home from a long day of work and your pup, happy to see you, hops up on your lap and gives you some licks on the face, what do you do?

If you laugh, you pet them, you praise them, and you give them a treat, guess what? You've just used positive reinforcement to encourage the behaviors that got them rewarded.

They don't realize you're just as happy to see them as they are to see you; they just know that their licking got them treats and praise.

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This is one of the more common causes of excessive licking. It's also easy to handle if you can work on training in the other direction, but it may take some time.

Check out this short educational video on how to train your dog to stop licking you.

How to teach your dog to stop licking you | 3:40 min video

How to Deal with Excessive Licking

As we’ve said, if your fur baby is licking a lot, like, a lot, a lot, it's probably a problem. How you deal with the problem depends on why they're licking.

First, you'll probably want to consult with your vet. Many of the reasons why dogs lick excessively, especially on themselves, are related to pain or illness.

You may want to closely monitor your dog and keep a mental or written journal on a few things before you contact your vet.

• When did the excessive licking start?
• When does it seem to happen?
• For how long does your pup excessively lick?
• Does your dog seem to be easily distracted/stopped from the behavior?
• If yes for the above question, does your dog go right back to it?
• For pet parents that have indoor cameras, does your dog engage in this behavior when no one else is around or does s/he do it just in front of others?
• Have there been any changes in your dog’s environment? Perhaps there is a new member of the family? Or somebody visiting? Or perhaps you recently moved your furniture around? Or maybe there are new noises coming from outside?

Armed with these important information, and anything else you may have observed, your vet will be able to help diagnose what's wrong and can offer you treatment options.

These treatments can be as simple as anti-parasitic medications to get rid of ringworm, a flea treatment to get rid of fleas, or antibiotics to help handle an infection.

In other cases, it may mean you need to have a few teeth pulled, or you may need to have them wear a cone (or an alternative) to prevent them from licking at or worrying at a wound, surgical site, or irritated patch of skin.

Remember, licking from let’s say boredom can lead to a physical issue such as a hot spot. Continued licking is just going to make the problem worse.

When you begin medical or behavioral treatment, you’ll also want to prevent your pup from continuing to lick at the irritated area.

In more extreme cases, your pup's excessive licking might be the first sign of something worse going on under their fur coat.

These issues can range from digestive problems stemming from eating something they shouldn't have, to issues with foods, internal damage or pain, a broken or inflamed joint or limb, or even something like an irritating lump.

Your vet will be able to diagnose these issues and can guide you through the next steps, where relevant.

Here are some things you can do to reduce/manage the incidence of excessive licking.

• You might also need to get in the habit of brushing your pup's teeth. Polishing up those canine canines (get it?) can help stave off tooth decay and mouth issues, which is an important part of their overall health.
• In the case of something like allergies, you'll need to figure out what your pup is allergic to. If it's food or a treat, you'll need to switch it out for something they can handle. If it's environmental, you'll need to figure out what. Are you using a cleaning product that irritates them? Is it pollen season, and some plant they brush up against is getting them? Once you find out what it is, you can help remove it from your routine. I personally know some pups that have been prescribed allergy meds because some irritants you just can’t avoid.
• For those older pups with declining cognition, well, there's not a lot that can be done. It's a sign of things to come and a sad one, so if you don't already have preparations in place, you'll want to get started. Just do your best to tolerate declining training and behavior, and make them comfortable for as long as you can before they pass over the rainbow bridge.

What about other cases? There are plenty of reasons why your fur baby might be licking that don't stem from an easily vet-treatable problem.

In these cases, you generally need to do two things: redirect the behavior and work on training.

Redirecting dog behavior means watching for when they're spending a lot of time licking at something and then distracting them with something else.

It can be a complex toy with a treat inside, it could be a rousing game of fetch with a ball, or it could be working on training a new trick. After all, your fur baby won't be licking if they're too busy catching a ball or learning how to high-five.

Training simply means positive reinforcement of non-licking behaviors. We've written about training before, in the context of nail trimming or recall training, and the concept holds true for lick training too.

As a last resource, you can also consider anti-lick tools if your fur baby is licking themselves or an object they shouldn't be.

• Anti-lick strips are small strips or bandage alternatives that are unpleasant to lick. Some of them use static electricity to tingle the tongue, while others use cayenne to make it a bit of a spicy taste, deterring the behavior. Unless your fur baby loves the hot sauce, but most don't.
• Anti-lick sprays generally use a bittering agent to make a surface extremely bitter and disgusting to taste. These are best used on objects, so if your fur baby is licking at the carpet, furniture, walls, or ceiling, bust out the spray to convince them it's not really as tasty as they think it is.

If your pup has licked an area of skin raw, and your vet has ruled out health issues, it’s time to get into intense observation mode and close surveillance to see if you can identify a pattern of when the licking behavior occurs.

If you think situational or separation anxiety are at play, consider some natural options like CBD for dogs. You can also consider some aromatherapy options, compression jackets, or in extreme cases you can talk to your vet about prescription options.

We mentioned about thirst being a potential cause of excessive licking. Be sure your pup always has fresh water to rule this issue out. Also be sure to bring water on hikes or hot days at the doggy park.

One thing to avoid at all cost though, is punishment or negative reinforcement. As you likely well know already, punishment doesn't work, and aversive behaviors get much harder to effectively train away.

Plus, if you misdiagnosed the problem, you end up punishing your pup for itching or pain that isn't their fault, and that just makes everything worse.

Tell Me About Your Pup

Do you have a dog that has a licking problem or had one in the past? What did it turn out to be, and how did you handle it?

I'm always interested in new solutions (including things I can add to my store if they're effective and natural), and of course, I always love hearing about your adorable furry children.

Additionally, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

As always, if you found this content useful, all blog posts on toe beans are social media shareable. So, what are you waiting for to spread the love? Go ahead and hit any social media icon of your preference around the post for instant sharing with friends and family. Sharing is caring!

It's only been relatively recently that people have discovered cats are largely lactose intolerant, and while they'll happily drink what you give them, it can upset their tummies and cause them all kinds of problems. That's a bowl of milk, though.

What about whipped cream? Can cats have whipped cream as a treat or is it dangerous? Well, the short answer is yes, they can but no, they probably shouldn’t.

However, you can use whipped cream strategically only when and if, needed. I’m sharing a great educational video by the Kitten Lady about this, it’s a must watch!

Today I’ll talk about a cat’s intolerance to lactose, the reasons why cats love milk, dangerous ingredients in whipped cream and some good safe alternatives to whipped cream.

Can Cats Have Whipped Cream as a Treat? Answers Around the Web

Before digging into our own analysis, let's look at what a few other pet sites have to say about the topic.

On one side of the issue, we have MrBossCat.com:

"Our best answer to this question is that, yes, cats can have whipped cream. However, most cats should not have any dairy as they are lactose intolerant. While cats can have a few tablespoons of whipped cream a week, they shouldn't have more than that."

This is backed up by LiveLongAndPawsPurr.com:

"A little bit of dairy, or whipped cream, on special occasions, doesn't cause any damage to your cat's overall health. But continued exposure can eventually cause long-term issues."

On the other hand, some pet experts take a stronger perspective on the issue. Here's one from AskMyCats.com:

"No, in general, cats can't have whipped cream. Healthy cats may tolerate little amounts of whipped cream on rare occasions. Whipped cream, on the other hand, includes chemicals that are harmful to cats. As a result, it is preferable to seek a healthier alternative snack."

When it comes right down to it, all of these blogs are saying more or less the same thing, though. So, let's break it down to discuss how they likely arrived at their answers.

Cats Are Lactose Intolerant

The first thing to discuss was already mentioned above: almost all cats are lactose intolerant. In fact, you might be surprised to hear that most adult animals (and even most people) are lactose intolerant.

It's considered kind of weird that humans drink milk as much as we do, and even then, it's only some cultures that place as much emphasis on it as we do.

Animals (mammals, anyway) drink milk from their mothers as babies but quickly grow out of that phase and start to wean off milk. Most then start to develop an intolerance to the primary sugar in milk, lactose.

This intolerance is caused by a lack of an enzyme (lactase) needed to break down the lactose. Since many humans love the taste of milk, you can find everything from lactose-free milk to medications like Lactaid to help digest that milk sugar.

Anyone who has ever tried milk while being lactose intolerant knows how unpleasant it can be. Digestive issues arise quickly. This can result in anything from bloating, awful flatulence to stomach pain and cramping, vomiting, and diarrhea.

The actual problem is that lactose is a sugar. Sugar breaks down and ferments when certain kinds of bacteria are present, and those bacteria are present in the stomach.

Fermentation creates a lot of gas and sugar alcohol, which bloats up the stomach, causes flatulence and pain, and cycles through to other issues as the body tries to get rid of it. It can be very unpleasant for both humans and kitties!

Now, not all cats are lactose intolerant. Mammals generally lose the digestive enzyme that allows them to process lactose over time. Some lose it very quickly; others lose it slowly, and some don't lose it at all.

This is why some cats can drink milk all day and be fine, and others can clear a room 20 minutes after taking a few laps.

Why Do Cats Love Milk and Cream When It's Bad For Them?

If it's unpleasant to eat dairy, why would cats still go after that milk or whipped cream when it's offered to them? There are a couple of reasons for why cream/milk/dairy is still pretty attractive to a cat.

The first reason is that milk is high in protein and fat, whole milk more so, and heavy cream (the kind of cream used in whipped cream) most of all. Cats are carnivores which means they seek out foods with proteins and fats.

For a cat, this would usually mean meat, but in our homes, dairy based products are another attractive option.

Of course, we don't usually put whipped cream in the same category as ground beef. That's because, to us, whipped cream is packed with sugar and is quite sweet.

Cats don't really have the same taste receptors we do, though, and they don't taste the sugar. All they sense is the fats and proteins in the cream.

It’s worth noting that cats don’t have the ability to taste sweets. My sister, who by the way is a healthcare professional, might disagree with this scientific finding because she once had a kitty that would always try to devour anything she baked!

My only point here is that what’s pleasing to us isn’t the same reason your cat wants dairy based products.

The second reason a cat might be attracted to dairy products is that any unpleasant side effects from eating dairy may be delayed enough that they don't associate the two experiences with one another.

If you've read anything about training cats, you know that you need rapid responses between behavior and reward in order for your feline to associate the two.

Lactose reactions are generally somewhat delayed – it takes time for the cream to hit the digestive system, react poorly, and show symptoms – so your cat likely won't associate the bad feelings with the cream.

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Some Whipped Cream Can Have Dangerous Ingredients

Now, let's get into the dark side of whipped cream for a moment.

Whipped cream is generally made up of three main ingredients: cream, sugar, and air.

It's easy to make on your own if you have a stand mixer, and technically you don't even need the sugar; you just need to whip the cream with air enough to fluff it up.

Many store-bought whipped creams do include added sugar, though. This is because plain cream might taste a little off-putting for many people, and sugar makes it more palatable. As I mentioned above, though, cats can't taste sugar.

Just because they don't taste it doesn't mean they don't process it, though. Even though they're carnivores, their little bodies can process glucose and fructose, and those sugars can cause all kinds of damage.

Sugar in excess can lead to diabetes and obesity, and those can be difficult or impossible to reverse. Remember that the combination of a balanced diet and exercise makes for a healthy cat.

Whipped cream is also largely milk fats, and those milk fats can contribute to obesity in cats. It just keeps going, doesn't it?

If you're buying store-bought whipped cream, especially whipped cream in a can, you're going to find other ingredients that can be bad for cats, too.

• Carrageenan is a stabilizer that helps keep whipped cream from melting. It’s derived from seaweed, which seems safe enough right? The problem is what was found in a 2017 study that found carrageenan could cause intestinal inflammation. Full disclosure, a 2018 review of carrageenan, said the same conclusion couldn’t be drawn and that more research is needed. So, in short, the jury is still out on this one.
• Sugar alternatives cats are obligate carnivores, so they require a meat source to get their nutrition. Those mice out in the wild aren’t covered in sugar much less corn syrup, which is a commonly added sweetener in whipped cream.
• Preservatives are also common in store bought whipped cream.

Up to this point we’ve been talking about true whipped cream, which is generally a limited ingredient item. You might also be familiar with the blue tub of alternative whipped topping in the refrigerator section of the grocery store.

While it’s often used interchangeably with whipped cream as a dessert topping, it’s much less cream and more so processed and artificial ingredients.

These are not limited to high fructose corn syrup, hydrogenated vegetable oil, artificial flavors and colors. Ditch this option if you’re ever considering giving a taste to your kitty.

What About Lactose-Free Dairy?

I mentioned it in passing above, but we humans are pretty clever.

We know some people enjoy milk but are lactose intolerant, so we found a way to make milk that doesn't have lactose in it. Is that kind of milk – as whipped cream – any better for cats?

The answer here is a solid "maybe, but probably not."

• Lactose-free dairy whipped cream is hard to find and still includes plenty of sugar and ingredients like carrageenan.
• Fully vegan whipped creams also include a lot of sugar and oils, which aren't good for your fur baby, no matter how you slice it.
• Many non-dairy alternatives use coconut milk, which is extremely high in fats and sugars, making it almost worse than dairy, even if it doesn't trigger lactose intolerance.

Whipped Cream is Generally Safe for Cats in Small Doses

If you’re going to give your kitty dairy, plain whipped cream is probably the safest option you can give. Why?

Well, whipped cream is whipped, which fluffs the cream up with a lot with air. That means it's a relatively low concentration of dairy and lactose, and other potentially harmful ingredients.

If you're going to use whipped cream, it's almost always better to make it yourself, so neither you nor your furry friends are exposed to the chemicals present in various artificial foods.

When you purchase your heavy whipping cream, be sure to check the ingredient label to confirm there aren’t any additives.

A tablespoon of whipped cream isn't going to cause problems in many cats and can only really be harmful if:

• You give your cat this treat every day or worse, multiple times a day.
• Multiple people give your cat treats, not knowing the others are too.
• Your cat has other health issues, like diabetes or obesity.

So, if you're making yourself dessert and you want to give your furry friend a dab of whipped cream as a treat for being a good baby, well, it's probably not going to hurt them. And while perhaps you shouldn’t, who can resist those begging faces. Am I right?

One big problem is that they tend to remember everything about the whipped cream experience. So the next time you are making desert, they will run to you to beg for it as they associate all your behavior related sounds with the yummy experience.

Remember, cats don’t have sweet taste receptors, so they will likely prefer a more species appropriate treat.

Now, having said that, sometimes a little bit of bad to do good might be justified. For example, you may want to use whipped cream to keep your cat distracted while you perform a necessary procedure on them.

Check out this video by Kitten Lady on how to use whipped cream for the good of your kitty.

I guess that we can all agree that sometimes, giving your cat whipped cream can be justified.

What are Better Treats than Whipped Cream?

Now, all you cat parents out there know just as well as I do that our fur babies are adept at begging just as much as those dogs with their cute puppy eyes. And who can say no to that fuzzy little face?

Treats are an important part of rewarding behaviors and high-value training. And yes, cats can be trained!

So, keeping some high-value treats on hand can be a great idea. Whipped cream is often thought of as one such treat, but as I just extensively analyzed, it's not as good a treat as you might hope.

So, what should you do instead?

• Fish. Little bits of salmon, tuna, or mackerel can be a great little treat for your cat. If you’re making these at home, make sure to exclude all seasonings.
• Meat. A bit of chicken or beef can be a great treat too. While your fur baby can eat it raw, it's usually a better idea to cook it (no spices or salt, please) just to avoid any possible pathogens. Avoid salted cuts like bacon, deli meat, or cold cuts.
• Some Cheese. Certain cheeses are dairy that have had their lactose processed out and can still be a decent little treat, but you still don't want to turn to it very often.
• Egg. A bit of cooked egg can be a good treat for your fur baby too. It's high in protein and low in all the harmful things, but you do need to make sure to cook it properly. Go light on the oil or butter, and avoid salt and other spices.

Now that you know what you should (and shouldn't) be feeding your furry feline friend as a treat, you can start looking to other aspects of your cat's diet.

Treats should always be pretty limited as rewards for your cat since too many of them can lead to feline obesity and other health issues.

Oh, and make sure to approve anything you want to feed them with your vet; if your cat has any health issues, allergies, or other problems, your vet will know what they shouldn't have.

So, to wrap it up, here’s my final two cents on the topic. A small amount of natural whipped cream isn’t going to permanently hurt your kitty. It should however always be avoided for obese kitties and those with diabetes.

It’s just plain excess calories and could cause some digestive upset, but symptoms should pass with no lingering issues.

Sometimes we all want to eat or overeat foods that don’t agree with us, so it’s important to watch your kitty for any digestive symptoms after a dairy based treat.

And since cats can’t taste sweets, consider something more to their liking such as a freeze-dried meat treat!

Tell me, what kind of treats do you give to your feline friend, and which are their favorites? Do they love any of the listed recommendations above? Be sure to let me know! I absolutely love hearing about all your fur babies and the stories they create!

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One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

As always, if you found this content useful, all our blog content on toe beans is shareable. So, what are you waiting for to spread the love? Go ahead and hit any social media icon of your preference around the post for instant sharing with friends and family. Sharing is caring!

Just like with us humans, regular check-ups can help your cat live a longer, happier, and healthier life. Unfortunately, the truth of the matter is, too many pet parents don't bring their cats to the vet as often as they should, and some don't even do it at all. Does this surprise you?

Some of the most common reasons for not taking cats to the vet range from the associated costs to lack of a perceived reason to difficulties in logistics to cat being indoors only to lack of time to “I can always check Dr. google” if something does not feel right, etc.

Whether you agree with any or some of the statements above or not, there are plenty of benefits in bringing your cat to the vet periodically.

When determining how often you should take your cat to the vet the biggest factors to consider are age and health status. Evidently, under normal conditions, a young cat does not need to visit the vet as often as an adult or elder cat.

In this comprehensive FAQ blog post, I discuss what the recommended frequency of vet visits is based on the life stage of your cat as well other common non-age-related reasons for a vet visit.

This post also comes with awesome educational videos. All of them a must watch! If your kitty is in need of care you cannot afford, make sure to read the section about financial resources for pet parents in need.

For pet parents looking for more cat care guides, make sure to not miss the read further section at the bottom. As usual, it is loaded with resources.

Happy reading, learning and sharing!

Why Should You Take Your Cat to the Vet?

Somebody once said an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Do you remember who this was?

No to get into history here but Ben Franklin coined this phrase in 1736 when reminding the citizens of Philadelphia to remain vigilant about fire awareness and prevention.

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This timeless phrase should remind us of the importance of prevention in our lives. When it comes to your cat’s wellness this phrase is of particular relevance.

Us pet parents know that cats are awesome at many things, and that includes hiding pain, ailments, and diseases.

The only way you can ensure your cat stays happy and healthy is by proactively bringing him/her to the vet. Prevention is really the only tool you have with cats.

I can give you so many reasons to proactively and periodically bring your cat to the vet that I could even write a book. Did I just come up with a reason to write another book?

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Well, at any rate, in the best interest of time, here are some at the top of the list:

• Catch health issues in the early stages
• Track your cat’s weight
• Make sure your cat receives all needed vaccines and avoid preventable diseases
• Build a trusting relationship with a family vet
• Help your cat warm up to vet visits
• Get timely help with behavioral issues (aggression, elimination, and other issues)
• Ensure optimal dental health
• Keep your human family members from catching feline zoonotic diseases. I while back I wrote a post on 5 ways to lessen your chance of catching a bug from your fur baby.

The list goes on and on but by now I’m sure you get the point. If you’ve never brought your cat to the vet, just remember it’s never late for a first visit.

And in case you're wondering what happens during a first vet visit, Dr. Susan Sabatini from Ontario Veterinary College gives a great run down in the video below.

Cat First Vet Visit

Internet memes would have you believe that cats are aloof, independent creatures, but us cat parents know they can be just as snuggly and playful as their pup counterparts.

Our fur babies look to us to love them and care for them so they can live long healthy lives.

Part of love and care means taking them to the vet, whether they put up a fight about it or not.

Of course, we all know that sometimes a vet trip can be tricky, it can be stressful for you and your kitty, sometimes it can also be scary when a procedure is needed or emotional when a new diagnosis is revealed.

Did we mention it can also be pricey?

As such, you probably don't want to make a vet trip more often than is necessary. So, how often do you need to take your cat to the vet? As noted above, the biggest determining factors are age and health status. Let's talk about each of them!

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When Should You Take Newborn Kittens to the Vet?

You might know by now that we are advocators of adopt, don’t shop – so odds are you’re not going to encounter many newborn kittens – unless you regularly rescue catermelons (a pregnant momma that often resembles a watermelon).

But what if a stray adopts you and gives birth to a litter of little ones? Or if you find orphaned kittens because something terrible has happened to their mother?

When they're first born, kittens are both blind and deaf, and as you may imagine will need round-the-clock care and attention from their feline mother.

But they can always benefit from some assistance from their pet parent, and then ultimately their vet.

It’s maybe worth mentioning that being a completely hands-on pet parent is a necessity if momma cat is not around, but we’re not going to dive into that in this post.

Newborn kittens should be seen by a vet as soon as possible. You'll need to bundle up the potentially anxious mother and all of her little furballs for their first adventure as a family.

An early vet visit is imperative for an unvetted momma and her babies. Momma cats that have spent their life outside may carry parasites that they pass onto their kittens. Viral and bacterial infections are also common.

Bringing the little ones to the vet early will help identify these issues so that they can be treated in a timely manner.

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How Often Should You Take Older Kittens to the Vet?

Kittens generally need vet visits every 3-4 weeks (about once a month) for the first 2-5 months of life.

These visits are checkups to test for any diseases or parasites that might threaten the health of the kitten.

You'll also get them the first set of their vaccinations, blood testing for things like FIV, and a physical examination. You may also be asked to bring a stool sample along with them for each visit.

Just like human vaccinations, there are core vaccines for cats and kittens and non-core vaccines that your vet may recommend based on other risk factors. Core kitten vaccines include the following:

• Feline Distemper (also known as FVRCP). This vaccine protects against Feline Rhinotracheitis Virus/Herpesvirus 1 (FVR/FHV-1), Feline Calicivirus (FCV), and Feline Panleukopenia (FPV)
• Feline Leukemia (FeLV)
• Rabies

Check out what Dr. Hill has to say about vaccines:

In addition to vaccines, the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) endorses the recommendation from the Veterinary Task Force on Feline Sterilization for Age of Spay and Neuter Surgery which found cats should be sterilized (spayed or neutered) before they reach 5 months of age.

Some veterinarians are trained to perform spay and neuter surgeries on very young kittens, but in general the minimum requirement is the kitten must be at least 8 weeks old and weigh 2 pounds or more.

Many rescues have a requirement that they won’t adopt out a kitten that hasn’t been sterilized. By safely performing the surgery sooner rather than later allows the kittens to be adopted earlier so they begin their lives with their new family.

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How Often Should You Take Young Adult Cats to the Vet?

Cats ranging from seven months to six years old can be considered young adult cats.

You’ll often seen this broken down as “Junior,” which goes from 7 months to about 2 years old, and “Prime” up to 6 years old. As a Junior, your kitty will finish growing somewhere between 12 and 18 months of age.

“Kittens usually stop growing at approximately 12 months of age, although they still may have some filling out to do.” – Dr. Nicole Fulcher

Young adult cats are frisky and full of energy, settling into their habits and lifestyles. This time of life often involves exploring their home and taste testing the world around them.

Once they are fully vaccinated, young adult cats only need to be taken to the vet once a year. If you haven’t done so already, be sure to ask your vet about micro-chipping your kitty so if you ever get separated you can be reunited.

While young adult cats tend to be nice and healthy at this point in life, regular checkups allow your veterinarian to compare year over year values to see if a harmful change is beginning to trend.

Vet visits during this stage of life, will include a comprehensive physical examination to check for any possible issues.

As noted earlier, cats are notorious for hiding minor ailments, illnesses, and injuries, so a thorough examination can catch things you might have missed.

In addition to an exam, your cat will likely have some blood drawn to check for any signs of disease, chemical imbalances, or other issues that may need proactive attention.

Remember, many ailments and diseases, caught early, can be cured or mitigated before they become life-altering problems.

These annual visits will also be an opportunity to check for parasites via a stool sample and to update your cat on their vaccines. You can expect a rabies booster annually (or every 3 years in some states).

Non-core adult vaccines might also be recommended depending on the lifestyle your cat leads.

Do you have other pets in the home? Does your kitty go outside, or are they indoor-only? These can have an impact, and you'll want to discuss them with your vet. You’ll also get refills for flea and tick treatments at these appointments.

As your kitty begins to transition from a young adult to a more mature adult, your vet is going to focus more attention on their mouth. A whopping 85% of cats over the age of 4 have some form of periodontal disease! And did you know dental health is directly related to overall health?

“It has been said by veterinary dental specialists that if you brush your dog’s or cat’s teeth regularly that they will live to 17 or 18 years old. If you don’t your pet may only live until around age 12. Though that may not always be true, the principal is that regular dental care will extend both the quality and lifespan of your pet and prevent many future diseases.” – Westside Animal Hospital

Your vet will let you know when it’s time for a teeth cleaning. While sedated, your vet will be able to thoroughly clean your kitty’s teeth and remove any tartar that’s built up. You can read about how my Moosie made out with his dental cleaning here.

How Often Should You Take Mature Adult Cats to the Vet?

When your kitty is around 7 to 10 years old, you’ll start to see their energy levels taper off and they’ll prefer to spend time snuggled up in a cozy sunbeam or lap rather than running around being a rambunctious bundle of fur.

That's not to say they'll spend all their time sleeping – far from it – but they certainly won’t be as active as their younger counterparts.

During this stage of life, you will still want to take your cat to the vet at least once a year. Many of the same checkups will happen, including the physical, bloodwork, and stool sample, as well as continued vaccination boosters.

Your vet will also want to review things like diet and weight. Cats that are overweight often start to have trouble as they age. From pain in their joints to thyroid problems or diabetes.

My angel Moo ended up with diabetes as a result of his unaddressed obesity. We can all agree that there is nothing more adorable than a chunky cat. But believe me, you do not want to put your cat through obesity. I have a lot of lessons learned.

Many of these problems are much more easily addressed when they haven’t had time to set in and do more damage. Being proactive about dietary and activity changes can be important part of maintaining good health.

While many mature adult cats remain healthy, it’s not uncommon for some health issues to start to emerge. It's simply a fact of a life well-lived that bodies start to fail in various ways; it's not a reflection upon you or your care or love for them.

A kitty that is around 10 years old is about 56 in human years (give or take depending on what cat-to-human age converter you use) so they may need some help to maintain their well-being.

A decline in kidney function is very common during this period of life, so you may need to begin a special diet or start administering medications.

Read More Cat Care Guides

• How to Buy Catnip for Cats
• Is Your Cat's Tail Injured? Look for These Telltale Signs
• Understanding Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) in Cats
• Introducing a Cat to Dogs in Your Home: Step-by-Step Guide

How Often Should You Take Senior Cats to the Vet?

Once your cat passes ten years of age, they have officially earned the title of senior.

Most domestic cats live between 12 and 18 years, though cats that spend time outdoors often have a shorter lifespan, due to predators, unfortunate encounters with vehicles, more interactions with parasites, and greater chances of infection and injury.

Indoor kitties generally live longer and healthier lives because they aren't exposed to the same threats that they would face outdoors. With that said senior cats are still at risk for aging related diseases.

Check out this 2 min video on the most common diseases in older cats:

As a senior, your venerable elder of a cat will benefit from more frequent vet visits. The general recommendation is about twice a year or once every six months.

The more frequent visits are necessary to identify changes in your cat’s health. A lot can happen in 6 months and waiting a full year for another checkup could allow health issues to worsen.

If it’s hasn’t been a normal part of your annual visit, you can be sure that blood tests are going to be recommended for your senior.

Your vet will be specifically looking for common age-related issues and potential complications. They will also want to perform a urinalysis to track kidney function.

When your cat becomes a senior, you’ll want to pay careful attention to their behavior. If they show reluctance to jump, if they seem stiff, favor limbs, or avoid certain actions, this may be worth bringing up with your vet.

Read More Cat Care Guides

• Lump Check: When to Be Concerned About Your Cat's Health
• What is Natural Feeding for Cats and How Does It Work?
• Treating Heartworm in Cats: The Pet Parent's Handbook

Joint pain is common in older cats but can be managed in several different ways. From traditional medication to acupuncture to CBD oil. Your vet will recommend an appropriate course of action for your cat.

Oral care also continues to be important for seniors. Inflamed gums and tooth pain can cause your kitty to cut back or even stop eating. While your kitty may not show that they are in pain, a slow decline in eating can be a sign of dental issues.

Case in point: When my now 18-year-old Sosa was about 16, a regular checkup helped identify a considerable decline in her dental health. The doctor recommended the removal of several teeth as they were causing pain and other issues. This was very stressful and traumatic due to her advance age and other health issues. Fortunately, our vet specializes in elder cats and felt comfortable with putting my Sosa under general anesthesia. Everything went well during surgery and my Sosa was back to herself after a couple of days. Had we waited a little longer, she may not have been a good candidate for such a procedure due to her advanced age and her poor dental health might have resulted in other complications.

How Often Should You Take Geriatric Cats to the Vet?

If your kitty reaches the ripe old age of 15, they’ve graduated to geriatric status – you officially have a little old lady or little old man in the family.

A 15-year-old kitty is about 76 in human years, so as you may imagine their aging body isn’t going to function as well as it once did.

If your kitty has been diagnosed with any of the common aging cat diseases, you may start to add specialist vet visits in addition to your regular twice yearly vet appointments.

Some kitties with chronic pain might benefit from acupuncture sessions, a cat with heart disease may need disease management from a veterinary cardiologist, and in the heart-breaking case of cancer, a veterinary oncologist.

What are Some Other Reasons to Take a Cat to the Vet?

Any time throughout your furry friend's life, there may be other reasons to take them to the vet.

If you have a well-established relationship with your veterinarian, you may be able to call with any concerns that come up to see if they advise that you should come into the office.

This is one advantage of building a trusted relationship with your vet and why it’s listed as a key reason to periodically bring your cat to the vet.

In some cases, you may be able to watch and wait to see if an ailment clears up on its own. With all my cats for example I have made sure to build a relationship with our family vet and believe me it is worth it.

Generally, a vet visit is warranted for anything out of the ordinary.

Injuries

The most obvious one is injury. While kitties are extremely nimble, accidents happen.

A miscalculated jump could cause a leg injury, a stuck claw could cause a paw injury. If your kitty goes outside, they could get in fights with other animals or injured by a passing vehicle.

If your cat comes home scratched up, but is otherwise acting normal, you may be inclined to just let the wounds heal on their own. This can be dangerous as under the surface an abscess could be forming.

At the very least, wounds should be cleaned and examined for debris or damage that might need stitches, and you'll need to watch them for infection.

Treatment for an injury might include pain medications, a cone, a cast, or other accessories to help encourage healing. It’s always a good idea to have an emergency veterinarian’s office information on hand in case of a concern that arises after normal business hours.

Chronic health conditions

We mentioned earlier that there are some common aging diseases your kitty might face. When initially diagnosed, your kitty may need to be seen more frequently to ensure the health issue is being properly addressed.

An example would be with inflammatory bowel disease. Once diagnosed, your vet may recommend dietary changes and will want updates on how your kitty is responding. If diet changes aren’t enough a medication may be required.

Determining which medication and dosage works best for your kitty may take some time. More frequent bloodwork may also be needed, which would mean heading into the vet office more often.

If you receive a new diagnosis, don’t panic - and I speak from experience.

There are many health concerns that, when managed properly, won't affect your feline's quality of life until they're advanced in age, but regular monitoring and treatment are necessary.

Proper management means a closer review by your vet to watch for changes that indicate the need to adjust medications or diet.

Litter box issues

Litter box issues are another common cause for concern. This is under behavioral issues in the list of reasons to bring your cat to the vet.

If your cat is having trouble using the litter box (also known as elimination issues), for example if they're suddenly going where they shouldn't, or if they're visiting frequently without actually going, or if they have issues like diarrhea for more than a day or two, it’s time to give your vet a call.

There may be a simple explanation you can handle at home, but your vet may want to perform an examination to make sure they don't have problems like a urinary tract infection, bowel obstruction, or kidney infection.

Vomiting, digestive issues, or food and drink issues

Likewise, vomiting can be a sign that something is wrong. Cats vomit occasionally, including hairballs, and it's not necessarily a cause for concern.

But, if your cat is throwing up more than once or twice a month, it can be a sign of something more nefarious going on. It could be something as simple as they're eating too much too fast, but other more chronic health conditions can cause vomiting.

Another big red flag is unexplained weight loss. Weight loss is fine if your cat is obese and you're working on helping them get down to a healthy weight, but if they've started losing weight unexpectedly – especially if they haven't changed their behavior in other ways – it can be a cause for concern.

Read More Cat Care Guides

• What is a Ragdoll Cat? Breeds, Traits, Origins, Care & More
• Clumps or Crystals: Which Cat Litter Type Works Best?
• FAQ: What Types of Allergies Do Cats Most Commonly Have?

Any number of illnesses or parasites can lead to weight loss. Likewise, if your cat has stopped eating for more than a day or two, a vet visit is a must. Failure to eat can cause liver lipidosis, which can be deadly if left untreated.

Conversely, excessive thirst can also be a sign of a problem, particularly kidney disease. If your cat seems very thirsty, and it's not just because it's the peak of summer and it's hot, take them for a vet visit.

Behavioral changes

Finally, any unexplained behavioral issue can also be a cause for concern.

A normally active cat no longer wanting to play, an aloof cat suddenly wanting to snuggle, or a cat that seems to be fearful or aggressive out of nowhere; these can all be signs of problems that need a vet's attention.

While there might be a reasonable explanation (like a change in life circumstances or home situation), it’s always best to rule out a physical cause.

Financial Resources for Pet Parents in Need

Raising a cat is a beautiful thing. But just as raising biological children it can be expensive.

Believe me, I know, I grew up with cats and have adopted and raised 4 of them from kittenhood all the way to adulthood.

As life changes, sometimes pet parents may find themselves in situations where money is tight. We pet parents understand very well that some medical procedures can be both life threatening and/or really expensive.

You should try not let this get in the way of providing the best healthcare you can for your furry children.

Fortunately, there are a number of organizations that provide financial resources for pet parents in need.

Frankie’s Friends: Non-profit foundation dedicated to finding cures and saving pets with cancer and other life-threatening conditions. This non-profit helps save pets’ lives by providing grants to assist with the cost of life-saving or life-enhancing emergency or specialty care for pets whose families cannot afford the full cost of treatment.

RedRover Relief: This organization provides financial assistance grants and additional resources so pet parents, and rescuers can care for animals who need urgent veterinary care. RedRover also offers financial assistance for victims of domestic violence and their pets.

The Pet Fund is a registered 501(c) 3 nonprofit association that provides financial assistance to pet parents who need veterinary care. Often fur children are put down or suffer needlessly because their parents cannot afford expensive surgery or medical treatment. Pet parents must often make the difficult decision to put an animal down or neglect medical needs because of the costs involved.

Live Like Roo Foundation is a volunteer-run 501C3 organization that provides support and financial assistance to families whose fur child faces a cancer diagnosis. They pay bills for biopsies, amputations, medications, growth removals and much more.

Alternatively, if you do not qualify for any of the grants above, there are a number of veterinary financing options available. Simply run an internet search and you will find plenty of convenient options.

So, there you have it. In the first couple of years of life you can expect to take your kitty to more frequent vet visits, but that will lead into a regular annual schedule. If health issues arise you may need to visit your veterinarian more frequently.

Even without health issues, as life comes full circle, an aging kitty will begin going back to the vet more frequently. Follow your vet’s guidance for appointment frequency. Like you, they want your fur baby to live a long healthy life and preventative care is a big part of that process. Over to you.

Do you have any questions regarding how often you should be taking your cat to the vet? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below! I'd be more than happy to assist you and your furry feline friend however I possibly can! Just remember, if you're ever in doubt, it's always best to stay on the safe side and take them in for an examination.

As always, if you found this content useful, all our blog content on toe beans is social media shareable. So, what are you waiting for to spread the love 😻? Go ahead and hit any social media icon of your preference around the post for instant sharing with friends and family. Sharing is caring!

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

A very important question pet parents usually have about essential oils for pets is, are essential oils safe for your dog? or, if used topically, are essential oils safe for your dog's hair?

After all, it doesn't matter how nice your pup smells if they're suffering because of it, right?

In this post I go an inch wide and a mile deep into essential oils for dogs and cats. From essential oils safety to what essential oils are not safe for your dog to how to safely use essential oils at home.

I have also included a great video where Dr. Allison Fields discusses using essential oil diffusers around your pets. This is a must watch!

Looking for more dog care guides? No problem, you can either scroll down all the way to the further reading section or visit my blog. Spoiler alert, it is packed with resources.

Let's dig into the safety of essential oils and how they may affect and benefit your pup.

What Are Essential Oils?

Just in case you’re not quite sure what essential oils are, I figured I'd give you a quick rundown.

Many plants have chemicals in them that give them their unique scents. It's the same whether you're talking about an edible herb like Basil or an inedible plant like Sandalwood.

The essential oil is drawn out of the plant using various extraction methods, the most common being through solvent extraction, steaming, maceration, and cold-press extraction. What you're left with is an extremely potent, extremely concentrated essence of the plant itself.

Essential oils are considered "pure" when they're not diluted by a carrier oil. These oils are extremely potent – so much so that a single drop can scent your entire house for hours or even days, depending on how you use it.

Essential oils are also used as an ingredient in numerous natural products. You might find them diluted down with a neutral carrier oil to be used in a diffuser.

Or, a drop or two might be used to add scent to a bar of soap or another household good. They are a great alternative to synthetically created fragrances.

It's worth noting that – as we always like to point out about anything you buy for your fur baby - not all essential oils are created equal. You'll notice that for example if you search for a specific essential oil, you’ll find a broad spectrum of pricing.

While a higher cost doesn’t always mean better quality, choosing the cheapest option is going to give you what you paid for – a sub-par product. It’s a balancing act.

The quality of the original plant and the extraction process all play a role in the end product. Many plants are grown using pesticides and fungicides, which may end up in the final product.

In addition, some extraction processes use hexane (which comes from refining crude oil) to extract the oils from plants. This process will leave some hexane in the final essential oil bottle.

If you’re considering purchasing an essential oil for your own personal use or for your fur baby, the minimum requirement you should seek is a USDA Certified Organic product.

While the quality of the plant may still vary, you can ensure it wasn’t grown using any harmful synthetics and neither was the extraction process.

Are Essential Oils Safe for Fur, Skin, or in General?

In general, essential oils are "safe, but." They're of course natural, but that alone doesn't mean something is safe. As I like to repeatedly emphasize on my blog, “natural” should NEVER be a proxy for safe.

Not for you, let alone for your fur baby. After all, wolfsbane, poison ivy, and rattlesnake venom are all natural, but you obviously wouldn't want to rub them on your skin.

For starters, essential oils are usually not safe to eat. Some, made from edible plants, may be ingestible in small amounts, diluted, and used as an ingredient. Others are simply toxic, or caustic enough to burn skin and stomach lining.

Typically, you don't eat essential oils, instead you either put them in an aromatherapy diffuser or use them as a scent ingredient.

Using essential oils as a scent ingredient in topical products is the safest and most practical way to use essential oils with your pets. Never apply pure undiluted essential oils directly on your or your dog's skin.

"Applying oils topically can be irritating to the skin — yours and your dog’s. This is counterproductive for treating skin conditions and can add to your dog’s discomfort. Therefore, without proper professional guidance, it’s best to avoid using essential oils topically or directly on your dog. Instead, look for expertly formulated products that incorporate dog-safe essential oils. - American Kennel Club

The trouble with discussing essential oils is that they're as widely varied as the plants they're made from. It's impossible to simply declare them all safe, or all dangerous, because you (and your fur baby) will react differently to different plants. It’s simply not a binary scenario.

When it comes to your fur baby, essential oils can be safe if they're properly diluted or used as an ingredient in another product. The most important keyword here is “properly.”

Here is the ASPCA position on whether or not essential oils are safe for pets:

"The answer, as we so often see, is slightly more complicated than a simple “yes,” or “no.”...In their concentrated form (100%), essential oils can absolutely be a danger for pets...Some oils may in fact be more harmful than others. However, there are several factors that affect this such as concentration level, and what the product is mixed with. For example, concentrated forms of tea tree oil (melaleuca oil) may cause issues for your pets with only seven or eight drops, whereas another oil may take more or less. Due to the variability in concentration, formulation and possible quality of essential oils, it is best to completely avoid directly applying them to your pet. You should also keep any oils up and out of paws' reach to prevent potential ingestion." - The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals^® (ASPCA^®)

Essential oils won't harm your dog's skin or fur, as long as they aren't just slathered on. A deodorizing spritz, for example, with a dog-safe and properly diluted amount of essential oils can be enough to be therapeutic without risking irritating skin or overwhelming your fur baby.

Needless to say, deodorizing spritzes that contain natural fragrances such as essential oils make for a much safer and better choice than those using artificial fragrances made from harsh chemicals.

Read Further

• 5 Alternatives to Dog Shampoo that You Can Use to Wash Your Pup
• Why Dogs Get Smelly
• Buy Dog and Cat Books – A great read for the entire family
• How to Bathe and Groom your Dog Like a Professional

Are Essential Oils Risky for Pets?

Essential oils have the potential to harm pets if two conditions are met.

• Too much oil is used at once.
• It's an oil that is toxic to your fur baby.

Too much of any essential oil will be irritating, though only certain essential oils are actually toxic. You should never apply pure essential oil to your fur baby.

Not only will it be way too strong for their extremely sensitive sense of smell, but it can also irritate their digestive system if ingested via self-grooming. And, of course, if you've happened to pick a toxic oil, that's bad no matter what.

Just like there are certain plants that are toxic to your dogs and cats, there are also some essential oils that are toxic too. After all, they are derived from plants.

Luckily, most pet-focused products (mine included) are perfectly safe for your furry friend. There's only a tiny amount in any given product – we don't sell pure essential oils – and we only use scents that are safe for dogs and in some cases our products are also safe for cats.

Cat safe products are clearly labeled as such; they have more sensitivities to essential oils, so don’t use a dog safe product on your kitty.

However, if you're using aromatherapy with oils you buy for yourself, you should be careful about which ones you use when your fur baby is around or eliminate the dangerous scents altogether.

Read Further

• 5 Tips for Removing Matted Hair from Your Fur Baby
• Is Dry Shampoo Safe for Dogs? 5 Things to Avoid
• Hot Spots on Dogs: Causes, Symptoms, and Remedies
• Expert Advice: How Often Should You Bathe a Puppy?

Which Essential Oils Can Be Dangerous to Dogs?

If you're interested in using essential oils around the house, or even as a treatment for your fur baby's medical issues, you'll need to make sure you aren't applying human standards to your pet.

Some smell great to us but some essential oils are toxic to dogs. This is a tough subject to broach, as there aren’t many studies to support which oils are safe versus which are toxic.

Most documented cases of death due to essential oils is from direct application or consumption of an undiluted oil. If the essential oil had been properly diluted it could have been safely applied. So, in this case is the oil safe or toxic?

The previous example is why you’ll find so much contradictory information on the internet. One site will list the essential oil as safe where another will say it’s toxic. It’s frustrating, I know.

Instead of relying on the wide variety of opinions scattered on the internet, we follow the guidance of a team of veterinarians who specialize in therapeutic essential oil use for pets.

Their list provides a small number of oils that should NOT be used with dogs. They include:

• Birch
• Tea Tree (Melaleuca)
• Wintergreen

There is also a group of “hot oils” that should be used cautiously (read must be highly diluted), some examples include cinnamon, clove, and oregano.

Cats are even more sensitive to essential oils as they lack a liver enzyme to break them down. So, in addition to the should NOT be used list above, you can also add all citrus oils, peppermint, and spearmint.

Read Further

• 12 Tips to Keep Your House Free of Dog and Cat Hair
• Poodle Grooming Tips: How to Brush and Comb Your Poodle's Hair
• Methods to Safely Untangle and Brush out Matted Dog Hair

Can You Use Essential Oils as an Ingredient?

There are uses for essential oils other than as aromatherapy scents. In fact, one of the most common uses is as an ingredient in topical products, such as in a lotion or spray. That’s how we use them.

So, can you safely use essential oils as an ingredient in these types of products? Or, to be more precise, if you buy a product with essential oils as an ingredient, is it safe?

The answer to this is generally yes, though with caveats.

If you buy a product like my Momma Knows Best organic paw balms, you might notice that essential oils are listed as ingredients. Is this bad?

Well, of course not. I wouldn't sell it if it had even the slightest chance of harming your precious friend. I use the vegan paw balm to keep my Sosa’s (18 yo) toe beans hydrated and looking great.

As you may imagine, we are unable to speak for the quality and safety practices used by other pet product manufacturers that use essential oils in their products.

What we can do however, is disclose what we do to make our products 100% safe for your dogs and for some products cats even if they are consumed via self-grooming.

Here's what makes our products safe to use on your dogs and cats:

• Very little of the product is necessary. For items like paw balms or deodorizing spritzes, you only need to apply a very small amount of the product every time.
• We use a safe amount in every product. For example, we properly dilute all essential oils to ensure they are safe for small dogs (and cats where applicable). All our products that contain essential oils have been diluted based on the dilution rate for small dogs.
• We only use scents that are safe for dogs. Frankincense, for example, is known to be safe for pets, which is why I use it instead of something like Peppermint.
• We only use USDA certified organic essential oils. The essential oils present in our products are USDA certified organic. This guarantees that no pesticides, synthetics, harsh chemicals, or heavy metals will make it into your fur baby’s organs.

Generally speaking, most essential oils are going to be safe, of course and once again, when used properly. One thing we recommend to pet parents is to be careful with the use of diffusers around pets.

Using essential oils with diffusers is very different from using them as ingredients in other products. If you use essential oils in infusers for medical reasons, make sure to keep your pets out of the room while the oil is being infused.

"Active oil diffusers, including nebulizers and ultrasonics, should be used away from pets so the microdroplets don’t come in contact with your pet’s fur, skin, or lungs." - Tim Evans, University of Missouri College of Veterinary Medicine - for the NY Times

Watch the 2-min video below about using essential oils in diffusers around your pet.

Are Essential Oils Harmful to Pets?

With that said, whenever you’re trying a new product with an essential oil, you should do a small spot test on your pup to ensure they don’t have an allergic reaction. If your pup gets a little rash, or starts scratching, discontinue use.

Can Essential Oils Help Your Pet?

Essential oils have great benefits for people, but what about for pets? Can your four-legged friend benefit from a scent infused in their environment or applied to their skin?

The short answer is yes, with a larger question about the actual overall efficacy. Remember, asking "can essential oils help" is like asking, "can medicine help?" There are so many different essential oils (just like there are so many different medications) that you have to be more specific.

A study by the National Institute of Health (NIH) confirms certain essential oils exhibit antimicrobial behavior. While these may not be able to replace an antibiotic ointment, they may help stave off an overgrowth of bacteria and yeast that live on your pup’s skin.

In particular, dogs with skinfolds benefit from regular cleaning and application of moisturizers and humectants such as dog balms that contain frankincense essential oil for example.

Another study shows that thyme essential oil (among others) is good for repelling fleas!

Frankincense has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which may help with joint pain and fight off skin infections.

Check our USDA certified organic line of dog and cat balms here.

What Are the Symptoms of Essential Oil Toxicity?

Essential oil toxicity in pets is more likely to happen when the oil has either been inhaled or consumed (via droplets spread with an infuser).

If the worst-case scenario happens and your fur baby encounters a toxic oil or simply has too much essential oil in too short a span, they can end up poisoned.

Obviously, I hope you never have to experience this, but it's better to be informed ahead of time.

So, what are the symptoms of a dog with oil toxicity?

• Strong scent of the oil, particularly if your fur baby got into your bottles or ate an entire product at once.
• Redness around the mouth, where the oil came into contact with their skin.
• Difficulty breathing, particularly if they inhaled large amounts of the oil.
• Drooling.
• Fatigue.
• Difficulty walking, muscle tremors, or other signs of weakness or dysfunction.
• Pawing at their mouth or face, like there's something they're trying to get rid of but can't.
• Vomiting.

If your fur baby smells strongly like an oil and is exhibiting any of these symptoms, take them to the vet immediately.

Your vet will be able to run blood tests and other exams to check the extent of their exposure, and help you plan the next steps. Often, this kind of exposure is treatable, though unpleasant.

Additionally, you can contact an animal poison control center for immediate assistance 24/7. These centers, based in the United States, specialize in helping veterinary patients.

They will be able to provide specific assistance. The following are available 24 hours a day, but they do charge a fee for their services:

Pet Poison Hotline
800-213-6680

ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center
888-426-4435

How to Safely Use Essential Oils in the Home

If you're interested in using essential oils and you're worried about your fur baby, or if you're already a regular user of aromatherapy, but you're looking to adopt a dog (great choice!), you need to put a few safe habits into practice.

• Keep essential oils in a safe location. First and foremost, make sure any pure essential oils or oil-carrying products are securely locked away from your pup. A cabinet out of your fur baby's reach, preferably with a lock or latch, or even just a case they can't open can all be good ideas. Remember, especially, puppies will chew on anything and can get into places they shouldn't, so use extra care.
• Handle essential oils away from your fur babies. When handling raw essential oils, keep your pup contained elsewhere so you don’t get bumped or distracted and spill the oil. Preferably, prepare them in a kitchen or bathroom sink. That way if a spill occurs you can easily clean it up.
• Wear gloves. Make sure to use use gloves when opening a brand-new bottle. I learned this lesson the hard way when opening a new bottle of rosemary (a hot oil). It came with a plastic plug that I had to pry out of the mouth of the bottle. When the plug finally came free, I splashed the rosemary all over my hand. It immediately started to turn red and my skin started to burn. I of course washed it off right away, but my skin stayed pink for hours due to the irritation from the oil. The last thing you want is to accidentally spill raw oil on your fur baby.
• Never confine your dog to a room that has an essential oil diffuser. If you like to diffuse essential oils, make sure that you do so in an area that you pup has the choice to leave. Additionally, make sure that the diffuser is on a stable and unreachable surface by your pup. For example, you can place it up high where your dog cannot get close and get his or her nose or tongue on it.
• Consider the dilution rate. There are a ton of DIY recipes online which are fine for humans but remember your pup’s sense of smell is somewhere between 10,000 to 100,000 times better than yours, so even a small amount can be irritating. Ask your veterinarian.
• Avoid plug-in diffusers. Given the regular location of most outlets around the house, plug-in diffusers will be easily accessible by your curious dog or cat. Instead, use corded diffusers that you can place beyond their reach as high as possible.
• Consider already diluted essential oils. If you’re more safety conscience, but still want the benefits, you can always forgo the raw essential oils and purchase products that already include a diluted version.

Which Scents are Safe for Dogs?

As I noted earlier, most essential oils, when properly diluted are safe for topical use on dogs. The keyword here is topical.

When choosing an essential oil to use with your pup, always observe their behavior. If you’re getting any negative reaction that’s a sign to stop use.

Let’s go through some essential oils that are commonly used in products for dogs:

• Lavender, Geranium, and Chamomile provide benefits to your dog’s coat, including strengthening and conditioning the hair as well as adding softness and shine.
• Cedarwood, Rosemary, Thyme, Lemongrass, and Arborvitae all help repel those pests that like to latch on during outside playtime.
• Frankincense, Myrrh Copaiba, and Marjoram all help reduce inflammation, which may help lesson joint discomfort.
• Lavender is great for motion sickness.

I cannot stress this enough: even these essential oils are dangerous if you put them directly on your fur baby, or if they eat them. Always dilute using a carrier oil (for example coconut oil) before applying to your dog’s skin.

Ensuring your canine companion's safety is of utmost importance when it comes to essential oil use, so if you have any questions or concerns about essential oil use around your furry friends, please be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll do my best to assist you however I possibly can.

Additionally, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

Dogs can experience many benefits from CBD oils, so it's worth learning everything one can about these products in case you might want to try them. One popular questions many pet parents have is how long does it take for CBD to work on my dogs?

Veterinary care can be expensive and more and more pet parents are turning to more natural and holistic alternatives before moving forward with a prescription treatment or a costly procedure. Did you know that all animals are born with natural powers to heal themselves?

In this in-depth guide I discuss everything CBD for dogs. You can literally consider it the ABC's of CBD for pets. I cover it all from what CBD really is to what CBD can help with in your pet to how to pick the best CBD for your pup.

There are plenty of additional resources at the bottom, so make sure not to miss the read further section. Alternatively, you can also visit my blog and search by topic. Spoiler alert, it is packed with useful resources.

Let's dig right in!

What is CBD and What Does it Do?

CBD is the acronym for cannabidiol. Cannabidiol is an active ingredient found in the hemp plant, which is a non-psychoactive species of the cannabis plant. Unlike (tetrahydrocannabinol) THC, CBD cannot get you or your fur baby "high." Instead, it is said to have some medicinal and anti-inflammatory properties.

CBD is often perceived to fall in a gray area due to lack of understanding. It’s also sometimes lumped in with THC/marijuana making many weary of its legality.

CBD itself has been legal since the 2018 Farm Bill was signed into law. The only caveats are that the CBD must be derived from the hemp plant, and that it can’t contain more than 0.3% THC. This minute amount of THC is non-psychoactive.

As you may be aware, CBD-based product consumption is currently growing as a medical trend for both humans and pets.

While there's still much we don't know about CBD and its efficacy helping with different ailments – many studies are ongoing – what is significantly more important is what we do now about it.

Many of the preliminary research results look promising for pet parents looking for holistic approaches to supplement their dogs’ natural powers to heal themselves.

"Currently, there has been no formal study on how CBD affects dogs. What scientists do know is that cannabinoids interact with the endocannabinoid receptors located in the central and peripheral nervous systems, which help maintain balance in the body and keep it in a normal healthy state." - American Kennel Club.

What does CBD do? Humans, dogs, and other animals have a bodily system called the endocannabinoid system (ECS), which is part of the overall endocrine system.

It consists of receptors, which accept CBD molecules and use them to trigger various effects on the creature taking it. Extensive research today shows that the ECS not only affects but also regulates a number of body functions, systems, conditions and diseases including pain perception, sleep, immune system function, thermo regulation, memory and learning, and appetite regulation amongst other functions.

A 2017 report on CBD by the World Health Organization lists diseases for which CBD may have therapeutic benefits.

For dogs in particular, there is not enough conclusive research in this field as of yet, but rather abundant anecdotal evidence suggesting that adequate stimulation of their ECS with CBD may help with a number of ailments ranging from situational anxiety caused by separation to reducing discomfort associated with mobility and minor aches and pains to supporting general well-being and more.

What Can CBD Oil Help with in Dogs?

Today, there is both anecdotal evidence and preliminary studies that suggest many beneficial effects associated with the use of CBD in both humans and animals.

For starters, CBD seems promising as a holistic approach to help with pain. Pain is common in dogs, and can be caused by many things, including injury, degenerative disease, and aging. Just like with us humans, at some point pain will simply be part of most dogs' lives.

A very common source of pain in dogs is associated with mobility aches and pains. There is plenty of historical and anecdotal evidence today suggesting that CBD may help with discomfort associated with joint aches and pains.

This is, among other things, what has made CBD a great alternative for pet parents looking for a true natural and holistic option to help their dog’s unlock their natural powers to heal themselves while sparing them many of the undesirable known and unknown side effects caused by other options.

Joint pain is one of the most implacable and hardest to relieve kinds of pain, and it's the worst to see in your fur baby when they struggle to move around.

Being able to help your dog tap into their natural healing powers to feel better and restore the enjoyment of simple daily activities with a simple oil is almost a miracle.

Another potential benefit of CBD for dogs comes from helping dogs with seizures. Seizures are the most commonly reported neurological issue in dogs, primarily because it's one of the most visible and most startling disorders.

"The prevalence of canine epilepsy is estimated to be between 0.5-5-7 percent. This means that as many as 1 in 20 dogs may experience a seizure in their lifetime." - Metropolitan Veterinary Associates.

CBD is said to have promising uses in helping with the disorders that lead to seizures in both humans and dogs. According to a study by Colorado State University, there is promising evidence that suggests CBD has a positive effect on reducing seizure frequency in dogs.

Dr. Stephanie McGrath, a neurologist at Colorado State University’s James L. Voss Veterinary Teaching Hospital, described the findings from a trailblazing pilot study to assess the use of cannabidiol, or CBD, for dogs with epilepsy as promising and exciting.

The study that took place from 2016 to 2017 found that 89% of dogs who were administered CBD in the clinical trial had a reduction in the frequency of seizures. Nine dogs were treated with CBD, while seven dogs in a control group were treated with a placebo.

Administering high quality hemp-derived CBD products to your dog may also have the following benefits and effects:

• Anti-inflammatory effects. Inflammation is a leading cause of disease and illness, so anything that helps with inflammation is beneficial.

Check out this story in the new about CBD for dogs pain. Since the date of the video in 2019, there have been studies supporting its efficacy. I shared them throughout every post on CBD.

CBD Oil For Pet Pain Relief | 3:41 Min Video

• Heart health benefits. Many dogs suffer from cardiovascular problems, particularly as they get older or if they're out of shape. CBD oil may be beneficial in strengthening the heart and making the cardio system more resilient.
• Anti-nausea. Nausea can be difficult to detect in a dog since they can't exactly tell you about it. However, if you suspect your canine companion has nausea problems, CBD may help.
• Appetite boosting. Dogs with different ailments or that are aging tend to have issues eating and may lose interest in food entirely. It's always a good idea to have your dog checked out by a vet if they aren't eating, but if it's an issue of interest and not medical problems, CBD may help stimulate their appetite.
• Situational Stress. For one reason or another, some dogs experience situational stress caused by many different reasons. It's possible that CBD may be able to help bring that stress to more manageable levels.

Again, though, there aren’t many long-term studies scientifically supporting these benefits. Many of these long-term studies are currently being conducted, so it may be years before conclusive results can be seen, which is common for these types of tests.

Are There Side Effects to CBD Oil for Dogs?

Any chemical that works on the body, whether it's on yours or that of your pup, has the potential for side effects. That's just the nature of biology.

Luckily, most of the potential side effects of CBD are often very mild.

• Dry mouth. In dogs, dry mouth mostly just means they're thirsty more often, which might lead to more need to go out and use the hydrant. CBD can inhibit saliva production, which causes dry mouth, but is not otherwise harmful.
• Abruptly lowered blood pressure. CBD can lower blood pressure, but usually only in high doses. Keep in mind though, that a "high dose" for a small dog might not be very much at all, especially in the concentrations modern CBD oil comes in. Thankfully, this drop in blood pressure is generally short-lived and is likely no worse than a brief spell of dizziness for your fur baby. If your pup is older or has heart disease you should speak to your vet before trying CBD.
• Drowsiness. Part and parcel of dealing with addressing situational anxiety; CBD may cause drowsiness as your canine companion grows more relaxed. Depending on their usual temperament and energy levels, this effect may be more pronounced in some breeds rather than in others.
• Nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. These are all side effects associated with extremely high doses. You generally won't have to worry about these unless your fur baby finds the bottle and drinks the whole thing at once. It’s worth noting here, regardless of the form of the CBD, you should always ensure it is not accessible by your pup.

That's pretty much it! As it turns out, CBD oil is generally quite safe, even in high doses, which is why it's so promising as a holistic alternative for various ailments. While dying from an overdose of CBD is unlikely, the same is not true for THC. CBD is regarded safe for dogs.

How Long Does CBD Take to Work?

Whether you read all the way here or you skipped here because you already know all about CBD, let's get down to business. How long does it take for CBD to start working in your dog?

Unfortunately, there's no simple answer. You have to consider several factors.

• Your dog's weight. While there's currently no consensus on CBD dose administration, generally, CBD dosages are given on a by-weight basis, usually in 10-pound increments. The larger and heavier your fur baby, the more you need to give them.
• The concentration of the oil. Different brands of CBD oil have different concentrations of CBD. A higher concentration oil means you need less to get the active effects.
• How it's administered. Sublingual application – that is, putting a drop directly beneath your dog's tongue – is the fastest, while mixing it with food is the slowest.
• Your dog's sensitivity. Some dogs are more sensitive than others, and there's no way to tell other than giving them some oil and watching for any changes in behavior or illness.
• The intended effects. Different goals have different active times. For example, administering CBD to stop a seizure in progress may happen within seconds, while giving it to a dog to relieve pain might take much longer.

In general, at the low end for dealing with situational stress, CBD may take effect in as little as 15-30 seconds when administered to a small dog, in a larger dose, sublingually.

At the high end, for a dog that is more resistant to the effects, and if you're dealing with something like pain or lost appetite, it can take 45 minutes or longer to take effect.

And, of course, there's always the chance that your dog may not respond to it at all. CBD does build up in your pup’s body, so it’s recommended to dose for one full week before expecting to see results for more serious issues.

There's also a related question: How long do the effects of CBD oil last?

This one also varies a lot, according to breed, size, dosage, activity level, age, and symptoms. Generally, however, the effects can last anywhere from 4-8 hours.

Interestingly, if you administer CBD via food, older dogs will digest it slower and will maintain the effects for longer, which is great, especially for those suffering from pain.

How to Pick the Best CBD Oil for Your Furry Friend

If you've decided that you want to try out a CBD oil for your fur baby, you want to make sure you're getting the best quality product.

Luckily, there are a few key attributes to look for in a CBD oil product to make sure you're getting something good.

Look for USDA certified Organic CBD oil. The USDA regulates agriculture, and among other things, will make sure that the hemp grown to produce the CBD oil you're using is free from pesticides, fungicides, solvents, heavy metals, and other contaminants.

Eventually, the FDA may get involved as well, though they generally don't regulate pet products the way they do human products. Any organic claims should always be backed up by a certification.

We highly advise pet parents to stay away from baseless product claims such as “organically grown” or “pure organic” or anything that carries the word organic without a respective endorsement from a reputable organization.

Consider, but don't rely on price. Lower-priced CBD products may be diluted or adulterated in some way or produced using sub-par ingredients containing all sorts of contaminants. Often, to distract unsuspected pet parents from their product’s poor quality, they will be advertised as containing insurmountable concentrations of CBD oil. We have seen these concentrations range from the 3,000 ml to the millions of milligrams in a single bottle. On the other hand, higher-priced products may be relying on a brand name rather than any inherent quality to drive their price. You will always want to avoid the cheapest products, but just because a product is expensive doesn't mean it's good.

When comparing two CBD oils of similar quality (USDA certified organic for example), look at the amount of CBD per bottle. It is always safe to expect that the bottle with more CBD (in mg) per bottle will cost more. When making a purchase decision based on prices, always compare apples to apples or, products of similar quality. In terms of CBD oils for your dog we recommend using the USDA Organic Certification as your baseline for high quality. Anything below that should be avoided. Always do your due diligence.

Look for lab tests and analysis. The best CBD sellers have independent lab tests and verification for batches of their product, certifying the concentration of CBD and the quality of the product. They will gladly make - as visible as possible - a link to their third party certificate of analysis (COA) either on their listing online, on their product package, or both. Always look for products that have these tests, first to ensure what you think you’re dosing is what you’re actually dosing. Without lab reports the concentration from one bottle to another can vary greatly. And second, as uncovered by a Cornell University Researcher, to make sure your CBD tincture actually contains CBD in it. You’d be shocked to learn that there are many unscrupulous sellers out there selling CBD products containing zero CBD.

“You’d be astounded by the analysis we’ve seen of products on the shelf with virtually no CBD in them… There are plenty of folks looking to make a dollar rather than produce anything that’s really beneficial.” Joseph Wakshlag, Cornell University veterinary researcher

Get a liquid. CBD oil found as an oil or tincture is usually the best option. Even if you plan to give it to your fur baby infused into a treat or spread throughout their food, you still want to start with the oil, to give yourself the flexibility to adjust dosages. CBD-infused dog treats and other products are harder to judge effectively, may contain other ingredients that are harmful, or might just be inconsistent. They also "go bad" sooner, losing potency over time.

Pick a dog-focused product. If you're giving CBD to your dog, you probably want a dog-focused product. CBD is the same, whether for dogs or for humans, so why go for a dog product? Two reasons. First, dog-focused products will generally have a dog-focused dosage chart or instructions. Additionally, they oftentimes come in dog-loved flavors. This nice feature helps with administration as some dogs are not very keen on the pure CBD taste. Secondly, many manufacturers will spend greater effort ensuring their CBD is free from THC or that it contains less than 0.3% when given to dogs.

Check for best practices in manufacturing certifications. A high-quality product is only the result of high-quality manufacturing practices. Manufacturers with excellence in manufacturing practices will usually have certifications on their manufacturing practices. These manufacturers will proudly exhibit these certifications, such as CGMP certified, on their product labeling. Keep in mind that the quality of the ingredients is as important as the manufacturing process that creates the product.

Always know where your hemp was grown. This is different from where your CBD oil was made. That is, your CBD oil may be labeled as "Made in the USA" or "product of Canada" but the big question is was it made with imported CBD or US CBD? You want to make sure that the plant used to extract the CBD oil was grown in US soil, rather than overseas where heavy metal contamination in soil is much more prevalent (China is a good example). US Reputable sellers and manufacturers of high-quality CBD oil will gladly disclose and certify the specific US state where the CBD used in production was grown. Always remember that not all CBD oils are created equal.

Beware of "Made in the US" or "Product of the US" or "Product of Canada" product designations. All of these designations are essentially useless, and in many cases, intend to mask the non-US origin of the plant used in production. As indicated above, what you are looking for is to determine whether the plant used in production was grown in USA soil.

If you are buying pet hemp oil (not to be confused with hemp extract or CBD oil for dogs and cats) on the largest US eCommerce site, odds are those products are manufactured in Asia. Keep on administering them at your own peril. Don't believe us? keep on reading.

There are several ways in which you can find out if your pet products are made in Asia and the manufacturer is falsely claiming made in the USA or some cleaver variation of this phrase.

One simple way is by running what we like to call the 3liv3v3 test (replace the "3" symbol for the letter "a" and the "v" for a "b" when looking up this website).

For those of you not familiar with this website, it is basically where 90% + of products come from on the largest ecommerce site in the USA. Go on 3liv3v3 and run a search for pet hemp oil.

You will be surprised or should we say terrified? to find many of the most popular commercially available products there. Perhaps even the one you are using right now. The horrifying thing is that many of these brands label their products as "handcrafted in the USA" or even "Made in the USA."

Last but not least read about the products extraction method. There are several methods to extract CBD oil from the plant. The most pure and safe is CO2 extraction. Other methods (butane and methane) are said to leave traces of contaminants in the final product.

Tell Us Your Tails

CBD is certainly not a new product, but it's hitting the mainstream more over the last few years. Many of you likely already have used or tried CBD for your fur babies, so why not tell us about it?

Let us know the key details, like your fur baby's breed and size, and why you chose to give them CBD oil. Did it work? Were you skeptical until you saw it? Did you have any problems? What about those of you who haven't tried it before? Would you consider trying it now? We love seeing our followers talk about their furry friends, drop us a line!

They say sharing is caring. If you found this content helpful, can you do fellow pet parents a little favor by sharing it? Use any social media button located around the post.

Interested in learning more about CBD for dogs and cats? We've written extensively about this topic.

Read Further

• FAQ: Can CBD Oil Help Calm Cats with Situational Anxiety?
• What Are Some Tricks to Get Your Dog to Take CBD?
• FAQ: Can You Give Cats Human Grade CBD Oil?
• Consider CBD: A Holistic Approach to Calming your Dog
• Tips to Help Calm Your Cat While Trimming His Nails
• Helping Joint Discomfort in Older Pets Using CBD
• How to Calm Down Anxious Canines for A Grooming Session
• Using CBD to Help Night Barking Due to Old Age
• CBD oil: A Great Source of Omega-3s and Omega-6s

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

Every cat parent, and well most everyone else knows of catnip as a sort of kitty drug. It makes them go wild, they get goofy and playful. They just love to get their paws on it. At least, that's the more well-known picture.

In this blog post I cover some common questions and clever ways to use catnip for cats. What is catnip? How many people know what the plant looks like, how to identify it beyond its commercial packaging, or what it's actually doing to your cat?

Also, do all cats love catnip, or does it affect certain cats differently? You may also be wondering, is it unsafe for young cats, if so how old should your cat be before you give them catnip?

I've also added a very short video about a cat that had too much catnip. A must watch.

If you are curious to learn more about catnip for cats, I have sprinkled some great articles throughout the post. I have written extensively about catnip.

Alternatively, you can visit my blog and search by topic. Spoiler alert: it is loaded with resources.

Editor's Note: 'Common Questions and Clever Ways to use Catnip' was originally written in 2021. I update this post periodically to reflect changes in techniques, new recommendations, and because I am always learning new things!

Let's dig in!

What Is Catnip, Anyway?

Catnip is one of the many herbs in the mint family.

It's more than just a euphoric plant for cats. Over the course of history, humans have commonly used catnip as tea to aid in digestion and induce relaxation, and it's even a good insect repellant.

How does it work for cats?

Well, to understand that, you need to know something cool about cats. Cats have an extra organ on the roof of their mouth called the vomeronasal organ, more commonly known as Jacobson's organ.

"This amazing organ (Jacobson’s organ) serves as a secondary olfactory system and detects specific chemicals by using nerves that lead directly to the brain. Unlike olfactory cells in the nose, the odor receptors of Jacobson’s organ do not respond to just ordinary smells. Jacobson’s receptors pick up chemical substances that have no odor at all. In other words, they work to detect “undetectable” odors." - Ryan Llera, BSc, DVM; Lynn Buzhardt, DVM | VCA Animal Hospitals

Read More Catnip Guides

• How to Buy Catnip for Cats
• Introducing a Cat to Dogs in Your Home: Step-by-Step Guide
• Collar Considerations: The Case for and Against Bells on Cats
• Does Catnip Expire? Here's 5 Facts About Freshness and Storage
• 5 Fun Facts About Catnip
• Buy USDA Certified Organic Catnip – Grown in The USA - Free of Heavy Metals

This is why cats have such a good sense of smell; they take in scents (sometimes you’ll even see them with their mouth open and lips spread; we call it “stinky face” because they look like they encountered something foul smelling), and the information is sent directly to their brain to interpret.

Catnip itself contains an oil called nepetalactone, which has a specific scent that:

"…mimics feline sex hormones, so cats enjoying this substance will often display behaviors similar to a female cat in heat (although both male and female cats can experience the effects)." - PetMD

Read More Cat Care Guides

• Shedding Season: When Do Cats Shed Their Hair the Most?
• Avoiding Poisonous Houseplants: A Guide for Cat Parents
• [Guide] How to Feed Your Cat Wet Food When You're Away
• Clumps or Crystals: Which Cat Litter Type Works Best?
• Can Cats Have Whipped Cream as a Treat or Is It Dangerous?
• How to Safely and Easily Get Your Cat into a Cat Carrier

Cats react in different ways to this scent; they might become more playful and active, more affectionate, or they may experience relaxation and happiness.

Inhaling the scent from catnip generally induces a hyperactive state, whereas consuming the catnip orally causes a more relaxed state.

Cats may also get some pain relief and can experience reduced anxiety from it as well.

"Best known for eliciting a state of euphoria in cats, it also stimulates appetite, aids digestion, helps calm nervous animals and encourages restful sleep"- Dr. Suzi Beber | Animal Wellness Magazine

On rare occasions, catnip can make some cats more aggressive.

Catnip can be a fun recreational treat for cats, and it can be used in therapeutic situations to relieve anxiety, such as separation anxiety.

Read More Cat Care Guides

• My Older Adult Cat Won't Eat: How Can I Encourage Them?
• What is a Ragdoll Cat? Breeds, Traits, Origins, Care & More
• What is Natural Feeding for Cats and How Does It Work?
• Flake-Free Felines: Treating Cat Dandruff Safely and Quickly
• 5 Clever Ideas to Hide Your Cat's Litter Box in an Enclosure

It's also interesting to note that while the common perception is that catnip works on all cats, it actually doesn't! While estimates vary, it's probably fair to say over half of all cats (60% or so) have a reaction to catnip.

This seems to be based on genetic factors; some cats simply don't have the right genetic traits that cause reactions to catnip.

Fun fact: kitties in Australia have a higher rate of immunity (i.e., no reaction) to this leafy green plant.

Is Catnip Dangerous?

The short answer is no BUT it could be.

If you do not know how to safely buy catnip for cats, you may end up not only slowly poisoning your cat over time but also yourself and those around you.

It is no secret that the pet products industry is flooded with unscrupulous sellers that will use the art of deception in product labeling to mislead pet parents in order to make a buck at the expense of the happiness and well-being of our furry children.

However, so long as you become knowledgeable about the risks of buying imported catnip, you should be fine.

Some cats are fiends for catnip, while others just like to roll around in it; thankfully, catnip isn't inherently dangerous. In fact catnip might even be helpful and can aid in digestion.

But as it's true of most things, too much of a good thing can cause problems. If your cat eats too much catnip, they may experience digestive issues.

If your cat loves catnip, s/he might try to dig into the package where it's stored, so it's best to keep it out of reach. Too much catnip at once can overwhelm your cat leading to digestive upset and vomiting.

Their behavior mimics an overdose, and while it can be scary to see, it's not life-threatening. Incidentally, this is why you should avoid using concentrated catnip oils.

Since the active ingredient in catnip is an oil found in the leaves, catnip will degrade over time. In old catnip, the oils dissipate and dry out, so the herb loses potency. It's just like any other tea, spice, or herb in your kitchen; once it ages, it loses its potency.

By the way, you don't have to worry about addiction. Catnip isn't any more addictive than any other pleasurable toy, and there are no withdrawal symptoms. It's just a short-lived good time for your feline friend.

Feel free to use it whenever you want to get your cat riled up or calmed down, depending on their particular reaction.

The effects of catnip last around 10-15 minutes after giving the herb to your kitty, after which they won't be able to benefit from the herb again for about an hour or two.

How Old is Old Enough for Catnip?

A common question is how old your cat needs to be before you can give them catnip. If you give catnip to a kitten that is too young, is it going to cause problems? Can it cause developmental issues?

Luckily, the answer is no.

There's a specific age at which you can start giving your cat catnip, but the reason might surprise you.

Remember up above when we mentioned that catnip mimics a cat's sex hormones? Well, there's the key.

Catnip doesn't work on very young cats – those under six months old – because they are simply too young to care.

In fact, they may be somewhat avoidant of it. They still recognize that catnip has a strong odor, but they don't get pleasure out of it, so they might just ignore it altogether.

This doesn't mean your cat is one of the ones that doesn't respond to catnip. It just means your kitty is too young for the nepetalactone to cause a response in their brain.

As they get older, they may or may not develop a finer appreciation for the plant and its oil, or they might simply show indifference to it.

Catnip isn't going to harm your kitten; it just won't do anything for them except for being a source of a strong scent. They may be curious, they may avoid it, or they might ignore it.

Regardless, it's not dangerous. Feathery toys or balls to chase are a better option for kittens as they will activate their primal instinct to hunt.

Once your fuzzball is over six months old, they'll likely start to show a reaction to catnip, if they're going to at all. By a year old, they will be fully susceptible to catnip, or you'll know they don't react to it.

If you find your kitten tears into a bag of catnip, it's probably because the bag made a fun sound, they thought it was a toy, or they were digging for a treat, not because of the euphoric effects of the herb.

How Long Does It Take for Cats to Get High on Catnip?

It usually takes only a few seconds for your kitty to experience that euphoric catnip response. Of course, so long as the catnip is fresh, and your cat is not immune to nepetalactone.

According to The Humane Society of The United States, about 50% of cats have no reaction to catnip.

Do Cats Fall Asleep on Catnip?

Yes, catnip can make cats drowsy, but typically it's only when the catnip is ingested.

Nepetalactone is very similar to valepotriates compounds found in Valerian.

The sedative effects of Valerian are widely known. When consumed orally, catnip will have a sedative effect on cats.

How Long Does Catnip Last on Cats?

Unfortunately the catnip high only lasts about 10 minutes.

However, the length of time will depend on the size, weight, and age of the cat. In some extreme cases, the euphoria may last for a few hours.

The potency of the catnip will also have an impact on the duration of the effect. Given the time imported catnip spends traveling from Asia, it tends to be less potent than US grown catnip.

How Much Catnip Should I Give My Cat?

For oral consumption always start with a small amount of catnip.

If you're trying to entice your cat to eat by adding catnip to their food, simply sprinkle it over the food as if you were sprinkling salt on your own meal. Treat it like any other spice or condiment you add to your food. You don't want to overdo it.

While catnip is considered safe and a cat is highly unlikely to overdose on catnip, as discussed above, too much of anything isn’t good for anybody.

There’s always a very small chance that they may eat too much and have an adverse reaction such as vomiting or diarrhea.

Check Out This Short 1.52-Sec Video About a Cat's Reaction After Having Too Much Catnip

Due to the fact that cats are so great at regulating their catnip experience all by themselves, in general, cat parents should not be too concerned about how much is too much catnip for a cat.

“From a toxicological standpoint, no significant toxicity is expected in either humans or cats.”- Pet Poison Help Line.

Clever Ways to Use Catnip

Once your kitten is old enough to start getting some joy out of catnip, you can test it out. Give them a little bit of the herb and see how they react.

If your cat is one of the lucky ones that have the dominant gene for catnip response, you have a wonderful new tool and toy on your hands. The only question now is, where do I get it and how can I use it?

Buy high-quality catnip, or grow it yourself.

Catnip is easy to grow. It's a simple herb that grows broadly across North America and around the world and is hardy in many climate zones. It's also easy to grow in a pot on the windowsill.

There's just one problem with growing it indoors: with the plant so readily available, what's to stop your kitty from chewing it down to the stems or knocking over the pot?

If you plant it outside, what if it attracts other neighborhood cats and makes your kitty scared or territorial?

If you’ve ever had a cat grass plant you may have seen your fur baby overindulge and subsequently regurgitate the grass; this can happen with catnip too.

If you don’t have a green thumb or would rather not have to supervise access to an indoor plant, the easiest method most cat parents choose it to simply buy catnip.

We recommend getting your catnip from a verified, organic seller like toe beans. You want high-quality, fresh catnip for the best effect, and that's what we provide. Buy it, keep it in an airtight container, and only break it out when it's play time.

Use catnip to encourage positive behaviors.

One of the more common ways you can use catnip to train your feline is by scattering or rubbing some on a surface that you want your cat to use.

Cats love to scratch, so getting them to consistently use a scratching post rather than the side of a couch or a table leg is tricky. But, if you rub some catnip on the scratching post, they'll be attracted to it.

As long as you keep the catnip away from the furniture, they'll be more inclined to use the scratching post for their scratching needs.

We've all seen the jokes (and experienced firsthand) how a cat loves the box that the cat tree came in far more than they love the cat tree.

Cats do love boxes, but if you scatter some catnip on that new bed or cat tree, they'll be more likely to hang out there. This is best for cats that tend to be more relaxed on catnip than those who are more energetic and aggressive, though.

Sprinkle catnip around a new area to encourage exploration.

If you have an anxious kitty that exhibits the relaxation response to catnip, it can be a great tool to help them to explore a new area.

This can be distressing if you've just adopted a new furry friend and want them to explore your home rather than hiding in the spare room all the time.

Catnip is also good if you move, and the disruption makes your cat retreat into one specific area.

Simply sprinkle some catnip around key areas of the rooms you would like your kitty to explore.

As a less messy alternative, sprinkle some catnip on top of their food at mealtime and then slowly introduce your fur baby to new spaces that have been fitted with familiar scents.

Put some catnip in their carrier to reduce anxiety for car trips.

Cats don't usually like their carriers as they tend to associate it with going to the V-E-T.

We get it, a car ride is a scary, noisy time with a bunch of movements they can neither see nor control. Bumpy car trips can also cause motion sickness and even anxiety.

By adding a bit of catnip to their carrier, you can reduce anxiety and make your kitty more amenable to both the carrier and the car.

Just make sure your cat is the kind that responds to catnip with relaxation rather than energy or aggression. It does no good to rile up your furry friend and then confine them to a carrier!

Make a new toy a little bit more fun.

Catnip is a great way to enhance certain kinds of toys. Do you have one of those dryers that eats socks, where you end up with a bunch of singles?

Grab one and sprinkle some catnip inside, tie a knot at the top, and then you have an inexpensive new cat toy. There are also soft balls and other fabric items that can be filled with or rubbed with catnip for a similar effect.

These are particularly good for kitties that get energetic and wild when you give them catnip. By focusing their attention on a toy, you can avoid their energy damaging the arms and legs of your furniture.

Remember that catnip fades over time. The longer the herb is exposed to air, the more the oil will oxidize, dissipate, and evaporate.

Eventually, the herb's scent on the toy or other items will fade, and you'll need to restore it with some fresh catnip.

If you are in the market for some fresh catnip for your cat, make sure to read the Momma Knows Best^® 7 golden rules of buying catnip: How to Buy Catnip for Cats and avoid irreversible damage to your cat and your loved ones.

Tell Us Your Catnip Stories

If there's one thing we know, it's that pet parents love talking about their pets. So, if you have a feline family member, tell us, does your cat react to catnip, and if so how? What sort of antics do they get into when they're nipped up? What's the silliest thing they've done with a catnip toy?

We're also curious, have you done anything innovative with catnip, like training or attracting your kitty to a new toy or hangout? Tell us all about it; we'd love to hear it!

Of course, if you're not sure if your new furry friend has a sensitivity to catnip, you can always pick some up and give it a try.

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic, and brought to you by a US company, check out toe beans online pet supplies store!

It's also no exaggeration to say that there are millions of different toys on the market. Go to any pet supplies store or pet-focused website, and you'll see hundreds of options.

How can you possibly know which toys are safe and which are dangerous? There's an overwhelming amount of variety, and many of these toys are potentially harmful.

Today, we've got rubber on the mind, so let's talk about rubber dog toys. Are they safe for your fur baby, or are you putting them in harm's way?

In this comprehensive blog post I cover from the most common toxic chemicals found in dog toys to the scary truth about regulation on dog toys to 7 tips to follow to determine if a dog toy is safe for your pup.

Looking for more dog care guides? No problem, you can either scroll down all the way to the further reading section or visit my blog. Spoiler alert, it is packed with resources.

Editor's Note: 'FAQ: Are Rubber Dog Toys Safe for Dogs or Toxic?' was originally written in 2021. We update this post periodically to reflect changes in techniques, new recommendations, and because I am always learning new things! Happy reading.

Are Rubber Dog Toys Dangerous?

You may have come across posts on Facebook or various blogs talking about the evils of rubber dog toys. They make it sound like every dog toy made of rubber is covered in toxins and will seriously harm your pup.

While every rubber toy isn't necessarily harmful, there is some truth to the chemicals and toxins in certain types of rubber. A big aspect to also consider is where your dog toy was made. Was it made in the US or in China?

There are actually three primary types of "rubber" that you might find! Some of them are dangerous, and others are not:

• Natural rubber. Did you know that rubber originally came from a tree? The tree known as the rubber tree has a sap that can be refined into a thick, plastic-like substance we know as rubber. It's all-natural, though some people (and potentially dogs) may have allergies to it as it's plant material.
• Synthetic rubber. Synthetic rubber is essentially a type of plastic. It's made out of petroleum, refined through various processes, and turned into a rubber-like material. Unfortunately, most rubber products today are synthetic rubber, not natural rubber.
• Fake rubber. There are many toys out there with a rubber-like feel to them that aren't actually rubber at all. They're plastics pretending to be rubber and are often worse than natural rubber in a number of ways.

So, the truth is, natural rubber is not inherently dangerous unless your dog is somehow allergic to it, which is quite rare.

It all depends on whether or not the toy is made out of chemicals that can be harmful, coated in toxic chemicals, or even packaged with chemicals that can be potentially harmful.

Unfortunately, it can be tough to tell one from another unless you have a full in-home chemistry lab and can test them yourself, but we're pretty sure you don't! So, you're going to have to rely on what the manufacturer says. So, watch out.

"Marketing is not necessarily truthful. Just because the package says it’s good for your puppy doesn’t mean it is and doesn’t mean it isn’t..." - Phyllis DeGioia, Veterinary Partner Editor

That's why we only stock products we trust and why we always recommend that you only buy from a brand that you trust to be safe for your pup.

What Are the Risks of a Bad Dog Toy?

We've mentioned dangerous chemicals, but what are the actual risks you might encounter with dog toys?

• PVC is a kind of plastic that is naturally very hard and can shatter. Since that's bad for toys, most PVC is treated with other chemicals to make it soft and pliable. Unfortunately, those chemicals are also dangerous to your dog and could be responsible for liver and kidney damage.
• While it might sound like a noise you make to entertain a baby, phthalates are chemicals often added to plastics to soften them. They can leech out and enter your dog's body through the gums and go on to poison the liver or kidneys.
• Bisphenol A is another chemical often found in plastics. Bisphenol A can leech out into your pup's mouth or through their skin. It can potentially cause changes to hormones and other parts of the body. Worse, the damage isn't often apparent until it's too late!
• We all know about the dangers of lead, which is why it has been removed from virtually every domestic product. Unfortunately, lead contamination is still common, especially with toys produced overseas. The issue of toxicity in China-manufactured toys is a well documented world-wide issue. It has been widely reported around the world. Simply run a quick google search on "toxicity in toys made in China" and you'll find enough information that will make you feel like throwing out anything plastic that came from China in your house. Check out some must read articles here, here, here, and here. Lead can cause organ damage, damage to the nervous system, muscle spasms, and more. As consumer affairs.com found, unfortunately it is not just toxins in rubber dog toys made in China a concern for pet parents.
• Chromium is an essential nutrient for both humans and dogs, but it can be toxic in large amounts. Too much of it can even cause cancer!
• Melamine is another kind of plastic, often used in harder or more rigid toys. It's safe to use for things like dishes and utensils for people, but it can be toxic if consumed, and your dog is much more likely to eat a bit of a dog toy than you are.
• Typically used as a preservative, formaldehyde is occasionally found in rawhide and other "skin" products. It's not as much of a risk with most rubber toys, but there might be some cross-contamination if the two are produced in the same factory.

Those are generally the most significant risks, but there are other chemicals and dangers that you might find.

One commonality with a lot of these chemicals is that they're safe unless they're ingested. Since rubber toys are not intended to be ingested like say a dog treat, these chemicals are permitted to be included in the product.

But what happens to dog toys? Well, your fur baby is going to be chewing on them, of course! Bits of toys that chip or break off are commonly swallowed, and that's where problems arise.

A person can know to stop chewing on something before it breaks, but most pups don't have that kind of awareness and will chew on a toy for hours.

Rubber dog toys can also break into chunks that can cause blockages in the throat or the gut, which can be life threatening. Check out this story on how a broken plastic dog toy sickened a dog

That's why you should always keep an eye on the toys your dog is using and make sure to replace any that are starting to break apart.

Who Regulates Rubber Dog Toys?

According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, over 76 million dogs are kept as pets in America alone.

With such a sizable population, you would think that there would be some regulating force keeping them safe. You know, like the Food and Drug Administration testing foods and drugs for people. Is there some kind of Feline and Dog Association?

Unfortunately, there isn't! There's no central authority testing and ensuring the safety of pet products. Not one!

• The Food and Drug Administration works primarily with human products and doesn't do much for pet products. In fact the FDA clearly shows on their website that pet accessories, such as toys, beds, and crates are not FDA regulated.
• The Consumer Product Safety Commission also primarily works with human products. They'll occasionally issue a warning or recall for hazardous pet products, but it's few and far between. Usually, it's in cases where a human might also be handling a pet toy.
• The American Pet Products Association sounds like it would be the go-to organization, but they're not a regulatory body. In other words, they don't have the power to issue regulations or controls. All they can do is perform some tests and issue warnings.

In other words, there's no one out there with authority to tell toy makers to avoid dangerous chemicals.

Why would a dog toy maker create a product that's dangerous to dogs?

Unfortunately, it's usually just a matter of money. It's cheaper to use harmful plastic than to source safe plastic, so a factory in let's say China is more likely to go with the more affordable choice.

Sadly, there's just no governing organization out there making sure that your dog toys are safe. You have to do the best you can in a dangerous world.

How Can You Tell if a Rubber Toy is Dangerous?

If there's no central database of safe toys and no governing body saying which toys are dangerous, how can you figure it out on your own?

Considering that almost all dog product manufacturers have mastered the art of deception in product labeling, is buying safe dog toys a lost cause?

Well, you have a few options.

Check for product recalls or warnings. The first thing you can do is check to see if there are active or archived recalls or warnings about the toy or the manufacturer. The FDA will occasionally issue a recall or warning for particularly dangerous toys, which you can find here. You can also check with the Consumer Product Safety Commission to see if there are any active recalls. The American Pet Products Association may have some information as well. A good site to keep an eye on is Ecology Center. They test consumer products for toxic chemicals.

Check for reviews of the product or manufacturer. While the world of product reviews has been tainted with scandals (especially on the largest eCommerce platforms) and they cannot be taken at face value, you've got to start somewhere. Any time you're shopping for a dog toy, whether it's rubber or not, you should take a look at reviews online. Look for reviews of the toy specifically and then look for reviews of the company. Make sure that there are no complaints and no signs of issues with a toxic toy. You'd be surprised at how many big-name brands have toys full of toxic chemicals!

Look for warnings or guarantees on the product packaging. No toy will have a big "warning, full of toxic chemicals" label on it. You're looking for the opposite. Try to limit yourself to toys that explicitly say that they have no PVC, no BPAs, no lead, no chromium, and so on. A toy that doesn't say this isn't necessarily toxic, but it's better to be safe than sorry, right?

At all costs, avoid toys made overseas and look for products made in the USA with USA sourced materials. This is perhaps the most difficult recommendation as given the lack of regulation, the pet industry is flooded with Chinese dog toys.

Most pet parents are usually very aware of the dangers of buying pet food coming from China or made in the USA with Chinese ingredients. In many cases labeled as "globally sourced ingredients".

However, in most cases they are not aware that dog toys made in China expose their dogs to similar dangers.

In 2009, the Ecology Center, a nonprofit environmental organization, tested hundreds of pet products for the presence of toxins, many of which were manufactured in China. Of the approximately 400 products tested, 45 percent tested positive for the presence of at least one hazardous toxin, such as lead, mercury, and arsenic. These toxins can cause a multitude of serious problems in dogs including vomiting, diarrhea, convulsions, and brain damage. - Big Barker.com

According to Dr. Sharon Gwaltney, Vice President of the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center, lead is the toxin pet parents should be most concerned about.

Lead poisoning can cause abnormal behavior, vomiting, diarrhea, hiding in dark places and convulsions, which in younger dogs might be mistaken for distemper. In chronic form, lead poisoning results in anemia and weight loss. If not treated, it can cause death - ASPCA

In most cases, American dog toy manufacturers that actually manufacture their toys in the USA, will follow the Consumer Product Safety Commission's guidelines when it comes to pet toys. As scary as it may sound, imported products do not comply with CPSC guidelines.

Stop and think about it for a minute, why would they?

What incentives do overseas manufacturers have? Why would they devout costly resources to making dog toys safe when they can easily sell these products to unsuspecting pet parents like you while putting profits first?

As a consequence, some may contain as much as 100 times the amount of lead that’s considered safe.

I founded Toe Beans to improve the life of every fur family member and to use education as a tool to increase pet care literacy to empower pet parents to make better decisions on behalf of their beloved fur children. Read about our story here.

Get a testing kit. There are some testing kits available, usually at hardware stores. For example, you can buy a kit that tests for the presence of lead. It's primarily designed to test paint chips in an old house or check the water in areas with lead pipes. However, it can still potentially detect lead on a rubber dog toy. Unfortunately, these are impractical to buy for every toy you want to test.

Send the toy out for testing. A handful of different agencies will test a product you send them for dangerous or toxic chemicals. Unfortunately, this is quite expensive.

You're looking at spending hundreds of dollars per toy to get it tested, and you may not get the toy itself back! It would be better if a central regulatory body doing the testing for us all.

Look for third-party endorsements and certifications. If a dog toy states it is "safe" look for objective evidence of that claim on the product. Has the product been tested for safety? if so, do they have an Intertek or other certification? If it states non-toxic, has it been tested for toxins? does it have a USDA certified organic certification? or perhaps the product is Bio-based certified?

The bottom line is any product claims that would make you buy a product should be third-party tested. In a world where anybody can make anything in China and sell it online, pet parents should beware of scammers and unscrupulous actors.

Avoid rubber toys entirely. If rubber and plastic toys are so full of problems, why even get one? Why not limit yourself solely to natural, bio-based products?

What Toys Should You Get Instead?

Our best recommendation is to simply avoid rubber and plastic toys entirely. Sure, they might be safe, but there's also a possibility that they are not.

Can you tell? Without spending a ton of money on testing, you're going to be guessing and trusting a toy manufacturer. Unfortunately, dog toys are not held to the same regulatory standards, and harmful chemicals in chewable toys are commonly sold and eaten.

Instead, we recommend getting toys that are made out of natural biobased materials, such as cotton.

Our dog ropes, for example, are certified by the USDA as including 100% biobased materials. No plastic threads, no rubber, no chemicals, no colorants, no BPAs, no lead; you don't have to worry about anything.

Your pup can chew on it for hours without worrying about them ingesting chemicals or accidentally swallowing pieces of rubber.

They do not last as much as rubber but you will have peace of mind.

Make sure you're also following good habits when playing with your dog.

Don't let them chew and play unsupervised. If they start to tear apart their toys, it's time to take them away and get a replacement.

Avoid giving your pup anything too small because they can swallow and choke on the pieces.

And, of course, make sure you keep an eye on your dog's habits. Any unusual developments, whether it's excessive barking, limping, sluggish reactions, vomiting, seizures, or other unnatural reactions, are cause for concern.

Remember, regardless of what you may read on other blogs, just like for us humans, there's no "safe" level of toxic chemicals. Even a tiny amount can be dangerous for a dog, particularly small or young dogs.

Their bodies are much smaller than ours, and a small amount of chemicals to us may be a significant amount for them. It's better to stay on the safe side and buy dog toys made out of all-natural materials.

We all want our fur babies to stay safe, happy, and healthy. Toys are an important part of that. You can't avoid toys entirely; your dog needs enrichment and activity, after all. The best thing you can do is make sure your dog is getting the best, healthiest toys they can.

Do you have a favorite toy or healthy tip you would like to recommend? Do you know of a toy that caused problems for your pup that you want to warn others about? Either way, please let us know in the comments section below! Tell us about your dog and their favorite toys; we love to hear your stories.

They say sharing is caring. On our blog sharing is just one click away. If you found this guide helpful, will you share the love with fellow poodle parents? Click on any social media button on this post to spread the love.

Read Further

• What Types of Dog Toys Can Damage Your Dog's Teeth?
• Buy Non-Toxic Dog Rope Toys Made in The USA
• 5 Best DIY Holiday Gifts for your Cat and Dog
• Are Dog Rope Toys Safe? How to Spot and Avoid Dangerous Ropes
• How to Select a Safe Dog Rope Toy

Caring for Your Dog, Naturally

At toe beans, we know that your dog’s health and happiness are your top priorities. That’s why we’ve dedicated ourselves to creating products that are not only safe and non-toxic but also environmentally friendly and American-made.

From our dog grooming supplies to USDA organic dog treats, every product is made with your dog’s well-being in mind. We carefully source all our materials from trusted U.S. suppliers to ensure the highest quality and safety for your pet.

Keep your dog healthy, happy, and smelling good all the time with our organic dog shampoo and explore the benefits of our dog balms for nourishing their skin and paws. We believe in providing clean, sustainable products that you can trust.

Take the first step toward better care for your furry friend. Shop our Online Pet Store today and discover the toe beans difference.