What you don't think of as often is our cats doing the same thing. Yet they can and they will; cats will happily pursue your meal and, given half the chance, might steal it right off your plate while you glance away for a moment.

There are a few differences, of course. Dogs are generally a lot more obedient and receptive to commands, so when you tell them to stop begging and go to their bed or stay out of the dining room, they'll usually listen. Cats, though? While you can train a cat, whether or not they listen to your commands is another story.

Note that this is primarily a post about your cat begging for table scraps and human food when you're making or eating your own meals. For cats who beg for their own food around meal times (or whenever they want to eat), that's another story. Some of the same tips will work, but it's a subject worth another post of its own. If you want me to write that one, let me know in the comments!

So, if you have a cat that loves nothing more than to beg for a bite of your dinner – or who leaps onto the table and tries to take it for themselves – you likely want to deal with it. The question is, how? The good news is that it's possible, but it may take some trial and error and some frustration until you get it right.

Why It's a Good Idea to Stop Your Cat from Begging

First, let's talk a little bit about why it's a good idea to train this behavior out of your feline friend. Cats are small, and while they can be pushy, it's not exactly that difficult to shove them away while you eat, right?

There are a few reasons why it's a good idea to stop begging behaviors.

• A pushy cat can be unpleasant to deal with during meal times.

• There's a small element of danger; if you push your cat away and they cling, you can be scratched.

• Many human foods are dangerous or toxic to cats, but they don't know that, so if they steal a bite, it can end up hurting them.

• Cats aren't likely to discriminate, and a cat being pushy at mealtimes can be unpleasant for guests you have over.

So, training begging out of your cat isn't just for mealtime comfort; it's for both your safety and the safety of your feline friend.

Why Cats Beg for Food

As with most behaviors and most training, it's generally a good idea to know why your cat is begging so you can diagnose the root cause and address it if possible.

Now, sometimes, none of these causes apply. Sometimes, your cat just likes you and wants to share in what you're doing with you, and since what you're doing is focusing your attention on your plate, they want to do that, too.

Your cat is on a diet and is hungry.

One of the most common reasons why cats beg for food is because they're hungry. Sure, it sounds obvious, but surprisingly, people often overlook this as a cause.

It's most common with obese cats who are being put on caloric restrictions, but it can also crop up with cats that are just used to being able to free graze, or adoptions that were fed more at a shelter, or were used to hunting a local bird or rodent whenever they were hungry.

One thing to consider is if you've recently switched to an automatic feeder, which might be handing out smaller portions than you normally would. That's not necessarily a bad thing for your cat's health, but it might be a cause you didn't think of right away.

Your cat is having their food stolen.

This is most common if you have two cats, a cat and a dog, or a cat and another pet around the house, like a ferret. You feed your animals, but the one who finishes first goes on to bully the other out of food or just steal some of it.

At the root, it's the same cause as the above; your cat is just hungry. In this case, though, your cat is being pushed out of eating their full allotment of food.

I've even heard of cases where indoor/outdoor cats (or even neighborhood strays) sneak in through a doggy door and steal food, and the parent in the house doesn't notice.

If you have multiple animals in your house or access to the outdoors, try finding a more isolated space where you can feed your cat and see if that helps.

Your cat has a health condition affecting digestion or cravings.

There are a bunch of different medical conditions that can cause hunger, change metabolism, or make your cat feel like they should beg for more food.

Diabetes and hyperthyroidism are both issues that can lead to excessive hunger and thirst, even if your cat is eating enough. They just aren't digesting and using the energy properly, so they end up hungry.

There are also other diseases that can impact digestion or the ability to pull energy from food. Kidney disease, gut diseases, temporary illnesses, cancers, and more can all cause problems.

Mouth, tooth, and other dental diseases can also be a cause.

Your cat wants to eat, but they find it painful, so they can't eat their fill. But they're still hungry, so they beg for food even if they have it.

If this begging is a new, sudden behavior, and you haven't changed anything that could be attributed as a cause, like swapping their food, you might consider bringing them to the vet for a checkup.

Your cat has a parasite.

Parasites, by their very nature, pull nutrients from their host. Your cat is effectively eating for two, against their will.

Worms are the most common cause and are especially prevalent in cats that spend time outdoors. Things like fleas are less likely to cause begging because of how little they pull from your cat.

You will usually see other signs of worms as well. Upset stomachs, vomiting, bloody stool, diarrhea, a pot-bellied appearance, and visible worm segments around their rear end can all be signs. For these, a vet trip and some medication can clear it up.

Your cat is picky about their food.

Some cats like change in their routine. If you feed them the same thing all the time, they'll get bored of it and stop eating all of the food you give them.

Varying up the flavors in the wet foods, changing brands for dry foods, mixing the two, and other options can all spice things up without having to resort to human food.

Your cat has a behavioral quirk.

This is my last catch-all cause.

Your cat is just greedy. Some cats are! If you have a regular little Garfield who would love nothing more than snarfing down a whole lasagna, it happens.

Just like some people have a greater love of food than others, so do some cats. The begging can still be trained away; it just doesn't have as easy a cause to diagnose.

Your cat is bored. Begging is a way to get some attention from you and something to do. If you notice that your cat begs for food, but when you give them food, they don't seem very interested, there's a decent chance that what they're begging for is your attention instead.

Your cat has developed a habit of begging. Some cats just learn that when they beg for food, you provide it, even if it's during scheduled mealtimes. It's a reinforced behavior, and you may have unwittingly trained your cat to beg around mealtimes. Fortunately, again, this isn't too hard to train away once you realize that's what's happening.

Enough about the causes: how do you stop your cat from begging for food?

Step 0: Don't Give Them Your Food

It might sound obvious, but you need to be extremely disciplined about not letting your cat have any human food at meal times.

Whether it's you, your spouse, your friends, or your kids, make sure everyone knows that kitty can't have human food.

Step 1: Check for Signs of Medical Problems

The first thing you want to do is give your cat a solid once-over and make sure they don't have any of the medical issues I mentioned above.

You'll want to:

• Check their litter box for signs of diarrhea, bloody stool, or other problems.

• Check their rear for signs of worms.

• Check their mouth for signs of abscesses, cavities, broken teeth, gum disease, or other mouth problems.

• Check their body for signs of bloating, parasites, intestinal blockages, lumps, or other problems.

If you don't notice anything, you can move on to the next step. You might also consider scheduling a near-future vet trip for a medical once-over, especially if you're not confident or if you're getting a bad vibe from your furry friend. Cats are very adept at hiding their problems, after all.

Step 2: Establish a Feeding Routine

Cats are very much creatures of habit, and that means they prefer being fed in the same place and at the same time every day. If you're late or you change things up, your cat might take to begging to remind you.

Bear in mind that cats might need different feeding schedules, especially if you have cats of different ages. Some cats thrive on multiple smaller meals throughout the day, while others prefer a more normal 2-3 times per day schedule. Consistency is the key, either way.

While you're at it, check for signs that your cat is being bullied out of their food by another animal in the house. If it's happening, you may need to isolate your creatures during feeding times.

Step 3: Work on Training the Begging Away

If your cat is begging, how do you train them to stop?

One of the most important things to do is don't give in. You need to ignore your cat when they beg and refuse to give them so much as a single treat or bit of kibble (unless it's normal meal times.) You shouldn't talk back to them, make eye contact, or pet them, either.

Yes, sometimes your cat will be very pushy and might jump onto you to scream in your face about it.

Just move them away, or get up and move, possibly even closing them in a room so you can eat elsewhere in peace. You need your cat to learn that begging doesn't work.

During this time, you can work on positive training using their meal as the reward. They'll already be food-motivated since they're hungry, so it will work more easily than many other kinds of training.

Cat Food Begging FAQ

To round things out, here are a couple of questions I didn't have a place for up above.

Should you startle or scare your cat to stop begging?

While a loud clap, a spray bottle, or other discouragement can get your cat to stop begging, it's also a terrible thing to do. It stresses them out, makes them anxious, and can hurt your bond with your furry friend.

You want to use positive training methods, not negative behaviors.

Should you consider a puzzle feeder?

Puzzle feeders are usually more of a thing for dogs to slow down aggressive eating, but they can also work for cats. A puzzle feeder can help with the slow-grazing kind of throughout-the-day feeding method and helps keep your cat more engaged.

The trick is that you have to make sure you don't give them treats, or they'll just come to you begging when the puzzle feeder seems like too much work.

What are the chances that begging is a medical problem?

Fairly low. While medical problems can cause begging, most of the time, you'll see other symptoms instead, and your cat might actually be more prone to hide during mealtimes so they don't risk showing their pain to others.

Begging is essentially never an emergency vet trigger, but it might be worth mentioning at your next regular checkup or on a quick phone call or video visit.

Do you have any questions? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you with an answer as soon as I can!

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Purebred cats are often quirky in their own ways, with breed characteristics that make them iconic in appearance, behavior, and personality. They can be an absolute joy! They can also be expensive, as pure breeds often end up prone to certain illnesses. They may not be for everyone, but for those who care for and love them, it's a great feeling knowing they're something special.

Among the many possible purebred cats out there is the Bengal. You've probably heard of them and seen their leopard-like appearance, and you wonder: is a Bengal cat right for you? I'm here to help you make that decision.

What is the History of the Bengal Cat Breed?

Have you ever looked at a giant wild cat – a lion, a tiger, an ocelot, or a leopard – and thought, "Wow, I'd love to have one of those!" Unless you're a criminal, you can't, but a Bengal is the next best thing.

While Bengals share an appearance with certain wild cats, like the leopard, they have much more in common with our normal domestic felines. That's by design!

In fact, the Bengal is the result of a selective breeding program started in the 1960s by a woman named Jean Mill. Jean, like many of us, was fascinated by wild cats. On a trip to Southeast Asia, she saw the Leopard Cat – a relatively small wild cat native to the area.

The Asian Leopard Cat is about the same size as our domesticated cats. It's also a relatively friendly wild cat, as far as wild cats go – with archeological evidence suggesting that it was domesticated 5,000+ years ago in certain areas of China. The modern Leopard Cat is, of course, a wild cat, but the potential is there.

Leopard Cats are classified as Least Concern as far as endangerment as a species today, but back in the '60s, they were coming a lot closer to extinction due to poaching and fur trading. Kittens of the species were often sold as keepsakes, a sort of living souvenir, and Jean Mill bought one.

While the kitten Jean adopted – named Malaysia – was a solitary and skeptical animal, it did take to the partnership of a domestic black cat Jean also kept around, and in a twist that surprised many at the time, produced a viable kitten.

In any other story, you might think this would be an immediate turn to the goal of breeding cats, but Jean didn't take to it right away. It wasn't until 15 years later that she read a study about certain types of cats and cat cross-breeds that had an immunity to feline leukemia, including cross-breeds of leopard cats.

It was at this point that Jean started to work with those scientists to develop the species we now know as the Bengal. Her breeding incorporated elements of Leopard Cats and other breeds like Burma and Mau.

She faced many challenges, including hybrid males that ended up sterile (a common problem with near-species cross-breeds, like Mules and Ligers), but eventually produced the breed we know and love today.

What Are the Breed Characteristics of Bengal Cats?

What makes a Bengal a Bengal?

In most ways, Bengal cats are more or less the same as domestic cats. They may have some lineage of the wild cat, but their personalities are much closer to that of our lovable feline friends. The main thing the wild breeds add to the mix is the unique and striking fur coat.

Bengals look exotic. They're usually a shade of orange, ranging from faint orange to deeper, almost-brown orange. Their coat is mottled with spots like a leopard, with stripes on the legs and tail, all made of dark brown or almost black patches.

What does the F mean? Sometimes, when you're looking at Bengals, you'll see a label like "F4 Bengal" or "F2 Bengal" for the breed. The lower the number, the closer the cat is to the original wild cat in the lineage. It's a generational number!

Often, due to their more reclusive and hesitant natures, F1/2/3 Bengals aren't allowed (by state law!) to be generally adopted. F4 and higher tend to be much more outgoing and more like domesticated cats.

Over time, other varieties of Bengals have cropped up as well and been selectively bred by breeders and catteries around the world. Lighter, very pale versions are called Snow Lynx Bengals. Strikingly black-and-white cats are called Silver Bengals.

Blue Bengals have a blue-gray coloring that almost appears blue in the light. Some Bengals have the original black cat heritage and look almost pure black until their spots are revealed in the light. You can see an illustration here.

• Lifespan: 10-16 years on average.

• Coat: Short, though some long-hair Bengals, called Cashmeres, exist.

• Energy level: High.

• Attitude: Bold and affectionate.

In addition to their strikingly wild look, Bengals are ferociously playful, very social, vocal, and too clever for their own good. Get those child locks out and get ready to deal with a furry escape artist because a Bengal won't let anything stop them if they have places to be.

Training a Bengal Cat

Bengals are very intelligent, and they can learn quickly. They're very playful and interactive, and they have a lot of energy, so they really need a lot of stimulation and interaction to stay happy.

Basic cat training is often relatively easy with Bengals, and they pick up what you're putting down relatively quickly. Things like litter training, training them not to scratch the furniture, and training them out of certain behaviors (or into others) is quick and relatively painless.

Bengals can also learn some tricks. They can be almost dog-like in how responsive they can be to certain commands, and you can train a Bengal to sit, to come, to shake, or to jump. Just remember to use positive reinforcement and be consistent with your training!

One fun thing about Bengals is that they're actually pretty easy to harness-train. You can teach your Bengal how to happily wear a harness and leash, and then you can take them out for walks and explore just like you would a dog.

Bengals even enjoy water! Whether it's hopping into the bath with you or taking a dip in a pool or pond when you're out, they'll happily swim around when the mood strikes them.

When they're not getting into trouble or having fun, Bengals love to explore, and they are fantastic jumpers. If you're wondering where your Bengal is, check on top of the cupboards and shelves first.

And, at the end of the day, Bengals form close bonds with their parents and tend to be very affectionate.

Warning: If you're not able to spend a lot of time and energy on your cat, don't get a Bengal. They really need attention, play, and affection to thrive, and if you have to leave them alone for eight hours a day while you work, you're going to have a lot of issues with them. They will also get into anything and everything if they can, which can be dangerous if you haven't properly cat-proofed your home.

To sum it all up, Bengal cats are a bit much, in all the best and worst ways.

Do Bengal Cats Have Health Issues?

Purebreds of any animal tend to have health issues unless they're very, very carefully controlled, and even then, it's sometimes just an unavoidable fact of genetics. What about Bengals?

There's good news and bad news here.

The good news is that Bengals are considered a pretty healthy cat breed. Since the breed is new, and it wasn't developed until after we had a pretty good societal understanding of genetics (at least the basics), many of the common causes of health issues in purebreds aren't there.

You don't have the stubby snouts, the tendency for kidney issues, or the susceptibility to diseases that you get from breeds that were produced through hundreds of years of inbreeding.

Bengals do, however, have some tendencies. They are particularly prone to eye problems, including progressive retinal atrophy, cataracts (no pun intended), and an eyelid issue called entropion.

They are also more prone to cardiomyopathy and joint issues than your usual domestic feline. It's also possible that Bengals are more likely than other breeds to develop lymphoma.

Bengals are also generally extra-sensitive to anesthesia, particularly ketamine. This means a vet needs to know how to deal with the breed for procedures like surgeries, where their normal anesthetic protocol could risk severe side effects on a Bengal.

Some Bengals go their whole lives without any of these issues, while others develop them surprisingly young. The key is to know what to watch for and, if your cat experiences any of them, to know how to deal with it.

How to Care For a Bengal Cat

Bengals don't need a lot beyond what most cats need. They're generally short-haired, so you only need to brush them every few days. Their nails need to be trimmed and their teeth need care, but that's the same as any cat.

The areas where Bengals need more attention are energy, exercise, and mental stimulation. A little automatic toy that swings a feather around won't cut it. Bengals have very high energy levels, and they're very smart, so they do best when you can dedicate time to playing with them in ways that engage their mind, not just their body.

One thing to be careful of is that Bengals can be a bit fierce when they play, and they can be very skeptical of newcomers. They can become fast friends with other cats, dogs, children, and other pets. But, if they get overstimulated, they can lash out.

Their playtime can get surprisingly violent, too, and another animal that isn't used to or prepared for it runs the risk of getting hurt. That applies to people and kids, too.

Food puzzles, training, vertical playgrounds, and fetch are all good options to play with a Bengal. They also love watching the outdoors, so make sure they have a nice shelf or platform near a window.

Where to Find a Bengal Cat to Adopt

As a pure breed, Bengals can be difficult to find.

This is a difficult question to answer, and not just because I don't know where you're reading this from. I'm generally against breeders on principle because there are millions of loving and deserving cats out there in shelters who run the risk of being euthanized.

There are, however, dedicated purebred rescue organizations across the country. Groups like SPCR in the Midwest help to rehome purebreds of all breeds.

Breed-specific rescues like Bengal Rescue (which operates in the west and southwest) and their partners, Great Lakes Bengal Rescue, can also be good options. You can also use more generic services like Chewy or Petfinder, though you never know for sure who is on the other end of such sites.

Adopt, don't shop. That's the only ethical way to get a purebred cat these days, with so many looking for their forever homes when life has abandoned them.

And, yes, Bengals can be expensive. Specialty rescues tend to charge higher fees than your average local shelter through a combination of demand, issues with unscrupulous adopters, and more. Whether you're looking at $500 or $1,000 for a cat, it wouldn't be a surprise. Though, even that is still cheaper than a breeder, so it's a win, really.

If you can rescue a Bengal, and you have the time and attention to give them, you'll be rewarded with one of the most intelligent, affectionate, and incredible cats in the world. Otherwise, I'd recommend setting your sights a little lower and checking out your local shelter for someone to love for more than just the spots on their coat.

Do you have any questions about Bengal cats? If so, I'm always more than happy to help however I can, so be sure to leave me a comment down below!

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In the past, I wrote about excessive licking in dogs – what causes it, why they do it, what it means, and why it can be a problem. For the part, that post was focused on licking other things, like the floors, the walls, or you. I did briefly mention the side effects of licking at themselves too much, but it wasn't the focus of the post.

Today, I wanted to talk a little more about self-licking. Sometimes, dogs end up seemingly fixated on licking themselves, particularly their paws. This can cause a bunch of issues, but the most common are "lick granulomas", which is just a fancy name for an open sore caused by excessive licking. It can also cause infections in cuts and scrapes they get naturally, and irritate other problems, making it take longer to heal.

While a little licking and chewing at their feet can be grooming, excessive licking can cause all sorts of issues. Obviously, if it's causing problems, you want it to stop. The question is, how? I'll get to that, but there's some ground to cover first.

Why Dogs are Licking Their Paws

To solve a problem, you first need to know what is causing the problem. What causes a dog to lick their paws excessively?

Grooming

The first option is grooming, and it's probably the least likely cause on this list, just because it generally won't be excessive. Grooming is just how they clean their feet, getting bits of dirt off of their toes and working out sand from in between them.

Excessive grooming can happen, but it's generally caused by something else, like some of the other options we'll get to later.

Injuries

Probably the most common cause of excessive foot licking, by far, is injuries. If they stepped on excessively hot pavement and burned a paw pad, if they stepped on a thorny plant and got a sticker in their paw, if they cut their paw on something rough or sharp outside, if they got stung or bit by an insect, it doesn't really matter.

What matters is that their foot hurts or is irritated, and they don't have very many ways to deal with that. The best option their furry little minds can think of is to soothe it with licking, so lick they do.

The problem, of course, is that licking isn't actually going to solve any of those issues. Worse, it's just as likely to keep irritating them, and their dirty little mouths can even cause an infection.

Injuries can range from small irritations that will heal in a day or two to serious problems that need a vet trip. It depends on the scope of the injury and the likelihood of infection, so make sure to check their paws!

Dermatitis

Dermatitis is the fancy medical word for skin irritation and inflammation. If you ever get a rash from poison ivy or an allergy, that's dermatitis. Dogs can get dermatitis from bacterial issues, from allergic reactions, and even from food sensitivities.

They can also develop it because of chemicals on the ground they walk on – it can be especially common in winter due to road treatments and other chemicals, or when lawn treatments or pesticides are used – and can even be caused by plants they walk on.

Fortunately, while this can be annoying to diagnose, it's relatively easy to treat. The trick is figuring out what is causing it specifically and avoiding letting your fur baby walk on whatever it is.

Parasites

Another semi-common cause is parasites. In particular, fleas and mange mites can cause your fur baby to be very itchy, especially around the paws.

Obviously, parasites are a known and solvable issue, so if they're what's causing excessive licking, it's a quick treatment away from relief.

Generalized Pain

One of the more difficult to address causes of excessive licking is very similar to the first: pain, and an attempt to soothe that pain. The trouble is, what happens if the pain is internal? Something like a fractured or broken toe would be obvious and solvable, but something like arthritis or a slowly growing tumor might not be obvious without testing.

This cause generally requires diagnosis and treatment from a vet, so if you've ruled out all of the easier causes, you will have to bring them in.

Behavioral Issues

This is one of the major elements I focused on in the previous post I linked up at the start. Behavioral issues, ranging from compulsive behaviors to boredom or anxiety, can cause your pup to lick at themselves just out of a need for stimulation.

Sometimes, this might be treatable with medications, while other times, it might mean you need to give them something to redirect their behavior or keep them entertained. It depends on what kind of behavioral issue is cropping up, really.

Other Health Problems

Sometimes, if your pooch has another health issue, they might be sore or stressed or irritated in ways they don't know how to express, so they lick to try to soothe themselves. Things like yeast infections, bacterial infections, and other illnesses can all cause this behavior.

Generally speaking, you'll notice other behavioral issues as well if this is the case, like lethargy, a lack of appetite, odd-colored stool, and so on. As you might expect, it's time to talk to a vet if your doggo is sick.

How to Get Your Dog to Stop Excessively Licking Their Paws

Now that you have some idea of why your pup is licking at their paws constantly, how do you solve the problem?

Step 1: Diagnose the Cause

The first thing you need to do is figure out which of the causes above is the one that's occurring.

Generally speaking, the first step is to look at their paws and see if there are signs of injury or irritation. If it's a surface-level injury or signs of topical irritation, it's easier to solve than if it's arthritis, a behavioral issue, or something more internal.

If you can't figure out what the cause is, it might be time to talk to your vet. As long as they aren't licking themselves raw and bloody, it probably isn't emergency vet material, but a regular vet visit isn't a bad idea.

Step 2: Treat the Cause

Once you have identified the cause, treat it if you can.

• If it's an injury and it's minor, see if it needs antiseptic or just cleaning and bandaging.

• If it's an injury and more major, have the vet handle it as necessary.

• If it's an infection, medication may be provided to deal with it.

• If it's inflammation or irritation, soothing creams and potentially steroids can be used.

• If it's pain or behavioral-related, talk to your vet about what may be necessary.

• If it's parasites, antiparasitic medications are easily accessible.

• If it's boredom, play with them more or give them an outlet when you're not available.

All but the most serious causes can be handled either at home, with over-the-counter treatments, or with a phone or video call with a vet to diagnose and prescribe something. The most serious issues need a vet examination and potentially other tests, like blood tests, to figure it out.

In rare cases, other kinds of treatments may be necessary. For example, if they end up having a cyst or small tumor, it may need surgery to remove.

Sometimes, irritated skin won't heal on its own, and cryotherapy may be necessary to remove it and start from a fresh wound for healing. And, of course, sometimes all you need is an anti-itch cream.

Step 3: Prevent the Licking

While you're waiting for a treatment to work, you'll want to do what you can to prevent your pup from continuing to lick at their paws and making the problem worse.

For temporary, short-term, day or two healing, an e-collar can be perfectly effective. If all you need to do is stop them from licking long enough for some irritation to heal, that's a fine option.

You might also consider something like dog booties or other foot coverings. You want something they can't easily pull off, and that won't hinder their ability to move around.

And, of course, you want something that isn't going to irritate their feet. Fortunately, there are a lot of potential products out there you can use.

In more extreme circumstances, you might need some kind of treatment that makes their feet taste bad to them, so they stop because it's gross. Bitter apple or citrus juices can do the trick, though something too strong might make their life unpleasant even when they aren't licking.

Be careful not to use these kinds of treatments on open wounds or irritated skin, as it can be painful for them.

Step 4: Remove External Factors

External causes of excessive licking generally come down to things like a food allergy, an irritation due to a chemical you're using somewhere inside or outside the home, or just boredom or anxiety.

You can try to remove these as factors.

• Change their food if a food irritation may be causing the problem.

• Remove plants from places they walk – or take them to other places to walk – to avoid irritation.

• Give them more things to do to alleviate their boredom or separation anxiety.

You won't always be able to fully control the environment and keep them from stepping in something that irritates their feet, but as long as you have ways to deal with it before they lick themselves raw, you're ahead of the curve.

Step 5: Paw Cleaning and Paw Balm

Two things worth mentioning as additional options are paw balms and paw cleaning.

Paw cleaning is a simple, but sometimes annoying, habit you'll need to get into. Basically, just keep a bit of water and a towel near the door.

Whenever they go outside, whether you're just letting them run around the yard, or you're taking them for a walk, or they've been out with you shopping or to the vet, make the entryway a checkpoint.

All you need to do is give their paws a quick rinse and wipe down. This helps remove anything, like chemical residues and dirt, that could irritate their paws.

Even if they aren't irritated right away, that irritation can develop later in the day as the residue lingers, and then comes the licking. Dealing with it right away is a great option.

The downside is that it's just One More Thing You Have To Do when you get home with your pup, and it's a hard habit to build and keep. Once you get it going, though, it's not too bad.

The second is a paw balm. There are a variety of kinds of paw balms – we sell three – but they all serve more or less the same purpose.

They help keep your dog's paws supple, soft, and healthy. They're often hydrating and moisturizing to prevent dry and cracked skin.

They can provide a small barrier against chemicals and residues, though hot pavement will still burn. They can even help speed up healing when your pup ends up with an irritation or inflammation.

Once the problem has been solved and the causes have been addressed, you should be good to go. It's fairly rare for excessive licking to be any sort of emergency, and if it is, you'll definitely notice other signs, whether it's bleeding, serious behavior changes, or something worse.

Have you ever experienced a dog that wouldn't stop licking their paws, seemingly no matter what you did? If so, what did the cause turn out to be, and how did you solve it? I've seen all sorts of things, but I'm curious what else may be out there.

Choosing Safer, Healthier Dog Products Starts With Knowing Exactly What's in Them

If you’ve ever lost a dog to illness—or spent nights worrying over what might be hiding in that overseas-made treat—you’re not alone.

Many of us trusted the packaging, only to learn too late that some overseas-made pet products contain cancer-causing chemicals, toxic dyes, and mystery ingredients we can’t even pronounce.

At toe beans, we believe pet parents like us deserve better, much better.

Why "Made in the USA" Isn’t Just a Label at toe beans

Many dog supply brands out there are quick to make the “made in the USA” claim, while failing to disclose that the raw materials in their products actually come from the same mass-production, low-cost labor countries overseas you're trying to avoid.

Oftentimes, such brands will claim "made in the USA with globally sourced ingredients/raw materials" as the country of origin designation for raw materials they don't really want you to know the true origin.

We believe every pet parent has the right to know exactly what went into the products they buy and what country they were produced in. Knowing such information can make the difference between long and short-living dogs as well as the quality of life they live.

That's why, we take a totally different and radical approach. With a few exceptions, all pet supplies on the toe beans catalog are crafted either in our own facility in the USA or by carefully vetted small-batch American artisans we know and trust.

It’s in our DNA to keep the strictest controls and oversight in our supply chains to source only the cleanest raw materials the world has to offer—organic, sustainable, toxin-free, and third-party certified.

Our products are manufactured using raw materials backed by trusted certifications including USDA Organic, USDA Bio-based, FSC^®, GOTS^®, and Oeko-Tex^® to ensure the highest safety standards from end to end. Learn more about toe beans raw materials certifications here.

So whether your pup is stretched out on our orthopedic dog beds, enjoying a handful of our Momma Knows Best Organics^® USDA Certified Organic Dog Treats, or burning off energy with one of our eco-friendly dog toys, you can feel confident you’re giving them the healthiest care possible.

You Shouldn’t Have to Guess What’s in Your Dog’s Products

That’s why we are obsessed with transparency and making dog supplies any pet parent can trust — clean, honest, and radically transparent.

Every product in our catalog comes with a datasheet that we fondly call the product’s anatomy. In it, you can learn what exactly went into your products and where all raw materials come from – from the threads to the main components.

Sometimes we even disclose our raw material suppliers, such as in the case of our leather dog collars, where we clearly tell our customers where exactly our leather comes from.

Lack of transparency is, in fact, the main tool many dog supply resellers out there use to get away with baseless claims such as organic. Here is what we think when it comes down to buying products claiming organic status:

“If it claims organic but it's not third-party certified, don’t let it fool you, it's not bona fide.”

Just some food for thought. Discover what safe, non-toxic, and organic really looks and feels like. Browse our collection of USA-made Organic Dog Products and give your pup the cleanest clean the world has to offer — no compromises.

Some commercial cat foods are full of filler. Some include sub-par ingredients that might not be bad right now but can be bad in the long term, especially if contaminants build up in your cat's system. Sometimes, they just include allergens, and your cat has a sensitive stomach and can't handle them.

There are plenty of reasons to consider making DIY, homemade cat food. But there's also a lot to consider. Let's talk about it!

Should You Make DIY Cat Food?

The first question that might come to mind is whether or not you should even consider making homemade cat food.

In my opinion, yes! There are a few good reasons to do it.

You know everything that goes into your cat's food when you make it yourself.

This is possibly the biggest reason; you know everything that goes into a recipe you make. With commercial cat foods, you often see ingredients listed that you might not know what they are or you might not like. Things like:

• Poultry by-product meal

• Corn gluten meal

• Soybean meal

• Dried bifidobacterium animalis fermentation product

• Natural flavors

Since the FDA doesn't regulate pet foods as much as it regulates human foods – and we already have a lot of shortcuts and tricky information in our own food – it can be very difficult to read the ingredients on a pet food label and understand what's truly in the food.

To be clear, most of the time, the ingredients are fine for your cat. It might not be the best possible food, but it's not likely to actively hurt them. The trouble is, you can't necessarily tell that, and there seems to be a scandal every year or two about pet food hurting pets.

You can customize their food if they have allergies or sensitive stomachs.

This is a big one. Unlike human food, where allergens need to be disclosed, including if it was produced in a facility that also handles allergens, you don't get that kind of quality assurance with cat foods.

If your cat has an allergy to a given ingredient, it can be hard to tell if a commercial cat food has that ingredient in it. Even if it doesn't, if it's made in the same facility as a food that does, it can end up cross-contaminated, and there's no way you can tell until your fur baby starts showing signs of digestive distress.

When you DIY some homemade cat food, you know everything that goes into it and everything that doesn't.

You can change the recipe when your cat gets tired of it.

Raise your hand if your cat is a picky eater and turns their nose up at food on a regular basis, even food they've enjoyed in the past.

Everyone? Alright, hands down.

Most cats are at least somewhat picky eaters, and even if they aren't actively dismissive of the food you give them, there's a good chance they'll just want to change things up from time to time. When you buy normal cat food in bulk, that's pretty hard; what are you going to do with the extra 20 lbs. of kibble if they won't touch it anymore?

When you make their food, it's easy enough to mix up the main protein or a couple of key ingredients to get something new for them to enjoy. You also don't need to make huge batches and let some of it go bad, and if they decide mid-batch they don't care for it, you can freeze it for later.

You can usually make cat food cheaper than buying their food.

Another benefit to making your own cat food is that it ends up being cheaper at the end of the day. Depending on the kind of food you're buying for your cat, it can cost anywhere from $1.50 to $7 per day. When you make your own, the cost of the ingredients will work out to be less than $1.50 per day, almost no matter what you want to do.

Obviously, this can vary depending on how you source your ingredients. People with local butchers or with lower costs for certain ingredients locally can come out further ahead.

People who have trouble sourcing key ingredients might be more comparable to cheaper commercial cat foods. In those cases, the difference in quality is important enough to balance the scales.

It does take time to make your own cat food, but honestly, less than you might think.

You can also often do it on the side while you're making food for yourself, so you don't need to spend a dedicated chunk of time making your cat's food. Even then, it's still fine for most people.

If all of that hasn't convinced you to start making DIY cat food, I don't know what will.

What Does DIY Cat Food Need to Include?

Cats are obligate carnivores, but that doesn't mean you can just grind up some chicken breasts and call it good enough. They still need enough nutrition, including vitamins, minerals, fiber, and other ingredients, which means you need a good list of what to include.

You'll want to include:

• A primary protein. Most people start with chicken, but a variety of different primary proteins can work. Pork, eggs, beef, and even more exotic meats like duck, quail, and others are all fine.

• Supplements. Often, the meat you choose won't have all of the nutrients your cat needs. Cats evolved to catch and eat whole prey like birds and mice, including things like bones, organs, and blood. You'll need to replace those with added supplements like taurine, fish oil, and omega-3s.

• Fiber. You don't need a lot of fiber for homemade cat food, but you should have some. A good option is barley powder, which is relatively cheap and serves as a good filler when used in moderation.

Some people recommend grinding up the bones of poultry. Your cat can benefit from the calcium and other nutrients in the bones, but you need to make sure not to cook them so they don't turn sharp and brittle.

Should you cook the protein? That's actually up to you and your cat. Some cats prefer cooked meat, while others like it raw. As long as you cook it without spices, you're fine.

Overcooking the meat can destroy some of the nutrients in it and make it less pleasant for your furry friend to eat, so most people start with raw meat. That said, raw meat does have the potential for bacterial contamination, so keep an eye out for signs of infection after starting a homemade raw cat food diet.

What Should You Leave Out of DIY Cat Food?

One of the benefits of making cat food at home is that it's easy to make a fairly simple recipe. There are a lot of things you generally want to leave out of the food you make, though.

First of all, make sure you avoid any of the human food ingredients that are toxic or bad for cats. I have a whole post about it here, but to replicate the list:

• Alcohols

• Yeasts

• Chocolate

• Coffee and Tea

• Citrus Fruits

• Coconut

• Dairy Products

• Grapes

• Eggs

• Alliums like Onions and Garlic

• Nuts

• Xylitol

• Tomatoes

• Salt

You also want to avoid fillers in excess. A little bit of fiber filler and carbohydrates are fine, but too much will end up hurting your cat in the long term, and that's what you're trying to avoid in the first place.

What about oils? Oils are a good way to get some healthy fats, vitamins, and supplemental nutrients into cat food, but you need to use them in moderation and only use the right kinds of oils. Fish oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, and flaxseed oil are fine, but don't use too much.

Should You Change DIY Cat Food Recipes?

I already mentioned this a little bit above, but there's a pretty good chance that your cat, even if they initially love the DIY cat food recipe you make, is going to get tired of it over time.

I generally recommend only making 1-2 weeks' worth of food at a time so that if they start to get tired of it, you don't have a lot of wasted food they won't eat.

You can change the recipe from time to time, so long as you're as close to nutritionally complete with each recipe as you can be.

What's a Good Recipe for DIY Cat Food?

There are as many recipes for DIY cat food as there are people making them.

Rather than reproduce any here, here are a few links to recipes you can read up on and decide if you want to use them:

• Beef and Barley Cat Food from Cats Magazine

• 5 Vet-Approved Homemade Cat Foods from Cats.com

• Two Options for Homemade Cat Food from Know Better Pet Food

As you can see, they're all pretty simple and don't require a lot of time, equipment, or expensive ingredients. It's easy enough to change them up to suit your fur baby's needs, too.

DIY Cat Food FAQ

Now, let's cover a few points I didn't have space for in the main post, as well as some questions I've been asked about DIY cat foods.

Is DIY cat food cheaper?

Almost always, yes, but various factors can cause the numbers to not quite line up.

If you're going for gourmet, organic meats and high-tier supplements to make your DIY cat food, it's going to be comparatively more expensive than other kinds of homemade cat food recipes. It can be comparable in expense to the cheaper or even mid-range cat foods you would buy at the store.

On the other hand, if you're normally feeding your cat expensive organic food because they have nutritional sensitivities or other issues, making your own food will pretty much always be cheaper.

If cost is your primary concern, consider keeping track of the price of ingredients and doing the math for yourself. It will probably work out in favor of homemade cat food!

Is DIY cat food better for cats?

If you make it right, yes!

This is one of the biggest issues, though.

Many commercial cat foods are engineered to be nutritionally complete, but they may also have excessive amounts of some nutrients or too much filler.

They might also just not be high quality. A lot of these pet foods tend to use scraps and refuse from other meat processing, so the starting ingredients aren't great, and the added nutrients are of lower quality to avoid being too expensive.

While they keep your cat fed, they might not keep your cat healthy. It's why obesity, kidney issues, and other problems can be common in our furry friends.

When you make your cat food at home, you have full control over the ingredients and can make it as high quality as you want. As long as you make sure you're giving them all of the nutrients they need, you'll be good. I recommend running your recipe by your vet to make sure it has everything your fur baby needs.

Should DIY cat food be different for cats of different ages?

Yes!

Kittens, adult cats, and senior cats all need different nutrition to stay healthy. Kittens need more calories and a different balance of nutrients to stay healthy and grow big and strong. Meanwhile, senior cats are more likely to have health issues that need a dietary adjustment.

The post above is pretty much entirely focused on otherwise healthy (or slightly obese) adult cats. Make sure to talk to your vet about homemade food for kittens or for senior cats with different health needs to guarantee that you're giving them what they need.

As always, if you have any questions about this article, please feel free to let me know! I'd be more than happy to help however I can!

Elevating Cat Care with Sustainability and Safety

Choose Non-Toxic, Ethical Products for Your Cat

Picture your cat curling up in a bed made from the softest, toxin-free materials. Imagine them playing with truly USDA organic catnip, free from harmful pesticides and grown in US soil. At toe beans, we turn that vision into reality.

From our USDA organic cat grass to our chemical-free cat beds, we source every raw material, choosing only those backed by the world’s most renowned third-party certifications.

As manufacturers, we maintain complete control over our supply chains. This allows us to ensure that we only partner with suppliers that share our values. As a result, your cat supplies are not only free from harsh chemicals but also contain the cleanest raw materials free from forced labor and other unethical practices common in global supply chains.

At toe beans we don’t cut corners. We raise the bar. Shop our cat collection today.

Obviously, there are differences between breeds; a tiny breed isn't going to be able to pull a dog sled, while a huge breed will have trouble running an agility course, and some are better trackers or hunters than others.

Beyond that, though, we have to think about physical disabilities. Just like people, dogs can be born with congenital defects that hinder their abilities. Others might contract illnesses or suffer injuries when they're very young.

Blindness is not a common problem in young dogs, though it can still occur. Those puppies deserve just as much love and affection as any other, but many people may be unwilling or unable to provide them with the care they need. Training a blind puppy can present a lot of challenges, but with dedication, time, and love, they can be overcome.

If you're willing and able to care for a blind puppy and train them in all the things they'll need to know when they grow, I salute you. To help, I've put together this list of ten of the most useful tips I can find, backed by expert dog trainers and behavioralists.

Let's get right to it!

1: Understand Differences

One thing that can be worth thinking about is when your dog lost their sight.

Some dogs are born with either very limited or no vision. These dogs don't know anything different, and while those around them might act as though they can see, the blind puppy doesn't know that. Your puppy will adapt to not having sight with relative ease as long as you're there to help care for them.

For puppies who lose their sight early to injury or illness, don't lose heart. They will still be able to adapt, and probably quickly, too. They just won't adapt quite as fast, because they were learning how to navigate the world with sight, and they lost it and have to learn to compensate.

At the same time, these dogs have some advantages in having some basic idea of what the world is like and what scents might represent, even if they haven't really interacted with it much. They'll probably lose this over time, but it can help overcome some initial hurdles.

As for dogs that lose their vision later in life as mature adults or seniors, there is a whole other array of challenges to consider. Since you aren't as likely to need to train them, though, that's somewhat outside the scope of this post. Some of the tips can still help, though, so keep reading!

2: Be Gentle and Patient

The Browns from Alpha Paws Training recommend being patient and gentle when training a blind pup. Blind dogs may be slower, more hesitant, and less confident in their explorations of the world around them.

They will still be receptive to learning new things, but the usual dog training schedules might not apply. You'll probably need to take longer to train them in certain things and be kind and gentle if they're having issues or accidents.

This is one of the greatest challenges of training a special needs dog. It can feel like they're stuck in their training or they aren't making progress fast enough, and it can be disheartening. Many people have a crisis around this time and consider giving up their pups to someone who has more time and ability to train them.

In my view, as long as you aren't neglecting them or made a promise to do something you couldn't, there's no shame in giving up a special needs pup. They deserve love and care, and if you can't provide it, it's better to hand them over to someone who can instead of struggling in a way that hurts both you and the puppy in the long run.

3: Create a Household Scent Map

Jennifer Mauger, a contributor to Chewy, says one of the most important things you can do is build a household scent map.

A household scent map is a fairly simple thing to build; all you need to do is get something like a bottle of vanilla extract or a lavender essential oil. Rosemary, Cedarwood, and Frankincense are all also good options. These are all scents dogs like and are pleasant enough to people that they won't be unpleasant.

A scent map just means you take that scent and dab a little bit of it on various parts of your home where your dog should know something is there. Corners, doorways, the legs of furniture, even walls.

Since your dog will have a keen sense of smell even though they're blind, they can use this to build a mental map of where things are. This helps them avoid running into walls or furniture, so it's both safe and enjoyable for your pup.

You can even dab some scent on their toys so they know where to find them! You don't need to use different scents for everything (though you can use different scents for different categories of objects, like one for walls and one for toys); just one or two will serve the purpose.

4: Use Clicker Training

Susan Gary of Top Dog Pet Sitters highly recommends clicker training. A clicker is just a small, sharp noisemaker with a button that makes a click when you press it. It's an auditory signal that a blind dog can learn and hear; critically, it's unique enough that your dog won't mistake other noises for it, which is essential for reliable training.

The click alone doesn't mean anything. Your first task with clicker training is to associate the click with a positive outcome, usually a treat. Just click and offer a treat periodically throughout the day to associate the noise with the reward.

Once that's in place – and it won't take long – all you need to do is use the click to identify a specific behavior you want to reinforce. So, say you're teaching your blind puppy to sit; when you say sit, and they sit, the instant their butt touches the ground, click and reward. Eventually, you can drop the reward aspect; the click is enough to reinforce a behavior.

You can read more about clicker training in this guide from the American Kennel Club.

5: Teach a Stop Command

Another important element of training a blind dog is training them to stop on a dime. You can't afford a dog that will run wildly and ignore your commands; there are all kinds of things they can run into or encounter that can be dangerous.

Moreover, there's only so much you can do to dog-proof everything around you. In your house, sure, you can keep things out of head level or away from their common paths, as well as scent-mark things that can't be removed. But other things can change or can't be marked. The edge of a pool or a pond, the trailer hitch on a truck, road traffic, the list goes on.

In these cases, having a firm command that your dog always obeys and that gets them to stop no matter what is critical.

6: Teach Step Up

Another useful command to teach your blind pooch is "step up" or "step down." These are simple commands that serve to warn your pup that a step like a curb or other short stumbling block is just ahead. This can help prevent tripping up or down that step.

While a single misstep is unlikely to cause an injury, it can lead to them being more cautious and hesitant because they don't know when the ground is going to jump out at them (or drop out from under them.)

If you've ever been leaning back in a chair and felt that jolt of almost falling or missed a step when climbing the stairs, imagine how they feel with the same experience but no eyesight.

7: Consider Household Safety

Lara Shannon of Pooches at Play recommends taking some serious time to make your household as safe as possible for your dog. Get down on their level and look at anything that could be head level or below that could cause an issue.

Consider things like:

• Adding corner protectors to doorways and other corners so that even if your dog gets excited and runs into one, they don't hurt themselves.

• Baby gates at the top of staircases so that your dog can't trip and fall down them, potentially injuring themselves in the tumble.

• Adding rugs or other surfaces to slippery floors and other footing hazards.

• Removing fallen branches and other low hazards in your yard where they could run into them while playing or doing their business.

• Adding markers around trees and other outside objects that can't be reliably scent-mapped; a simple ring of a different surface a foot or so out from the trunk of a tree can help warn your pooch something is coming up.

How much you do and what you need to focus on will depend on where you live and what your dog is like. Consider things from their perspective and make them as safe as possible.

8: Don't Rescue Them

Gillian Young, from the Wonder Dog Institute, says one thing you need to do is avoid "rescuing" your pup from common obstacles. It's one thing to snatch them up from a dangerous situation; that's fine. What you want to avoid is "rescuing" them from things that are just a little hard for them.

For example, if your blind dog is having trouble climbing stairs, your goal is to train them to be more confident going up and down the stairs. If you just pick them up and bring them up the stairs in your arms, it can hinder their training and even disorient them.

Blind dogs rely on their other senses to get around, and a big part of that is building and maintaining a mental map of your home and the things in it. Picking them up and putting them down somewhere else means they have to spend time figuring out where they are, and that isn't always easy. Scent maps help, but it's still better not to do it to them in the first place.

Guiding and helping them remain independent is better in every respect.

9: Don't Do Too Much At Once

This is less of a specific tip and more of a story you can take a moral from. Mardi Richmond of Whole Dog Journal tells the story of Orbit, a blind dog who was well-trained and socialized by his parents. One of the biggest challenges he faced was sound, particularly ambient noise.

Blind dogs use scent to map the area around them, but they also use sound to build that awareness. They can hear quite well, too, and can get a lot of information from ambient noise.

The challenge is that we people often tune out a lot of that noise or take it for granted. Things like crowds, traffic, loud machinery, and other noises can be disregarded because we know what they are.

The trouble is, for a blind dog, that's all potentially relevant information. Suddenly being immersed in it can disorient and overwhelm them, especially if they aren't used to it. So, when you're introducing them to new circumstances, be mindful of the noise.

10: Work on Socialization with Well-Trained Dogs

Another tip from the Orbit story is to be slow and careful when socializing your blind dog with other dogs. Since your pup is blind, they won't be able to see the visual cues that other dogs give and expect to be received. Whether it's play bows, social hops, attempts to sniff, or just a wagging tail, it just won't be seen.

So, if the other dogs your dog is learning from are rambunctious, aggressive, or unlikely to recognize a dog without the right social cues, it can cause a communication issue.

The ideal is to make sure you're socializing your pup with stolid, calm, and unflappable dogs that can be just as graceful to a social faux paw as you will be.

As always, if you have any questions, please feel free to let me know! I'd be more than happy to help however I can!

Safe, Sustainable, and Stylish Supplies for Your Dog

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There are a lot of concerns and considerations with litter boxes, though. They can be gross and messy, a cat can miss their box, and there are even concerns about the kind of litter you choose to use.

What if you could skip the box and train your cat to do what you do: use the toilet? It might sound far-fetched, but it's possible. Let's talk about it!

Why Do People Train Cats to Use the Toilet?

First, we can talk a bit about why you might consider training your cat to use the toilet. There are a few reasons, but they're all things you can probably guess.

You just don't want to deal with scooping and cleaning a litter box. None of us actually enjoy cleaning a litter box, right? If you do, give me a call, and I'm sure we could make a lucrative business out of it. But, really, it's just a dirty, smelly job that needs doing all the time. It's one of the costs of parenting our little fuzzy furballs. But is it really something we always have to do?

You're tired of the expense and mess of cat litter. Especially if you're going for one of the more eco-friendly cat litters, the mess – dust, stray bits, excess litter – can get everywhere and can be just as obnoxious to clean up as the refuse your cat leaves in it. And really, who wouldn't want to save a few bucks a month? Cat litter can be expensive, especially if you have multiple cats and multiple boxes to keep clean.

You don't have a great place to put a litter box. Some people live in very small apartments or in shared housing where the only place they can put a litter box is, say, in the bedroom. Sometimes, the toilet is the most convenient option.

Despite the reasons you might decide to train your cat to use the toilet, there are some good reasons why you might want to hold off, so stay tuned for those later.

Can You Train Your Cat to Use the Toilet?

Well, I probably wouldn't be writing this post if it wasn't possible at all, right? Okay, to be fair, I probably would just because it's a topic people have asked about.

People have been training their cats to use the toilet for many years, though the practice wasn't really popularized until 2011 when some people decided to pitch a product on Shark Tank. That product, the CitiKitty, launched with moderate success and grew from there. These days, there are a bunch of other products in the same vein, like the Cat Throne, the Litter Kwitter, and a bunch of generically-named and off-brand versions on Amazon and the like.

The products work, and some cats can be trained to use the toilet to do their business. It's even a surprisingly simple process. But, you'll note an important word I just said: some.

Some cats are perfectly happy to be trained to use the toilet. Others are very skeptical and hesitant about the idea. Some just don't want to do it at all. So, it really comes down to your specific cat, whether or not they take to the idea.

The benefits of training your cat to use the toilet are pretty obvious, too. You don't have to deal with cat litter, the smell of cat litter and cat droppings won't permeate your home the way they do in homes with litter boxes, and it can help you free up a bit of space and leave behind the litter box. That just leaves us with one question: how do you do it?

How Do You Train Your Cat to Use the Toilet?

Fortunately, if you're going to try to train your cat to use the toilet instead of a litter box, it's a relatively easy process.

My biggest tip would be to buy one of the products that helps you do it. They're relatively cheap – usually under $50, though some are as expensive as $130 – but you can always try to resell it later or keep it for the next time you need to train a cat.

That said, if you don't want to buy a product, you can do it yourself. Cardboard, wax paper, and other household items can make a serviceable replacement as long as you're willing to put a little arts and crafts into it.

Step 1: Move Their Litter Box to The Bathroom

If your feline friend's litter box is anywhere else in the house, your first job is to move it into the bathroom, ideally right next to the toilet.

While this sounds like an easy step, it's a little harder than it sounds. That's because the further away the litter box is from the toilet, the longer you need to take to do it. If you just move the litter box all the way across the house all at once, your cat might not be able to find it when they need to go, and they're more likely to go where it was. So, you need to move it in stages, from one side of the room to the other, then to the next room, and across that room, and so forth.

This is made even harder if you have to traverse a common area or an open area during that move. Cats don't like to do their business where they feel exposed! So, you might need to invest in a litter box enclosure of some kind, which you move with the litter box inside it.

Let your cat set the pace here. If they have an accident during this process, move it back to the last place they successfully used it, and don't be afraid to take your time. The more litter mishaps they have, the more likely it is that your training won't work.

Step 2: Raise the Litter Box Bit By Bit

Your second step is to get your cat used to jumping up into the litter box. Since you're going to be training them to use the toilet, and the toilet is obviously at a height convenient for humans, your cat will need to jump up onto it to do their business. But, putting their litter box up on what is effectively a shelf right away can make them feel uncomfortable, and they might not want to use it. So, instead, raise it an inch or two at a time. Again, this will take a while until you get it to toilet seat height, so be sure to take your time with it.

The biggest tip I can give you here is to make absolutely certain the litter box is weighted or secured in a way that will keep it from tipping or moving when your cat jumps up onto it. Whether that means putting a weight on it (or in it), zip-tying it to a stand, or securing it in some other way, just make sure it's secure. The absolute worst thing that can happen now is for your cat to jump up and have the whole thing tip over, spilling litter, anything in the litter, and your cat, and leaving them scared of the experience.

This is also a great place to do a little training for yourself. If you're used to putting the toilet lid down when you're done using it, you want to break that habit. Two reasons! One, if your cat jumps up onto your toilet to then step down into the litter box, you don't want them to jump in a suddenly open seat and startle themselves. Two, if you leave the seat closed once your cat is more well-trained, they'll have nowhere to go.

Step 3: Start Using the Training Box

At this point, it's a simple matter to make your toilet into a litter box. You start by just putting a tray over the top with some litter in it, which is effectively just moving the litter box over a bit. Then, over time, you start "opening up" the hole.

When you look at any of the commercial products meant for this training, you see what I mean. It's basically just a series of nested rings and a cap in the middle. You start with it closed, then remove the middle so that you get used to there being a hole there. Then, you gradually remove ring after ring until there's nothing left but the toilet seat.

Different cats will take a different amount of time to get used to the change each step of the way. Some will reach a certain point and stop, which means either you need to go back a step or your cat might not be willing to go any further. Depending on the size of the gap they stop, you may be able to continue with using it, or you might not. It all depends on your cat!

At this point, you might want to keep an eye on your cat and give them a reward when they use the toilet properly. This isn't always necessary, but it can help with some of the more hesitant felines.

A question I often see here is if you should try to teach your cat to flush. You can if you want, but keep in mind that cats just do things sometimes, so if you don't want to wake up in the middle of the night to your cat repeatedly flushing the toilet, maybe leave that behavior out of the training.

What Are the Drawbacks to Training a Cat Using the Toilet?

Up above, I mentioned that there are some reasons why you might not want to do this training. While it works for some people, there are some reasons to consider not doing so and just dealing with a litter box. Let's go over them.

First, your cat doesn't get to scratch and dig after doing their business. This is a natural instinct your cat has to bury their waste, and it has secondary benefits like helping to temper their claws and clean their paws. They don't get to do that with the toilet, and that can be stressful for some cats.

Another possible issue is if you have more than one cat, they might fight over the territory. Generally, the advice is to have one litter box plus one box per cat so they all can have their own safe territory to do their business. If you only have one toilet, or if you only have two but have more than two cats, it can cause problems.

Next, using the toilet means perching on the seat, which can be awkward for some cats. It's not a natural position compared to what they do in the litter box, and some cats find it unpleasant. In extreme circumstances, this can even cause some bowel issues.

In some cases, if your cat slips and falls in, it can startle them and stress them into not using the toilet. It only takes one accident to undo a lot of training, and then you're left dealing with litter accidents and a litter box again.

One of the more important drawbacks is that you miss signs of medical problems. A lot of common medical issues are only diagnosed when you notice that your cat's urine or feces are different than normal, but when it's dunked into the toilet and diluted or breaks down, you don't notice that until the problem gets worse.

Finally, when your cat gets older, they might not be able to do it anymore. Cats with joint or mobility problems can't make the jump as easily, they might not be able to perch comfortably enough on the seat to do the deed, and they might lose their balance.

Overall, training a cat to use the toilet can be an interesting trick, and it can be beneficial if you have certain cramped, small living conditions, but a lot of the time, it isn't really worth it.

If you have any questions about anything I covered in this article, be sure to let me know in the comments section!

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They're still babies, so they're still learning how to exist in this wild world of ours, and it's our job to make sure they're set up to succeed as best they can.

Potty training isn't necessarily easy. You need to keep track of their needs and their progress, make sure they aren't suffering from an allergy or dietary sensitivity, and they aren't getting into things they should that lead to accidents.

It also requires you to be very consistent, to make sure your pup knows when you take them to potty, it's for potty, not for play or socialization. While you can potty train a dog of any age, it's easiest and most effective when they're very young.

Sometimes, unfortunately, your pup may regress in their training. If they're still a puppy and they're still in the midst of training, a regression might just mean accidents you need to deal with. If they're an older dog, incontinence can be a greater concern.

So, what can cause potty training regression, and what can you do about it? Let's talk about it.

What is Puppy Potty Training Regression?

Potty training regression generally refers to your puppy having accidents they shouldn't be having. Say, for example, you've been taking your puppy out to potty every couple of hours, but they're getting better at holding it, and you're able to let them go for 4-5 hours at a time instead.

For a few weeks, they've been good, with no indoor accidents, going outside when you bring them outside for it, and all seems well.

Then, out of nowhere, they start having accidents inside again. It's not necessarily even just a single accident, but a series; it seems like you're going to have to go back to every two hours, and the broken sleep once again.

This is potty training regression: a return to an earlier point in the potty training schedule, accidents when there weren't accidents before, and the frustration of seeing things go awry.

Are There Different Kinds of Puppy Potty Training Regression?

While a regression is a regression, the age and level of training of your puppy can mean different things.

If your puppy is regressing when they're around four months old, it's probably the most common kind of regression, which is just progressing training schedules too much, too soon.

We like to think that our puppies are more or less fully potty trained around this age, but that's really just optimistic. Most puppies take a little longer, and a regression at this point is normal.

If your puppy is regressing when they're closer to seven or eight months old, it's also a very common reason: training tends to lighten up. You don't want to have to give your pup a treat every time they go to the bathroom, right?

So, you're probably lightening up on the training and the positive reinforcement, and that can make training regress. Basically, you just have to stick with the training – and the rewards – a little longer.

If your puppy is regressing when they're around 10 or 11 months old, there are a handful of reasons why it might be happening. This is a time when puppies are starting to reach sexual maturity, which causes a lot of changes.

Male puppies are more likely to start marking their territory – which isn't quite the same as an accident – and female puppies are dealing with floods of hormones and distractions.

If your puppy is regressing when they're a year or more older, it's less likely to be a training regression, and more likely to be something like a medical issue. I'll talk more about that in my list of possible causes.

If your dog is much older – into their senior years – and they're having accidents, it's regression in another sense. Sadly, it's a sign of doggy dementia. Again, more on that in a bit.

What Are the Different Causes of Puppy Potty Training Regression?

There are a ton of different reasons why potty training regression can happen. Some of them are behavioral, some of them are reactionary, some of them are medical. Let's talk about them!

Regression Due to Overestimation or Overeating

One of the first – and thankfully, least bad – causes of regression is that your puppy simply can't hold it in any longer. One of two things happens here.

The first is that you've overestimated how long your puppy can hold their bowels, and you're not taking them out as often as they need to go.

Young puppies only have so much ability to control themselves, and when you're training them, your goal is to extend that amount of time. But, just like we people, if they go too long without having the chance to go, they'll experience cramping, pain, and, eventually, involuntary incontinence.

The solution here is simply to keep track of how long they can go without going, and don't push too far, too fast.

The second possibility here is that you've overestimated your puppy's capacity for food and water. When you drink a lot of water, you have to pee a lot sooner than you would if you don't drink much water. You can't deny your puppy food and water, of course, but if they overeat or drink too much, they'll have to go sooner rather than later.

This is particularly common when you're getting them more exercise, playing a lot to tire them out, and then bring them back in and let them drink until they're restored. You'll probably need to take them back out right away, but if you don't think about it, you might not realize that, which leads to an accident, and a regression.

Fortunately, this is just another case of vigilance. You need to pay more attention to the situation and take them out when they need it.

Regression Due to Medical Issues

Another common cause of potty training regressions – and accidents as your puppy gets older – is medical problems.

All sorts of medical problems can cause regressions. Some of the most common include:

• A urinary tract infection, or UTI, which causes irritation and pain as well as a loss of bladder control.
• Diabetes, which is rare in young puppies but can occur due to genetic or congenital factors, and needs to be appropriately managed to prevent incontinence.
• Inflammatory bowel disease, which is a chronic condition characterized by bowels that don't work quite right and get inflamed easily, leading to incontinence and other symptoms.
• Kidney disease, which can be caused by a bunch of different factors, including undetected UTIs, and cause more accidents.
• Medicine side effects. Sometimes if your puppy is on another medication, they can have side effects including incontinence. Your prescribing vet should tell you about it, so you can prepare, and it should alleviate once they're off the medication.

If you're taking your puppy out on a tight schedule and they shouldn't be having issues, but they're still having regressions, you might consider taking them to the vet as soon as you can.

It's not "rush them to the emergency vet" dangerous, but you should still schedule a rapid consultation if you can. UTIs and other infections are no joke, and chronic conditions need to be managed to prevent problems down the line.

In some cases, a simple medication or a change in diet is all you need to solve the regressions. Other times, you may need more long-term treatments.

Regression Due to Stress or Anxiety

Another cause you might consider is significant sources of stress and anxiety.

Some dogs get separation anxiety, which can manifest particularly when you're away at work or you're asleep at night.

Whether it's night crying, accidents, barking, whining, or other behavioral issues, it's a kind of anxiety that needs to be handled before it becomes a huge disruption.

Other times, it might be because of a change in lifestyle or routine. If you recently had to move to a new house, for example, a whole unfamiliar place can be very stressful and can lead to regressions. Similarly, major life changes can do the same.

Similarly, if you're getting another new animal, uncertainty with the new pet might also cause problems. A particularly sensitive puppy might relieve themselves out of submissiveness, or they may be bullied, or they may just be anxious and scared. This usually alleviates with proper socialization.

Regression Due to Allergies or Sensitivities

As you might expect, the cause of incontinence might not actually be a regression in training, but rather, a problem with what your puppy is eating.

Allergies can cause stomach upset, which can lead to diarrhea and incontinence. Sensitivities are the same, but are broadly less dangerous.

A sensitivity can be disruptive to the digestive system and is definitely unpleasant, but an allergy can be both very damaging to their systems and even, in some cases, fatal.

If you've switched to a new food or a new treat recently and regressions have started happening, check to see if there's an ingredient your puppy might be sensitive to or allergic to. You might also talk to your vet about allergy tests. There are some tests, like a RAST test, which can help identify allergies.

Regression Due to Faulty Training

Unfortunately, one of the other common causes of potty training regression in dogs is faulty training.

If you're not consistent enough about it, or you stop giving rewards too soon, or if you just hit a point where you assume they should be trained and treat them as if they are, they can regress because they aren't being given the constant feedback. While this is definitely a pet parent mistake, it's at least easily fixable by buckling down and taking training more seriously.

Even if your dog seems like they're very good at letting you know when they need to go, they aren't always actually aware of it themselves, and you might not always recognize the signals they're giving you, especially if you're distracted. Similarly, if you're co-parenting, your partner might also not be on the same page as you, and that can cause problems as well.

Puppy Potty Training Regression FAQ

Let's wrap things up with a few of the common questions I get about puppy potty training and training regression.

Is potty training regression dangerous?

Usually, no. It's annoying for you to have to clean up the mess when it happens, it's stressful for your puppy if they're stuck in a crate with that mess and can't distance themselves from it, but it's not itself dangerous.

The danger comes from if the root cause of their regression is medical. Medical issues like infections or allergies require diagnosis and appropriate treatment, and if you don't get them, they can get worse and have disastrous consequences. If you're at all unsure of why a regression is happening, call your vet!

Is puppy potty training regression normal?

Unfortunately, yes. There are a lot of possible causes of potty training regression, almost all of which are fairly common. In a way, it's almost rare to have a puppy that doesn't experience at least one regression. That's really just part of the training process.

Does regression mean you did something wrong?

Maybe, but not necessarily. If it's something you did, it's either because of a lifestyle or schedule change that stressed out your puppy, or it's because you're rushing their training when you should be taking more time to make sure it's reinforced. Either way, it's relatively easily corrected; just like your puppy, you need to learn and grow.

At the end of the day, the biggest thing you need to know is that potty training regressions are normal and can happen for a lot longer than you might think.

Don't take it as a personal failure, and definitely don't take it out on your pooch! You both want what's best for each other, so act with kindness and keep up the training. I promise things will work out.

If you have any additional questions that I haven't covered in this article, be sure to let me know in the comments section! I'd be more than happy to help however I can!

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The idea that they're natural enemies has a foundation in reality, though, so it's something you need to know and account for when you're introducing the two.

If you have a household with established cats, and you want to bring a new puppy into the fold, you need to do so very carefully. If your cats get the wrong first impression, it can set the tone for their whole relationship, and the last thing you want is antagonism between your beloved furry children.

So, let's talk about what you need to do to successfully introduce a new puppy to your cats!

Why Cats and Dogs Don't Get Along

Cartoons may have you believe that cats and dogs do nothing but fight, but there are also plenty of adorable photos showing the exact opposite, and that copacetic relationship is what you really want.

But why is it that cats and dogs so often don't get along? Well, it comes down almost entirely to behaviors.

The dog prey drive.

For example, dogs have an engrained prey drive instinct. This is the same instinct that compels dogs to play fetch, chase squirrels, and – in the case of herding breeds – round up livestock or even people.

So, when they see something smaller than them, like a cat, they're likely to try to chase it around. For a cat, of course, that's incredibly stressful and terrifying; they feel like they're being, well, chased and hunted.

Even if the dog doesn't do anything to them but say hi, lick, or play when they catch them, the cat is likely going to be very stressed about the whole process.

Dogs are also usually larger than cats, so it's a lot easier for the cat to feel threatened by them, even if the adorable doggo is just a huge puppy.

Body language of cats and dogs.

There are also fundamental differences in body language. In a dog, wagging a tail is a sign of happiness; for a cat, a swishing tail is a sign of agitation and irritation. So, a dog seeing a cat's tail swishing around might interpret it as a time to play and be social, while the cat just wants to be left alone.

Eye contact is also a big one. Cats lock eyes and stare when they're afraid or hunting; dogs lock eyes and watch when they're having a good time. Cats that are comfortable and happy tend to do long blinks and look away; dogs don't.

When you're bringing a dog into an established cat household, it's also important to realize that this feels like an intrusion on their territory.

Cats are pretty territorial and like to lay claim to their areas, and when a dog is added to the mix, it's another animal – another predator – taking over some of their space.

Depending on how defensive your cats are, this can be a huge source of stress and defensiveness.

How to Introduce a Puppy to Established Cats

If you want to bring a new puppy into a household with established cats, you need to go about things the right way.

Otherwise, you're going to have a lifetime of stress, fighting, and vigilance to make sure they don't hurt one another. Fortunately, this isn't uncommon, and introducing the dog as a puppy is the best option.

It's even better if you can have the cats socialized with dogs when they're kittens, but that's not always possible.

So, how do you go about the process?

Laying the groundwork for cats and dogs to coexist.

The first thing you need to do is make sure your cats have a lot of freedom they can use to escape the dog. Cats, when they're stressed and have had enough, prefer to retreat and hide to chill.

If they don't have a place they can go to relax and feel safe, they'll get more and more stressed until they lash out.

First, make sure there's a room where your cats can access, but your puppy isn't allowed. This might be a bathroom, a bedroom, or even a closet, but it needs to be a hiding place the dog can't get into so the cats can feel safe there.

Make sure they have the essentials in that room, including a litter box, food and water, toys, and a scratching post. This ideally won't be a permanent arrangement, but you definitely need it as long as your animals aren't comfortable with each other yet.

It might also be a good idea to set up some high perches and shelves where your cat can retreat to and your puppy can't.

Cats also like high places, and they can provide a bit of sanctuary from a rambunctious and energetic puppy, as well as a place your cat can go to watch this new creature without having to fully hide.

And, of course, remember that you're going to have to supervise every interaction between your new puppy and your cats for at least the next few weeks, if not months, until you're sure they're on good terms with each other.

Start with a barrier.

Just like when you're introducing two cats to each other, introducing a puppy to cats means you're going to need to keep them separate. You can't just bring a new puppy into the house, let them run wild, and expect things to work out.

Generally, you will want to designate one room or space for your puppy to be their sanctuary room, just like your cats have one. This is where your puppy will be confined outside of times when you take them on walks, to the vet, and for puppy training.

This will likely last for at least 3-4 days, and more likely for a week, depending on how the animals react to knowing each other is there.

To help foster some faint interactions, feed them on opposite sides of the same door, where they can smell and hear each other but not interact with each other. This helps them get used to the presence of the other animal in small doses.

Train your puppy early.

Speaking of puppy training, you definitely want to be working on the basic commands ASAP. In particular, you need them to be able to obey commands like "sit," "stay," "come," and "leave it" so that you can control them when they're interacting with your cats.

If you notice your puppy is harassing your cats and your cats aren't enjoying it, you need to be able to separate them, and a command is the easiest way to do so.

Start face to face meetings.

Once your critters are more comfortable with one another on the other side of a door, you can start to let them meet face-to-face.

It's best to avoid using either one of their sanctuary rooms for this, though some people prefer to set up something like a baby gate to keep the dog in theirs while the cats can see them.

Another option is to put your puppy in a harness and on their leash, and hold them by you while you allow the cats to roam as they want.

They'll likely be skeptical and skittish, but when they realize the dog can't chase them down or go after them, they'll feel a bit better exploring and watching from a distance.

For your part, this is where you really want to have managed some level of obedience training. If you can keep your pupper calm at your side, despite their instincts to go say hi to the new friends, it helps keep the cats calmer and friendlier.

Generally, you want to keep these meetings pretty short. It also helps if you have a friend or family member who can help supervise the cats, as well.

Finally, you want to have treats for both creatures on hand. Treats will help keep your puppy calmer and distracted from staring at the cats, and treats for the cats can help teach them that they're safe to eat and enjoy space and time despite the puppy being there.

If either side exhibits aggression, make sure to redirect that aggression, usually with a treat or a toy. It's all part of animal training, using positive reinforcement to distract away from problematic behaviors and reinforce better behaviors.

Progress to more unfettered social time.

Once your cats and your dog are more comfortable with each other's presence in the same room, you can start letting your puppy off their leash and allowing the two to interact.

You want the leash still attached, so you can stop them if a problem occurs, but ideally that won't happen.

If all goes well, you can continue to perform these meetings for longer and longer amounts of time until there's no need to keep supervising them.

If there's a squabble or a problem, you'll need to dial back and spend a bit more time on socialization.

It's still a good idea to keep the fuzzy babies separated when you aren't there to supervise, at least until you're sure they get along, so no problems happen when you're not available to redirect.

Puppy and Cat Introduction FAQ

Let's wrap things up with some common questions you might have.

Why do cats and dogs not get along?

It's mostly a matter of body language, honestly! Cats and dogs have similar body shapes and similar actions, but they interpret those actions in almost completely opposite ways, so when a cat is signaling, "Don't come close, I don't want to deal with you," your puppy reads it as "Come play with me!" and when your puppy is staring at the new friend in excitement and playfulness, your cat reads it as aggressive and hunting behavior.

Once your furry friends are familiar with each other, they get to know how to deal with these things, but the socialization process takes time.

How long does it take to socialize a puppy with cats?

This can depend a lot on the personalities of both the puppy and the cats. Some cats don't care much and take to any new friend almost immediately.

Others are very standoffish and will be defensive for a long time. Expect at least a month or two of socialization before you can let them be, and possibly more.

One thing to be aware of is that if you have cats that were strays or have had bad experiences with dogs in the past, it's going to be even harder to socialize them.

It should be possible, just time-consuming, so know what you're getting into before you sign the paperwork to adopt the puppy. There's nothing worse for the puppy or the people than having to surrender a puppy back to a shelter when they don't fit in with your existing household.

Does the breed of the puppy matter?

A little, but not as much as you might think. Different dogs of the same breed can have very different personalities, after all.

Dogs with more of a prey drive will have a harder time with initial socialization, and dogs with high energy levels will be more difficult for a cat to get used to. Larger puppies can present more of a challenge to cats as well, though small breed dogs can be more defensive.

Every dog presents their own challenges, though, so don't assume a rigid schedule is going to work. Adapt to the interactions you see!

What should you watch out for?

The biggest is when one animal bullies the other. We usually think of dogs as the dominant in these relationships because they're larger, but cats can be aggressive enough to counteract that and harass the puppy into submission.

Unfortunately, this stresses out the puppy and can lead to them lashing out when they're larger, which can injure or even kill a cat. Definitely make sure you're an advocate and mediator for both sides so they can't build up this kind of relationship.

You should also make sure that you feed them properly, in ways that they can't steal each other's food. Defensiveness over food is one of the biggest causes of problems between cats and dogs, so make sure to mediate it.

Do you have any other questions that I didn't cover in this article? If so, be sure to let me know in the comments section! I'd be more than happy to help you out.

The theory is that dogs, as descendants of wolves, are social pack animals. This has a lot of repercussions in dog training, or so the theory goes.

I want to talk a little about this today, and give you some tips to help you keep your dogs well-trained and under control.

The Problem with Alpha Theory

First, I want to talk a bit about where this theory is coming from, and why we can safely disregard it.

The theory is that in a pack of wolves, the social group needs to be dominated by the strongest and most competitive, usually aggressive, wolf of the group.

Less aggressive, weaker wolves are dominated, and as long as this social order is maintained, the pack can exist in harmony.

This theory comes from a study produced by David Mech and Rudolph Schenkel several decades ago. Unfortunately, there are a bunch of reasons why we should ignore it, even though a lot of people today even still promote it.

First of all, it was a study of captive wolves in an environment where food, space, and other resources were limited. In nature, wolves don't stay in situations like that.

They'll break up a pack, or they'll move territories, or the resource scarcity will "thin the herd" until an equilibrium is maintained.

There's on need for a dominant "alpha" wolf in nature, because it's a reaction to constrained environments and what was essentially forced conflict.

Moreover, the original studies ignored a lot of other wolf behaviors. Wolf packs are often a lot more social, collaborative, and mutually beneficial than they're often portrayed.

They form complex bonds and social relationships based on kinship, mutual assistance, and cooperation for things like raising puppies, hunting, or defending a den.

While there may be an "alpha" wolf, it's not a firm position and is more like a project leader; one wolf takes up the mantle for whatever needs doing and cedes it to another when another task is at hand.

There were also some serious flaws in the original research. For example, you probably know that a dog rolling on their back and exposing their belly is a submissive behavior, showing vulnerability; the original study actually attributed this as a dominant behavior!

And, of course, there's one very important detail that needs to be acknowledged: dogs aren't wolves!

The behaviors and social dynamics of ferocious predators roaming the forests of the country are very different from the behaviors and social dynamics of our adorable little fur babies, who would have trouble intimidating a fly and only have to hunt for your location when it's dinner time.

In case you still want to hold onto it, it's also important to remember that Mech and Schenkel, the original researchers, have even admitted that they got things wrong and have tried to retract the alpha theory, though it persists in popular culture despite their efforts.

Why Alpha Theory Doesn't Work for Dog Training

The biggest issue with alpha theory isn't necessarily that it's based on old research that is inaccurate and discredited. It's that the things it asks you to do to train your dog are generally a bad idea.

For example, if you train a dog using alpha theory, the idea is that you're trying to position yourself as a dominant "alpha" in your pack of two. This means:

• Depriving your dog of things like pets, attention, or even food if they aren't obedient.
• Depriving your dog of stress relief like toys and taking them away if they try to guard their limited resources.
• Using physical punishment as a warning for violating the "rules."

Many, many studies into dog training and decades of evolution in training processes have firmly covered this ground.

Deprivation and punishment simply don't work. Deprivation doesn't work because your dog is generally fairly simple-minded and isn't going to attach the cause to the effect.

Punishment doesn't work because dogs aren't as avoidant as they are motivated, so all you really end up teaching them is that violence is okay.

Moreover, all of these "training" methods end up stressing out your dog, making them less social, making them more prone to lashing out, and hindering socialization and friendliness. They may be more appropriate for a guard dog, but they certainly aren't effective for a beloved family pet. You end up with a dog that doesn't trust you, only the threat you represent, and that's not what I advocate for here on Toe Beans.

Five Tips for Proper Dog Training

Instead of relying on punishment and dominance, which are proven to be ineffective and actively harmful to the relationship you have with your fur baby, what can you do instead?

Here are my five tips for appropriate dog training. If you want to know more, here are a few other resources you can read as well.

• The Ultimate Guide: Teaching 20 Essential Dog Commands
• The Beginner's Guide to Off-Leash Training for Dogs
• What is Dog Recall Training and How Do You Start?
• Dog Parenting 101

If you're ready to abandon the idea of the "alpha dog" and learn how to really form a social bond with your pup, read on.

#1: Use Positive Reinforcement

We tend to think of reward and punishment as two sides of a coin, but in terms of classical conditioning, they only represent half of the spectrum.

There are two factors you control: beneficial and non-beneficial stimulus and the addition or removal of that stimulus. In other words, adding a good thing, adding a bad thing, taking away a good thing, or taking away a bad thing.

• Positive Reinforcement is like giving a dog a treat when they do something good.
• Positive Punishment is like kicking at a dog when they do something bad.
• Negative Reinforcement is like turning off an annoying noise when a dog does something good.
• Negative Punishment is like stopping petting a dog when they do something bad.

While technically, all of these have the potential to work, three of the four really don't. Trying to add an aversive stimulus – that is, like trying to hit a bad dog – is abusive and ineffective.

Meanwhile, the removal of a stimulus, good or bad, isn't itself an action that a dog is going to interpret properly.

By far, the most effective way to train a dog, or any other animal for that matter, is by rewarding them when they do what you want.

What most people don't realize is that you can even train away behaviors you don't like with this method through consistent observation.

If you want your dog to not bark at noises outside, you don't punish them when they bark; you watch them, and if they're about to bark, you distract them and reward them for not barking.

When they realize that barking means nothing but not barking gets them a treat, they'll stop barking.

The best weapon in your arsenal for training a dog is a bag of high-value treats, like bits of sausage or cheese. It really doesn't take much!

#2: Consistency is Critical

The second most important thing about dog training is consistency.

Consistency in:

• Your expectations. If you want a dog to learn not to jump up on people, don't let them jump up on you even though you don't mind it. Likewise, don't encourage them to sit on the couch if you don't want them to jump up onto other furniture.
• Your enforcement. If you reward them some of the time when they do something but not other times, they might not learn correctly. You won't need to reward them every time they do something you want forever, just until they've fully learned the behavior.
• Your family. Until a dog is fully trained, you need to make sure everyone who interacts with them for any length of time understands the training. That way your dog isn't getting mixed signals.

All of this is true, regardless of whether you're trying to train a new puppy to come when you call, or train a show dog in a more advanced series of tricks or commands.

#3: Pick the Right Rewards

Most of the time with dog training, what you need is a high-value treat, but what works best for one dog might not be the best for another.

For example:

• Small cubes of cheese are great for some dogs but upset the tummies of others.
• Small bits of sausage are usually a good option.
• Some dogs don't need a high-value treat, and a kibble or two is good enough.
• Some dogs aren't very food motivated and respond better to praise, pets, or a quick play session.

The tricky part is if you get a dog that isn't food-motivated. It can be harder to find a specific toy or bit of praise you can use as a reward, distinct from normal interaction with your pup. Keep at it, though; there's always going to be something!

#4: Keep Training Sessions Short

Another important tip for dog training is to keep training sessions short. This isn't like cram school where you're teaching a whole certification program in a few weeks of long days; it's more like life experience, gathered over time.

Most experts, including the American Kennel Club, recommend keeping training sessions short.

For dedicated training sessions, where you're trying to teach a dog a specific command, keep the sessions to no more than five minutes.

Dogs don't have very long attention spans, so the longer the session is, the more likely they are to get distracted, and that's when the chance for learning is over.

A lot of training isn't something you do in dedicated training sessions, though. It's something you address when you see it to sculpt behavior over time.

You aren't really doing dedicated sessions here; instead, everything is done as you see it. That's why it's important to keep the relevant treat on hand, at least until they age out of needing treats for training.

#5: Don't Bite Off More Than You Can Chew

One of the biggest stumbling blocks with dog training is trying to train too much, too fast. Puppies are fast learners, but you still need to start slow and train in the basic behaviors, especially if you want to get into more advanced training.

Think about those dog agility courses where an energetic pup runs through tunnels, in between poles, and over jumps.

That's not one course of training! Each of those obstacles is trained separately and built up into whole routines over time.

The same goes for any other dog training, even if all you're training is "come," "sit," and "fetch." The more you want them to learn, the longer it takes, and the more you should focus on a narrow set of commands before building into others.

Dog Training Tips FAQ

Let's wrap things up with a round-up of some common questions about being "the alpha" and dog training in general.

Is the alpha dominance training method effective?

Absolutely not. In fact, if you're trying to play for dominance, you're likely stressing out your dog and making them afraid of you, which makes them more likely to run, be defensive, snap at you, or turn mean.

Many poor dogs have even been put down because of this "uncontrollable" behavior, which is just a natural reaction to what amounts to abuse.

What should you avoid with dog training?

Dogs aren't very good at understanding the concept of punishment or negative reinforcement. If you're doing something negative to encourage or discourage certain behaviors, chances are it isn't going to work very well.

The only exception is something like taking away a toy when they get too rough with it. Most of the time, instead, you should redirect their behavior and reward them with a treat when they leave what they were doing behind.

How long does dog training take?

Good dog training is a lifelong commitment. But, training individual behaviors and tricks doesn't have to take more than a few weeks of dedicated effort. On the other hand, ongoing behaviors like night barking may take longer just because you can only train them when they would happen.

Do you have any other questions? If so, let me know in the comments!

Some of us are familiar enough with it that we keep track of those odors – unpleasant as they can be – as a sign of health.

One of the key factors that influence a dog's breath is their dental hygiene. Unfortunately, while dogs can be trained to do a lot, you really can't train them to brush their teeth, floss, or use mouthwash.

Even if they wanted to, they don't have hands! So, you have to do what you can to keep their teeth healthy and strong.

What Dental Care Does Your Dog Need?

Dogs need to keep their teeth for as long as possible because it's how they chew their food and how they handle things in their mouth.

If their teeth aren't properly cared for, they can cause pain, lead to infections, break, or fall out. Over time, your dog may end up without teeth entirely, and you'll need to adapt the kinds of food and other activities you perform with them.

What care does your dog's mouth need?

Daily Brushing

Ideally, you will brush your pupper's teeth once a day. The biology of the mouth is the same between dogs and people, more or less, and that means after they eat, bits of food, saliva, bacteria, and other stuff form a sticky plaque that adheres to teeth.

This plaque is alive due to the bacteria, which secrete acids as they live. Those acids eat away at teeth and cause inflammation, decay, and infection to gums and bone.

Therefore, the best time to brush your dog's teeth is shortly after a meal. However, as we often don't have the time or the patience to do that, you can pick any time that is convenient for you as long as it gets done.

Better Food

One of the dirty secrets of dog food is that many dog foods contain fillers. We all know this, of course, but what most people don't realize is that those fillers are often much worse for oral health than natural ingredients.

Things like grains and other carbohydrates are better food for the bad mouth bacteria and more readily form plaques. So, feeding your pooch better food will help in a bunch of different ways, including with tooth care.

Regular Exams

Routine dental examinations, including x-rays and cleanings, can help prevent the build-up of plaques and gum disease and detect abscesses under the gums, lesions on bone, and other oral issues. They can even detect other forms of illness, including oral tumors before they get large enough to become a visible problem.

You often don't need a full anesthetic dental visit every six months. Your vet will check for signs of tooth and mouth problems in a casual examination when you bring your dog in, and only if they have signs of issues will a dental trip be recommended. At that point, you can plan for a trip where anesthetic may be likely, a deeper clean is required, and even dental care like fillings can be performed.

How to Help Keep Your Dog's Mouth Healthy at Home

Keeping your pooch's mouth healthy at home will have long-term repercussions. They'll be able to live without mouth pain, they'll have teeth that can keep them happy and healthy for longer, and you won't have to worry about softer foods for a while.

Older dogs can still succumb to the inevitable – that is, teeth will decay over time, and there's not much we can do about it – but the longer you can hold it off, the better.

So, what can you do to help keep your dog's mouth healthy at home?

Get in the habit of brushing their teeth.

Sadly, while we all know that caring for teeth is important, less than 1% of dog parents actually brush their pup's teeth. As a result, nearly 80% of dogs over three years old have full-blown periodontal disease, and will have long-term repercussions because of it.

Some dogs are placid and happy to let you mess around in their mouth. Most, though, aren't, so you're going to need to train them to tolerate it.

First, buy a doggy toothbrush and doggy toothpaste. Toothbrushes are designed with soft bristles, angled handles, and even multiple heads to make it easier to get all the angles of all the teeth fast and effectively.

Doggy toothpaste is especially important. One of the most common additives in human toothpaste is xylitol, which helps to restore tooth enamel. Unfortunately, it's also very toxic to dogs. Doggy toothpaste also comes in flavors they'll enjoy, like chicken, peanut butter, or beef.

The actual act of training is slow and works best if you start when they're young.

• Start by just getting them to hold still while you inspect their mouth.
• Once you can do that, start introducing the toothbrush. Don't brush yet; just touch parts of their mouth to get them used to the feeling until they can tolerate it.
• Introduce the toothpaste. You might want to put a little on a finger or on the toothbrush and let them sniff and lick it so they know it's not something to be scared of.
• Start brushing teeth. It's easiest to hold their lip up and brush their front teeth to start, so they get used to the sensation.
• Over time, add more teeth until you can brush all of their teeth inside and out.

Throughout this whole process, praise them and pet them for tolerating it without complaint. If they start to reject it, dial back, and don't force it. You'll be able to help them get used to it over time.

The American Kennel Club goes into this process in greater detail if you want a bit more elaboration.

Buy dental-friendly dog food.

Something I already mentioned above is that dog foods can be pretty bad for your dog, especially if they're full of carbohydrates and fillers that fuel the bad bacteria.

Dental dog foods aren't as good as tooth brushing, but they can help cut down on the food that fuels the bacteria that cause tooth decay.

Unfortunately, they tend to be more expensive and harder to find than normal dog foods, and they aren't always compatible with allergy foods, so you may not be able to use them over an allergy-friendly food.

There are also prescription dog foods for more extreme or more sensitive cases. Some dogs need carefully balanced food, and some are just a lot more susceptible to tooth decay than others. In those cases, getting a prescription might help with insurance covering costs and other benefits, as well as making some foods available to you that otherwise wouldn't be available.

Invest in doggy dental chews.

Dental chews are basically healthy treats for dogs. They're textured and ridged, stuff enough to scrape plaque off of teeth, but not so hard that they can cause damage to teeth or gums as your dog chews on them.

Sometimes, they also include ingredients that help fight mouth bacteria and ward off tooth decay.

Dental chews aren't a replacement for tooth brushing, but they're a good supplement, and if your dog really doesn't want to have anything to do with a toothbrush, they can be better than nothing.

Give your dog a chew toy.

Chew toys aren't just for enrichment and entertainment; they're also a way your dog can chew on something that not only doesn't contribute to plaque formation but helps get rid of it.

Chew toys of various sorts, including plastic, rubber, nylon, and even rawhide, can help keep your pooch entertained and bust some of the plaque that builds up over time. Rotate through different kinds of chew toys so they always have something fun and new to play with.

Consider powders and sprays.

For dogs that are extremely averse to any kind of dental hygiene, you can try powders and sprays.

Sprays are spritzes you can either spray directly into your dog's mouth or onto something like a chew toy so that when they lick and chew on the toy, it gets into their mouth and on their teeth.

It's made of a bunch of different ingredients, but the most important are minor antibacterials that will kill mouth bacteria. The end result is less plaque build-up, better breath, and less tooth decay.

Powders, meanwhile, are similar, except they work in a different way. They're probiotics, which means they're made up of good, healthy bacteria.

You sprinkle some on your dog's food, and when they eat, the good bacteria eat some of the leftover bits of food that the bad bacteria normally would, out-competing the bad bacteria and preventing tooth decay.

Again, they aren't as effective as tooth brushing, but it's a good supplement, especially if you can't find or can't afford dental-friendly food.

There are also powders and drops that can be added to your dog's water dish to do the same thing. They're tasteless and odorless, but they help kill bad bacteria and keep your dog's mouth clean.

If all else fails, try dental wipes.

Dental wipes are basically cloths soaked in a dental-cleaning liquid. Instead of using a large and irritating toothbrush, you can wrap one around your finger and just use that to "brush" your dog's teeth.

They aren't as good as a brush at getting into all the little divots and nooks in a dog's mouth, but they're often more tolerable than a brush and can help you give your dog a brushing without using a brush or toothpaste.

Dog Dental Hygiene FAQ

Let's round things out with some common questions.

How often should a dog visit a doggy dentist?

Just like people, our pupper pals need to have dental exams and cleanings on a regular basis. Often, that should be about once every six months, just like it is for people. It can be part of a general vet check-up, or as a special doggy dental visit.

It's important to remember that a casual dental inspection can't catch everything and that a full, in-depth cleaning and examination requires general anesthesia.

Your vet will need to check for places where teeth touch a surface they shouldn't, where guns are inflamed or prone to bleeding, and where cavities may have formed under the gumline. They will also check the soft tissues and palate, tonsils, tongue, lips, and more.

What happens if your dog gets a cavity?

Cavities are actually a lot less common in dogs than in people. Usually, dogs end up with gum disease that, if it progresses, can damage the jawbone and the gums. Cavities are less common because of dog diets and how much more exposed their teeth tend to be.

There's a common misconception that dogs don't get dental care the way we do. In fact, if your dog has a cavity, they can get a filling just like we do; they can even get a full root canal and crown if necessary.

The downside is that it's usually quite expensive, so many people opt for having the tooth pulled instead. This can be fine for a single tooth, but over time, if your dog loses too many teeth, it can hinder their quality of life.

What dogs are most susceptible to tooth decay?

In broad strokes, the smaller a dog is, the more likely they are to have issues with tooth decay. There are two reasons for this. The first is that smaller breeds are just genetically a lot more likely to have issues than larger dogs.

The second is that their teeth are physically a lot smaller, so even a tiny spot of decay can cause more problems, whereas a larger dog has more leeway before it causes issues.

Are no-anesthetic dental visits viable?

Unfortunately, no. Some doggy dental clinics offer no-anesthetic cleanings and procedures, but these tend to be pretty traumatizing for our poor pup pals and can make it harder for you to take care of their teeth later. It's better to opt for the anesthetic when it's necessary.

Do you have any questions about maintaining your dog's dental hygiene, or was there anything I mentioned in this article that you'd like additional clarification on? If so, I'm always more than happy to help, so be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as I can!

Try as we might, it's so often difficult to fully subdue the unpleasant odors that come with the litterbox. Fortunately, there are a few things you can try that you may not have thought of before, and might help do the job.

#1: Change the Litter

First up is the simplest possible solution: just go change the litter! When a litter box smells bad, it's a good indication that it's time to change it. Usually, you should be changing the litter in your cat's litter box at least twice a week. If you have more than one cat and they often use the same box, you'll need to change it even more often. (Of course, if you have more than one cat, you should have more than one litter box, too.)

Some litters, especially the clumping style, are meant to be scoopable to avoid litter waste. Instead of dumping out the whole box, you scoop the clumped-up nastiness, discard it, and then change the full thing every few weeks. If you use this kind of litter and your box still smells, it's definitely time to clean it out. In fact, you probably want to fully wash and sanitize the box as well as change the litter. It's a dirty job, but someone has to do it!

#2: Change the Litter

No, you're not experiencing déjà vu; this is the same headline. But, this time, I mean change the type of litter you're using. You might go from clumping to crystals, or from a natural sawdust or newspaper-style litter to clay litter, or something else. Check out my post, Clumps or Crystals: Which Cat Litter Type Works Best, for more information on the different kinds of litter.

There are generally two reasons why your litter might have poor odor control. One is that some kinds of litter just aren't meant for that. People use these kinds of litter more for the safety, ethics, or environmental concerns and to deal with the odor. But, if you can't handle the odor, you might need to switch to a litter with better odor control.

The other is if the litter is unpleasant for your fur baby in some way, and they're actually going outside or at the edge of the litter box. The odor might be coming from the outside or underneath the litter box, not inside it, but it can be hard to tell.

Either way, changing the type of litter you use might be a good solution.

#3: Put the Litter Box in an Enclosure

Another option is to put your litter box in some kind of enclosure. Litter boxes with lids, flaps, or even a simple curtain can serve two purposes. First, they help isolate the litter box from the rest of your house so the odors don't spread. Second, they help keep the litter box out of sight. Some people find it intensely unpleasant to see a litter box, so this can help.

This is another topic I've written about. Check out 5 Clever Ideas to Hide Your Cat's Litter Box in an Enclosure for more information.

Keep in mind that some cats really don't like having their litter box hidden in an enclosed space. They're comfortable in a small space, but they aren't comfortable with the enclosed smells, so this can increase the chance of litter issues if you don't keep it clean.

#4: Put the Litter Box in a Better Location

If you have the option, you might want to try putting the litter box in a different location. I know this isn't always possible if you live in a small apartment or small home, but if you have the space, finding a better place for it is a good option.

What is the right location? Generally, you want a well-ventilated location that is away from the living and dining spaces in your home. This way you aren't dealing with odors where you spend your time or where you cook and eat. Ventilation is especially important because it helps keep those odors from building up and concentrating.

If you have the opportunity, keeping a window cracked nearby or even installing a vent fan similar to a bathroom fan can help a lot.

#5: Change Your Cat's Diet

We are what we eat. Cat poo and cat pee both reflect what your fur baby is eating, and if their diet doesn't wholly agree with them, it can have an impact on the odors they leave behind.

Consider talking to your vet about dietary changes, especially if your cat has any health issues that could be affected by a change in diet.

#6: Change the Litter Box Itself

There are two reasons you want to change your litter box.

The first is that litter boxes wear down over time. When you scrub them clean, whatever you use to scrub will abrade the surface. Even if you're just hosing it down and you're not scrubbing it, your cat will dig and scratch to bury their waste, and their little claws can leave scratches on the surface of the box. Many litters can be very mildly abrasive, too, and can damage a box over time.

All of the little scratches and grooves in the box are places where bacteria can grow, and those bacteria cause the worst odors a litter box can produce. So, if your box doesn't seem to get clean and odor-free when you clean it, it might be time for a new one. Usually, the best practice is to get a new box every year.

The second reason is if there's an issue and your cat isn't behaving right in the box. For example, if they splash when they go and pee gets on the edges or over the side of the box, you might want a higher-sided box or a box with a lid. If your cat is larger, you might need a box with more surface area so they have room. Getting a box they find comfortable helps eliminate litter issues and keep odors down.

#7: Consider Toilet Training

Did you know that you can train a cat to use the toilet? It's true! There are "litter boxes" that sit over the toilet seat, so when your cat goes to do their business, it just falls through into the toilet and can be flushed easily.

Just make sure you never flush litter. Since litter is made to absorb liquid, it can very quickly clog up your pipes and cause all kinds of expensive plumbing problems.

This does only work if you have a cat that can take to the training, if you don't mind having to move the contraption when you need to go, and if you aren't bothered by seeing a full toilet when you walk in. It's definitely not a solution for everyone, but it's an option you can try.

#8: Try Outdoor Training

Another training-based option is to train your cat to go outside like a dog. You'll need to supervise them and make sure you have a place for them to go, but they can be trained to think of going outside as going to the litter box.

Just make sure this doesn't transition into just letting your cat go outside unsupervised. Outdoor cats suffer a lot in our world and are at risk from everything from cars to predators to diseases. It's just not healthy for them or for our environment.

#9: Check for Medical Issues

Obviously, no one wants to think that their fur baby is having a hard time. One of the difficult realities of being a cat parent is that cats really don't like to admit when they're feeling bad. They might be a little more standoffish, or they might go and hide themselves away, but it's only in times of real distress that they'll show signs.

That doesn't mean that you can't figure it out, though. You know what they do when they're happy and healthy, so if you notice behavioral changes, it might indicate that they're sick or in pain.

More importantly, litter box behavior and their leavings can be another sign. Extreme odor, diarrhea, and other problems – including missing the litter box entirely – can be signs of an illness or infection. It very well could be worth talking to your vet!

I don't have space here to go over everything, but fortunately, I wrote a whole guide for you to read. Cat Poop Issues: What is Normal, Constipation, Diarrhea, and More. Check it out, and let me know if you have any questions!

Cat Litter Odor Control FAQs

Now, let's answer any of the lingering questions you might have.

Why does cat litter smell so bad?

It's a bunch of different things. First, cat pee is just really intense, and ammonia – one of the primary byproducts of their diet – smells really, really strong and really, really bad to humans. It's just something we're very sensitive to because it's naturally dangerous to us. Think of it as a biological warning to stay away.

Especially foul smells might mean your cat needs a different diet, or you need a different litter, or even that you just need to change the litter more often.

How often should you clean your litter box?

As often as it needs it! If the box smells, clean it.

Depending on the kind of litter you use, you may need to scoop it daily and change it weekly, or scoop it every 2-3 days and change it every 2-3 weeks. Other litters need to be entirely replaced every day or two.

Cleaning the whole box itself should also be done at LEAST monthly, if not weekly. The longer you wait, the worse it will be when you need to clean it, and trust me, you want to make that job easier on yourself.

Should you use a deodorizer?

There are a lot of different products like Febreze and other odor-control sprays and chemicals that can help, but at a cost. The problem is, while they cover up litter box odors for you, the scent of the spray can be very strong and very irritating to your fur baby and might cause them to avoid the litter box. It's usually not worth it, in my experience.

Can baking soda help eliminate litter box odors?

Yes, but it's not necessarily as helpful as you think.

The best thing to do is put a small layer of baking soda in the bottom of the litter box before you fill it with litter. That way, anything that seeps down past the litter can be absorbed and deodorized by the baking soda. This needs to be replaced every time you replace your litter, and it might mean cleaning the box more often.

The other option is to leave an open box of baking soda near the litter box. This is a common technique, and it can work, but it's not necessarily as useful as you might hope. Plus, you risk a mess if your fur baby knocks it over, and if you're in a humid environment, it can absorb moisture from the air and stop working pretty quickly. Still, it might be worth a try.

So, what do you think? Have you tried any of the options above, and if so, how did they work for you? Do you have something to add that I forgot? Let me know in the comments! It's a problem we all have to deal with, after all, so the more we help each other out, the better off we'll all be.

I don't blame you! Packing away your fur baby and sending them on a plane without you is hugely stressful, and that's even before you read the horror stories.

The simplest alternative is to drive with your dog or dogs to your destination. It's easy to say that, though, and it can often be a lot harder in practice. It's one thing to drive for an hour or so to visit family across the state, but it's a whole other issue if you're trying to manage a cross-country trip. So, whether you're moving for a job or just going on a vacation and needing to bring your pups, how can you do it the right way?

How to Train a Dog to Enjoy the Car

The first and largest hurdle is training your fur baby to enjoy a car ride. Some dogs love it, but others don't, and the last thing you need is a dog with anxiety, nervous energy, or fear huddled in the back, whining for dozens of hours of driving.

The key, as it so often is with dogs, is proper training. Dogs that have anxiety or fear in a car are either very young puppies who aren't used to the noise, motion, and new experience, or are dogs that have been conditioned to find car rides unpleasant. A dog that only ever goes in a car when they're being abandoned at a shelter or taken for an invasive procedure at the vet is a dog that will definitely not enjoy the car.

If your furry friend is fine with the car, you can skip this part entirely.

Step 1: Figure out how averse your pooch is to the car.

The first thing you need to do is determine how averse your dog is to the car in general. If they're fine with short rides but get anxious on longer rides, you have a much easier job ahead of you than if they won't even get near the car in the first place.

Step 2: Work on accommodation.

Your goal, no matter how averse they are to the car, is to work on getting them more comfortable with it. As with most dog training, this just involves exposure and reward. Bring them to the point where they're comfortable, and then push them slightly further and reward them when they sit there. That might mean bringing them to sit next to the car, or sitting in the back seat when it's stationary, or taking them on a short trip around the block or to the local dog park.

Step 3: Extending the trip.

Depending on how long your trip is going to be, you may need to train your dog to be able to lie down and even sleep in the car for a longer journey. It's already stressful to stay on a highway for hours, but if your dog is anxious, fearful, or crying the whole way, it's going to be even worse. It also definitely helps if you can have someone along for the ride who can hang out and comfort your pooch, too.

Training this will generally involve going on longer and longer car rides. Even if all you're doing is driving circles around the city, there's no real way to acclimate a dog to a long ride other than simply taking them on a long ride.

Preventing Motion Sickness in Dogs

One of the biggest risks of a long car ride with a dog is motion sickness. This tends to impact puppies more often than adult dogs, but some dogs just don't have a good time in a car simply because of the motion, making them nauseous and upset. The same thing can happen to people, after all, so it's not surprising that it can happen to dogs.

If your fur baby gets motion sickness – especially if they vomit because of it – you'll need to do what you can to prevent it and prepare for the issues that occur if they do.

• Keep the temperature in the car on the cooler side. While you might end up a little chilly, it's easier for you to wear warmer clothing than it is for your dog to suppress their stomach.
• Make sure there's some air circulation. Depending on the kind of driving, you may be able to open a window, or you might need to turn the car HVAC on higher and aim it towards the back.
• Limit food and water before the trip if you can. For longer trips, you can't really avoid feeding and hydrating your pooch, but for mid-length journeys, you can make sure they go before you go and can delay feeding until you've reached your destination.
• Take your dog on a walk and play with them for a while, at least 20 minutes before your trip, so they're a little tuckered out and are more likely to stay calm or even nap.

You can also talk to your vet about anti-nausea, anti-anxiety, or motion sickness medications for dogs. Medications like Maropitant, anti-anxiety medications like alprazolam and trazodone, and even CBD tinctures may be viable options, but talk to your vet about it first.

Preparing for the Trip

When it's time to actually go on your trip, you need to make sure you have everything you're going to need.

The exact list can vary depending on whether you're moving or just going on vacation, but here's a decent checklist to get you started. If you can think of anything I forgot, let me know in the comments!

Travel Food and Water

For longer trips, there's a pretty good chance you're going to be stopping at just about every rest stop along the way, either to give your fur baby some food and water or to let them stretch their legs, do their business, and relax a bit from that particular leg of the journey.

Speaking of doing their business, you'll also want bags to clean up after them (most rest stops ask that you do this but don't provide their own bags the way a dog park might), wipes to clean up if there's a mess, and possibly even puppy pads for the car if there's no convenient place to stop and there's an emergency.

Pre-Trip Vet Checkups

One important thing to do before you embark on your trip is to take your fur babies to the vet to make sure they're in good health. You can talk to the vet about anxiety and motion sickness, as well as pain, general illness, and other considerations. Your vet will probably have some advice that can help, as well.

If you're moving and this is the last time you'll see that vet, you may also want to make sure you get physical copies of important paperwork, health certificates, vaccination records, and similar records. All of this should be available electronically at whatever other vet you pick at your destination, but having hard copies can smooth the way to setting up at your new location. If you're not moving, having copies of important documents like vaccination records can be good in case an incident happens, and you need to prove good health.

If you've been putting it off, this is also a good time to make sure they're up to date on their vaccinations and have a microchip with accurate information on it. The last thing you want is to lose your pup at a rest stop or overnight stay and have outdated information on that chip!

Plan Your Journey

For shorter trips, you might not have to stop overnight somewhere with your pooch. For longer trips, you might need accommodations that allow pets. Depending on the kind of trip you're planning, you may need to call a hotel ahead of time, or you might need to make sure your Airbnb or VRBO or whatever kind of short-term rental you pick allows them. Unexpected fees, cancellations, or denials can throw a huge wrench into your plans, so make sure to prepare ahead of time.

You'll also want to make sure you have all of the relevant supplies you'll need. Things like:

• Collars and tags, with spares, just in case.
• A leash or harness for whenever you need to bring your fur babies to unfamiliar places.
• Paperwork, medications, and grooming items to keep them comfortable and happy.
• Toys to keep them occupied and distracted as necessary.
• Food and treats for longer trips and stops. A water bowl is also helpful.
• A bed they're familiar with so they have a place to curl up and sleep.

Your exact list of items will depend on the kind of trip you're taking and where you're going to be staying, so customize it as necessary.

Extra Tips for a Smooth Road Trip with Dogs

Now, let's cover a handful of additional tips that can make your road trip smoother when you have a dog – or several dogs – to bring with you.

Bring a doggy first aid kit. Your human first aid kit – which you should also have in your vehicle at all times – can cover some basics, but a dog-focused kit can make sure you're prepared for anything. These kinds of kits can be found online for as little as $30, so it's easy to pick one up and keep it with you.

Consider a doggy car seat. These are raised, secure, and comfortable platforms your pooch can use to watch out the window without getting in the way, risking hitting buttons with their paws, or otherwise being a bother. They're also more comfortable than a normal car seat or the floor of the vehicle. If you buy these ahead of time, you can also make sure they smell like home and are more comforting for your fur babies.

Make sure to plan your route. The unexpected can always happen, from road delays and construction to accidents, so make sure you know where the rest stops are along your route and have some idea of where you can pull off the highway to a park or even just a fast-food place to get a break if an emergency happens. Similarly, make sure you know about pet-friendly lodging along the way.

Don't forget to leave time at these pit stops. You might only need a couple of minutes to hit a restroom and have a snack, but your fur baby will probably take a good deal longer to get comfortable enough to do their business. Make sure you aren't on a tight schedule that forces you to hurry this along.

Dogs in Cars FAQ

To wrap up, let's answer some of the most common questions about traveling with a dog or dogs, especially long distances.

Do dogs dislike car rides?

That depends a lot on the dog. Some dogs are perfectly fine or even excited to go on car rides, even longer trips. Others are initially excited but get tired or bored being cooped up in a vehicle for more than an hour. Others are fine for short trips but get motion-sick on longer trips. It really comes down to the individual.

How often should you stop for a break with a dog?

Generally, the average is every couple of hours, which is coincidentally often the distance between rest stops across America's highway system, though this does tend to vary regionally. If you have puppies or older dogs who may have incontinence or other issues, you'll need to stop more frequently.

Is it better to drive or to fly with a dog?

This depends on a lot of factors. Flying is a lot faster for long distances, but it can be more expensive. And if your fur baby is a larger breed, they'll need to fly through a pet cargo service and can't fly with you on a plane. Most dogs handle car rides a lot better than plane rides, though. In the end, it's up to you and what works best for your needs.

So, did I miss any important questions you may have about traveling in a car with your dog? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible with an answer!

At the same time, they're often something of a weight around your neck. How many times are plans canceled or rescheduled because of vet trips or unexpected canine injuries? How often do you have to adjust your choice of lodging or method of travel to bring your dog along? It's a fact of life that not everywhere allows dogs (other than service animals), so they can be a limiting factor as well as a joy.

So, if you need to travel long distances, and the only sensible way to do it is to fly, can you bring your dog? If so, how do you do it, and what do you need to keep in mind? Let's talk about flying with dogs and everything you need to know about it.

If you're looking to fly with a pet but you have a cat rather than a dog, I have a guide for that as well, which you can read here.

Can and Should You Fly with Your Dog?

First, let's answer two of the more obvious questions: can you fly with your dog, and more importantly, should you?

Can you fly with your dog?

The answer to whether or not you can fly with a dog is simple: probably. Maybe.

Different airlines have different pet policies, but most of them are going to be similar. They put limits on the size and weight of an animal that can be carried on the plane with you; otherwise, they may be stuck in a kennel and put in the cargo hold.

More importantly, these cargo hold spaces are broadly not available for most pet parents. You'll usually see a disclaimer somewhere on the airline websites that says the cargo spaces are only available for the pets of U.S. Military or State Department Foreign Service personnel. We regular people can't bring our pets in the cargo hold.

So, there is functionally a size and weight limit for the dogs you can bring with you on a flight. Lap dogs, terriers and chihuahuas and other small breeds, are fine. Larger dogs aren't going to fit in a kennel under a seat.

Note that certified service dogs are allowed on planes and don't need to be restrained to a kennel. This does require actual service dog training, though; the "emotional support animal" loophole has been closed due to abuse.

So, whether or not you can fly with a dog generally depends on whether your dog is small enough for the flight. Now, for the related question: should you fly with a dog?

Should you fly with your dog?

This is a harder question to answer.

Flying is a hassle. Flights can be canceled, there are delays, there are stresses, and planes are a notorious haven for illnesses. They're stressful and unpleasant for most people. So, how do you think your dog is going to feel, being restrained in a relatively small kennel and trapped under a seat for the duration of a flight? You can't pull them out (except maybe to take them to the bathroom mid-flight), so they're in an even more cramped position than you are.

The truth is, if you can avoid flying with a dog, it's usually better to do so. Yes, driving across the country is a much, much longer (and frequently more expensive) journey, but there's beauty and adventure to be found along the way. More importantly, it's a lot safer and more flexible for you and your pooch.

How Much Does Flying with a Dog Cost?

Each airline will have its own pet policies, so make sure you double-check with your choice of airline well in advance.

Also, make 100% certain that you've purchased your pet ticket ahead of time and confirmed availability. There's pretty much zero chance that you can show up with a dog in place of your carry-on and still be let on the plane.

Most airlines have a few limitations on pets on flights. The size is the biggest one, since a carrier needs to fit under a seat, which is a very limited amount of space. They also tend to limit how many pets can be on any given flight. Age limits are also in play, and pets will generally need to be at least two months old to fly. This is primarily for the health of the animals, but also for the comfort of other passengers.

The actual cost varies, but is likely in the $125-$150 range. Southwest is $125 each way for a flight, United is $150 plus an additional $125 for any layover over four hours long, and American is $150 per carrier. This is pretty typical of the major airlines.

Finally, you're often restricted to just the continental USA. Only certain airlines will allow pets on international flights, and certain countries will have very restrictive laws about importing pets, so keep it in mind.

What Can You Do to Make Flying with a Dog Easier?

Flying is going to be stressful and irritating in the best circumstances, and trying to fly with a dog, especially long distance, is going to be even worse. I'm not saying this to scare you; I just want you to have realistic expectations. Prepare for the worst, and if everything works out, you'll have a better-than-expected experience.

One of the most important things you need to do is crate-train your pupper. Crate training should be started early, and you want your furry baby to be comfortable staying in their crate for a long period of time. If they get antsy, nervous, or risk an accident when they're stuck, you're going to have a miserable time. Just imagine having to sit on a plane for hours while your poor baby is crying at your feet, and you can't do anything to help.

Similarly, you want to make sure they're potty trained. If your fur baby is going to be stuck on this plane for an extended period, you want to avoid any accidents that can make the flight unpleasant for everyone. Make sure you have puppy pads (and backup pads), as well as wipes and other items to clean up if an accident does happen, as well.

It can often be a good idea to limit food (but not water) in the morning before a flight. That way, your fur baby doesn't have anything in their system that will need to come out. You don't want to starve them, of course, and they still need to be hydrated, but solid food should be limited.

Make sure they go before you put them in the carrier for the flight, as well. Some airports will have a dedicated space for dogs to do their business; others will just require you to make do with the usual human facilities. This is extremely regional and depends on the airport, so just do the best you can.

It's also a good idea to bring your dog to the vet for a thorough check-up before you plan to fly. You may need to discuss possible health conditions and how a flight might affect them, or you might need an updated list of vaccinations and medications. If you're flying to certain destinations or internationally, you may also need an updated health certificate based on the destination's regulations.

What About Dog Airlines?

There's another option we haven't mentioned yet, which is dog-focused airlines like Bark Air and K9 Jets. These are dedicated charter airlines made for pet parents who want to fly with a dog that otherwise won't be able to fly in the cabin because of their size and who might have anxiety flying in a cargo hold. They're also for people who want to fly to destinations that they normally can't, like across the ocean (Bark Air, for example, offers flights to London and Paris, and K9 offers a variety of international destinations).

These are luxury travel options that allow your dog to roam the cabin, have a wide range of services to keep your dogs happy and healthy while flying, and have vets on every flight to make sure nothing can go wrong. So, what's the problem?

The biggest issue with these services is the price. As private, charter flights, these start in the $6,000 per seat range. They're also quite limited in capacity and destinations. If you want to fly across the sea, or from New York to California, you can probably do it; otherwise, it's going to take more expense and effort to find an option that works for you.

Flying with a Dog FAQ

Let's run down some of the fast-answer questions you may have about flying with a dog.

Should you sedate your dog for the flight?

Generally, no. If your dog is a nervous pooch who has trouble with new experiences and will be frightened, risk an accident, or constantly make noise for the whole flight, you might want to reconsider flying. Most airlines have policies that reflect the American Veterinary Medical Association's advice, which is not to sedate pets for a flight.

Because of things like changing air pressure, the stress of a flight, and the lack of available veterinary care, sedation poses very serious risks to health, and if an emergency happens mid-flight, there's very little you can do about it. Leave the sedation at home!

Are there breed restrictions for flying with a dog?

Yes.

The two main restrictions are based on size and facial structure. Size is simple; if your dog can't fit comfortably in a carrier under a seat, they can't fly with you. Facial structure is a little different. Many airlines prohibit even small dogs if they're a snub-nosed breed like a Boston terrier, a pug, or a bulldog. This is because the changes in air pressure and air quality on a plane can make it more difficult for these pets to breathe, and again, there are no emergency pet facilities on a plane to address a problem if one arises mid-flight.

Do any airlines offer cargo shipping for a dog?

Yes. Several airlines, like Alaska and American, offer services such as PetEmbark. These services are essentially like putting your dog in the mail; they'll be loaded onto a plane that is specially-designed to fly animals, has a trained vet along for the ride, and allows larger dogs.

The drawback here is that only certain routes, certain destinations, and certain flights allow this, and the chances are you won't be on the same flight. You will likely either need a friend at home to check them in after you've already flown to your destination, or a friend at your destination to receive them while you fly in yourself. It's difficult to coordinate, but sometimes, it's the only viable option.

Are there other non-flight options available?

If you don't want to drive and you don't want to fly, there may be some additional options. For example, some people will take a cruise that allows dogs to travel from one place to the next. This obviously only works if you're traveling between destinations where a cruise will stop, but if so, it can be a surprisingly viable option and fun to boot.

Alternatively, there are pet taxi services that will drive your dog, possibly with hand-offs for different legs of the journey. These can be effective but difficult to organize, so your mileage may vary. Still, they can work better than having to do a lengthy cross-country drive yourself!

Have you ever had to fly with a pooch? Did you have a surprisingly good – or distressingly bad – experience? Whichever one it was, let me know your story in the comments! You can help others avoid the worst options or point out something we didn't think of along the way. I look forward to hearing your story!

Sometimes, though, you aren't able to drive where you're going. Maybe it's far enough away that the only reasonable way to travel is by plane. Maybe you're crossing an ocean or flying to an island. Whatever the case may be, you need to hop on a plane, and to bring your furry feline friend with you, you need to bring them on the plane as well.

How do you fly with a cat, what do you need to know, and what should you bring? Let's talk about it!

Can You Fly with a Cat?

Let's start with the beginning: can you even fly with a cat?

The answer depends on the airline. Some airlines allow pets, while others do not. Some also place more restrictions on them than others. Here are a few of the rules from the most common airlines.

Southwest Airlines Pet Policies

Dogs and cats need to be at least 8 weeks old to travel, and they must be vaccinated. Small animals like cats also need to be kept in an appropriate pet carrier as a carry-on. The pet fare is $125 each way, per carrier, for mainland USA flights, though this can be subject to change. Each ticketed passenger is allowed one pet carrier, and each pet carrier can have at most two of the same species of cat or dog.

United Airlines Pet Policies

Pets can't be checked as cargo (which sounds crazy, but United used to have a pet cargo program that they have since discontinued outside of active-duty military members), and you can bring up to two pets per person; however, if you're bringing two pets, you need two tickets. Pet carriers need to be small enough to fit under the seat in front of you. Pet fare is $150 for each way and an additional $125 for each 4+ hour layover.

American Airlines Pet Policies

Pets can be transported as carry-on or as cargo through their cargo pet service, which is restricted to active-duty military. Carry-on is limited to cats and small dogs, with age, size, and destination requirements. Pet fares are $150 per pet carrier.

Most other airlines are similar. Cats need to be old enough to travel, vaccinated, and in a cat carrier that can fit under the seats. A cat carrier isn't taking the place of your carry-on (you still have space in the overhead bin), but if you have more than one cat to bring, you may need more than one ticket. Pet fares are around $125-150 for most airlines as well.

What to Know About Flying with Cats

There are a few key things to know about trying to fly with a cat.

The first and most important is that there are strict limitations on how many animals can be on any given flight. The airlines set these limits, and sometimes, they can fill up very quickly. For example, many flights only allow one pet carrier in a first-class cabin and up to five in a business-class cabin.

Even though there's technically plenty of space, they don't want to deal with too many animals on a flight, especially if those animals get irate at smelling, seeing, and hearing each other. It can cause a lot of problems and make a flight even more miserable than it already is for many people (and kitties).

Another thing to know is that the rules that allowed emotional service animals have been reversed. The loophole that let an emotional service animal fly was widely abused – and you probably saw stories about people bringing all kinds of animals, from fish to alligators to chickens, causing all kinds of problems – so the Department of Transportation removed that loophole.

Always make sure to triple-check with your airline that you have purchased fare for your kitty well in advance, and make sure you're aware of the size and space restrictions on the carrier you're bringing them in.

Do Cats Hate Flying?

Some do, and some don't. Just like with long car rides, some cats are adventurous and don't mind purring the time away while they doze in their carrier. Others are very sensitive to the noises, the people, the smells, the pressure changes, the vibrations, and everything else involved in plane travel and are going to be miserable the whole time.

Before flying with a cat, see if you can take them on a longer car ride to see how they feel about being cooped up for a while. Plane rides are generally shorter than road trips, but they can still prove irritating to many felines.

In particular, watch for the signs of kitty anxiety. If your fur baby is drooling, whining, excessively grooming themselves, or otherwise showing signs of stress, a flight might not be the best idea.

Of course, if you have to get from point A to point B, and you have to bring your kitty with you, it's probably better to take them on a miserable two-hour flight than an equally miserable ten-hour drive, right?

Tips for Making a Flight with a Cat Easier

What can you do to make your flight easier when you're bringing your fuzzy feline along?

Be very careful with sedation. When you're stuck on an airplane, if something goes wrong, you don't have any help. If your cat has bad anxiety, your vet can prescribe a mild sedative, but even then, be cautious about how you use it.

Know local laws and regulations. This is especially relevant for international flights. For example, the UK, by law, doesn't allow animals in the cabin either going to or coming from the country. Meanwhile, many US carriers don't check animals into their cargo anymore because of the risks and hassle involved.

Be prepared for security. United States airline security is largely theater, but that doesn't mean they can't make your life miserable if they want to. It's likely that you will need to extricate your fur baby from their carrier for the X-ray process and put them back in when it's done, which means you need to prepare for that. Make sure you have a good harness and that your fur baby is trained for carriers; otherwise, you're going to have a huge hassle on your hands.

Remember, too, that you generally can't use fast-track lines, online check-in, and other services when you have a pet with you. You'll need to go the long way around.

Consider using a soft carrier. Many airlines allow either a hard-shelled or a soft-shelled carrier as long as it fits under the seat in front of you. Soft-shelled carriers are more flexible and give your fur baby more room to maneuver and get comfortable, so they are often the better option.

Make the carrier a pleasant place to be. Since your fur baby is going to be spending a significant amount of time in the carrier on the flight, you want ways for them to be distracted. Something that smells like you and like home as padding, a toy to help distract them (preferably without noises that can disrupt other passengers), and other sources of comfort can help a lot.

Don't feed your cat before the flight. The absolute last thing anyone on a flight wants to deal with is the scent of a cat doing their business, whether out of fear, out of anxiety, or just out of natural digestion. If it happens, it happens, but you can minimize the chances by not feeding your furry friend before the flight and making sure they use their litter box before you board. Ideally, you can find an out-of-the-way corner of the airport and let your cat do their business in a portable, disposable litter box to get as close to the time of flight as possible.

Giving your cat some water is still important, though. Dehydration is much worse than a little hunger.

Pack your Cat Flight Essentials

Being prepared for anything is the key to a successful flight.

Here are some of the things you should have packed away.

• Cat treats. While you don't want to feed your fur baby on the flight, giving them the occasional treat can help keep them calm.
• A harness and leash, to make sure that your fur baby is secure and can't escape if you have to remove them from their carrier at any point.
• Spare clips and connectors. The last thing you want is for a broken zipper, a stuck carabiner, or another broken clasp to cause disruptions.
• Puppy pads to line the bottom of the carrier, in case your fur baby loses control of their bowels while they're anxious or scared in transit or if they vomit out of anxiety.
• Wipes and other supplies in case your cat does their business and you need to haul the carrier to the in-flight bathroom to clean up.
• A portable litter box. Especially for flights that last more than a couple of hours, it can be a good idea to bring a portable litter box with you so you can bring your cat to the bathroom, set it up, let them go, and ensure they're more comfortable for the remainder of the flight.

Finally, don't forget all of the relevant paperwork to prove things like ownership, recent vaccination status, and proof that you paid your pet fare in advance.

Flying with Cats FAQs

Now, let's wrap up by answering some of the more common questions we receive.

What is the most cat-friendly airline?

This can depend on where you're flying, but for domestic flights, the top three are generally Alaska Airlines, Frontier Airlines, and Delta Air Lines. United and JetBlue have the worst ratings, largely based on limitations and pricing.

Are service animals allowed on flights outside of a carrier?

Yes.

Can cats be considered service animals?

No. A lot of people were abusing the "emotional support animal" designation, which could be purchased for a completely untrained animal with no oversight. The Department of Transportation issued a new ruling that allows airlines to no longer recognize emotional support animals. Only true, trained service animals are allowed outside of carriers, and they need to be certified. Cats generally can't be service animals.

How much does it cost to bring a cat on a flight?

The basic fee ranges from about $100 to $175, depending on the airline you're taking, the destination, and other factors. Sometimes, if you're hopping on and off a plane for a layover, you may end up with a secondary fee for the second leg of the journey.

That's not the only cost, either. You will probably have to pay other fees, such as:

• The cost of a carrier that fits under an airplane seat, which may be smaller than your cat's normal carrier. Many brands make airline-focused carriers that can temporarily attach to a suitcase or be worn as a backpack for added comfort.
• The cost of any medications or other methods for soothing your fur baby while they're stressed from the flight and travel.
• A possible checked bag fee added on top of your normal fee if you don't have space for a full carry-on anymore, though this can vary from airline to airline.

Overall, you should anticipate somewhere in the ballpark of $400 for everything you'll need, plus more for multi-leg flights.

Are there alternatives to bringing your cat on a flight?

While you can bring your cat on a road trip instead, it's much longer and more stressful than a comparatively shorter flight. Unfortunately, sometimes there's just no viable option to flying with a feline. As stressful as it is and as miserable as it can be for you, your fur baby, other passengers, and everyone else, it's still the best option. At least it's over relatively quickly!

Do you have any other questions about traveling with your cat on a plane? If so, be sure to leave those in the comments section! I'd be more than happy to help you out however I can!

Effective crate training isn't all that difficult. In fact, I've written a whole guide to effective dog crate training, and it doesn't take very long at all! But there are always going to be issues along the way.

One common issue is puppies that can't seem to stop chewing on their beds. Crates are harsh and uncomfortable when they're empty, so it's good practice to put a bed in there for your pup to enjoy while they're sleeping. But some dogs just can't stop themselves from chewing their bed apart.

This isn't just a matter of annoyance when you find bits of fluff and foam on the floor in the morning and the expense of buying a new bed for them whenever they destroy the old one. It can also be a health hazard! Dog beds are meant to be safe for a dog to sleep on, but not for them to eat. Those bits of foam, fabric, fiber, and more can all cause problems if they swallow any of it,

Why Do Puppies Eat Their Beds?

When you get your puppy a new bed, they're probably going to be excited. They hop on and off of it, they roll on it, they curl up and doze, and yes, they probably give it a nibble or two. A lot of this is just expressing their excitement, but it can calm down once they're used to the bed.

Sometimes, though, that chewing never stops, and they just keep on biting, ripping, tearing, pulling, and generally destroying that fancy new bed. But why?

It's part of their nesting instinct.

First of all, it might be part of their overall nesting instinct. You might not think of dogs as having nests, but they actually do, though we don't usually call them nests. You've heard of a "wolf den" before, right? It's the same concept: a dog or a set of dogs working to make a specific place where they spend their time as comfortable as possible.

Dogs "nest" in a bunch of different ways. They dig at the ground to create small hollows where they can lay comfortably. They arrange padding and other materials to create a softer bed for themselves. They can even drag and wrap things like fabric around themselves, which is why some dogs will curl up in a blanket to nap.

With a new bed, your dog is probably trying to break it down into a more comfortable form for themselves. That might mean scratching at the bottom, chewing at the rim, or just pulling it apart to make it into a form they find cozier and more comfortable.

While all dogs can express a nesting instinct, it's strongest and most common with pregnant mother dogs, especially in the week or so before they're due. It's an important part of creating shelter and comfort for their pups.

It's part of marking their territory.

Another reason a dog might chew at their crate bed is as a way to mark their space. This can be especially common in dogs that spent some time as strays and in dogs that have spent a lot of time with other dogs and want to carve out a space of their own.

A huge part of how dogs identify territory is through scent. Moreover, dogs have scent glands in their paws, and they can identify the unique elements of their breath and other smells they produce. All of this means that when they're chewing, scratching, pawing, and otherwise damaging their bed, it's really more about infusing that bed with their scent.

This allows your dog to create a space fully their own. You might notice that the chewing behavior is worse with a brand new bed (which smells like a factory, like off-gassing foam, and other smells) or in the immediate hours and days after you wash it.

It's a nervous tic.

Another common reason why puppies chew at their beds is as part of separation anxiety. This is especially common if you notice that they only seem to chew up their beds when you're asleep or away from home at work, and they're stuck in their crate. It can also be related to night crying.

Puppies have a lot of energy, and they're forming a lot of attachments and bonds, especially when they're young. They want to spend time with you since you're their parent figure and packmate. When you're not around, they may be worried, scared, nervous, or anxious. With very little space to maneuver and very little to do, they might start expressing that nervousness by chewing on their bed.

In a way, it's kind of the puppy equivalent of human fidgeting. They have nervous energy and anxiety, and they find a behavior that soothes it.

Some dogs that have separation anxiety develop it due to a lack of socialization. Others have it because of a quality of their breed (especially small breeds), and still others are simply too young to feel secure on their own just yet.

This can also be caused through an excess of energy. We often describe this as having "nervous energy" but it can manifest in any dog that is cooped up too much and doesn't have an outlet for all of their energy.

Your poor pooch is teething.

Another common reason why your puppy is chewing on their bed is because they're chewing on everything. When your pup's teeth are coming in, it's going to be sore and painful, just like it is for human children. In order to help their teeth come in and alleviate some of that pain, they chew on anything they can wrap their lips around. During the day, that usually means chewing on toys, though they may also chew on pillows, table legs, sticks, stray toes, and whatever else they can find.

At night, in their crate, they don't have access to much else, so they chew on what's available: the bars of the crate, the bed, any toys you put in, and so on. Usually, this is a temporary behavior once their mouth stops aching, though.

Other reasons your dog might chew:

There are a handful of other reasons your dog might be chewing on their bed in their crate.

They might just be curious. Some dogs have an innate drive to "try it and see what happens" and that can manifest in the form of chewing on things. This tends to abate as they get older and know more about how the world works.

Another reason is hunger. A hungry dog might be attempting to forage around the space they can access, and if they're in their crate, that means in their bedding. This can be especially true if you ever give them treats in bed or if they bring food there, so their bed has lingering scents of food.

It can also be due to illness. A dog that is sick or in pain – even if it's just the equivalent of a puppy cold – might be seeking something to soothe themselves, and chewing can be an outlet, even if it's not a very effective one.

How Not to Stop a Dog from Chewing Their Bed Apart

Before getting into specific ways that you can address bed-chewing behavior, let's talk about the one thing you don't want to do: engage with them positively.

This is a tricky line to walk. You can't punish your dog for chewing on their bed because they won't associate the behaviors, so they won't learn. You need to address the behavior, but without giving them the kind of attention they might be seeking. They want to engage with you and have fun with you, and if they find that you're normally distracted (or not home) but you give them attention when they chew, well, they're going to chew more.

Basically, you just always need to be aware of how your interactions with your dog are going to be perceived and what behaviors you're reinforcing.

One other thing is that you don't want to take away their bed, at least not for long. If they're chewing on it when you're around, you can take it away, but if you're going to be putting them in their crate overnight, they need something comfortable. You don't want to make the crate an unpleasant place to be; otherwise, you damage crate training routines!

How to Stop a Dog from Chewing Their Bed

Now, let's talk about what you might be able to do to stop your pooch from chewing apart their brand-new bed. You have a couple of options.

Start with redirection training.

The first thing you want to do is start with redirection training. Redirection training is fairly simple. When you see your dog start to chew on their bed, scold them a little (just say "no!") and then hand them a more appropriate chew toy. When they chew on the toy instead of the bed, praise and reward them.

You can also do other minor forms of training. When you see them resting on their bed without chewing on it, praise them. When you see them chew on a chew toy rather than their bed, praise them. Simple reinforcement is all you really need.

Address other causes of chewing.

If your pooch is sore, sick, anxious, nervous, or scared, you can address these issues in various ways. Calming scents, CBD tinctures, and your own presence can help alleviate the stress of being alone. That's why I spent so much space on why your pup is chewing, so you can figure out the reason and address it directly.

Sometimes, too, all it takes is time. As your puppy gets older and calms down, they'll be less likely to chew their bedding into shreds.

Puppy Crate Bed Chewing FAQ

Now, let's answer some of the most common questions you might have about puppies who chew up their beds.

Why do dogs chew on their beds?

There are a bunch of different reasons why your pooch might be chewing at their bed.

Here are some of the most common reasons:

• It's part of their nesting instinct to create a safe and comfortable place to sleep.
• It's a scent-marking technique to help them firmly claim the space as their own.
• They have separation anxiety and are chewing as an outlet for their feelings.
• They're teething to relieve the pain of new teeth coming in.
• They're sick and are seeking some form of relief.
• They're hungry and are seeking something to eat in the middle of the night.

There are other possible reasons as well, but again, these are the most common.

What are some ways you can stop your dog from chewing their bed?

You have a few options here.

Some options include:

• Implementing redirection training to get them to chew a toy instead.
• Using a protective cover to make it unpleasant to chew.
• Making sure to tire out your dog and address anxiety issues.

Essentially, you want to figure out why they're chewing and get rid of those issues.

What should you avoid?

For the most part, you want to avoid anything that punishes your pup. Don't take away their bed for long periods of time or make their crate an uncomfortable place to be.

Don't attempt to punish them directly, either. Most forms of punishment don't work because the association doesn't exist, so it just adds stress and makes behavioral issues worse.

Should you try a chew-proof dog bed?

This one is up to you. Chew-proof dog beds advertise being extremely durable, so even if your pooch chews at them for hours, they won't rip them apart. They tend to be pretty expensive, though.

It's often better to address the behavior, however, because if they're prone to destructive chewing, it won't stop at the bed.

Have you ever had to stop your furry friend from chewing up their crate pad? If so, what did you do to stop it? Let me know in the comments section! I'd love to hear all your stories!

What you don't see is all of the other cats, the ones that scream and cry every second they're in a car, having the most miserable time of their lives. For a good reason, these videos don't make it to the big stage.

No one likes to make their cat suffer, but sometimes, there's just no way around a car trip. Whether it's a quick journey to the vet or a move across the state or country, your poor fur baby is going to be stressed and afraid, right? Or is there a way to train your cat to be more accepting of a car ride?

How to Train a Cat to Enjoy the Car

Some cats enjoy car rides and have a keen sense of adventure already. Most cats, though, need to be trained to enjoy the experience. Fortunately, this is both very possible and not terribly difficult, as long as you do it right. It takes a little while, though, so you need to be training your fur baby well in advance of any trip you need to take.

The first thing you want to do is lay the groundwork with a couple of useful forms of training that will make it easier for your cat to handle a road trip.

Leash and Harness Training for Cats

Start with leash and harness training. Leash and harness training is a critical part of keeping your fur baby safe outside. Cats don't really respond well to a traditional collar leash like a dog might, but a body harness works well, with the caveat that they need to be used to it. Cats that aren't used to something like a harness will think they're being pressed on and will usually just flop over, though some may struggle to escape.

Harness training is best done early, but you can get even an older adult cat used to it with enough time. Once they're comfortable with it, you can be a lot more confident when you need to keep them close while at a rest stop, in a hotel, or just wandering around your vehicle.

Carrier Training for Cats

Once leash training is down, work on carrier training.

Truthfully, many cat parents work on carrier training before harness training, and that's fine, too. It doesn't matter what order you do it in as long as it gets done.

• Start by getting a comfortable, strong, and reliable carrier. There are thousands of options out there, so you can find one that suits your preferences fairly easily.
• Leave the carrier out and open so they can get used to it. Don't try to force them into it; make sure it's a safe location for them.
• Start taking them on short trips with the carrier, such as around the block. It's important that their experiences aren't all terrible trips to the vet!

Once they're aware that the carrier can lead to somewhere fun and enjoyable – and usually has a treat at the end – they'll be a lot more comfortable with it. I know I'm glossing over a lot here, but I have a whole guide to carrier training you can read here.

Car Ride Training for Cats

While you're doing this, you should also do some basic car training. Generally, this starts as an add-on to carrier training, bringing them in their carrier around the block or on a short trip, always with a reward to help keep them happy.

You can gradually expand this to longer trips, trips to the vet, trips to visit friends, and more. The more positive experiences your cat has with the carrier and car, the better.

Travel Litter and Food Training for Cats

Finally, you should do some training for a mobile litter box and feeding mat. You may not need much training for this, or you may want to verify it works.

Basically, for longer trips, you need to have ways to feed your cat and ways for them to relieve themselves. There are travel bowls and travel litter boxes you can use effectively, but you need to have them in advance and get your fur baby used to using them; otherwise, they might not know what they're meant for. Fortunately, this is usually the easiest part of the training process.

Getting Your Trip Planning in Order

Before going on a long road trip with a cat, there are several things you should do to get your affairs in order.

First, bring your fur baby to the vet to make sure they're in good health. Trips, even with a well-trained cat, can be stressful and exacerbate health issues and illness. This can also help you plan how often you'll need to stop, especially if your fur baby has anxiety or an incontinence issue.

Second, ensure they're up to date on their vaccinations, and make sure they're microchipped with the most accurate information. Getting ID tags on a collar is a good idea too. If all goes well, your cat will be by your side for the entire trip. If things go poorly, though, and they get lost, you want as much chance as possible that they're found and you're contacted.

Third, know where you're going to be stopping a long the way, including both pit stops for potty breaks, and pet-friendly hotels to stay in overnight. Some pet-friendly hotels include certain La Quintas and Hilton hotels, but always call to ask ahead of time – the last thing you need is for your overnight stay to be cut off because of your fur baby, and you absolutely can't just leave them in the car overnight.

Fourth, gather all of the relevant items you'll need, including paperwork, medications, toys, grooming items, and so on. It can help to keep an eye on everything you use throughout a given week and add it to a checklist, as well as certain essentials like paperwork.

Extra Tips for a Smooth Road Trip

Now let's talk about a few added tips that can make your cat-based road trip experience a little better.

Consider purchasing puppy pads. These are absorbent pads that soak up and help deodorize urine. Lining your cat's carrier with these will help deal with any accidents your fur baby may have, especially if you can't train the fear out of them ahead of time. You'll still probably want something like a towel to separate your cat from the pads, in case they find it to be an unpleasant texture, but you can play around and experiment with these layouts.

You may also want to skip breakfast on the day of the trip. If your cat isn't fully used to a car ride, the motion they experience might give them motion sickness, and skipping breakfast helps reduce the chances of vomiting.

Don't open the windows when you're traveling at speed; instead, use your car's HVAC. Cats have very sensitive ears, and road noise is immense and very stressful for them. Similarly, never leave them alone in a car; heat can build up to lethal levels in a very short amount of time. Remember, cats are quite sensitive to changes in temperature.

If you have more than one cat, make sure you use more than one carrier. Even if your cats get along under normal circumstances, a longer road trip can make them frustrated and scared, and they may lash out at one another. The last thing you need to deal with on the highway is a catfight!

Finally, be VERY careful about allowing your cat to roam about the vehicle. While it's adorable to see them perched on a windowsill or lounging in the back window, it can be dangerous if they get up on the dashboard in front of you, try to give you face nuzzles while you're navigating, or crawl under your feet and disrupt the pedals. Plus, there's always the risk of accidents or other issues if they're loose, and those are miserable to deal with.

Cats in Cars FAQ

To wrap up, let's answer some of the most common questions about traveling with a cat, especially long distances.

Why Do Cats Dislike Car Rides?

There are a few reasons. Some cats don't like the sense of motion when they aren't in control of that motion; it's basically motion sickness for people, but in cats. Others don't like the noise of a car. Many times, though, it comes down to your cat not being used to the carrier, the car, or the ride.

Add to this the fact that many cats only experience car rides when an unpleasant vet trip is on the other end, and you can see why they wouldn't enjoy the experience! Fortunately, you can train all of this out of most cars.

Can Cats be Trained to Enjoy a Car Ride?

Certainly! You can do a surprising amount of training with cats as long as you take it slow, use plenty of treats as rewards along the way, and maintain consistency with your training.

As long as you aren't just hopping into an immediate huge road trip, you'll usually be better off than you might expect.

What Are the Four Kinds of Training Necessary for a Road Trip with a Cat?

To make sure a cat is trained to handle a road trip, especially a longer one, you need four kinds of training.

These are leash and harness training, carrier training, car ride training, and travel litter training. I go into greater detail with these above.

Are There Ways to Help Keep a Cat Calm on a Road Trip?

Of course! There are a few options, and you should talk to your vet before you try them out.

Some options include:

• A thundershirt. These are essentially just clothes you can use to swaddle your fur baby. Swaddling in a "purrito" is awkward for a longer trip, but a thundershirt allows a bit more mobility, so you can leave them in it for a little longer. You still want breaks to allow them to stretch and move, though!
• A calming collar. These use cat pheromones to help keep your cat in a calmer mental state. They don't always work, so make sure your cat is receptive to them.
• CBD oil. CBD is broadly used as an anti-anxiety medication, and while results can vary from cat to cat, it's something you might consider.
• Catnip. Some cats find catnip very calming; others go crazy for it. If your cat snoozes on the 'nip, it can be a great option.
• Medications for anxiety. There are a variety of mild sedatives and anti-anxiety medications your vet might prescribe if nothing else works. Again, talk to your vet about your options.

Which options work best will depend on your fur baby, so be sure to test your options ahead of time.

What Items Should You Pack for a Road Trip with a Cat?

There are a lot of items to consider.

Here's a checklist!

• A carrier your cat is comfortable in.
• Food and water.
• Food and water bowls.
• Treats to reward your cat for a job well done along the way.
• Litter, a litter box, and litter tools.
• Puppy pads and mats for cleanliness.
• A harness and leash.
• Cat toys to keep them occupied and distracted.
• A cat bed, especially one they've used, and is soaked with their scent.
• Anti-anxiety aids like CBD, medications, or catnip.
• A scratching box so they don't scratch your car's upholstery.
• Any medications they need.
• IDs, paperwork, vaccination records, and other records.

If you have something to add to this list – or a tip you've developed from your own long road trips with your fur baby – let me know in the comments below!

So, say you've decided to adopt a dog from your local shelter or even snagged one that someone abandoned or one that has been living feral in your neighborhood and was finally wrangled.

These are some of the most challenging dogs to socialize and train, but also some of the most rewarding, most loving, and most emotionally engaging relationships you can form with a pup. Taking a dog from a disadvantaged and difficult scenario, and bringing them to a state of love, contentment, and happiness, is so incredibly rewarding it's difficult to describe.

Among the many behavioral issues you'll need to work on with your new rescue is housebreaking, also known as housetraining.

Step 1: Assess Your Dog's Current Abilities

Different rescue dogs have different amounts of socialization and training, depending on where they came from. Some of them might be almost entirely housetrained already, and just need a reminder of their training. Others, especially feral dogs, may never have had that training at all.

So, your first step is to determine how much they can do. Do they know any commands? Do they naturally "hold it" when they're in the house? Do they mark their territory?

You should establish a few baseline pieces of data.

Data to keep track of with your pup

Consider writing down information like:

• How long your dog goes before they need to go.
• How often they have "accidents" when you're not around.
• If they can sleep through the night in their crate without incident.
• When and where accidents happen, if they happen.

You'll also want to perform a basic assessment in conjunction with a vet.

• Are they fixed? An intact pup is more likely to have issues and less training.
• Do they have any illnesses? Things like worms and infections can cause bowel issues.
• Are they on any medications that might have incontinence as a side effect?

All of this gives you a baseline you can use to know what's normal and what isn't for your new rescue pup.

Step 2: Monitor and Control Your Dog's Diet

The second major step is to make sure you're feeding your new pup a relatively bland and inoffensive diet.

I'm not saying you need to go full upset stomach chicken-and-rice meals. Those are useful for a sick pup, but they aren't always a healthy baseline. But, a diet made to be as easy to digest and as simple as possible will help you identify if they have any food allergies or sensitivities.

The last thing you need if you're trying to train your dog to have better bowel control is feeding them something that makes them need to go all the time, right?

Make sure you're also controlling:

• The amount of food you give them, so they aren't over-eating and causing problems.
• The speed at which they eat, so they don't eat too fast and give themselves an upset tummy.
• The timing of when they eat, so you have a consistent pattern built into each day.

Feeding your dog a bland diet at the same time every day gives you a strong foundation you can use to build upon over time.

Step 3: Take the First Steps Slowly

Even if your rescue dog was housetrained originally, there's a chance that they've lost their control and habits over time.

This can happen for a few different reasons.

• They've been stuck in a rescue kennel for too long and haven't been taken out often enough, causing accidents.
• They were abandoned or on their own for long enough that no reinforcement kept them from abandoning their training, so they just do their own thing now.
• They're wild enough that the odors of a new environment and potentially other pets in the home drive them to mark their areas.

So, when you adopt a new pup, you need to figure out if they had training initially or if you are going to be starting from scratch.

Step 4: Set the Ground Rules

Before you can embark on potty training a rescue dog, you need to set the ground rules. And no, I don't mean sitting your pup down and telling them how it's going to be. I mean understanding yourself how you're going to have to handle the training.

Consistency is key.

Everything needs to be done at the same time each day, on the same schedule. If you can't get the breaks off work to come home and do it, you need someone else who can do it for you. If it means setting an alarm for every couple of hours throughout the night, so be it.

When I say everything, I do actually mean everything. Get up at the same time each day and take them out. Feed them at the same time each day. Take them on walks at the same time each day. Consistency is absolutely critical for successful potty training, especially if you want to do it as quickly as possible.

Use praise.

A key part of training any dog is praising them when they do the behavior you want them to do. It's called positive reinforcement, and it's really the only way you can successfully train an animal. Primarily, that means praising them when they do their doo outside appropriately.

This may also mean praise indoors if you see them go to mark, and they stop. It's all about rewarding them for their actions in the right environment.

Add a verbal component.

While it's often not strictly necessary for a dog to have a command to do their business once their training is in place, it can be helpful to reinforce what you want them to do in a given environment.

This is helpful, especially if you have different kinds of outings. Taking them out to play, taking them out for recall training, taking them out for an exercise walk; these can all have different purposes, and you may not want them to potty just anywhere. So, saying "go potty" when you want them to potty – and saying it again when they're actually doing it – helps build that association.

Use confinement.

It can feel bad, but any time you aren't around to directly supervise your dog and make sure you're enforcing the rules of potty training, they need to be confined to a crate or other small, enclosed space.

One fact about dogs is that, unless it's an extreme emergency, they will be very averse to relieving themselves too close to where they are spending their time. Fear, anxiety, and illness can all cause it, but if they're just not trained, they won't do it because it's unpleasant.

Step 5: Putting it All Together

Once you have all of the ground rules down, for yourself and your dog, all you need to do is put it together.

While regulating their time and behavior, watch what they do. Praise them when they do what you want them to do. Don't punish them when they act up – it doesn't work and it can make behaviors, anxiety, and fear worse.

If there's an accident, clean it up. It's going to happen, and that's unfortunate, but there's not a lot you can do about it after it happens. Again, punishment doesn't work. You just need to figure out why it happened and adjust your training to account for it.

That might mean taking your pup out more often, changing their diet or medication, or working with them to feel safer so they don't fear the unknown as much. Whatever the case may be, it takes time and dedication, but it can be done.

Housebreaking a Rescue Dog FAQ

Now, let's go over some of the questions that come up when talking about housebreaking a rescue dog.

Can you housetrain a rescue dog?

Of course! Rescue dogs are almost never a "lost cause," but you need to be prepared for accidents, smelly cleanups, and a lot more difficulty in training than you would have with a brand-new puppy.

Once you get the ball rolling, though, it can be extremely rewarding to see an unruly dog start to take commands and learn to be a better companion. Just like any other difficult but ultimately satisfying endeavor, it takes time and dedication, but you can definitely do it if you put your mind to it.

Is there a difference between housebreaking and housetraining?

Not really!

Some people claim that there is a difference and that housetraining still includes things like using a puppy pad, whereas housebreaking means never going inside the house at all. Other people don't recognize the difference.

Personally, I'm pretty sure the only reason we use housetraining instead of housebreaking is the connotations. "Breaking" is such an aggressive word, isn't it? It implies things like punishment, animal abuse, and a broken pup, and even if the results are very different, it's not the kind of impression we want to give as animal lovers.

How important is diet to potty training?

Somewhat! Diet on its own isn't going to have a huge impact, and as long as their diet is healthy enough that it's not causing problems, you're fine.

The issue comes when your rescue dog is eating something that upsets their stomach and leads to unpleasant side effects and accidents.

What are the most common reasons for a potty accident?

There are a handful of reasons why your pup might be relieving themselves where they shouldn't.

You'll want to consider the context and situation when an accident happens.

• Lack of training. A completely untrained dog won't have the foundation to know where they shouldn't go and might just find a corner in the living room as good as a corner of the yard.
• Submission. Some dogs are habitually submissive and may release their bladder a bit when they get too excited or as a form of submission to another dog they're greeting. It's only urine, and it's not much, but it's still a habit to fix.
• Territorial marking. When your pup leaves urine on the furniture, door frames, or anywhere around the home – and sometimes feces, as well – it's because they're scent-marking their territory.
• Fear and anxiety. Separation anxiety, loud noises, and threats – perceived or otherwise – can lead your dog to lose bowel control.

Depending on the cause of the accident, you may need to focus your training on different ways to solve the issue.

I just took my dog out, but they had an accident as soon as I got back inside!

This isn't a question, but that's okay. This happens a lot if you're trying to rush the process. Dogs often need to spend a bit of time investigating the area to make sure it feels safe for them to go. If you're impatient – and especially if you're trying to use a command and they're ignoring you – it feels like they don't need to go and are just messing around.

Then, you bring them back inside, where they know it's safe, and they immediately find a place to go.

The key is two things. First, make sure you give them plenty of experiences in your yard to make sure they feel safe there. Second, give them plenty of time to investigate before they do their deed. They probably do have to go; they just aren't quite comfortable yet.

So, there you have it: a guide to housetraining a rescue dog. Do you have any questions? If so, leave them in the comments, and I might be able to add them to the FAQ! Meanwhile, do you have any experience housetraining a rescue dog? Do you have tips or advice I haven't covered? Let me know!

A lot of the time, this won't be an issue. After all, you're there, and you're keeping them safe and secure, training them to come when called, sit and stay, or seek out specific objects (all of which are part of the 20 essential puppy commands.)

Other times, though, your puppy will feel the loneliness and isolation that comes with not being part of a pack. Even if you have other dogs, they may not take on a parental role, and your new pup might spend their evenings anxious and crying.

"Night crying" is a common problem with young dogs, and it's honestly heartbreaking. Few of us can go to sleep and rest peacefully when our new puppies are crying and whining and begging for attention and comfort in the dead of night from their crate in another room, where they can't see you. And all of that is just the tip of the iceberg; an anxious puppy is more likely to have a night accident or hurt themselves pawing or chewing at their crate.

How can you help your puppy make it through the night and deal with night crying? Fortunately, there are several things you can try.

Night Crying vs. Night Barking

In the past, I covered night barking in dogs. Night barking and night crying are similar! Puppies whine more than they bark, while older dogs are more likely to bark because they know it's louder and gets more attention. Some of the same causes are behind the issue, too, though it's not entirely the same.

In adult dogs, night barking can be caused by:

• Separation Anxiety
• Fear or Alarm
• Boredom
• Pain or Hunger
• Canine Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome
• Responding to Other Dogs

When you're thinking of a new puppy specifically, several of these aren't going to apply. CCDS, for example, is primarily a disease affecting elderly dogs, so it's not something your puppy is likely to experience. Others, though, like separation anxiety, can be primary drivers.

It's important that you recognize the difference between night crying in puppies and night barking in dogs because the same techniques aren't going to work between the two.

What Causes Night Crying in Puppies?

A new puppy crying at night is going to be, primarily, whining, grunting, and maybe some growling. In certain breeds, you may get some barking, yipping, and baby howling, but whining is the most common vocalization.

The biggest question is, why is your puppy crying at night? You can't treat the issue without first knowing the cause.

Fortunately, there aren't many reasons, so it's fairly easy to diagnose:

• They need to go potty. New puppies don't have a lot of control over their bowels and bladder, so they're more likely to need to go in the middle of the night, where an adult dog will be able to hold it longer.
• They're seeking comfort. Being isolated and contained in a crate is anxiety-inducing for a new puppy. They're probably used to sleeping with a parent and a pile of littermates, so being kept alone in a cold, dark box isn't comfortable for them.
• They have too much energy. When you're stuck indoors with a bunch of energy on a rainy day, you can go a little stir-crazy; your puppy is the same way. They have energy, they took their nap, and now they want to do something, but you're trying to sleep, and it's dark out, and they're stuck in that crate, and HELP!
• They're uncomfortable. Your puppy doesn't have a lot of ways to problem-solve and may not even be able to recognize why they're feeling uncomfortable. Even something as simple as a draft chilling them out in a colder house in the evening can be enough to make them whine all night.

There are always a few other possible issues, like something scaring them, an illness or injury causing them pain, or something distracting them all night, but these are less common.

Priority #1: Don't Give In!

Alright, before we get into the nitty-gritty, we need to discuss the biggest point of contention: do you suffer through it and ignore the problem, or do you provide comfort and aid to your puppy? There are arguments in both directions.

For one thing, the "cry it out" method has been used throughout history for both animals and people. Studies have shown that it doesn't really work for human babies and can lead to emotional trauma and anxiety as they get older.

It's similar in dogs; when they're seeking comfort and reassurance in the evening, and they don't get it, they fail to build trust in you, and that can mean they keep crying all night, every night.

On the other hand, training is training. If your puppy cries at night and it gets you to get up and give them comfort, play with them a little, or otherwise engage with them and make them feel happy and loved… you're effectively rewarding them for their crying, and that just further encourages them to cry at night.

So which is it?

Truthfully, it's both. It comes down to why your puppy is crying. If they're having toilet issues and need to go, ignoring them all night is going to be miserable for everyone involved. On the other hand, if they just have some anxiety and they're trying to fish for comfort, providing that comfort reinforces the fact that it works.

Here are some of the things I'm going to cover:

Fortunately, a couple of the solutions will help you address both points at once without conflicting signals.

Embark on Proper Crate Training

Proper crate training requires a lot of work, effort, and setup. You can't just put a crate in a corner, put your puppy in it, and close it up. How would you feel being closed in a room with no bed, no carpet, and nothing to keep you entertained?

I have a whole guide to proper crate training, which you can read over here. It goes through all of the major elements of crate training, including routines and more. Give it a look!

Beyond that, it's important to make sure the crate is a comfortable, safe place for your pooch. You want them to feel at ease, safe, and happy in that space, and you want it to be a place just for them.

A blanket, a favorite comfort toy, and even using treats to encourage them to enjoy their time in the crate are all good ideas. Of course, you can't exactly give them treats to stop them from whining unless you want to be whined at any time they want a treat.

Also, one of the biggest issues with being stuck in a crate all night is temperature. We people tend to like our houses a little cooler in the evening than during the day, but that can lead to a drafty, cold, and uncomfortable space in a crate, and since it's closed up, your puppy can't simply find a nicer place to be.

This is why the bed and blankets are a good idea, and you might also consider a cover or a blanket to drape over the crate for more insulation.

Make Sure They're Potty Trained

Young puppies need potty training, and the younger they are, the more frequently you'll need to escort them to the yard where they can do their business. For very young puppies, expect to have to do this every couple of hours.

Part of the key here is to make sure that, when you get up and give them attention for potty purposes in the middle of the night, that's all you do.

Don't talk at or coo at them, don't play with them, don't praise them unless they go, don't pet and engage with them. Give them praise and rewards when they go, then return them to their crate and leave them until the next time it needs to happen.

You want this to be brief and entirely potty-focused because otherwise, you're encouraging them to act like they need to go so they can get rewards. That's why it's critical to make sure they're actually doing their business before rewarding them and why you can't play or otherwise engage with them.

Consider the Crate's Location

If the main reason your puppy is crying is because they want to know you're nearby and have the reassurance that they're safe and cared-for, you have a few options.

One of the easiest is to put the crate in your room with you. Sometimes, your pooch doesn't need to be right there with you, in your lap or in your bed; they just need to be able to see, hear, and smell you.

Putting the crate in your room gives them the opportunity to know you're nearby, and they'll likely be able to sleep better.

If you don't want their crate to be in your bedroom, for allergy, odor, or noise reasons, you can gradually move it further from your bed every night, eventually moving it outside of your bedroom and towards its final space.

They'll be more used to knowing you're there, and can handle greater distances.

Give Them a Piece of You

Dogs are very scent-driven, and your new puppy might not be as comfortable as you'd want them to be without some element of you nearby.

One of the easiest options you have is to put a shirt or other item you've worn in their crate with them so they have a nearby scent source to snuggle with and feel comforted by.

There are also training aids you can use. One of the more effective options is a heartbeat toy. These are plush dog toys that include a small device that puts out a nearly inaudible heartbeat noise.

They can also have a way for you to stuff a shirt or something into them for the scent and even a heat pack for warmth. All of this tells your puppy they aren't alone and gives them that added comforting presence when you're not there with them.

Wear Them Out

A big part of crate training is making sure your pupper is all tuckered out at the end of the day. The more exhausted they are when they go to their crate for bed, the more likely they are to sleep without issue and sleep through the night. That means plenty of play and activity throughout the day, especially a little while before bed.

Just make sure you don't work them too hard right before sleep because they'll want to drink to recover, and then they'll need to go. That's not terrible, but if you want to avoid nighttime interruptions, it's a reasonable concern.

Make Sure They're Healthy

Everything above assumes that your pooch is in good health and is just crying for attention, bathroom needs, or out of anxiety and discomfort. Once you solve those issues through training and habits, you're good to go.

If you address those concerns and your puppy still won't sleep through the night without whining, you may need to look for underlying causes.

Young puppies aren't immune to health issues, so if they're sick or uncomfortable from some kind of internal pain (be it teething, an injury, or an illness), they'll have a hard time at night. If you suspect anything strange, talk to your vet.

With luck, consistent training, and good behaviors, you can help make sure your fur baby sleeps through the night in their crate without issue. Ideally, it will only take a couple of weeks at the most to get them trained for their bedtime. Just make sure everyone is on the same page with the training and you're good to go.

Have you ever had to help your puppy with their night crying problem? If so, what did you do in your particular situation? I'd love to hear all your stories, so be sure to leave those in the comments section!

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While no one wants to lose their pooch, if it's going to happen anyway because you have a furry escape artist, you want some way to be able to track them down.

One of the most popular forms of tracking is the Apple AirTag. In fact, the AirTag is often even marketed as a way to track down lost or stolen goods, including animals that escape. But does it work? Is it a good option, or should you pick something different? Let's talk about it.

What is an AirTag and How Does it Work?

Apple's AirTags are small discs about the size and shape of a poker chip; a little larger than a quarter and a bit thicker to boot. They're very simple devices, with a battery and a circuit board that allows it to connect to nearby iPhone devices, which it can use to ping Apple's servers and broadcast its location.

AirTags are surprisingly elegant in their design. Because they rely on the widespread market share of Apple iPhones in pockets all around us, they don't need heavy-duty batteries, GPS signal monitoring, or active broadcasting technology. They're basically just passive emitters that do a ping phone home when a nearby iPhone detects them.

With a dog, the idea would be to attach the AirTag to their collar alongside their other tags and let Apple do the rest. It's a great way to track down lost items, but is it effective for a moving object, like a lost dog? Well, let's dig a bit deeper into that.

Can You Use an AirTag to Track Your Dog?

Ostensibly, yes. AirTags can be used to track anything they're put on. Attaching it to a small keychain-style mount and putting it on their collar alongside their normal tags just adds one more little thing to jangle around their necks while they're out and about.

AirTags are moderately water-resistant, so if your pooch is playing in puddles, caught out in the rain, dives in the local water fountain, or ends up in a pond or stream, the AirTag will continue to function.

They rely on a single small watch battery to keep them powered, and their battery life is around a year, if not longer. They're entirely passive, too, so you don't need to worry about turning it on before your pooch escapes and runs off.

You might note, though, that I didn't say yes here. I don't think AirTags are a good option for tracking a dog, and there are a few major reasons why.

Why AirTags Aren't the Best Option for Tracking a Dog

There are a handful of very compelling reasons why you probably shouldn't use an AirTag to track your doggo.

They only ping home when an iPhone passes nearby.

This is a pretty big drawback. AirTags are Bluetooth devices, and they're part of the Apple ecosystem. That means two very important things.

• They can only ping home when an iPhone or other Apple device passes within their Bluetooth range, and
• The device that passes nearby needs to have Bluetooth enabled.

In a world where privacy-conscious people are disabling Bluetooth and other forms of tracking, and in a world where only around 28% of smartphone owners have Apple devices, that means a good portion of the people walking by aren't going to be able to interact with your AirTag.

In fact, your pup could walk right up to someone, and the AirTag might not phone home because they don't have an Apple device.

The "passes nearby" part of this is also critical. The range on an AirTag is only around 10 yards at the most, and that's in clear conditions without obstructions. Realistically, the iPhone has to get a lot closer than that to tag the tag.

The location ping can be on a significant delay.

If you were hoping that the AirTag could provide a real-time feed of where your pooch is and has been going, unfortunately, that's not the case.

AirTags only phone home when a device gets close enough, and real-time tracking isn't available. In fact, some people have reported that the AirTag pings can be on as much as a 15-minute delay!

Basically, the AirTag is meant to be a tool for if you accidentally drop a wallet or your keys and want to know where it is in general so you can search for it.

It's not super precise – though it's close enough that you could try to get your dog to come when called from that range – but it's best used for stationary targets. You'd be able to see if your keys got lost on the side of a trail or if they were moved and turned into a nearby lost and found.

Meanwhile, if a phone pings your dog's location, and it doesn't report to you for 15 minutes, you then mobilize and head out to that spot, which takes an additional 10 minutes; your pooch has already been gone for nearly half an hour. It only really works, then, if your doggo was found and stashed away in someone's yard or home while they try to track you down.

They're relatively easily exposed and can be chewed on.

AirTags are just small disc-shaped devices, so they need a mount. For dog tags, that mount is usually a keychain-like hanger, and that's often exposed enough that your pooch could pull it off or chew it up. It depends on how much your dog likes to mess with their tags, but it could be a consideration.

You really need to be an Apple user to make AirTags worthwhile.

While the AirTag relies on the people around you to have iPhones to make it track worth anything, it also requires you to have an Apple device to manage it.

The AirTag will automatically ping and beep if it doesn't detect its home network in a couple of days, and if you don't have any Apple devices for it to sync to, it's going to cause those problems constantly. This is a common question, and people on Reddit have even suggested opening up and removing the buzzer just to get it to stop.

You can track an AirTag using just an Apple account on their website, but that doesn't get around the phone-home device limitations. So, while you can technically use it without an Apple device, it becomes a massive hassle.

That's a lot of drawbacks! So, if AirTags are out, what other choices can you try?

What Alternative Tracking Options Do You Have?

First, let's talk about another option that doesn't do what you want, and that's the Ring Pet Tag. Ring is almost as prevalent as Apple, so having something that connects to Ring devices would be handy, right?

Well, it's even worse in this case. The Ring Pet Tag is actually just a piece of metal with a QR code on it that alerts your Ring app if it's scanned. That means someone needs to find your dog, scan the code, and ping Ring to let you know.

So… why not just have a tag with a phone number on it? Same deal, except instead of funneling the info through Ring, they just call you directly. The only reason to avoid it, really, is privacy; if you don't want people to have your phone number, you might not want your dog to have it, either. Who knows who they're sharing it with, right?

There's no real tracking on the Ring tag, so don't even consider it.

Now, let's talk about some of the real options available to you.

Option 1: Tractive's Dog Tracker

Tractive is one of the leading brands of dog tracker in the world today. The tracker is a relatively large plastic box that attaches securely to a collar, without dangling or leaving itself exposed to chewing (unless your pooch can get their collar off, but at that point, all bets are off.)

The Tractive tracker has a few benefits. For one thing, you can set a home zone and get automatic alerts if your dog roams outside of that home zone.

You can let them out in the yard unsupervised and be secure in the knowledge that if they escape, you'll be notified right away.

Tractive also has real-time GPS tracking, so if your dog gets lost, you can see the path they take, the place they are, and the direction they're moving.

It makes it way easier to track them down. And, since it's GPS-powered, it doesn't rely on nearby Apple phones or other specific devices or people.

There are a few downsides to Tractive, though.

• You have to pay a subscription fee. It's relatively inexpensive, ranging from $5 to $13 per month depending on the kind of package you buy, but any subscription fee is a fee.
• It requires decent cell service in the area. GPS trackers like Tractive use cell service to phone home, so coverage can be spotty in rural areas or areas where cell service is disrupted.
• Since it's an active tracker, you have to charge the battery a lot more often. The small version for smaller dogs has a tiny battery and needs charging about once a week, whereas the larger version for big bois can last up to a month between charges.
• It may be limited to the US. You have to pay for a premium plan to access their tracking outside of the US, so keep that in mind.

Overall, Tractive is generally considered one of the best, but they aren't the only option.

Option 2: Jiobit Trackers

Another option is the Jiobit tracker. These are tags similar to an AirTag in form factor, but they have GPS real-time tracking and geofencing the same way as the Tractive, and even has a full history of where your pet has been.

Jiobit isn't just designed for dogs, though. It's actually a general-purpose tracker, and has a bunch of features your dog is unlikely to use, like an alert button to call for help. It can also connect to local open internet signals!

Otherwise, Jiobit has a fairly high initial buy-in at $130 for the device, and a subscription fee ranging from $9 to $15 per month. It does have a lot of different accessories and connection options, though, so it's easily customized to the best way to attach it to your pooch.

Option 3: Fi Collars

The Fi collar is similar to both Tractive and Jiobit, except it's much smaller and is built directly into the collar itself. That means it's one less thing to have to attach to an already-laden collar, though it's not as useful if you're using a different collar for fashion or sentimental reasons.

It's also reportedly better than Tractive or Jiobit at using actual satellites and not just cell service to track locations. I can't verify whether it's outright better or not, but it does claim to have a longer range.

The collar itself is $100 and the subscription starts at $20 per month. It also has a one-time activation fee of another $20.

Other Options

There are other GPS trackers available as well. For example, the PitPat tracker is a little smaller than Tractive, a bit more expensive, and limited entirely to the UK. It's a pretty good tracker, as far as I know, but since it's only available in the UK, it's not part of the main list.

You can also consider something like Link, which is a combination tracker and training tool. It facilitates training by allowing you to use noises or buzzing to assist with training activities.

There's also the Halo collar, which is the most fully featured out of everything on this list, but it costs way, way more. The basic collar is $600, and the membership is $10 per month after that.

I'm sure I've only scratched the surface of the options available, so here's where I turn it over to you. What is your favorite dog tracker? Let me know in the comments!

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Young or old, if your pooch is digging holes, there's a reason for it, and it's not just to annoy you or in some vendetta against the landscaping. You can get them to stop, but it's important to understand why they do what they do. So, let's talk about it!

Why Do Dogs Dig Holes?

In cartoons, dogs dig holes because they want a place to bury their bones for later, or they're searching out that buried treasure, or sometimes because it's a prison break. None of that is really accurate to real life other than the fact that dogs will dig holes. Why do they do that, though?

Digging is an instinctive behavior of many kinds of canines. Even wild wolves will dig, sometimes enough to form whole dens for their pack. Modern dog breeds vary in how strong this instinct is; the "earth dogs," breeds like terriers, were historically bred to be small enough to chase problem rodents to their dens and even dig out those dens to get at the pests.

Back when pest control was more of a matter of keeping predators around than it was mechanical devices and chemicals, that was just how it was done, and some dogs were bred to be better at it.

Other dogs might not have been historically bred to be mousers or hunting dogs, but they still have some instinct to dig. Sometimes, it's because they hear or smell underground prey like moles. Other times, they smell something interesting under the surface. But these aren't the only reasons.

Another common reason is simply that the earth is cool beneath the surface. On a hot day, your dog gets overheated and wants to seek a cooler temperature to relax. They might find a shady spot in the yard to lie down, or they might seek out a puddle from last night's rainstorm.

Or, some dogs recognize that if they scrape away a layer of hot sun-heated dirt, the dirt beneath it is cooler, and they can lie down and let the ground absorb some of their heat. This is especially common with certain breeds like malamutes and huskies, who both love being cold and love being active.

And, to go back to those cartoons, the "dog burying a bone" image actually isn't as far off from reality as you might think. Dogs like to keep their valuable items safe, and while in the wild, that's usually excess food, in our house pets, it's more likely to be a chew toy or other beloved item they don't want to get stolen.

You're more likely to see this in breeds with a bit more anxiety and self-defense behaviors, where they're worried about other dogs in the house stealing what they have.

The jailbreak idea isn't too far from the truth, either. If your dog really wants to explore beyond the borders of your yard, but you have a pesky fence in the way, well, if they can't jump the fence, they can certainly try to dig a tunnel under it.

In some cases, it's not curiosity but anxiety that drives this behavior. A dog that is anxious and fearful might want to escape your yard so they can find a calmer and more isolated space.

And, hey, let's be real here. Digging holes is pretty fun. A bored dog with energy to burn can only do so much running in circles and barking at the trees before they try to find other behaviors, and those behaviors are often things like digging. This goes double if you've been gardening recently and they've seen you digging holes; they're just helping!

It's one thing to know why they're digging holes, though, and quite another to stop it. So, what can you do?

Ways to Stop Your Pup from Digging Holes

Knowing how to stop your pup from digging requires knowing what is leading them to dig in the first place and finding ways to redirect the behavior.

Keep your pup busy.

If your fur baby is bored and has excess energy they need to burn off, and they've decided digging is the way to do it, then you're going to need to find ways to spend that energy that don't involve digging.

Some of your potential options include:

• Playing fetch. Active toys engage their body and their mind, especially if you make a more complicated game out of it than just grab and return. Some dogs have endless energy and need their mind occupied more than their body, so coupling the fetch with other tricks, like getting them to hold before chasing, can be a good option.
• More walks. Especially for active breeds, you may need 2-3 walks per day, long enough to engage them and burn some energy. If you take them to frolic in a dog park, they may have more active time spent per walk and won't need as many, but it's contextual to the breed, age, and kind of activity of each walk.
• Keeping engaging toys around the yard, especially for less supervised time. Make sure they're toys that are mentally engaging and safe enough that your dog isn't going to hurt themselves by chewing on them when you're not watching them. Change out toys regularly so they don't get bored with them.

Generally, you just need to give them something to do with their boredom and nervous energy other than digging. It's not always possible without direct supervision, though.

Disincentivize digging.

There are a few options you have that can help disincentivize digging. You might notice that your pup is often digging in the same spots over and over. They also tend to like sniffing and exploring the dirt they're digging through.

A common option to try to stop this behavior is to make it unpleasant to keep digging. Some people recommend, for example, using a bit of their poo and burying it at the bottom of their holes. Then, the next time they go digging, they find their leavings.

A lot of dogs love exploring and even eating poo, but more the poo of other creatures and dogs, not their own. They generally don't like going after their own leavings, so finding it at the bottom of every hole they dig is going to become unpleasant and teach them not to dig.

If poo doesn't work, a couple of other options are lemon or cayenne. A bit of lemon juice at the bottom of the hole can be unpleasant enough that they stop digging, though it's tricky in that it won't last too long, so you need to get the timing right.

Cayenne, red pepper, or any capsaicin-containing spice can work too. It's not toxic to dogs, but it's irritating; putting a small sprinkle in the hole before you let them out will leave them reeling, unhappy with having sniffed it. Just don't use too much!

Make a dig pit and redirect the digging.

One of the best options is redirection. Digging is, as I mentioned above, a natural behavior for dogs. It's practically impossible to fully train out an instinctive behavior like that, so it's an uphill battle.

The actual best way to handle digging is to accept that digging is going to happen and just try to redirect it to a place where it won't bother anyone. A sandpit or sandbox, a corner of the yard you don't care about, wherever it is, it's a place you teach them it's okay to dig.

Then, when they dig anywhere else, redirect them to the digging place and away from your garden or the fence line or wherever else it is they're digging.

The tricky part with this kind of redirection training is that it takes a lot of direct supervision and fast reactions with rewards. Stay close to the digging area, and if they dig anywhere else, call them over. Reward them only if they dig in the digging area and not if they dig anywhere else.

You can help make this more interesting by burying treats or toys in the digging area so they have something fun to unearth and play with. If they dig anywhere else, they won't find anything rewarding, so they'll be more likely to dig in the digging area because they know they will find fun things there.

You definitely need to be consistent and intentional with this kind of training. If you have to leave them alone, either have someone else watch and train them or have some kind of very enticing toy that will hold their attention until you return. Consistency is critical for any training like this.

Try to ward off pests.

If your fur baby is digging explicitly because they hear, smell, or otherwise notice underground critters like mice and moles, no force in the universe is going to override their hunting instincts and keep them from going after their prey.

Unfortunately, there aren't too many ways you can ward off these critters. Sometimes, fencing that reaches a bit underground around your yard can help. Sometimes, certain plants or scents can keep them away. It's very hit or miss.

What you definitely shouldn't do is try to put out poison or another chemical to try to keep the smaller creatures away. Anything dangerous or deadly to a rodent is dangerous to your dog, whether they encounter it directly or they dig up and chow down on a poisoned rodent.

Try a ground cover.

If your fur baby is trying to dig under a fence or other barrier and get out of the yard, there are two ways to stop it.

The first is to figure out why they're trying to escape and remove that cause. Maybe there's something very attractive outside the fence that's harder to handle, but you may be able to collaborate with a neighbor to adjust schedules or otherwise avoid letting two dogs out at the same time. If, on the other hand, there's something in the yard they don't like, try to figure it out and remove it. You don't want to drive them away, after all.

The second is to make it unpleasant to try to dig around the base of a fence. Something like a ground-covering roll of chicken wire or chain link can make it uncomfortable and unpleasant for your fur baby to walk across and can keep them from approaching the property line to dig.

You can also use large, partially buried stones along the bottom of the fence line so they can't dig there, or even just a border barrier of something like gravel or lava rock that they'll find unpleasant both to walk on and to try to dig through. It can be a bit of a landscaping project to put these down, but once they're in, they should only require some ongoing maintenance.

Note: be very careful with chicken wire in particular. Since it's made of a thin wire that can break, rust, and be sharp, if your poor fur baby tries to walk over or dig through it, they can cut their paws. You will, generally, need to replace any chicken wire every year or two, depending on the condition, and you need to make absolutely sure the sharp ends of the wire are folded back and away from anywhere your pooch can access.

Your Ideas

Do you have any ideas on how to stop a dog from digging? Punishment is right out, of course. Never use punishment to try to train a dog; it doesn't work, and it's inhumane.

Other than that and the ideas I've mentioned above, do you have any? If so, feel free to let me know in the comments! I'd love to hear from you about your experiences with a pup that wants to live underground.

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They learn by playing with one another, they learn by watching their parents and being scolded or praised accordingly, and they learn when someone like you comes in and teaches them a behavior that otherwise might not be a natural part of their lives.

If you're fostering, raising, or adopting a new puppy, it's important to know what you can train them and when, as well as how long it's likely to take. So, what does a puppy training schedule look like?

Age 0 to 8 Weeks

From the moment they're born, puppies are learning. The trouble is, the things they're learning when they're under a week old are things like "how to breathe", "how to walk", and "how to eat", so they aren't really trainable behaviors.

At this point, they're too young to do much more than eat, sleep, grow, and gradually learn how to be living creatures. You aren't going to be training them much of anything.

In fact, if you're adopting a puppy rather than raising the puppies your current dog had, you won't even have them when they're this young. The vast majority of rescues and adoption services don't allow adoption until at least 8 weeks of age.

Age 8 to 16 Weeks

For adoption, this is the earliest you can get your puppy. Otherwise, this is the earliest you can start training them in behaviors beyond simply existing.

The first and most important thing you should be working on at this age is familiarity and comfort. Puppies learn best when they're in a safe and secure environment, so the more stress they're under, the harder it will be.

They'll need to get used to things like traffic noises, car rides, visitors, other dogs, and being handled, especially by the vet.

Tip: Many vets have special puppy visits you can schedule at this age, where they don't do any handling or invasive testing; all they do is sit with and play with the puppy, and reward them for their time. This helps train them that a trip to the vet isn't always going to be unpleasant or bad. If your vet offers these, look into having a few scheduled.

A lot of the early training you do with your puppy will be bringing them to new places, showing them new things, and helping keep them safe. That's not the only goal you have with training at this age, though.

The second goal is impulse control. This includes all of the most basic obedience commands, such as Sit, Come, and Drop It.

Some of these are to help keep the puppy safe – you don't want them running to and fro when you're waiting to cross a street, and you want to be able to get them to let go of an item they're chewing on that could be dangerous – but in general, it's all about teaching the puppy to obey you rather than their instincts.

Another bit of training to work on during this time is potty training. Potty training a new puppy is a complex task and it requires a lot of firm behavior on your part, but if you do it right, it really doesn't take very long. You can read more about the intricacies of puppy toilet habits in my guide here.

Other training you can work on during this time includes:

• Chewing and mouthing behaviors. Puppies use their mouths to explore the world around them, but you want to keep them from chewing on things they shouldn't. Two reasons for this. The first is to protect your furniture and other items from those sharp little teeth. The second is to protect your puppy from chewing on something that can harm them, like a toxic plant, a sharp item, or something they could choke on. You can't fully stop chewing, but you can redirect it to chew toys and other safe items.
• Socialization. If you've ever met a dog that gets really defensive at other dogs or other people or is scared of seemingly everything, it's likely because they were poorly socialized and have had bad experiences in the past. When they're young puppies, this is the best time to teach them that most things aren't dangerous and that you'll keep them safe.
• Leash training. Getting your puppy used to wearing a leash, even if they're mostly just pulling at it, is also important during this time. Leash training is best done in short bursts to start, potentially without even leaving the home, just getting them used to having it on and the feeling of being restricted.

A lot of the early training is just about laying the groundwork for future easy training and healthy behaviors.

Age 16 Weeks to 6 Months

At this age, you're essentially just continuing all of the things you've been teaching up to this point, and adding in the occasional more advanced version of them.

For example, a big goal of training during this time is polite play. Polite play is all about enforcing boundaries, understanding stop commands, and learning what is and isn't available for play.

Your puppy will likely be teething during some portion of this time, and that's a miserable experience, so they'll be chewing on a lot of different things; be sure not to punish them for it, just redirect it to acceptable chew toys.

House training should be going smoothly at this point. Potty training a new puppy is never an entirely smooth and easy process, but you should be able to address any issues that come up quickly and easily.

Leash training, as well, should be going smoothly. You can take them on walks with the leash now – even if it's just around the yard – and they should be learning more about how to stick close to you instead of constantly pulling in every direction to explore their boundaries.

Another bit of training to introduce and increase during this time is leaving your puppy alone. If you're too attached to your puppy, they'll never want to leave your side.

That means when you need to go to work, go to bed, visit a friend, or go shopping, your puppy is going to be anxious and miserable. Separation anxiety is also a big part of night crying. This "reverse socialization" in getting your puppy to learn how to be comfortable alone is critical.

Crate training should be ongoing as well. You'll likely have started this earlier, but dedicated crate training is its own beast, it's also part of a lot of other forms of training. Good crate training ends up being integral to a healthy lifestyle with your pup.

In your pursuit of more advanced training, your puppy will have already mastered basic commands like Sit, Stay, and Come. To layer on top of this, you'll want to get deeper into recall training. I have a whole guide on dog recall training, which you can read here, so give it a look!

Tip: If you're interested in getting into dog agility training – you know, the fancy running courses, weaving between poles, and jumping over gates – this is the time to start. Agility training isn't necessary to have a happy and well-trained dog, but it can be a good way to increase your bond with your pup, as well as give you new social outlets and exercise of your own. If you're interested in agility training, check out this post.

Any advanced training you want to do can be learned over time, as well, and you never have to go all the way. It's only in cases where you're training a dedicated service dog or other top performer that you need to be aggressive and rigid with training early on.

Age 6 to 12 Months

As your puppy gets older and more obedient, and you get better at learning how they react to various forms of engagement and praise, you can build up more advanced versions of everything we've listed.

If your dog is going to be a working dog of some form – whether it's in agility competitions, animal herding, or a service dog – you can work on more of the advanced commands and techniques they'll need to know.

A lot of your more advanced tricks and sequences of tricks can be taught during this time. A lot of the basic obedience commands can be really tested here as well, such as the sit and stay combo or the come/heel command in a place with significant distractions.

You'll also be validating their current training. Make sure recall training works while off-leash when there are distractions (like a friend with something tasty on hand) so you can trust that they'll come when called no matter what.

Missing Milestones

So, what happens if you're adopting a dog that is already older than the puppy stage, was poorly socialized, or was otherwise not treated properly during their formative months?

The answer is that you have a challenge on your hands.

Older puppies and adult dogs that have had a hard early life are going to have bad behaviors they need to be trained out of, and they are likely not going to be obedient to the common commands because they never learned them or had them reinforced.

Training an older dog is entirely possible, it just takes longer and requires more care. You need to be prepared for the challenge or leave it to someone who can dedicate themselves to it because it won't be easy. Still, older dogs deserve love, especially if they've had a hard early life, so please, if you can, take that time.

Tips for Smooth and Effective Puppy Training

Puppy training requires consistency, reward, and positive reinforcement.

One of the best tools you have at your disposal is your puppy's food. Food – and sometimes, high-value treats like bits of cheese – is one of the best ways you can motivate a puppy and reward them for their behavior.

When using food as an aid in training, make sure you're only giving it to them when they successfully do what you want them to do. If you reward them regardless, you aren't training them, you're just feeding them.

Unfortunately, there's no shortcut to training. You need to put in the time and effort, and you need to practice. You can't show a dog a trick once and assume they'll have picked it up. You need to start small and build up.

Even something like the "sit" command isn't something they'll have the self-control to do indefinitely. Teach them to sit, reward them when they do, and let them go. Gradually increase the amount of time they need to stay sitting before the reward, to build up patience. The same goes for pretty much all forms of training. Start small, start simple, and build up.

Consistency is critical, and I can't say it enough. Consistency in rewards, consistency in commands, and consistency between people. A common issue you see in puppy training is that one pet parent is on the ball and keeps track of a behavior, but the other ignores it or rewards the wrong thing, and it muddles the waters.

I've also mentioned this many times before, but don't use punishment. Dogs don't respond well to punishment and negative reinforcement. Plus, it makes them more fearful and anxious of you and of other people, and can lead to a defensive, or even aggressive, adult dog. Nobody wants that if they can help it, and it's a lot of work to undo the damage caused by punishment.

Finally, don't forget that different dogs, and even different breeds, learn different things at different paces. A working breed like an Aussie is going to have a lot more energy and be more intent on herding behaviors than a larger and lazier breed.

Some take commands very well, while others are less self-confident or more anxious. Every dog goes through the same kinds of training and experiences, but they may learn in different ways or at different paces, and you need to be able to accommodate that.

When all is said and done, though, you'll have a happy, bright-eyed, and well-trained pup to keep you company for many years to come.

So, now that we're at the end of this article, do you have any questions? As always, I'd be more than happy to help you out however I can. Be sure to leave me a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

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Read More Dog Behavior Guides

• My Dog's Back Legs are Weak and Quivering: What Do I Do?
• What Is Dog Recall Training and How Do You Start?
• 6 Reasons Your Dog Barks at Night (And What To Do)

• 8 Quick Tricks That You Can Teach Your Puppy
• The Beginner's Guide to Off-Leash Training for Dogs
• How to Train Your Dog to Let You Clip Their Nails
• How to Establish an Effective Dog Crate Training Routine

There's one thing that pretty much all of these have in common, though. Can you guess what it is?

That's right; it's all beginner training. These are the kinds of training you do with a puppy to keep them safe, happy, and groomed. Sure, you can train older dogs that haven't been well-socialized or trained in the past, but it's still basic concepts and entry-level dog training.

What about more advanced kinds of dog training? Sure, there are all sorts of complex tricks you can teach your pup, and watching that furball go through a whole routine at your command can be pretty exciting, but that's not what I'm here for today.

Because, you see, there's a certain kind of pinnacle to dog training. Two, in fact. The peak performance of a pupper can be expressed in one of two ways.

The first is as a working dog. A great example of this is sled dogs. Sled dogs have a job to do, and make no mistake, they love doing that job. They want nothing more in life than to be inside that harness and drag a sled in tandem with their best buddies in all the world. Herding dogs, hunting dogs, and other kinds of working dogs are all the result of a lot of consistent training to do a specific kind of task, usually a task that the dog was bred to love.

The second pinnacle of a trained pup is a show dog. Dogs that compete in agility contests are some of the most well-trained, excited, lovable, and loving dogs you can find. But agility training isn't easy; there are a bunch of tricks that need to be performed in sequence (and often in a sequence that changes), and it's all about not just doing those tricks but following your lead as you guide them through those tricks.

Of course, you don't need to go all-in to competitive agility performances. Training your pup on a few agility tricks isn't very hard; it's fun to do, it's a good way to make sure they're disciplined and obedient, and it's an excellent way to tire them out. Plus, agility course props like jumping gates, tunnels, and see-saws can be pretty cheap and easy to set up, move, and store away when you don't want to use them.

Are you interested in agility training? If so, keep reading, and I'll tell you everything I know.

Is Agility Training Right for Your Dog?

Agility training often seems like an exclusive sport for dogs bred for speed, endurance, and, well, agility. You often see border collies, Aussie shepherds, and other similar breeds in competitions. And sure, that's true if you're hoping to reach a competitive level.

The truth is, pretty much any dog can even reach a competitive level in agility, though it's not exactly fair to put a chihuahua up against a mastiff in competition. It's all part of why divisions are important.

Your dog doesn't need to be an agility breed or even a pure breed. There are even special competitions just for older dogs, with lower jumps that won't put stress on their joints.

Your dog needs to be physically healthy and obedient enough to obey commands, but that's pretty much it as far as the requirements to get into the sport. Even then, those are the requirements for competing; if all you want to do is get into agility in your backyard, you can do that too, and you don't even need anything special to do it.

Consider getting into agility if:

• You want a unique and exciting way to get your dog to exercise.
• You want to give your dog a sense of purpose.
• You want to strengthen your bond with your dog.
• You want to build teamwork, trust, and communication with your dog.
• You want to open the door to social groups and friendships with other trainers.
• You want to get some exercise of your own, above and beyond simple dog walking.

Dog agility training and performance can be fun, rewarding, and exciting, and if you choose to pursue competitive-level agility, there can even be tangible rewards as well. Who doesn't like a little prize now and then?

Foundational Training for Dog Agility Training

You can't get a new puppy, so bring them to your backyard where a bunch of jumps, hoops, and tunnels are set up, and get started on agility training. There are a bunch of other commands and forms of training you need to do first.

• Basic obedience. Your dog needs to know at least the basic commands of Sit, Down, Stay, and Come. All of these are critical for managing a dog off their leash, particularly in exciting, high-pressure, and novel environments like competitive arenas or parks where other dogs and people are everywhere.
• Eye contact. You need your dog to be able to pay attention to you and nothing else because once they get distracted, it's all over.
• Crate training, especially if you're traveling to competitions and shows, since your doggo will generally need to be in their crate for a lot of the time for their own safety and that of others.

After that, you can start building up intermediate tricks and coordination activities.

One very useful trick, for example, is nose targeting. Nose targeting is a kind of focus training where you get your pup to touch their nose to your hand or to a specific target you're holding.

When you see dogs running an agility course, and their trainer is running ahead holding their hand out to guide them through obstacles, that's what they're doing; guiding their dog with the hand they want to touch.

Teaching your dog to walk backward is also a good and useful trick. It's great for bodily awareness and can help in training agility tasks if they miss something or get stuck in a tunnel and need to back up.

Tricks to Start With for Building Agility

Once your dog has a good grasp of being obedient and following your cues through various obstacles, you can train them in additional tricks that can lead up to learning the specific agility obstacles.

There are many different tricks you can try, each with their own levels of difficulty:

The most popular ones to start with are:

• Hoop jumping. Training your dog to jump through a hoop held close to the ground is a lead-in to training for tire jumps higher off the ground or when combined with other obstacles.
• Figure-8s. Training your dog to spin in circles in both directions and to weave through your legs, table legs, or other poles in a figure-8 pattern is good training for flexibility and for the pole-weaving tricks commonly seen on agility courses.
• Simple jumps. Dog agility jumping can be both through hoops and above poles and with varying heights. Jumping is a core competency for agility dogs.

All of this helps you build up towards a robust and full understanding of how to behave when faced with various obstacles on a course, in your backyard, or anywhere else in life.

Getting the Obstacles

There's one thing I haven't touched on yet, and that's the obstacles themselves. If you want to train your fur baby to run through them, you kind of need them, don't you? Well, fortunately, you can set up some pretty decent obstacles with some DIY materials or repurposed children's toys.

Before getting into specific obstacles, one thing to keep in mind is that your course should be customized for your pup. Older dogs should have lower jumps and more spacing.

Tunnels need to be big enough for your dog to get through without getting stuck. Dogs of different sizes need different scales of objectives. If everything is the wrong size, it won't be fun for either of you.

First you have the jumps. Simple gate jumps are poles with adjustable heights that your dog needs to jump and clear without knocking the pole over. Agility sets generally have at least six jumps, and often have more.

The simplest way to set up jumps is with some PVC pipe. PVC is resilient, easy to buy, cut to size, and put together like puzzle pieces with various poles and joints.

The main things to keep in mind are that they need to have adjustable heights so you can train different difficulties of jumps and that the bars need to be able to be knocked loose, both as a sign your pup didn't clear the jump and to prevent them from either knocking over the whole apparatus or hurting themselves running into it. Here's a simple example of a homemade jump gate.

The second kind of obstacle is the tunnel. Tunnels are great because they show your dog doesn't need your guiding hand every second of the course. You can also curve and bend them however you like to make simple S, C, or other bends.

Tunnels can be tricky because when a dog barrels through it at top speed, it risks tearing or breaking, especially if they slip, lose control, and tumble against the side. Fortunately, tunnels are cheap; you can get dog agility tunnels for anywhere from $25 to $250, depending on how long, how much, and what construction the tunnel has. If you're working on a budget, there are also cheaper tunnels made for children to play in that you can repurpose, at least until you've decided you're into agility enough to get more equipment.

A commonly forgotten but also useful obstacle is the pause table. These are raised platforms your dog jumps up onto and, critically, pauses for a moment. It's part of a demonstration of obedience and gives both you and your dog a chance to catch your breath for a second and refocus on the next sequence.

You really don't need much for these, just something that is sturdy enough to support your dog's weight and won't wobble or tip over when they jump up onto it.

One of the most iconic obstacles is the weave poles. They're also one of the easiest to set up; all you need are poles and ground soft enough to stick them in. Alternatively, you can build a frame with adjustable spacing to hold poles, but again, you don't even need that until you're sure you want to get deeper into agility.

How to Set Up a Course

This is where things get interesting. Putting it all together! Obviously, you want to start slow. Your dog knows the basics, but you'll want to walk them through how to put each bit together, with course markers to go around, poles to weave through, jumps to make, and so on.

How do you arrange your obstacles? At first, it really comes down to how much space you have to set them all up. There are defined course options, like the Birgitta Hermansson sequence or other more general sequences, but you really don't need to get into anything that well-defined, at least not right away.

Just put together a few obstacles, train your dog on how to recognize and go through them, and gradually work on doing it faster and in more complex ways. Change things up, slowly raise jump heights, and you'll be agility-trained in no time!

Setting Your Goals

Finally, the one remaining piece of the puzzle is goals. Broadly, you probably fall into one of three categories.

1. You just want agility tricks in your repertoire; you don't plan to take it seriously, but think it's fun to have a dog obedient enough to make it through a course you set up.
2. You want to take agility somewhat seriously and maybe participate in local clubs, but you aren't really going to compete or make it a serious hobby.
3. You want to go all-out on agility dogs and raise a champion.

Knowing your goal gives you something to work towards and, more importantly, some idea of how seriously you want to take things, how much budget you can dedicate to it, and how much time you want to spend on it.

Agility is a lot of fun, but it's important not to take it too seriously and keep it fun. Hopefully, getting into it will give you a good experience and open the doors to a whole new world of people, dogs, and tricks!

Have you ever attempted dog agility training before? If so, what was your experience like? I'd love to hear all your stories, so be sure to leave those in the comments section!

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Adopting and taking care of a stray cat is incredibly fulfilling, and it's definitely not uncommon. There's an entire subreddit dedicated to the so-called Cat Distribution System, even. Sometimes, the cats find you.

If you want to adopt a stray, there are a lot of things you should do, and a bunch you shouldn't, if you want all to go well. So, let's talk about it!

Stray vs Feral

Before getting into the tips I have for adopting a stray cat, it's worth briefly touching on the difference between stray cats and feral cats. While many people use the terms interchangeably, there's a pretty distinct difference between these two types of "community cats."

Stray cats are cats that are at least somewhat socialized, but are now living on their own outdoors for some reason. Maybe they were abandoned, maybe they got lost. The point is, they have had some contact with humans and know how to interact, even if they aren't entirely comfortable in doing so.

Feral cats, on the other hand, have had either no human contact or have spent so many years without human contact that they're essentially wild animals. They tend to be more fearful and defensive, and even if you get into their good graces and adopt them, they're still likely to have firm boundaries, like an aversion to belly rubs, a keen defensiveness about their personal space, and a preference of staying at arm's length.

There are a few important differences in how to handle ferals versus strays; ferals are harder to get to trust you and take longer to warm up to you, and may be a lot harder – and potentially more dangerous – to try to wrangle in the first place. If you aren't well-versed in dealing with feral animals, you need to be cautious of feral cats, while strays tend to be easier to socialize.

How will you know the difference? Well, if you're considering adopting a stray cat, chances are it's not feral because a feral cat isn't going to let you get anywhere close to it.

Note that for the purposes of this post, I'm mostly talking about adopting a stray off the street. Several of the steps in this post focus on seeking the original family of the animal and taking initial care steps, but if you're adopting a stray that was surrendered to a shelter, the shelter will have done a lot of that for you already. Adopting from a shelter is generally the better way to go, but as the Cat Delivery System above shows, that's not always how it works out.

Anyway, with that out of the way, let's talk about the do's and don'ts of adopting stray cats.

DO Try to Find the Cat's Home

Before considering adopting a stray, the absolute first thing you should do – after basic necessities, of course – is trying to find out if the cat is a lost pet or beloved runaway and has a home they should be returned to. Cats love to explore; they sneak out through cracked doors or open windows all the time, and sometimes, they go on even bigger adventures.

All the while, there are pet parents and potentially children suffering in the absence of their beloved feline family member. As much as you might like to care for the cat yourself, you'd much rather make their day bringing them home, right?

Obviously, if the cat has a collar, you know better. But what you might not see is if the cat has a microchip. So, your first order of business should be taking the cat to the vet to get them scanned for a chip. If they have a chip, that chip should have contact information for the cat's family and can make it easy to reach out and return their feline friend.

If the cat has no chip, that doesn't mean they're free and clear, though. You should still do at least a few of these:

• Post on your city's local Facebook page and in Lost Pet groups.
• Post on your local Nextdoor for lost and found pets.
• Post on your local subreddit if there is one for your area.
• Contact local vets and see if they have a notice for the lost animal.
• Make and print out some "found cat" posters to put up around your neighborhood and in frequently visited local businesses.
• Check if there are lost pet notifications with the local police department and animal control.

How long you keep up your efforts and how hard you look is up to you. It's certainly possible that the cat has no active family or home or that the family moved away and will never see the posts. It's always good to make a good-faith effort to find their home, though.

What if the cat has a family? You might be bonding with the fuzzy feline, but it's still almost always better to give them back. In rare cases, you may be able to negotiate a hand-over, particularly if there's some reason, such as one spouse passing away and the other not particularly wanting the cat. Otherwise, though, just feel good about reuniting them.

If you find that your heart grew three sizes after experiencing even just a couple of days of having a cat in your home, why not take a trip to your local shelter? I can pretty much guarantee you they have plenty of local strays and abandoned cats in need of homes, and this is the perfect time for you to pick one up.

DO Double-Check Local Laws

Depending on where you live, there may be laws as to how long you need to keep up efforts to find the family of a stray and how long you have to have been caring for them before they legally can become yours. Your local animal shelters will likely know.

These laws and regulations can vary from city to city, county to county, and state to state, so I can't really give you details here.

DO Bring the Cat to a Vet

I already mentioned bringing the cat to the vet to check for a microchip, but it's a good idea to bring them in for a full checkup regardless. You want to check for and address issues like fleas, worms, and other parasites, as well as any injuries or diseases, malnutrition, and more.

You can also have them checked to see if they're intact or if they were previously spayed/neutered (and if there are signs that they were a catch-and-release, like a clipped ear). There are also various tests you can run to check for things like FIV or other illnesses that can dramatically impact the needs of the cat when you're caring for them.

Fortunately, most vets are more than happy to do all of this, though with the current widespread vet shortage, many might not be able to take you on as a permanent patient afterward.

DO Get the Necessities

While bringing a cat into your home can be done with a bare minimum of makeshift items, it's a good idea to make sure you have the real necessities as soon as possible.

Necessities include:

• A litter box, if not more than one. Generally, you want one litter box for general use and one per cat if you have more than one cat. Some cats end up territorial around "their" box, and you don't want accidents because of it.
• Bowls for food and water, preferably wide-based and difficult to knock over.
• Food. If the cat has been eating food at a shelter or from a home that puts food out for strays, try to match the food if you can; otherwise, get something healthy and inoffensive to minimize digestive upset.
• Scratching posts to help give the cat something to scratch while you train them not to scratch the furniture.
• Grooming supplies. Many strays will need some solid grooming, including the potential for sanitary trims, nail clipping, and plenty of brushing.
• A carrier. You need something to keep the cat in for trips to the vet, after all.

Other items, like toys, treats, and catnip, can come soon but don't need to be in your immediate first purchase of supplies if you don't want to foot the entire bill right off the bat.

DON'T Rush the Cat

Most stray cats, unless they're very young kittens, are going to have habits, behaviors, boundaries, and a keen sense of independence that comes from having lived and survived on their own for however long they were living on the streets. They may also be shy, standoffish, or just not want to be touched.

The faster you try to treat them like a housecat, by petting them, picking them up, and otherwise bothering them, the more likely they are to develop negative associations with you. Often, the stray cat will hide and be averse to touch for days or weeks. The process of winning their trust and bonding with them can be a slow and time-consuming adventure.

To that end, it can be important to learn a cat's body language and figure out exactly how it applies to the stray you're working on adopting. It's also a very good idea to have some safe space set aside for them, where they can go to retreat and feel comfortable and where you won't bother them.

DON'T Dive Into New Food Right Away

Stray cats are often used to eating whatever scraps, garbage, birds, rodents, and insects they can find. Many are eating unhealthy diets or are malnourished, and it's not uncommon for some to have low-grade poisoning from contaminated foods.

Food – good, real food, along with treats – is a key way you can start to win their trust. But, you also have to be careful not to make any of the common food-based mistakes, such as:

• Feeding inconsistently. Your goal is to be viewed right away as the unfailing, regular provider of food.
• Feeding too much. Cats that have experienced food insecurity are more likely to gorge themselves and make themselves sick.
• Overdoing it with the treats. While you certainly want to have treats on hand for rewards, making them too common can be a problem later on.

Food will play an important role in building trust, so try to make sure it doesn't turn against them.

DO Be Patient with Behavioral Problems

Stray cats are rarely well-trained, and even if they were trained before they ended up on the streets, some of those behaviors might no longer be well-reinforced. You need to be patient and understanding about their behaviors, from exploring to scratching to litter accidents.

In many ways, you'll effectively be training a new kitten, except an older cat has behaviors already ingrained in them that can be harder to counteract, and they may not take to training as quickly. It can still be done – you can always teach an animal new tricks as long as they aren't going senile – but you have to be patient and consistent with them.

In the meantime, don't be afraid to clean up the occasional accident. Remember, as well, that cat-proofing your home is an ongoing process unless you have other cats already.

DON'T Adopt a Stray if You're Not Financially Stable

Adopting an animal is a long-term commitment, and it's one you need to be well aware of before you take the leap. If you can't guarantee that you can care for the stray, you need to instead work with a local rescue or humane society to find them a loving home that can.

It sucks to hear, and I know that many people adopt animals when they really shouldn't. Still, nothing is more heartbreaking than a cat that is just learning to trust again, having to be given up for adoption or, worse, put back on the streets because the vet bills, food, and other costs are too much for you. Do what's best for the cat!

Have you ever adopted a stray cat? If so, what was your experience like? I'd love to hear all your stories about your fur babies, so be sure to leave those in the comments section below!

There's a whole range of training, too. Some people train their fur babies for the bare minimum – the commands like sit, heel, come, and stay – so they can keep control over their unruly pup and maybe give them a few tricks they can perform.

Other people have very well-trained doggos who faithfully stay at the side of their designated pet parent, seemingly unconcerned with the cool smells, squirrels to chase, or distractions in the world around them. We think of these pups as well-trained, but even they aren't as trained as they could be.

The extreme end of training is service dogs. Whether they're the local K-9 unit, trained to sniff out drugs and catch bad guys, or they're disability service dogs who can do everything from fetch a beverage to perform specific kinds of first aid. It's crazy what you can teach a dog with some dedicated effort and training!

If you want your fur baby to be able to do just about everything short of holding down a paying job, it's all about the training. Training requires consistency, a keen understanding of how dogs work and what their reward system encourages, and patience. It also helps to start when they're young, but you can keep adding more commands over time. You can actually teach an old(er) dog new tricks if you do it right.

So, let's talk about the 20 best commands you can teach your pup. This encompasses everything from the most basic, common commands to more complex and nuanced commands, but once you have the full roster down, you'll have a dog that is better-behaved and more capable than a lot of people you and I know.

Before we dig in, though, I'll note that these are commands, not necessarily generalized behaviors. As such, things like training your dog to let you clip their nails aren't on the list because they are not commands. What are commands? Let's get started.

1: Come!

One of the most important commands to teach a dog, and often one of the first you teach them, is how to come when you call them.

This is such an important behavior that it's the foundation of recall training, and I wrote a whole guide on just this one command. You can read that guide to dog recall training here.

2: Sit!

Sit is an essential command that ensures your pup can stay in one place calmly enough to avoid being a disruption while keeping themselves planted on the floor.

It's a good way to keep them from jumping up or onto people, and it's useful in a ton of different situations. Here's how to teach it.

3: Stay!

Teaching a dog to stay where they are is one of the most important commands you can teach.

It keeps them out of trouble while you do something they shouldn't be part of, whether that's stepping into the bathroom, waiting to cross the road, or just testing their self-control before giving them a reward.

4: Potty

Potty training is important for every pooch, but relatively few people actually teach a potty command.

I recommend it, though; it can be a good way to make the distinction between "we're going out for a walk" and "we're going out for potty," which can be a pretty significant difference, especially when you're waking up at three in the morning to deal with your pooch.

5: Lay Down

Often, "lay down" is the follow-up command for sitting, and it's a way to get your dog to get themselves comfortable where they are. It also often forms part of a trick chain, where you get them to sit, lay down, roll over, shake, speak, and more, all to show off how well-behaved they are.

Laying down is relatively easy to teach, though getting them to stay laid down is another matter.

6: Drop It!

Dogs investigate the world around them with their faces. Since they don't have hands, there are only so many ways they can interact with an object, and the most common is with their mouth. That's why they chew on pretty much anything, after all.

Well, if you want to keep them from chewing on something valuable or important – or, critically, something potentially harmful to them – teaching them to drop it is critical.

7: Go To Bed

The "go to bed" command can be a very useful one, and not just for the evening when you want to go to sleep. It's also a good way to get your fur baby to settle in when you and the family are having a meal, or when a guest comes over and you want your pooch out of the way until they're settled in.

It's part of crate training and definitely something you should teach.

8: Find Your X

Sure, an entire breed is called the "retriever," but that doesn't mean retrieval is limited just to our dopey goldens.

Retrieving an item can be useful for any number of circumstances, such as:

• Grabbing a toy or pillow to present to a guest to keep them calmer.
• Grabbing a specific toy to play with.
• Grabbing designated household items as part of service training.

The key is to make sure every distinct item you want them to get has a specific name they can attach to it in their adorable doggy minds.

9: Heel

Heel is another very important command when you and your fur baby are out on the town. The goal isn't just to get them to come to you but to keep them at your side as you walk.

A well-trained pooch sticking to their parents' side while they walk, even without a leash, can be impressive to witness. Fortunately, it's just like any other trick and isn't all that hard to train.

10: Down

Some dogs are extremely excitable and love to hop or stand up, especially if they're trying to get a closer look and closer sniff of whatever it is you have in your hands. Or maybe they just love you and want to lick your face, but your face is all the way up there and they're down here and just let me up!!!

Many people don't enjoy being jumped on, though, so teaching your furry child to stay down is always a good option.

11: Leave It

Similar to "drop it," "leave it" is the command you give to your pooch when you see them about to get into trouble.

Whether they're about to try to steal another dog's toy, take a nibble of that delightful roadkill, or just pick up a big gross stick you don't want them carrying around, getting them to leave it alone is a great command to teach.

12: Paw

Another great command you should teach your fur baby is to hand you their paws. It's sort of like "shake," except that instead of just being a parlor trick, it's a useful command for grooming.

You need to check paw health and trim nails, and if you have to fight your pooch to do it, it's going to be worse for everyone involved.

13: Speak

Interestingly, a lot of the time we pet parents try to teach our pooches not to bark. So, teaching them to speak on command seems like it runs counter to the plan, right?

Well, it actually works together with keeping quiet. You can even teach them different volumes of barking for different commands, like whispering. Sadly, no matter how much you try, you aren't going to be able to teach them English words; they still only speak their native canine!

14: Hush

Dogs bark all the time for just about anything. Teaching them to bark on command doesn't necessarily teach them not to bark at other times. That's a whole other process and one I've written about before.

The goal of teaching a hush or quiet command is to try to get your fur baby to be quiet when their barking is otherwise disruptive. They still might let out some boofs when they see a squirrel they'd love to chase or an unexpected visitor shows up at the door, but

15: Under

Unlike the tricks above, Under is a service dog command. It's not one you're likely to be using in casual life with a dog, but if you have a service dog that accompanies you when you're out shopping, going to restaurants, or otherwise engaging with the world around you, it can be very useful. The main use is to instruct your fur baby to position themselves under something, usually the chair you're sitting in, so they're out of the way and as minimally disruptive as possible. Unfortunately, despite society allowing and normalizing service dogs, plenty of people still find them disruptive even when they aren't.

Your pooch doesn't need to be a service dog to learn service dog commands, though, so if you find that this behavior would be useful to train, there's no reason not to give it a shot!

16: Find Todd

Another potentially useful command is teaching your dog to go to another member of the household. Maybe it's "go find daddy" or "go find mommy," or maybe it's a more robust list of people you know that you can teach them to find.

You can even accompany this with another command to get them to bring an object to someone else. It's a more complex command, though, so you'll likely want to teach this one after a lot of the rest on this list are already learned.

17: Open

This is perhaps one of the riskiest commands you can teach a dog. It's essential for service dogs, but if your dog isn't extremely well-behaved, it can be very dangerous.

Open is the command you teach to get your dog to open a door. It's usually accompanied by special tools to help your pooch open a door, and it's a very useful service command if your hands are full or you have trouble opening doors on your own, but left to their own devices, a dog with freedom of movement can be risky.

18: Back Up

Another potentially useful command is to train your dog to walk backward.

Taking a few steps back is useful for a bunch of different situations, including keeping your pooch away from something dangerous, from another dog, or from a person who is afraid of dogs. Teaching them to walk longer distances backward, meanwhile, is a fancy trick you can use to show off.

19: Sit Pretty

Sitting pretty is another word for beg and is just an advanced form of sitting.

You're not actually teaching your dog to beg – they're more than happy to do that without training – but it's a fun display command.

20: Car

Car can be a useful command to get your doggo to hop up into the car when it's time to go somewhere, like to the park or to the vet.

It's tricky, though; you need to use it all the time and avoid poisoning the command by only using it when you're taking them somewhere unpleasant. You may also have a unique command specifically for longer car trips where they'll be chilling in the back seat for a long time.

21: Post It

Did you know that with a little dedication, you can teach your dog to write whole blog posts? It's true!

Well, okay, it's not actually true. As much as I love my fur babies, their command over the written word leaves much to be desired. Kind of everything to be desired, actually. They can't even write their own names. Wouldn't it be cool if they could?

On that note, there are tons of different commands and variations you can teach, and dedicated service or working dogs have specialized commands as well. You really can teach a dog just about any behavior, as long as you find a way to reward them for doing it in a way that associates the behavior with both a command and a reward.

What are your favorite dog commands? Have you taught any of your fur babies anything particularly unique or useful that I didn't cover here? If so, tell me all about it in the comments below! There's nothing I love more than hearing the stories of adorable fur babies and their antics.

A key part of training is discipline, and while most training should be using positive reinforcement, there's room for discouragement as well. The trick is, you need to do it right. There are a lot of wrong ways to try to discipline a cat, many of which will stress out your fur baby, leading to worse behavior and even health problems.

So, how do you discipline a cat firmly enough to reinforce the right behaviors and discourage the wrong ones but gentle enough to avoid damaging your relationship, discouraging the wrong things, or stressing them out? Here are half a dozen tips and techniques I've pulled from my own experience and plenty of cat training resources.

How NOT to Discipline a Cat

First, let's start with what NOT to do.

First of all, no yelling, screaming, shouting, or lecturing your cat. Your cat is not a human, and as much as they are a beloved member of your family, they are not cognitively capable of understanding pretty much anything you say. They don't have language! When a cat (or a dog, or pretty much any other animal) responds to commands, it's not because they know what the words mean. It's because they recognize a pattern of sounds and associate it with a desired behavior – even if that behavior is "stop."

Don't get me wrong, it can be fun to lightheartedly lecture your cat, but you have to know it's meaningless for the cat. It's just cathartic for you. Screaming or yelling, though, that's right out. Shouting stresses out your poor fur baby, and that's not going to help anything.

Second, never try to get physical with your cat. For one thing, a swat or slap or shake or anything else isn't going to create the kind of association you want to create. Instead, it's just going to make your cat wary of you, or even scared of you, or scared of people in general. Worse, if your cat really isn't going to take it, well, only one of you has knives attached to your fingers, and it isn't you. Trust me; they win.

You also want to avoid things like spraying your cat with water, using a loud noise, or other kind of deterrent. There are two reasons for this. First, you need to do it every time your cat performs the behavior, and since you need to do things like go to work or sleep, you won't be around to catch every possible chance. Second, it associates the negative stimulus with you, not with the location or item they were messing with. You don't want your fur baby to be afraid of you, right?

You also want to make sure you aren't accidentally reinforcing bad behaviors. For example, if your cat comes to you in bed and wakes you up whining, if you get up and feed them or play with them, then guess what? You've just trained them that, if they want food or entertainment at 4am, they can wake you up and get it.

Finally, don't forget to be consistent. Training requires consistency until the behavior is engrained, which is the only way you can get it to stick. If you're trying to dissuade them from a behavior you aren't always around to witness, find some way to handle it when you can't be there to do it.

Now, let's move on to the ways to discipline a cat effectively.

1: Learn What Reinforcement Means

First of all, it's worth knowing what reinforcement is. In behavior analysis and psychology, there's a four-quadrant grid for training. You have Reinforcement versus Punishment, and you have Positive versus Negative.

• Positive Reinforcement: Adding something pleasant or beneficial to encourage a desired behavior.
• Positive Punishment: Adding something unpleasant or detrimental to discourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Reinforcement: Removing something unpleasant or detrimental to encourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Punishment: Removing something pleasant or beneficial to discourage a desired behavior.

Most of these only work when you're using them on a being capable of the higher levels of thought necessary to draw disconnected conclusions.

Positive Punishment, also simply called punishment, doesn't work on animals because they tend to learn the wrong things from it; all they know is that they're having something unpleasant happen to them, and they react accordingly. Hitting a misbehaving dog, spraying a cat with a water bottle, and other forms of punishment are ineffective.

Negative Reinforcement can work, but it isn't ideal. For example, you might have an unpleasant buzzing noise throughout your house that turns off when your cat does what they're supposed to. They'll learn how to do that to remove the noise, but while the noise is around, they'll be increasingly stressed out. This is an effective method for animal handling professionals to capture or socialize stray and feral cats, but it's not appropriate for home training.

Negative Punishment, meanwhile, is the removal of something nice to punish your cat for their misdeeds. This works on children because they're capable of understanding something like "because you got in a fight, you don't get dessert tonight." The abstract disconnect between punishment and cause doesn't work on animals, who don't have that kind of reasoning. This can work in certain circumstances, such as ending playtime if your cat bites you during play. It's of very limited use, however.

All of this leaves you with one option: positive reinforcement. In other words, you aren't punishing the bad behavior; you're being vigilant and rewarding when your cat stops the behavior. I've written about this concept before in training a cat not to scratch the furniture, which you can read about here.

2: Keep High-Value Treats on Hand

Since you're using a positive reinforcement method, you need something that is valuable enough to be an encouragement, and that usually means high-value treats. Whether it's a few licks of one of those pouches of tasty goo, a single small bit of tasty meat, or specially designed cat treats, you need something they'll pay attention to and associate as a reward.

It's important to keep some of these on hand when you're trying to reward behaviors. The longer a delay there is between behavior and treat, the less likely your cat is to associate the two, so the less effective it's going to be.

Note that the reward doesn't have to be a dedicated cat treat. A crunchy bit of treat works fine for some cats, but other cats aren't as motivated by it. Maybe a piece of shrimp, a bit of canned cheese, or even a new and interesting (or catnip-infused) toy will be a better option. Learn what your cat likes and use that.

3: Try Mat Training

Mat training is a combination of clicker and reward based on a specific location. You have a "mat" (which can be a small rug, a specific bit of box, or just a designated spot in the room) and a clicker that makes a specific noise used for training. Here's a video demonstration.

Your first goal is to train your cat to associate the mat with a treat and the clicker with both the mat and the treat. Basically, go stand near the mat location. Encourage your cat to come over and, when they're in the right spot, give them a treat. When you give them the treat, use the clicker so the noise is always there in mind when they're in that spot and have a treat.

The first goal is to get to the point where you can click the clicker, and your cat will head to the mat for a treat. Don't give them the treat anywhere else; it's specifically about that location. Also, don't give them a treat just for going there; make sure it's in response to the clicker.

Once they're trained this way, you can use the clicker to discourage a behavior you don't like. When your cat is, for example, about to scratch the furniture or jump up on the counters, use the click and give them the treat when they abandon their original plan for the treat. If you do this every time they're about to engage in a behavior you don't like, they'll eventually stop.

4: Line Counters with Foil

A good way to deter cats from behaviors like jumping up on the counters is to line the counters with aluminum foil. When they jump up, several things happen. First, they see motion (their own reflection) that they didn't expect, which startles them. When they land, the unexpected texture and sudden noise of landing on foil disrupts them and usually scares them off the counter. You can see it in action all over the internet in videos like this one. Of course, as you can see in that video, it doesn't always work. Make sure you're only using it for this specific kind of behavior, and don't use it on the floor to randomly prank your cat. This makes it less effective.

Make sure you have a cat tree or other places they can perch nearby. Cats like to be up high and able to observe, and discouraging them from all high places likely won't work.

5: Put Double-Sided Tape on Furniture

Another way to discourage a specific behavior is to put double-sided tape on pieces of furniture your fur baby is likely to try to scratch. When they reach up to scratch, their paws will end up on the sticky tape, and they'll pull back, unhappy with it.

Make sure you have a good, solid scratching post nearby for them to use. Cats are going to scratch, it's part of their nature and is just something cat parents need to deal with. Your goal is to redirect it, not prevent it.

6: Consider a Motion Air Sprayer

Motion-activated air sprayers detect motion and release a brief jet of air. That's all they do. They aren't aimed at the cat – and indeed, you should position them so it can't.

The goal is the noise of the hiss of air resembles a warning hiss from another cat or animal and will startle and dissuade your cat from whatever they were doing. These are best used as another form of countertop deterrent and not as anything manual.

Learn the Root Cause of Bad Behaviors

One thing to consider, as well, is that many bad behaviors are not caused by your cat wanting to lash out or spite you or just to cause trouble; they have other root causes. For example:

• Maybe your cat is opting to scratch the furniture because, when they try to scratch their scratching post, it wobbles. Or maybe the scratching post is splintered, and they've hurt their paws on it before.
• Maybe your cat is jumping on the counters because it's the highest place they can get to, and they don't have anywhere else they can go to survey their domain.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because it's full and dirty, or another cat is bullying them and using it as their territory.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because they're sick and stressed and can't help themselves. UTIs, stomach bugs, parasites, and other infections can all cause litter issues.

In these cases, all of the training in the world is unlikely to help because it doesn't solve the root issue. You need to pay attention to the behaviors themselves and think about why they're happening so you can solve the root issue for a happier, healthier fur baby.

Training a cat is all about working with them to encourage the behaviors you want to see and distract or redirect them from the behaviors you don't. It takes time, dedication, and consistency, but it can be done. Trust me, your fur baby will thank you!

After reading today's article, did you have any questions? As always, I'm more than happy to help fellow pet parents however I can, so be sure to leave your questions in the comments section down below!

Many people have an impression of cats as aloof, independent, free-thinking creatures that only listen to you as their parent when they feel like it. And sure, they're not all that likely to come when called, and it's pretty rare that you can teach them command-based tricks like playing dead or rolling over. But that doesn't mean they can't be trained. In fact, training a cat – from litter box training to staying off the counters in the kitchen – is a critical part of ensuring you have a lovable, well-behaved, and safe furball in your home.

A key part of training is discipline, and while most training should be using positive reinforcement, there's room for discouragement as well. The trick is, you need to do it right. There are a lot of wrong ways to try to discipline a cat, many of which will stress out your fur baby, leading to worse behavior and even health problems.

So, how do you discipline a cat firmly enough to reinforce the right behaviors and discourage the wrong ones but gentle enough to avoid damaging your relationship, discouraging the wrong things, or stressing them out? Here are half a dozen tips and techniques I've pulled from my own experience and plenty of cat training resources.

How NOT to Discipline a Cat

First, let's start with what NOT to do.

First of all, no yelling, screaming, shouting, or lecturing your cat. Your cat is not a human, and as much as they are a beloved member of your family, they are not cognitively capable of understanding pretty much anything you say. They don't have language! When a cat (or a dog, or pretty much any other animal) responds to commands, it's not because they know what the words mean. It's because they recognize a pattern of sounds and associate it with a desired behavior – even if that behavior is "stop."

Don't get me wrong, it can be fun to lightheartedly lecture your cat, but you have to know it's meaningless for the cat. It's just cathartic for you. Screaming or yelling, though, that's right out. Shouting stresses out your poor fur baby, and that's not going to help anything.

Second, never try to get physical with your cat. For one thing, a swat or slap or shake or anything else isn't going to create the kind of association you want to create. Instead, it's just going to make your cat wary of you, or even scared of you, or scared of people in general. Worse, if your cat really isn't going to take it, well, only one of you has knives attached to your fingers, and it isn't you. Trust me; they win.

You also want to avoid things like spraying your cat with water, using a loud noise, or other kind of deterrent. There are two reasons for this. First, you need to do it every time your cat performs the behavior, and since you need to do things like go to work or sleep, you won't be around to catch every possible chance. Second, it associates the negative stimulus with you, not with the location or item they were messing with. You don't want your fur baby to be afraid of you, right?

You also want to make sure you aren't accidentally reinforcing bad behaviors. For example, if your cat comes to you in bed and wakes you up whining, if you get up and feed them or play with them, then guess what? You've just trained them that, if they want food or entertainment at 4am, they can wake you up and get it.

Finally, don't forget to be consistent. Training requires consistency until the behavior is engrained, which is the only way you can get it to stick. If you're trying to dissuade them from a behavior you aren't always around to witness, find some way to handle it when you can't be there to do it.

Now, let's move on to the ways to discipline a cat effectively.

1: Learn What Reinforcement Means

First of all, it's worth knowing what reinforcement is. In behavior analysis and psychology, there's a four-quadrant grid for training. You have Reinforcement versus Punishment, and you have Positive versus Negative.

• Positive Reinforcement: Adding something pleasant or beneficial to encourage a desired behavior.
• Positive Punishment: Adding something unpleasant or detrimental to discourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Reinforcement: Removing something unpleasant or detrimental to encourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Punishment: Removing something pleasant or beneficial to discourage a desired behavior.

Most of these only work when you're using them on a being capable of the higher levels of thought necessary to draw disconnected conclusions.

Positive Punishment, also simply called punishment, doesn't work on animals because they tend to learn the wrong things from it; all they know is that they're having something unpleasant happen to them, and they react accordingly. Hitting a misbehaving dog, spraying a cat with a water bottle, and other forms of punishment are ineffective.

Negative Reinforcement can work, but it isn't ideal. For example, you might have an unpleasant buzzing noise throughout your house that turns off when your cat does what they're supposed to. They'll learn how to do that to remove the noise, but while the noise is around, they'll be increasingly stressed out. This is an effective method for animal handling professionals to capture or socialize stray and feral cats, but it's not appropriate for home training.

Negative Punishment, meanwhile, is the removal of something nice to punish your cat for their misdeeds. This works on children because they're capable of understanding something like "because you got in a fight, you don't get dessert tonight." The abstract disconnect between punishment and cause doesn't work on animals, who don't have that kind of reasoning. This can work in certain circumstances, such as ending playtime if your cat bites you during play. It's of very limited use, however.

All of this leaves you with one option: positive reinforcement. In other words, you aren't punishing the bad behavior; you're being vigilant and rewarding when your cat stops the behavior. I've written about this concept before in training a cat not to scratch the furniture, which you can read about here.

2: Keep High-Value Treats on Hand

Since you're using a positive reinforcement method, you need something that is valuable enough to be an encouragement, and that usually means high-value treats. Whether it's a few licks of one of those pouches of tasty goo, a single small bit of tasty meat, or specially designed cat treats, you need something they'll pay attention to and associate as a reward.

It's important to keep some of these on hand when you're trying to reward behaviors. The longer a delay there is between behavior and treat, the less likely your cat is to associate the two, so the less effective it's going to be.

Note that the reward doesn't have to be a dedicated cat treat. A crunchy bit of treat works fine for some cats, but other cats aren't as motivated by it. Maybe a piece of shrimp, a bit of canned cheese, or even a new and interesting (or catnip-infused) toy will be a better option. Learn what your cat likes and use that.

3: Try Mat Training

Mat training is a combination of clicker and reward based on a specific location. You have a "mat" (which can be a small rug, a specific bit of box, or just a designated spot in the room) and a clicker that makes a specific noise used for training. Here's a video demonstration.

Your first goal is to train your cat to associate the mat with a treat and the clicker with both the mat and the treat. Basically, go stand near the mat location. Encourage your cat to come over and, when they're in the right spot, give them a treat. When you give them the treat, use the clicker so the noise is always there in mind when they're in that spot and have a treat.

The first goal is to get to the point where you can click the clicker, and your cat will head to the mat for a treat. Don't give them the treat anywhere else; it's specifically about that location. Also, don't give them a treat just for going there; make sure it's in response to the clicker.

Once they're trained this way, you can use the clicker to discourage a behavior you don't like. When your cat is, for example, about to scratch the furniture or jump up on the counters, use the click and give them the treat when they abandon their original plan for the treat. If you do this every time they're about to engage in a behavior you don't like, they'll eventually stop.

4: Line Counters with Foil

A good way to deter cats from behaviors like jumping up on the counters is to line the counters with aluminum foil. When they jump up, several things happen. First, they see motion (their own reflection) that they didn't expect, which startles them. When they land, the unexpected texture and sudden noise of landing on foil disrupts them and usually scares them off the counter. You can see it in action all over the internet in videos like this one. Of course, as you can see in that video, it doesn't always work. Make sure you're only using it for this specific kind of behavior, and don't use it on the floor to randomly prank your cat. This makes it less effective.

Make sure you have a cat tree or other places they can perch nearby. Cats like to be up high and able to observe, and discouraging them from all high places likely won't work.

5: Put Double-Sided Tape on Furniture

Another way to discourage a specific behavior is to put double-sided tape on pieces of furniture your fur baby is likely to try to scratch. When they reach up to scratch, their paws will end up on the sticky tape, and they'll pull back, unhappy with it.

Make sure you have a good, solid scratching post nearby for them to use. Cats are going to scratch, it's part of their nature and is just something cat parents need to deal with. Your goal is to redirect it, not prevent it.

6: Consider a Motion Air Sprayer

Motion-activated air sprayers detect motion and release a brief jet of air. That's all they do. They aren't aimed at the cat – and indeed, you should position them so it can't.

The goal is the noise of the hiss of air resembles a warning hiss from another cat or animal and will startle and dissuade your cat from whatever they were doing. These are best used as another form of countertop deterrent and not as anything manual.

Learn the Root Cause of Bad Behaviors

One thing to consider, as well, is that many bad behaviors are not caused by your cat wanting to lash out or spite you or just to cause trouble; they have other root causes. For example:

• Maybe your cat is opting to scratch the furniture because, when they try to scratch their scratching post, it wobbles. Or maybe the scratching post is splintered, and they've hurt their paws on it before.
• Maybe your cat is jumping on the counters because it's the highest place they can get to, and they don't have anywhere else they can go to survey their domain.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because it's full and dirty, or another cat is bullying them and using it as their territory.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because they're sick and stressed and can't help themselves. UTIs, stomach bugs, parasites, and other infections can all cause litter issues.

In these cases, all of the training in the world is unlikely to help because it doesn't solve the root issue. You need to pay attention to the behaviors themselves and think about why they're happening so you can solve the root issue for a happier, healthier fur baby.

Training a cat is all about working with them to encourage the behaviors you want to see and distract or redirect them from the behaviors you don't. It takes time, dedication, and consistency, but it can be done. Trust me, your fur baby will thank you!

After reading today's article, did you have any questions? As always, I'm more than happy to help fellow pet parents however I can, so be sure to leave your questions in the comments section down below!

Many people have an impression of cats as aloof, independent, free-thinking creatures that only listen to you as their parent when they feel like it. And sure, they're not all that likely to come when called, and it's pretty rare that you can teach them command-based tricks like playing dead or rolling over. But that doesn't mean they can't be trained. In fact, training a cat – from litter box training to staying off the counters in the kitchen – is a critical part of ensuring you have a lovable, well-behaved, and safe furball in your home.

A key part of training is discipline, and while most training should be using positive reinforcement, there's room for discouragement as well. The trick is, you need to do it right. There are a lot of wrong ways to try to discipline a cat, many of which will stress out your fur baby, leading to worse behavior and even health problems.

So, how do you discipline a cat firmly enough to reinforce the right behaviors and discourage the wrong ones but gentle enough to avoid damaging your relationship, discouraging the wrong things, or stressing them out? Here are half a dozen tips and techniques I've pulled from my own experience and plenty of cat training resources.

How NOT to Discipline a Cat

First, let's start with what NOT to do.

First of all, no yelling, screaming, shouting, or lecturing your cat. Your cat is not a human, and as much as they are a beloved member of your family, they are not cognitively capable of understanding pretty much anything you say. They don't have language! When a cat (or a dog, or pretty much any other animal) responds to commands, it's not because they know what the words mean. It's because they recognize a pattern of sounds and associate it with a desired behavior – even if that behavior is "stop."

Don't get me wrong, it can be fun to lightheartedly lecture your cat, but you have to know it's meaningless for the cat. It's just cathartic for you. Screaming or yelling, though, that's right out. Shouting stresses out your poor fur baby, and that's not going to help anything.

Second, never try to get physical with your cat. For one thing, a swat or slap or shake or anything else isn't going to create the kind of association you want to create. Instead, it's just going to make your cat wary of you, or even scared of you, or scared of people in general. Worse, if your cat really isn't going to take it, well, only one of you has knives attached to your fingers, and it isn't you. Trust me; they win.

You also want to avoid things like spraying your cat with water, using a loud noise, or other kind of deterrent. There are two reasons for this. First, you need to do it every time your cat performs the behavior, and since you need to do things like go to work or sleep, you won't be around to catch every possible chance. Second, it associates the negative stimulus with you, not with the location or item they were messing with. You don't want your fur baby to be afraid of you, right?

You also want to make sure you aren't accidentally reinforcing bad behaviors. For example, if your cat comes to you in bed and wakes you up whining, if you get up and feed them or play with them, then guess what? You've just trained them that, if they want food or entertainment at 4am, they can wake you up and get it.

Finally, don't forget to be consistent. Training requires consistency until the behavior is engrained, which is the only way you can get it to stick. If you're trying to dissuade them from a behavior you aren't always around to witness, find some way to handle it when you can't be there to do it.

Now, let's move on to the ways to discipline a cat effectively.

1: Learn What Reinforcement Means

First of all, it's worth knowing what reinforcement is. In behavior analysis and psychology, there's a four-quadrant grid for training. You have Reinforcement versus Punishment, and you have Positive versus Negative.

• Positive Reinforcement: Adding something pleasant or beneficial to encourage a desired behavior.
• Positive Punishment: Adding something unpleasant or detrimental to discourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Reinforcement: Removing something unpleasant or detrimental to encourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Punishment: Removing something pleasant or beneficial to discourage a desired behavior.

Most of these only work when you're using them on a being capable of the higher levels of thought necessary to draw disconnected conclusions.

Positive Punishment, also simply called punishment, doesn't work on animals because they tend to learn the wrong things from it; all they know is that they're having something unpleasant happen to them, and they react accordingly. Hitting a misbehaving dog, spraying a cat with a water bottle, and other forms of punishment are ineffective.

Negative Reinforcement can work, but it isn't ideal. For example, you might have an unpleasant buzzing noise throughout your house that turns off when your cat does what they're supposed to. They'll learn how to do that to remove the noise, but while the noise is around, they'll be increasingly stressed out. This is an effective method for animal handling professionals to capture or socialize stray and feral cats, but it's not appropriate for home training.

Negative Punishment, meanwhile, is the removal of something nice to punish your cat for their misdeeds. This works on children because they're capable of understanding something like "because you got in a fight, you don't get dessert tonight." The abstract disconnect between punishment and cause doesn't work on animals, who don't have that kind of reasoning. This can work in certain circumstances, such as ending playtime if your cat bites you during play. It's of very limited use, however.

All of this leaves you with one option: positive reinforcement. In other words, you aren't punishing the bad behavior; you're being vigilant and rewarding when your cat stops the behavior. I've written about this concept before in training a cat not to scratch the furniture, which you can read about here.

2: Keep High-Value Treats on Hand

Since you're using a positive reinforcement method, you need something that is valuable enough to be an encouragement, and that usually means high-value treats. Whether it's a few licks of one of those pouches of tasty goo, a single small bit of tasty meat, or specially designed cat treats, you need something they'll pay attention to and associate as a reward.

It's important to keep some of these on hand when you're trying to reward behaviors. The longer a delay there is between behavior and treat, the less likely your cat is to associate the two, so the less effective it's going to be.

Note that the reward doesn't have to be a dedicated cat treat. A crunchy bit of treat works fine for some cats, but other cats aren't as motivated by it. Maybe a piece of shrimp, a bit of canned cheese, or even a new and interesting (or catnip-infused) toy will be a better option. Learn what your cat likes and use that.

3: Try Mat Training

Mat training is a combination of clicker and reward based on a specific location. You have a "mat" (which can be a small rug, a specific bit of box, or just a designated spot in the room) and a clicker that makes a specific noise used for training. Here's a video demonstration.

Your first goal is to train your cat to associate the mat with a treat and the clicker with both the mat and the treat. Basically, go stand near the mat location. Encourage your cat to come over and, when they're in the right spot, give them a treat. When you give them the treat, use the clicker so the noise is always there in mind when they're in that spot and have a treat.

The first goal is to get to the point where you can click the clicker, and your cat will head to the mat for a treat. Don't give them the treat anywhere else; it's specifically about that location. Also, don't give them a treat just for going there; make sure it's in response to the clicker.

Once they're trained this way, you can use the clicker to discourage a behavior you don't like. When your cat is, for example, about to scratch the furniture or jump up on the counters, use the click and give them the treat when they abandon their original plan for the treat. If you do this every time they're about to engage in a behavior you don't like, they'll eventually stop.

4: Line Counters with Foil

A good way to deter cats from behaviors like jumping up on the counters is to line the counters with aluminum foil. When they jump up, several things happen. First, they see motion (their own reflection) that they didn't expect, which startles them. When they land, the unexpected texture and sudden noise of landing on foil disrupts them and usually scares them off the counter. You can see it in action all over the internet in videos like this one. Of course, as you can see in that video, it doesn't always work. Make sure you're only using it for this specific kind of behavior, and don't use it on the floor to randomly prank your cat. This makes it less effective.

Make sure you have a cat tree or other places they can perch nearby. Cats like to be up high and able to observe, and discouraging them from all high places likely won't work.

5: Put Double-Sided Tape on Furniture

Another way to discourage a specific behavior is to put double-sided tape on pieces of furniture your fur baby is likely to try to scratch. When they reach up to scratch, their paws will end up on the sticky tape, and they'll pull back, unhappy with it.

Make sure you have a good, solid scratching post nearby for them to use. Cats are going to scratch, it's part of their nature and is just something cat parents need to deal with. Your goal is to redirect it, not prevent it.

6: Consider a Motion Air Sprayer

Motion-activated air sprayers detect motion and release a brief jet of air. That's all they do. They aren't aimed at the cat – and indeed, you should position them so it can't.

The goal is the noise of the hiss of air resembles a warning hiss from another cat or animal and will startle and dissuade your cat from whatever they were doing. These are best used as another form of countertop deterrent and not as anything manual.

Learn the Root Cause of Bad Behaviors

One thing to consider, as well, is that many bad behaviors are not caused by your cat wanting to lash out or spite you or just to cause trouble; they have other root causes. For example:

• Maybe your cat is opting to scratch the furniture because, when they try to scratch their scratching post, it wobbles. Or maybe the scratching post is splintered, and they've hurt their paws on it before.
• Maybe your cat is jumping on the counters because it's the highest place they can get to, and they don't have anywhere else they can go to survey their domain.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because it's full and dirty, or another cat is bullying them and using it as their territory.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because they're sick and stressed and can't help themselves. UTIs, stomach bugs, parasites, and other infections can all cause litter issues.

In these cases, all of the training in the world is unlikely to help because it doesn't solve the root issue. You need to pay attention to the behaviors themselves and think about why they're happening so you can solve the root issue for a happier, healthier fur baby.

Training a cat is all about working with them to encourage the behaviors you want to see and distract or redirect them from the behaviors you don't. It takes time, dedication, and consistency, but it can be done. Trust me, your fur baby will thank you!

After reading today's article, did you have any questions? As always, I'm more than happy to help fellow pet parents however I can, so be sure to leave your questions in the comments section down below!

Many people have an impression of cats as aloof, independent, free-thinking creatures that only listen to you as their parent when they feel like it. And sure, they're not all that likely to come when called, and it's pretty rare that you can teach them command-based tricks like playing dead or rolling over. But that doesn't mean they can't be trained. In fact, training a cat – from litter box training to staying off the counters in the kitchen – is a critical part of ensuring you have a lovable, well-behaved, and safe furball in your home.

A key part of training is discipline, and while most training should be using positive reinforcement, there's room for discouragement as well. The trick is, you need to do it right. There are a lot of wrong ways to try to discipline a cat, many of which will stress out your fur baby, leading to worse behavior and even health problems.

So, how do you discipline a cat firmly enough to reinforce the right behaviors and discourage the wrong ones but gentle enough to avoid damaging your relationship, discouraging the wrong things, or stressing them out? Here are half a dozen tips and techniques I've pulled from my own experience and plenty of cat training resources.

How NOT to Discipline a Cat

First, let's start with what NOT to do.

First of all, no yelling, screaming, shouting, or lecturing your cat. Your cat is not a human, and as much as they are a beloved member of your family, they are not cognitively capable of understanding pretty much anything you say. They don't have language! When a cat (or a dog, or pretty much any other animal) responds to commands, it's not because they know what the words mean. It's because they recognize a pattern of sounds and associate it with a desired behavior – even if that behavior is "stop."

Don't get me wrong, it can be fun to lightheartedly lecture your cat, but you have to know it's meaningless for the cat. It's just cathartic for you. Screaming or yelling, though, that's right out. Shouting stresses out your poor fur baby, and that's not going to help anything.

Second, never try to get physical with your cat. For one thing, a swat or slap or shake or anything else isn't going to create the kind of association you want to create. Instead, it's just going to make your cat wary of you, or even scared of you, or scared of people in general. Worse, if your cat really isn't going to take it, well, only one of you has knives attached to your fingers, and it isn't you. Trust me; they win.

You also want to avoid things like spraying your cat with water, using a loud noise, or other kind of deterrent. There are two reasons for this. First, you need to do it every time your cat performs the behavior, and since you need to do things like go to work or sleep, you won't be around to catch every possible chance. Second, it associates the negative stimulus with you, not with the location or item they were messing with. You don't want your fur baby to be afraid of you, right?

You also want to make sure you aren't accidentally reinforcing bad behaviors. For example, if your cat comes to you in bed and wakes you up whining, if you get up and feed them or play with them, then guess what? You've just trained them that, if they want food or entertainment at 4am, they can wake you up and get it.

Finally, don't forget to be consistent. Training requires consistency until the behavior is engrained, which is the only way you can get it to stick. If you're trying to dissuade them from a behavior you aren't always around to witness, find some way to handle it when you can't be there to do it.

Now, let's move on to the ways to discipline a cat effectively.

1: Learn What Reinforcement Means

First of all, it's worth knowing what reinforcement is. In behavior analysis and psychology, there's a four-quadrant grid for training. You have Reinforcement versus Punishment, and you have Positive versus Negative.

• Positive Reinforcement: Adding something pleasant or beneficial to encourage a desired behavior.
• Positive Punishment: Adding something unpleasant or detrimental to discourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Reinforcement: Removing something unpleasant or detrimental to encourage a desired behavior.
• Negative Punishment: Removing something pleasant or beneficial to discourage a desired behavior.

Most of these only work when you're using them on a being capable of the higher levels of thought necessary to draw disconnected conclusions.

Positive Punishment, also simply called punishment, doesn't work on animals because they tend to learn the wrong things from it; all they know is that they're having something unpleasant happen to them, and they react accordingly. Hitting a misbehaving dog, spraying a cat with a water bottle, and other forms of punishment are ineffective.

Negative Reinforcement can work, but it isn't ideal. For example, you might have an unpleasant buzzing noise throughout your house that turns off when your cat does what they're supposed to. They'll learn how to do that to remove the noise, but while the noise is around, they'll be increasingly stressed out. This is an effective method for animal handling professionals to capture or socialize stray and feral cats, but it's not appropriate for home training.

Negative Punishment, meanwhile, is the removal of something nice to punish your cat for their misdeeds. This works on children because they're capable of understanding something like "because you got in a fight, you don't get dessert tonight." The abstract disconnect between punishment and cause doesn't work on animals, who don't have that kind of reasoning. This can work in certain circumstances, such as ending playtime if your cat bites you during play. It's of very limited use, however.

All of this leaves you with one option: positive reinforcement. In other words, you aren't punishing the bad behavior; you're being vigilant and rewarding when your cat stops the behavior. I've written about this concept before in training a cat not to scratch the furniture, which you can read about here.

2: Keep High-Value Treats on Hand

Since you're using a positive reinforcement method, you need something that is valuable enough to be an encouragement, and that usually means high-value treats. Whether it's a few licks of one of those pouches of tasty goo, a single small bit of tasty meat, or specially designed cat treats, you need something they'll pay attention to and associate as a reward.

It's important to keep some of these on hand when you're trying to reward behaviors. The longer a delay there is between behavior and treat, the less likely your cat is to associate the two, so the less effective it's going to be.

Note that the reward doesn't have to be a dedicated cat treat. A crunchy bit of treat works fine for some cats, but other cats aren't as motivated by it. Maybe a piece of shrimp, a bit of canned cheese, or even a new and interesting (or catnip-infused) toy will be a better option. Learn what your cat likes and use that.

3: Try Mat Training

Mat training is a combination of clicker and reward based on a specific location. You have a "mat" (which can be a small rug, a specific bit of box, or just a designated spot in the room) and a clicker that makes a specific noise used for training. Here's a video demonstration.

Your first goal is to train your cat to associate the mat with a treat and the clicker with both the mat and the treat. Basically, go stand near the mat location. Encourage your cat to come over and, when they're in the right spot, give them a treat. When you give them the treat, use the clicker so the noise is always there in mind when they're in that spot and have a treat.

The first goal is to get to the point where you can click the clicker, and your cat will head to the mat for a treat. Don't give them the treat anywhere else; it's specifically about that location. Also, don't give them a treat just for going there; make sure it's in response to the clicker.

Once they're trained this way, you can use the clicker to discourage a behavior you don't like. When your cat is, for example, about to scratch the furniture or jump up on the counters, use the click and give them the treat when they abandon their original plan for the treat. If you do this every time they're about to engage in a behavior you don't like, they'll eventually stop.

4: Line Counters with Foil

A good way to deter cats from behaviors like jumping up on the counters is to line the counters with aluminum foil. When they jump up, several things happen. First, they see motion (their own reflection) that they didn't expect, which startles them. When they land, the unexpected texture and sudden noise of landing on foil disrupts them and usually scares them off the counter. You can see it in action all over the internet in videos like this one. Of course, as you can see in that video, it doesn't always work. Make sure you're only using it for this specific kind of behavior, and don't use it on the floor to randomly prank your cat. This makes it less effective.

Make sure you have a cat tree or other places they can perch nearby. Cats like to be up high and able to observe, and discouraging them from all high places likely won't work.

5: Put Double-Sided Tape on Furniture

Another way to discourage a specific behavior is to put double-sided tape on pieces of furniture your fur baby is likely to try to scratch. When they reach up to scratch, their paws will end up on the sticky tape, and they'll pull back, unhappy with it.

Make sure you have a good, solid scratching post nearby for them to use. Cats are going to scratch, it's part of their nature and is just something cat parents need to deal with. Your goal is to redirect it, not prevent it.

6: Consider a Motion Air Sprayer

Motion-activated air sprayers detect motion and release a brief jet of air. That's all they do. They aren't aimed at the cat – and indeed, you should position them so it can't.

The goal is the noise of the hiss of air resembles a warning hiss from another cat or animal and will startle and dissuade your cat from whatever they were doing. These are best used as another form of countertop deterrent and not as anything manual.

Learn the Root Cause of Bad Behaviors

One thing to consider, as well, is that many bad behaviors are not caused by your cat wanting to lash out or spite you or just to cause trouble; they have other root causes. For example:

• Maybe your cat is opting to scratch the furniture because, when they try to scratch their scratching post, it wobbles. Or maybe the scratching post is splintered, and they've hurt their paws on it before.
• Maybe your cat is jumping on the counters because it's the highest place they can get to, and they don't have anywhere else they can go to survey their domain.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because it's full and dirty, or another cat is bullying them and using it as their territory.
• Maybe your cat is missing the litter box because they're sick and stressed and can't help themselves. UTIs, stomach bugs, parasites, and other infections can all cause litter issues.

In these cases, all of the training in the world is unlikely to help because it doesn't solve the root issue. You need to pay attention to the behaviors themselves and think about why they're happening so you can solve the root issue for a happier, healthier fur baby.

Training a cat is all about working with them to encourage the behaviors you want to see and distract or redirect them from the behaviors you don't. It takes time, dedication, and consistency, but it can be done. Trust me, your fur baby will thank you!

After reading today's article, did you have any questions? As always, I'm more than happy to help fellow pet parents however I can, so be sure to leave your questions in the comments section down below!

Among the many different kinds of vocalizations a dog can make is the growl. Growls aren't necessarily all bad, but they can be off-putting and, for many people, enough to warn them away. A growling dog could be a dangerous dog, and for anyone who doesn't know how to listen to their language, there's no real difference between growls. And, for that matter, sometimes the difference is in the body language that accompanies the growl.

If you have an unruly or poorly socialized puppy, or you're trying to help reign in a lost or stray dog, or you're just concerned about a neighbor's pooch that doesn't seem to like anyone, knowing what those growls mean can be very important. There are eight main kinds of growls a dog can make, so let's go through them.

The "I'm Scared" Growl

First up is one of the more common growls, particularly if you're dealing with a stray dog or a dog that has been abused or neglected. These growls are long, low, rumbling growls made with a closed mouth. The pooch in question won't be having a good time, that's for sure. When a dog is scared, most of the time, their first instinct is to run and hide. But, when you're trying to contain a dog that keeps escaping or has been lost for who knows how long, you're going to try to corner it, and that's when this kind of growl shows up.

Dogs with fearful growls are warning you that they're uncomfortable and scared and hoping that the growl will warn you off and keep you away. They may escalate to other, more aggressive kinds of growls if you approach them. This can include snapping, barking, and more angry growls, depending on the dog.

Body language is important here as well. A dog making this kind of growl is probably also cowering, presenting their side, hunched over, and maybe even shaking. They'll keep their mouth closed and might be afraid to make eye contact as well. They're trying to keep the situation from escalating, but as a cornered animal, they don't have many options, so they're avoiding the things dogs use as threat displays, like bared teeth and staring.

Sometimes, your doggo might make these kinds of growls when they're leashed up, and you're bringing them into a new situation. Dogs with anxiety and self-confidence issues tend to feel cornered when they're on a leash and are confronted with whatever is scaring them, be it a vet, a stranger, another dog, or something else.

The "I'm Angry" Growl

Angry growls are the most terrifying growls a dog can make. They're not just a noise; they're a threat. Anything that persists in approaching them or their territory is liable to be in for a world of hurt. These kinds of growls trigger something primal, even in us, and they hearken back to the primordial period when the only thing standing between that angry, hungry wolf and your tender flesh might be a campfire.

Angry growls are also fairly familiar to all of us because they're the growls you hear dubbed over wolves and angry, mean dogs in all kinds of movies and TV shows. They're a sign of an aggressive animal ready to lunge and attack.

In a way, anger growls are similar to scared growls. They're long and low and rumbly. The difference is that a dog making these noises is not cowering, hiding, or trying to run. A dog making these growls is standing its ground, preparing to lunge, or straining against a leash. The growls may be interspersed with sharp barks. In terms of body language, the dog is tense, aimed at you, and baring their teeth in a clear threat display.

No matter how much you love animals, and no matter how much you're used to animals loving you, a dog making these kinds of noises is a threat. Keep yourself safe, don't approach, and if necessary, put a barrier between you and the dog, and call a professional to handle the situation if it's the kind of situation that needs handling.

The Anxious and Defensive Growl

This growl is best summed up with a demonstration, helpfully provided by NatGeo here. This growl is a combination of two things: anxiety and defensiveness. In the case of the example above, the dog is not anxious and defensive itself. Rather, as a faithful companion of his parent, he's feeling her nervousness and reacting to anything nearby in a defensive manner. He's anxious, yes, for her, not for himself.

You can see it in the way the barks and growls aren't really aggressive or angry, like an anger growl, but the dog himself isn't cowering and trying to hide the way he might be if he was truly scared. It's all based on the energy of his pet parent, and that's why even a brief demonstration in a two-minute video shows how a change in demeanor can change the attitude.

Of course, not all dogs with anxiety growls are going to be so easily placated. Many times, an anxious dog is anxious about a lot of different things. They might be anxious because you moved the space their crate was in. They might be anxious because your hours have changed or you got hurt. They might be anxious because they're in a strange location when you travel, or because you changed their food, or because a neighbor moved in and they have a new dog, and while the two have never met, they can smell each other.

Anxious growls are usually short, and while they're low-pitched, they're more like growly barks than longer growls. It's kind of a cross between growling and barking and is often accompanied by bodily flailing; your pooch isn't really sure what is making them uncomfortable, just that something is, and the growl-barks make it feel a little better, if only for a moment.

The Frustration Growl

If an anxiety growl is a growl at the world for the injustices it heaps upon us, a frustration growl is the same thing, directed at the source of that injustice.

Frustration growls are one of the most common kinds of growls and vocalizations a dog will make. You probably hear them all the time, and they're always directed at something. Maybe you gave them a puzzle feeder, and they can't get the last few kibbles out, so they're growling at it. Maybe they're trying to make themselves comfortable, but the corner of the pillow keeps popping back up, so they growl at it. Maybe you've been playing fetch for an hour, and you're getting tired and stopping tossing the ball, so they growl at it and you because obviously they can't throw it themselves.

Frustration growling is almost in the same vein as an anger growl, but even your dog knows how unreasonable it would be to get angry and growl at an inanimate object. It'd be ridiculous! Frustration growls are two things: an expression of emotion that makes them feel a little better and an indication that they have a problem they can't solve themselves.

Unfortunately, frustration growls are often rewarded; when your pooch is growling in frustration at some problem, there's a decent chance you'll notice and solve the problem. In their fuzzy little minds, they'll associate problem-solving with growling.

Unfortunately, this kind of growling can be a problem; if your pooch growls like this in public, other people or other dogs might misunderstand why they're growling. This can set off a chain reaction of, well, reactions and can even lead to conflicts, though often those conflicts don't last too long.

Play Growling

While frustration growling is very common, the actual most common growl you're likely to hear out of an otherwise well-behaved pup is play growling. Play growling comes up between dogs playing with one another and dogs playing with you. If you've ever grabbed one end of a knotted rope and played a rousing game of tug-of-war with your pooch, you've almost definitely heard play growling.

Play growling is definitely playing, and it's hard to misconstrue it. It can include bared teeth, posturing, and almost aggressive-seeming displays, but it's also accompanied by happy body language and posture, perky ears, a wagging tail, and none of the signs of real aggression.

These growls are also more like grunts and, sometimes, even just like ragged breathing. Different dogs have different kinds of play growls, too. It's usually higher pitched and can stray almost into whines or barks and chuffs, and it's breathy as well.

Growls of this kind are messages as well. If you're playing with your pooch and they bow down, front low and rear high, making a brief growl while they look up at you, they're asking for a chase, a mock attack, some kind of play.

In rare instances, play can go too far, and playful growls turn into more defensive or aggressive growls. This can happen particularly between dogs playing with one another when they otherwise don't know each other. Different dogs have different kinds of socialization, and if they aren't trained to recognize the same signs in the same way, they can misinterpret the noises they're making. Fortunately, this rarely leads to significant scuffles; our puppers are smart, and they figure things out.

Pained Growling

Growling can also be an expression of pain. If a dog hurts itself or is trapped in some way, they'll make one heck of a ruckus, barking and growling and snarling and generally lashing out. Sometimes, if they're being attacked by another dog or a predator, that can drive them away. Other times, it calls in a nearby human for aid. And sometimes, if it's a pain they can't handle, like a broken leg trapped under a heavy object or caught in a hole, the growling is more of a visceral reaction.

The most obvious sign of this kind of growling is everything else. An injured dog, a dog in pain, is going to be yelping and barking and growling, and it ends up pretty obvious.

In less obvious cases, or in cases where the pain is milder but triggered by touch, the dog might only growl when the affected area is touched. For example, a dog with an injured leg might be fine if you scratch their ears, but if you pet too close to the leg, they'll growl at you for it.

The "That's Mine" Growl

Territorial and possessive growling is growling used as a kind of defensiveness behavior. You've probably seen those funny videos of a dog sitting with a paw on a bone or with a treat in front of them, where they growl if you reach for it. Sometimes it's more playful, sometimes it's more threatening, but either way, it's all because of the same instinct to defend.

This is actually somewhat similar to the anxiety and defensiveness growls mentioned above but tends to apply to specific areas, rooms, people, or objects the dog loves the most.

The Happy Growl

Also known as the purr, this kind of growl is a noise a dog makes when they're happy and experiencing pleasure. If you've ever managed to scratch that itch just right and your pooch is in absolute doggy bliss, the noise they make might sound a little like a cross between a growl and a cat's purr, and that's what this is. It's about as far away from any sort of aggressiveness as you can imagine, and if you hear it, you know you're doing something right.

So, that's it! The eight different kinds of dog growls, all here in one place. So tell me, what growls does your fur baby make? Do you have any fun or funny stories? Or others, the stories of an irate stray you properly read and were able to wrangle? Whatever the case, let me know! I love to hear your stories.

The reality is that while the use of crates can be inhumane, it's all in how you use them. Properly training a puppy to make use of a crate is a huge step towards having a well-behaved and obedient pup. You just need to do it right and avoid the pitfalls that make a crate more of a punishment than a home.

Dog Crate Training Basics: What You Need to Know

One of the biggest factors in how well you can use a crate, how well your doggo can get used to it, and how humane it is comes down to having a crate of the right size. Far too often, people buy a crate that fits a given range of dog, but don't account for comfort, or don't account for their puppy growing larger as they get older. Sometimes, people even buy crates to fit in a particular place in a room rather than a crate sized for their dog.

How do you make sure your dog crate is the right size for your pooch?

• They should be able to fit in and out through the door easily without having to contort, crouch, or otherwise squeeze into it.
• They should be able to stand up easily inside the crate; it should not restrict their ability to stand comfortably.
• They should be able to turn around easily inside the crate.
• They should be able to sit comfortably in the crate with at least two inches of clearance over their heads so they aren't forced to duck awkwardly.
• When they lie down, including lying on their side, they should have plenty of room to sprawl out.

Basically, the crate should never restrict or compress them. This is easy for small dogs, but larger breeds – and particularly the giant breeds – are going to be a lot more difficult to find a properly sized crate for them.

At the same time, the crate can't be too big. If it's so big that they can wander around it almost as freely as if they were loose in the room, it leaves them room for things like potty accidents. If your pup can find a corner to go in, then curl up comfortably in the opposite corner and not feel too enclosed with their leavings, it isn't a disincentive to using that corner to go, and that's unpleasant for everyone involved.

You can find general ideas of what size of crate you should get, based on the measurements and breed of your pupper, on resource guides like this one from PetMD. Some of the odder sizes for dog crates are probably going to be harder to find locally, and you may need to order them.

What about a growing pooch? Puppies go from tiny potatoes to full-size dogs in a relatively short amount of time, but to properly size a crate for them at each stage of their growth means buying a new crate every other month! The solution here is a removable divider, which many dog crate brands offer as an accessory. You buy a crate sized for your dog's full expected size and divide it down to be smaller while they're still young. If your crate doesn't have dividers that fit, you can stuff part of the crate with bedding and pillows to effectively make the crate smaller.

Some dogs prefer enclosed crates, while others want to be able to see and breathe freely. Most dog crates are a simple coated wire that is strong and durable enough to be secure but safe for a dog that paws and chews at the wires. If they need to be enclosed, a crate cover is a great option. Fully enclosed doghouse-style crates are harder to clean and manage and don't generally collapse for storage or travel as well.

Crate Training and Canine Psychology

A lot of people feel like a dog crate is a prison for dogs and should only be used as a punishment or containment for unruly dogs. If that's the situation you've reached, you've failed with crate training, and there's no easier way to phrase it.

A crate, with proper training, is a safe haven. It's a comfortable bed and a place to lounge, a place to sleep, and a place to hang out when company is over. Some dogs are excitable and can't help but jump up, but if they're well-trained and can go lay down in their crate, you can keep them there while company is over and the initial excitement dies down.

The crate is not a punishment. The crate is not containment. The crate is a safe haven, a comfort zone, and even a place to go to calm down anxiety. A well-trained dog will use a crate much the same way you might use your bedroom or bathroom when you need to de-stress from an over-stimulating situation.

A huge part of your goal with crate training, whether you're focusing on a new puppy or trying to crate-break an older dog, is to build a positive association with the crate. If you're at all familiar with other forms of dog training, you know the number one thing to do to build this association is to use treats. I'll go into more on how to do that in a moment.

You'll also need to associate the crate with relaxation and even sleep. The crate is where their bed is and where they sleep at night. It's where they relax during the day. Don't try to put them in the crate when they're excited and playing because they'll just want to come back out and keep playing, that sort of thing. It's all about the mindset.

How long will crate training take? It depends. Generally, you should be prepared for around six months of consistent effort before you can confidently say your dog is trained to their crate. Young puppies can learn a little faster, especially if they haven't had time to build up bad habits, and you're working on other forms of training as well. Conversely, older dogs or dogs with a learned aversion to crates from past abuse will take much longer.

Don't leave your dog in their crate for too long. For young puppies, that might mean no more than 3-4 hours at a time; for older dogs, it means no more than six or eight. When your dog is old enough, you might not need to close them in at all, but when they're still being trained, closing the door is an important part of ensuring compliance. But, if you leave them closed up too long, they might get anxious or need to go potty, and that causes problems.

Don't forget to train your humans, too. When you've properly trained your dog to treat the crate as a safe space they can go to be calm and cozy, it's important that it's treated that way by the people in your home as well. No one – other adults, kids, or otherwise – should try to engage the dog when they're in their crate. Make sure everyone respects the training!

Building a Dog Crate Training Routine

Now, let's get down to the details. What does the actual training process look like?

Start with introductions.

The first step is to introduce your dog to the crate. This is a new large object you've put in your home, and while a young puppy might not see anything odd about yet another new experience in their life, an older dog might be skeptical.

Generally, you want to put the crate somewhere you and your family spend a lot of time so it's a comfortable and familiar place for them. Put something soft, like a blanket or a dog bed, in the crate, and keep the door off; you aren't going to be closing them in there one way or the other, and you don't want them to accidentally do it to themselves.

Let your dog explore the crate at their leisure, sniffing it and looking it over. Some dogs will take to it immediately and find it a good place to sleep; others will avoid it. For the avoidant dogs, bring them to it and encourage them with happy talk and praise.

For further encouragement, use small treats your pup likes. Start by dropping a couple near the crate, and once they're used to it, put some near and just inside the entrance. If they refuse to go in, keep at it; once they do, you can put treats further in. Eventually, your pup should be more comfortable going all the way in the crate for their treats.

Keep this up until your dog is comfortable going inside the crate (with the door secured open or removed entirely). This might take a few minutes or a few days, depending on how avoidant your fur baby is.

During this process, you can add voice cues you want for in and out of the crate. Something as simple as a "crate" for stepping in can be good enough. Just pick a distinct phrase you will use for this purpose and unlikely for others.

Mealtime in the crate.

Once your pooch is more willing to at least step inside the crate, if not get all the way in, you can up the ante by feeding them their meals in the crate. If they won't go all the way in, put their food bowl just far enough inside that they can reach it at about their limit of comfort. If they're willing to go all-in, put it in the back of the crate for them. They'll be more comfortable getting inside and distracted by food.

Your goal here is that once they're comfortable eating inside the crate, you start closing the door behind them. Start by just closing it for a minute while they eat, opening it once they're done eating. For each meal, keep it closed for a little bit longer. Your goal is to reach about ten minutes after they're done eating with the door closed.

Keep an eye on their behavior. If they're anxious, fearful, or whine to get out, you may be trying to go too long, too soon. You want them to be comfortable, not anxious about being trapped.

Extend the timer.

Now, your goal is to extend the timer for them being in the crate and come up with times when you can put them in the crate without a meal as the main driver.

For example, you might give them the cue to enter and encourage them to step inside, give them a treat, and close the door. Then, just sit there with them, being a comforting presence but trying not to rile them up for 5-10 minutes.

Over time, you'll add other steps, like stepping outside of the room for 5-10 minutes while they're in the crate. Your goal is to teach them that the crate is a safe space; they'll be let out, but you won't always be there to comfort them while they're in it. This is how you can train them to be in their crate while you're asleep at night or when you're at work during the day. Expand this to errands and other reasons why you need to leave them unsupervised.

Nighttime is the hardest part. Combined with potty training for a new puppy, you'll probably need to get up and let them out periodically. Once they're old enough for full bowel control, though, a full overnight can be achieved.

Specific Schedules for Crate Training

It's difficult to pin down a specific schedule because dogs of different ages, breeds, and attitudes will all respond to crates and training differently. You can find schedules online – this one from Care is a good example – but keep in mind that your dog very likely won't adhere to it.

They learn at their own pace, and your job isn't to enforce a specific schedule; it's to respond to their attitudes and behaviors appropriately. When done right, you'll have a well-trained dog that is comfortable with their crate! It just might take a little time, that's all.

Have you ever established a crate training routine for your dog? If so, what was your experience like? Did your canine companion take to it well, or was it a bit of a challenge? Let me know in the comments section! I love hearing about all your stories and experiences!

Let's consider a scenario. You have a happy household with a pair of rambunctious dogs. You love every minute with these furballs, all the ups and all the downs, and you've never really thought about adding more to your household.

Then, one day, you're out doing some yard work, and you hear a plaintive cry from the bushes. A single, cartoonishly long, high-pitched whine. Then, from out of the leaf litter and debris comes a cat. She's clearly young, a runt maybe, and she's not doing well. One eye is a little crusty, her fur is matted, and she's all skin and bones.

You can't just leave her there, right? Of course not. This cat, who has been through so much, nevertheless worked up the courage to come into your life and ask you for help. Despite her ills, she's purring as she rubs your legs.

So, obviously, of course, you bring this poor creature to your vet. You get her cleaned up, fed, checked for a chip (none, of course), and vaccinated. Now you're just left with one big issue:

What will the doggos think?

Alright, so this is a bit of an emergency situation. You don't have a lot of time to prepare, but you can still introduce a cat to your dog-first household without too much issue. With a little care, attention, training, and watchfulness, you can introduce a cat to a dog family and end up with a happy family in no time.

Set Up a Safe Room

The first thing you need to know is that there's essentially zero chance that this is going to go well if you just put the cat in your living room and let things sort themselves out.

Cats and dogs have different kinds of body language, different ways of interacting with one another, and different kinds of signs to back off. They don't necessarily understand one another, and one creature's curious investigation might be coming on a little too strong.

It's also important to remember that our animals have much better senses of smell, taste, and hearing than we do. That's why our dogs can get up and bark at the sounds of a raccoon in the yard in the middle of the night or why they can smell that one gross pile of garbage half a mile away and make a beeline for it when you let them out of your sight.

So, here's what you do. Your dogs have the run of the house, but you need to pick a room to designate as your cat safe room. This should be a place with a door that closes and that your dogs can't open (and yes, some of those little Houdinis can get into all sorts of places they shouldn't, so you need this to be secure.) A baby gate won't do the trick. At most, you want the barest gap under the door.

Before you bring the cat into your home, pull your dogs aside and put them in, oh, anywhere. A garage, a closet, another bedroom, the basement; the point is, somewhere they aren't going to be at your feet and trying to investigate the now-terrified cat in your arms.

You can let your dogs back out in a few minutes. You just want to bring the cat to the safe room without your dogs catching sight of her – and without her seeing the dogs. They'll definitely know one another are there, from the scents and the sounds, but keep sight out of the picture for now.

Make sure the cat safe room has everything your cat will need.

• A cozy spot to hide.
• A litter box.
• Food and water bowls.
• A bed and bedding with several blankets or other objects.
• A toy or two.

You're going to be spending some time in this room, both helping the cat feel more comfortable and making sure your dogs don't bother her too much.

You will be keeping your animals out of sight of one another for at least three days, and more likely closer to a week. Remember, cats are creatures of habit, and you've massively disrupted the habits of this poor suffering stray (or, you know, a fresh new adoption you found, or a friend's cat they can no longer care for, or whatever.) Your goal is to shrink her world to something she can feel safe in, something she can control. If you just let her have the run of the house, there's a decent chance she'll bolt out the door the first chance she gets.

Exchange Scents

Now, you're going to be spending time with both the cat and the dogs, but that's not really enough of what you need here. This is where the bedding comes in. Your goal is to get both creatures used to each others' scents.

So, after a day or two of using the bedding, take one or two of the blankets from the cat safe room and put them out in the wider house for the dogs to explore and investigate. At the same time, bring something from the dogs – a stray toy, a blanket, a pillow – and put it in the cat's safe room. Make sure the cat still has their own bedding to use, and don't put the dog's object in the cat's safe space; just make it part of the room.

Open the Door

Once the cat is a little more used to this situation and is doing less hiding and more exploration, you can move on to the next phase of introduction. Your next step is visual introductions. You need the safe room to still be a safe space, but you want to introduce the animals to each other visually. A baby gate is usually ideal, but if you have dogs that are likely to try to jump it or push past it, you'll need to keep them close and supervised.

Basically, your goal is to let the animals see each other. They already know each other by scent, but now they can "put a face to the name," so to speak. Unless all parties are very friendly and used to other animals, chances are there's going to be a good amount of anxiety and staring.

This is one of the primary differences in body language and why cats and dogs sometimes don't seem to get along. In cat language, staring is a challenge. The "slow blink" and look away works on cats because it's the body language they use when they're comfortable with one another. Dogs, meanwhile, are just curious and will stare at that cat like there's no tomorrow. Your dogs don't mean anything by it – certainly not a challenge – but it will probably make the cat wary and uncomfortable.

This is why supervision is important. Make sure the two are still separate but can see each other. If there's hissing and barking, try to calm your dogs or end the session and try again in another day or so.

Explore the Floor

Once the critters are more accepting of each others' presence, it's time to let the cat explore more of your home. After all, it's going to be her home, too, right?

You want to set aside some time, like half an hour, for the cat to explore. Close off some of the trickier rooms or places where she could get into trouble (for example, if you have a basement with crawl space access, just keep the basement door closed.)

What do you do with the doggos during this time? Put them somewhere else. You can close them in a different room (not the cat's safe room), or you can put them outside if you have a yard, or even have a friend or partner take them for a nice long walk. This is the cat's introduction to the house, not to the dogs.

You'll probably want to do this a couple of times, and when the cat seems to have had enough, bring them back to the safe room and bring the dogs back in. Remember, this can be a long process, particularly if your furry children don't quite know how to get along yet.

Full Introductions

At this point, your cat is very likely hoping to get out of that tiny enclosed space and is much more willing to brave the presence of dogs to explore. Meanwhile, your dogs are still excited and curious, but they aren't going ape trying to get a glimpse of this elusive feline.

Basically, you want to leash up your pups and keep them at your side, but arm yourself with a bag of treats. Meanwhile, let the cat out of her safe room and let her roam. She's going to explore, but this time, the dogs are there to watch.

This is where training on the part of your doggos comes in very important. If they aren't very well-behaved, this is going to be a long and tricky process. If they're obedient, though, you can sit them by your side and let them watch as she explores. Reward them when they relax and look away, and if they get a little too curious and start to get up and go, sit them back down.

Now, you're just gradually removing barriers between them. As your new cat family member starts to get more comfortable around the dogs, and the dogs get a little less curious about the cat, you can start giving them a longer lead, letting the cat get closer, and eventually removing the leashes entirely.

This might take a few days with friendly and calm animals, or it might take a couple of weeks with a nervous cat and excitable dogs. Over time, the barriers will be completely removed, and within a month or so, they'll be able to coexist without more than the occasional scuffle. Your cat might still need her place to go and hide and will probably want to keep her personal space dog-free, but she'll let them get closer.

What if They Don't Get Along?

There are two cases where a new cat won't get along with your dogs.

The first is if you've proceeded too fast and are trying to rush the introductions faster than your cat is willing to accept. She'll be anxious and scared, will hide, and will likely hiss and possibly even bat at the dogs. This is a sign that you're pushing things too hard and too fast and will need to back off, reestablish barriers and the safe zone for the cat, keep the dogs further away, and generally slow down the pace of introductions. The better you do with introductions, the happier your household will be.

The second case is where you have a cat that is very frightened of dogs, or vice versa; dogs that are either very scared of or very aggressive towards a cat. For one reason or another, your animals aren't going to get along, and while it's potentially possible for them to eventually feel comfortable in one another's presence, it might take a very long time, and it could be dangerous in the interim.

You can try to redirect aggression between the two and keep going with treats and training to try to supersede the aggression with discipline, but it's occasionally just an irreconcilable difference. In these cases, unfortunately, you either have your work cut out for you, or you might just not be able to keep the two together. You can still find a loving home for this poor feline fur baby, but it might not be viable to keep her in your home. It's a tough decision, but it's one you'll need to make.

Fortunately, nearly all anxiety and aversion short of true, unchecked, unrestrained aggression can be trained away, and your animals will get along with one another when it's all said and done. Just be prepared to take the time you need to get them off on the right paws together.

Have you ever had to introduce a new cat to your dog or vice versa? If so, what was your experience like? Was it a challenge, or was it actually quite easy? Let me know in the comments section down below! I'd love to hear all your stories!

While none of us want to be miserable, it's even worse to see something we love be miserable and know there isn't a whole lot we can do about it.

When our beloved puppies fall ill, whether it's a kennel cough, canine cold, or something a little worse, they're not going to be their usual energetic, happy selves. Among the many side effects of illness is a loss of appetite.

We've all been there, right? It's hard to think about food when we don't have the energy to get out of bed, when we're chilled and tired and sore, or worse, when even the barest sips of water make us want to vomit.

Dogs can feel the same way, but since they don't have the high cognition required to know they need to eat, even if it's unpleasant, it's even more miserable for them.

When your precious fur baby is having a hard time getting and keeping food down, what can you do to help? Are there ways you can stimulate their appetites and get them to eat more? And when should you be concerned enough to take them to the vet? Let's dig in.

When Food Aversion is Concerning

Let's start with the most worrisome part: when is food aversion bad enough to warrant a trip to the vet?

A lot of different things can cause your pooch to avoid eating, even if they're normally voracious eaters who you practically have to stop before they eat the bowl, too.

• Stomach distress is the most common. This can be caused by a stomach bug like the flu, or it can be because they ate something they shouldn't, and it's irritating them. In extreme cases, it can cause something more dangerous, like a bowel obstruction that needs medical attention to address.
• Dehydration. If it's hot out and your furry child won't stop running around, no matter how much they pant and need to collapse in the shade, it's possible they end up dehydrated. In these cases, your pooch might not be interested in food because their primary desire is water. Make sure they have enough water in them to be able to handle and have an interest in food.
• Picky eating. Some dogs turn their noses up at certain kinds of food. Some will even change their preferences over time, especially as they get older. If they've been used to one food and you're trying to give them something else, the change might be enough to put them off, at least for a few hours.
• Dental issues. A sore tooth, abscess, or other issue with the jaw can make it unpleasant to eat. Sometimes, they'll eat despite the pain, and you'll notice whining while they chew. Other times, they'll simply refuse; it hurts too much to consider it.
• Stress. In stressful situations, the body does all kinds of things, including pumping in a bunch of hormones that skew behavior. For a dog, stress can be anything from a major life-altering event to just a new schedule for their day, and it can throw them off that they might not eat at their regular time.
• Medications. Some medications have appetite reduction as a side effect. It may or may not happen, and if it does, it may or may not be significant, but any time your dog is put on a new medication, your vet should warn you if they might have a lack of appetite because of it.
• Systemic diseases. Things like pancreatitis, cancer, kidney disease, and other diseases can have wide-reaching effects, including appetite suppression. Obviously, these are the worst-case scenarios and should be addressed by a vet ASAP.
• Aging. Older dogs likely aren't going to eat as much as younger dogs, regardless of whether or not they're ill. They're also sore and tired old friends, and they're not spending as much energy, so it's not as much of a cause for concern as long as they're eating some, occasionally.

So, when should you take your poor, hungry fur baby to the vet?

If your pooch simply doesn't want to eat at dinnertime and skips the meal, it means there's something to watch for and a few things to check, but it's probably not concerning. If they wolf down breakfast like they haven't eaten in a week, whatever was bothering them has passed, and they're fine.

If they skip meals for a day, and especially if they look a little lethargic or under the weather, they may be coming down with an illness. Check for the signs of more dangerous illnesses, but if it's just for a day, all you really need to do is monitor them and see if they feel better the next day.

If your fur baby is skipping meals for two days, then you should be concerned enough to bring them in to the vet. You can often identify the broad category of why they aren't eating – whether from pain, from obvious illness or from something else – and can determine when to take them in accordingly.

How to Get a Sick Pup to Eat

If your fur baby doesn't want to eat but clearly needs to, there are ways you might be able to make food more attractive to them or more palatable and help them get it down. Even a little bit of food is better than nothing and can help hold you and your fur baby over until a vet appointment. Here are some options you can try.

Mix in a high-value food.

When your fur baby is sick, they probably don't find their usual kibble to be very attractive at all. And really, who would blame them? Hard little pellets of nondescript food material aren't very interesting. One of the most common ways to help your furry child eat is to mix in a little bit of something more attractive to them. We're talking flavorful, with an incredible aroma, something they'll love. Chicken, beef, and even a bit of bacon can be perfect here.

Ideally, you want to avoid something too fatty because fat can cause digestive issues. If you go with bacon, cook it well and drain the fat before mixing it in. Same with beef, get a lean cut or drain the fat first. Chicken is fine on its own, but a flavorful rotisserie chicken is often better than plain old chicken. Just make sure to pull off the skin and don't leave bones in the bowl.

Ideally, the more potent and attractive treat mixed into their food will get them to eat it. If they still turn their nose up at it, you should definitely be considering that emergency vet trip.

Relatedly, you can also try a treat. If you aren't ready or willing to give them a whole bowl of high-value food, giving them a treat or two might be enough to stimulate them into eating. It's more about the reminder that food is good than it is about the flavors and scents. Just be careful; you don't want to accidentally train your pooch to avoid eating in favor of treats.

Try a softer food.

If your fur baby isn't eating because of some kind of pain in their mouth or teeth, the idea of chewing through hard little kibbles will be enough to dissuade them from even trying to eat. If you've ever had a bad toothache, you probably know exactly what's going through their heads.

The obvious solution here is to try soft foods. You have a few ways to do this. First, you can soften their kibble by mixing in some water or a simple broth and letting it soak in. A softer kibble is an easier-to-eat kibble. Second, you can use a softer base food, like ground or minced beef or chicken. In a pinch, you can even try something like cooked and mashed carrots or even baby food if you want to buy some or have it on hand.

Warning: if you want to use broth to help stimulate your fur baby's appetite, make sure you get a healthy kind of broth. Many broths are made for humans and include ingredients like high sodium, onions, garlic, and some spices that can be dangerous for dogs. Try to get a broth without these, or in a pinch, make your own.

Similarly, you can heat up their food a bit. Warming up their food can make it more aromatic, which might not be pleasant for you or your microwave but can make it more appealing to their furry senses. Pouring some warm water or broth into their kibble to soften it can get you the best of both worlds.

If your fur baby goes for it, this can also give you a good idea of why they're averse to food, and you can get them in for a dental check-up ASAP. You don't want a dental injury to fester, after all.

Try a bit of exercise.

Illness feeds back into itself. When you're sick, you don't feel good, you don't have energy, and it can even hurt to move. But, the less you move around, the more stagnant you get, the less healthy your overall system is, and the more an illness can fester. The same, of course, holds true for our canine companions as well.

So, try to take your fur baby on a walk. Even something as simple as a slow meander around the yard can be enough to get them up and moving, circulate their blood, get their juices flowing, get them to go potty, and generally encourage their system to move. There's a reasonable chance that a walk – and the longer, the better – can stimulate their appetite enough to get them to eat, even if it's just half their usual meal.

Give hand-feeding a try.

Another option is to turn the illness into a bit of comfort and bonding by curling up on the floor with your pooch and a bowl of food and hand-feeding them a couple of kibbles at a time. The process of hand-feeding can be comforting enough to get them to try to eat, and once they get a little food in them, their hunger may come back and they'll get to eating out of the bowl there with you.

In more extreme cases, you may need to get a liquid kind of food and hand-feed your fur baby with a syringe. Usually, though, if you've reached this point, you should be taking them to the vet (an IV with nutrients will be more effective) rather than trying to manage such a severe issue at home.

Vet-prescribed appetite stimulants can help.

If your fur baby won't eat and is clearly ill, you may want to take them to the vet regardless. Your vet can prescribe certain medicinal appetite stimulants. This can also work to counteract the appetite suppressant effects of other medications, as necessary. Specific medications can include mirtazapine, meclizine, and ghrelin receptor agonists.

Another more medicinal option is trying some CBD drops. CBD has the potential to both ease pain and stimulate the appetite of your fur baby.

Canine CBD is made from hemp, is safe and non-toxic, and can be found in peanut butter-flavored tinctures for maximum attractiveness to your fur baby. Make sure you give them the proper dosage, and see if it helps make them hungrier. With luck, an application or two might be all you need to get the ball rolling, and the infusion of nutrients will then help them fight off whatever is making them ill.

Whatever options you choose, there are a lot of different ways to help encourage your furry companion to eat. It's only if they continually resist all efforts to feed them, or they can't keep food down at all, or if they have signs of more serious illness that you should rush them to the vet. Hopefully, that's not the case for you.

After reading today's article, do you have any questions? If you do, please feel free to let me know in the comments section! I'm always more than happy to help you all out however I can!

We tend to take it for granted that dogs are potty trained and only go outside on their walks, but it takes work to get a new puppy to that point. They don't do it naturally, after all; an animal's instincts are just to go where they are, to scent mark, and to keep away from sources of food and water at most. Even cats, with their instinct to bury, are better about it than our brand-new puppies.

That said, potty training a puppy is completely doable and in a very short amount of time. Here's my guide on doing it so you can enjoy the antics of your puppy without worrying about where they've hidden their waste this time.

Patience is a Virtue

First and foremost, it's worth remembering that you're trying to train a relatively arbitrary behavior into an animal that has a relatively limited capacity to understand your goals, your intentions, or the reasoning behind what you want them to do.

As another site put it:

"When you think about it, it's astonishing how high our standards for dogs are.

Protect me from a burglar, but not from the mailman. Leave that delicious roast on the counter alone and eat those dry, bland, uniform kibbles in your bowl with gusto. Walk within a couple of feet of me, wherever I want to go, at whatever speed I'm walking at, only when I want to walk, every time I want to walk, and regardless of what sort of interesting things are in the environment.

Potty training is on that list. Pee here, not there. Also, "hold it" for hours for the opportunity to do so. And do it quickly when I want you to. And do it in all types of weather without complaint. Oh, and by the way, you need to do this 100% of the time, with no mistakes for the rest of your life."

It's a lot! You can't expect your puppy to understand why you want them to do one thing and not do another, only that you can reinforce their behaviors in the way you want them.

Potty training is all about giving your dog a place where they can do their business consistently and with a reward. That reward, when they're young, should be something of higher value, like a treat; later on, it can be simple praise. As an adult, a dog's "reward" for doing their business is relief, but it never hurts to praise them for a job well done.

Set Them Up For Success

One of the biggest pieces of advice you can get for potty training a new puppy is setting them up for success, and the biggest driving factor for success is limits.

The American Kennel Club recommends using crates as a key tool for potty training a puppy. While crates may not seem like the most humane thing – putting the puppy in puppy jail is a common representation – the reality is that the more freedom your puppy has and the less supervision they have, the harder it will be to properly train their behavior, especially when they're very young.

The main reason you want to use a crate is to limit the amount of space your puppy has to wander and explore, particularly when you aren't directly supervising them. You need a crate that's the right size, something large enough for them to move around in but not so large that they can designate one corner as the potty spot.

This works because dogs don't like their waste sharing their space any more than you do. While that might seem counter to the puppies you know and love – you know, the ones who seem to seek out the grossest stuff to go rolling in outside at the first opportunity – that's all about exploration and new things. Their own waste isn't nearly so attractive to them.

Essentially, you want to make sure that your puppy is in one of three states of being at all times:

• In a place where they can go potty without issues, like your yard.
• Under the supervision of you or someone who is also working on training them and who can give them permission.
• In a confined space like their crate where they're unlikely to do their business outside of an extreme need or circumstance, like being sick.

Now, you aren't going to be leaving your puppy unattended in their crate for long hours, or at least you should avoid letting that be the case. Young puppies are a lot of work and need a lot of supervision, so if you can't do it – like if you have a job you can't leave – make sure a spouse, partner, friend, or even a local dogsitter can come and take your place.

Get the Timing Right

Puppies are small, and while they can naturally hold their bladders and bowels for some amount of time, there really isn't much space in them to hold water or solid waste. The American Kennel Club says the general rule of thumb is that puppies can hold their waste for a number of hours equal to their age in months. So a three-month-old puppy can at most hit around three hours without doing their business, while an eight-month-old puppy can reach closer to eight hours. This also caps out at around nine hours/nine months. Adult dogs can sometimes last 10-12 hours, but it's not going to be pleasant for anyone involved.

Of course, you'll never let them hold it that long. Nobody likes the feeling of needing to go but being unable to, and you generally want to avoid putting that burden on your young puppy.

There are two schools of thought for timing with potty training. The first is to use activity milestones. For example, you can have your puppy take a potty break:

• As soon as you get up in the morning.
• Any time after playing indoors.
• Any time after spending more than an hour in a crate.
• After waking up from a nap.
• After eating or drinking.
• After spending time chewing on a toy or bone (as this works up saliva they swallow).
• Last thing before bed at night.
• For young puppies, at least once in the middle of the night.
• Any time your puppy is whining and pawing to get out of their crate, which is a prime sign they need to go.

This is a decent option. It is, essentially, any time your puppy has consumed food or water or taken part in an activity that distracts them or increases their digestion. That is, any time they've done something that isn't going potty, and they're likely to need to next.

Of course, this isn't always consistent, especially with variable human work schedules and the wild swings in temperament and energy in a puppy as they grow. Another option is to use the timer method.

The timer method is simple. Set a timer, and every time the timer goes off, day or night, no matter what you're doing, take your puppy for a potty break.

How long do you set the timer for? It depends on how old the puppy is.

• 8 weeks: 45 minutes, but be generous; your puppy is still spending most of their time with their litter and won't be receptive to much training yet. Many times, you won't even be able to adopt a puppy this young, and this stage of training is handled by the foster or breeder who cares for the pup.
• 8-10 weeks: 60 minutes. They will be a little more independent but still can't hold it for long.
• 10-12 weeks: 90 minutes.
• 12+ weeks: 2 hours.

In all cases except the earliest, you'll be able to set the timer for 3-4 hours overnight. Your puppy will be spending a good portion of that time sleeping, and so will you. Get used to the broken sleep; at least you can get through this stage with a puppy in a matter of weeks and months, not years, like if you had a baby!

What Goes On Outside

When you take your puppy out to do their business, you can't just push them out the door and stay on the porch while they wander and do their thing. No, it requires more active supervision and guidance than that.

First, designate a space in your yard as the potty zone. This should be around a ten-foot area where they do their business consistently. It's where you take them when it's time to go out. If you don't have a yard to yourself, like you live in an apartment, find local green space or curb lawn you can use for the purpose. Don't forget to clean up after!

When you bring your puppy out to go, it's with purpose. You aren't giving them the freedom of the yard because the yard is for all kinds of things: socializing, playing, exploring, and having fun. You need to leash them up and guide them to the potty zone with the express purpose of doing their business.

When they're done, then they can play, or go back inside, or have whatever reward you want to give them. No playing, no treats, no toys, no exploring before they've done their business.

So, here's how it goes.

Your timer goes off, so you leash up your puppy, grab the stash of treats you use for training, and bring them outside. You bring them to the potty zone, and now you wait. You don't do anything, you don't say anything (no encouragement; that's distracting!), nothing. Just hold the leash, wait, watch them, and wait for them to go.

Rewarding a Job Well Done

While the relief of not having to hold it in anymore is reward enough for older dogs, puppies need additional feedback for just about everything. When your puppy has done the deed, it's time for the reward. Critically, you need to wait for them to finish, but don't wait so long that they don't connect the behavior with the coming reward.

Start with quick praise. "Yes, good job!" and some happy praise is a great start. Reward them with several rapid-fire bits of treat, like nibbles of cheese or sausage. Keep the praise up, but put the treats away for several minutes.

Once they've been properly rewarded, you can go about your business. Let them play, bring them back inside, and go back to bed, whatever it is you were otherwise planning on doing. Set the timer for another interval and get ready to repeat the process.

What If My Puppy Doesn't Go?

As a general rule of thumb, when you take your puppy to the potty zone, you stay there with them for ten minutes. Ten whole, long minutes waiting for them to do their business. Often, they will, but what happens if they don't?

At this point, you enter crisis mode. Bring your puppy back inside, and while you can do a little of what you were going to do, you need to be vigilant. Your puppy didn't go, but that doesn't mean they didn't need to go. Chances are very good that they'll need to soon; they just didn't realize it ten minutes ago. This is the number one most common time for accidents to occur, and you want to avoid that as much as you can.

To help reinforce that this isn't time to go, put your puppy somewhere they won't want to go. On your lap might be a good idea. After ten minutes of supervision – or when your puppy starts wanting to go back out to the potty zone – bring them back out. Same routine: on the leash, to the zone, and wait.

If they go? Great! Reward time. If they don't? Repeat: ten minutes inside of waiting and watching, then back out.

You want them to have no options beyond "go where it's allowed" and "be watched where it isn't."

Monitor and Improve

Once you have this routine down, and your puppy is getting older and can hold it longer, it's time to work on increasing the timer until you can fully remove it.

Keep a log of when your puppy does their business and if they have any accidents. Each time they can go a week without an accident, you can increase the timer by about half an hour. If they have two (or more) accidents in a week, cut it shorter and go back.

Don't Punish

I know I've labored this point before elsewhere in several different posts, but punishment doesn't work with training. Yelling, spanking, rubbing their nose in it, the spray bottle; everyone has stories of these things working, but none of them actually work. More importantly, if you're handling training right, the lack of reward and praise is punishment enough.

If your puppy does have an accident, what you do depends on whether or not you're watching it happen. If you are, interrupt them in the act – a single sharp clap usually does the trick – then leash them up, bring them to the potty zone, and proceed as normal (before going back in to clean up.)

If you don't notice it, well, there's nothing you can do. You can't punish your puppy for something you don't know when it happened, and they won't build any associations.

The goal is to make it so the reward is so good that your puppy doesn't even consider other options. If you do it right, your potty training will be successful and mostly accident-free, and other people will look at your strategy in awe at how easy it was for you.

Have you ever successfully potty-trained a puppy before? If so, what was your experience like? Was training your young canine companion a challenge, or was it relatively simple? I'd love to hear all your stories, so be sure to share them in the comments section down below!