Perhaps the single most routine surgery in the veterinary field is that of the spay/neuter. Most people are aware that these surgeries are done and why, but not necessarily what they do, how, or what needs to be done after the surgery itself. I wanted to take a moment today to talk about it!

What is Involved in a Spay or Neuter Surgery?

Spaying and neutering are surgical procedures, which means they are invasive and require anesthesia, monitoring, and potentially IV fluids and other care.

The surgery is a lot less invasive for male dogs than for females due to the anatomy involved, but either way, it includes an incision in the flesh of the dog's underbelly, ligation of the blood vessels leading to the relevant reproductive organ, and the removal of that organ.

In male dogs, it's the testicles, while in female dogs, it's usually both the ovaries and the uterus, though in rare cases, it can be just the ovaries.

If you're interested in a closer look, this article covers neutering a male dog, and this one covers spaying a female dog. Fair warning: the neutering article includes pictures, so skip it if you're squeamish.

The key point to take away here is that both surgeries involve incisions of the skin and cutting away organs inside.

No matter how well-practiced the vet, these can always be potentially dangerous due to infection, failed ligations, or other problems.

Your job is to keep an eye on your beloved canine companion to make sure nothing goes wrong and that they heal normally.

What Are Common Symptoms After a Spay or Neuter Surgery?

Surgical recovery is a lengthy process, though your dog probably won't show it as much as you expect them to.

In the first 24 hours after the surgery, your pup will be recovering from being under anesthesia. They'll be groggy and nauseous and may have other symptoms, such as:

• Glassy-eyed looks

• Sleepiness

• Wobbly movement

• Excessive vocalization

• Shivering

• Irritability

All of these are normal. They're shaking off medication and dealing with both an unpleasant sensation, a bunch of disorientation, and a general feeling of not being entirely normal.

They don't know what's going on, and they don't have the language to understand if you explain, so they can only do what they feel they can do: whine about it, usually.

Because of their nausea, your dog is probably not going to want to eat very much. One of the main risks here is dehydration, so make sure to encourage your pup to drink. Offer food in small amounts, but be prepared if they can't keep it down.

After the first day or two, your pet will largely recover mentally, but they are still healing from the surgery. This is the most dangerous time for three main concerns.

The first is infection. While many procedures are in place to make sure your pet is as clean and sterile as possible during the surgery, there's always the risk of infection with any surgery, no matter how thorough the procedures. Keeping an eye out for the signs of infection is your most important job.

The second is reopening the incision. A small amount of bleeding on the first day is normal, but after that, it should remain closed, though it can be red and a little swollen.

If your pet does something that reopens the incision, you'll need to talk to your vet to get it closed back up. Fortunately, these aren't big incisions, so it's not a huge emergency if they reopen.

The third is internal bleeding. Part of the surgery is tying off the blood vessels that feed the organs being removed. There's always a risk, however small, of these not remaining properly tied off and causing internal bleeding. This is one of the biggest emergencies that will need immediate attention.

How Long Does Recovery After Spay or Neuter Surgery Take?

In general, dogs take around 10-14 days to fully recover from a spay or neuter surgery. The first day is the worst, and each day after will be better.

Some dogs take a little longer to recover, which can depend on their age, their size, and if there were any complications with the surgery itself or with their recovery process.

Many dogs will feel like they've recovered earlier, but they aren't great at judging the state of their healing internally, so your job is to keep them relatively calm and still so they don't hurt themselves in their excitement to get back to normal.

What Do You Need to Do to Care for Your Dog After a Spay or Neuter Surgery?

Caring for a dog after a spay surgery is fairly simple, but if it's your first time, it can be a little nerve-wracking. Just remember that millions of pet parents do it every year, and most of them don't have issues, so you'll probably be fine, too.

When you first bring your dog home, let them rest in a quiet, safe place. If you have other pets, kids, or anything stressful in your house, find a place your dog can stay away from them and let them recover there.

Check on your dog frequently for the first 24 hours to make sure they're fine. Complications can happen quite quickly, so you want to keep an eye on them or even stay with them while they rest and shake off the anesthesia.

Give them small amounts of food and water later in the evening. Their appetite won't return to normal for probably about two days, but you want to try to keep them hydrated and fed. Just be prepared for the risk of vomit if they can't keep it down.

Encourage frequent movement. Statistics show that if your dog spends most of the first day sleeping or resting, their recovery is probably going to take longer. You want them up and moving, even if it's just a walk across the room.

At the same time, discourage exercise and play. Jumping, running, and excessive playing risk reopening the incision or the ligations and can cause complications.

Keep the surgical site dry. No swimming, no bathing, no playing in the rain or the snow.

Keep checking the incision. A little redness and swelling are normal, but if it bleeds, reopens, leaks a strange fluid, looks bruised, or is otherwise unnatural, contact your vet.

What Symptoms Should You Watch for After a Spay or Neuter Surgery?

You can generally categorize issues post-surgery as normal, needing attention, or emergency. Let's go through each category.

Normal issues after a surgery.

Normal issues are things you may or may not see, but if you do, they aren't something to worry about. If they stick around or get worse, then they escalate into the next tier of severity, and you'll want to talk to your vet about them.

To be clear, you can call your vet about anything you aren't sure about. They're generally pretty happy to help, even if they are overworked – they love your dog almost as much as you do – and they won't be mad about a nervous call. Just don't necessarily rush your pup into the emergency vet for something that isn't a problem.

So what's on the list?

• A small amount of blood or bloody discharge from the incision site on the first day after the surgery. Small things like a minor red stain on their bed where they were lying are pretty normal. If it's bad, there will be more volume, or it won't go away even after days.

• A bit of redness or swelling, or even bruising around the surgical site. An incision is, after all, cutting through the skin. Think of it like when you get a cut yourself; it will be red and irritated because it's damage to the skin.

• Your dog whining and crying about their situation. Some dogs are way more dramatic than others in their discomfort, but most just won't know what's going on. They'll be disoriented, uncomfortable, and probably in a little pain, and they'll be vocal about it.

• Not doing their business on schedule. Potty training is important, so this can feel bad, but anesthesia basically halts the digestive process, and your dog probably won't go back to normal for at least a day.

If any of these happen for a day or two, don't worry, and just keep an eye on it. They should go away on their own.

Issues that need some attention.

Now, let's talk about the issues that will require attention but might not need an emergency trip.

These issues include:

• Significant swelling of the incision. This might be a sign of infection or could require medication to help manage.

• Colored discharge from the incision. This is generally a sign of some kind of infection and will require medication and maybe cleaning.

• Pale gums. This can be a sign of internal bleeding or an infection and is worth getting looked at.

• Long-term lack of appetite. If your dog refuses to eat or drink even after a day or two after the surgery, something might be wrong, and they'll need attention.

• Intermittent vomiting. Same deal here; it means something is wrong but not immediately life-threatening.

If your dog is experiencing any of these, you'll want to call your vet and talk to them about it. They might be able to do a quick video visit and give you a prescription or advice to try to care for the issue, or they might want you to bring your dog in to be looked at. Follow their advice.

Issues for the emergency vet.

Now, let's talk about the true emergencies. If you see any of these, you'll want to bring your pup to the nearest emergency clinic.

These issues might require another surgery to correct or could be a sign of something dangerous occurring:

• Consistent blood from the surgical site. This can indicate a failed ligation that will need to be redone.

• Consistent vomiting that doesn't go away. This can indicate a number of issues that need to be checked out.

• Difficulty breathing. This is another potentially serious complication that needs immediate attention.

• Inability to stand or not waking up. Terrifying!

These are your true emergencies, so get going ASAP if you see them.

Dog Spay Surgery FAQ

Now, let's wrap things up with a couple of other questions you might have.

Do you need to keep the incision clean?

Follow your vet's instructions.

Generally, you only need to wipe off discharge if it happens, but otherwise, it's better to leave it alone.

What kind of cone should you put on your dog?

Cones aren't generally recommended these days; instead, a more flexible e-collar is the way to go.

If your dog doesn't seem interested in licking or scratching at their incision, they don't need a collar or cone. If they can't seem to leave it alone, you need to protect the incision from their picking at it, so use the collar.

What if your dog doesn't tolerate a cone?

There are a few other options. One of the most common is a onesie, which can protect the site of the incision while being harder to work around and more comfortable for your pup.

You can also try something like boxer shorts – the fly is for the tail – though with both options, you still need to remove or alter them for potty time.

When all is said and done, you should be in a good position both to have a safe and healthy dog and to go through the whole process again with another dog in the future.

Remember, there are no stupid questions, and you shouldn't feel bad about being concerned. We all have to learn somewhere!

If you have any non-medically-related questions, I'd be more than happy to help out however I can! Just leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

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What is the average lifespan for a domestic house cat? What factors influence it, and what can you expect?

The Broad Answer

First, let's start with the broadest answer.

The average lifespan for a domesticated house cat is 13-17 years.

If you adopt a newborn kitten around the same time you have a human child, they'll grow up together, and the cat will likely pass away sometime in their teenage years. This might be early and will probably be one of their earliest experiences with a significant loss, or it might be later when they're getting ready to move out of the house and onto college or a career.

While 13-17 years is a fairly broad range, it also doesn't tell the whole story.

What's the Longest a Cat Can Live?

With immaculate genetics, consistent vet care, and a little luck, a cat can live quite a bit longer than what the average implies.

The oldest cat on record, and current holder of the world record, was a cat named Crème Puff. Crème Puff was born in 1967 and died in 2005, making her 38 years old when she died. That's over twice the average! What helped Crème Puff live so long? Likely a combination of care, activity, and genetics.

Crème Puff is an outlier, of course; her exceptional lifespan is something to be envied and enjoyed, and not something to base your own expectations on. Most cats won't make it nearly that long; a cat living to be 20 is already exceptional in a lot of cases.

Is There a Difference Between Indoor and Outdoor Cats?

This is a big one. You may have heard that cats should be kept indoors for a bunch of different reasons, and one of the big ones is that indoor cats just plain live longer.

That's true.

Outdoor cats, left unsupervised, live half as long: 7-9 years.

Now, that's for feral cats that are born, raised, and left to their own devices to scrounge for whatever food they can catch, suffer whatever illnesses they develop, heal (or don't) from injuries they receive, and generally have no one to care for them.

Unfortunately, even cared-for outdoor cats can have shorter lifespans for a bunch of different reasons.

• Catching diseases and parasites from the outdoors, even when a vet treats them, puts stress on the body, can damage organs, and can lead to other problems down the line.
• Spending time outdoors can lead to conflicts with other animals, including other cats, dogs, coyotes, other predators, and native wildlife, all of which can lead to injuries.
• Cats outdoors don't have the kind of supervision over their behavior or diets they have indoors, and they can eat something that has been poisoned or is toxic to them.
• In areas where summers are extremely hot and winters extremely cold, the weather can be a significant factor as well.
• Cars are an omnipresent danger, and thousands of cats are killed by vehicles every year.
• In rare and unfortunate cases, cat-hating people in your community might abuse or kill your fur baby.

Even a cat that stays away from roads, gets lucky with other animals, and doesn't eat anything toxic can still be exposed to allergens, pollution, and parasites, all of which cause problems that don't just hurt in the now; they shorten the future as well.

Outdoor cats that are cared for but are still left to their own devices – such as cats that have shelter in a barn or garage but aren't let inside or cats that can come and go as they please but still spend some nights outdoors – will naturally live somewhere in between the two averages.

Do Different Breeds of Cat Live Different Lengths of Time?

Since genetics play a pretty big role in aging, the answer here is also yes. Some cats live longer than average, and some live shorter amounts of time; these "breed averages" can still vary, but you can expect to adjust your planning either upwards or downwards depending on the cat you're adopting.

Breed Average Lifespans:

• Abyssinian: 9-15 years
• Devon Rex: 9-15 years
• Javanese: 10-15 years
• LaPerm: 10-15 years
• Cornish Rex: 11-15 years
• Siberian: 11-15 years
• Bengal: 12-16 years
• Birman: 12-16 years
• Maine Coon: 12-15 years
• Munchkin: 12-14 years
• Ragdoll: 12-17 years
• Sphynx: 13-15 years
• Norwegian Forest Cat: 14-16 years
• American Shorthair: 15-20 years
• Siamese: 15-20 years
• Burmese: 16-18 years
• Balinese: 18-22 years

Additionally, most of the time, a purebred cat is going to have a shorter lifespan than a "mutt" cat, as more diverse genetics tend to lead to more resiliency against various ailments. Some breeds are susceptible to things like kidney problems and other issues over time, and larger breeds are often (though not always) shorter-lived because of those inherent traits.

Again, breed is only one factor in the lifespan of a cat, and while it can be an important one, it's far from the only factor in play.

Do Different Colors of Cat Live Different Lengths of Time?

While you might scoff and say "no" to this out of hand, if you think about it, is there something to it? Do orange cats pass quicker when they don't have control of the brain cell? Do black cats suffer from bad luck?

Honestly, the biggest reason I bring this up is simply because I've seen many people ask about tabbies. Tabby cats have the same lifespan as their breed because tabby is just a coloration and pattern, not a breed.

In general, no, different colors of cat don't live different lengths of time. The color of the coat, in some cases, can indicate a particular genetic ancestry, though – such as seal point or color point being more typical of purebred cats – but for the most part, it's all the same cat underneath.

One potential exception to this is black cats if they're outdoor cats, and only because there are terrible people who are superstitious about them and do terrible things to them. Even if you have an outdoor cat, if they're a black cat, bring them in around Halloween please.

What Factors Affect the Lifespan of a Cat?

If you're worried about how long your fur baby will be with you, and you want to do everything you can to make sure they live a long and happy life with you, what factors should you consider? It's pretty much all that you would expect.

Maintaining a Healthy Diet. A proper diet is probably one of the most important things you can do to keep your cat going for as long as possible. A good diet means three things.

• A diet that is low on unnecessary fillers you commonly find in cheaper foods.
• A diet that is focused on the nutrients and vitamins a cat needs – primarily meat.
• A diet that adapts to changing health and keeps things like allergies and hormones in consideration.

You can't pick a food and stick with it indefinitely. Kittens need different nutrients in different amounts than adult or senior cats. Cats with thyroid or kidney issues need special diets. There are all sorts of different ways you may need to adjust your cat's diet over time to make sure they get what they need without the things they don't.

Maintaining a Healthy Weight. Cats have a range of weights they should be in depending on their age, breed, and size. If your cat is underweight, they may be ill and not eating, and they should be seen by a vet right away. If they're overweight, they can develop issues like diabetes, organ damage, and other problems that, even once you address them and bring your cat back to a healthy weight, will tend to linger.

Keeping to a Healthy Activity Level. The healthiest and longest-lived cats tend to be cats that have plenty of stimulation and enriching activities in their homes. They run, they jump, they play. You want to help engage their hunting instincts in a safe and controlled way. The exercise keeps them healthy, the stimulation keeps them from developing anxiety or other cognitive issues, and it all helps you bond more closely with your feline friend.

Keeping Away from Sources of Danger. Partly, this comes back to keeping your cats inside, where they aren't going to run into predators, vehicles, or other issues. Inside, though, it also means keeping certain areas (like attics or crawl spaces) closed off, keeping dangerous houseplants out of their reach or out of the house entirely, keeping toxic chemicals and dangerous foods locked up, and so on. The fewer threats to life and limb that you have lying around, the better the environment will be for your fur baby.

Getting Swift Veterinary Care When Necessary. Sooner or later, something will happen to your cat. Maybe they get sick, maybe they catch something, maybe they pick up parasites from a mouse that gets into the house, who knows. They might also develop tumors or other mysterious lumps just from genetics, age, or stray cosmic rays. Knowing when to bring your fur baby to the vet and have them looked after is critical for their long-term health.

I'm not saying you need to rush them to the emergency vet at the first sign of anything going wrong. That would be expensive and unnecessary. Instead, just make sure you keep an eye on them, notice changes outside of the norm, and address them as necessary.

Minimizing Unnecessary Sources of Stress. Stress and anxiety can do serious long-term damage in ways you never notice. Stress builds up the stress hormone cortisol, which causes further damage and stress to the bodily systems of anything – person or animal – who experiences it. Keeping stress down is critical for long-term health.

What Are the Signs of Aging in Cats?

How do cats progress as they get older? Other than getting larger, more active, and then less active, and eventually slowing down, there are a lot of little things that happen as your fur baby ages.

• Their immune systems get weaker, and they can become more susceptible to diseases.
• Their skin can grow thinner and more fragile, and they can develop rashes or infections more easily.
• They may lose the attention or focus to groom themselves and may not groom themselves well, thoroughly, or consistently.
• They may start to develop issues with controlling their bladder or bowels and might miss the litter box.
• They can lose their sense of hearing and their eyesight, partially or totally.
• They can develop dental disease, may need to have teeth pulled, and may need to switch to a softer diet because they have trouble chewing.
• They can develop feline arthritis and other joint issues, which reduces their mobility and makes it harder for them to jump around, move, or be active.
• They may develop kidney issues that need to be monitored over time.
• They can develop tumors, cancers, and other issues that can require surgery or advanced treatment to address.

Older cats tend to be slower, more lethargic, and more content to just spend time with you, sleeping near you or with you, and just enjoying cozy, warm spots. The rambunctious days of their youth are behind them, and trust me; they appreciate every moment of their life with you.

It's always a heartbreaking event to have to put down a beloved feline friend, but sooner or later – unless they pass happily in their sleep – they will probably need the intervention. When quality of life is no longer possible, it's better to let them have a comfortable way out than to drag them along in pain for your own comfort.

Fortunately, there are many resources available to help you through the loss of a beloved pet. Groups like Lap of Love, the Association for Pet Loss and Bereavement, and even the country's mental health services can all help you out.

Just remember; they may be just a part of your life, but you are there for the whole of their life, and that's worth something.

Now that we're at the end of this article, I'd love to hear from you, the readers! How old is your feline friend? Do you have any favorite stories about them? Be sure to share them in the comments section down below! I absolutely love hearing about all your fur babies.

If your fluffy doggo is having a hard time maintaining that fluff, there might be something wrong. So, let's talk about the causes, severity, and treatment of bald patches in our fur babies. While they can be dramatic, they have a lot of possible causes, and a range of different severities. So, while a bald patch is cause for some concern, you should hold off on the emergency trip to the vet E.R. until you're sure there's something worth the rush.

Are Dog Bald Spots Dangerous?

Before we dive into the specific causes for bald patches in dogs, let's address the elephant in the room: how dangerous are they? It's obviously distressing to see a patch of that lustrous fur coat disappear, or to be brushing your pooch and have much larger clumps of fur than normal come away with each stroke. How bad is it?

The answer here depends on the cause of the issue. Unfortunately, it's never a simple answer, because there are many different reasons why your fur baby might be losing some of their fur. Fortunately, most of the time you don't need an emergency appointment, and when you do, there are usually other more concerning symptoms – like difficulty breathing – that warrant the trip.

My recommendation is this:

• Check for serious symptoms that might make an ER trip a good idea.
• If no symptoms exist, call your vet and explain the situation.
• Your vet will ask you questions, which can help you determine whether you need an urgent appointment or a normal appointment.
• At your vet's recommendation, do any home treatments that may help in the meantime.

Bald patches can turn into lesions, sores, and infections if they're left untreated, and they can return if you don't know the cause and address it. Plus, they're often pretty uncomfortable, not to mention unsightly. While your pooch may be just as happy as ever despite the spot, deep down, they may not be comfortable, and we don't want that.

What Are the Causes of Bald Spots on Dogs?

As with cats, there are a variety of different possible causes that can lead to bald spots. Many of the causes are the same, but there are a few differences we'll talk about as well.

To determine what the issue is, your vet will ask you about symptoms and probably run some tests. They'll look for where the hair loss is, how big and how it's shaped, and can inspect the area with a trained eye. As for tests, they can check a blood panel, a biopsy if there's a suspicion of a tumor, and skin smears that can show bacteria or other infections. If nothing else comes up, you may have to go through an elimination diet to check for allergens in food.

Allergies

One of the most common reasons why a dog ends up with bald spots is allergies. Dogs can have allergies or sensitivities to things like mold, dust mites, pollen, household chemicals, and even foods. While allergies present differently, especially depending on how the allergen is exposed, bald spots are not uncommon.

Basically, it works in pretty much the same way as dermatitis does in humans. Your dog either brushes up against something that they're allergic to, or they eat it, and it causes a flood of histamines in the affected area. This leads to inflammation and a whole bunch of symptoms, including itching, scratching, biting and nibbling, sneezing, irritated and watery eyes, eye discharge, runny nose, and, of course, bald patches.

Allergic reactions are also part of the other causes of bald patches, as well. I'll mention those when we get to them.

So, how bad is an allergic reaction? Well, just like in people, it can range from a minor and temporary irritation all the way up to an emergency situation. A person who is allergic to peanuts, for example, might get itchy and red when exposed, or they might break out in hives and run a fever, or they might go into anaphylactic shock. The same can happen with dogs; it can be a minor irritation, a significant problem, or a life-threatening ailment.

Fortunately, if the main symptom you're seeing is hair loss, it's probably not immediately life-threatening. Most allergens, if they're in the system long enough to cause hair loss, are a low-level, long-term kind of reaction. If it's life-threatening, it's going to be abrupt and cause respiratory problems first and foremost.

Parasites or Infections

Pretty much any nasty little gribbly that gets into or onto your fur baby can cause bald spots. Infestations – like fleas, ticks, ringworms, mites, or other kinds of parasites – occur because they bite or live in or on the skin. The skin, of course, doesn't like that and reacts with inflammation, irritation, and other symptoms.

Flea infestations are honestly one of the most common causes of bald spots on dogs, especially when those spots show up in areas like around the collar and behind the ears, where fleas can hang out without the dog getting at them.

The most extreme cases of this are things like mange, which is a type of mite infestation that can go wildly out of control, especially in stray dogs or dogs that get lost for an extended period.

Infections, meanwhile, are similar but inside the dog. Things like worms, skin infections, or bacterial infections can all present with a variety of symptoms, including hair loss. This is often more general, but a localized infection – like if your dog ran through a thornbush, got scraped, and had a cut that got infected – will have more localized bald spots.

Generally, with these kinds of issues, you want to look for other symptoms. Things like mites, fleas, and ticks are all pretty obvious. Other infections might have characteristic looks, like roundworms. Also, keep an eye out for things like thickened skin, itching, oily skin, or circular patches of hair loss.

All of these are pretty well treatable. You're generally going to need your vet to identify what the infection is and give you the appropriate treatment, which might be antibiotics, antifungals, antiparasitics, or something else. You'll also likely be given something like a soothing cream or a medicated shampoo to use, and in some cases, steroids to help with the inflammation. It's rare that anything but the most unchecked, antibiotic-resistant infection is dangerous, at least.

Pressure Sores

Another relatively common cause for bald spots is pressure. In humans, we get bedsores and pressure ulcers. Dogs, with their fur coats, have that insulative layer to take the brunt of the pressure first.

Basically, pressure and friction rub at the fur and skin, and that damages the fur and skin over time. The more pressure and friction, and the longer it happens, the more damage builds up. Eventually, it can wear away enough at the fur to cause a bald spot, and eventually can start to cause skin irritation, and even scarring or calluses over time.

This is most common in large, heavy dogs and in older dogs. It's also characteristic of places where your dog's skin contacts some object. It's usually in elbows, hips, and other joints. It can also happen with dogs that have very low activity levels.

There are a few ways you can handle this issue. An orthopedic bed can reduce pressure and friction if your dog finds it comfortable enough to use. You can also use baby clothing and bandages to cover the areas that are seeing hair loss, allowing the fur to regrow because the fabric takes the friction instead. In some dogs, you might use compression sleeves as well.

It's also a good idea to get your pooch moving from time to time, so they get up and aren't laying in one position for hours at a time. Of course, for elderly dogs, you might just want to let them sleep. Either way, this isn't a terribly dangerous cause for bald spots unless it's starting to cause ulcers and infections, and you generally won't let it get that far, right?

Cushing's Disease

Hair growth is governed by hormones, and one of those hormones – the stress hormone cortisol, also known as adrenaline – can cause hair loss when it's present in excessive amounts. This is why people and animals lose hair when they're stressed.

Cushing's Disease is the name for hyperadrenocorticism, which is when your dog's hormonal system goes wild and produces too much cortisol. This can be caused by anything from age to a tumor on some part of the hormonal system and is most common in older dogs.

Other symptoms of Cushing's Disease include increased thirst and hunger, frequent urination, panting, thin skin, lethargy, reduced activity, a pot-belly appearance, and a higher chance of skin infections.

How bad is it? Moderate. Cushing's Disease is manageable with medication, and in the case of something like a tumor, it may be treatable with surgery. However, it's something that you're going to have to actively manage and pay attention to for the rest of their life.

Stress

Cushing's Disease is when the body produces too much cortisol, but it's not the only reason why the body might produce more cortisol than normal. Stress, ranging from a major move or rearranging of the house to a bad encounter with another dog to general anxiety, can all lead to increased cortisol levels. This can, in turn, lead to hair loss. Unfortunately, this is often delayed – it takes time for the hormones to affect the hair follicles and longer for those hair follicles to grow out or die off – so the actual stressful event may have been weeks or months in the past. Fortunately, as long as the stress is temporary, so is the hair loss.

Boredom can also cause hair loss in some cases. Separation anxiety, boredom causing excess grooming, and other issues can all relate.

Genetic Hair Loss

Just like how we people – men, mostly – lose hair as they get older, so too can dogs. Genetics can play a role in hair loss, and it's not always graceful. It is, however, generally related to breed and age. Dogs like Dachshunds, Chihuahuas, Whippets, and Greyhounds can end up with patchy hair loss when they hit around 1-2 years old; other breeds lose hair as they get into their final years.

There's nothing you can really do about genetic hair loss, but you still might want to check with your vet to make sure it's not a different problem.

Other Causes

There are a few other potential causes for bald patches. An injury, especially one that scars over, can leave a bald patch behind. Post-surgical healing can do it, too. Cancer can wreak havoc on your fur baby's system, too, and cause hair loss both from having weird bulges from tumors and from disrupting hormones.

All of these have different levels of severity and different kinds of treatments. As usual, talk to your vet at your next appointment.

Have you ever had to deal with a dog with bald patches or spots? What did it turn out to be, and how did you fix it? We never like to imagine our poor fur babies suffering, so it's always helpful to share the signs and symptoms with fellow pet parents so we can all be prepared.

Fortunately, at least, most of these causes are pretty minor and easily treatable. Whether it's a simple prescription medication, a medicated shampoo, a changed diet, or a fancy outfit, dogs can adapt to anything, and we can keep our fur babies happy and healthy as long as possible. So, tell me your story below!

For me, one of the best things about our little furry feline friends is their sleek, fluffy fur coats. Whether they're a coarse, wiry domestic shorthair or a majestic, fluffy long-hair with a grooming to-do list a mile long, that fur is iconic.

It's understandably distressing if your fur baby is, well, having trouble being a fur baby.

Bald patches in any animal are generally not a great sign, though they can have a lot of different causes, some worse than others.

Are Cat Bald Patches Dangerous?

Before digging into specific causes and their treatments, you probably want to know right off the bad how worried you should be. If your fur baby has a bald patch, should you rush them to the emergency vet, should you insist on an appointment as soon as possible, or should you just keep an eye on it until your next scheduled appointment?

The answer is right around the middle, but it does depend on the cause of the issue.

In general, you're going to want to call your vet and explain the situation. You don't need to rush them to the vet unless there are other signs of problems of a more serious variety, which I'll go through as we get to them. Usually, though, a bald patch is a sign of something you can adjust or treat at home, and you only need a vet to look at it to verify that it's not something worse. An urgent but not emergency appointment – sometime in the next week or so – is probably all you need.

That said, if left untreated, bald patches can turn into skin lesions and sores, and those can be the source of infections or other dangers, and that's much more urgent. You need to have your vet take a look at your furry friend, regardless of whether or not you think it's immediately dangerous, just in case there's an underlying issue.

What Causes Cat Bald Patches?

There are a variety of different problems that can cause bald patches, so let's go through them and evaluate their symptoms, prognosis, and treatment options.

Parasites

The first and one of the most common reasons why a cat can end up with bald patches is because of some kind of parasite. Most of the time, this is fleas, but it can also be caused by mites and other external parasites.

Fleas and mites don't actually cause bald patches; instead, it's an allergic reaction, a kind of topical dermatitis caused by flea bites or mite bites. The allergic reaction, the inflammation, and your fur baby grooming the area and trying to alleviate it all lead to hair loss in the area.

In extreme cases, mange – which is a mite infection – can also lead to hair loss. Mange is characteristic in appearance and tends to come with crustiness and other skin problems as well, so it's a lot more noticeable than just hair loss and bald patches, though.

Bald patches caused by fleas and other parasites are generally not a huge cause for concern beyond the obvious: you have fleas or mites that you need to address. Cat flea treatments are medications that prevent fleas from reproducing and work great for months at a time. You'll generally need to give your cat an anti-parasitic treatment.

If your fur baby is constantly licking at the bald patches, it means they're either itchy or painful, and they're trying to soothe it. In these cases, it won't heal well without help, so your vet may give them an antihistamine or a steroid shot, which can reduce the inflammation and irritation, allowing the area to heal and the fur to regrow.

The only way this is dangerous is if you don't treat the parasites or if the skin irritation is so advanced that it's leaving open sores that get infected. Otherwise, it's irritating and painful for your fur baby but not life-threatening.

Skin Infections

Along the same lines as parasites are various sorts of skin infections. The most common to affect cats is ringworm. Despite its name, ringworm isn't actually a worm. It's actually a kind of fungal infection, usually presenting itself as a round lesion on the skin. It's irritating, dry, itchy, painful, and prone to cracking and spreading, all of which means your cat will try to soothe it with grooming. Skin irritation and fungal infections combined with grooming can result in rapid, localized hair loss and spread.

Ringworm is a little more dangerous for two reasons. The first is that it needs a lab test to appropriately diagnose, and in that time, it can spread, especially to other animals. More than that, though, it can even spread to humans. You'll need to be careful when handling your fur baby, keep anything they come into contact with washed or cleaned and make sure to treat it aggressively to keep it from spreading to you or other cats in the house.

There are other skin infections besides ringworm that can crop up, but they tend to be a bit less common. All of them generally need a vet to look at them, a lab test to diagnose them, and a treatment to take care of them. Which ones, specifically, depend on the cause of the infection.

Other Allergies

Allergies come in more than just reactions to parasites like fleas. Just like we people can be allergic to all kinds of things, so can our kitties. I've heard of everything from pollen allergies to dust allergies to protein allergies in cats! Some of them are a lot harder to handle than others, but some just require periodic allergic shots or pills.

When your fur baby has bald patches, it can be an allergic reaction, and that reaction can be to either something they came into contact with or something they ate.

• Long-term, low-level reactions to something in their food can cause chronic inflammation, which, building up over time, can manifest as skin irritation and bald patches or general hair thinning and hair loss.
• Rubbing up against something they're allergic to, like a plant with an irritating sap along the lines of poison ivy or poison oak or a plant with pollen they're allergic to, can lead to the same sort of topical irritation and allergic reaction as above. It's less likely to result in bald patches right away, but if your fur baby over-grooms the area, it can lead to a loss of fur.
• Some insect stings and bites can cause the same kinds of irritations. Many insects can't make it through a fur coat, but some can; a wasp sting or bee sting, in particular, can lead to a longer-lasting irritation that they groom until the skin is bald.

If you want to learn more about cat allergies, VCA has a great resource here. It can get you started in knowing what to look for and when there may be an emergency involved.

Usually, allergies like this aren't going to be a huge health emergency. It's only if your cat starts having trouble breathing or other issues that you need to rush them to the vet. Chronic, long-term allergies to food are more likely to just cause low-level unpleasantness on an ongoing basis. It sucks, but it's not immediately life-threatening.

How do you solve this problem? It depends on the allergy. You may need to identify an environmental allergen and remove it, give them allergy shots to combat it, or change foods or grooming supplies to remove an allergy-inducing ingredient from their lives. It all depends on what caused it.

Stress and Anxiety

Have you ever met someone who has anxiety? There's a good chance that they have some kind of nervous tic. Some people tap their feet or hands constantly. Some fidget or pace. Some even pick at their hair.

Well, cats can react the same way. When they're anxious and stressed, they need to alleviate it somehow, but they have very few options available to them. After all, they don't have hands! Now, think about what a mama cat does to soothe her kittens when they're young and scared; she grooms them. Comfort licks can soothe and relieve anxiety and stress in kittens, and older cats maintain that habit.

What this means is that cats under stress or suffering from anxiety are likely to spend more time grooming themselves than they otherwise would. Often, they'll end up focusing on the same few spots, like their flanks, which end up with bald spots because of the over-grooming. Of course, this leads to more stress and more grooming and becomes an ongoing problem.

There are a few ways to address this. The first is to figure out why they're stressed or anxious and alleviate the issue. There are a lot of possible causes for cat anxiety, ranging from rearranging the house or moving food/litter/bedding from where they're used to, to illness, pain, or injury, to separation anxiety. Figuring out the cause allows you to alleviate it.

You may also need to use an anti-anxiety medication. These medications can include things like gabapentin, fluoxetine, alprazolam, and even CBD. Make sure you talk to your vet before administering any kind of medication, of course.

Thyroid Problems

One of the more common problems domestic cats develop over time is thyroid issues. The thyroid is an important part of the hormonal system, and any imbalance in hormones can cause all kinds of problems. A thyroid issue can lead to a bunch of different issues with your kitty's fur coat, including a loss of luster, greasy fur, matted fur, and a lack of grooming. Hair loss, of course, is also common.

Thyroid issues also cause other symptoms, including increased thirst, changes in weight, hunger or loss of appetite, and lethargy or hyperactivity. If it sounds like that's basically every possible extreme, it's because an over-active and an under-active thyroid are both problems in opposite ways.

While thyroid issues are dangerous, they are also common enough that we know very well how to treat them. You may need to give your cat pills for the rest of their life, or you may give them a kind of radiation treatment that kills the thyroid to prevent it from flooding their system with hormones, or there may be other treatments.

It's also possible that a tumor or cancer of the thyroid or another hormone-producing organ is causing the problem as well. These need to be treated on a case-by-case basis, obviously.

Other Issues

There are a few other reasons why your fur baby might be getting bald spots.

One of the more common with outdoor cats is an injury, particularly an injury when fighting with another cat or another animal. These other critters aren't exactly washing their hands, and even a minor scrape from a claw can lead to an infected wound. Of course, if an infected wound has caused a bald patch, it should be pretty obvious what it is and that it requires some fast treatment.

There are also various sorts of cancers that can cause hair loss. Leukemia is a common one; either the cancer causes hair loss or the treatment does. In these cases, though, the bald patches are probably the least of your worries.

Some cats also have a genetic cognitive condition where they over-groom, as a sort of feline obsessive-compulsive disorder. This can be mitigated with regular shots, but it's something you need to keep an eye on for their whole lives and can get worse as they get older.

Regardless of the core issue, a few things are generally true:

• Hair loss and bald patches in a cat are signs of something underlying wrong, whether it's a health issue, a hormone issue, an injury, or an allergy.
• Hair will grow back once the underlying issue is handled, as long as it doesn't cause scarring on the skin that prevents fur from growing.
• You will almost always need a vet to examine and determine the cause of the issue, though it's usually not an emergency situation.

Have you had a cat that struggles with hair loss? Let me know about it and what you did!

While none of us want to be miserable, it's even worse to see something we love be miserable and know there isn't a whole lot we can do about it.

When our beloved puppies fall ill, whether it's a kennel cough, canine cold, or something a little worse, they're not going to be their usual energetic, happy selves. Among the many side effects of illness is a loss of appetite.

We've all been there, right? It's hard to think about food when we don't have the energy to get out of bed, when we're chilled and tired and sore, or worse, when even the barest sips of water make us want to vomit.

Dogs can feel the same way, but since they don't have the high cognition required to know they need to eat, even if it's unpleasant, it's even more miserable for them.

When your precious fur baby is having a hard time getting and keeping food down, what can you do to help? Are there ways you can stimulate their appetites and get them to eat more? And when should you be concerned enough to take them to the vet? Let's dig in.

When Food Aversion is Concerning

Let's start with the most worrisome part: when is food aversion bad enough to warrant a trip to the vet?

A lot of different things can cause your pooch to avoid eating, even if they're normally voracious eaters who you practically have to stop before they eat the bowl, too.

• Stomach distress is the most common. This can be caused by a stomach bug like the flu, or it can be because they ate something they shouldn't, and it's irritating them. In extreme cases, it can cause something more dangerous, like a bowel obstruction that needs medical attention to address.
• Dehydration. If it's hot out and your furry child won't stop running around, no matter how much they pant and need to collapse in the shade, it's possible they end up dehydrated. In these cases, your pooch might not be interested in food because their primary desire is water. Make sure they have enough water in them to be able to handle and have an interest in food.
• Picky eating. Some dogs turn their noses up at certain kinds of food. Some will even change their preferences over time, especially as they get older. If they've been used to one food and you're trying to give them something else, the change might be enough to put them off, at least for a few hours.
• Dental issues. A sore tooth, abscess, or other issue with the jaw can make it unpleasant to eat. Sometimes, they'll eat despite the pain, and you'll notice whining while they chew. Other times, they'll simply refuse; it hurts too much to consider it.
• Stress. In stressful situations, the body does all kinds of things, including pumping in a bunch of hormones that skew behavior. For a dog, stress can be anything from a major life-altering event to just a new schedule for their day, and it can throw them off that they might not eat at their regular time.
• Medications. Some medications have appetite reduction as a side effect. It may or may not happen, and if it does, it may or may not be significant, but any time your dog is put on a new medication, your vet should warn you if they might have a lack of appetite because of it.
• Systemic diseases. Things like pancreatitis, cancer, kidney disease, and other diseases can have wide-reaching effects, including appetite suppression. Obviously, these are the worst-case scenarios and should be addressed by a vet ASAP.
• Aging. Older dogs likely aren't going to eat as much as younger dogs, regardless of whether or not they're ill. They're also sore and tired old friends, and they're not spending as much energy, so it's not as much of a cause for concern as long as they're eating some, occasionally.

So, when should you take your poor, hungry fur baby to the vet?

If your pooch simply doesn't want to eat at dinnertime and skips the meal, it means there's something to watch for and a few things to check, but it's probably not concerning. If they wolf down breakfast like they haven't eaten in a week, whatever was bothering them has passed, and they're fine.

If they skip meals for a day, and especially if they look a little lethargic or under the weather, they may be coming down with an illness. Check for the signs of more dangerous illnesses, but if it's just for a day, all you really need to do is monitor them and see if they feel better the next day.

If your fur baby is skipping meals for two days, then you should be concerned enough to bring them in to the vet. You can often identify the broad category of why they aren't eating – whether from pain, from obvious illness or from something else – and can determine when to take them in accordingly.

How to Get a Sick Pup to Eat

If your fur baby doesn't want to eat but clearly needs to, there are ways you might be able to make food more attractive to them or more palatable and help them get it down. Even a little bit of food is better than nothing and can help hold you and your fur baby over until a vet appointment. Here are some options you can try.

Mix in a high-value food.

When your fur baby is sick, they probably don't find their usual kibble to be very attractive at all. And really, who would blame them? Hard little pellets of nondescript food material aren't very interesting. One of the most common ways to help your furry child eat is to mix in a little bit of something more attractive to them. We're talking flavorful, with an incredible aroma, something they'll love. Chicken, beef, and even a bit of bacon can be perfect here.

Ideally, you want to avoid something too fatty because fat can cause digestive issues. If you go with bacon, cook it well and drain the fat before mixing it in. Same with beef, get a lean cut or drain the fat first. Chicken is fine on its own, but a flavorful rotisserie chicken is often better than plain old chicken. Just make sure to pull off the skin and don't leave bones in the bowl.

Ideally, the more potent and attractive treat mixed into their food will get them to eat it. If they still turn their nose up at it, you should definitely be considering that emergency vet trip.

Relatedly, you can also try a treat. If you aren't ready or willing to give them a whole bowl of high-value food, giving them a treat or two might be enough to stimulate them into eating. It's more about the reminder that food is good than it is about the flavors and scents. Just be careful; you don't want to accidentally train your pooch to avoid eating in favor of treats.

Try a softer food.

If your fur baby isn't eating because of some kind of pain in their mouth or teeth, the idea of chewing through hard little kibbles will be enough to dissuade them from even trying to eat. If you've ever had a bad toothache, you probably know exactly what's going through their heads.

The obvious solution here is to try soft foods. You have a few ways to do this. First, you can soften their kibble by mixing in some water or a simple broth and letting it soak in. A softer kibble is an easier-to-eat kibble. Second, you can use a softer base food, like ground or minced beef or chicken. In a pinch, you can even try something like cooked and mashed carrots or even baby food if you want to buy some or have it on hand.

Warning: if you want to use broth to help stimulate your fur baby's appetite, make sure you get a healthy kind of broth. Many broths are made for humans and include ingredients like high sodium, onions, garlic, and some spices that can be dangerous for dogs. Try to get a broth without these, or in a pinch, make your own.

Similarly, you can heat up their food a bit. Warming up their food can make it more aromatic, which might not be pleasant for you or your microwave but can make it more appealing to their furry senses. Pouring some warm water or broth into their kibble to soften it can get you the best of both worlds.

If your fur baby goes for it, this can also give you a good idea of why they're averse to food, and you can get them in for a dental check-up ASAP. You don't want a dental injury to fester, after all.

Try a bit of exercise.

Illness feeds back into itself. When you're sick, you don't feel good, you don't have energy, and it can even hurt to move. But, the less you move around, the more stagnant you get, the less healthy your overall system is, and the more an illness can fester. The same, of course, holds true for our canine companions as well.

So, try to take your fur baby on a walk. Even something as simple as a slow meander around the yard can be enough to get them up and moving, circulate their blood, get their juices flowing, get them to go potty, and generally encourage their system to move. There's a reasonable chance that a walk – and the longer, the better – can stimulate their appetite enough to get them to eat, even if it's just half their usual meal.

Give hand-feeding a try.

Another option is to turn the illness into a bit of comfort and bonding by curling up on the floor with your pooch and a bowl of food and hand-feeding them a couple of kibbles at a time. The process of hand-feeding can be comforting enough to get them to try to eat, and once they get a little food in them, their hunger may come back and they'll get to eating out of the bowl there with you.

In more extreme cases, you may need to get a liquid kind of food and hand-feed your fur baby with a syringe. Usually, though, if you've reached this point, you should be taking them to the vet (an IV with nutrients will be more effective) rather than trying to manage such a severe issue at home.

Vet-prescribed appetite stimulants can help.

If your fur baby won't eat and is clearly ill, you may want to take them to the vet regardless. Your vet can prescribe certain medicinal appetite stimulants. This can also work to counteract the appetite suppressant effects of other medications, as necessary. Specific medications can include mirtazapine, meclizine, and ghrelin receptor agonists.

Another more medicinal option is trying some CBD drops. CBD has the potential to both ease pain and stimulate the appetite of your fur baby.

Canine CBD is made from hemp, is safe and non-toxic, and can be found in peanut butter-flavored tinctures for maximum attractiveness to your fur baby. Make sure you give them the proper dosage, and see if it helps make them hungrier. With luck, an application or two might be all you need to get the ball rolling, and the infusion of nutrients will then help them fight off whatever is making them ill.

Whatever options you choose, there are a lot of different ways to help encourage your furry companion to eat. It's only if they continually resist all efforts to feed them, or they can't keep food down at all, or if they have signs of more serious illness that you should rush them to the vet. Hopefully, that's not the case for you.

After reading today's article, do you have any questions? If you do, please feel free to let me know in the comments section! I'm always more than happy to help you all out however I can!

If you’re here because you’ve been given a firm or suspected FIP diagnosis, this post will give you a full understanding of what’s currently known about this terrible disease and what options you have for treatment.

Yes, I said treatment.

If your vet told you there is no treatment, they meant there is no FDA approved treatment, and we’ll get to that in a bit.

While this post will focus on educating you about the disease, I’m working on a post about my personal journey with my little Luca so you can read our first-hand experience.

If you’re a regular reader and here to learn, please share this knowledge with other cat parents so they can be familiar with this terrible disease. If you're reading this after receiving a diagnosis, know that there is a community standing by to support you.

Okay, let’s dig in.

What is FIP?

At its core, Feline Infectious Peritonitis or FIP is a disease caused by the mutation of the common, highly contagious feline enteric coronavirus (FECV). Before we dig into FIP, it’s helpful to understand how the virus that can cause this disease is transmitted.

Feline Enteric Coronavirus

FECV is an omnipresent virus that lives in the digestive tract of an infected cat and is shed through their feces. The virus is commonly passed to other cats through shared litter boxes and communal grooming.

Some cats with FECV will manage to clear the infection but are still at risk of becoming reinfected, while others will continue to carry the virus indefinitely and will continue to shed FECV in their stool.

Once infected, FECV usually presents as mild diarrhea, but an infected feline may also have vomiting or show signs of a respiratory infection. The good news is, most FECV infected cats will overcome their symptoms without any veterinary intervention.

It’s estimated that up to 90% of multi-cat households have been exposed to FECV.

You might be asking yourself, if there are so many FECV infections, and FIP comes from these infections, why have I never heard of it? The fact is most cats infected with FECV will never go on to develop the life-threatening disease known as FIP.

“In approximately 10 percent of cats infected with FeCV, one or more mutations of the virus can alter its biological behavior, resulting in white blood cells becoming infected with virus and spreading it throughout the cat’s body. When this occurs, the virus is referred to as the FIPV.” – Cornell College of Veterinary Medicine

In the illustration below, you can see that while many cats can be infected with FECV, only a portion of those will go on to have the virus mutate into FIPV, and even then, only a portion of those cats will develop FIP. Cats and kittens that remain carriers of FECV will go on to infect other cats.

If the cat is unable to clear the FIP virus (FIPV), it begins to infect their white blood cells leading to the disease known as FIP. Left untreated there is no chance of recovery.

History of FIP

While FIP may not be commonly known, that doesn’t mean it’s new. Jean Holzworth, DVM was one of the first to document the disease in 1963.

Even with decades of research, FIP remained an incurable disease. Diagnosis was a death sentence.

And while there is still an enormous number of questions left to answer, much of what we do know about FIP is thanks to the dedication of Dr. Niels Peterson and his life-long affinity to understand the disease.

Among other advances, Dr. Pedersen was the first to use an existing antiviral medication to successfully treat cats with FIP. His findings, published in 2018, gave hope to those with FIP infected cats.

Dr. Pedersen continues his research today along with his colleagues at UC Davis and researchers at other universities are taking up their own investigations.

There are currently two FIP clinical trials available to join.

For a complete history on FIP (1963 – 2022), check out this comprehensive review put together by UC Davis.

What are the Symptoms of FIP?

Here’s the most frustrating part of this disease, the symptoms can overlap with a bunch of other conditions, so it’s difficult to identify.

There are two main types of FIP wet (effusive) and dry (non-effusive), each with some more hallmark symptoms. There is also what can be considered a third form of FIP, which is a combination of the two. It’s also worth noting that one type can morph into the other.

Common Symptoms Of Both Wet and Dry FIP

While there are some symptoms that are more common to the specific type of FIP, there are five common symptoms that are seen across both.

These symptoms include:

• Lethargy
• Decreased appetite
• Enlarged lymph nodes
• Weight Loss
• Fever
• Unkempt coat

Wet FIP

If you search the web for “wet FIP” you’re going to find cats and kittens with enormous bellies full of fluid. It’s quite dramatic, but wet FIP won’t always show up in such an obvious fashion.

Fluid accumulates over time and collects in the abdomen or chest. Fluid in the chest is unlikely to be visible to the naked eye.

Common symptoms of wet FIP include:

• Anemia
• Jaundice
• Ascites - An enlarged abdomen filled with fluid
• Difficulty breathing
• Hyperglobulinemia and hypoalbuminemia

Dry FIP

As the name implies, dry FIP doesn’t have the excess fluid surrounding the organs. The symptoms can often be vague and tend to progress less rapidly than wet FIP.

Symptoms of dry FIP include:

• Anemia
• Diarrhea
• Granulomas in organs
• Hyperglobulinemia and hypoalbuminemia
• Neurological issues including, the inability or reluctance to jump, lameness, balance issues, poor litter box use, and seizures
• Eye issues including, uveitis, changes to the color of the iris, cloudiness, and/or blood in the eye

FIP Risk Factors

Since FIP mutates from the feline enteric coronavirus, multi-cat households, shelters, and catteries are all breeding grounds for FECV to spread. You can interpret this to mean your cat has likely already been exposed to FECV but is unlikely to develop FIP.

Several studies have shown multiple risk factors for developing FIP.

Age

A study in Australia that was published in 2012 found that of the 382 cases of confirmed FIP, 80% occurred in cats under the age of 2 years, and 50% of the cases were in kittens under the age of 7 months.

A 2014 study showed kittens older than 6 months showed an increased resistance to FIP. This is good news for if you have an adult cat.

All of this is to say, if you bring a new kitten into your home, it’s an important time to monitor their growth and development. While FIP can occur at any age, kittens are particularly susceptible.

Breed

Several studies have shown that pure bred cats are more susceptible to FIP. And certain breeds have a higher incidence than others.

“Abyssinians, Bengals, Birmans, Himalayans, Ragdolls and Rexes had a significantly higher risk” – Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery

If you decide to purchase one of these kittens, use a reputable breeder, and ask if they’ve had any cases of FIP in their kittens. If they say their queen has produced kittens that later went on to develop FIP, err on the side of caution and seek another breeder.

Sex

The same study found that there was no significant difference in the number of female versus male cats with FIP, but of these cats a significant number had not been neutered/spade.

This finding isn’t surprising given FIP is most commonly found in young kittens and it’s common practice to spay/neuter around 6 months of age.

Genetics

There is some belief that there may also be a genetic component that may make a kitty more susceptible to developing FIP.

“It is still unknown which exact genes harbor the mutation(s) leading to FIPV development.” - Diagnosis of Feline Infectious Peritonitis: A Review of the Current Literature

How is FIP Diagnosed?

Sadly, in most cases there is no one test that can definitively say your cat has FIP, but there are some tests that point to the disease.

Physical Examination & History

Armed with the symptoms you’ve been seeing at home, head to your vet for a physical exam. Your vet will perform an overall check looking for things such as enlarged lymph nodes, swelling in the belly, fever, neurological issues, eye changes, etc.

Tests

Your vet will likely want to start with some basic bloodwork to check for abnormal values including, but not limited to high serum proteins and anemia.

They can also use a blood sample to rule out FeLV, FIV, and toxoplasmosis, which can have symptom overlap with FIP.

Your vet may also want to perform an ultrasound to check for fluid in the belly or chest. This is a hallmark symptom of wet FIP. If fluid is found your vet will recommend aspiration to take a small sample of the fluid.

NOTE: If your cat has fluid in the belly, DO NOT let your vet fully drain the fluid if you’re considering treatment. If there is too much pressure, ask your vet to remove no more 25% of the fluid. Fluid in the chest should be completely drained.

Diagnosis is often a case of elimination and looking at your kitty’s symptoms and lab values as a whole. Your doctor may not be comfortable giving you a definitive diagnosis of FIP and depending on their experience, they may have trouble recognizing the disease.

What are the Treatment Options for FIP?

As of the end of 2023, there is still no FDA approved treatment option for FIP in cats, so vets will typically offer palliative care options or euthanasia.

There is a light in all this darkness thanks to Dr. Pedersen’s research, but let’s start with how your vet can help.

Palliative Care

In the event you’re not familiar with the term, palliative care is treatment that’s used to help alleviate symptoms of a disease, and it’s used most often in cases where a disease has no cure. The goal is to make the patient as comfortable as possible in the time they have left.

The only tools your vet has in their arsenal are anti-inflammatory medications and immunosuppressants. In combination these drugs may help to prolong your kitty’s life.

If your cat has wet FIP, your vet can also drain the fluid to allow your kitty to be more comfortable, however with the underlying disease remaining, the fluid will return.

In cases where a cat has severe anemia, a blood transfusion may be recommended.

While the above medications and procedures can help alleviate symptoms and may give your kitty a boost making them appear to be on the mend, the sad fact is the meds are doing nothing to address the underlying disease.

Palliative treatments will not save your kitty.

Anti-viral Treatment

A study conducted by Dr. Pedersen and colleagues at UC Davis (published in 2018) showed there was hope in GS-441524:

“In an experimental FIPV infection of cats, GS-441524 treatment caused a rapid reversal of disease signs and return to normality with as little as two weeks of treatment in 10/10 cats and with no apparent toxicity.”

With such promising results from the 2018 study, additional research was performed using GS-441524 and similar molecules to treat FIP in cats.

One such study published in 2021 showed a cure rate of 90% when using GS-441524 to treat FIP. Amazing right?!

Sadly, unless you live in the UK or Australia, your vet will not have access to this life-saving drug. GS-441524 metabolizes to Remdesivir (GS-5734) in the body.

Does the name Remdesivir sound familiar? It’s the drug that is provisionally approved to treat COVID-19 infections in humans.

Here’s the problem, the owner of the medicines, Gilead Sciences, doesn't seem to be onboard with allowing GS-441524 for veterinary use… at least not in the US.

“The fear was that performing the studies to secure FDA approval for GS-441524 in cats might hamper efforts to approve GS-5734 (now remdesivir) in humans because if studies using GS-441524 to treat cats had any adverse effects or undesirable results, this could influence the analysis of remdesivir for human use.” – American Animal Hospital Association

So how do we get access to this life-saving drug?

A group of volunteers looking to help save lives by connecting devastated pet parents with the medication they so desperately need.

How Do I Get Started with FIP Treatment?

First and foremost, always discuss any options with your vet. To get started with GS treatment, visit the FIP Warriors^® website or facebook group. There are volunteers working around the clock to connect you with the resources you’ll need to treat your kitty.

I spoke with Robin Kintz, the founder of FIP Warriors^®, and here's a message of hope she shared for all cat parents with newly diagnosed FIP cats and kittens:

“FIP is no longer a death sentence! With proper guidance and supportive veterinary care, 90% of FIP kitties can now be cured!” - Robin Kintz

You’ll get an estimate up front on what the cost will be for treatment, and you can buy the medication as you go, allowing you to spread the cost out over the course of treatment.

The FIP Warriors^® will connect you with a pet parent in your area that is treating their own kitty that will supply started meds and supplies.

Full disclosure, other than the wonderful and caring life-saving work FIP Warriors^® did for my Luca, I have no business relationship with or financial incentive to recommend this group.

What Can I Expect During GS Treatment for FIP?

There are two distinct phases of FIP treatment, on average each lasting 84 days. You’ll be assigned an FIP Warriors^® administrator that will guide you through the process from start to finish.

Your administrator will be a wealth of information having treated many FIP cats of their own and supported hundreds of pet parents through the years.

FIP Treatment Phases

The first 84 days of treatment is when you administer the GS medication. Many pet parents will start with an injectable medication and will continue with injections for all 84 days.

The dosage and brand are determined by the type of FIP, and the dose will increase as your kitty gains weight.

Injections are typically recommended to start because they are better absorbed through the subcutaneous injection rather than relying on the digestive tract, which may be compromised by the disease.

Some pet parents will be given the option to switch to pills further into treatment. Treatment with pills is more expensive, but typically much easier to administer.

Labs are typically recommended every 4 weeks during treatment to track progress.

Depending on the severity of the disease and how your kitty is responding to treatment, you may need to extend treatment past the minimum 84 days.

What you need to know for treating your cat at home.

A pet parent with a geriatric cat may have more experience and be better prepared for the requirements of at home treatment. This includes weighing your kitty, taking their temperature, giving them pills and injections, and in some cases subcutaneous fluids.

Every kitty is different and additional medications may be needed to support their recovery. It’s important to have a vet that will provide supportive care should you decide to begin treatment. While they won’t be able to advise you on the GS medication, they can provide supportive care for other symptoms your kitty is experiencing.

The GS medication itself is viscous, think pushing honey vs water through a syringe. It’s also very acidic, making it quite painful for many kitties to receive and if the medication leaks onto their skin it can result in sores.

While many parents do treatment alone, it tends to be much easier when you have an extra set of hands, one person to hold your kitty, one person to inject.

Treatment can be emotionally draining and there will be good days and bad. What helps parents continue with the process is the improvement they see in their kitty and the support they receive from other parents in the same situation.

If you’re familiar with the Kitten Lady, Hannah Shaw, she treated her cat Coco for FIP, and Coco is now cured! Check out this video where she talks about her experience:

FIP Observation Phase

This milestone begins when you’ve been given the green light to stop administering the GS medication.

During this period, you’ll watch your kitty to ensure none of their original symptoms return. You’ll monitor their weight, their activity level, their appetite, etc.

You’ll also have bloodwork checkpoints during the observation period.

If your kitty backslides and begins to show symptoms, you’ll begin treating with the GS medication again, oftentimes at a higher dosage. If the observation period is uneventful, your kitty will be considered cured.

Coping with an FIP Diagnosis

You may have left your vet’s office being told your kitty has a terminal illness and euthanasia is your only option. Or perhaps your vet puts their veterinary license at risk by telling you about a treatment plan that you’ll have to pursue on your own. Either way, you’re leaving their office gutted and scared for your fur baby. I get it.

Maybe you are like me, waiting for additional labs to come back desperately hoping there is some other cause of your cat’s symptoms, but still diving into FIP research to understand what the diagnosis might really mean.

One thing I can confidently tell you is the FIP Warriors^® are a community that will support you whether you decide to try treatment or not. They will answer all of your questions, encourage you when you are down, and will share their vast experience to help you through the process.

Veterinary Treatment for FIP Has Arrived in the US

Did you hear that? Celebratory cries are heard throughout the US as we finally have a treatment for FIP available through your vet! Beginning in June 2024 your vet will now be able to prescribe GS medication if your cat is diagnosed with FIP. It's worth noting this drug is still not yet approved by the FDA, but as of the writing of this update they have no plans to seek enforcement and a formal review is underway.

The vet prescribed GS therapy is only available in an oral tablet. This is a much easier option for pet parents to administer, and is equal efficacy-wise to the injection options. With that said, pills do have a limitation. The gut has be be functioning well to absorb the medication. For kitties with gastrointestinal involvement pills tend to pass through quickly preventing full absorption of the live saving medication. For a kitty that has a late diagnosis or problems absorbing the pill, injections might be the only solution to get enough medication into your kitty's system - at least in the short-term. Please talk to your vet if you have concerns about absorption and consider reaching out to the FIP Warriors^® for advice on your kitty's specific situation.

FIP Frequently Asked Questions

Is FIP Contagious?

No, FIP is not contagious. There is often confusion around this topic because the virus (FECV) that has the potential to mutate into the FIP virus is highly contagious.

Do I need to separate my other cats from my FIP cat?

No. Odds are your other kitties have already been infected with FECV, but that does not mean they will go on to develop FIP.

Is GS Treatment Expensive?

Yes, it is. On a positive note, many cat parents create fundraisers to help with the cost, and in a community facing the same fight, small donations add up to make a significant difference.

How do I get the medication to treat my cat with FIP?

Contact FIP Warriors^® at https://fipwarriors.com/ or on their facebook page to connect with volunteers that will connect you with the resources you’ll need for treatment.

Why do some websites say they can provide medication cheaper?

Sadly, there are people in this world that are looking to take advantage of others. These people often try to pass off fake medications or use medications from sellers that are not reputable. Ensuring your kitty gets enough medication is imperative to their success. The FIP Warriors^® do batch testing to ensure the brands they use are of the highest quality available. Do not trust anyone that guarantees a cure. While GS treatment has a high success rate, it does not cure every cat.

Where can I learn more about FIP?

sockFIP.org is a non-profit organization that consolidates a wealth of research information related to FIP. You can learn more about research that is taking place globally to better understand this horrible disease.

Have you ever had a cat or kitten diagnosed with FIP? If so, what type, wet/dry? What treatment method(s) if any did you try? Share the story of your warrior in the comments below. While we love stories with happy outcomes, we also know that’s not the ending to every story. Don’t let that stop you from honoring your warrior.

At least, that is, when they aren't in playtime mode, just hunting for the joy of hunting, and they aren't making mistakes, slipping on the hardwood, sliding into walls, or missing the mark entirely.

Alright, so our fur babies aren't always the ferocious predators they were when they first evolved. But that's okay! We love them and pamper them just the same. They no longer need to hunt for their very survival every day.

Of course, this really makes you think. Are they losing out or missing something?

Truthfully, the answer is… maybe.

The Perils of the Modern Feline Diet

As it stands right now, our fur babies don't need to hunt for food, but that doesn't mean they're satisfied with what they get. When we buy food off the shelves, whether it's dry food or canned wet food, we do our best to make sure they're getting what they need.

The trouble is, all too often, these foods aren't quite right. They may have fillers in them that your cat can't quite digest or that they digest but aren't really very healthy for them. That's not even considering the issues with contaminated foods or foods where the manufacturers cut corners. We're talking about the higher-quality foods here.

In fact, two of the most common diseases our feline friends suffer from today are linked to their diets.

• Obesity. It's easy to over-feed and over-eat, and cats – who aren't used to the fillers and additives in the foods, the caloric density, and the ingredients themselves – put on more weight than they would in nature. Moreover, without needing to hunt for it, they don't necessarily burn as many of those calories, so they build up and lead to an overweight feline. Sadly, as funny and adorable as a chonker is, it's not healthy or good for them.
• Diabetes mellitus. Diabetes is a problem with processing blood sugar, and it's an epidemic amongst many different species, including both people and cats. Cats are obligate carnivores – they have to eat meat to survive – and that means they're more susceptible to fillers and carbohydrates in their food causing problems with insulin, leading to diabetes.

Since these diseases are so tied to diet and they're so common, vets and scientists have been spending a lot of time studying how cats eat naturally to see if there are ways we can improve their diets to help eliminate the risk of these diseases.

"Carbohydrate levels in commercial diets are often much too high. Cats have not evolved to digest high amounts of starches, only obtaining a small amount of partially digested matter from the stomach contents of their prey. They have insufficient enzymes in their saliva and pancreas glands to process these complex sugars, and will often overeat, leading to a multitude of problems." – NP Vet Group.

What Natural Feeding Isn't

Natural feeding is a response to the artificial diets we've been feeding cats as a society for decades, but there can be some misconceptions around the name. So, first, let's talk a bit about what natural feeding isn't before we get into what it is.

Some people think that natural feeding involves buying prey animals to let your cat hunt and eat on their own. People buy "pinkies" for snakes and lizards, after all. Isn't it the same sort of thing for cats?

Well, not really. For one thing, pinkies – which are baby mice, named such because they don't even have fur yet – are already dead. Cats hunt things that are alive and moving and aren't going to put much effort into or have much interest in already dead food. They'll eat it if they have to, but it's not the kind of natural hunting you might think of when you think of a cat stalking prey.

There are also the ethical considerations. Most people don't think twice about the source of the ingredients in their cat's food, but when you're buying animals to feed to your cat, the abstraction is removed, and you see it in front of you, and it might not feel very good. Of course, imposing human ethics on nature isn't always a good idea. That's how you end up with bad cat parents forcing their felines to go vegan, and that's a terrible idea.

Fortunately, natural feeding doesn't actually involve hunting at all. It's all about what you feed, not how you feed.

Besides, natural hunting for cats is also full of risks.

• Prey can fight back. Birds have beaks and talons, rodents can bite and scratch, and insects can sting. Every hunt is a risk, and cats in the wild are routinely injured in the hunt. Even small injuries can result in infections as well. Obviously, we don't want that for our domestic felines.
• Prey can carry diseases and parasites. While you wouldn't get this if you were buying food-bred prey animals for your cat, cats in the wild are always at risk of eating something that gives them worms, fleas, or another disease.

Luckily, this isn't what we mean when we talk about natural feeding at all.

Natural feeding also doesn’t automatically mean raw feeding, though it is an option. We’ll get into that more later.

How Natural Feeding for Cats Works

Natural feeding is all about coming up with a diet that most closely mimics what a cat needs to be healthy, based on two things: habits and content.

Habits mean how they eat. We humans tend to eat 2-3 big meals in a day, or one big meal and snacks throughout the day. That's not necessarily natural; as hunter-gatherers, we likely foraged and ate small amounts throughout the day, with "big meals" being a rarity.

While cats often live in colonies, they are solo hunters, and they are used to having a warm meal.

They also tend to hunt whenever the opportunity strikes, and since their prey is small, they frequently need to hunt multiple times in a day. Hunts also fail, and the prey gets away. Combined, this means that cats are similar in that they would eat smaller, more frequent meals than we people usually give them.

Content means what they eat. Cats, being obligate carnivores, get all the nutrients they need from a combination of protein and fat – that is to say, meat. Very little of what they eat involves carbohydrates or dietary fiber, and while they'll certainly chew on grass and plants for both flavor and digestive purposes, it's a very small part of their diet.

"One study looked at how feral cats get their food. It showed that a "typical" feral cat will kill and eat approximately nine mice throughout the day, with a number of unsuccessful hunts scattered in as well. Another paper revealed that feral cats got 52% of their calories from protein and 46% from fat, which only leaves 2% available to come from carbohydrates.

So, left to their own devices, cats will eat multiple small meals throughout the day that are high in protein, high in fat, and low in carbohydrates. But that's not all. These cats have to work to get their food. Their behavior is characterized by periods of rest broken up by short bursts of relatively intense activity." - PetMD.

Another part of feeding, water consumption. While cats in the wild get most of their water content from the food they eat, when they do drink, they naturally avoid stagnant water to avoid illness. The moving water that they choose is not confined to a small bowl, which for some cats can cause whisker fatigue.

So, natural feeding means feeding your cat smaller, more frequent meals and making sure the food they eat is nutritionally balanced for their needs. You want a food that's high in protein, moderately high in fat, and very low in carbohydrates.

You have two options here: you can make your own cat food, or you can buy a food designed with natural feeding in mind. Even "good" commercial cat foods tend to be higher in carbohydrates than a cat should really have, though, so it can be tricky to find something good for your furry friend. Wet food is also preferable because cats get a lot of their water requirements from it and might not drink enough if they primarily eat kibble and dry foods.

Key Takeaways for Naturally Feeding Your Cat

• Provide smaller, more frequent meals
• Feed a high meat-based protein, moderate fat, and low carbohydrate food
• Serve the meal slightly warmed
• Have a good play session before each meal
• Provide a water fountain for fresh moving water

Building a Healthy Natural Feeding Meal

Odds are you have a job and maybe a family to tend to, so becoming a servant to your cat (well more than you already are) can be a challenge.

If you have the time and financial means you may want to consider switching from a traditional canned wet food to a raw or homemade diet. Natural feeding isn’t an all or nothing concept, you can always make small changes to your feeding process.

Given a cat’s need for a high protein diet, I don’t recommend feeding dry food, though it can be a great option to use as a treat since it’s lower in calories compared to traditional treats.

Raw and Homemade Diets

Unsurprisingly, a lot goes into a healthy diet for your fur baby. Unfortunately, many people think meat is meat and assume a ground chicken, turkey, or beef from the grocery store is going to be good enough. Even store-bought fish isn't good enough on its own.

"Many people mistake raw pet meats and minces available from their supermarket or pet shop as being a complete food. This is often not the case, with many just being minced muscle meat only, severely lacking in the important minerals and vitamins required to keep a cat healthy. This puts your cat at risk of developing nutritional diseases. Some pet minces also contain sulphur-based preservatives, which not only have been linked to asthma in cats but also inactivate some important B vitamins. Fish also contains some enzymes which can reduce the availability of essential thiamine in the diet." – NP Vet Group.

So, what do you do?

Rotate through different meats throughout the week. Chicken and fish are both good options and for a third, you might consider locating a source of something like rabbit or even a "pest" meat like possum or a rodent. If you can't find it, that's fine, but you'll want to keep to a lower amount of beef or pork than you would the meats your cat would be more likely to encounter in the wild.

See if you can source whole meats instead of just muscle meats. A working relationship with a butcher can be great here. Your goal would be to get ground meat that has calcium from ground bones in it and nutrient-rich marrow as well. You won't find this for human consumption, though.

Get your cat started on raw "meaty bones" occasionally. The two most common and useful here are chicken wings and chicken necks. The bones are just the right size that your cat can strip the meat off them without risking hurting themselves chewing on the bones, and raw bones aren't as splintery or prone to danger as cooked bones.

Add in some organ meat from time to time. Heart meat is great for cats – it's high in taurine, a nutrient cats need to live. Liver, meanwhile, can be dangerous in high amounts, so only give your cat a little bit at a time.

Other tips:

• Make your cat food regularly. Keeping it frozen for too long reduces its nutrient profile, particularly in vitamins.
• Don't leave food out for long. Meat goes bad, obviously, and you don't want to have a bowl of rotting meat sitting around.
• Avoid meats with preservatives, especially if you're starting with ground meats or minces. It can be worthwhile to invest in a food processor or meat grinder yourself instead.
• Take it slow. Adapting a cat from a kibble diet to a natural feeding diet can be time-consuming if they don't take to it right away. You may also need to lightly poach or cook the meat initially.
• Add in supplements or meal completers. It’s incredibly important to ensure your kitty is getting all of the nutrients necessary to keep their body operating in optimal form, so if their raw diet is lacking in any area, be sure to supplement their food. Some common supplements include, vitamin E, fiber, omega 3, and taurine.

WARNING: Feeding a raw diet can introduce harmful bacteria into your household including, but not limited to salmonella and listeria. If you opt to feed a raw diet to your kitty, ensure you practice impeccable food safety practices when handling all meat. You’ll also want to ensure you only purchase high quality, fresh meat, as bacteria and germs can flourish in uncooked meat.

Commercially Prepared Diets

I’m including this section, because as I noted above, a natural diet doesn’t have to be all or nothing.

If you’re currently feeding dry only, add wet food into the mix, or if you can, transition primarily or fully to wet food.

Canned wet foods come in many different levels of quality, so before picking one it’s important to read the label. Remember you’re looking for a wet food that is primarily animal protein based, which means at the very least, the first ingredient should be an animal source.

There are also some freshly prepared cooked options available through mail order. These meals are a great alternative if you don’t have time to make a homemade diet as they already include the necessary nutrients to ensure your kitty is getting a balanced diet.

Fresh meals also tend to be made in small batches right here in the US but be sure to learn about the quality and source of the ingredients.

Above all, though, make sure you talk to a vet about this potential dietary shift. Some cats, especially older cats with health issues or a predilection for them, may need special care when shifting to a natural feeding diet. Others may need special supplements or medications to help keep them healthy, particularly those who normally eat special formulated foods.

Natural feeding can be a great way to keep a cat happier and healthier and give them a longer and more fulfilling life. So, if you're interested in learning more about natural feeding diets, there are plenty of resources available. And if you have any questions, feel free to ask me in the comments!

So, what happens if you find a tick on your poor pupper?

Chances are, they haven't even really noticed, so it's up to you to do something about it. Here's a five-step process on how to deal with a tick on your dog.

Inspecting Your Pup for Ticks

Often times pet parents will find a tick when they feel a mysterious bump that wasn’t previously there.

It’s recommended that you inspect your pup after each walk. I get it, that’s a lot to ask. A more reasonable recommendation is to inspect your pup anytime they are romping around in tall grass, and after hikes through wooded areas.

Ticks that transmit disease do so after different periods of time. Diseases such as Lyme usually require a tick to be attached for more than 24 hours, so time is of the essence in locating those little buggers.

There are several spots ticks will likely take up residence, so pay particularly close attention to the following locations when inspecting your pup for ticks:

Step 1: Gather Materials

Removing a tick is generally pretty easy, but you want to have some items on hand to make it easier, safer, and faster. The key here is having supplies on hand before you actually need them. Think of it like a first aid kit for your pup.

First, you want something to remove a tick. There are a bunch of different tools to do this, which I'll talk about in the next step, but if you don’t have one, you can just use tweezers.

You'll also want something to protect yourself from potential tick-borne illnesses. Inexpensive disposable latex gloves are great to have on hand for all sorts of reasons, and in this case they can protect you from touching the tick or from it biting you after you remove it.

You'll want a resealable baggy you can seal up, along with some damp paper towel. This will help you preserve the tick so you can bring it to your vet for testing and to identify whether or not it's carrying diseases.

Finally, you'll want some aftercare materials, like soap or an antiseptic, to help make sure the bite doesn't get infected. If you go the antiseptic route, make sure it’s made for dogs.

You may also want to have a treat on hand in case your fur baby doesn't want to sit still or is stressed out by you messing with that irritating bite on their skin. A little bribe or distraction can go a long way to getting your pup to stay still.

Step 2: Remove the Tick

There are a lot of different ways to remove ticks.

I'll talk about a few different options here, as well as some things you should avoid doing.

The Tweezer Method

Perhaps the most common way to remove a tick from your fur baby is to use tweezers. We all have tweezers floating around for the stray splinter, bee stinger, or other object caught in the skin, and a tick is not so different.

It’s important to note that you should use fine tipped tweezers, not the wider versions that are often used to pluck eye brows or remove splinters.

To use tweezers to remove a tick, follow this process.

• Pull fur back and away from the tick so you have as clear a view of it as possible. It's not going to try to run and hide; it's latched onto the skin where it sits. You want to avoid pulling fur along with the tick.
• Place the tweezers around the tick’s head as close to the skin as possible. 
• Grasp firmly, but don't squeeze too hard. You don't want to squish or rupture the tick.
• Pull straight out and away from the skin to remove the tick.

Do not twist as you pull. You want to remove the tick as completely and cleanly as possible, and you want to avoid forcing it to vomit it’s stomach contents back into the bite, which is a primary vector for transmitting disease.

If the tick breaks and leaves the head or mouthparts behind, you can try to remove them as well, or you can leave them where they are. As the bite heals, your fur baby's skin will push the remaining bits out, and pulling and picking at them might cause irritation and infection.

The Tick Remover Method

The tick remover method is similar to the tweezers method, except it dramatically reduces the risk of squeezing or breaking the tick when you remove it. That's because they're designed to slide under the tick and use leverage to pull it up and away without needing to squeeze or grasp it.

Here are some examples of designs:

• Tick Twisters, which resemble the claw side of a hammer. They slide under the tick and with a few twists they remove them. Yep, I said twist. Because this tool doesn’t put pressure on the mouth or body, the twisting motion appears to be a safe option.
• Tick Keys, which work in more or less the same way but with a smaller form factor, designed to easily hang on a keychain so you always have it with you. Note that the narrow end is the leverage end and can push into your dog's skin and cause irritation if you need to use it a lot.
• Tick Checks, which are more like a fancy set of tweezers with easy-to-use handles for more leverage.

I don’t personally have experience with any of these tools, so read verified reviews and ask friends and family what’s work best for them.

What Not to Do

There are a lot of different instructions on how to remove ticks, but a lot of them are actually dangerous to your fur baby.

I already mentioned twisting up above, but here are a couple of others. Note that some products, like the Tick Tornado, tell you to twist to remove ticks; this is actually dangerous and, while it certainly removes the ticks, increases the chance of disease spreading to your fur baby. Just don't do it.

Don't use chemicals to smother the tick. Things like gasoline, Vaseline, rubbing alcohol, or other chemicals are meant to smother the tick and make it back out and away from a hazardous environment. The problem is, in their struggle to get away, they almost always vomit back into the bite, which dramatically increases the chance of disease spreading to your fur baby.

Don't use a match. There's a piece of folk wisdom that says using a match to scald the back end of a tick will make it back out and flee. For the same reasons as above, this can spew disease back into your dog, and it also makes the tick less recognizable and harder to identify if you bring it to the vet.

In addition to the risk of spreading disease, these methods also can hurt your fur baby. Anything like this that irritates the skin, especially around an already-irritated spot like a tick bite, can be rough for your pup.

Check out this great video on the dos and don’ts of removing a tick:

Step 3: Save the Tick

Your damp paper towel is used to wrap up the tick to keep it hydrated and identifiable when you bring it to the vet. The zippered baggy is there to contain it so it doesn't crawl away and hide (or bite something else) before you can bring it in. If the tick dies, that's fine; you just don't want it to dissolve or rot, and you want to bring it to the vet as soon as you can for testing and identification.

Why should you save the tick? After all, the vet probably knows all about ticks in the area, right?

Well, two reasons. The first is that ticks aren't static. They can migrate, move, and spread, and their areas are always changing. It's entirely possible you live on a border of a kind of tick, and seeing that it's there can help a vet spread the word and report back to central health authorities for more accurate information.

The second and most important reason is so that your vet can run tests on the tick. These tests will identify whether or not the tick is carrying diseases. Tick-borne diseases can be dangerous and include:

• Lyme Disease, which can cause lethargy, muscle and joint aches, and enlarged lymph nodes.
• Canine Bartonellosis, which is rare but can cause lameness, fever, liver disease, and heart disease.
• Rickettsial Diseases, which are bacterial parasites that are spread by ticks.
• Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, which causes symptoms like lethargy, fever, and a poor appetite, and can even cause neurological problems.

Different ticks can transmit different types of diseases, and the list above is just  a few of them; here's a list of many other tick borne diseases. Tick diseases can be dangerous, but they're also generally treatable, especially if you catch them early. By testing the tick, the vet can tell you what, if anything, you need to watch out for and how it may present.

Step 4: Clean the Wound

The next step is to clean the bite wound. You want to do this to help prevent it from getting infected, which will cause a whole host of problems for your pup.

Once you've removed the tick and, if necessary, any remaining mouthparts, you'll want to wash the area with soap and water or an antiseptic solution. These will help kill off anything like bacteria in the area and can promote the healing of the skin.

After this, keep an eye on your pup and watch for symptoms. Similarly, keep an eye on the bite site to make sure it doesn't get red, inflamed, or show other signs of infection. 

Finally, make sure you clean all of your tools  so they are ready for the next use.

Step 5: Call Your Vet

Finally, when all is said and done, you should call your vet. You don't need to rush your fur baby to an emergency appointment, but you may need to stop in to hand over the tick for testing and may or may not want to bring your fur baby in to have them looked at as well. Just listen to what the vet says when you tell them you pulled a tick off your dog, and they'll tell you what to do next.

Other than that, unless your vet gives you specific instructions, you're probably good to go. Just keep an eye on your fur baby for any potential signs of a tick-borne disease, keep an eye out for other ticks, and go on about your life.

Preventing Ticks on Your Dog

If you landed on this post because you found a tick, you’re at least armed with the information you need to remove it. And while it’s difficult to 100% avoid ticks there are some things you can do to lower the chances of your pup picking one up.

Use a Flea & Tick Preventative

Believe it or not, not all monthly flea treatments include tick prevention, so check the brand you’re using to ensure you’re covered.

You’ll also want to check which species of ticks it covers, and which ones are common in your area to ensure your pup is getting the protection they need. Also consider what life stages they cover. For full coverage, you need larva, nymph, and adult.

Check out the chart below for some examples of tick coverage in common preventatives.

Ticks obviously aren’t the only concern when it comes to prevention, so talk with your vet to see what’s best for your pup.

Ticks obviously aren’t the only concern when it comes to prevention, so talk with your vet to see what’s best for your pup.

Another key factor here is ensuring you keep up with regular treatment. Set a reminder to ensure there is no lapse in coverage, and use caution if you stop in winter months as some ticks can survive colder temps.

Make Your Yard Less Tick Friendly

If you have a yard, odds are your pup spends a lot of time running around enjoying the space. The key here is trying to make it as safe as possible, and there are several steps you can take to improve your pup’s safety.

• Cut your grass regularly and remove any tall grass along the tree lines where your pup has access.
• Remove leaves.
• Discourage wild animals from visiting your yard.
  • Do not leave out food.
  • Secure trash cans.
  • Consider plants/flowers that are less desirable to deer.

Frequently Asked Questions about Ticks on Dogs

There's a lot to know about ticks on dogs, so let's talk about some of the more common questions I receive about it.

Where are you most likely to find ticks?

Ticks tend to like small, cramped, out-of-the-way places, like folds in skin, joints, and even between the toes. They want to be harder to get to, out of the way of being brushed off, and near where blood is close to the surface of the skin. Check under joints, around the groin, around the face, and between the toes.

Can a tick that bit my dog also bite me?

Yes! If a tick naturally falls off or is brushed off but survives, it can find its way to another source of food, and ticks aren't picky. Anything with blood is something they'll try to bite, and that can include you.

How long do ticks hang around?

This one depends. A tick that's feeding might stay between 3-7 days before detaching and going somewhere to lay eggs. However, if your dog has an active anti-tick treatment or an immune reaction to the tick, it might actually stick around longer trying to feed.

How can I prevent ticks in the first place?

As I mentioned above, you can make your yard less friendly to ticks, but unfortunately, it's almost impossible to completely prevent them. Any time you take your dog for a walk, and they can encounter external plants, there's a possibility of a tick showing up. I wrote a guide on repelling ticks here.

When are ticks most active?

Ticks can show up any time of the year, though places where it freezes and snows are less likely to have ticks show up in those winter months. In contrast, warmer and moist summer months are the peak times for ticks.

Are there natural ways to remove and prevent ticks?

Yes! In fact, I wrote a whole guide to natural remedies to help prevent ticks from sticking around and to remove them if they show up anyway. You can read it here.

Do you have any other questions I haven't covered? If so, please leave them in the comments below so I can answer. I look forward to it!

Most of the time, those consequences end up being a bit of embarrassment, a few bad smells, or maybe a bruise, scrape, or allergic reaction. Sometimes, though, it can be a little more pronounced and a little scarier.

One of the scarier symptoms you can come across with a feline friend is swollen paws. It's not the kind of symptom you see very often, so it can be very concerning when you see it, especially if you also see your furry child limping around or avoiding moving just to avoid stepping on the foot that is all swollen up.

It's even worse if more than one is swollen. It tugs at the heartstrings, and of course, it makes you concerned whether or not it's a serious problem worthy of a trip to the emergency vet.

So, let's talk about it. Before you get yourself worked up into a panic, let's go over the various possible causes of swollen cat paws, how serious they may be, and how to handle them.

Is a Swollen Cat Paw Cause for Concern?

While it's always concerning to see your pet pal in some kind of distress, is a swollen paw something worth a trip to the vet for, or is it less severe?

Thankfully, it's almost always the latter. There are a bunch of different possible causes for a swollen paw, but most of them aren't so serious as to need emergency attention.

It's only in a few cases where emergency attention is necessary, and I'll make sure to note that when I discuss it later.

You should, however, certainly call your vet at the first opportunity. They can examine your furry child to make sure nothing else is wrong, like a fractured or broken toe, an infection, or something that needs cleaning or stitches.

From there, of course, follow their advice, and if they want to see your fur baby right away, do so.

What Are the Symptoms of a Swollen Cat Paw?

While the obvious symptom is, well, obvious – the paw is swollen – you might not notice it right away. In fact, whatever that silly feline got into to cause the problem can have a delayed reaction, and you might not notice swelling right away because it hasn't swollen up yet.

Think of it like this. You twist your ankle. It’s not horrible, just a little painful, and you think I’ll just walk it off instead of resting and icing. Over time you start to see swelling until you finally admit there might be a little more to your injury that you need to tend to.

So, what are some other symptoms you might notice?

• Frequent biting or licking at a paw. Cats don't have a lot of tools at their disposal to deal with pain and illness, so they generally try to lick and nibble at whatever is bothering them as a way to soothe and prod at it. If there's something stuck in their paw like a thorn, they'll be trying to get it out, even if they don't really have a good way to do so.
• Reduced mobility or limping. If you injure your foot, you don't want to put weight on it; if you injure a hand, you don't want to use it. The same goes for your fur baby. If they injure a foot, they don't want to put weight on it, so they'll limp around and avoid doing so. They may also just choose not to move much and will curl up in their comfort space and not leave it for much of anything.
• Reduced appetite. This one is especially common in cases where your fur baby is in pain or where they have an infection. They just won't feel good, so they won't want to do much, including eating. This is a good indication that something is wrong enough that you should bring them to the vet.

There are also two signs of infection that you should watch out for. If you see either or both of them, make sure you bring your fur baby to the vet ASAP; antibiotics may be critical to preventing further pain, damage, and danger.

• Abnormally hot paws. Cats naturally run a little hotter than we do – their body temperatures are around 101 to 102.5 degrees – but their paws, being extremities, will be a little cooler. If their paws are hot to the touch, it can be a sign of inflammation, which is most often a sign of an infection that needs addressing.
• Foul discharge from the paw. This is a sure sign of an infection. When pus or another awful ooze is coming from the paw, it's probably because of some kind of injury that got infected. This can be anything from something in the nail bed to something in one of those adorable toe beans to a cut that just didn't heal. Either way, it's vet time.

Now, what actually causes these problems? Let's dig in.

The Causes of Swollen Cat Paws

There are a bunch of possible causes of swelling in a paw. That's because swelling is a natural reaction to pretty much any kind of injury or invasion of the body and is part of the natural healing process. A tiny bit of swelling is fairly normal, even, but it's still worth addressing because we, as pet parents, can help.

Cause #1: Insect Bites or Stings

The first and one of the most common causes of a swollen paw is an insect bite or sting. Cats have a fierce internal hunting instinct, and they love to pounce on, play with, and swat at bugs around them. Sometimes, it's a fly, aka a delicious sky raisin. Other times, it's something that ends up tasting or smelling awful and driving away your kitty. Aside from the yuck factor, there is usually no harm done.

The issue is those cases where the bug can fight back, and bites or stings. Bees, wasps, hornets, some spiders, particularly vicious ants.

Insect bites and stings usually have some kind of venom that further drives the point home. It'll sting, of course, and that pain is meant to drive off whatever predator was trying to eat them. That venom will cause localized swelling that can last for anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours.

Two things can make this worse. The first is when the stinger breaks off or sticks in the paw. Honeybees are notorious for doing this, which is why they don't sting very often; it's deadly to them, so it's a last resort. Wasps and other stinging insects can sting more than once and don't lose their stingers, so they are less hesitant to sting when in defense mode.

The second issue is when your fur baby is allergic to the venom. Their paw, or even their whole leg, can swell up, and in serious cases it can even cause trouble breathing. If you suspect your kitty is having trouble breathing, head straight to the emergency vet.

I wrote more about allergies in cats over here, so be sure to check it out!

Cause #2: Foreign Bodies

The term "foreign body" refers to anything not naturally part of the cat invading the body of the cat.

If you allow your fur baby outside, whether supervised or not, there are lots of little pokey items waiting to be picked up. So, what happens if they step on a nettle, a thornbush, one of those bee stingers that sticks in the foot, the barbed tip of a fishhook, a bit of wood, or another small, sharp bit of debris?

Well, that bit of sharp substance can end up stuck in their paw. Maybe it's between toes, or around nails, or lodged in a toe bean. Whatever the case, it's stuck there, and like a tenacious splinter, it's not always going to be easy to get out.

Luckily, these are rarely dangerous, just irritating. You can handle this in a bunch of ways, including just removing the object with tweezers if you can get a grip on it.

"If you are certain that the swollen paw was due to a minor problem such as a thorn you have removed, soak the paw in a mixture of one-gallon fresh cool water with two tablespoons of two percent chlorhexidine added. Chlorhexidine is an antiseptic that is available at many drugstores. However, it's always wise to check with their vet even if the problem seems to be minor since the chance of infection is always present, and the foreign object can move deeper into the paw as time passes, making it more difficult to retrieve." – Love To Know Pets.

Your kitty can still be susceptible to a foreign body if they are indoor only. Pokey items such as pine needles can be tracked inside.

Décor items can have pieces that break off, and let’s not even talk about that mug that shattered into a million pieces that you thought you cleaned up (yeah this might have just happened in my house, though no toe beans have been injured (knock on wood)).

Any minor injury with a foreign body requires you to clean the wound and make sure it doesn't get infected, so keep an eye on it until things look like they're healing.

Cause #3: Injuries

The third possible cause is any of the many possible injuries that can happen to a paw. Cats can only really interact with the world in a few ways, the main one of which being their paws, so of course, those paws are at risk of being injured when the world doesn't want to be messed with.

Cuts, bruises, scrapes, burns, anything that injures the paw can cause swelling. As long as there's nothing lodged in the paw – and you should check – these issues will generally heal in a few days.

That said, more serious problems can require immediate vet attention. Examples might include:

• Serious burns. If you had a hot stove and your fur baby stepped on it, medical intervention will likely be needed for pain and to prevent infection.
• Serious cuts. In cases where a cut is bad enough that it requires stitches, exposes tendons or bones, or otherwise won't just heal up in a few days on its own.
• Injuries that may be more than skin-deep. If a nail was pulled out, a toe may be fractured or broken.

This is also where heat can be a sign of an infection and means you should bring them to the vet ASAP.

Cause #4: Nail Problems

While we often think of cats being able to deal with their claws naturally by scratching, it's actually a good idea to keep their nails trimmed.

Just like human nails, claws can continue to grow if not maintained. Nails that grow too long can lead to problems and I’m not just talking about your furniture.

Claws, and long ones in particular can get caught on things and tear, bend, twist, or otherwise injure the toe they're attached to. They can also get caught and ripped out in extreme cases.

Another extreme case is when the nail keeps growing unchecked for too long; it keeps its natural curl and curls more and more until it curls back into the foot itself and can puncture the toe bean.

That can then be a huge irritant and even a source of infection. A young healthy cat doesn't usually let their nails get that long, but if they're sick or old or it hurts to scratch at things, overgrowth is possible.

The opposite of all of these is nails that are cut too short. You've heard of being "cut to the quick"? Well, the "quick" is the blood vessel in the center of a nail that keeps it healthy and allows it to grow. Cutting more than just the white tip will hit the blood vessel and nerves causing your kitty pain.

When your kitty goes scratching in the litterbox, this injury can allow germs to take of residence leading to a possible infection, which can cause swelling and will need attention.

Cause #5: Cancer

Nobody likes to hear the C-word, and thankfully, it's pretty unlikely to be the cause of foot swelling in a cat.

However, cancers can spread anywhere in the body, and that means places like the paw pads, nail beds, and toe joints. You might be surprised to learn a type of lung cancer called lung-digit syndrome can cause swelling in the paw.

If the swollen paw appears to be more of a lump rather than swelling, it doesn’t automatically mean it’s cancerous. There are several cause of lumps and bumps that can show up on your kitty.

Thankfully, almost all cases where your cat has a swollen paw are not going to be the big C; they're going to be fairly obvious, direct sources of injury that can be treated right away and handled by a vet or even just with some home treatments.

Cause #6: Infection or Disease

Those adorable toe beans are unfortunately not immune to infections and diseases.

Pillow Foot

We reviewed some of the symptoms of infection above, heat, oozing, etc., but if your kitty’s paw pad has inflated like a balloon, they may be suffering from feline plasma cell pododermatitis (PCP), more commonly known as pillow foot.

This condition is not common and that’s likely why it’s also not well understood. It’s said to be the result of an immune response to inflammation or an infection.

Treatment may include prednisolone to help reduce inflammation and an immunosuppressant and/or antibiotic to help address an infection.

There is no cure for pillow foot so it’s important to be diligent in monitoring if your kitty has been treated in the past.

Calicivirus

There are several strains of the feline calicivirus (FCV) and some cause more severe issues than others. Mild infections typically present with upper respiratory symptoms, though severe cases can cause joint inflammation and swelling and the paw is not immune. It can also cause ulcerations on the paw.

FCV is highly contagious, but there is a vaccine. While it won’t prevent infection, it can minimize the severity of symptoms if your kitty gets infected.

Fungal and Bacterial Infections

These little invisible invaders can live peacefully on your skin but given the opportunity they can grow out of control and turn into an infection.

If your kitty is an anxious groomer or has allergies that cause them to nibble at their paws, the extra attention from that barbed tongue can lead to little cracks in the skin giving invaders an open door to thrive.

So, if you notice swelling around your cat’s nail beds and/or a foul smell it’s time for a vet visit.

Whatever caused your fur baby’s swollen paw, you may need to invest in an e-collar to prevent them from nibbling at it while it heals.

Has your fur baby ever come to you with a swollen paw before? If so, what ended up causing it, and how did you handle the situation? I'd love to hear all your stories about your furry little friends, so be sure to leave those in the comments section down below!

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But did you know that cats can have allergies, too?

It's true. Pretty much any living thing can have allergies, but what are they, and what allergies can cats have? After all, if your fur baby is having allergic reactions, you want to do what you can to minimize them so they don't suffer.

What Are Allergies?

Let’s start off with the basics, in the truest sense of the word, allergies are symptoms resulting from an immune response.

Complex, multi-cellular living things have immune systems. The immune system is a complex set of tiny processes in the body that help protect it from outside invaders. It's purpose is to help protect you against things like viruses, bacteria, and fungal infections, things that are also alive and trying to invade and use your body as a breeding ground to grow their own colonies.

When those nasties get a foothold, you get sick. Whether it's a cold, the flu, COVID-19, a rash, or any other kind of infection, it's a case where the immune system hasn't been able to fight off the invader. Usually, the immune system is hard at work fighting it off, and once it learns how, you'll recover from the illness. Sometimes, you need assistance from antibiotics or other medications.

What happens when the immune system identifies something as an invader when it's really harmless, though?

For example, dust mites, pet dander, grass pollen, and even things like bee sting venom and peanuts can all trigger an immune response.

"Allergens are foreign proteins that the body's immune system tries to remove. Examples of allergens common in humans are pollens, dust, molds, and pet hair." - VCA.

That's right; it's an allergy. An allergy is simply the body trying to use the immune system to fight off something that isn't really a danger and isn’t fightable in the traditional immune sense. So, you may get some of the symptoms of getting sick without the "getting sick" part.

The term allergy is often used interchangeably with the word sensitivity, but they aren’t actually one and the same. While they both may produce the same symptoms (we’ll get into these in a bit), a sensitivity does not involve an immune response. Sensitivities are an irritant and usually have more mild symptoms and are not life threatening.

Are Allergies Common in Cats?

Actually, yes! Allergies are one of the most common medical conditions to affect cats.

Sure, cats can get sick, get cancer, and have all sorts of terrible things happen to them, but allergies are simply so common, with so many different possible things they can be exposed to that can trigger them.

Allergies can present in a few different ways, and there are four main groups of allergies that can affect cats.

What do Allergies in Cats Look Like?

Generally, allergies will show up in one of three ways. Different kinds of allergies can express differently, so you can get some idea of what kind of allergy your cat is suffering from based on what kind of symptoms they're having.

The three kinds of allergic reactions are:

• Dermatologic. That is, skin reactions. Itchy, red patches, with swollen skin beneath, flaking skin, and occasionally something more extreme, like hives, can be a sign of an allergic reaction. This can be localized to just a small area, or it can cover large patches of the body or even be a full-body reaction for the most unfortunate feline friends of ours.
• Digestive. If your fur baby eats something that triggers a reaction in them, it can range anywhere from mild to severe. Mild reactions are mostly limited to soft stool and those nasty, room-clearing kitty farts (though those are more of a dog thing in general). Meanwhile, more severe reactions can include diarrhea and vomiting. If left untreated, it can also lead to secondary problems like dehydration and malnutrition.
• Respiratory. All of those irritating symptoms we get when we have seasonal allergies are the same sorts of things cats can get. Sniffles, sneezing, congestion, coughing, wheezing, runny nose, and itchy and watery eyes are all common symptoms of common allergies. In the case of something more severe, the windpipe can swell up and make breathing difficult or even impossible; that's when you need to bring your fur baby in for immediate medical treatment.

Usually, but not always, symptoms are going to be limited to one of these three groups. Sometimes, they can overlap a bit, though; for example, an insect bite allergy can cause skin reactions, but a bad enough reaction can also lead to respiratory distress. That's kind of how bee sting allergies work in people; the site of the sting is a reaction, but so too is respiratory distress and shock.

What Are the Four Types of Allergies in Cats?

While some vets may break the types of allergies into more refined groups, we’re going to stick with four main categories.

There can be some overlap between them in terms of symptoms, and severity varies wildly between different individual cats (and even throughout a cat's life), but they can broadly be broken down into these four groups:

• Flea allergies. Not your typical flea bite, but an overreaction to a bite.
• Food allergies. These are allergies related to something your fur baby is eating, perhaps only one ingredient in their food.
• Atopic Dermatitis. This is a skin reaction to environmental allergens, like dust mites. It's fairly common and one of the more complex kinds of allergies to deal with.
• Contact allergies. These are fairly similar to atopic dermatitis, though the symptoms are typically more mild and the treatment options are different.

Let's break them down individually!

What Do I Need to Know About Flea Allergies?

Flea bites are almost always very minor. Think of it like a mosquito for you; when one bites you, you get an annoying little welt that itches, but goes away on its own in a day or two, and that's pretty much it. Flea bites are the same way for most cats: itchy and irritating, but minor and will go away on their own even without treatment, that is, as long as the fleas themselves don't stick around.

As a side note, this is why you should always make sure your fur baby is up to date with their flea medications. Flea meds alter your kitty's body chemistry to make it inhospitable for fleas to live, so while they can still show up and bite, they won't linger. You can read a lot more about it here in my guide to cat flea medications.

Flea allergies are worse. When a flea bites, it injects a bit of saliva to feed without disturbance. This itches, but in a cat with flea allergies, one bite can cause a significant response.

“All cats can be affected to some extent by flea bites, but an allergic cat will react with disproportionate severity. Where it would take dozens of flea bites to significantly harm a normal cat’s skin, the same amount of damage to the skin of an allergic will result from just a few bites.” - William Miller Jr., Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine

Symptoms of flea allergies include:

• Skin bumps (known as miliary dermatitis)
• Itching
• Scratching
• Chewing of the skin
• Sores and scabs
• Presence of fleas, flea eggs, or flea dirt
• Secondary infections

What Do I Need to Know About Food Allergies in Cats?

Remember earlier when we talked about the difference between an allergy and a sensitivity? Food allergies are the perfect place to dig into this difference in more detail.

There are differing positions on the prevalence of food allergies in cats.

Cornell Feline Health Center, among others argue food allergies are the “thirst most common type of feline allergy.”

However, a study released in 2018, conducted by Banfield Animal Hospital looked at 2.5 million dogs and 500,000 cats and it showed food allergies in cats and dogs aren’t quite as prevalent as many people think.

“Food allergies affect just 0.2 percent of dogs and 0.1 percent of cats” – American Veterinary Medical Association

While earlier than the Banfield study, a prior study in 2006 ‘Food allergy in dogs and cats: a review’ found:

“The exact prevalence of FA [food allergies] in dogs and cats remains unknown.”

Seems like the jury is still out on this one.

The gap between these perspectives may be related to the grouping of food allergies, sensitivities, and intolerances, with the basic difference being the immune system is involved in one, but not the others.

For the sake of this post, we’re going to group all three issues together as many of the symptoms overlap, and ultimately have a similar resolution, though getting there will vary.

Food allergies are particularly tricky because it's hard to tell what your fur baby is allergic to in the first place. Tracking down what, specifically, is causing the allergic reaction is very important so you can avoid it in the future.

Some of the most common cat food allergies are related to the protein in their diet and include beef, chicken, and fish. Bear in mind any ingredient could potentially be a trigger, preservatives, gums, grains, etc.

Symptoms of Food Allergies and Intolerances

Severity of symptoms can vary, and may include some or all of the following:

• Red skin
• Fluid filled bumps on the skin (often on the head and neck)
• Itching
• Scratching
• Flakey skin
• Loss of hair
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Frequent visits to the litter box
• Gas
• Weight loss

If your vet suspects a food allergy is at play, they may recommend an "elimination diet," where you restrict what your fur baby can.

Elimination diets are tricky:

"Testing is conducted by feeding an elimination or hypoallergenic diet. This means a diet in which the ingredients have not previously been fed to the cat (e.g., duck, rabbit, venison). Because it takes at least eight weeks for all other food products to be removed from the body, the cat must eat the special diet exclusively for a minimum of eight to twelve weeks.

Unless the diet is fed exclusively, the test is meaningless. This means absolutely no treats, other foods, people foods, or even flavored medications during this trial. This cannot be overemphasized. Even accidentally providing a tiny amount of the offending protein can invalidate the test." – VCA.

If symptoms resolve on the hypoallergic diet, a food allergy is likely the case. To confirm, your vet may ask you to reintroduce their old food to see if symptoms return.

What Do I Need to Know About Atopic Dermatitis in Cats?

Atopic dermatitis is a skin irritation caused by something in the environment.

Often, these allergies are seasonal because they're related either to the life cycle of something like a dust mite or, more often, to the pollen of a plant that only flowers during specific times of the year.

Symptoms of atopic dermatitis are generally limited to the skin and can include:

• Redness of the skin
• Itching
• Scratching
• Scabs
• Excessive Licking
• Fur Loss
• Ear Infections

There are two types of allergy tests that can be done on your cat, intradermal allergy testing (IDAT) and radioallergosorbent testing (RAST).

The RAST test is pretty straight forward, a blood sample is taken by your vet and sent to a lab for review. While affordable, it’s not very reliable, though it could be a starting point for diagnosis.

A more accurate test is the IDAT, where small amounts of potential allergens are injected and then observed for a response. This test is more expensive and may require a visit to a specialist.

There is also serologic testing (RAST), which is done with your cat’s blood. This testing tends to be less reliable, but it could be a starting point for diagnosis.

A 2019 study has shown hair and saliva tests are not accurate allergen tests.

What Do I Need to Know About Contact Allergies in Cats?

Contact allergies are the least common allergy in cats and are a kind of dermatitis that isn't atopic; that is, it has a defined, specific cause. It can be a reaction to a shampoo, or to a flea collar, or to natural fibers like wool. It can also be something natural like poison ivy.

Symptoms of a contact allergy will be seen just at the location of “contact” and include:

• Redness
• Itching
• Bumps

These symptoms are generally minor, and will resolve once the source of the reaction is removed.

Cats can also be sensitive to plastic. That “dirt” on your cat’s chin is not actually dirt, but feline acne. Plastic is very porous and a great breeding ground for bacteria.

If your cat has little back specs on their chin, the first thing you should do is swap out any plastic bowls for stainless steel, glass, or ceramic.

What Do I Need to Know About Asthma in Cats?

A post about cat allergies deserves a section on feline asthma. While it’s estimated only 1% of cats living in the US suffer from asthma, it is believed to be triggered by an allergen.

Asthma is when the airways to the lungs become narrowed due to inflammation, making it harder for your cat to breathe.

Symptoms of asthma include:

• Open mouth breathing
• Wheezing or coughing
• Increased respiratory rate

Asthma attacks can range from mild to severe, and it is incurable.

Diagnosing asthma can take several tests to rule out other causes of labored breathing. Your vet will start with a physical exam, followed by bloodwork, and may order an x-ray to get a better look at your cats lungs.

What Can I Give My Cat for Allergies?

The first challenge is identifying the cause of the allergy, but some common treatment options include OTC antihistamines, an oatmeal bath, fish oil supplement, corticosteroids, and topical prescription medications.

Flea Allergies

If your cat has a flea allergy, monthly preventative treatments are a must, even if they are indoor only.

You’ll also want to ensure you’ve thoroughly cleaned your home if fleas have been present.

If your kitty is currently suffering from an acute severe reaction to flea bites, talk to your vet about medications that may be helpful.

Food Allergies

A strict diet is the only solution for a cat with food allergies. This may include feeding a prescription diet or switching to a different brand of food that doesn’t include any ingredients your cat is allergic to.

If you have multiple cats in your household and feed them different foods, it’s important to ensure your allergic kitty isn’t sampling any of the other food or symptoms are likely to return.

You’ll also need to be aware of reactions after treats or supplements. Symptoms may not appear immediately, so it can be difficult to identify the new offender, so make a note if you offer any special treats so you’ll remember down the line if symptoms show up.

If your kitty got into something they shouldn’t and has an acute bout of symptoms, talk to your vet about medications to get them over the hump, this may include something to stop vomiting or diarrhea, and/or an antihistamine for skin reactions.

Atopic Dermatitis

If your cat is allergies to environmental allergens, keeping them indoors can reduce their exposure. Doing more regular cleaning can help with indoor allergens.

You may also consider giving your kitty a fish oil supplement. The omega-3 fatty acids in the oil are anti-inflammatory and can help with skin allergies.

Because some cats with atopic dermatitis may also have a food allergen, your vet may recommend a hypoallergenic diet.

There are also a few medical options to help with atopic dermatitis and your vet will help you decide what’s best for your cat.

Your vet may start with prednisolone, which is generally well tolerated and provides quick results. Antihistamines may also be an option.

For more severe cases immunotherapy may be recommended. This treatment is regular injections or sublingual drops. Yep, just like humans with several allergies, cats can get allergy shots too! This treatment can take months to work, so supportive therapy for symptoms may also be needed.

There are also immune-modulating medications that suppress the overreaction of the immune system. These medications can make your cat more susceptible to infections and there are potential side effects, so you’ll have to weigh the benefits and risks.

Contact Allergies

Addressing contact allergies is fairly simple, remove access to the things your cat is allergic to. The challenge is first identifying the offending substance.

To help identify the allergen, look for the areas of the body that are showing an allergic reaction. Is it just around the neck? Do they wear a flea collar, easy fix. If you suspect bedding or toys might be the offender, remove to determine if the symptoms resolve.

When it comes to cleaning products, switch to pet safe brands and always remove your fur baby from the area while cleaning is taking place.

Asthma

The treatment of choice is usually an inhaled corticosteroid, just like you’ve seen used in humans, though the device doesn’t go in the mouth, but over your kitty’s face.

If your cat suffers acute bouts of asthma, try to identify the trigger. Could it be a perfume you only use occasionally? An air freshener? Perhaps a plug in or scented litter? If you’re able to identify an allergen, you can potentially reduce the frequency of attacks.

How Dangerous are Allergies in Cats?

Most of the time, allergies range from mild to moderate in severity for cats. Generalized itching is irritating and can stress your fur baby out, but it's not life-threatening unless they scratch holes in themselves and get an infection.

In rare instances, allergies can be more severe. Whenever they cause bleeding, ulcers, sores, or infections, and any time they inhibit breathing, you should bring your fur baby to the vet.

Luckily, allergies in cats are relatively well understood, and the treatments, particularly emergency treatments, are readily available. Once they pull through, you can figure out what they were allergic to and how to get rid of it from your environment for a safe, happy kitty.

Does your kitty have allergies? If so, what kind of allergy do they have, how did you identify the allergen, and what do you do to help them manage it? I'd love to hear all your stories about your fur babies, so be sure to leave those in the comments section down below!

With dogs, those rambunctious furballs full of energy and love, lameness can show up suddenly. Usually, it's due to some kind of injury, but that's not always the case.

How can you diagnose it, how can it be treated, and what do you need to know? We’ll answer those questions and more in this post.

Let’s find out more.

How Lameness is Presented in Dogs

Lameness is usually just limping. Your fur baby favors one leg, keeping the foot raised when they aren't using it to move or even hopping to avoid putting weight on it.

In some cases, they can't even control it and end up dragging the leg on the ground, which sadly can cause more injury.

Being lame or limping can come suddenly, or it can be a gradual issue. There are a lot of different causes for "doesn't want to put weight on the leg" that can range from minor or even funny all the way up to serious.

Here is a list of symptoms, most of which will be pretty obvious, but some of these are surprising:

• Refusing to walk or place weight on the affected leg.
• Limping when moving.
• Inability to run or walk normally without pain or limping.
• Difficulty jumping into the car or onto a chair or climbing up or down stairs.
• General signs of pain and discomfort.
• Knuckling (pointing the toes downward so the knuckles touch the ground instead of paw pads.)
• Swelling or other abnormalities around the joints of the leg.
• In extended cases, loss of muscle mass and tone in the area.

Often, you'll notice your fur baby seems to have less energy and is favoring a leg, though in the case of an acute injury, it's a lot more obvious that something is wrong.

Limping also isn't always constant.

"Some limps come and go.

Osteoarthritis may worsen in cold and damp weather. Injuries to muscles, tendons, and ligaments will often improve with rest but may return once a dog's activity level increases again.

Immune-mediated polyarthritis, tick-borne infections, and panosteitis (a developmental disease seen in young dogs) are sometimes associated with lameness that seems to move from leg to leg." - PetMD.

So, depending on how the limping and lameness presents itself, it may be more or less of an issue than it first seems.

How Much of an Emergency is Lameness in Dogs?

Unfortunately, the answer is, it depends.

The more common gradual lameness is not an emergency, but it is something you should get treated ASAP because leaving it untreated can further damage muscles, risk pulling other muscles, or cause other kinds of damage due to compensation for the lame limb.

This is usually the kind of situation where you can call your vet and schedule the next available appointment rather than bringing them to the emergency vet.

"Most often, limping is something that can wait until the next business day to be diagnosed by the veterinarian. If your dog's limping goes away entirely, you may not need to see the veterinarian right away, but do mention it at your next appointment and continue watching for other signs of an injury." – Emergency Vet Hospital.

Acute and severe lameness is likely the result of an injury, which needs to be seen by a vet as soon as possible.

The most common reason you'd want to bring your dog to an emergency vet is suspicion of a broken bone or a set of other symptoms that indicate a serious injury.

What Is Causing My Dog to Limp?

As we just discussed, determining the cause of the limping with help you determine how quickly a vet visit is needed.

They injured their foot.

If you get a cut on your foot, you don't want to walk on it, right? Well, neither does your fur baby. But unlike us, they aren't wearing shoes all the time, so they're susceptible to a bunch of different kinds of foot injuries.

Some foot injuries are simple and will heal on their own. Things like bug bites or stings, small cuts or scrapes, a scalded toe bean from hot pavement or a stray coal from a bonfire, skin irritation from a winter walk, or even just bruising from roughhousing can all cause your fur baby to limp.

Usually, the first thing to do if your pup is limping is inspect their foot.

Pro Tip: Don’t forget to check between their toes.

Usually, the first thing you do if your pooch is limping is inspect their foot. Something like a cut or sting can be soothed easily, burns can be addressed with soothing creams, and so on. If they have a thorn or rock stuck in their toes, it can also cause enough pain and irritation that they'll limp until it's removed.

Case in Point: Last week a neighbor was walking their dog when she suddenly started limping and wining. A quick foot inspection showed a wad of gum stuck to her paw. Prompt removal was done once they got home, and all was well again.

They've developed a joint problem.

We all have times when we stress a joint, and it aches for a while. Maybe you strain a knee, maybe you get tennis elbow; whatever the case is, it hurts to use that limb, so you start to favor it in order to let it rest. The same goes for dogs with joint problems.

Joint problems can be either chronic or acute. Acute joint problems are things like dysplasia, luxation (a dislocated knee, for example), or a pulled/strained/torn tendon or muscle in the area. These don't tend to get better without some attention, so the vet needs to see them; otherwise, it can cause other systemic issues.

Other joint issues can be chronic. Arthritis, particularly in older dogs, is common. Ligament diseases, intervertebral disk disease (IVDD), and osteochondritis dissecans (OCD) can all be long-term issues. Unfortunately, many of them don't really have cures, so you just have to manage them.

Tools like CBD may be able to help, as can pain medications, certain kinds of exercises, and occasionally other meds. Again, talk to your vet about management as their ailment progresses.

Read More Dog General Wellness Guides

• My Dog's Back Legs are Weak and Quivering: What Do I Do?
• 6 Reasons Why Your Dog's Breath Smells Like Fish
• A Pet Parent's Guide to Caring for a Dog After a Hike
• What Is Dog Recall Training and How Do You Start?

They're feeling it in their bones.

Bone problems can be similar to joint problems in presentation but tend to be different disorders. Chronic issues can include hypertrophic osteodystrophy and panosteitis. Both of these disorders primary affect young dogs that are either large or giant breeds.

“Hypertrophic osteodystrophy is an uncommon orthopaedic disease that affects young, growing dogs... Affected animals often present with varying degrees of lameness, lethargy, pyrexia and/or distal metaphyseal swelling of affected limbs.” - Selman J, Towle Millard H. Hypertrophic osteodystrophy in dogs

Dogs may also develop osteosarcoma, a kind of cancer of the bones. While more common in older dogs and large breeds, this disease can impact a pup of any age. Osteosarcoma is one of the most common canine cancers, and while treatments are available, sadly a study showed 80% will die from the cancer metastasizing in the lungs

Your fur baby was injured.

Injuries and trauma are common reasons why your fur baby will limp. These can range from a sprained muscle or ligament to a tear as less serious injuries, up to more severe problems like fractured or broken bones, dislocated joints, or even spinal cord injuries.

Most healthy dogs aren't going to just randomly develop an injury. Usually, they occur because of some kind of hazard they encountered while playing.

More serious injuries can have internal problems you can't see. Internal bleeding or bruising and other internal fractures can cause more pain and damage and need treatment to heal properly. In some cases, they can be severe enough to be life-threatening.

If your pup has sudden lameness with swelling, bruising, or bleeding, it’s time to head to the vet.

They're faking it in sympathy or for attention.

There's one cause for limping that resolves itself quickly, and that's fakery. Yes, that's right; dogs are clever creatures, and they both understand your behaviors and have empathy for you.

There have been numerous cases on the internet of instances like:

• A dog whose parent injured their leg and limps; the dog mimics the limp to show solidarity.
• A dog who was injured in the past and was pampered during the recovery. Now, in a bid for more attention and pampering, they fake the same injury.

I've linked example like this one before. It's adorable and hilarious once you know nothing is wrong, but if your fur baby has never done such a thing before, it can be stressful (and expensive!) to bring them to the vet for what turns out to be nothing.

Read More Dog General Wellness Guides

• 6 Reasons Your Dog Barks at Night (And What To Do)
• How to Keep Dog Paws from Getting Burnt on Hot Pavement
• How to Control and Calm Down a Hyperactive Dog
• FAQ: Is It Ever Too Late to Socialize an Adult Dog?

How is Lameness in Dogs Treated?

If your dog has a limp, the first thing to do is assess whether or not there are other symptoms, as mentioned above, that make it an emergency. If so, you’ll obviously need to take them to the emergency vet.

If not, you should call your normal vet and get them in for a visit as soon as you can. Even if their limp clears up, your vet can do some tests and imaging to see if there's anything wrong.

Your vet will likely ask you about the history of the limp, so be prepared to answer questions like:

• How long has your fur baby been limping?
• When did it start, and were they doing anything in particular at that time?
• Does the limp come and go, or is it static?
• Does it seem worse in the mornings?
• Are there any other changes?

Your vet will also perform an examination feeling for lumps, swelling, or signs of injury. They may do bloodwork to check for signs of an infection.

They will also likely take X-rays and possibly other kinds of imaging to see if there are bone problems or soft tissue issues. In some cases, joint fluid analysis and other more advanced tests might be called for as well.

At this point, treatment depends on the cause of the injury. It may include:

• Pain medications like carprofen, deracoxib, etodolac, or meloxicam, which are NSAID medications safe for pets (and better for them than things like aspirin or Tylenol.)
• Joint supplements like glucosamine, omega-3s, or methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) which can promote joint health.
• Behavioral recommendations, like keeping them away from heavy activity, having them wear a brace, putting on a cast in the case of broken bones, and so on.
• Life changes like weight loss; dogs that are overweight are more likely to injure a limb when they have to maneuver that bulk, especially if they're running and playing. Extra weight can also irritate arthritis, so shedding a few pounds can make a big difference in the pressure on those joints.

Similarly, if there are specific problems like osteosarcoma involved, there are entire treatment plans for just those issues. Obviously, no one wants to hear the big C word about their fur baby, but sometimes it's unavoidable, and you just have to make the best of the situation.

There are also some issues that could require surgery. Torn ligaments can sometimes require surgery to correct, for example.

And, of course, sometimes the limping seems to clear up before the vet visit, and the vet can't find anything wrong. In these cases, the only injury you need to triage is the one to your wallet, and just keep an eye on your furry friend and see if it happens again.

Fortunately, many of the most common causes of lameness in dogs are, if not easy to solve, at least solvable. It's rare that your fur baby will need serious surgery, ongoing medications, or a significant treatment plan.

Have you ever had to deal with a dog with a limp? If so, what was the issue, and how did it get handled? Tell me your story in the comments section down below! I'd love to hear it.

Both viruses and bacteria can cause cat colds, and if you have a young kitten or an older cat, it’s especially important to try to prevent these infections.

But what if your cat does get a cold? What can you do to help them? Does your fur baby need to be seen by a vet? We’ll get into that and more in today’s post.

Colds vs Respiratory Infections

The truth is, there’s no such thing as “a cold.” What we call a cold is just an upper respiratory infection (URI), usually viral rather than bacterial/fungal/etc., and it's defined more by the symptoms than the cause.

Respiratory infections in cats can be caused by a number of different viruses, but the vast majority are from two common viruses, the feline calicivirus and the feline herpes virus (FHV), also known as the feline viral rhinotracheitis (FVR).

“The chief infectious agents that cause feline upper respiratory infections are herpesvirus; and calicivirus, together accounting for about 90 percent of infections. Other agents include: Chlamydophila, Mycoplasma, Bordetella, and others.” – veterinarypartner.vin.com

Just like how the flu is actually a wide range of different mutations of the influenza virus, the cold can be any of the different kinds of rhinoviruses, adenoviruses, enteroviruses, and coronaviruses.

That's right; coronaviruses are usually responsible for a simple cold. COVID-19 is just one of many different kinds of these viruses and is only more dangerous because it's a new kind that humans don't have a reaction to and can't fight off as effectively. It's basically just a cold dialed-up to 11.

Why do I go into this digression? Well, you may have heard stories of lions, tigers, and housecats all being able to catch COVID. Our poor furry friends can get sick the same way we can, sometimes even from the same viruses.

It's very rare for the same virus to cross species lines, however, so most viruses that cause URIs in cats are not going to get you sick and vice versa. COVID-19 is a special case.

"No, cats cannot get colds from humans. The vast majority of viruses are highly species-specific and will not survive in a different host. Some bacterial infections can be transmitted to and from humans and cats, but this is rare.

Cats can get COVID-19 from humans and may show mild symptoms, but this is extremely rare." – Daily Paws.

How Do Cats Catch Colds?

When you think of colds in humans, you know it’s transmitted from someone else who is already sick. The same is true for cats. This might have you wondering, my cat is indoor only, so s/he will never get a cold, right?

Wrong. While being an indoor only cat reduces the chance of your kitty getting a cold transmitted from another cat, it doesn’t eliminate the risk.

Cats can pick up a virus that you brought home after petting another sick cat. They can also pick up a bug at the vet if they interact with another cat, or if they are boarded in a facility with relaxed cleaning protocols.

The truth is your cat is most likely already a carrier of the feline herpes virus and just isn’t showing symptoms.

“Up to 97% of cats are exposed to feline herpes virus in their lifetime, and the virus causes a lifelong infection in up to 80% of exposed cats. Of these, up to 45% will periodically shed the virus, usually when stressed.” – Cornell Feline Health Center

The crowded environment of shelters allows feline herpes to spread like wildfire, but it can also be a problem in breeding catteries.

Case in Point: As an adult, I’ve only ever had rescue kitties and they’ve all been carriers of FHV. A couple of my babies would have flares during stressful times, but most of the time showed no symptoms. My sister has purebred Maine Coons, and one has a chronic case of FHV.

What Are the Symptoms of a Cold in Cats?

Upper respiratory infections in cats are pretty similar to how they are in people. The symptoms can range from very mild to pretty severe, but they're generally not life-threatening unless your cat is otherwise susceptible to illness (very young or very old), sick in other ways, or the "cold" is actually something more dangerous.

It's worth noting that cats are notorious for hiding their illnesses. It’s a form of self-preservation, so, when your cat is obviously sick, they're likely in the worst of it.

Here are the most common symptoms of a cold in cats:

• Congestion and sniffles.
• Sneezing.
• Runny nose.
• Runny or teary eyes.
• Lethargy.
• Poor appetite.
• Coughing.
• Dehydration.
• Fever.
• Enlarged lymph nodes.
• Ulcers in the eye and/or sores in the mouth.

Should You Bring Your Sick Cat to the Vet?

Now that we know what symptoms to look for, your next question is likely should I take my poor sick fur baby to the vet, and if so, should it be an emergency vet trip or just an appointment scheduled ASAP?

Luckily, colds are almost always minor in cats, just like they are in humans. We think of colds as an annoyance and a source of stress, not as a life-threatening ailment, because they very rarely end up serious or fatal.

99% of the time, you don't need to bring your cat to the vet at all for a simple cold. They'll probably get over the worst of it and bounce back to their happy, purring selves in just a few days. The key in making the determination of whether or not a vet visit is needed is documenting the symptoms and whether they are improving or getting worse.

While most cat colds are caused by viruses and resolve on their own, some are caused by bacteria or fungi. Even a viral cold can become more severe by developing a secondary bacterial infection.

The following examples are cases where your cat needs to be seen by a vet.

• If they remain sick for more than 4-5 days, they may have something worse than a cold, or they may have an underlying issue that makes the cold worse, and vet treatment may be necessary.
• If their symptoms are very severe, such as having a lot of trouble breathing, wheezing, and other signs of pneumonia.
• If they refuse to eat or drink for more than 24 hours, they may need a vet to give them nutrients and fluids to get over the worst of the disease. Not eating or significantly reduced eating over an extended period of time, can cause death in cats.
• If they're already old, infirm, sick for other reasons, or very young. Colds can be more dangerous if your fur baby has a poor or compromised immune system for other reasons, so they are at higher risk of more serious illness.

As with any ailment, keep an eye on your cat, and consider any underlying health issues. A cat with asthma may need to be seen by a very for mild symptoms, whereas an otherwise healthy cat would not. Watch your cat’s behaviors and determine whether or not you feel like you need faster treatment. An unnecessary vet trip you take when you don't need it may be expensive, but it's better than your cat needing a trip to the vet and not getting it.

Can You Prevent Your Cats from Getting Sick?

Well, yes and no. There are a lot of things you can do to help minimize the chances of your fur baby catching a cold, but there's no way to truly 100% prevent them from getting sick.

First and foremost, get your kitty vaccinated.

Those two viruses I mentioned earlier that cause 90% of URIs in cats, have a vaccine. While it won’t prevent infection, it will help minimize the severity of symptoms if you cat contracts the virus or is already a carrier. Without the vaccine these viruses can lead to death.

You might already be familiar with the vaccine, it’s a combo vaccine called FVRCP. Kittens will need this vaccine several every 3 to 4 weeks for several months, as well as a shot at one year.

Recommendations will vary by vet, but once the initial series is complete, your cat will typically only need to be revaccinated every 3 years.

Keep your cat indoors.

The main culprits of cat colds are the FVR and FHV and since they are highly transmissible, it’s best to keep your kitty away from non-vaccinated cats.

Wash your hands after petting any cats other than your own.

Colds can travel through the air and on surfaces, and even if your cats don't associate with other cats, you can transfer the germs by bringing them into your home on your hands or even your clothes.

Make sure your fur baby has food, shelter, and warmth.

This isn't usually a problem for indoor cats, but if you keep barn cats, mousers, or other "working" cats, the winter months can be harder on them, and they can end up sick because of the stress.

Try to minimize stress.

A stressed animal is more prone to getting sick because their immune system is suppressed by the stress hormone cortisol. This goes for people, too, by the way; if you're worried about getting sick, do what you can to minimize stress to alleviate the worst of it.

Make sure you have adequate ventilation and air quality in your home.

Stagnant air, dirty air, and trapped air all make it harder to breathe appropriately and stay free from illnesses, and if a cold does get into your home, it will end up trapped rather than circulated away.

Isolate a Sick Cat from Other Cats

Cats spread illness quite quickly amongst themselves, and that makes a sick cat a danger to other cats around them.

If your cat lives with you all alone, you don't need to worry. You won't catch the cold from them, and any dogs or other animals you have won't either. However, if you have other cats, you should establish a "sick room" for your fur baby – usually a bathroom, spare bedroom, or other isolated space – and keep the sick fur baby away from the others for 3-5 days.

It's going to be tough. Hearing your sick fur baby cry from their sick room will break your heart, even if you go and spend time with them. For cats that love spending time cuddling with one another, they may even take up the heartbreaking position of trying to cuddle through a door. Even this can be dangerous exposure if there's too much space under the door, though. You should try what you can to keep the illness from spreading between cats.

You’ll also want to practice good hygiene when going between visiting your sick kitty and the healthy ones.

Similarly, if your cat is used to being able to go outdoors and wander, socialize with other cats, keeping them inside for several days is important. Any other cat they spend time socializing with outdoors is also at risk of catching the same cold, and these illnesses can spread quickly in packs of strays and feral felines.

Should You Give Your Cat Cold Medicines?

The short answer, no. You should not give your cat human cold medicines. That goes for topical medications too. While you might find those chest rub creams help open up your stuffy sinuses, they are not safe for cats. Remember anything that’s applied to your cat’s coat is likely going to ingested as they work to remove it.

Most of the time, human cold medicines aren't just ineffective; they can actually be toxic to your fur baby. The last thing you want to do is make the situation worse.

How Can You Make Your Cat Feel Better?

If your cat ends up with an upper respiratory infection, the good news is there are things you can do to help.

Before embarking on a home treatment plan, keep in mind that stress can exacerbate symptoms. You know your cat best, so balance your urge to help with how they are responding to said help.

Here are some at home remedies you can try.

• Use steam and humidity. A humidifier can help in pretty much any room they're in, preferably one that warms the steam rather than a cold vaporizer. Alternatively, bring them to the bathroom and run a hot shower to steam up the room. This can help fight dehydration, help their mucus membranes stay moist, and loosen up the gunk in their sinuses and lungs to help get it out.
• Clean their nose and eyes with a warm, damp cloth. If they'll let you, of course. Wiping and dabbing at their crusty eyes and stuffy or runny nose will help keep them a little bit more comfortable. You can't exactly get them to cough up the gunk, but when it comes out on its own, you can clean it up.
• When feeding them, use soft food. This can be wet food, or you can moisten dry food with a bit of broth or tuna juice to make it softer and easier to eat. If you’re rehydrating wet food, do it in small amounts and throw away anything that hasn’t been eaten. Leaving it out for several hours will allow bacteria to grow.
• Warm up the food a bit. Congestion makes it hard to smell anything, and if your fur baby can't smell their food, they won't be as interested in it. Heating it up a bit – ensuring it’s not hot enough to burn them – will increase the odors and make it easier for them to smell.
• Provide warmth for them to stay comfortable. Using a cat safe heating pad under their bed or a warm blanket can help keep them warm and cozy while they fight off the illness.
• Clean and replace blankets, bedding, food, and water bowls, and other items they contact every day. Because many viruses and bacteria live on surfaces, constant exposure to the same materials can lead to reinfection or prolonged infection and can be a danger to other cats.
• Do what you can to reduce their stress. There are all kinds of sources of stress in life, and minimizing them can help a lot. This could mean keeping the kids or dog away from your ill kitty, or using a pheromone plug in to reduce stress.

As we discussed earlier, if your kitty is in an at-risk group, especially young, old, or has underlying health conditions a vet visit is likely in order. Symptoms that are not improving also need a vet visit. The good news is your vet has additional tools that can be helpful for your kitty.

• Antibiotics. If your vet determines your kitty’s cold is the result of bacteria, or that they’ve developed a secondary bacterial infection, an antibiotic might be prescribed to treat the infection. This could be injected, oral, or topical in the case of bacterial conjunctivitis.
• Antivirals. In severe cases your vet may prescribe an antiviral medication to help speed up the recovery process.
• Antifungals. If your vet determines your kitty’s URI is the result of a fungal infection, an anti-fungal drug might be prescribed.
• Fluids. A sick kitty will tend to sleep more and eat/drink less, which can lead to dehydration. Subcutaneous fluids will counteract dehydration. This may be something your vet does as a one-time treatment in the office, or you may be given fluids to administer at home.
• Appetite Stimulate. If your kitty has stopped eating because of a stuffy nose, and the tricks of warming their food, and using stinky options like tuna haven’t worked, your vet may prescribe an appetite stimulant to help encourage your kitty to eat.

Has your fur baby ever had to deal with a cold before? If so, how did you help them get through it? Be sure to leave all your stories in the comments section, down below! I'd love to hear them!

So, when your fur baby is feeling a little under the weather, you're naturally going to be concerned. Is it minor, or is it serious? It can be hard to tell sometimes, but taking action quickly can be very important in some situations (or an overreaction in others.) So, how do you know when you should take your dog to the vet, and when they just need rest, water, and love?

Here are 12 signs you should bring your fur baby to the vet ASAP.

1: Your Fur Baby Isn't Interested in Food

Dogs love food, so when your fur baby turns their nose up at it, halfheartedly licks it, or takes a few bites and can't handle more, it's probably cause for concern.

Loss of appetite can be caused by a wide range of problems, some of them much more serious than others.

• General infections and illness. Just like we feel under the weather and can't eat much more than soup, our fur babies are the same way and won't have the energy to eat when they're not feeling well.
• Stomach issues. Ulcers, bowel obstructions, and other issues can make it painful to eat or make them feel full, so they don't want food.
• Dental problems. When your fur baby has a toothache, abscess, or other dental issue, the prospect of eating can be too painful.
• Stress. Changes in environment, emotional stress, changes in routine, and other problems can make your pup less interested in food, but this will usually clear up in short order.

Generally, if your fur baby refuses to eat for more than a day or two or if loss of appetite is coupled with other signs on this list, you should take them to the vet.

If your pup has a subtle decrease in appetite over time, chat with your vet at their next appointment.

2: Your Fur Baby is Throwing Up

Vomiting and diarrhea are both symptoms of gastrointestinal distress. Sometimes, it's as simple as eating something that doesn't agree with them, usually when you're out on a walk, and they get into something they shouldn't, or when they get into the pantry unsupervised. Other times, it can be something like a stomach bug, a parasite, a cleaning product, or a disease.

Vomiting is usually not a cause for concern if it’s only happening when you get in the car. Younger pups and those that are more on the anxious side may feel nauseous during a car ride leading to vomiting and/or diarrhea.

Taking regular short trips can help an anxious dog get used to the car and there are some changes you can make (such as withholding food beforehand) to reduce your pup’s motion sickness. If all else fails talk to your vet about medications that can soothe a car sick tummy.

Check out this 2 min video for tips to help your car sick pup:

Vomiting is also pretty common as a one-time reaction to eating something bad. Your fur baby might love the idea of taking a bite of that roadkill, but their stomach won't like it and will send it right back up. One-off instances of loose stool or vomiting aren't usually a cause for concern, but if you notice blood, if your pupper is lethargic, or if they have other symptoms on this list, consult your vet and see if you need to bring them in.

3: Your Fur Baby Doesn't Have Much Energy

Lethargy is the scientific name for having a lack of energy or being disinterested in their normal day-to-day routine. You might find that your pup is weak, sleeping more, and not interested in their favorite stuffy.

Lethargy is not when your pup collapses on their bed after a long day at the beach or an extended session of fetch.

Unfortunately, lethargy is a frustratingly non-specific kind of symptom. On the one hand, it can be as simple as a bit of a puppy cold or a side effect of a medication. It can be a symptom of pain or as a result of a fever or infection.

On the other hand, lethargy can be a symptom of something more serious, like diabetes, hypothyroidism, hypoglycemia, anemia, organ dysfunction, or a serious injury. Please bear in mind that these health conditions have other symptoms that may also be present.

Lethargy can also be a symptom of acute poisoning or a severe allergic reaction. If your pup hasn’t gotten into anything unusual, you can likely rule this cause out. If you suspect your pup has consumed something unusual, reach out to pet poison control for guidance.

4: Your Fur Baby is Having Trouble Breathing

Trouble breathing is one of the scariest symptoms you or your pup can experience. The air is right there, but somehow it isn't enough. What's going on? Not getting enough oxygen can also lead to other problems, including collapsing.

Look out for different types of difficulty breathing. Rapid breathing is normal for a dog on the run, but once they catch their breath, it should slow down. If it doesn't, that's a cause for concern. Shallow breathing can be a sign of something going wrong with the lungs or with general pain in the abdomen. Nostrils flaring and your fur baby extending their neck out to try to open their airways can be a sign of an obstruction.

Sometimes, your fur baby is just having an allergy attack and can get over it quickly. Other times, it could be something serious like heart conditions, heatstroke, injury, or a growing tumor in the chest putting pressure on the lungs. Any severe, sudden, worsening, or dramatic trouble breathing is cause for a vet trip.

5: Your Fur Baby Can't Stop Coughing

Coughing can be related to trouble breathing and can cause trouble breathing, but it's usually its own thing.

Dogs with a cough can have different kinds of coughs, too.

• Dry coughs are harsh and hacking, but nothing comes out. Kennel Cough is a kind of dry cough and is the most common cause of coughing in dogs.
• Productive coughs are coughs that "produce" mucus or phlegm. They're gross, wet, and usually indicate some kind of infection such as canine influenza or a lung problem.
• Honking coughs are loud and almost comedic since they sound like a goose honk each time they happen. Unfortunately, they aren't funny at all and can indicate a tracheal collapse, which needs immediate attention.

Sometimes, all you need is to call your vet for a prescription and give your fur baby some medicine, but other times, you'll need more detailed intervention, so consider that vet trip when you hear coughing.

6: Your Fur Baby is Limping or Favoring a Leg

Limping, lameness, and mobility issues can come from a lot of different sources. Most of the time, if your fur baby is limping, they've probably injured themselves.

Maybe they strained or sprained a muscle when they were running around and playing. Maybe they stepped on something sharp and cut a paw or pulled out a claw. Maybe they fractured or broke a bone. All of these are acute issues that need attention but can be solved with care and time.

On the other hand, there are some more serious, slower, and more insidious causes. Some infections can attack the joint and cause arthritis-like symptoms. Arthritis itself, of course, can affect older dogs and lead to limping and mobility problems.

There are also a few common types of canine cancers that cause tumors in and around the joints, which can also lead to mobility problems.

If you're lucky, your fur baby is just faking an injury to get some attention or to sympathize with your own injuries.

7: Your Fur Baby Isn't Acting Like Themselves

It can be very scary when your dog isn't acting the way they usually do. A chipper, happy dog suddenly acting aggressive, a friendly and outgoing pup suddenly hiding from strangers, a calm dog being restless; any dramatic, sudden shift in behavior can be a sign that something is wrong.

Watch out for signs of sudden aggression, fear, withdrawal from normal behaviors, restlessness, anxiety, destructive behavior, irritability, or aversion to touch. These can all be caused by things like pain, injury, stress, fear, or neurological problems. Your vet will need to perform an exam to figure out what's wrong.

8: Your Fur Baby is Drinking a Ton or Needs to Pee Constantly

Two related issues here are called polydipsia and polyuria (PD and PU). They're just the fancy medical names for excessive thirst and excessive urination.

Drinking a lot can be fine, like when your fur baby is playing a lot or spending a lot of time out in the heat. And, of course, peeing a lot comes with drinking a lot. All that liquid has to go somewhere!

On the other hand, there are a bunch of different issues that mess with the body's equilibrium and can cause it to desire or expel excessive amounts of liquid. Kidney disease, unchecked diabetes, urinary tract infections, some medications, and stress can all cause both PD and PU.

Often, this isn't cause for concern on its own. But, if it's sustained over multiple days, or if it's accompanied by any of the other issues on this list, call your vet. You probably don't need to rush them in for an emergency visit, but a close appointment is a good idea.

9: Your Fur Baby is Bloated

In us people, bloating usually just means we ate a lot of beans or something we have a sensitivity, and the result is the excess production of gas in our bellies. In dogs, that's not really how it works. Swelling and bloating of the abdomen can be a lot more dangerous in dogs than it is in people.

Bloat in dogs is formally called gastric dilation-volvulus (GDV). The exact cause of this condition is unknown, but it can be life-threatening.

A distended or swollen abdomen is the more common and concerning sign. They may also be restless, drooling, and have difficulty breathing. Additionally, they could be trying to cough or vomit without success.

This issue is most common in large dogs with deep chests, like Boxers, German Shepherds, and Great Danes. It's also usually caused by a "twisted stomach," a problem where a gassy stomach twists in the abdomen and cuts off the tubes leading to and from it, which is an emergency and may need immediate surgery to correct.

"It is estimated that 40% of Great Danes will develop GDV at some point during their lifespan; prophylactic gastropexy significantly reduces this likelihood." – VCA Animal Hospitals

If you have a breed that is at higher risk of developing GDV, your vet may recommend a preventative gastropexy surgery often called “stomach tacking” where the stomach is sutured to the abdominal wall to prevent it from twisting. My sister has had Great Danes for many years, and this is a surgery she always has done to help reduce the risk of GDV.

10: Your Fur Baby Can't Stop Scratching

Scratching excessively can be caused by anything from a mild allergic reaction or contact with something like poison ivy to parasites like fleas or mites to hot spots and other skin issues. Also, sometimes hormonal issues and even some rare cancers can cause excessive itching and scratching.

Usually, this isn’t something you would need to take your fur baby in for an emergency visit, however you'll want to call your vet, describe the problem, and ask what they think. Check out another post I wrote if you want to learn some of the most common reasons why your pup is scratching.

11: Your Fur Baby's Face is All Gross

By gross here, I mean they've got runny or sticky discharge coming out of their eyes, nose, and/or mouth.

Eye discharge can be allergies, infections like pink eye, more severe infections, or tear duct issues. Nose discharge can be infections, allergies, sudden changes in humidity and temperature, excitement, infections, or even trauma if they got their nose injured by sticking it somewhere they shouldn't have. Mouth discharge could be anything from excessive drooling to foaming.

If the color is something other than clear, and especially if there's blood in the discharge, a vet visit is needed. If it gets worse over time, or if it's accompanied by other items on this list, speed up that visit.

12: Your Fur Baby is Losing Weight Fast

When weight loss is not planned as a part of a monitored diet, it is a cause for concern.

Sudden weight loss can be a sign of disease or parasites that interfere with absorbing the nutrients in food. It can also be a sign of infections, digestive issues, or injuries. In extreme cases, it can also be a sign of a severe metabolic disorder or cancer.

Rapid weight loss deserves a rapid trip to the vet, though again, it's probably not emergency vet material. Save that for acute injuries and life-threatening problems, and just schedule an appointment as soon as you can.

Keeping Your Fur Baby Healthy

One of the many great things about dogs is that when they aren’t feeling well, they'll show it. They aren't like cats, who hide their symptoms until they're so bad they can’t hide it anymore. Dogs with sudden issues may need a trip to the emergency vet or just a call and an appointment sometime in the next week or so.

Ensuring your pup has a full annual exam is the best way to stay on top of any lurking health issues. Periodic bloodwork can tell you a lot of information before symptoms develop, so follow your vet’s recommendation when it comes to testing.

Have any questions? If so, I'm always more than happy to help you out however I can. Just leave me a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

If you have a young kitty at home this post can still give you good information to know signs of illness to look for to know when an unplanned vet appointment might be warranted.

Pet parents with senior and geriatric kitties, this is a must read. There are many common ailments that impact older cats and adjustments to their diet or medication may be needed to address the issue.

One of the more common symptoms your feline companion may display when a health issue arises is increased urination and thirst.

While not in all cases, drinking more – and thus, peeing more – may be a side effect of illness, it's one that is often more obvious when it advances because it may lead to accidents.

In this post we’re going talk about the most common causes of increased thirst and urination, how they are treated, and we’ll also provide pointers for how to identify these changes.

As usual, don’t miss the educational videos, this post has 3!

Let’s get started.

Identifying Increased Thirst & Urination?

As our lives get busier, naturally we look for ways to automate everyday tasks. One tempting item, if you have the funds to afford one, is an automated litter box.

This might be an unpopular opinion, but I don’t recommend a self-cleaning litter box.

By a show of hands, who enjoys cleaning the litter box? I get it, they save time and sweep away the stinkies before they get time to stink up your home. That’s certainly a benefit I won’t argue. Where they fall short is their ability to tell you what’s being deposited into their waste bin.

As you may know, your cat’s litter box usage or lack thereof can tell you a lot about their health. Increased thirst and urination go hand in hand.

That is, if your cat is drinking more water than usual, they will also be peeing more than usual.

How Much Water Should My Cat Drink Daily?

Questions you may have at this point are how much is too much water or how much water should my cat drink daily? Well, this will depend on your cat’s weight as well as their diet.

“Cats need to consume about 4 ounces of water per five pounds of lean body weight per day, so the average 10-pound cat should drink about one cup of water per day. It’s important to realize that cats that eat wet food, which can contain up to 80% water, may drink less, and cats that eat dry food usually take more of their daily water requirement in by drinking.” - Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine

Now, unless you can monitor your cat’s water fountain 24/7, odds are you won’t be able to tell if your cat’s drinking habits have changed. Your best friend here is the litter box. Who would have thought anybody would consider a litter box as a good friend hmm?

As it turns out, any changes in water consumption will be date stamped in the litter box. Of course, so long as you follow a daily litter box cleaning routine. That’s the key.

Scooping the litterbox daily is the best way to identify changes in urine output. You can also keep an eye on the size of the clumps to see if there is a change in frequency, output, or both.

Case in Point: If you’re one of the many multi-cat households, you may notice the change while you’re scooping, but not know who’s responsible for the change. In this case I recommend, and have personally used, an inexpensive wireless camera. Set it up to view just the litter box and configure the settings to alert you when there is motion. If you’re home, you can immediately check the deposit and confirm the source.

A change in water intake may be difficult to identify if you use a bowl and freshen it daily, so keeping an eye on litter box output is going to be your best bet.

If you use a water fountain (and I highly recommend them), take note of how often you’re refilling the reservoir.

Did the refill rate change from once a week to not making it a full week? The change might be subtle at first, but the earlier you can recognize a change the better.

What Problems Can Cause Increased Thirst and Urination in Cats?

There is a whole variety of reasons that can lead to increased thirst and urination in cats. From a cat’s level of activity to behavioral issues such anxiety and stress, to the amount of time a cat spends indoors vs outdoors, to environmental/seasonal changes that could include excess heat to underlying health conditions.

The gamut of possible reasons can be very wide.

“…a female pet with a history of being in heat six months ago may have increased thirst and urination because of an infected uterus…Some drugs can (also)cause increased thirst and urination in cats)” - VCA Animal Hospitals

Excessive water consumption could be seasonal

If you believe environmental issues (such as excess heat) may be causing your cat to drink more than usual, you can make changes while continuing to observe your cat’s behavior.

If after addressing any issues in the environment you still notice that your cat is still drinking more water than usual, this could potentially be a sign that your cat has some underlying health issue, and a vet visit may be warranted.

Other than benign causes, the three most common health conditions that cause increased thirst and urination are: Diabetes, Hyperthyroidism, and Chronic Kidney Disease.

Diabetes

Diabetes is a problem with the pancreas and the body's ability to produce insulin in balance with diet and bodily health. Insulin is like a tiny chemical key that opens up individual cells and allows sugar into them, where the sugar is used as energy and food to keep the cell going.

There are two kinds of diabetes.

Type 1 diabetes is typically seen in younger cats and is due to damaged cells in their pancreas.

Type 2 diabetes is generally seen in adult cats and can be caused by a number of factors, but ultimately shows as increased sugar in the blood because the body has developed a resistance to insulin.

Regardless of the kind of diabetes, they both end up resulting in increased thirst and increased urination as their little bodies have to get rid of excess sugar and other byproducts.

Diabetes is common in cats, especially overweight cats, male cats, and older cats. Other symptoms of diabetes include leg weakness, weight loss, increased appetite, and even loss of fur.

“Though there is no cure for feline diabetes, the prognosis for a good quality of life is good with adequate management at home. With early, aggressive treatment of diabetes, many cats will enter a state of diabetic remission, meaning they are able to maintain normal blood sugar levels without insulin injections.” - Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine

Cat Diabetes | Dr. Todd Green, Board-Certified Internal Medicine Specialist | VCA Animal Hospitals - 2:09 Mins

Hyperthyroidism

The thyroid produces hormones that affect nearly every organ in the body, so when it’s not functioning properly, you can expect to see changes throughout the body.

Problems with the thyroid can crop up as both hypo- and hyperthyroidism, cases where the thyroid is producing too little or too much of the hormones it controls.

Hypothyroidism is very uncommon in cats and won’t cause the symptoms we’re discussing today.

Hyperthyroidism on the other hand is not uncommon. In fact, my angel Moosie cat was diagnosed with hyperthyroidism when he was a teenager. If you want to learn more about this disease check out my in-depth discussion on hyperthyroidism.

Other symptoms besides increased urination are vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss, increased appetite, increased excitability, poor body condition, and an abnormal heart rate.

The problem with cat hyperthyroidism is that it usually comes along with several other serious health conditions including heart disease and high blood pressure.

“Hypertension, or high blood pressure, is another potential complication of hyperthyroidism, and can cause additional damage to several organs, including the eyes, kidneys, heart, and brain. If hypertension is diagnosed along with hyperthyroidism, drugs may be needed to control the blood pressure and reduce the risk of damaging other organs.” - Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine

Cat Hyperthyroidism | Vets Clinic | 2:44 Mins



Chronic Kidney Disease

I like to think of the kidneys as filters for the body. They are responsible for many functions including water conservation and the removal of waste from the blood stream.

“Your cat’s kidney disease may lead to an increase in their thirst and urination. You may notice them drinking a lot more and rushing to the litter box many frequently than they used to...Your vet will want to run tests to determine the cause of your cat’s increased thirst and urination.” - Atlantic Veterinary Internal Medicine & Oncology

When the kidneys begin to lose function over time, it’s called chronic kidney disease or CKD.

This reduced function means the amount of waste they would typically remove from the blood is lessened and more urine is output. Cats will then compensate for the increased output by drinking more water.

While it can show up in cats of any age, CKD is more commonly seen in older cats.

“Chronic kidney disease (CKD) is the most common metabolic disease of domesticated cats, with most affected cats being geriatric (>12 years of age).” - Brown CA, Elliott J, Schmiedt CW, Brown SA.

CKD is ranked in stages as the disease progresses and the level of kidney function diminishes.

Three out of my four now angel kitties all had CKD with the hallmark indicator of increased urination as the disease progressed. You may also notice that your cat has a reduced appetite and is losing weight.

Everything You Need to Know About Chronic Kidney Disease in Cats | Dr. Sarah Wooten, DVM, CVJ | 17:04 min Video

Other Issues

While the above issues are the most common, there are a variety of other causes of increased thirst and urination.

Other potential causes include:

• Other kidney issues. Chronic kidney disease isn't the only kidney issue that can cause thirst and urination. Acute kidney issues and kidney infections can also be responsible.
• Various hormone disorders. While the thyroid is the usual culprit, there are a ton of other glands and processes that create hormones that, when out of balance, can cause the same symptoms. While uncommon in cats these include diseases such as Cushing's Disease and Addison's Disease.
• Excessive calcium in the blood. Known as as hypercalcemia, when the body doesn't process calcium or when there's too much calcium in their diet.
• Liver disease. Much like the kidneys, the liver is responsible for handling bodily fluids, specifically filtering and processing blood. When it's damaged or needs to work overtime, it can cause increased thirst and urination, though you’ll often see other symptoms such as jaundice (yellowing of the skin or white part of the eyes), weakness, and disorientation.
• Certain kinds of cancer. These can be cancers of the kidneys, liver, thyroid, or other parts of the body related to the urinary tract.
• Drug side effects. As noted above, if your fur baby is on a medication, particularly for an infection, excess thirst and urination could simply be a side effect.

In some cases, an electrolyte imbalance can also cause the issue. There's also a rare behavioral issue called "primary polydipsia" that involves excess thirst and urination for no reason other than a trained or learned behavior, with no underlying health conditions.

How to Determine What's Wrong

Because increased thirst and urination are oftentimes caused by medical issues, you’ll need to take your fur baby to the vet to get a diagnosis.

"The search for answers begins with a complete history and physical examination. A pet's history is the information you give the veterinarian about your pet's illness. History is very important and can provide clues about the cause of increased thirst and urination." – VCA Animal Hospitals.

Your vet will likely ask you questions about your cat’s behavior, what they've been eating, medications they're taking, when you noticed the changes, and if you’ve seen any other unusual behavior. This will help them determine what course of tests they might want to order.

Increased thirst and urination that came on acutely after eating something that isn’t cat friendly may need different tests as compared to a cat that has had the symptoms worsen over time.

Your vet will likely perform a few kinds of tests, beginning with simple physical examination, involving careful prodding and palpating of the abdomen, lymph nodes, and other potentially suspect areas.

One of the best diagnostic tools a vet has is a blood test. Blood can tell you a lot about the health of your cat. A test called a CBC, or Complete Blood Count, will check things like white blood cell and red blood cell counts to look for possible infection.

Your vet may also do a comprehensive metabolic panel, which is another kind of blood test that will analyze things like lipids, proteins, enzymes, sugar, hormones, and electrolytes. All of these need to be within normal ranges, and if they aren't, the specific imbalance can point to a specific disease.

Read More Cat Health Care Guides

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Finally, a urinalysis will check for kidney function and look for infections of the urinary tract, which will help add more details to the overall picture.

If hyperthyroidism is suspected, your vet may also want to run a specific blood test to check your cat’s thyroid function to confirm the diagnosis.

How to Treat a Cat with Increased Thirst and Urination

The treatment plan will obviously depend on the cause of the increased thirst and urination. The good news is the common causes we noted above are easy to diagnose with simple blood tests and there are treatment options.

Diabetes

If your cat’s glucose comes back high, your vet will likely prescribe insulin for you to inject at home. This might come as a scary diagnosis, but I can tell you from personal experience, with a little training and practice, you’ll be a pro in no time.

My angel Moosie was initially diagnosed with diabetes due to his obesity. If your kitty is in a similar situation, a change in diet, exercise, and weight loss can put your kitty into remission.

He was diagnosed with diabetes again several years later, this time unrelated to his weight. When you have a diabetic cat, it’s going to be important to test their glucose level and ensure they are receiving the correct dose of insulin.

You’ll likely have frequent discussions with your vet at the beginning of treatment until you reach the correct dosage to keep your fur baby in a healthy range.

Hyperthyroidism

An overactive thyroid will clearly show up on a blood test and the good news is it’s almost always caused by a benign tumor. A daily medication to help regulate hormone production is the most common treatment option, though it treats a symptom and not the root cause, the tumor.

Other treatment options are available, so talk with your vet to see if an alternative option is best for you and your kitty.

Chronic Kidney Disease

If you take your kitty to the vet annually for check-ups and do periodic bloodwork, you’re likely to receive a CKD diagnosis before you ever notice any symptoms.

The good news is early diagnosis means you can make changes to slow the progression of the disease. Your vet may recommend diet changes such as prescription wet food that is easier on the kidneys. They may also recommend you begin a potassium supplement, which can be sprinkled on your kitty’s food.

In more progressed cases of CKD, your kitty may need to be treated with subcutaneous fluids to address dehydration. CKD can also cause increased blood pressure so you may end up with a daily prescription that will need to be given.

Kidney disease will progress at a different rate depending on the cat, but I can tell you from experience small changes early, regular monitoring, and tweaks along the way, will allow your kitty to live for many years with the diagnosis.

Have you noticed increased thirst or urination in your kitty? What was the diagnosis? How have you dealt with treatment? Share your story below so other pet parents can learn from your experience.

Of course, it makes sense. Dogs don't have hands, and their primary senses for interacting with the world involve smell and taste as much as eyesight and hearing. Getting a mouthful of anything is how they interact with the world around them.

The trouble is what ends up in their mouth isn’t always doggy safe. Dogs can end up with something lodged in their throat or the back of their mouth, and it can go from playful fetch to an emergency situation in an instant. Every single dog parent out there should know how to deal with a choking dog ASAP, as well as any related first aid. By the time you pack your pup up and take them to an emergency vet, it may be too late.

Today we’re going to help prepare you on how to respond in the event your pup begins choking. We’ve included two great videos that demonstrate the techniques needed to help save your pup’s life.

Okay, let’s get started.

How to Prevent Your Dog from Choking

Let’s start by talking a bit about prevention. There are some basic rules that you can follow to reduce your pup’s risk of choking. These include:

• Don’t leave small objects around your house that your pup can access and potentially try to eat.
• Choose hollow ball toys instead of solid ones like tennis balls.
• Choose ball toys that are too big for your dog to fully put in their mouth.
• Inspect your dogs’ toys regularly and toss out any that are in poor condition to avoid having a chunk break free.
• Avoid giving chew toys that can splinter.
• Choose size appropriate toys, in other words don’t give a Great Dane a chew toy meant for a Yorkie.
• Feed dry food that is the appropriate size for your pup. Large round kibbles should not be fed or accessible to a small dog.
• If your pup likes to woof down their food, buy a slow feeder dish to reduce their pace.
• With small dogs, be mindful of anything you drop, things like a rouge nut or hard candy can be choking hazards.

While choking can’t be fully prevented, following the above recommendations will remove the risk associated with some of the common items that cause pups to choke.

What Are the Signs of a Choking Dog?

In order to act quickly in an emergency situation, it’s important to first familiarize yourself with the signs of choking.

If your pup has gotten something lodged in their mouth or throat they're likely going to panic about it. They'll retch and try to get it out of their throat. They'll pace or run back and forth in obvious distress. They may paw at their head, mouth, or neck in an attempt to get at what's causing the problem. They may also whine or try to in an attempt to get your attention.

The worst case is when they aren't making any noise at all. That means a complete airway obstruction, and that's when you have only moments between life and death. You have to think quickly, spring into action, and be decisive to have the best chance of saving your furry friend's life.

Outlining the Process

We’ll get started with an overview of what you should be thinking and doing the moment you identify your pup is choking. Ideally, you'll have a bit of first aid knowledge (or even have taken a canine first aid class offered by a local vet or pet rescue), and you can rely on that knowledge. You can also visit sites like First Aid For Pets for a free dog choking course.

Step 1: Stay Calm

Sometimes it’s easier said than done, but in an emergency, a clear mind and calm demeanor will help you act safely and deliberately.

Dogs are pros at reading body language and if you’re freaking out because they’re freaking out, it’s only going to increase their frantic behavior and make it harder for you to help.

So, if you see your dog is choking, act fast, and take deep breaths to help yourself remain calm.

Step 2: Identify and Attempt to Remove Obstruction

If you feel confident you can safely use your hands to inspect your pup’s mouth, the next thing to do is see if you can dislodge whatever is stuck. We’ll dive deeper into the exact process to use in the next section.

If you can see your pup is still able to breathe, spend no more than 1-2 minutes trying to dislodge whatever is causing the blockage.

Step 3: Head to the Vet

Whether you’re able to remove the obstruction or not, the next step is to head to your closest vet.

The further away you are from an emergency vet, the less time you have at home to remove the blockage. If you live further away, you might need to immediately head to your car while a friend or family member helps try to dislodge the hazard.

Pro Tip: Always know your closest vet who can help in an emergency and have a backup in mind if the primary option is closed for the day.

If you’re able to get the object out, your dog may still be in panic mode. They may try to snap or bite just out of sheer distress, so be careful not to get yourself injured in the process.

Handle Your Dog Safely

As pet parents, no matter how much we love and are loved by our canine friends, there is always a risk of being bitten or injured by a panicking dog. Remember, while choking, your fur baby isn't rational. They're struggling, and if you try to reach into their mouth, they may bite or shy away. You're trying to help, but they don't know that.

You'll want to restrain your fur baby gently to prevent them from running away, struggling, or making things worse. A second set of hands is always helpful, so one person can restrain while the other attempts to remove the object.

Removing the Object

For partial obstructions, larger obstructions, and cases where you can safely open your dog's mouth and see the object stuck in their throat, you may be able to reach in and grab it. If you have a set of tongs, long tweezers, or another gripping tool, this can make it easier to reach into your fur baby's throat and remove whatever object is caught there. If you don't, your fingers may be enough, but be VERY careful not to accidentally push the object in further.

If you're not sure if you can reach it, or if you don't think you can get a grip, don't try; move on to the next option immediately.

Note: Be exceptionally careful of anything that could be sharp, like a chunk of bone. Things like toys and balls are designed to not be sharp and won't puncture the mouth or throat, but something like a broken piece of bone or a stick can lacerate the inside of the mouth or the throat. You don't want to cut or scrape them removing it if you can help it.

Labradors and a few other breeds have a cavity in the top of their mouths where an object can become stuck. This cavity makes it less likely that the lodged object is going to hinder their breathing, but it still causes distress, and the object will still obviously need to be removed.

"Some dogs, such as Labradors, have an additional cavity at the top of their mouth where objects can become lodged. If a solid object is lodged at the back of the throat (e.g., rawhide or a pig's ear), one person should hold the mouth open extremely carefully (try to press their lips over their teeth to protect your fingers) and another reach into the dog's mouth with tweezers or forceps to grasp the item and remove it. Do not push at the object with your fingers as you may lodge it deeper – it may be possible to dislodge rawhide with tweezers. Do not stick your fingers down the throat or finger sweep to try and locate an object, as this is likely to cause damage to the delicate tissues at the back of the throat." - firstaidforpets.com

A second option for all breeds, if the object is large, like a chunk of rawhide or a tennis ball, is to do an external extraction technique, when you push the item out by doing a maneuver on their throat.

You’ll begin by laying you pup on their back, then using two thumbs at the base of their throat, press upwards, looking to find the object and force it up and out of their mouth.

Check out this step-by-step demonstration of this saving technique:

Performing the Canine Heimlich Maneuver

The Heimlich maneuver is a way of dislodging something stuck in a person's throat. Also known as abdominal thrusts, in humans, you perform it by slapping the person on the back between the shoulder blades with the heel of your hand and, if that alone doesn't work, grasping them from behind and firmly squeezing their stomach to provide force from beneath the lodged object and get it free.

Canine abdominal thrusts or doggy Heimlich is a similar but different procedure.

Here's how to perform the Heimlich maneuver based on your dog’s size:

For small dogs:

• Hold the dog upside down by the legs and shake downwards gently but firmly 3-4 times. This feels cartoonish, like you're shaking money out of someone's pockets, but it's effective.
• Alternatively, hold the dog firmly with their back to your stomach. Grasp them such that your hands are below their rib cage, and pull in and up firmly. Your goal is, again, to create internal pressure and force the object up and out.

For large dogs:

• Hold your dog's backside up with their head downwards and their hind legs up towards you. Lift their hind legs like a wheelbarrow.
• Use the same basic procedure to put pressure on their abdomen, forcing the object up and out.
• Alternatively, lay them down on their side, with their back against your knees. Pull in on their abdomen; the same procedure as above, just from the side instead. This is most useful for giant breeds.

Check out this great video demonstration of the Heimlich technique:

If this works, great! If not, make sure to rush your dog to the vet ASAP. They have tools that can make it easier to remove a stuck object, the training to do so quickly, and additional facilities to help resuscitate your dog if they've stopped breathing entirely.

What If Your Dog Stopped Breathing?

If you’ve been able to remove the obstruction, but your dog has stopped breathing, you should immediately begin CPR.

Canine CPR involves repeated compressions on the chest of the dog to stimulate the heart and lungs into operating again. You need to be hard and fast, at 100-120 compressions per minute (which is just under two per second), making sure your dog's chest springs back fully after each compression. Perform 30 of these – so, fifteen seconds – before giving rescue breaths.

Rescue breaths are a way of using your lungs to force air into theirs. Close their mouth, cover their nose with your mouth, and exhale into their nose until you see their chest rise. Do this twice.

Alternate between 30 compressions and 2 breaths while heading for the emergency vet. Don't stop unless your dog starts breathing again on their own.

Here's a guide from the Red Cross on pet CPR for more detailed instructions.

If You Got the Object Out, Do You Still Need a Vet?

Yes.

Having something stuck in your dog's throat is a traumatic experience. Not only mentally, but physically too.

In the best cases, there's no lasting internal damage. There may be some soreness in their throat, and they may feel uncomfortable while the inflammation subsides, but often no additional action is needed.

In other cases, though, the item that was lodged may have done damage on the way going in or coming out.

• Your dog might have a cut, laceration, puncture, or other wound inside their throat that needs attention. This could need stitches, or it could need emergency surgery in the worst cases.
• If your dog was stuck without oxygen for too long, they may need additional attention to help nurse them back to health. This isn't usually the kind of attention you can give them at home.

In any case, always take your dog in for a vet check-up after a choking incident to make sure nothing is wrong. They'll do an inspection, and they can help repair any damage that occurred, administer painkillers if necessary, and even fluids and other treatments if required.

There's nothing quite so stressful as a choking dog, but with the right training and quick thinking, you can save their life.

If you ever have any non-medically-urgent questions or concerns, please feel free to leave me a comment down below! I may not be a vet, but I'm always more than happy to assist you and your furry friends however I can.

One thing you might wonder is, does heartworm affect cats? After all, when you see commercials for heartworm medications, they're almost always for dogs. Can cats even get heartworm?

Well, while most commonly associated with dogs, heartworms can insidiously infiltrate our cats posing a significant threat to their health and vitality.

As usual, I’ve thrown in a great educational video. This time by Willard Veterinary about the heartworm infection process. This is a must-watch!

So, how do you protect your fuzzy feline friend from this horrible disease? As with so many things in life, the first step is education.

What is Heartworm?

Heartworm (scientifically known as Dirofilaria immitis) is, unfortunately, exactly what it sounds like. The heartworm is a parasite that can grow up to a foot long. It lives primarily in the blood vessels in the heart and lungs and can damage both of them, often fatally.

Heartworm disease is transmitted by mosquitos and can be indirectly transmitted between certain animal species. When a mosquito bites an infected animal, they carry the heartworm larvae from that animal to the next animal they bite.

Once transmitted, the larvae develop into adult worms that will produce more larvae increasing the number of worms in the carrier.

One of the dangers of heartworm is that the worms damage the tissues and vessels they live in, which means even once the worms are killed or removed, the damage can remain.

Given the potential for permanent damage, prevention is key, but we’ll get to that in a bit.

In the meantime, check out this video for a full explanation of the heartworm infection process:

Does Heartworm Affect Cats?

Yes, it does. Truthfully, almost any mammal can get heartworm. While dogs are what is known as the "definitive carrier," meaning it's a disease that primarily affects dogs, heartworms can spread to other animals as well.

Affected animals include cats, wild canids like wolves and coyotes, jackals, foxes, ferrets, and even creatures like bears, seals, and sea lions. In extremely rare cases, even humans can get it! However, not from pets. More on this below.

Luckily, heartworm is relatively rare in cats, and it doesn't affect cats in the same way that it affects dogs. For some reason, heartworms don't generally thrive in cats and almost never reach the adult stage.

“Heartworm disease in cats is a bit different than in dogs. Heartworms in cats do not live as long (average lifespan is only 2 to 4 years) or grow as long, and fewer of them mature into adults.” – US Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

While larvae heartworms can still cause damage, cats rarely have adult worms, and when they do, it's only a couple of them instead of the dozens or hundreds like a dog can end up with.

It's estimated that cats get heartworm at about 5-20% of the rate that dogs in the same area do.

"Cats are relatively resistant to heartworm infection when compared to dogs, with the infection rate in cats reported to be 5-20% of the rate in dogs in the same geographic location. Typically, cats have fewer adult worms than dogs, usually less than six. Many pet owners are surprised to learn that approximately 1/3 of infected cats live indoors only." – VCA Animal Hospitals.

Larvae heartworms do still cause damage, though.

“you can start to see signs of pathology in an affected animal’s body, even though the parasite has not yet reached maturity.” – Dwight Bowman, DVM, PhD

Heartworm infections invoke an inflammatory response in the vessels and arteries even when they die. Because heartworms primarily affects the lungs in cats, veterinarians often refer to it as HARD (or Heartworm Associated Respiratory Disease).

Can Heartworm in Cats Be Treated?

Yes, heartworm in cats can be treated. However, treatment is only effective at the early stages of the infection while heartworms are still babies. There isn’t a treatment for heartworms once they become adults in cats. So monthly heartworm prevention medicine is critical.

Current treatments for heartworm are intended for dogs and they do not work very well in cats. Melarsomine is a medication used to treat heartworms in dogs. This medication kills the worms in dogs quite effectively.

Unfortunately, melarsomine doesn't work very well in cats. The medication has severe side effects in cats, so much so that it's considered toxic.

It does work to kill worms present in the cat, but those dead worms can obstruct the lung's blood vessels and, in many cases, causes sudden death in the poor feline fur baby taking the medication. Obviously, you don't want that, which is why most vets won’t prescribe it.

“There is no known safe and effective adulticidal treatment available for feline heartworm disease. There is no scientific evidence that any treatment intended to kill adult heartworms in dogs will safely do so in cats and increase their infection survival rate” – Maddie’s Fund

There are two-ish treatment options for cats with heartworm.

The first is to treat the symptoms and hope. Worms don't live as long in cats as they do in dogs (only about 2-3 years, instead of the 5-7 they do in dogs.) That means it's possible to give your fuzzy feline treatments like oxygen in a crisis and corticosteroids to keep them fighting through the infection.

The goal of this option is to help the cat fight to survive the infection while preventing further worms from growing in the kitty. Unfortunately, there's always the risk of a worm blocking an artery and causing sudden death, and there's not much that can be done about that.

The second option is surgery. Open heart surgery can be performed to remove the worms in the cat's system, and since there are usually less than half a dozen adult worms present, it's easier to get them all than it would be in a dog.

"Studies have shown that up to 40% of cats may die during or after this procedure, so surgical heartworm removal is typically reserved for those cats who have severe disease and a poor prognosis without surgery." – VCA.

Sadly, there are no other treatment options currently available for cats with heartworm.

The only saving grace is that, since heartworms don't thrive in cats the way they do in dogs, many cats infected by worms show very few symptoms, such that you might never notice they have an infection in the first place. It's only a small fraction that advance enough to show symptoms and end up in a life-threatening position.

Can You Prevent Heartworm in Cats?

Yes, you can. Extremely effective heartworm prevention is not only possible, but it’s readily available for pet parents from several companies.

While severe heartworm disease isn’t common in cats, the fact that there are really no treatment options specifically intended for cats means prevention is key.

Preventative medications circulate through a cat's body and kill off any young larval worms that may have been deposited by infected mosquitos.

These medications are completely effective at killing the early larvae worms. The caveat is that if the worms are allowed to molt into their adult stages, the medications no longer work on them.

Since heartworms can molt to their adult stage in as little as 51 days, you need to give your fur baby a preventative medication more frequently than that.

For that reason, most vets recommend monthly heartworm preventatives. These can be pills, chews, or topical meds, all of which are approved for use in cats.

Heartworm prevention medications are generally safe and can be given to cats even younger than 8 weeks of age, which is great because even kittens can get heartworm.

This is a lifelong treatment; once your kitten is old enough to get the medication, you give it to them on a regular schedule for their entire lives.

Can I Buy Heartworm Cat Medication Over the Counter or On the Internet?

Unfortunately, no. Heartworm prevention medications are prescription-only.

FDA WARNING: “Heartworm prevention medications are prescription only—so beware of internet sites or stores that will sell you these medications without a prescription.” - US Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

The added hurdle exists for two reasons:

• Dosage is very important, and if you don't give your cat enough of the medication for their weight class, it might not be effective.
• If a cat has an already-active heartworm infection, the medication has a rare but serious chance of causing dangerous reactions or death. Any cat other than a newborn kitten will need to be examined before the prescription can be written.

All of that said, cats are generally safer than dogs when it comes to heartworm, so while you should keep them on preventative medications, you don't necessarily have to worry quite as much about it.

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Note: Keeping your cat indoors doesn't prevent heartworm. Infected mosquitos can get in through doors, windows, and cracks, and there's no way to tell whether or not they're infected until it's too late.

Even indoor-only cats should be given heartworm prevention medications on a regular schedule.

Are There Home Remedies for Heartworms?

No. There are no home remedies capable of preventing heartworms, nor are there home treatments that can cure a cat with worms.

While I'm normally fine with trying home remedies when they have a chance of helping, this is one case where there's absolutely nothing that can be done safely outside of FDA-approved preventative medications, and it would be ethically wrong of me to tell you otherwise.

"There are no home remedies for heartworm in cats. The only "natural" or "organic" home remedy for heartworm in cats is to consider treatments that center on preventing or warding off mosquito bites." - Chewy.com

Dogs may have some options, but that's a topic for another time, and since there are treatment medications that can work in dogs, the risk of a home remedy failing isn't nearly as bad as it is with cats.

What Are the Symptoms of Heartworm in Cats?

Some of you may have adopted a stray cat, taken in a cat with an unknown medical history, or are just getting worried because you didn't know how dangerous heartworm can be for cats, and now you're starting to wonder. Does your cat have heartworm?

Sometimes, a heartworm infection won't show any symptoms at all.

Other times, some symptoms can show up, so it’s good to know what to look for.

Symptoms of heartworm disease can include:

• Coughing
• Asthma-like attacks and difficulty breathing
• Pale gums
• Periodic vomiting
• Lack of appetite and weight loss

In extreme cases, they may also have:

• Difficulty walking
• Seizures
• Fainting
• Fluid accumulation in the belly
• Collapsing and sudden death

If you've read these and thought to yourself, "But that's just what any illness does to a cat," you're unfortunately correct.

Most of these symptoms are the generic "something is wrong" with a cat, so it can be difficult to tell the difference between a heartworm infection and a cold.

If your fur baby is sick, the best thing to do is take them to the vet. The vet can then do an exam, including blood tests, x-rays, and antigen tests, to see if there are any signs of heartworm.

If there aren't, you can just ensure that your fur baby is on a preventative medication and move on to treating whatever is causing their symptoms.

What Else Should You Know?

There are some additional details that might be helpful to know.

Heartworm isn't directly contagious between cats.

A cat with heartworm isn't going to infect another cat or dog for that matter. Because the disease needs an intermediary host, the mosquito, removing any stagnant water from around your home and treating for mosquitos can reduce the risk of infection.

Why are cats more immune to heartworm than dogs?

Well, it's not entirely clear, other than the fact that heartworm is a dog-centric parasite and evolved to infect canines, not felines. The fact that it can infect non-canines at all is an oddity, in a way.

Will a cat recover from heartworms?

Maybe. Some cats with heartworm infection do spontaneously resolve. If a cat can outlive a heartworm infection, they can then be put on preventatives to keep it from happening again.

However, the damage done by the worms before they die is permanent, so your cat might be stuck with difficulty breathing or a reduced energy level for the remainder of their life.

Unfortunately, there's no feline vaccine for heartworms yet. Preventative medications are antiparasitics that kill the larvae if they show up, but like any medication, they wear off over time.

A vaccine would train the cat's immune system to detect and fight off the worms instead, but no such vaccine has yet been developed. Maybe one day!

Can People Get Heartworms from Their Pets?

No. People cannot get heartworms from their pets. As discussed above, heartworms are only transmitted by the bite of an infected mosquito. In rare cases, people may get heartworms via a mosquito bite.

However, given the fact that humans are not a natural host for heartworms, the larvae usually die before becoming adult worms.

How Can I Learn More About Heartworms in Cats?

• Ask your veterinarian.
• Call the FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine at 240-402-7002 or email askcvm@fda.hhs.gov
• Visit the American Heartworm Society
• Visit Pets & Parasites
• Visit the Companion Animal Parasite Council (CAPC) website

Finally, heartworms are historically most common in the American South, but unfortunately, they have spread.

Various factors, like climate change and cross-country animal adoption have contributed to the spread. Consider the number of animals that have been adopted across the US after major hurricanes have hit the southern states.

Even though mosquitos might not be around all year 'round, at this point, it's a big enough risk that vets recommend preventatives all year. From the American Heartworm Society:

"For a variety of reasons, even in regions of the country where winters are cold, the American Heartworm Society is now recommending a year-round prevention program... Mosquito species are constantly changing and adapting to cold climates, and some species successfully overwinter indoors as well. Year-round prevention is the safest and is recommended." – American Heartworm Society.

Keep your fuzzy feline friend safe and remember, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Do you have any non-urgent questions about heartworm or how you can prevent it in your fur baby? If so, you're always more than free to leave a comment down below, and I'll do my best to get back to you as soon as possible!

Is it a bad thing, or is it normal?

How do you deal with your dog's crusty eyes and noses, and when should you call the vet? Read on to find out more!

As usual, I’ve thrown in a great educational video. This time by Emergency Vets about the Nasal Hyperkeratosis. Had you heard of such a condition before? This is a must-watch!

What Are Crusty Eyes (and Noses)?

Crusty eyes happen when fluid dries around the eyes, which you might think of as eye goop or eye boogers. The technical term for this is "discharge," and it's usually perfectly normal.

Some dogs are more prone to it than others, some breeds are more likely to have it, and different environmental factors can cause it.

On the other hand, a crusty nose is usually the result of a nose that has cracked and is scabbing over. It can also be caused by an overgrowth of skin, but we’ll get into that more later.

It’s important to note that a crusty nose is not the same thing as a dry nose, which is much more common. A crusty nose will feel scaly to the touch and will likely have discharge that has dried out. You may also notice different colors on certain areas of the nose.

Eye discharge and a crusty nose can be normal, but there are some reasons where it’s considered abnormal and needs to be addressed by a veterinarian.

What Causes Crusty Eyes in Dogs?

Dog’s crusty eyes are caused by eye discharge that dries when exposed to air. The discharge can be triggered by a bunch of different factors from an infection to allergies to more serious issues including conjunctivitis, epiphora and glaucoma amongst other factors.

It most often crops up when doggos are sleeping, so when your bright-eyed and happy pup comes to say hi in the morning, you'll see an unexpected face staring back at you.

Here are the most common causes of crusty eyes and eye discharge in dogs.

Eye-Affecting Allergies

Those of us who have eye allergies know how annoying they can be. Dust, pollen, dander, and other environmental nastiness cause itching, red, and watery eyes.

Allergy-caused discharge is usually clear. When those excess tears dry up, they leave the crust behind.

Eye allergies are technically known as "allergic conjunctivitis" and, when left unaddressed, can lead to pink eye. Which, as it so happens, is the second item on this list.

"Your veterinarian may perform several brief tests to rule out diseases with similar symptoms, like eye infections, dry eye, or corneal ulcers. Other details, like your dog's age, breed, and history of itchy skin, can also help point your veterinarian to this diagnosis." - PetMD.

Pink Eye

Pink eye is technically just known as conjunctivitis, and it happens whenever something affects the eye and leaves it red, painful, irritated, and otherwise tearing up as the body tries to flush it out and fight off whatever is causing the issue.

While allergens are one possible cause, conjunctivitis is also very commonly caused by viral and bacterial infections.

“One of the most common eye ailments is conjunctivitis, when the pink membrane that surrounds the eye and the lining of the eyelids becomes inflamed… If you see redness, discoloration or discharge, you might want to call a veterinarian.” - The Humane Society of The United States

In these cases, you'll probably need to get it diagnosed at the vet and get appropriate medication to help take care of it. This may be antibacterial eyedrops, or something else, depending on the cause of the infection.

Now, here's the double whammy of dog conjunctivitis. If you suspect your dog has conjunctivitis you should ensure you wash your hands after petting them as humans can sometimes get it from their dogs.

“It may surprise you to learn that, while it's very unlikely that you will catch conjunctivitis from your dog it is possible if the cause of your pup's eye condition is a parasite such as roundworms.” - MVS – Memphis Veterinary Specialists

Can you imagine taking your dog to the vet for conjunctivitis and while there having the vet check your eyes too?

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Epiphora

Those little tear ducts you and your fur baby have in the corners of your eyes aren't there to produce tears. They're actually drains, funneling away excess tears into the sinuses and eventually down the back of the throat.

Well, some dogs (and some people) have a condition called epiphora, which means that they have constantly watery, tear-filled eyes. Basically, the glands that produce tears are working overtime all the time, and the tear ducts aren't able to handle disposing of those tears.

"The problem lies in the duct not being able to properly dispose of excess tearing, which is especially common in flat-faced dog breeds. Sometimes, the stream of tears can result in tear stains, aka the darkened fur around the eyes, especially for light-colored dogs. The overabundance of tearing can also lead to infected, smelly skin." - Rover.

Tear stains can be an annoying problem in dogs, especially those with white fur. So much so, in fact, that I wrote a whole guide about how to get rid of them over here. Check it out!

Epiphora is technically just the name for watery eyes, but it's usually referenced as a symptom of another problem.

While it might be caused by conjunctivitis, it can also be caused by things like ingrown or misplaced eyelashes, tear duct problems, or even glaucoma.

You'll need to talk to your vet to diagnose the specific issue and determine treatment.

An emergency vet visit may be warranted if excessive tearing is accompanied by squinting and pawing of the eye.

“If excessive tearing is accompanied by squinting or pawing of the eye, or if the excessive tearing should occur suddenly, this should be taken as an obvious sign of eye pain, and veterinary attention should be sought at once. Any accompanying loss of vision is also an emergency.” - Veterinary Partner

Dry Eye

Have you ever felt like every time you blink, you're rubbing sand over your eyes? Dry, irritated eyes are kind of the opposite of epiphora, but it's still potentially going to cause eye crustiness. Dry eyes have a bunch of different causes.

In dogs, dry eyes can be a serious problem. They don't have a way to handle it, and when every blink risks causing damage to the cornea, you need to get it looked at ASAP.

Officially known as keratoconjunctivitis sicca, dry eyes syndrome can be caused by anesthesia, antibiotics, and tear duct issues, and there can be environmental factors as well.

“This disease can start off slowly with more eye sleep goobers in the morning or can be acute due to a reaction to a medication or if it was missed inadvertently at the beginning of clinical signs” - Dr. Chantale Pinard – American Kennel Club

The biggest risk here is that dry eyes don't produce enough tears, so any irritants that get in the eyes don't get flushed away. This includes bacteria, dust, dirt, and other nastiness. If left untreated, it can even lead to blindness!

Eye Injuries

One of the most obvious causes of crusty eyes is an eye injury.

Any time the eye gets damaged, the body tries to protect and heal it the only way it knows how: through inflammation, tears, immune system action, and natural healing.

This can be as little as a tiny scratch on the eyelid or eye itself, a bit of dirt jabbing it, or a much larger problem.

I would also classify eye tumors as eye injuries since they can display the same symptoms and have similar treatments.

"In addition to changes in discharge, other signs can include a visible foreign object, scratching or pawing at the face, or a bloody or bloodshot eye. Eye injuries can have serious complications, so see a vet immediately if you suspect your dog hurt their eye." – Rover.

What Causes a Crusty Nose in Dogs?

While much less common than crusty eyes, a crusty nose can still be a problem for some pups. Causes can range from benign to needing extensive care, so it’s important to know what’s causing your pup’s nose to be crusty.

Benign Causes of a Crusty Nose

The benign causes of a crusty nose will likely begin as a dry nose and can be resolved at home when addressed quickly. Left untreated it can lead to a more irritated crusty nose. Benign causes include:

• Dehydration
• Allergies
• Low Humidity
• Sunburn

Medical Causes of a Crusty Nose

You’ll need help from a doctor to identify the cause of a crusty nose if it doesn’t appear to be environmentally related. Some of the medical causes include:

• A dry nose that is cracked is more prone to having a bacterial or fungal invader setup shop leading to more severe irritation.
• Nasal Hyperkeratosis. A condition where excessive keratin builds up on the nose.
• Discoid lupus erythematosus (DLE). An auto-immune disease that causes your pup’s body to attack its own skin cells. You may also notice your dog’s nose is more prone to bleeding.

“There are several other conditions that also cause crusts and/or erosions on the nose, so it is important to get the right diagnosis. Some other conditions to rule out include: Dermatophytosis (ringworm of the nose), Nasal pyoderma or Mucocutaneous pyoderma (Staph infection on the bridge of the nose), Pemphigus foliaceus (a different immune-mediated skin disease)…, Nasal lymphoma (a type of cancer), VKH-like syndrome (another immune-mediated disease)” - Veterinary Partner

Which Breeds Are At the Most Risk?

Some breeds are more prone to crusty eyes and noses than others. It's partly genetics and partly anatomy. Some dogs have a greater risk of malformed tear ducts or simply have faces that aren't properly set up to handle them.

Flat-faced dogs like pugs, boxers, bulldogs, and similar are all more prone to these issues.

Likewise, dogs with loose skin can develop eye issues when skin folds on their faces trap bacteria or other debris. Breeds like Bloodhounds, Cocker Spaniels, Beagles, Saint Bernards, and certain terriers can all have this issue.

A unique issue for these breeds is something called cherry eye. Cherry eye happens when the glands in the eye fall out of position and, often, out of the eye socket entirely, looking like a mass of redness next to the eye. This isn't a tumor, though it can look a lot like one, but it usually requires surgery to fix.

Dry noses can happen to any dog at any point during their lives. Unlike benign causes of dry and crusty noses, some dog breeds are known to be at a higher risk of crusty nose due to nasal hyperkeratosis.

Some of these breeds include: Mastiffs, Boxers, Bulldogs, Pugs, French Bulldogs, Poodles and German Shepherds amongst others.

Diagnosing Dog Eye and Nose Crust at Home

One of the first things to think about when you're diagnosing your fur baby's eye goop is how bad it is. If it's just a little bit of crustiness, it might be something to bring up at their next checkup, but it's probably not a big issue.

If it's a lot of crustiness, it might be something more important to have looked into. And, if there are other symptoms, like redness, pawing at the face, or weird colors, call your vet for an appointment.

Speaking of colors, different colors mean different things when it comes to eye goop and crustiness.

• Clear: This is generally caused by allergies and just general eye irritation. It's usually the most common and least concerning, so you'll probably see it a lot.
• Red/Brown: This is the color that crops up when tears are exposed to air and is what causes tear stains in lighter-furred dogs.
• White: Similar to clear, white discharge can be caused by allergies, dry eye, and other forms of irritation. It’s usually more dangerous than watery discharge, and you should call your vet if you see it.
• Green/Yellow: This is more like pus than tears, and it's a sign that there's an infection going on in or around the eye. At a minimum, you'll need antibiotics for your fur baby, and in extreme cases, they can even lose the eye, so get it checked out ASAP.

How do you know when to see a vet?

"In general, if your dog has watery, clear eye discharge for a day or two but their eyes look otherwise normal, and they are not scratching the eye and are keeping their eyelids open, it is likely nothing to be worried about. Reach out to your vet if your dog has watery eye discharge that lasts more than a few days or if you notice any of the following: red eyes, swollen eyes, rubbing of the eyes, squinting, excessive blinking, head shyness, or colored eye discharge." – Hills Pet.

Basically, anything abnormal or excessive is worth at least a call, and your vet will tell you what to do.

Unlike the eyes, a crusty nose isn’t going to happen overnight. If you notice your pup has a dry nose, take steps to identify when it’s happening.

Always ensure your pup has access to clean water, especially on hot days. So long as there are no infections present, your vet may recommend that you keep your dog’s nose moisturized.

Dog’s Nasal Hyperkeratosis | Emergency Vets USA | 3-Min Video

You can use a nose/paw balm to help rehydrate your pup's dry nose. Two things are important here.

First, given that nose-licking is part of a dog’s everyday checklist, you should make sure to pick a 100% natural option.

There are plenty of dog moisturizing balms options in the market today. As you’ll notice, many claim “100% natural ingredients.” This is both interesting as well as dangerous as anybody can claim that.

Be advised that some of these options may contain “100% natural ingredients” that contain traces of toxic and harmful chemicals due to unsafe manufacturing practices.

Keep in mind that not all ingredients in dog (or cat) products are manufactured using best manufacturing practices so even if they are truly 100% natural, they may not be 100% safe for your dog. The way they are manufactured matters big time.

You should never take "100% natural ingredients" claims as a proxy for safety, harmlessness or non-toxic. We cannot emphasize this enough. We discuss this topic in greater detail here. You can also learn more about what the USDA certified organic seal represents here.

Your best bet will always be to pick a USDA certified organic balm option. Only an endorsement by the world's most reputable organic certifying body can ensure you are getting a harmless and non-toxic product made with USDA certified organic ingredients. USDA certified organic balms are the only lick safe option for your dog.

Our Momma Knows Best USDA Certified Organic Hydrate and Revive moisturizing and healing balm has been formulated to promote fast healing and reduce inflammation on the nose, elbows, and toe beans.

As we like to emphasize at toe beans, for all dog and cat products that claim “100% organic and natural ingredients,” if they are not USDA certified organic, they may neither be organic nor safe at all. Otherwise, these products would opt to comply with and carry the USDA certified seal of quality assurance.

And the second important consideration here is that even when using a certified organic option, make sure to apply it when your pup is resting so they don’t lick it off. This will ensure that the balm has a chance to work on the skin.

Keep in mind that a vet visit may be warranted if your dog’s nose seems to be getting thicker or crustier over time.

Can You Treat Eye Crust at Home?

Yes and no. A lot depends on what your vet tells you to do.

Cleaning the eye crust off of your dog's face is pretty simple; just wipe it off with a warm wet washcloth or dog eye comb. A warm washcloth will be your best bet if your fur baby's eye is glued shut with the goop.

Don't just rub at it with your fingers, though, since it's a sensitive area. You don't want to push the crust into the eye, scratch the eye, or irritate the area further by introducing bacteria.

Another option is an eye wash. Eye washes are generally eyedrops with lubricating properties, and they may be anything from saline to a glycerin mix. They're designed to be lubricating, non-irritating, and non-toxic, so any excess your fur baby licks up won't do them any harm.

If your dog has signs of something more than just a night's irritation causing crusty eyes, you should talk to your vet rather than try to just deal with it at home.

They may tell you it's fine and you should just keep your fur baby's eyes clean, in which case, you're good to do just that. On the other hand, they may want to bring them in and diagnose the specific cause, and give you specific treatments.

What kinds of treatments? You may be given medicated eyedrops or eye swabs, antibiotics, antihistamines, or other kinds of treatments to apply. Many pups don’t like to have stuff put in their eyes, so an extra set of hands is always helpful.

Pro Tip: Give them a bit of peanut butter to distract them.

Normal discharge should be minimal and should go away on its own, but if the amount increases or changes color, talk to your vet.

Should You Use Cotton Balls?

I'm giving this one special attention because I've seen it go both ways. Some vet sites recommend it since cotton balls are soft, absorb moisture well, and are gentle to use.

Others say you should avoid it because cotton balls are just bundles of fibers, and those fibers can come loose and get in your fur baby's eye, further irritating it.

Personally, I don't recommend cotton balls. There are great alternatives, like washcloths and microfiber cloths, and a whole variety of non-cloth options for cleaning around the eyes. Look for lint-free fabrics to use.

Do you have a dog with a lot of eye or nose crustiness? If so, what have you found out about it, and how have you dealt with it? Let me know if anything in this post has helped you out!

But before your pup starts having issues with their teeth, you’re likely to see problems with their gums.

In today’s post I go an inch deep and a mile wide to discuss dog gums. I’m going to talk about what healthy gums look like and we’re going to run through the gamut of visual changes in unhealthy gums.

As usual, I’ve included a great educational video. If your dog has swollen gums, this video is for you.

Your dog may be suffering from a condition known as Gingival Hyperplasia. While generally not considered an emergency, it could turn into one. Find out why by watching the video.

If you’re looking for more trustworthy and research-based dog parent education content, you in the right place. I’ve sprinkled some great related articles throughout the post. Enjoy!

Let’s dig in. Shall we?

What Do Healthy Dog Gums Look Like?

There are three good indicators of healthy dog gums: color, texture, and smell. Since healthy gums are a sign of overall healthy dogs, it's a good idea to be familiar with your dog's gums because changing colors and patterns as well as more obvious symptoms (that I'll get into below) can be signs of gum problems.

Color

Let’s start with the color. Dog gums are a lot like people's gums, in that they're a vibrant pink ranging from bubblegum to salmon in coloration.

That's just an average, though!

Some dogs have darker or lighter gums, and some are even spotted or mottled with darker colors.

When you know your fur baby is healthy, get a good look at their gums so you know what healthy gums look like.

You might even consider taking pictures if they have patterns, just so you have something to compare them to later.

Pro tip: If your dog has darker-colored gums normally, it can be hard to tell when they change colors, so a lot of the advice in the later part of this post will be difficult to apply. Instead, pull down their inner eyelid a bit and look there; the pink mucous membranes around the eye will give you a better indication of health.

Texture

The second important aspect in terms of healthy gum appearance is texture. Your dog's gums should be mostly smooth.

There will be little ridges around the base of the teeth, but otherwise, they'll be pretty flat.

There should be no deep redness, swelling, or lumps and bumps in unusual places, all of which can be a sign of something going wrong.

Texturally, your dog's gums are considered healthy when they're moist and slippery, just like your own gums. If they dry out, swell up, bleed, or are sticky or gooey, there's probably something wrong. Again, more on that later.

Odor

Then there's the odor, or rather, lack of it. Dogs are full of all sorts of crazy smells, from the standard dog stench to weirder things like frito foot or breath that smells like fish.

A healthy mouth and gums, though, should be relatively odorless. There will always be some smells if they've just recently eaten something (especially something gross that they shouldn't have), but there shouldn't be anything truly foul going on.

How Often Should I Check My Dog’s Gums at Home?

You should check your pup’s gums once or twice a month. Have your dog face you, lift his/her lips and examine the gums and teeth. And while you are at it, take a whiff.

What Do Unhealthy Dog Gums Look Like?

Now let's talk about what unhealthy gums look like. It's easier to talk about each distinct appearance and issue, what it means, and how to treat it, so you can browse by coloration or issue.

Bright Red Gums

Danger level: Moderate to Severe

If your dog's gums are bright, cherry red, it might be time to worry. If they've been playing or active recently, it might be fine, but the color should fade back to pink in just a few minutes. If it lingers, bring your pup to the emergency vet.

Bright red gums can indicate a variety of problems including heatstroke, carbon monoxide poisoning, exposure to a toxin, hypertension, shock, and a few kinds of poisonings.

Splotchy Red Gums

Danger level: Moderate to Severe

Splotches on your pup's gums can be a sign of a coagulation problem. If your fur baby has splotchy gums, check their ears and belly where there isn't much or any fur and look for similar splotches. Coagulation problems are considered an emergency and need treatment ASAP.

Red Along the Gumline

Danger level: Minor

If your fur baby has mostly healthy pink gums but they have a line of redness along the ridges where the gums meet the teeth, this is probably gingivitis.

Gingivitis can lead to periodontal disease, so if you don’t already, invest some time in an oral care routine by brushing your pup’s teeth.

So long as there are no signs of an abscess or infection, you're generally fine to keep an eye on red gums around the teeth until their next regular vet appointment.

Pale, Gray, or White Gums

Danger level: Moderate to Severe

Pale gums are often caused by anemia.

“Anemia is not a specific disease but rather is a symptom of some other disease process or condition. Anemia is a medical term referring to a reduced number of circulating red blood cells (RBCs), hemoglobin (Hb), or both.” - VCA Animal Hospitals

A wide range of diseases can lead to anemia, but so too can consuming something toxic. Consumption of garlic or onions for example can lead to anemia over several days after consumption. If you know or suspect your pup has consumed garlic or onions, contact the pet poison helpline.

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Trauma can also lead to pale gums. If your fur baby has been seriously injured or ran into something too hard, you'll obviously want to bring them in for a professional look ASAP.

If they don't seem obviously injured on the outside, pale gums can be a sign of internal bleeding and definitely requires immediate attention.

Yellow Gums

Danger level: Severe

Any time a body part goes yellow, the first thing you should think of is liver problems.

The liver is the body's natural filter and helps get rid of waste products and toxins, and when it isn't functioning right, the bile it uses will build up in the body.

If your fur baby's gums are yellow, check their lips, the whites of their eyes, and bits of their ears; it will all probably be turning somewhat yellow too.

All of this is a sign of something called icterus or jaundice, which is very dangerous. Bring your doggo into the emergency vet ASAP to get the issue looked at.

Blue or Purple Gums

Danger level: Severe

When gums go purple (a combination of natural redness and the blue of disease) or turn blue or blue-gray entirely, you've got a severe problem on your hands. Bring your fur baby to the vet immediately.

When your pup’s gums are blue it’s called cyanosis and is an indicator of low oxygen levels in the blood.

Blue gums can be caused by a variety of different problems, heart disease, heart failure, breathing problems including pneumonia and asthma, dangerous levels of hypothermia, choking, and some kinds of poisoning all cause this, and all need immediate treatment.

Sticky/Tacky and Dry

Danger level: Moderate to Severe

Sticky, tacky to the touch, or dry gums, can be a sign of dehydration. This can be temporary, like if they've been doing a lot of running around and playing and are panting a lot.

Always give your pup access to plenty of water (especially on hot days) and let them rest, then check again. If their gums are back to healthy, moist pink, they're fine.

It's important to note that dehydration has degrees of severity, and with each level, additional symptoms. If your pup is also vomiting, not eating or drinking, or has diarrhea, they might have more severe dehydration and will need to be seen by your vet.

Smelly Gums

Danger level: Minor to Moderate

Smelly gums come from bacteria in the mouth and scientifically is called halitosis. It's just bad breath caused by plaque on the teeth and bacteria in the mouth.

It's usually not eminently dangerous unless it's very advanced, which falls under other categories here too. Other odors can be more dangerous, but you can check my post on doggo bad breath up above for more details.

Swollen Gums

Danger level: Minor to Severe

Swelling in the mouth is pretty common when it's just the gums. In fact, you've almost definitely experienced it yourself.

All sorts of dental problems, including gum disease and gingivitis, lead to swollen gums. This is also usually accompanied by localized redness in the area, as noted above.

Unless you're dealing with a broken tooth, a bad abscess, or another severe dental injury, you're generally fine to just keep an eye on this and bring it up at your next vet appointment. More severe injuries to the jaw or teeth might demand a more immediate trip to the vet, though.

The main risk here is if the swelling is more than just the gums. If the tongue and cheeks or other parts of the mouth are swollen, it can be something more like an allergic reaction, which can obstruct breathing and cause other problems. Call your vet, evaluate how bad it is, and follow their instructions.

Bleeding Gums

Danger level: Minor to Severe

A little bit of bleeding in the mouth is really common. The mouth has a ton of capillaries and not a lot of protection, so it's pretty easy to injure.

With dogs, particularly if they have gum disease, the gums are likely to bleed when they're poked with anything slightly sharp, and even something like hard kibble can get caught or scrape a swollen bit of gum and cause some bleeding.

Playing with toys and fetching those exciting sticks can also rub already irritated gums causing them to bleed.

Generally, this will be very little bleeding and will stop right away. It can sometimes look like a lot if you have a drooly doggo because a little bit of blood can tint a lot of drool, but that's still nothing to be immediately worried about.

If your pup has gingivitis that has reached the point of bleeding gums, have a chat with your veterinarian as it’s likely time for a good dental cleaning.

Any more significant amount of blood in the mouth is likely due to injury or thrown up blood, which is a veterinary emergency.

Overgrown Gums

Danger level: Moderate

Overgrown gums may look distressing, but it's often not actually all that dangerous, at least not right away. The condition is known as gingival hyperplasia and the cause is not fully understood.

Some dogs have genetic issues that cause unchecked growth of the gums, slowly over time. It is also linked to some medications and resolves after discontinuation.

Check out this educational video about gingival hyperplasia. The video explains what gingival hyperplasia is and provides a dog parent’s perspective after their dog had the surgery to repair.

Gingival Hyperplasia in Dogs | 2:06 Min Video | by Hometown Animal Hospital & All Pets Dental

Receding Gums

Danger level: Minor to Moderate

Receding gums is a sign of gum disease, usually the advanced gum disease known as periodontal disease, but they can also be caused by stomatitis.

It’s a sign that more focus on oral health is necessary for your fur baby, but it's not always an urgent problem.

The main risk is that receding gums can lead to tooth loss and gum infection that can spread to the bone, and weaken the jaw, cause bone diseases, and otherwise cause more systemic problems.

Usually, aggressive oral care will be required and not a true emergency vet trip, but you should call your vet to get the next available appointment.

Lumpy or Bumpy Gums

Danger level: Minor to Severe

There are all kinds of lumps and bumps that can show up on the gums and in the mouth. These range from hard to soft, small to large, static to growing, and much more.

The problem here is that with so many causes, it's impossible to generalize.

These lumps can be small irritations and bumps that go away on their own, warts that need a little treatment, cysts that are completely harmless, or just weird oddities that don't mean anything.

On the other hand, they could be infected abscesses that require immediate treatment or cancerous tumors that have much worse repercussions.

Lumps are a big part of why it's important to keep an eye out on every part of your fur baby, to catch and monitor these issues early.

Closing Thoughts

Your dog’s gums can be a good indicator of your dog’s overall health. As discussed throughout this post, many different health issues and conditions can be spotted and caught early with a quick and periodic home gum inspection.

Checking your dog’s gums regularly at home is one of the lowest hanging fruit at every pet parent’s disposal to help their dogs stay heathy and live happy and fulfilled lives. It doesn’t take much, and it goes a long way.

If you notice changes in your pup’s gums it never hurts to give your vet a call to ask for advice.

Is this something your pup should be seen for immediately? Can it wait until their next appointment? Always remember to include details about the onset and any other symptoms your pup might have so your vet can give more informed advice.

Do you have any non-medically-urgent questions about your fur baby's gums? If so, I'd be more than happy to help you out however I can! Just leave me a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible.

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Maybe it's raised on the surface, or maybe it's deeper under the skin, and you need to poke and prod to really feel it out.

Whatever the case may be, it's a devastating thought, and our minds as pet parents immediately flash to all the horror stories and worst-case scenarios that could be coming. Is this it? The big one?

Truthfully, while it's never a good feeling, a mysterious lump isn't always a devastating illness.

There are plenty of reasons why a lump can form that can be easily treated or might not even need treatment, depending on its location and appearance.

So, if your cat has developed a lump, how do you know if it's a bad thing or not? Let's run down some of the causes and treatment options.

This week’s educational video is about cat lymphoma by Dr. Sue Ettinger a specialized cancer veterinarian. Lymphoma is one of the most common forms of cat cancer.

As with all things cats, for every pet parent, education is the first step. This video is a must watch.

Always Call Your Vet

This will be short and sweet, every lump should be checked out by a professional.

Even if you think you know what it is, pet health is full of similar-presenting ailments that have vastly different contexts and repercussions. It's always important to get any lump checked out, and old lumps should be monitored.

Now, will you need a trip to the emergency vet? Probably not.

Even the worst lumps tend to not grow so quickly that a matter of days makes a difference. The exception is if there are other signs that your cat's health is failing, like lethargy, lack of appetite, hindered mobility, or if the lump is characteristic of something like an infection and abscess, which needs to be treated immediately.

The best first step when you notice a lump is to call your vet.

They can ask some questions about the lump and your cat's behavior, and help you determine whether you should bring them in immediately or schedule an appointment for some time in the next few days.

What a Lump Might Be

Now let's go through the options of what a lump might be.

Lumps can be caused by a lot of different things. Some of them are easily treatable, some are safe and can be ignored, and some are dangerous.

Some might even go away on their own or with a simple treatment, while others won't. Here's a rundown of the kinds of things that can cause lumps.

Trauma. Have you ever bumped into something and had a bruise that wasn't just a tender spot but kind of tightened up and felt hard to the touch? That can happen in cats, too.

A trauma lump generally happens if your fur baby misses a jump and bangs into something, runs into something too hard, or is struck by something.

They heal on their own, but they'll be tender, and you still might want to make sure your cat doesn't have internal injuries that need more treatment.

Bites. Insect and parasite bites (like mosquitos, spiders, ants, fleas, insect stings, and so forth) will often leave a small, raised bump in the skin.

Most of the time, these are raised, reddish, irritated, potentially painful, and almost always really itchy.

They'll also go away on their own, though if your cat has fleas, ticks, or other parasites, you need to get those treated first. You also need to make sure they aren't allergic to whatever got them.

Skin tags. A skin tag is just a small patch of skin that grows abnormally, but not in a cancerous way. They can be a little unsightly and, if they're in certain spots, can interfere with your cat's behavior, but 99% of the time, they're perfectly fine and ignorable.

They aren't painful, they aren't irritating, and the cat generally won't even pay attention to them. They also don't need to be removed unless, again, they end up disrupting your cat's behavior (such as if one grows too close to an eye and obstructs their vision.)

Abscesses. An abscess is a self-contained infection, usually caused by some kind of injury that gets infected. You can see them in infected teeth or where puncture wounds from other animal bites broke the skin.

They start small and invisible, but once they grow enough, the pus-filled abscess swells to the point that it causes pain, irritation, and more systemic effects of an infection like lethargy and fever. Abscesses need to be treated by a vet by draining them surgically and a course of antibiotics.

“Cats who are allowed to freely roam outdoors are most at risk of cat fights, and the resulting bites and scratches and infections. Abscesses are painful, pus-filled swellings that can be associated with fever, lack of appetite, and depression, and need immediate veterinary attention.” - Dr Catherine Tiplady - RSPCA Pet Insurance

Cysts. Cysts are sacs of a tough material that fills with, usually fluid. They're often small and grow slowly, if at all, and they aren't painful or dangerous unless they're in a position that bothers your cat and hinders their behavior.

Most of the time, a cyst is ignorable, but if it grows too large or is positioned badly, it may need to be removed surgically. Draining a cyst is temporary; unless the full cyst, including the sac, is removed, it will fill back up over time.

Note: two particular kinds of cysts can be more bothersome and require removal. Sebaceous adenomas are cysts caused by clogged and inflamed hair follicles and show up primarily on the head, but can be anywhere.

Apocrine gland cystadenomatosis (try saying that three times fast) is dark-colored groups of cysts in the ear, which can be bothersome and need to be removed before they cause problems.

Granulomas. These bumps are usually circular and raised. They can appear anywhere on the body but are often seen on the lips. The exact cause isn’t well understood, but theories include some genetic predisposition and others suspect them to be caused by an allergic response.

Lipomas. A lipoma is a fatty growth that usually shows up under the skin. They are some of the most worrying because of how they're placed, but they're benign, slow-growing, and not painful or dangerous. Sometimes they may need to be removed if they might cause problems, but most of the time, they're fine.

Causes and Risks of Cat Lymphoma | Dr. Sue Ettinger | 11:34-Min Video

Warts. Also known as papillomas, are caused by a virus and are very rare in cats. They tend to only develop in very young, old, or immunosuppressed cats and may resolve on their own or need surgical removal. Something important to note is these are contagious to other cats.

Malignant tumors. This is the category broadly called "Cancer" and are, of course, the worst discoveries. Nearly 80% of all feline cancers fall into one of four categories, according to a study by the University of Missouri:

• Basal cell tumors at 26%
• Mast cell tumors at 21%
• Squamous cell tumors at 15%
• Fibrosarcomas at 15%

Cancers are the main reason why every lump needs to get checked out ASAP; they can move fast, spread throughout a body, and can end up deadly in a distressingly short amount of time.

It can happen to both young cats and older cats. Not all cancers are that aggressive, though, and many are treatable using modern surgical or medical techniques. It's critical to learn what you're dealing with to choose an appropriate treatment option.

Of the common types of feline cancers, each one behaves differently.

Basal Cell Tumors

These are the most common and the good news is they tend to be solitary tumors that grow slowly. The best part is they are typically benign in cats, with only 10% classified as malignant.

They often need surgery and radiation or chemotherapy to handle. They're skin-level tumors and show up primarily around the head and neck.

Squamous Cell Tumors

These skin tumors are usually located in areas with no hair and occur more often in light colored or white cats.

“The ultraviolet radiation of the sun damages the cat’s DNA, and its cells begin dividing and multiplying. The tumors that result from solar exposure occur most commonly in lightly pigmented or white cats in areas that are hairless or sparsely haired.” – Dr. Margaret McEntee, DVM

These tumors grow slowly and can vary in appearance. While these tumors can turn deadly, when caught early there are several treatment options.

Mast Cell Tumors

These tumors are typically found on the head, neck, and legs. While they are typically skin-level tumors they can also grow in the respiratory and digestive tracts.

Some mast cell tumors can be surgically removed, but if they spread, they need more advanced treatment.

Fibrosarcomas

These tumors can show up anywhere in the body and they tend to be very aggressive. Depending on the location and whether or not it has spread will determine treatment options.

Often surgical removal will be the first line of attack with the potential for radiation and chemotherapy.

Note: Fibrosarcomas have been linked to certain vaccine injection sites. Because of the high potential to get the diseases the vaccines protect against, and the low incidence of developing a fibrosarcoma, vaccines are still recommended.

“The incidence of these tumors is not known, but is reported to be about 1 in 10,000.” – UC Davis Veterinary Medicine

Other kinds of cancers can cause lumps and bumps, but the above four are by far the most common.

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Identifying a Lump and Picking a Treatment

Early detection of any lumps and bumps can make a big difference in the success of any treatment. Establishing and keeping regular brushing and petting routines with your cat will go a long way.

For cats, the best way to identify lumps and bumps is during brushing. Training your cat to tolerate things such as brushing as well as getting gently probed will ensure early detection of any abnormalities that might warrant attention.

You should get your cat used to you regularly touching and feeling specific areas including: the top of the head and down the cheeks, behind the ears, the chin and throat, the back and sides of the neck, the chest, the back, the stomach, around the groin, the armpits, the legs, the tops of the feet and between the toe beans.

When you find a lump, the first thing your vet is going to do is poke and prod at it to narrow it down. Sometimes, appearance alone can help identify it.

Other times, the lump is in or under the skin, so things like the consistency and movement of the lump can help identify what it is. For example, is it growing in the skin or under it? Is it soft and feels full of liquid or is it solid?

If the vet thinks the lump is suspicious, the next step is usually cytology using a fine needle aspiration (FNA). A fine needle aspiration uses a tiny needle to extract some of the cells from the lump and uses both microscopy and chemical procedures called "staining" to identify what the cells in the lump are. It's all quite complex and very interesting if you're curious.

In some cases, this procedure alone won't identify the lump, and you may need a biopsy.

A biopsy will either remove the whole tumor or just remove part of it, depending on how large it is, and that tissue will be sent to pathology. This will then identify whatever the lump is and recommend any treatments necessary to make sure there's no systemic disease.

Possible Treatments and Follow-Up Care

Lumps in cats fall into a few simple treatment options.

1. Watch and wait. If your veterinarian doesn’t think the lump looks suspicious, they will likely recommend you monitor it for any changes over time. Some lumps might just be a cosmetic issue, so if it isn’t causing problems or likely to grow, there is the possibility it can safely be ignored.

As with anything in medicine and veterinary, some veterinarians may disagree with a watch and wait approach.

“Whenever I hear a new client says that her previous doctor recommended “waiting and watching” a tumor, my response tends to be: “Wait and watch what? The cancer spreading?” - Paws and Claws Animal Hospital – Holistic Pet Center

A cyst is a good example of something that might fall into this category.

Years ago, my sister’s cat had a cyst on the top of his head that was quite large. She had it removed but could have left it alone as it wasn't causing any long-term harm.

Here is another case. Also many years ago, I was giving my angel Moosie some belly rubs when I felt a couple of lumps in his belly. As it turns out it was just fatty lumps and never needed any treatment.

Suffice it to say I’m not a vet or even a vet technician and I can only speak from my past experience. So, in my experience, a watch and wait approach has worked with my own cats and nephews.

My advice is that you use your best judgment. And when in doubt, just like you would do for yourself, get an opinion or second opinion from a professional.

2. They might need immediate treatment, including surgical draining or removal and antibiotics, as in the case of abscesses. They'll heal up once treated and won't reoccur.

3. They might need surgical removal. A simple surgical removal will cut out the lump and, if necessary, some amount of surrounding tissue to ensure all traces of the lump have been removed. Depending on the type of lump and whether or not there were clean margins, your veterinarian will determine if treatment can stop.

4. They might need a full course of cancer treatment, including surgical removal if possible, and a course of chemotherapy, radiation therapy, or a novel treatment option.

Depending on the age and health of your cat, your options may be limited.

Case in Point: My now angel Sosa had her first bump show up when she was around 16. Our vet didn’t even recommend aspirating it to determine what it was as her other health issues made her a poor candidate for any treatment options. She went on to fill our home with 3 more years of love.

When to Worry

If a lump has appeared out of nowhere and is growing quickly, if it's painful and red, if it affects your fur baby's behavior, if it's bleeding or leaking fluid, or if your fur baby has previously been diagnosed with cancer, a lump is worrying.

If, on the contrary it's small and isn't growing, not painful, and self-contained, take a deep breath, because it might be nothing.

No matter what the case may be, I cannot emphasize enough, you should always talk to your vet and get their opinion.

There's no real way to treat or even effectively diagnose most lumps from home, so you need veterinary care to ensure the best possible outcomes for your feline companion.

Keep in mind that benign tumors can turn into malignant ones.

“Even benign growths can turn cancerous, which is why it’s important to regularly check for masses on your pet and to let your vet know if anything has changed, even in a previously diagnosed benign growth.” - Jacksonville Community Pet Clinics

While most lumps can be handled and treated effectively, the sooner they're addressed, the better the outcomes.

If you have any non-medically-urgent questions about lumps on your cat, I'd be more than happy to help you out however I can. Just leave me a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible. As a final reminder, though, if you have any worries about a lump, it's always best to talk to your vet first to see what they think.

Not only do you worry that they're painful or a potential source of infection, but it also feels bad to think maybe you've done something, neglected something, or otherwise caused them somehow.

The truth is, hot spots are perhaps the single most common skin condition a dog can experience, and they show up all the time, though they're more frequent in the summer.

They can be irritating, distressing, frustrating, and painful, but they're also very treatable and even preventable if you know what to do.

So, read on to learn everything you need to know about hot spots in dogs, what causes them, how to identify them, and how to treat them. Make sure to watch the short educational bonus video.

What Are Hot Spots on Dogs?

Hot spots on dogs are raw, open sores that spring up on the skin, often seemingly out of nowhere.

I say "seemingly" because, if you're paying close attention, you can spot them before they grow; they often show up looking like little pimples or insect bites first before rapidly expanding into raw lesions.

Hot spots are more technically known as "acute moist dermatitis" (AMD) or "pyotraumatic dermatitis," both of which are just scientific names for a skin problem caused by factors including moisture and skin damage.

Dogs with hot spots often lick, scratch, and rub at the affected area, kind of just like how we people might pick at scabs or scratch at bug bites.

While they can pop up virtually anywhere, the most common places are on a dog’s head, legs, and hips. Sometimes they can be easily spotted while other times they may be hidden beneath matted fur.

This makes it critical for pet parents to ensure they follow basic routine grooming practices with their dogs.

For example, something as simple as brushing your pup regularly may alert you of any hidden sore areas thus allowing you to further investigate and uncover the issue early on.

The incidence of hidden hot spots is another reason why we highly discourage the use of so called furminators or rakes. Such products have the potential of causing substantial amount of pain and harm to a dog with hidden hot spots.

Instead, we recommend brushes that are not only gentle with a dog’s skin but also very effective. Toe beans EarthCare line of gentle dog and cat brushes may be a great alternative for your pup.

Though typically just an overgrowth of bacteria, hot spots can be painful.

“Although AMD typically only involves surface bacterial colonization (ie, overgrowth)—not true infection—lesions may progress quickly and result in folliculitis and, sometimes, furunculosis, especially without treatment.” - cliniciansbrief.com

What Causes Hot Spots on Dogs?

Hot spots are, essentially, an area of skin that is inflamed started by some other kind of skin irritation. Virtually anything with the potential to cause your dog to scratch, lick, or chew at their skin may cause a hot spot.

For example, your fur baby might get a bug bite, a flea infestation, a tick, a scratch, an allergic reaction, or some other kind of irritant on their skin. They then start to scratch and lick at it, which makes it worse and allows bacteria on the skin to get into it and fester.

This creates a feedback loop; the irritation, pain, and itching and scratching of the lesion makes your fur baby scratch and lick at it more (because it's all they can really do about it), and that, unfortunately, doesn't help. It keeps adding more damage to the area and moisture from their licking, which keeps the bacteria going and makes it worse.

Hot spots can be caused by:

• Trauma, such as a scratch, cut, or insect bite.
• Parasites like fleas or mites.
• Infections like ringworm or mange.
• Contact irritants like chemicals or plant-based irritants (poison ivy, stinging nettles, etc.)
• Ear Infections
• Allergic reactions, to flea bites, food of some sort, or even seasonal pollen.
• Grooming issues, in particular matted fur that traps moisture and dirt against the skin. As noted above, irritation after clipping or brushing could lead to hotspots.
• Excessive moisture from a source like swimming without being dried off or excessive licking due to boredom or stress.
• Genetic predisposition. Some breeds, like Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, and Bulldogs, are all more likely to get hot spots than other breeds.
• Infected of impacted anal glands.

“Dog breeds with thicker coats are more prone to hot spots because it is harder to get this thick hair completely dry once it gets wet. This causes moisture to get trapped against the skin, making the perfect breeding ground for bacteria to start a skin infection. Also, breeds that are prone to skin allergies are most likely to get hot spots.” – Dr. Chyrle Bonk

With so many different causes, it's a wonder that dogs aren't constantly covered in hot spots!

Hot spots are basically self-inflicted wounds. Whatever the initial cause happens to be, once the skin is injured, your dog likely licks at the area to soothe it, which adds moisture and helps their natural skin bacteria to proliferate.

The licking and scratching leads to further irritation and the growth of a hot spot, which left untreated could develop into an infection.

How to Recognize a Hot Spot on a Dog

Hot spots are generally pretty evident. They're a patch of skin where the fur has fallen out, where it's red and infected-looking, and moist. It may be leaking pus or other fluid, and it will be itchy and painful for your fur baby.

As noted above, they can show up anywhere on the body, and they can be all sorts of different sizes, so sometimes there's no easy identifier, but nine times out of ten, a sudden skin issue like this is going to be a hot spot.

What to Do When You Spot a Hot Spot on Your Dog

So, you’ve found a hot spot, now what?

The first step is to call your vet. While there are some home remedies you can try – and I'll get to them a bit later – usually, a vet will want to see your pup to assess the lesion.

It's not usually a case for an emergency vet, though. Hot spots show up quickly and can expand quickly, but they aren't immediately life-threatening.

So as long as you can take a few actions to help keep them from getting worse, you can wait a day or two before getting in on an appointment. Of course, a more advanced or infected-looking hot spot might be worth faster treatment.

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The main reason a vet will want to see your dog isn't just to treat the hot spot. Hot spots are so common that they're readily treatable, and every vet knows what to tell you to do, what to prescribe, and how to handle the situation.

The main reason a vet should examine your fur baby is to do two things.

1. Make sure it's actually a hot spot and not something worse, and
2. Try to identify why the hot spot occurred and how you can prevent them in the future.

To that end, your vet will probably want to run some tests. They'll do things like:

• Do a visual inspection to look for signs of parasites.
• Do a smear inspection to look at what bacteria are involved and make sure there's nothing unusual going on.
• Do a skin scraping to check for mites or mange.
• Check for a response to treatment for allergic reactions in case it's an allergy-induced hot spot.
• Perform a skin biopsy to make sure it's not something worse, like skin cancer.

The biggest benefit to having a professional assess the spot is getting the peace of mind of knowing whatever is causing the hot spots isn't something terrible and determining what the cause is so you can prevent it from happening again in the future.

How a Vet Will Treat a Hot Spot on a Dog

Your vet will likely begin treatment by clipping back the fur around the area. Since hot spots feed off of moisture, exposing it can help let it dry out.

From there, treatment will generally consist of a handful of different avenues, taken individually or together.

Your vet will likely want to clean the area, usually with an antiseptic solution of some kind, like chlorhexidine. They may also ask you to bathe your fur baby using a medicated shampoo for more full-body coverage and protection.

If there's a parasite or other nasty involved, there will be treatment for that as well. If fleas are causing hot spots, it makes sense to get rid of the fleas, right?

Similarly, if the infection on the skin is bad enough, topical antibiotics might be prescribed.

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Since hots spots can be caused by such a variety of issues, from impacted anal glands, to arthritis, to ear infections, your veterinarian will determine the cause and the correct course of treatment.

Usually, though, the primary treatment is going to be an oral (or occasionally injected) medication to treat the underlying cause of the hot spot. If it's an allergic reaction, they'll get an antihistamine or other allergy medicine.

If it's just an infection, they'll likely get antibiotics. If it's just caused from trauma and licking, they'll probably get a steroid to promote healing.

In extreme cases sedation at the vet may be required. Check out the video below where Miss Lola had to be sedated due to the seriousness of her wounds.

Dog Hotspots & Treatment at The Vet | 2 min Video by Boca Midtowne Animal Hospital

All of this, of course, works in tandem with an Elizabethan collar or e-collar, i.e. the cone of shame.

Since the biggest aggravating factor preventing hot spots from healing is your fur baby licking and scratching at them, using an e-collar to prevent them from going at it will help a lot.

After all of this treatment and some watchful care, a hot spot will generally resolve itself within 3-7 days. It'll take a little longer for the fur to grow back completely, but they're good to go in short order with the right treatment.

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How to Treat a Dog's Hot Spot at Home

If a skin lesion pops up on your pup for the first time, we always recommend having a vet assessment done. If your dog is sadly prone to hot spots, you’ll likely notice the issue in the early stages.

In this case, you may want to treat the hot spot at home.

Just like at the vet, the first step is to trim around the area with hair clippers to expose the irritated skin to help dry out the area.

While you're at it, look around for other mats and patches of fur where moisture can be trapped, as they can cause additional hot spots.

Next steps:

• Look for signs of fleas or other parasites. If your dog has them, you should visit the vet anyway to get a treatment lined up; otherwise, you're going to struggle with hot spots for a long time.
• Clean the area with warm soapy water or an antibacterial cleaner. Sprays, wipes, shampoos, and other options are all available without a prescription.
• Get that e-collar out. Your fur baby may not like it, but the single best thing you can do is prevent them from licking at their hot spots more than they have been. An e-collar also prevents your dog from licking potentially toxic substances in cases where you may opt to apply creams under your vet’s supervision.

You may also opt to use some human first-aid products and an antihistamine to help reduce the itching. Remember, always consult with your vet first to ensure the OTC medication is safe to give your pup.

“Apply a first-aid cream, such as Neosporin (the cream, not the ointment). For healthy dogs, a generic 1% hydrocortisone cream from the human first-aid shelf is safe and usually effective. It will need to be applied 3-4 times a day.” - Cornell Richard P. Riney Canine Health Center

If you opt to use products intended for human consumption under the supervision of your veterinarian, always ensure you use an e-collar.

The use of this devise will prevent your dog from licking potentially toxic substances such as zinc oxide which is common in many human skin ointments.

So long as there is no infection, and you prevent your pup from further irritating the area, your dog's hot spots will likely resolve on their own, though it may take a little longer than it would with oral medications and prescriptions on your side.

If the hot spots don't heal after a couple of weeks, or if they get worse, call your vet.

How to Prevent Hot Spots on Dogs from Happening Again

Preventing hot spots is all a matter of identifying why they're happening in the first place.

First of all, establish good grooming and cleanliness habits. Regular grooming can help you to identify skin irritation before it turns into a hot spot.

“A hot spot is easier to prevent than to treat, so try to keep your dog free of hot spots by grooming them regularly and keeping them up to date on flea and tick medication.” – Small Door Veterinary

From there, here are some very easy to follow tips:

• Make sure your fur baby's coat is brushed and clean. We have some great brushes for this if you need some. Mats trap moisture and bacteria and exacerbate hot spots.
• Any time your fur baby gets wet, make sure to dry them off thoroughly. That means bathing, rolling in puddles, jumping in the creek, or getting caught in the rain. Remember, moisture allows hot spots to flourish.
• Keep an eye out for, and treat any parasites that crop up. Fleas, ticks, and other parasitic infections can cause hot spots and make them more difficult to treat. Preventatives are always your best bet, though they can’t cover all insects that can bite your pup.
• Keep that e-collar on hand. It's better than a hard "cone of shame" but still effective at preventing licking and scratching.
• If there's an underlying cause, like an allergic reaction, identify the allergen and try to avoid it as much as possible. Sometimes this means keeping your fur baby away from that patch of nettles, and other times it means antihistamines during spring or fall.

Finally, make sure your fur baby has plenty of stimulation, and not just physically. Dogs can play fetch until the end of time and never wear out if you aren't adding some level of cognitive stimulation as well.

A bored dog is a dog that might start licking just for stimulation, and that habit may turn into constant licking which may lead to hot spots.

There are all sorts of ways you can add mental stimulation to your fur baby's daily life, including rope toys, feeder puzzles, and play. Try out different options and see what works best for your dog.

Do you have any questions about hot spots? If you do, be sure to let me know! I'd be more than happy to answer any questions as best I can. Just leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible.

It's been well studied and has been found to have numerous health benefits for people, and pet parents the world over have taken to using it on their dogs as well.

But since there are limited studies on the consumption of coconut oil in dogs, several questions remain.

For starters, is it safe to give your dog coconut oil? also, is it safe to assume dogs will have the same benefits as seen in human trials? We’ll answer these questions and more, so let’s get started.

What Makes Coconut Oil Special?

The coconut has been used in Ayurvedic medicine for around 4,000 years, so while it’s just gaining public recognition, it’s been in use for centuries.

One of the key ingredients in coconut oil that is linked to the benefits seen in human trials is the medium chain triglycerides (MCT) which are made up of medium chain fatty acids (MCFA).

MCTs are a type of saturated fat, which we’ve always been told is bad for heart health, but MCTs seem to be special. Unlike other fats that just get stored in the human body, MCTs are filtered through the liver and then used for energy, making them less likely to be stored.

Based on how the human body processes MCT oil (which is typically derived from coconuts) many human studies and a few pet studies have shown there are multiple benefits, and we’ll dive into those next.

Now, before you rush to the grocery store or online to buy the first coconut oil you find, here’s a word of caution, most studies of its benefits are based on coconut oil made of 100% medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs) which is NOT the same as regular commercially available coconut oil.

“Many of the health claims for coconut oil are based on studies that used a special formulation of coconut oil made of 100% medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs). This is not the coconut oil available on supermarket shelves.” - Harvard Medical School

Now, this is not to say that the coconut oil you buy at the grocery store is bad for you or doesn’t come with health benefits, not at all.

The point here is to clarify that the health benefits reported from specially constructed MCT coconut oil cannot be applied to regular coconut oil. While MCT oils and coconut oil may be related the results of the studies only apply to MCT oils.

Potential Benefits of Coconut Oil for Dogs

Some touted health benefits of coconut oil range from reducing belly fat, to strengthening the immune system, to preventing heart disease, to helping with neurological disorders.

However, since most studies on coconut oil have been conducted on people, it’s hard to say if your pup will experience the same benefits, but we’ll outline the potential benefits in humans and how coconut oil is being used with dogs.

Using Coconut Oil for Skin Problems

The first, and one of the most common, uses for coconut oil in people and in dogs is for skin problems. In particular, people use coconut oil to treat a variety of skin conditions like eczema, xerosis, psoriasis, and a range of different skin infections and rashes.

There's some science to back this up. Coconut oil has antibacterial properties, which means it can help fight off the bacteria that cause certain skin problems.

“It (coconut oil) also kills the causes of fungal infections such as candida, ringworm, athlete’s foot, thrush, jock itch, and diaper rash. It kills viruses having a lipid coating, such as herpes, HIV, hepatitis C, influenza, and mononucleosis.” - A. G. Gopala Krishna - The American Oil Chemists' Society

It also has anti-inflammatory properties, so it can potentially reduce irritation and redness, as well as the inflammation that surrounds injuries. It's hydrating, as well.

Most of these effects are observed in people, not dogs, but that's going to be a common refrain.

Most people frown upon animal testing, and pet supplements don't get a lot of funding or attention from the medical community at large.

What few studies there are for dogs tend to be limited in scope, performed by a single vet or school, and may have issues that make them less viable.

Using Coconut Oil to Improve Your Dog's Coat

Another common use of coconut oil is for hair and fur. In people, some folks like to use a little bit of coconut oil as a hair conditioner or even as a replacement for some harsher shampoos.

In dogs, though, brushing a little bit of coconut oil into their fur coat may be able to improve the quality of that coat.

Specifically, coconut oil may keep your fur baby's coat shinier and healthier, as well as make it more resilient to damage from the sun, heat, humidity, washing, and other sources of environmental damage.

The reason here is because of some compounds in the coconut oil. A chemical called lauric acid, which is a fatty acid and the primary fatty acid in coconut oil, is uniquely chemically capable of penetrating the shaft of hair (which usually repels various chemicals.)

Many shampoos and conditioners apply a layer of coating to the outside of hair, but lauric acid can get into the hair to repair it from the inside.

“Coconut oil has a high affinity for hair proteins and, because of lauric acid’s low molecular weight and straight linear chain, is able to penetrate inside the hair shaft” The American Oil Chemistry’s Society

And since we’re talking about hair, just a reminder, you should never use human shampoo on dogs.

Using Coconut Oil to Repel Pests

Dogs are prone to all kinds of critters trying to make a home in their fur, on their skin, in their ears, and elsewhere.

You know them; broadly called "ectoparasites," they include critters and nasties like ticks, fleas, and mites.

So, what does coconut oil have to do with these?

A study done by the USDA Agriculture and Research Service showed compounds derived from coconut oil can repel fleas and ticks and it even outperformed Deet.

“…scientists identified specific coconut oil fatty acids that have strong repellency and long-lasting effectiveness against multiple insects—mosquitoes, ticks, biting flies and bed bugs”…Against bed bugs and ticks, DEET lost its effectiveness after about three days, while the coconut oil compound lasted for about two weeks.” – USDA, ARS

What’s important to note from this study, is that the repellant is derived from coconut oil, so slathering your dog with coconut oil before going on a hike isn’t going to add protection.

“Coconut oil itself is not a repellent” - Junwei (Jerry) Zhu, Entomologist, USDA, ARS

On top of the antibacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits of coconut oil, it can also help wound healing.

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If your fur baby has fleas, has been bitten by ticks, or has mites (including mange mites), coconut oil can help your fur baby heal after the pests are gone.

Using Coconut Oil for Epilepsy

When given orally, coconut oil has been shown to be well tolerated and palatable, but it’s more than just a treat. And this is one area where a few small studies have been completed to show benefits for dogs.

A study published in 2020 showed dogs with idiopathic epilepsy had a significant decrease in seizure frequency when fed MCT as a dietary supplement.

It’s important to note a coconut oil supplement may not help all dogs with idiopathic epilepsy, but it’s worth asking your veterinarian if you should try it with your pup.

Other Potential Benefits of Coconut Oil

There are many other claimed benefits of coconut oil, that may or may not hold true in people or in pups.

Important to consider here is that like with many other foods, over time, coconut oil is one of those foods that has gone from superfood to toxic to superfood again. I know, it can be confusing.

Even the scientific community seems to be split. Some believe that coconut oil benefits may be exaggerated. Some research suggests that many of the touted benefits are not exclusive to coconut oil and that other alternative fats will get the same benefits while being safer and healthier.

As noted earlier, many studies on coconut oil are done in vitro, i.e. in a Petri dish with compounds isolated from coconut oil, which isn’t the same thing as consuming virgin coconut oil orally or transdermally.

With that in mind, some other potential benefits of coconut oil include:

• Moisturize dry, cracked skin.
• Aid in digestion.
• Reduced inflammation.
• Reduced bad breath.
• Reduced weight. One study in 2015, showed a diet with coconut oil and other compounds resulted in weight loss and improved body condition in some of the participating dogs.
• Increased energy.
• Improved function of an aging brain.

Are There Risks to Using Coconut Oil on Dogs?

Balancing out the potential benefits of coconut oil, we also have to look at the potential drawbacks.

The first drawback to using coconut oil with your dog is that it's high in calories and high in cholesterol.

The high calorie content means that if you're giving your dog some of the oil to eat every day, you need to adjust their diet to account for the additional intake of calories.

Otherwise, you risk your dog becoming overweight, and while many of us may love an adorable chonker, it's not healthy. Plus, it doesn’t make sense to try to address one issue while creating another.

The cholesterol in coconut oil isn't uniformly good cholesterol, either. A study posted on science direct has shown even short term use of coconut oil can lead to an increase in bad cholesterol and cause plaques to form in the arteries, potentially giving your dog similar kinds of health issues we people get when we have bad, fatty diets. This condition is known as hyperlipidemia.

"Hyperlipidemia refers to elevated levels of lipids (fats) in the bloodstream. The term is typically used to refer to elevated levels of triglycerides or cholesterol." | VCA Animal Hospitals

The second major drawback is that, as a fatty oil, your dog will probably need to adapt to eating it.

Too much of it at once can increase the incidence of, shall we say, digestive distress. Oil is a laxative, after all, and you don't necessarily want to have your dog leaking around the house.

A third drawback is that it may affect your dog’s sense of smell. A study published in 2003 showed that saturated fat may reduce the ability for a dog to detect and identify scents. Since dogs rely heavily on their noses to communicate and read the world around them, this can be a pretty significant impact on their life.

Of course, this is more of a concern in working dogs than it is in leisure dogs and other pets. A dog raised as a tracker of any kind has greater need of a working nose than a purse puppy, right?

And, of course, there's always the risk of an allergic reaction or sensitivity. Any time you give or use anything new with your dog, be it a new food, a new shampoo, or a new kind of health supplement, you want to test a small amount of it first.

This goes for both things they eat and things you rub into their coats; any allergic reaction is cause to immediately discontinue using it and potentially even take them to the vet to make sure they aren't in any danger.

How to Use Coconut Oil for Your Dog

There are, generally, two different ways you can use coconut oil to benefit your dog.

The first is as a dietary supplement. When going with this method, you want to make sure you're using a virgin, ideally USDA certified organic coconut oil for the best, healthiest effects.

Coconut oil comes in two different presentations, one that is solid at room temperature and one that is liquid. Most pet parents opt for the solid version as it’s generally easier to give to your pup.

All you do is give your fur baby a little bit of coconut oil to eat each day. You can give it once a day or twice a day, but generally no more than twice. If your fur baby is already overweight, limit it to once a day. The same goes for small breeds and smaller dogs.

How much should you give your fur baby? Not much, at least to start. Begin with small amounts, usually around a quarter teaspoon for small dogs or up to a max of one tablespoon for larger and giant breeds.

Give this amount once and observe them to make sure they don't have an adverse reaction to it. If they're fine, give them the same amount each day for a couple of weeks.

“A good starting dose is ¼ teaspoon daily for small dogs up 1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon daily for big dogs.” – petmd.com

If your pup isn’t receptive to licking the coconut oil off the spook, measure out the oil and mix it with their food instead. You can use it to dampen your fur baby's dry food, or mix a bit in with some kind of wet food for them.

Again, make sure to keep in mind that the oil has calories, so reduce their normal food by an equivalent amount so you don't contribute to canine obesity.

The second way to administer coconut oil to your dog is by applying it topically.

Just take a small amount of the oil, dab it around your fur baby's coat, and brush it through. Direct application of coconut oil, particularly after a bath, can be a good way to rehydrate, refresh, and restore their fur coat.

You want to avoid putting too much into their coat, though. You don't want dog-shaped grease stains on your furniture!

The Bottom Line

There's a lot of debate over coconut oil for dogs. Mostly, it comes down to a debate over whether or not you’ll actually get the benefits of the claims you hear about.

Like with everything you try with your pup, always get the opinion of your vet. The side effects are often minimal, but then, so are the benefits, depending on how you measure them. Some people see a lot of impact, while others see almost nothing at all.

Really, what it comes down to is deciding whether or not you want to give it a try with your fur baby. If you do, do a short test and make sure the oil won't react with their skin or tummy, and from there, you can start your ramp-up.

Do you supplement your pup with coconut oil? Orally or topically? Have you noticed any benefits since using it? Leave a note below in the comments to share your experience.

Whether it means hiding or wrapping up cords, protecting toys and paperwork, or putting the houseplants out of reach, it often feels like it just doesn't matter – they're going to find something to chew on.

If you’re anything like my hubby, you like to have a plant in every corner of the house. The problems begin when your fur baby finds a delicious-looking houseplant to nibble. While that decorative flower or pot of fern might be beautiful as décor, is it safe if your cat goes in for a taste?

Unfortunately, you can't trust your fur baby to know for sure!

They don't have an inherent sense of what is and isn't toxic to them, and sadly, all it takes is one mistake, and they might never have the chance to learn.

If you are both a plant and a cat lover, and you currently have some of the plants in the list below you may be feeling like you are between a rock and a hard place. The truth is it doesn’t have to be like that.

Keep on reading all the way to the bottom and discover how you can still have your cake and eat it too. Or should I say, have your toxic plant and enjoy it too!

So, what house plants are toxic to cats? Read on to find out.

What is a "Toxic" House Plant & What Does it Mean for Your Cat?

A toxic house plant, or in general, a toxic plant contains chemical substances in any or all its parts that, if ingested and in rare cases exposed to, can cause harmful systemic effects in animals.

From mild irritation to organ failure. The smaller the animal (such as a cat), the more concentrated the chemicals will be and so, the higher the potential for harm.

You may have also heard the term poisonous plant. While these two terms are regularly used interchangeably, they do not mean the same thing. The difference is simple: Poisonous means a higher level of toxicity.

All poisonous plants are toxic but not all toxic plants are poisonous. Poisonous plants contain chemicals that are specifically harmful when ingested. These chemicals can be toxic to the body and cause harm or even death if your pet eats them.

Unfortunately for individuals that love both cats and plants, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission does not have a regulatory framework in place that require proper labeling on toxic houseplants, so it is critically important for all pet parents to be aware of the dangers toxic plants pose.

As we like to emphasize at toe beans, well-informed pet parents will make better decisions on behalf of their fur children. In general, being knowledgeable and cautious is the best way to protect your feline friends from the dangers of toxic plants.

Without further ado Let’s talk about toxic plants, shall we?

Lilies

Risk: High

Every year around the springtime, grocery stores and nurseries start selling beautiful lilies in pots, from easter lilies to daylilies to more exotic varieties.

Unfortunately, the entire Lilium species contain calcium oxalates, and it doesn't take much of these oxalates to do permanent damage to your fur baby's kidneys.

“Lilies in the “true lily” and “daylily” families are very dangerous for cats. The entire lily plant is toxic: the stem, leaves, flowers, pollen, and even the water in a vase. Eating just a small amount of a leaf or flower petal, licking a few pollen grains off its fur while grooming, or drinking the water from the vase can cause your cat to develop fatal kidney failure in less than 3 days…” - US Food and Drug Administration

As gorgeous as they are, lilies aren't worth the risk when a few stray nibbles can leave your cat in kidney failure, or worse.

Check out this great infographic from the ASPCA to help you identify dangerous lilies.

How is Lily Toxicity Treated in Cats?

“The cat may be given activated charcoal to bind any toxin remaining in the stomach. Intravenous (IV) fluids may be initiated to support kidney function and to protect the kidneys from the circulating toxins. Urine output will be monitored. In severe cases, dialysis may be necessary to keep a patient alive.” - UC Davis Veterinary Medicine

Lily of the Valley

Risk: High

While the lily of the valley isn't a true lily – it's a different species – it can also be dangerous to cats.

The active toxic compound here is cardenolides, which are dangerous for your fur baby's little heart. Every part of the plant is toxic, not just the flowers, and ingestion can lead to vomiting, a weak pulse, irregular heartbeats, and cardiac arrest.

“While these lilies are not renally toxic, severe clinical signs may still be seen... There may be vomiting, arrhythmias, decreased CO, weak pulse, hyperkalemia and possibly death… If signs are severe, Digibind (Digoxin Immune Fab) can be considered for treatment.” - ASPCA

Moss Rose

Risk: High

Also known by names like rock moss and purslane, this flowering plant is common in nurseries. It's very pretty, both in bloom and not, but it's also one of the deadliest plants on this list.

Even a relatively small amount of it contains soluble calcium oxalates, which are even more dangerous than insoluble oxalates.

The symptoms are the same, though, with vomiting, tremors, and kidney damage. If you think your cat has eaten any of this plant, call your emergency vet immediately.

“Coma and death may result within 12 hours. Animals that survive the acute effects of oxalate poisoning frequently develop kidney failure.”- Colorado State University

Elephant's Ear

Risk: High

Elephant's Ear is a plant named after the huge, shade-providing leaves that grow out of the stalks of the plant.

It thrives in the ground or in pots and is great for shading a corner of a bright sunroom or the edges of an outdoor patio.

Unfortunately, just like lilies, this plant contains insoluble calcium oxalates. Kidney damage is all but guaranteed if your cat nibbles on these leaves, and they'll be hard-pressed to resist the huge wavy stalks. Better to find some other way to get some shade.

“VERY rarely, swelling of the upper airway occurs making it difficult to breathe. Veterinary care is recommended for pets with persistent gastrointestinal clinical signs. Veterinary care is advised ASAP for any pet showing respiratory difficulty.” - Pet Poison Help Line

Sago Palm

Risk: High

Sago palms are a decorative plant that many homeowners keep in pots to lend a bit of a tropical vibe to their décor.

While it's often paired with sunlight, bright colors, and a tropical drink on a warm afternoon, your cat won't get the same enjoyment out of it if s/he nibbles the fronds.

Even a small amount of the leaves will have a chemical called Cycasin in it, which can damage the liver and gastrointestinal system of an animal.

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As noted above, the smaller the critter, the more dangerous it is in small doses, and cats are our adorable tiny fur babies, putting them at very high risk of extreme consequences.

“In addition to the signs above, pets with liver damage may have dark urine, yellow coloration of the eyes or skin (icterus), an enlarged abdomen, increased drinking and urination or discolored feces.” - Renee Schmid, DVM, DABVT, DABT; Ahna Brutlag, DVM, MS, DABT, DABVT and, Lynn Buzhardt, DVM | VCA Animal Hospitals

Pothos

Risk: High

Also known as "devil's ivy," the Pothos is an ivy-like creeper that makes for a great decorative plant to string around windows, doorways, and plant stands.

Care to guess what chemical is contained in the leaves and stems? That's right: calcium oxalates.

Once again, this plant, if your cat eats it, is going to cause kidney damage and a variety of other symptoms, all of which can be very dangerous if immediate treatment isn't available.

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If you are ivy-like creeper lover, you may be better off trying a non-toxic ivy like the Chinese money plant instead.

Dieffenbachia

Risk: High

Better known as the Dumb Cane plant, this large, shade-giving plant is a common decorative shrub in households around the world. Like other plants on the high-risk list, though, it contains calcium oxalates.

On top of that, though, this plant also contains proteolytic enzymes that can do even more damage and cause intense burning sensations in the mouth and throat.

If you have one of these plants and you suspect your cat has chewed on it, call your emergency vet ASAP.

“Fortunately, Dieffenbachia is not severely toxic, and pets usually get better with no significant consequences. However, a trip to the vet is advised to provide your pet with pain medication until the oral ulceration resolves. Your vet may also prescribe gastro protectant medication to help protect the lining of the esophagus and stomach.” - First Vet

Monstera

Risk: High

Also known as mostera deliciosa... I wonder if cats find it delicious? Gosh, I can only hope they don’t!

Monstera is a large shade-giving plant with leaves featuring dramatic cut-outs, and they've been a trendy plant in magazines and pop culture for years.

Also known as the cutleaf philodendron, these plants are very pretty as décor, but they can also be dangerous to your cats, specifically because of – you guessed it – insoluble calcium oxalates.

If someone could find a way to get rid of those oxalates, that'd be great, and we could enjoy a lot more houseplants without risk to our fur babies.

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Kalanchoe

Risk: High

Kalanchoes are succulents commonly seen for sale in spring, and they're popular because they sprout hundreds of tiny flowers at the end of their stalks in a variety of different colors.

They're also very easy to propagate from anything as small as a single leaf, so it's common to grow more from a single base plant.

Unfortunately, these flowering succulents are related to jade plants and contain a compound called bufadienolides.

This chemical can cause irregular heart rhythms and can, in some cases, lead to cardiac arrest and even death.

Garlic

Risk: Moderate

Garlic is delicious; we can't deny that. It's pungent and adds a wonderful flavor to nearly any meal we cook.

The trouble is, the chemical that gives it that pungent odor is a disulfide, and disulfides are pretty unhealthy for your cat. In small doses, garlic won't do a lot, but it can damage their red blood cells, and that damage can build up over time.

You might be wondering why we're talking about garlic in a houseplant post, but the fact is some people grow this plant indoors. Not with the purpose of getting full bulbs of garlic, but to use their green stalks in recipes.

Be careful feeding your cat table food, too – anything prepared with garlic or garlic powder can be harmful.

Now, you don't have to eliminate garlic from your diet, but you should keep any loose garlic you have around the house well-contained and out of the area your fur baby can find it.

Onions

Risk: Moderate

Onions and garlic are both part of the same plant family called alliums. Other plants, including leeks, chives, shallots, and scallions, are all part of the same family.

One thing they all have in common is that pungent odor (and delicious culinary uses), and that all comes from those same disulfides.

Just like garlic, onions should be kept contained and out of the way of your fur baby; they can cause damage if your cat eats too much of them at once or a little bit consistently over time.

So if you’re thinking about growing some fresh scallions in your kitchen window, remember, it’s best not to.

Jade Plants

Risk: Moderate

Jade plants, also known as money plants or rubber plants, are a kind of succulent that can grow in large, bushy shrubs in a pot.

While the superstitious believe they can provide luck or monetary opportunities, the truth is, if you have a cat, they'll probably do the opposite.

Vets aren't quite sure what the toxic component in these plants is yet, but eating more than a little bit of the plant can cause neurological symptoms and damage.

Treatment is simple, at least, but even still, it's unpleasant to see your kitty acting inebriated and needing medical intervention.

Snake Plant

Risk: Moderate

Scientifically known as Sansevieria trifasciata, the snake plant is a popular houseplant because of its unique vertical look and the fact that it's hardy and difficult to kill.

It also contains saponins, a chemical that can cause nausea, vomiting, gastrointestinal distress, and other symptoms related to toxicity.

It's not as immediately dangerous as oxalates, but it's fairly dangerous, especially in larger doses, so the more your cat chews on the plant, the worse off they'll be.

Aloe Vera

Risk: Low

Aloe Vera is a common plant in holistic medicine, used for everything from sunburns to nutritional beverages. Even if you don't have a taste for it, the large and plump fronds can make for a bold decorative houseplant.

One thing many people don't know about aloe, though, is that the gel is edible, but the latex (that yellowish material that surrounds it) is toxic, even to humans.

Luckily, the reaction is relatively mild, and in both people and cats, the worst it'll likely do is cause a stomachache and some gastrointestinal distress. Even still, it's better to replace it with a different, non-toxic succulent, like the zebra plant.

Eucalyptus

Risk: Low

The eucalyptus plant is a decorative shrub known for how koalas love to munch it and how soothing chemicals in the leaves help keep us calm and focused through aromatherapy.

Sadly, it doesn't quite work that way for cats. If your cat chews on some eucalyptus, they're likely to develop gastrointestinal discomfort.

They may drool, vomit, have a decreased appetite because of the stomachache, and they might have diarrhea as well.

While it's not generally life-threatening (except in cases of extreme dehydration), it's still unpleasant for your fur baby.

Hydrangea

Risk: Low

Hydrangeas are a bold and beautiful flowering plant, and it's no wonder that many people keep them in pots around the house for the color they bring.

As far as cats are concerned, the plants contain a chemical called cyanogenic glycoside, a relative of cyanide.

It's toxic to cats, but fortunately, only in larger doses. Your cat would need to munch on a lot of your hydrangeas before they experienced the symptoms of poisoning; the occasional nibble is mostly safe.

You can always consider something like a Zinnia instead if you want to be extra safe.

Wisteria

Risk: Low

Wisterias are gorgeous flowers, so they're a common source of decorative color in neighborhoods and yards around the world. They also contain lectin and a chemical named after them, wisterin glycoside.

Both chemicals are lightly toxic to cats and can cause gastrointestinal upset and other common symptoms of poisoning.

They aren't likely to be deadly, but they'll be unpleasant, so it's best to keep your cat away from them if you can and don't bring the flowers inside where your indoor-only kitty can get to them.

Parsley

Risk: Low

Having fresh herbs on hand can make any dish that much more delicious, so it’s not surprising that many people grow their own at home.

Mini kitchen herb gardens are convenient for us, and also our kitties who like to counter surf.

Thankfully, it's not dangerous unless your cat acts like a lawnmower and eats the whole thing. It causes photosensitivity, making your fur baby more prone to sunburns.

Other Toxic Plants

This is far from a complete list. Unfortunately, the natural world is full of all sorts of dangerous things, even if they're very pretty or even non-toxic to most other animals around.

Luckily, the ASPCA keeps an interactive list of plants that are toxic to cats, dogs, or horses.

That list has over 400 entries on it, though plenty of them aren't things you're likely to be growing indoors or even locally (since some of them have very limited ranges where they'll grow.)

You can also browse the related list for plants that are safe for cats if you want to look for gorgeous houseplants to keep around without risking your fur baby's health.

I'm definitely not suggesting that it's better to remove all the plants from your home, though you certainly could if you wanted to eliminate the problem entirely.

Otherwise, buy some catnip, some cat grass, and maybe a few decoy plants for your fur baby to chew on to get it out of their system safely.

How to Keep Your Cats from Eating your Plants

The short answer is simply to always keep them away from each other.

A quick google search will return many recommendations and tips about how to keep your cat from eating your plants. Unfortunately, your options are limited when it comes down to toxic plants.

For toxic plants, the # 1 concern is safety first. And for us, the only truly safe recommendation is to keep your plants out of reach, better yet out of the house completely.

Refrain from experimenting with such approaches like spraying plants with cat-repelling substances (such as diluted lemon juice), or trying to train your cat, or giving your cat their own plants (such as cat grass) to chew on instead.

While all the approaches above may well be worth exploring with non-toxic plants, you don’t want to try anything but a safe approach when it comes down to toxic and poisonous plants. Take my word for it.

How to Place Your Plants Out of Your Cats Reach

If you already have some toxic plants in your home and you can’t find it in your heart to part with them, hanging them is our #1 strategy as it is the safest and most effective one. You can hang your plants on the wall or from the ceiling, that’s it. There are literally dozens of options to do this.

Additionally, knowing your cat and how far they can reach will give you a sense of what out-of-reach means for your kitty. So, the sky is the limit in terms of maintaining a nice balance between your cat’s inaccessibility and your own enjoyment.

For the not-so-handy people or simply those who prefer not to drill holes, I cherry picked this great video on how to hang plants.

How to Hang Plants Around your House Without Drilling a Single Hole | Tutorial | by Sir Plants a Lot

If on the contrary, you are somewhat handy, here's the right video for you.

How to Hang Plants Around your House With Hardware | Tutorial | by Harli G

Pet Poison Control

As I like to repeatedly say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure (Benjamin Franklin). Prevention is always the best course of action but unfortunately, life happens and sometimes we can’t keep our fur babies 100% out of trouble. They always manage to get in trouble at some point during their precious lives.

If your cat ever gets to eat one of your toxic plants, the first thing to do is to keep calm and contact an expert. Do not try to induce vomiting or take any other action, just contact an expert.

My recommendation would be to save the following contacts on your phone you can have them readily available.

Here are three animal poison control organizations you can reach out to:

• The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) is available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. If you think your pet may have ingested a potentially poisonous substance, call (888) 426-4435.
• Pet Poison Helpline (PPH) – is available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and 365 days of the year. An incident fee may apply.
• Pets & Pesticides – for pesticide-related inquiries you can contact the National Pesticide Information Center at Oregon State University at (800) 858-7378 or email them at npic@ace.orst.edu.

If you have any questions, be sure to let me know! I'm always more than happy to answer any and all questions related to pet care as best I can! Just leave me a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

It's even worse when your fur baby is the one with the grumbly gut because it's even more likely to lead to something unpleasant making its way out, be it from the front end or the rear.

Even if you avoid a mess in the house, having to head outside every half hour for an emergency is stressful and worrisome!

Luckily, there are a bunch of ways you can soothe your pupper's upset stomach.

I've put together a dozen tips you can try, that cover everything from dietary tweaks to natural options and simple DIY care practices, we'll cover a range of approaches to address your dog's upset stomach.

Let’s get started!

What Causes an Upset Stomach in Dogs?

An upset stomach can be caused literally by anything. The whole gamut ranges from stress or anxiety to drinking yummy toilet water, to a mild virus, to eating something they shouldn't have, to eating something toxic to something more serious.

“The most common gastrointestinal issues causing owners to seek veterinary care for their dogs are dietary indiscretion (eating of food that upsets their GI tract), ingestion of a foreign object, intestinal parasites, pancreatitis, and chronic inflammatory intestinal disease (caused by food allergies/intolerance or immune-mediated inflammation).” - Dr. Emily Gould | Texas A&M College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences

Many of the causes of upset stomach are simple enough to deal with at home and will go away within 48 hours, but a few are more dangerous and might require a trip to the emergency vet.

When to Take Your Dog to the Vet

In general, if an upset stomach doesn’t resolve in 48-72 hours you should take your dog to the vet.

In puppies that haven't had their vaccinations, the biggest risk is parvovirus. Parvo can be deadly, which is why we vaccinate against it, but young puppies can catch it before they get those vaccinations.

Keep an eye out for bloody diarrhea, lethargy, vomiting, dehydration, and your puppy collapsing (and not in the cute clumsy puppy way). These are all signs of parvo and require vet care to make sure your fur baby gets enough fluids and nutrients to fight off the virus.

Check out this 3-minute education video about when to worry and when to go to the vet when you have a puppy with diarrhea by Krista Magnifico, DVM at Jarrettsville Veterinary Center.

For older dogs that are unlikely to have parvo, an upset stomach is a lot more likely to be caused by eating something that upsets their tummy, but in some cases can be more dangerous.

If your fur baby ate a whole jar of peanut butter full of xylitol, a big bar of chocolate you thought they couldn't reach, or some random chemical under the sink, you'll need to take them to the emergency vet to make sure they aren't in danger.

Symptoms you should watch out for include:

• Upset stomach signs that last for more than two days.
• Unwillingness to eat or drink (especially drink).
• Excessive drooling.
• Blood in the vomit or stool.
• Vomiting or diarrhea more than two or three times, particularly with no signs of abating.
• A toy or other non-food object in the vomit or diarrhea. Even if they purge it, it could have done damage internally that needs vet care.
• Restlessness that increases over time rather than decreasing.
• Weakness or collapsing unexpectedly.
• A distended stomach.

Generally, you'll be able to tell that there's something wrong beyond just eating an irritating plant or too much of something oily.

If you see any signs above, call your vet and see what they think, and be prepared to bring your fur baby in for an emergency appointment.

“If a pet stops eating, is lethargic, the diarrhea is black or tarry in quality, there is associated vomiting, or the diarrhea doesn’t resolve in 48-72 hours then veterinary care should be sought.” - Dr. Meredith Miller | Cornell Richard P. Riney Canine Health Center

Now if you have reasons to suspect your dog has consumed something that could be stuck in their gastrointestinal tract or a toxin, such as a poisonous plant during a walk, then it's very important that you seek medical care immediately.

Case in Point: My new nephew puppy just finished an in-depth two-week training session. One of his main goals was to learn to not eat any random thing he passes on his walks. Well he no sooner gets home after graduation and manages to eat a mushroom before my brother quickly grabbed it out of his mouth. Puppies, am I right?!

Knowing there are many harmful mushrooms he headed straight for the vet, where they induced vomiting. Long story short, the mushroom was non-toxic, but if you’re not sure you should always err on the side of caution.

If your vet recommends a watch a wait approach because the symptoms are mild, but they're clearly unpleasant, you can try some home remedies to try to alleviate that upset stomach and give your fur baby some relief while they work through it.

Here are a dozen different remedies you can try out.

1: Water

This might seem like a no-brainer as you should always have fresh water available for your pup, but I’ll say it anyway. The number one thing your dog needs when their stomach is upset, especially if they're vomiting, or have diarrhea is water.

Dehydration is very dangerous for dogs, and it can happen a lot faster than you might think. Extended dehydration can lead to organ damage and, in extreme cases, even death.

Offering your fur baby some water is a good first step, but they may not be interested in it or won't be able to keep it down if they lap up too much at once. A decent solution is to give them ice chips a little at a time.

The cold helps soothe the stomach, and the ice being solid gives them a different mechanism to consume it rather than lapping it up, which can help them keep it down.

2: Pedialyte

When dehydration is a primary concern, it's not just about the water itself. Dehydration throws off the body's balance of electrolytes and nutrients, which means your fur baby will need something to restore them.

If your first thought is "Gatorade," you're on the right track, but not quite where you need to be. Instead, head to the children's food aisle at your nearest store and grab a bottle of unflavored Pedialyte.

Pedialyte was originally designed for children as something inoffensive and tasty enough to give to a child who is feeling ill and doesn't want to drink plain water or some medicated supplement.

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It's packed with electrolytes and nutrients to help hydrate and restore the body better than water alone can. Well, people quickly discovered that it works great for a lot more than just sick kids, so they have a dozen different sub-products these days, like a sport version, an organic version, and advanced medicated versions.

You'll want to grab a standard Pedialyte (double-check to make sure the ingredients list is safe, but it should be) and give it to your fur baby in small sips and in small quantities.

While there are no scientific studies today advocating for its use in dogs, if they can keep it down, it's a good way to encourage hydration.

One word of caution here is that Pedialyte contains sodium and sugar which, depending on your dog’s overall health condition may be harmful. The temporary use of Pedialyte in a relatively healthy and young dog will be less risky than in an older and not so healthy one. So, keep this in mind.

“Patients with vomiting, moderate to severe dehydration, diabetes, heart disease, kidney disease or other diseases that make your pet sensitive to sodium or sugar intake should definitely avoid Pedialyte.” – Dr. Monica Tarantino DVM

3: Fasting

If your fur baby is vomiting, expelling diarrhea, or both, it can feel bad to take food away from them. After all, they're already losing a lot of nutrition, so they're probably hungry and miserable.

Unfortunately, giving them food can irritate an already inflamed gastrointestinal tract, which can exacerbate the issue.

It's even worse if they scarf down some dry food too quickly and immediately toss it back up, irritating their throat even more in the process.

A brief fast can help their bodies purge whatever is causing them trouble and allow the GI tract to settle and heal.

For younger or smaller dogs (not puppies), you generally don’t want to go more than 12 hours without food; for older or larger dogs, you can go as much as 24 hours.

“Sometimes, adding to the stomach will only make things worse, so fasting is another possible remedy for a dog’s upset stomach. Before fasting, though, you need to make sure that it’s safe for your dog. Every breed is different, and smaller dogs may not tolerate fasting as well as others.” - Care First Animal Hospital

An important feature of a food fast is to ensure your pup is still drinking water. Sips of Pedialyte or a bit of natural organic (xylitol-free) maple syrup can help keep their blood sugar up without being as irritating as food.

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4: Bone Broth

Bone broth is a very nutritious and nurturing liquid, sort of like chicken soup is for us people when we're sick.

You can find it at the grocery store alongside the other kinds of broth, or you can make some yourself, though making it yourself will take a whole day, so it's not a fast emergency solution.

A word of caution: Garlic and onions are toxic to dogs, and they are found in many store-bought broths. Be sure to check the ingredients to ensure they aren’t included.

Although some online retailers may already sell bone broth for dogs, it may take a day or two to arrive once you order. So, you may end up having to stop by your grocery store to look for alternatives.

If you don’t find a ready-made option at the grocery store that is ingredient-safe to give your dog you may have to make it yourself.

How to Make Bone Broth For your Dog

While it may take time, it’s not difficult to make. Simply get some bone-in meat (usually chicken works best, but beef also works) and put it in a deep pot.

Add enough water to cover it and a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar to help break down the collagen in the bones. Bring to a boil, then simmer for at least 8-12 hours, occasionally skimming off the fat. The resulting broth will be simple and basic and can be frozen to last for half a year.

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5: Bland Food

The "Bland Food" diet is a specific food mixture you can give your fur baby that is nutritious enough to keep them going but so bland and inoffensive that it's pretty much guaranteed to stay down.

If your fur baby manages to vomit this up, it's a sure sign you should take them to the vet ASAP.

What is the Bland Food diet?

It generally means two ingredients: white rice and white meat chicken. Cook the chicken until it's done, and boil the white rice until it's soft and fluffy.

You want about one part meat to two or three parts rice. Chop up the chicken, mix it all together, and give your fur baby a tablespoon or two of it at a time. If they can keep that down, they're probably on the mend.

Now, if you are lucky enough to have a dog that is allergic to chicken (which is a real thing!) you can also make it with ground turkey, ground beef, egg and even low-fat cottage cheese.

In terms of the carbohydrate , it doesn’t have to be rice. You can also use plain pasta or white potato.

Just make sure to avoid adding salt, any oils, fats, or spices to either the rice or the chicken when you cook them. Those can irritate an upset stomach and go against the point of the diet being bland.

Make sure not to feed your dog this diet for more than 3-4 days. When your pet begins to feel better you, feel free to start mixing in some of their regular food with the bland diet for a couple of days before switching back to just their normal kibble.

If the issue has not gotten better or completely resolved after 3-4 days, you should see your vet.

6: Probiotics

Probiotics are foods that contain bacteria, but they're helpful bacteria rather than harmful.

These bacteria are already present in your fur baby's digestive system, but they can get overrun by bad bacteria when they're ill or even just get disrupted by antibiotics and other medications or changes in diet.

The easiest way to give your fur baby some probiotics is with plain, unflavored, unsweetened yogurt.

Alternatively, there are a handful of canine probiotic foods, like FortiFlora and Visbiome, which you can find in pet supply stores and online. Always consult with your vet before giving probiotics to your dog.

Regular use of probiotics can be a wonderful thing for your dog. Now, as we like to caution every pet parent out there: Not all dog probiotics are created equal. Refrain from going on @m@z0n or any other large online retailer and buying the first “best seller” or “vet recommended” probiotic for your dog.

We can’t warn pet parents enough about letting these labels influence their purchase decisions. If you are a regular reader of our blog, you know to be aware that the pet industry has been infested with unscrupulous sellers and bad actors that have mastered the art of deception when it comes to stripping you of your money at the expense of your dog’s happiness and wellbeing.

Before making any rushed decisions, you should educate yourself about probiotics for dogs. Also, do your research and due diligence about both the product and most importantly the seller.

“The most widely known probiotics are the live cultures found in yogurt, but they are also available as nutritional supplements. Labels should include an expiration date, the exact species, the number of microorganisms in the product and a guarantee for the number of live organisms. The manufacturer should be able to provide support for the efficacy of the product, preferably a study by an external, accredited researcher.” - Cornell Richard P. Riney Canine Health Center

FortiFlora also works for cats. I have personally used it for my IBD kitties during acute bouts of diarrhea. And while I’ve experienced mixed results it has made a difference.

How long does it take for probiotics to stop diarrhea in dogs?

The short answer is it depends. The long one is that some probiotics work faster than others. You can expect improvement from as soon as 2-3 days to weeks. But again, when used to stop your dog’s diarrhea, you should bring your dog to the vet if the issue is not resolved within 3 days max.

7: Other Plain Foods

There are a variety of different plain foods you can try giving to your fur baby to see if they stay down – these should all be limited in quantity as they aren’t a balanced meal. Pretty much anything bland and free of spices and fats can do well.

You can try canned pumpkin, oatmeal, sweet potatoes, or bananas as simple alternatives.

Pumpkin is a great option for a pup with diarrhea, just make sure it’s plain pumpkin and not the stuff you’d use to make a pie.

“Plain, canned pumpkin is the healthiest choice for your dog. Both fresh and canned pumpkin are good sources of nutrients and fiber, but canned pumpkin contains a higher concentration of fiber and nutrients compared to fresh pumpkin. However, canned pumpkin with added salt, spices, sugar, or other additives can irritate your dog’s stomach further, counteracting the beneficial effects of the pumpkin.” - American Kennel Club

How Fast Does Pumpkin Help with Diarrhea?

It depends. The cause of the diarrhea, its severity, and how much pumpkin you give your pup are some of the factors that will determine how fast your pup recovers from an upset stomach. On average you can expect to see signs of improvement from 4 - 6 hours to 24 - 48 hours.

8: Slippery Elm Bark

Slippery Elm, also known as Indian Elm, Red Elm, Moose Elm, Sweet Elm, Orme, or Ulmus Fulva, is a tree with bark that feels slippery on the inside due to a chemical it contains.

It's been a soothing remedy for sore throats for centuries because that same chemical causes increased mucous production, helping to coat the throat.

While no studies have been performed on dogs, but rather on humans, there is anecdotal evidence that supports that slippery elm powder can help soothe your dog’s upset stomach.

When you give some to your dog, it will have the same effect, stimulating the production of mucous that helps coat and line their GI tract and protect it from whatever is causing irritation.

As we always like to recommend, make sure to talk to your vet first before giving any kind of herbal supplement, though, and be on the lookout for unpleasant side effects.

9: Pepto-Bismol

Nausea, heartburn, indigestion, upset stomach, diarrhea! That's the jingle many of us remember from commercials a couple of decades ago (actually I just saw one recently), and that smooth, vaguely chalky, pink sludge has been a staple of medicine cabinets ever since. Well, it's an effective remedy for people, but did you know it can work for dogs as well?

Word of caution here: While Pepto isn't approved for use in dogs, many vets and pet owners know it can be effective when given properly – and by that I mean under a veterinarian's guidance.

You’ll find mixed opinions all over the internet regarding the safety of Pepto for your dog, so always work under the supervision of your vet.

Here is what the manufacturer of Pepto says on their website regarding whether it is ok to give your Pepto to your pet:

“Pepto Bismol is for humans. Consult with your veterinarian for treatment.” - Pepto Bismol

Too much or over a period that is too long can do more harm than good. Your vet will also know any preexisting conditions or medications they are taking that may not make Pepto a suitable option for your pup.

10: Keep Away from the Lawn

Dogs (and cats) have an inherent drive to eat grass.

Some pet parents tend to think that eating grass is a sign that their dog is feeling sick. But some studies have shown that none of these beliefs are true.

Regardless of the reason, one thing is almost guaranteed to be true, though, the lawn is very likely to be unsafe to eat.

Lawncare chemicals, runoff, and other nastiness can all be anywhere from irritating to toxic, and the last thing your dog needs is something to further irritate them.

Bottom line, always keep your pup from eating grass, especially if they have an upset stomach.

11: Low-Stress Environment

One occasional cause of vomiting and an upset stomach is stress and anxiety. If you've been through a lot and your fur baby is having a bad time, it might be worthwhile to bring them somewhere familiar or keep them at home for a while, so they can decompress and relax.

Yes, some dogs have anxiety, and if you notice a pattern of digestive issues when you go to crowded areas, or when you leave town, you should talk to your vet about ways to prevent or reduce the stress.

CBD for dogs has proven to be great for helping with situational anxiety. Of course, you shouldn't try it with the goal of stopping an upset stomach – as it may not work for that – but rather as a preventative approach or future anxiety related stomach episodes.

So, if you notice any correlation between diarrhea episodes and situational anxiety in your dog, CBD might help.

If you are anything like me, you’d try any natural and holistic available approaches to help your dog before resorting to traditional methods.

I’ve written extensively about CBD for dogs and cats if you want to dive into more detail.

12: Gradual Return to Normal Food

As your fur baby gets over whatever was irritating them, you can start to go back to giving them regular food, but you want to introduce it slowly.

You should never try to go from a liquid or bland diet to regular food overnight; instead, gradually reintroduce it by about 15-20% of their food each day.

Hopefully, these remedies will help your furry companion feel better! Remember if the home remedies don’t clear up the issue in 24 to 48 hours, it’s time to give your vet a call. Sometimes their intervention is what’s needed to get your pup back on the right track.

Do you have a personal favorite remedy you use with your pup? How quickly did it work? Be sure to let me know in the comments section down below! I'd love to hear what you think!

Did you find this blog post helpful? Sharing is caring. Simply click on any of the social media channels below it only takes one click to spread the love!

They take care of themselves, right? They don't need baths because they clean themselves, they don't need their nails trimmed because a scratching post lets them keep them short, and so on.

Unfortunately, this kind of attitude leads more to neglected kitties than it does to responsible pet parents. Cats may be relatively clean creatures, but they can still use a little helping hand, especially for areas of hygiene that they can't handle on their own.

One such form of cat upkeep is tooth brushing.

It's actually really important! While cats typically don’t get cavities (we’ll get into this in more detail down below), they are prone to develop periodontal disease and tooth resorption, which is quite painful.

Often, older cats – especially those whose mouths haven’t been tended to over the years – end up with toothless mouths – two of my kitties had multiple teeth removed later in life.

You can stall or avoid this issue entirely by keeping your cat's teeth brushed and as clean as possible. You likely have a lot of questions, so I'll do my best to answer them here.

As usual, I've added a great short education video on how to train your cat to let you brush their teeth in 4 weeks. This is a must watch!

How Do Cat Teeth Compare To Human Teeth?

For starters, an adult cat has 30 permanent teeth while humans have 32. Does this surprise you? We're not very different teeth-wise after all.

Second, just like us humans, cats are born with no teeth. As they grow, they get baby teeth (aka milk teeth) and eventually those fall out as their permanent teeth grow in.

Third, if you’ve ever looked in a cat’s mouth, you can see a lot of sharp little teeth. If you compare their molars to ours, theirs are much pointier. Those sharp teeth are ideal for ripping and tearing apart bits of meat, but they can still get little bits of tissue stuck between them and trapped along the gums, and they aren’t able to floss to get it out.

Fourth, and perhaps most importantly, just like us, a cat’s teeth are prone to plaque build-up, which hardens to tartar and when left unchecked can lead to gingivitis and periodontal disease. Imagine not brushing your teeth for 15, 20 years. Odds are you’d be in a lot of pain from cavities.

One important difference between human and cats’ teeth is that cats don’t typically get cavities because of the shape of their teeth. God bless them for that! However, the dentin can erode leading to tooth resorption.

“Unlike humans and dogs, cats do not have occlusal tables [horizontal surfaces] on their molars; thus, they do not develop true carious lesions.” – Dr. Alexander Reiter

Since cats are masters at hiding pain, it’s important to maintain their teeth before dental disease sets in. Check out this short read of 5 things you may not know about your cat’s dental health.

While biannual teeth cleanings are the norm for us humans, regular cleanings are also recommended for your kitty.

How Do Wild Cats Care For Their Teeth?

You might be thinking to yourself, why do I need to clean my cat’s teeth? After all if wild cats can survive without having their teeth brushed, shouldn’t my kitty be fine? Right?

Well not so fast. The difference is wild cats also chew on bones and other tough bits of what they eat. These bits of bone serve as an abrasive and a cleaner to remove bits of stuck meat. It's sort of like how we might use toothpicks.

Another important consideration is that wild cat’s teeth usually outlive them as cats in the wild do not live that long.

Unlike our fur babies, who thanks to advances in science and veterinary medicine can now live 20+ years. Thank you cat scientists!

Our angel Sosa, our longest living kitty, lived for 18 years and 11 happy months!

Why is this important?

Well, when you feed your own cat a meat diet, chances are it's all soft food. After all, you don't want to give them inedible bones that could splinter and hurt them or just be carried under the couch to be lost, right?

Well, that removes the "flossing" part of their diet and makes them more prone to gum disease.

Also, it’s important to realize that wild cats can and do get gum disease and toothaches; they just don't have any way to deal with it but to suffer until the tooth breaks out or an infection kills them. Never forget that nature is a harsh world!

Why Should You Brush Your Cat's Teeth?

Regularly brushing your cat’s teeth will have as many benefits as brushing your own teeth. Also, a consistent tooth brushing routine will positively impact your cat’s overall health and well-being.

We should never underestimate the impact that happy fur children have on our own happiness and well being as well.

The first benefit, of course, is oral health. You're removing bacteria and preventing gum disease, which minimizes the chance of toothaches, infections, abscesses, and emergency dental surgery. Anything you can do to prevent illness and pain is good, right?

Second, dental health has a direct impact on overall health. When cats have dental disease, plaque bacteria can enter the blood stream through the blood vessels in the infected tooth spreading to other organs such as the heart, kidneys, and liver.

“The bacteria that are found within the mouth of pets with dental disease are the same bacteria that are often implicated in heart disease. These bacteria are associated with both endocarditis (inflammation/infection of the interior of the heart) and valvular disease in dogs and cats.” - Catherine Barnette, DVM | VCA Animal Hospitals

Third, brushing your cat’s teeth as preventative medicine can spare your cat a traumatic life-threatening experience while saving you money. Dental extractions are expensive for pets.

If a tooth needs to be pulled, especially in an emergency situation and doubly so if there's an infection involved, you're going to be looking at a hefty bill – trust me I’ve done this for two senior kitties.

Investing a few bucks into some toothpaste and a toothbrush is way better than an expensive, risky, dreadful surgery.

Once you've successfully trained your fur baby to accept their teeth being brushed, it can become part of bonding time. Cats groom one another as a sign of affection, and while they don't exactly brush each other's teeth, adding it to part of your grooming routine can be a good experience for you both.

What Kind of Brush Should You Use?

Cat toothbrushes come in all kinds of shapes, sizes, and forms. Since different cats have different temperaments and preferences, it might take some experimentation and some training to find the right option.

Here are some of the best options:

• Finger brushes. Often called dental wipes, these are basically slightly abrasive cloths you wrap around your finger, so you can use it to brush their teeth. This gives you more fine control and sensitivity to make sure you're getting as much of the tooth as possible.
• Standard toothbrushes. These are a lot like our human toothbrushes, only with a much smaller head and shorter bristles. Some will say it’s easier to maneuver around a cat's small mouth, but some cats don't like stiff plastic being shoved in their jaw.
• Silicone toothbrushes. These are like traditional toothbrushes, except instead of harder plastic and stiff bristles, they're made of softer silicone. These toothbrushes typically slide over one finger essentially turning your finger into the handle. These are best for cats that don't like the harsher or more abrasive kinds of brushes
• Nubbed toys. If you search online for cat dental toys, you’re like to find a rubber toy with little holes in it. These products are designed less as a toothbrush and more as a toy, hopefully making it more attractive to your cat. Your cat is given an incentive to chew on it, like catnip inside it, and they just chew away. It's more of a passive tooth brushing than an active effort on your part. With that said it’s also less effective, though better than nothing.

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• FAQ: Can CBD Oil Help Calm Cats with Situational Anxiety?
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You can even use a human toothbrush (as long as it's new and only used for your cat) or just wrap your finger in gauze. There are a lot of options! You just need to try a few until you find one that your cat will tolerate.

What Kind of Toothpaste Should You Use, If Any?

Toothpaste is important for human tooth brushing because it's mildly abrasive and can scrape away the built-up bacteria and plaque that cause cavities. But is toothpaste important for cats too?

Generally, yes. If your cat won't tolerate any kind of cat-safe toothpaste, a dry brushing will be better than nothing at all, but if you can get them used to toothpaste, you're much better off.

There are a wide range of cat toothpastes available, and they come in such delectable flavors as tuna, malt, poultry, and salmon. Since these are flavors your cat will probably love, toothbrushing can be considered a treat of sorts.

Never, under any circumstances, use human toothpaste. This is one of the reasons why you shouldn't share a toothbrush with your cat, because of residue on your toothbrush.

Why? Human toothpaste contains fluoride. Fluoride is clinically proven to help prevent cavities and restore tooth enamel… but it's also toxic to cats and dogs. The last thing you want to do is poison your furry child!

Case in Point: Sometimes your cat might want to brush their own teeth, like my angel Moo. If you’re like me, you leave your toothbrush out by your sink and odds are there is some toothpaste residue that remains on the bristles. Many years ago, my husband told me Moosie was chewing on my toothbrush! I was grossed out and worried in the same breath. Needless to say, from that point forward my toothbrush lived in the medicine cabinet. Where does your toothbrush live?

A closing note on toothpaste, look for one that is Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) certified so you can trust the claims the manufacturer is making.

Is It Ok to Use Baking Soda to Brush My Cat’s Teeth?

No.

You may also be tempted to use baking soda to brush your cat’s teeth. Don’t.

“Baking soda has a high alkaline content and, if swallowed, it can upset the acid balance in the stomach and digestive tract.”- VCA Animal Hospitals

How Often Should You Brush Your Cat's Teeth?

Generally, you want to get in the habit of brushing your cat's teeth once daily. You don't need the morning-and-evening brushing people prefer, but a daily cleaning is a good way to maintain dental health and prevent various tooth problems down the line.

Some cats are very resistant to the idea of having their teeth cleaned. There are options you can use – which I talk about further down – but ideally, you'll be able to get them cleaned as often as possible.

Even if that's only once a week or once every two weeks, anything is better than nothing at all. Just keep in mind that once plaque hardens into tartar, it’s difficult to remove without the use dental instruments and general anesthesia.

And, as you may know, while anesthesia-related deaths are rare, complications can and do occur.

“Like any medical procedure, anesthesia does have risks. These risks can run from minor problems, such as mild vomiting after recovery from anesthesia to life-threatening problems such as cardiac arrest or stroke.”- American Veterinary Medical Association.

How to Train a Cat to Let Their Teeth Be Brushed

I’m not going to lie to you, if you have a two-year-old kitty and you decide you want to start brushing their teeth, chances are you're going to be in for a difficult time. However, with a little bit of patience and a lot of love you will soon be happy you did it.

You need to train them, and the earlier you start, the easier it will be. Don’t worry though, older cats can learn new tricks too.

The biggest thing you need is plenty of treats – and it doesn’t have to be food. Positive reinforcement is the name of the game here, so every time you do anything related to tooth brushing, give them a treat.

It could be a fun play session or a special snack. Eventually, they'll associate the act of tooth brushing with the reward and will be more willing to accept it.

Other than that, the key is to start slow and work your way up. Begin by pulling at their lips and looking at their teeth. Don't try to do anything with the toothpaste or brush yet, and be sure to offer them a treat right after.

This might only last for a couple of seconds before they get irritated, and that's fine. You want the action to be tolerable before moving forward. No one wants a foreign object just shoved into their mouth.

Second, offer your kitty a bit of cat-safe toothpaste on a finger for them to lick. I mentioned the special flavors they come in, so your cat will likely think of it as some kind of food and will give it a taste.

You want them to be used to the flavor of the toothpaste so they aren't dealing with you shoving some kind of nasty chemical in their mouths. Again, offer them treats afterward if they aren't into the toothpaste's flavor. You can also try putting a little toothpaste in their mouth without using the toothbrush.

Next, start introducing the toothbrush. You can try different brushes here to see which one they object to the least. Putting a dab of toothpaste on it can get them used to having it around their mouth, but you don't want to try brushing yet. You're just getting them used to a strange new tool, not how it's used. Again, treats after every exposure!

Once they're more used to the brush of choice, you can start trying to brush their teeth. Don't go deep! Start by brushing those big sharp chompers at the front of their mouth and nothing else.

All you're doing is getting them used to two things: the toothbrush being put in their mouth and the sensation of having a tooth brushed. Go slow, do only a tooth or two to start, and reward them for their patience.

Over time, they'll be more willing to let you brush more teeth. Eventually, you'll build up to the point where you can brush their whole mouth, 30 seconds per side. That's when you know your training has been successful.

Here’s a great video showing how to train your cat to let you brush their teeth in 4 weeks:

Are There Other Ways to Promote Cat Oral Health?

Of course. While there's no real substitute for regular tooth brushing, you can do a few things to help ease it along, especially for cats that really, really don't like tooth brushing.

First, make sure their diet is healthy. The worse the diet – especially if it's full of carbs – the worse the bacteria in their mouth will be, and the more likely they are to experience poor dental outcomes.

You want robust, healthy food for them, not food packed with unhealthy fillers. If you switch their food, remember to transition to their new food slowly.

You may also consider a special pro-dental food. These may be prescription foods, or they may just be expensive normal foods, but they can include some elements that help fight mouth bacteria for cats that won't let anyone brush their teeth.

Don't forget to make sure they have dry food as well. It's generally healthier for your cat to eat wet food, but dry food can help with that same effect that bones do for wild cats.

Harder, more abrasive food can scrape teeth clean.

There are also "mouthwash" style products for cats. Now, obviously, you can't train a cat to swish and spit a mouthwash, and you shouldn't try either.

Instead, you can use oral sprays that include some flavoring agent (to make it more pleasant for your fur baby) and an antibacterial and antiplaque chemical to help enhance their oral health.

Of course, a mouth spray can be just as irritating as tooth brushing, so you need to train them on that too. Talk to your vet to see what they recommend.

Anything Else?

Cats are creatures full of love, but they can also be surprisingly high-maintenance. Grooming can be a whole process, which is why we wrote a whole book about it.

Check it out to see if your questions are answered, and if not, drop me a line! I love helping fellow pet parents take care of their furry children.

If your fur baby has anxiety, another thing you might try prior to attempting a tooth cleaning is a bit of CBD. You can learn all about CBD for cats throughout my blog.

So tell me, do you brush your cat’s teeth? When did you start? How often do you brush them? What’s your chosen toothbrush style and how does your cat respond?

Nobody likes to see their fur baby in pain or sick, and if aspirin helps us when we’re ailing, surely it would help them, too, right?

In today’s blog post, I go an inch wide and a mile deep to discuss aspirin for dogs. From the safety of aspirin for dogs to the risks, to safe aspirin alternatives, to holistic pain management options for your dog.

As always, if you are looking for research-backed dog care guides you can actually trust, feel free to visit my blog and search by topic. I’m sure you'll learn a thing or two that will improve your dog’s life.

When it comes to giving dogs aspirin, the truth is perhaps a bit more complicated than you might think, so read on to learn everything there is to know about aspirin for dogs.

First Things First: What is Aspirin?

Aspirin is a type of drug intended for human consumption. It’s used to treat pain, inflammation, or arthritis and it’s part of a group of drugs known as nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID).

At toe beans, we are fanatics of pet parent education. We believe educated and well-informed pet parents make better decisions on behalf of their beloved fur children.

And so, as a general rule of thumb, before you administer anything to your dog, it is always wise to educate yourself about it.

Here's what VCA animal hospitals says about aspirin for pets:

“It’s use in cats, dogs, and small mammals to treat excessive clotting, inflammation, fever, and pain is 'off label' or 'extra label'. Many drugs are commonly prescribed for off label use in veterinary medicine. In these instances, follow your veterinarian’s directions and cautions very carefully as their directions may be significantly different from those on the label.” – VCA Animal Hospitals

Now the question you might have at this point is, what is extra label drug use aka ELDU? Here is what the American Veterinary Medical Association says about it:

“ELDU describes the use of an approved drug in a manner that is not in accordance with the approved labeling, yet meets the conditions set forth by the Animal Medicinal Drug Use Clarification Act of 1994 (AMDUCA) and U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulations.” – American Veterinary Medical Association

Although the FDA has approved some NSAIDS for veterinary medicine (such as Carprofen, Deracoxib, Firocoxib and a few others), aspirin is not one of them.

Is Aspirin Safe for Dogs?

Yes, but also no. Aspirin can be safe for some dogs in the right dosage, in moderation, and of course so long as it is used under the supervision of a veterinarian.

You should always talk to your vet before giving your pup a non-prescribed medication. Every pup is an individual, so their medical background and currently prescribed medications will need to be taken into consideration.

So, while it’s safe when used properly, if your dog knocked over a bottle and ate the pills, you'll need to rush them to the emergency vet.

Keep in mind that aspirin or acetylsalicylic acid (ASA) is also an ingredient in other products such as topical medications, make-up and even shampoo. So, if you get regular puppy kisses, they could be ingesting small amounts on a regular basis.

As with any drug, the key is dosage. Taking too much aspirin can be deadly.

Many vets recommend using one baby aspirin for every 10 pounds of body weight, or one adult aspirin for every 40 pounds of weight, every 12 hours.

If you plan to give your dog aspirin, make sure to keep track of how much you give them and when, so you don't give them too much.

If you suspect you've given your pet too much aspirin, contact your veterinary or pet poison helpline immediately at 1-800-213-6680.

Is Aspirin Approved for Dogs?

No. The FDA has not evaluated aspirin as a medication for dogs.

Additionally, and perhaps most importantly, there are no guarantees of safety when administering human aspirin to your dog.

Nevertheless, as noted above, while aspirin itself has not been approved for dogs, there are several other NSAIDs that have been reviewed and FDA approved for use in dogs.

Keep in mind though, they all require a veterinarian prescription. You should stay away from over-the-counter NSAIDS for pets.

Here's the official FDA’s position about the use of OTC NSAIDS for pets:

“No over-the-counter NSAIDs for dogs and cats are FDA-approved. Any NSAID marketed for dogs or cats online or in a pet store without the need for a prescription from a veterinarian is an unapproved animal drug, meaning FDA has not reviewed information about the drug. An unapproved animal drug may not meet the agency’s strict standards for safety and effectiveness and may not be properly manufactured or properly labeled.” - FDA

You may have heard of many people that have successfully given aspirin to dogs who may also have even had their vets prescribe it. You may also have run into “canine aspirin” online.

Emily Bebout, a veterinary information specialist at the pet poison helpline warns about the use of OTC NSAIDs for your dog.

"I completely understand why owner’s give dogs OTC medication. Your vet is closed, and your dog is in pain. We all hate to see our furry companions in pain and want to do whatever we can to ease their suffering. However, giving medications that are not prescribed can cause more harm than good." | Pet Poison Helpline

Very important to emphasize here, once again, is that aspirin is not technically studied and approved as a canine medication.

If you do give your pup aspirin, make a sure that it’s pure aspirin and doesn’t have other ingredients.

Other pain relievers, like naproxen or ibuprofen, are much more dangerous to dogs than they are to people and can be very damaging or even deadly.

Not all pain relievers are created equal, so always make sure you know what‘s in the medicine you give to your fur baby.

What Are the Benefits of Giving a Dog Aspirin?

While not FDA approved for your dog, and as long as it is used under veterinarian supervision, aspirin does a few things to the body, all through one mechanism.I mentioned above that aspirin is a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory medication, or NSAID.

It blocks something called prostaglandins, which are the chemicals that convey pain sensations to the brain from the body.

The medication can temporarily relieve pain, reduce inflammation caused by pain responses, and can reduce fever and the risk of blood clots.

• Pain relief is the leading reason to give a dog aspirin. It's one of the more effective low-key pain relievers for humans we've developed as a society, with few side effects compared to something like opioids, and it's relatively safe enough to be sold over the counter. Leg injuries, osteoarthritis, and dental issues are all common sources of pain that aspirin might help treat.
• Inflammation and fever can both be addressed by NSAIDs in general. Aspirin might not be the best NSAID to give your pup, but if you're in a tricky situation and can't get a prescription for several days, it might suffice in a pinch. You might consider taking your dog to the emergency vet if they're in that sticky a situation, though.
• Blood clot risk. Sometimes your dog might have a condition or be on other medications (or after a surgery) where blood clotting can be a real risk. In these cases, a bit of aspirin can be a good way to help thin out the blood and minimize the chances of a dangerous clot. This will generally come as a prescription from your vet, though. Note that you shouldn't give your dog aspirin before a surgery, to minimize bleeding risk during the procedure.
• A few new studies have been performed that seem to indicate aspirin might be able to help cut back on eye problems in diabetic dogs. More studies will need to be conducted to figure out how and when to administer aspirin for this effect and if it's worth the potential risks, however.

Is Aspirin Risky for Dogs?

Yes. Aspirin can cause a number of different side effects.

“There are specific times when your veterinarian may prescribe aspirin for your pet. Your veterinarian will recommend an appropriate dose and formulation for your pet and their medical condition. If your pet is in pain, do not give aspirin. Contact your veterinarian. Your veterinarian can recommend a safer and more effective pain reliever made specifically for pets.” - Petmd.com

If your dog is allergic to aspirin, it can cause allergic reactions that can be highly damaging or deadly.

Too much aspirin, or aspirin too often for too long, can also lead to problems. These problems can include asthma, ulcers in the digestive tract, kidney issues, liver damage, and complications from internal bleeding.

Aspirin can also inhibit the body's ability to heal, both directly and indirectly. Inflammation and fever, while unpleasant and potentially dangerous, are part of the immune system's response to injury and infection. By tamping them down, it makes it harder for the body to fight off invaders. In extreme cases, it can even extend the duration of an illness.

Pain relievers also make it more likely to re-injure an injury that is in the process of healing. Pain is a signal that something is wrong, after all. If your dog strains a leg muscle and you give them pain relievers, they might be too active for their injury and could further exacerbate the injury.

Too much aspirin at once can also lead to aspirin toxicity. This can also occur if you give them aspirin regularly for too long. Symptoms to watch out for include lethargy, fever, vomiting, diarrhea, blood in stool, difficulty walking, and a loss of appetite.

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How Much Aspirin Should You Give Your Dog?

As little as you can.

There are relatively little sources of guidance on how much aspirin to give a dog. Considerations must be made for the breed, weight, and size of your dog, as well as the reason why you're giving them the pain reliever in the first place.

For safety reasons, you’ll want to talk to your vet and have them do the calculations.

Again, we don’t recommend giving aspirin to your dog, but if you are in a desperate position and you feel you must, the Merck Manual recommends a range of between 10 and 40 milligrams per kilogram of dog weight.

This is for a generally healthy dog, though, so various conditions and health situations can adjust this number.

Don't just wing it!

Remember, aspirin can be very dangerous to dogs if it's administered improperly.

When is it Okay to Give a Dog Aspirin?

Rarely.

The three general reasons why you might give your dog aspirin include:

• A musculoskeletal injury, like a sprain, strain, or torn muscle, ligament, tendon, or cracked or broken bone. These sources of pain can be hindering to a pup, and relieving some of the burden can make both them and you feel better. Obviously if you suspect a serious injury, a vet visit should always be a top priority. Plus, your pup may need stronger drugs to control their pain.
• An illness that involves a fever and inflammation. Aspirin can help reduce these symptoms while they get over the illness.
• Osteoarthritis from aging. Old dogs don't have to worry as much about long-term side effects, and a bit of aspirin can help them maintain mobility and a higher quality of life as they reach their golden years.

I know, I’m starting to sound like a broken record, but it's worth repeating, you generally should not give your dog aspirin without the advice of a vet telling you to do so.

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They may have alternative ways you can reduce pain and symptoms in your fur baby, and you need their advice on dosage and frequency.

At an annual check-up consider asking your vet some ‘what if’ questions to see if aspirin would be an appropriate option.

How Long Can You Keep Giving Your Dog Aspirin?

As limited of a time span as possible.

Aspirin doesn't entirely flush out of the system right away, so the longer you keep administering the medication, the more small amounts of it can build up until it eventually reaches a point of causing side effects and problems.

With any medication the goal is to use it for a short of time as possible to reach it’s intended purpose.

If your pup has long-term pain such as osteoarthritis, there are many treatment options available, so discuss your concerns with your vet to determine the best treatment plan to ensure the best quality of life.

Can Aspirin Interact with Other Medications?

Yes. Aspirin can interact with other medications, which is why you shouldn’t administer it without discussing it with your vet.

Aspirin can make other medications either more effective or less effective.

ACE inhibitors, which are used for blood pressure regulation, can double up on anticoagulant effects and cause bleeding problems when taken with aspirin.

Heparin and other anticoagulants have a similar effect. When your dog is taking multiple medications with the same effect, it can go out of control.

Other medications you shouldn't combine with aspirin include:

• SSRIs and antidepressants.
• Blood glucose-lowering medications.
• Phenobarbital.
• Steroids like prednisone.
• Spironolactone.
• Calcium channel blockers.
• Furosemide.

Please note this isn't necessarily a complete list, either.

Is Human Aspirin Okay for Dogs?

Not usually, no.

Aspirin can damage your dog’s stomach lining. Aspirin made for people has a coating on it to help protect it while the stomach does its work.

The coating is designed to dissolve as it passes through the stomach, and the medication starts to enter the bloodstream once it passes through the stomach and into the intestines.

Unfortunately, your dog generally can't digest that coating at all. If they eat the pill whole, they won't get the medication entering their system much, if at all.

Alternatively, your vet may recommend buying baby aspirin or grinding up aspirin and adding it to food or a treat. You need to be careful of dosage no matter the avenue of administration.

Are There Alternatives to Aspirin for Dogs?

Yes.

To recap, aspirin is an NSAID, and there are many other NSAIDs out there, but most human NSAIDs are more dangerous for dogs.

The good news is there are re are a handful of NSAIDs made specifically for dogs that you can try.

As noted above, these include Carprofen, Deracoxib, Firocoxib, Meloxicam, and Grapiprant. You can find these under brand names like Novox, Rimadyl, Deramaxx, Previcox, Metacam, and Galliprant. These medications will require a prescription from your veterinarian.

There are also other kinds of medications you can give to your dog for pain-relieving effects.

Gabapentin is a painkiller used in both humans and animals and is a good option for nerve pain. It usually causes sleepiness, at least for the first few days.

Tramadol is another possible pain reliever, like a mild opioid. It has a bunch of digestive side effects though, like vomiting and constipation, but it can be an effective option in some situations.

Another option is to look into supplements and holistic medications. Some people swear by turmeric for dogs, though its therapeutic effects are much less than what you get from a real medication.

CBD can be a good option, too, though it, of course, has caveats as well. You can read all about CBD for dogs here.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask me! I'm not a vet, but I'm a lover of all four-legged friends, and I do my best to give you all the best information I can. You can drop any potential questions you may have in the comments section down below!

That means, at the very least, knowing what's normal so we can know what's abnormal, what it means, and whether or not it's an emergency that needs immediate attention.

I know what you might be thinking: define normal, right?

Any cat parent knows that for many cat-related things, there may not be a standard for normal. For example, what may be normal for one cat may be abnormal for another. Even in multi-cat households.

However, when it comes to health, there are definitely some aspects that have standards. Especially when it comes down to the heart, the most vital organ. This week I will discuss everything related to your cat’s normal resting heartbeat.

Do you know what the normal heart rate for our furry feline friends should be? Or, do you have a clue of what it means if it's outside of the normal range?

Routine at-home physical examinations can help cat parents stay on top of their cats’ heart health. A normal resting heart rate is a good indicator of your cat’s overall health.

Learning about your cat’s heartbeat, especially if you have an aging cat or one with heart disease, can give you a head start on recognizing an issue. This is a topic I hold close to my heart as my two angel cats Sosa and Randa suffered from heart disease late in their lives.

At home routine physical examinations can help cat parents stay on top of their cats’ heart health. Let's dig into some of the most frequently asked questions about this and other feline vitals.

What Is the Normal Heart Rate for a Cat?

A normal resting heart rate for a cat is between 120 to 140 beats per minute (bpm).

You may find conflicting information all over the internet concerning this range. For example, as you will see in the demonstration video below, veterinarian Lindsay Butzer (DVM) discusses the normal heart for a cat as being 180 - 200 beats per minute. We decided to follow the information provided by Merck Veterinary Manual.

Generally, the average heart rate for a cat is much higher than a human heart rate. For reference, the normal resting heart rate for a human is generally between 60 and 100 bpm.

Fun fact: Our doggy friends have a resting heart rate more similar to ours, 70 to 120 bpm.

Cats that are sleepy, cozy, and dozing in a comfortable sunbeam are likely to be on the lower end of the scale. Conversely, cats that are angry, scared, anxious, or have just gotten done playing are likely to be on the higher side of the scale.

How Can You Check Your Cat's Heart Rate?

It’s a good rule of thumb to check your kitty’s heart rate while they are resting to get a consistent reading. There are several ways you can check your cat's heart rate.

Option 1: Put your hand on their chest, just behind their front right leg. This is roughly where the heart is on a cat, so you should be able to feel the beating of their cute little heart. Depending on how active or squirmy your cat is, you may only be able to count beats for around 15 seconds; if they're calm and restful, you can count for a full minute. If you can only count for 15 seconds, of course, multiply the number by four to get something close to their heart rate.

Option 2: In the same location as noted above, put your ear to their chest so you can hear their heart beating. This only works with cats that don't mind both you being up close and personal to their underside and cats that aren't likely to squirm away when you put your face up to theirs. Be mindful that you likely won’t be able to heart a heart beat if you kitty is purring.

Option 3: You can also take their pulse on their primary leg artery, the femoral artery. You can find this vein on the inside of the hind legs, up near where the leg meets the body. Feel around and gently press, looking for the place where you can feel their pulse. Once you locate it, count beats for 15-60 seconds and adjust accordingly.

Option 4: Buy an inexpensive stethoscope. I’ll admit, I bought one when my now angel Sosa was 18 going on 19. I used it to better hear her heartbeat and to keep an ear on her breathing.

In my opinion, this is the easiest and most effective option of all. If you go this route, make sure you get a stethoscope made specifically for pets, then bring it to the next vet appointment to ask your vet how to properly use it.

Check out this 30-second demonstration on how to check your cat’s heartbeat by Dr. Lindsay Butzer DVM:

In all cases, it can be helpful to keep a stopwatch or other timer on hand.

You may also find it useful to multitask by petting your fur baby with your other hand so they stay calm and allow you to feel for their heartbeat. Obviously, some cats don't like being touched so intimately, so this can be tricky.

How Often Should You Check Your Cat's Resting Heart Rate?

This can depend on the reason why you're checking.

Under normal day-to-day life, it can be a good idea to check your cat's heart rate at least weekly though for the average person, this is an unlikely expectation. Keeping a log of heart rate and other vitals can be a good idea to help diagnose any issues and when they start.

Some vitals are harder to take than others, so taking the heartbeat can be done more frequently, even several times a day. If you have a cat that doesn't mind being touched, it's a simple matter to take a heart rate measurement periodically and note whether or not it's outside the normal range.

If you're putting your cat on a new medication, or if you think they're stressed, injured, or sick, you might want to take their vital signs more often. This way, you can notice quickly if they're having trouble or if they're experiencing side effects.

Read More Cat Health Care Guides

• FAQ: How Often Should You Take Your Cat to The Vet?
• Understanding Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) in Cats
• Is Your Cat's Tail Injured? Look for These Telltale Signs
• Cat Colds: How to Treat and Take Care of a Cat with a Cold

Remember, too, that a "normal" range is contextual. Consider the following for example, if your cat has been running back and forth for half an hour, but their heart rate is still in the 140s, it could be a sign of something wrong.

Similarly, if they've been napping and you check their pulse only to find it on the high end of the range, they could have issues you need to deal with.

Neither one is cause for an emergency vet trip, but it can be worth calling your vet to mention it and schedule an appointment if they think it's necessary.

If your cat is averse to being handled in a way that allows you to check their pulse, you'll likely want to work on it over time.

Be gentle with physical affection and reward them with treats when you can, so they associate touch with care, and build that trust until they allow you to stay long enough to get a good count.

What if Your Cat's Heartbeat Is Too Fast?

A fast heart rate is not itself a problem, but it can be a symptom of a problem.

First, think about what your cat has been doing recently. If they've been running around, playing, chasing your ankles or the other cats in the household, or even doing something stimulating like watching birds out the window, their heart rate may be elevated.

It's the same way that we get excited, or our heart rates increase when we exercise. Your kitty is fine; they've just been enjoying themselves and expending energy.

On the other hand, as pointed out in the previous section, if their heart rate is over 200 beats per minute and all they've been doing is napping, there may be a health issue at play.

Moreover, if their heart rate is above 220 and they haven't been engaged in play recently, or if it's significantly higher than a previous check, you should discuss the finding with your vet.

Come to your vet armed with any other symptoms. In particular, you might check for:

• Blue discoloration of the mucous membranes in the mouth.
• Difficulty breathing, rapid breathing, irregular breathing, or labored breathing.
• A cough, wheezing, or other respiratory issue.
• Fainting.
• Weakness.
• Lethargy or intolerance to exercise.

These and other related symptoms can be a sign of a variety of different health problems. These can range from simple to serious and include issues like:

• Pain
• Pancreatitis.
• Heart disease, tumors, or cancer.
• Side effects from medications, particularly heart medications.
• Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy (HCM).
• Congenital heart defects.
• Hypothyroidism.
• Metabolic disease.
• Infection or illness.
• Shock or stress.
• Anxiety.

If your fur baby has a rapid heart rate, you should call your vet and be prepared to bring them in for an emergency check-up and examination.

In cases where their heart rate is too high or is elevated for too long, your vet may want to perform some tests. These tests may include an electrocardiogram (EKG) to monitor heart performance, imaging, and even blood tests to look for signs of disease.

It's worth noting that many vets don’t have the tools or expertise to perform an EKG in office and will refer you to a pet cardiologist. Curious about what happens at a vet cardiology appointment? Check out my experience here.

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What if Your Cat's Heartbeat Is Too Slow?

Healthy cats tend to have lower heart rates. When the body has to struggle to function, whether because of illness or disease, stress, or temporary problems, the heart has to pump faster to keep the body working. Thus, a slower heart rate is generally better.

That said, a slow heart rate even when exercising, or a very slow heart rate when resting, can be a sign of a problem. Called bradycardia, a slow heart rate can indicate issues such as:

• Hypothermia.
• Oversedation.
• Respiratory illnesses.
• Neurological diseases.
• Gastrointestinal diseases.

You'll want to look for other symptoms, such as passing out, lethargy, very slow breathing, and exercise intolerance. You may also notice seizures.

Again, you should call your vet and be prepared to bring your fur baby in for an examination. Your vet will run tests like the ECG, imaging, and a blood panel to look for possible reasons why your fur baby is having troubles.

Generally, a slow heart rate is either a sign of a healthy, active cat or a cat with underlying problems, and it will return to a normal range when those problems are addressed.

What if Your Cat's Heart Rate Is Irregular?

In a cat’s body, there are two nodes, part of the nervous system, that are responsible for sending regular signals to the heart to contract.

These nodes normally operate on a regular basis, but in times of distress, illness, or because of defects, might misfire. This can lead to skipped beats, irregular beats, and other variations in heart rhythm.

Irregular heartbeats can be an arrhythmia, or they can manifest as a heart murmur or another potential disease. Even a regularly spaced heartbeat can be "bad" if the beating fires in the wrong order, putting undue stress on the heart.

Important to note here is that occasional, sporadic irregular heartbeats are not necessarily a sign of something bad.

“Irregular heart rhythm, or cardiac arrhythmia, is important to take note of but is not always a serious condition. An irregular heartbeat occurs from time to time when a cat is under stress, nervous, or scared. Some breeds, like Persians, Maine Coon cats, and Himalayans, tend to be more prone to irregular heart rhythms than others.” - Rocky Mountain Veterinary Cardiology

Heart problems can be genetic, related to aging, and/or illness. Some breeds are more prone to heart disease such as HCM, so their heart rate and heart function should be monitored more closely.

A taurine deficiency can sometimes also cause this, though taurine deficiency is very rare in cats that are being fed properly.

As with other heart issues, call your vet and be prepared to bring your fur baby in for an examination to see what's wrong and how to fix it.

What Other Vital Signs Should You Check?

In addition to monitoring your cat’s heartbeat, part of a routine at-home physical examination should also include a vitals check. Heart rate is one of the core vitals; the other two are temperature and respiration rate.

Temperature is the most difficult to take because the best way to do it is rectally. A simple thermometer, a bit of water-soluble lube, and a calm cat distracted by treats are required to take their temperature. Ideally, your cat's internal body temperature will be somewhere between 100.5 and 102.5 degrees F.

Respiration is breathing. All you need here is to watch your cat's sides rise and fall or put a hand in front of their nose to feel for their breathing.

According to Dr. Bruce G. Kornreich, D.V.M, Ph.D., DACVIM, a normal range is between 15 and 30 breaths per minute.

“The normal resting respiratory rate for cats is between 15 and 30 breaths per minute. Respiratory rates above 35 breaths per minute in either species should prompt consultation with a veterinarian.” - Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine

Cats have small lungs, after all, and need to breathe fairly frequently to get the oxygen they need. As with heart rate, the more active they are or have been, the faster they'll breathe.

Like timing your kitty’s heartrate, counting their breaths while they are resting, even sleeping, is the best way to get a consistent rate.

Two other vitals you can check are called the CRT, or capillary refill time, and the mucous membrane state.

• CRT can be checked by opening your cat's mouth and lightly pressing on their gums. This presses the blood away from the surface and leaves the area white until the blood comes back. It should take no more than two seconds for the blood to return; if it takes longer, or it doesn't return at all, call your vet immediately.
• Mucous membranes are the interior surfaces of the mouth, as well as the nose, around the eyes, and other such surfaces. Look for discoloration – they should be a healthy pink – and make sure they're moist.

Finally, you can also check hydration status. A dehydrated kitty is an unhappy kitty, but if they aren't drinking, it can be a sign of any number of problems, including kidney issues, infections, and more. Keep an eye on how frequently your cat is drinking, how often they're urinating, and how elastic their skin is.

There are two main ways to check if your kitty is dehydrated.

The first is to touch their gums. Tacky or sticky gums is a sign of dehydration.

The second is to pinch the skin over their shoulder blades. In a hydrated cat the skin will almost immediately return to its original position. A dehydrated cat’s skin will slowly go from the tented position back into the original position.

What Other Questions Do You Have?

If you have any other questions about the health, the at-home checks, or the other potential things to watch for with our feline friends, please reach out and drop me a line. I'm not a vet, but I'm a friend to animals, and I know plenty about how to keep them happy and healthy.

At the same time, you can check out the rest of my blog for tips on everything from training cats or trimming their nails without making it a fight. There's something for everyone, so check it out!

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

As always, if you found this content useful, all our blog content on toe beans is shareable. So, what are you waiting for to spread the love? Go ahead and hit any social media icon of your preference around the post for instant sharing with friends and family. Sharing is caring!

Is the same true of our feline friends? Sometimes our kitties' noses are wet, and sometimes they're dry.

Is either one a cause for concern, or are they both more or less normal?

In today’s blog post we’ll explore some of the most common reasons for your cat's wet nose, potential causes of concern to watch out for, as well as how to monitor your cat's nose for changes.

Surprisingly enough, your cat’s nose can sometimes be a great source of information on your cat’s health and well-being.

As usual, if you are looking for trustworthy and authoritative cat parent education you are in the right place. I've also added a great video of a cat drinking water from a faucet. Does your kitty ever do that?

Let’s learn about cat wet noses, shall we?

The Health Myth

There's a common myth with both cats and dogs specifically revolving around their noses.

It goes a little something like this: if your cat's nose is wet, they're fine and healthy. If it's dry, they're sick and need attention.

This is entirely a myth. In fact, cat noses go through cycles throughout the day. Whether it's wet or dry in general depends on what they've been doing recently, what their habits are, and even their natural health levels.

Some cats just run damper than others. It's sort of like how some people are prone to sweating a lot more than other people. Each kitty is unique.

Fun Fact: the print of a cat’s nose is unique just like the human fingerprint!

Why do I bring this up? Mostly just because it can lead you to over-think a situation or miss signs of actual problems. A wet nose is usually fine but it can indicate a respiratory illness in certain situations.

Likewise, a dry nose is usually fine but can indicate dehydration.

The key is context, so looking at other symptoms and behaviors is critical. You also need to take into consideration what is normal for your cat.

Why is My Cat's Nose Wet?

There are actually a lot of different reasons why your cat's nose might be wet, either when they're just wandering around and going about their business doing cat things or when they're up in your business rubbing their face all over you and yours. Let’s go through some of the most common reasons.

1. They just licked it.

Sometimes, your cat's nose might be moist because they just licked it. Cats pretty frequently mlem those pink tongues of theirs right up over their noses for a bunch of different reasons. The biggest two are grooming and temperature regulation.

Cats groom themselves with their tongues, so they use their tongues to solve a lot of different bodily problems. If their nose itches, tickles, or feels like it has something on it, your cat is likely to give it a lick. It's a feat only a few talented humans can pull off, but cats do it without breaking a sweat.

Temperature regulation is also important. Humans sweat when we need to cool off since the evaporation is an effective way of cooling us down. Dogs don't have much in the way of sweat glands, so they pant.

Cats don't usually pant (at least, they shouldn't be!), but they also have relatively few sweat glands. So, they'll often moisten their noses and let that evaporation help cool them off.

Catnip can also be a culprit here. Catnip stimulates a lot of different parts of a cat's system, and it can make tear ducts or nasal glands work overtime. More likely, though, it just tickles their nose while they're sniffing at it, and they're licking their nose more to alleviate it.

2. Natural sweating.

Another reason your fur baby might have a moist nose is sweat.

As I just mentioned, cats use their noses as one of the primary ways they keep their temperature down because it's one of the few places where their skin is directly exposed to outside temperatures.

Their noses are also one of the few places they have sweat glands. So that moisture might not be kitty drool; it might be kitty sweat. Either way, it'll evaporate quickly since that's what it's meant to do.

3. Tear duct drainage.

Nasal cavities, sinuses, eye sockets, tear ducts, and all the other sorts of bits in the nose and mouth are connected to one another in various ways.

One of the more surprising things a lot of people don't know – about themselves or about their cats – is that when your eyes water and tears build up, they don't always evaporate or fall away.

You actually have little drainage ducts in the corners of your eyes, where excess tears can drain away back into your head. Usually, they drain into the nasal cavity, down the back of your throat, and are absorbed back into your body.

With cats, it's the same way, so that means it could be out through the nose. This is another case where your fur baby might lick their nose because of the excess moisture.

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4. Humidity in the air.

If you've ever spent time working outside when it's humid, you know that evaporation stops working once the atmospheric moisture levels get too saturated. You can't send more moisture into the air if the air is already saturated, after all!

Well, the same thing goes for your kitty as well. Their little noses can't evaporate and dry back if the air around them is too moist.

You'll probably notice that your cat's nose is wetter the more humid it is outside and inside, wherever they spend their time.

So, if your kitty has a wet nose that seems to be more seasonal, it’s likely in the hottest months of the year.

5. They just had a drink.

Cats love to drink water, whether it's from a faucet, from a bowl, or even from your own cup!

One quirk of this is that they need to put their faces really close to the water to lap it up. Obviously, right?

• Running water can splash and spill on them. This could be minor, or it could be more of a major inability to "get" what the faucet is doing like the kitty in the video!

• Some cats are just a little messier than others. They might lap up water and splash it on themselves as they drink. This is particularly the case if your cat laps up water with a more aggressive kind of drinking (since not all cats use the optimal drinking method.)

• If their water is clear and still, your cat might have a hard time judging how deep it is and how close they are to it. Cats have powerful eyesight, but it's tuned more for movement, so still water can be difficult to detect properly. Then they go to drink and dunk their face right in it. You might be seeing a wet nose because they just took a bit of an impromptu bath. My angel Moo used to always have a wet chin because he would dunk it in the water as he was drinking!

Whatever the case may be, sometimes your fur baby just has a wet nose because they got it wet trying to drink. No big deal, right?

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6. They have the sniffles.

One of the only potential causes for concern on this list, at least as far as a wet nose is concerned, is a cold. Cats can get the sniffles (or any other sort of respiratory illness) the same way people do, and that means they have similar symptoms, including post-nasal drip, a runny nose, a stuffy nose, or irritated sinuses.

Luckily, your fur baby will generally show other symptoms if this is what's bothering them. For one thing, their nose won't just be a little moist; it'll be dripping.

They'll also probably be panting or breathing open-mouthed, because their nose is stuffy.

They may also hide, cry in distress, or have other symptoms. You can read a whole lot more about various causes of respiratory distress over here.

Is a Wet Nose a Cause for Concern?

Not usually, no.

If you suspect your fur baby is sick, then you'll want to take them to the vet to make sure it's nothing serious and to get any useful medications or supplements to give them.

Most of the time, though, they aren't sick; they're just a little damp, and there's nothing wrong with that!

It's perfectly normal and natural for a cat's nose to be a cold, moist little dab of purring love.

Vet journalist Ingrid King says this:

"Even though people seem to think that a wet nose is a sign of health [and] a dry, warm nose is a sign of sickness, that's actually not true... A cat's nose may go back and forth between being wet and dry several times a day, depending on the cat's activity. Did your cat just eat or groom herself? Her nose will be wet. Has she been lying in the sun, or is the air in your house extremely dry? Her nose will be dry. The only way your cat's nose will be an indicator of her health is if you notice anything abnormal, such as flaking skin, lumps and bumps, or a runny nose."

Why is My Cat's Nose Dry?

Now let's take things in the opposite direction. Why is your cat's nose dried out? Is that dangerous or a cause for concern?

1. The humidity level is low

The most common reason your cat's nose is dry is, well, it's dry out! Dry air, even at what we consider a comfortable level of humidity, is enough to dry out things like your kitty's nose (and their skin, eyes, and nasal cavities too.)

They lick their nose, they get it wet, that moisture evaporates, and they're left with a dry nose. That's all there is to it!

This is especially common in the winter months in many locations, though some places have hot, dry summers as well. The drier it is outside and inside, the more likely your cat's nose will be dry.

Pro Tip: To combat the dryness of the climate, consider getting a humidifier.

2. They've been napping in the sun

They might also have a dry nose because they've been napping in a pleasant sunbeam, and that direct sunlight dried them out. You'll notice that when they wake up, one of the first things they're likely to do is go take a drink. Honestly, same; we should all be drinking a lot more water than we usually are.

Cats can also get sunburned, particularly on their noses. From the ASPCA:

"Cats are at risk of getting sunburn on their hairless noses, which can cause dryness, swelling, redness, and flaky skin. Sunburn is more prevalent in white-haired cats who have pink noses. If your cat has a light coat or is obsessed with soaking up the sun, you may need to take steps to protect them against harmful rays."

3. They've been licking it

Wait, didn’t I just say that’s a reason your cat’s nose is wet? Well, yes, I did, but excessive licking can lead to a dry nose.

If your kitty has a runny nose, they are likely to lick it more often to clean up. If the sniffles don’t resolve in a day or two, the excess licking over a period of time can lead to a dry, rough irritated nose.

If you’ve ever been licked by a cat, you’re familiar with the little barbs on their tongue. Constant licking can cause a lot of irritation, so it’s important to recognize the change so you can help your fur baby get well.

4. They are dehydrated

Speaking of drinking more water, sometimes cats can end up dehydrated.

In fact, I just listened to a vet talk about how cats that eat only dry food often live in a purrpetual state of mild dehydration. Cats naturally get a lot of water from their food, but dry food is obviously lacking that moisture.

Some cats also don’t like still water, so they may be ignoring their water bowl until they convince you to turn on the sink for them. I’m a big fan of water fountains because they keep the water moving, and in my experience keep kitties drinking more often.

Minor dehydration just means your fur baby will be thirsty, but major dehydration can crop up and cause problems. Keep an eye out for symptoms like:

• Sunken eyes.
• Loss of appetite.
• Lethargy beyond normal catnaps.
• Panting.
• Elevated heart rate.

These can all be signs of systemic distress, which can be caused by things like dehydration and the issues it causes, including electrolyte imbalances and organ problems.

Is a dry nose cause for concern?

Again, not generally. It's only if they have other symptoms of dehydration that you need to get them checked out and rehydrated.

If you're concerned that your cat has some kind of health problem, here's a quick exam process from the humane society:

• Check their skin, looking for lumps, scratches, or irregularities.
• Check their ears for odors, liquid, swelling, or mites.
• Check their eyes for redness, tearing, discoloration, or discharge.
• Check their mouth for red gums, drooling, brown teeth, or bad breath.
• Check their nose for discharge and watch them to see if they paw at it a lot.
• Check their rear, looking for rice-like white bits that can indicate worms.
• Check their feet for cuts, swelling, or other problems.

If you spot any problems, bring your fur baby to the vet to give them a once-over. Hopefully, nothing's wrong, or what's wrong can be solved with a little pampering!

Now, I'll hand it over to you, the readers! Tell me all about your furry friends! Are their snoots a little more on the wet side, or are they a little more dry? I absolutely love hearing all about your fur babies, so be sure to share your stories in the comments section down below!

In today’s post I discuss what mange is, how can you identify it, as well as what you can do if your pupper pal has it.

Read on to find out! Not sure if you are aware that it can be pretty serious if left untreated, but if you catch it early, it's easily treatable and not terribly dangerous.

What is Mange?

Mange is a skin condition, sort of like a dermatitis. It's caused by a kind of parasitic mite and can affect dogs of all ages.

There are three different kinds of mange, all caused by different kinds of mites and with slightly different symptoms and presentations. The mites feed on skin and burrow into the skin to lay eggs, furthering the cycle of infection.

Exposed and damaged skin also leads to further infections that can be damaging in their own ways.

The three types of mange are:

• Sarcoptic Mange. This is caused by the Sarcoptes Scabiei mite. Also known as scabies, this form of mange can be passed from dog to dog and even dog to human, though it doesn't typically thrive on humans. While very contagious to people, you might only experience some minor irritation but can pass it on to other dogs.
• Demodectic Mange. The mite that causes this form of mange is Demodex Canis. Unlike sarcoptic mange, this form of mange can't pass to humans. It's also a mite that is normally present on a dog's skin and is usually harmless. This form of mange tends to affect puppies and dogs with weakened immune systems most of all.

“Demodectic mange most often occurs when a dog has an immature immune system, allowing the number of skin mites to increase rapidly. This disease occurs primarily in dogs less than 12 to 18 months of age. As the dog matures, its immune system also matures.” - VCA Animal Hospitals

• Otodectic Mange. This is a localized form of mange mostly found in puppies, caused by Otodectes Cynotis ear mites. It's basically an ear infection, not a generalized skin infection.

“Clinical signs include large amounts of “coffee grounds” debris in the ear canals with constant head shaking and digging at the ears due to the intense pruritis.” - Gatorland Animal Services – University of South Florida

Of the three, sarcoptic mange is the most dangerous, though all three kinds of mange can be bad if they're left to run out of control.

“These mites (Sarcoptes scabiei var cani) are very contagious, and they are spread by both direct contact between dogs and through contact with contaminated environments such as kennels, grooming facilities, multi-dog households and dog parks.” - Dr. Brian Collins, D.V.M. | College of Veterinary Medicine | Cornell University

There are also a handful of other kinds of mange, but they don't typically infect dogs. Some mange only affects animals like deer and rabbits, some affects foxes, and some infects birds. You can learn more about the different types of mange here if you're curious.

Is Mange Dangerous?

Yes, it is. If left untreated, mange can be extremely dangerous.

Mange is highly irritating, causing your dog to itch and scratch and can dramatically decreasing their quality of life.

Moreover, it's extremely contagious, so it can pass from one dog to another, including dogs at the dog park or doggy daycare if you send your pet pal away for a workday or weekend.

Extreme cases of mange can even be fatal due to skin infections and other problems.

Mange can seem like it comes out of nowhere, but it actually takes time to build up to truly dangerous levels.

Staying vigilant and making sure you respect the signs of mange can help you handle it long before you reach the point where your dog's life is at risk.

Is Mange Treatable?

Yes it is. Since mange is a parasitic infection, treatment generally involves an antiparasitic medication, along with careful cleansing of the skin to help promote healing.

Even dogs with extreme cases of mange can heal and be restored to full vigor with the proper care. Here's a before-and-after shot, though be warned, the "before" is heartbreaking.

While there are a lot of examples of dogs that suffer from extremely advanced cases of mange (and have miraculous transformations when they're treated with proper medical care), this is usually a rarity, caused by a dog being a stray or getting lost for a long time.

Usually, mange can be caught early and treated successfully before it becomes a huge problem.

Mange is a lot more common than many people realize, simply because of how contagious it is and how treatable it is when handled quickly.

What Does Mange Look Like?

In early infections, mange doesn't look like much.

Mange can look different depending on the type of infection. In general, it can show as a reddening of the skin in patches or patchy bits of hair loss.

Usually, it looks more like generalized itching and irritation. You might worry that your pet pal has fleas long before you suspect mange.

Sarcoptic mange can occur anywhere from 10 days to two months after your pup comes into contact with a dog that has scabies. It's usually first seen on the edges of the ears, chest, and belly.

General symptoms of mange include:

• Extreme itchiness
• Skin redness
• Yellow crusty areas
• Hair loss
• Secondary skin infections

Advanced cases can present as a thickening of the skin, inflamed lymph nodes, and emaciation as the dog in question struggles with the infection.

Demodectic mange has a similar presentation, but it tends to be more full-body and results in more hair loss than scabies.

As mentioned above, it's not nearly as contagious; since the mites that cause it are normally present on the skin of your pup, it tends to be a side effect of other issues that compromise the immune system.

It can also crop up on new puppies that don't have a fully strengthened immune system yet.

Otodectic mange is similar to demodectic mange but localized to the ears in all but the most extreme cases. You can follow all of the steps to look for and diagnose an ear infection and have a good chance at catching this kind of mange early.

Like demodectic mange, otodectic mange is often primarily found in puppies.

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How is Mange Diagnosed?

Generally, mange is diagnosed by your veterinarian.

The vet will take a skin scraping (don't worry, it's not painful) and examine the skin sample under a microscope. For sarcoptic mange, the vet will look for the mites that cause it, which have a round, eight-legged appearance.

Demodectic mange, on the other hand, might not show in a skin sample. Usually, it can be assumed to be mange if the test for sarcoptic mange is negative, and your puppy pal has some immune system issue.

In some cases, if a skin scraping is negative, the vet might take a full biopsy to look for other problems. They will either try to confirm mange through a more rigorous test, or they may try to rule out other problems, like bacterial infections, viral infections, etc.

Since early mange can so often resemble something like an allergic reaction, it's important to look for the mites directly.

If you suspect your furry friend has mange, be very careful to keep them isolated from other dogs until you can work on treatment.

Since sarcoptic mange is so contagious, it can sweep through a daycare, kennel, or doggy social group very quickly.

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How is Mange Treated?

As you might expect, treating mange involves killing the mites that cause it, treating any secondary infections, and helping the skin to heal.

The first step is often clipping or shaving the affected area. Fur makes it more difficult to treat the skin issues mange causes and can harbor mites in the hair follicles.

Longer-furred dogs will usually need more of a clipping than shorthaired dogs. If your dog has matted or tangled hair, you may need to brush it out before you can trim their hair.

The second phase of treatment often involves medicated shampoos. Giving your pup a bath in a medicated shampoo will help to kill off the mites and cleanse the skin.

These shampoos also tend to have antibacterial properties, as well as soothing properties to help fight the itching that terrorizes your poor pup pal.

While the exact instructions will vary depending on the severity of the infection and the type of shampoo, you're generally going to want to bathe your furry (or now not-so-furry) friend about once a week while continuing with the third phase of treatment at the same time.

Check out this short video on how to bathe a dog with mange by Dr. James Talbott from Belle Forest Animal Hospital

The third phase of treatment is a medicated topical ointment that you apply to the mange-infected areas. This is a stronger, more direct medication aimed at killing the mites and preventing them from coming back.

It also soothes the skin, reduces itching, and forms a barrier against other forms of infection. These prescription ointments are generally applied over the course of several weeks, though different medications and different treatments will have different instructions.

Oral medications may also be prescribed by your vet. Pups with extreme cases of mange may also need to be treated with antibiotics for secondary skin infections.

As always, don't take my word for it; talk to your vet and follow the instructions they give you. They'll know the best way to treat whatever variety and severity of mange your pup is suffering from.

An important step you’ll want to make sure you follow is cleaning up your home. Similar to a flea infestation, it’s important to do some sanitizing of bedding and soft toys to kill off any remaining mites.

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Can You Treat Mange with Home Remedies?

There are a lot of potential home remedies floating around.

Any time you see some kind of skin condition, you can bet there's someone who will tell you some combination of lemon, apple cider vinegar, garlic, neem oil, or another natural material will help ward off the nasty infection and restore your pup to good health.

Do they work? There are mixed reviews. Some people claim they work, but they may have had a case of demodectic mange that worked itself out naturally, not scabies mange. Others may have thought their dog had mange when s/he really didn't.

The truth is that home remedies for mange are a mixed bag.

Some of them may work, for some cases, but they aren't anywhere near as reliable or as effective as actual medicated shampoos and mite treatments.

It’s important to note that some home remedies can be painful for your pup. If you've ever gotten lemon juice in a paper cut, you know it stings; now imagine using a lemon-vinegar concoction to treat a skin infection!

Others, like bleach or motor oil, can obviously be very dangerous to your dog. Yikes! Why would anyone even suggest this?? Don't use those.

I’m all for using natural remedies instead of prescriptions, but you have to know for sure what problem you’re facing. And in some cases, a natural remedy just isn’t going to cut it.

Natural remedies are best used as supplements and not a replacement for medical treatment.

Make sure anything you pick to use is safe for use on damaged skin, and talk to your vet before doing so in case there are medication interactions or other concerns you should know about ahead of time.

Can You Prevent Mange?

Mange can be difficult to prevent entirely, however you can minimize the chances that your pup contracts an infection after they come into contact with a dog that carries the mites.

The first thing to do is make sure to be vigilant. If you suspect a case of mange out of any of the dogs in your pet pal's social circle, try to keep your dog away until the issue is dealt with. They may miss their friend, but it's better to only have one infected dog than to have two.

Similarly, if one of your dogs contracts mange, keep them isolated from other dogs in your household.

Any time you interact with the infected dog, make sure to wash yourself thoroughly before interacting with the other dogs to prevent spreading the mites.

Washing thoroughly is the second best thing to do. Mange is often a consequence of poor hygiene, which is why you see it so often in stray and wild dogs.

Bathe your dog regularly, and make sure to be thorough (here's my guide on how to bathe and groom your pup like a pro).

I also wrote a guide on how to make bath time faster and easier.

In addition to following a thorough bath routine, and as a preventative measure, we recommend periodic use of our USDA certified organic Momma Knows Best Fresh Snuggles Dry Dog Shampoo in between baths.

MKB’s fresh snuggles dry dog shampoo is naturally formulated with two science-proven mite repellents: lavender and geranium essential oils. Mites simply hate the smell of lavender. Your pup will smell fresh longer between baths while keeping those pesky bugs away!

And of course you will also want to make sure you bring your pupper in for regular checkups at the vet. They know where to look and what to look for to detect the early signs of mange before it becomes a huge issue.

Has your dog ever had mange? Don't worry about feeling like a bad pet parent; it can happen to anyone, and it's not your fault. As long as you keep your eyes open and take action as soon as you notice the symptoms starting to appear, you're doing the only thing you can. Tell me your story in the comments! I would love to hear them, and I'm sure the other readers would, as well! Mange can be heartbreaking, but also heartwarming, particularly if you've ever had a hand in transforming a suffering stray into a loving friend and lifelong companion.

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You May Also Want to Read

• My Dog Won't Stop Licking: Is It a Problem and What Should I Do?
• How to Tell When Your Dog Has an Ear Infection (And What to Do)
• How Often Should a Healthy Dog Poop Each Day?

Check out this adorable bread obsessed kitty:

While some of this is clearly adorable behavior from a hungry little predator, sometimes there may be a bit more of a sinister undertone.

Sharing a little fish or chicken, usually not a big deal. Cats are obligate carnivores, they have to eat meat to survive, and your meat is definitely tasty.

Bread, though? Can they eat that?

You can put that particular fear to rest: cats can safely eat plain bread without many issues, though they don't need the carbs, so it’s not something nutritional beneficial for them.

Like any treat, it should be held in moderation for the overall health of your furry friend.

Not all human foods are safe for feline consumption, though. Today we’re going to review some of the more common types of food we may have in our homes that should never make their way into your cat's system.

It’s worth mentioning that many of these foods have different toxicity levels. Toxicity can mean anything from digestive upset all the way to death. In many cases a very small amount won’t be fatal but read on to learn more.

1: Alcohol

This one should come as no surprise. After all, alcohol is a toxin for people, too; that buzz you feel after a glass or two of wine is a side effect of being, well, poisoned.

It's just socially acceptable for people to do a little self-harm as a tasty treat in this particular instance.

Cats, though, have neither the social support and cultural mores nor the body mass necessary to handle alcohol. Even a little of the stuff can lead to dangerous complications and even death.

Signs of alcohol toxicity:

These can occur as soon as 15-30 minutes after ingestion.

• Lethargy
• Lack of coordination
• Drooling
• Vomiting
• Weakness/Collapse
• Decreased respiratory rate
• Hypothermia (low body temperature)

Many cat parents mistakenly believe that so long as they avoid directly giving alcohol to their cats, the risk of alcohol poisoning is non-existent.

The truth of the matter is that there are many ubiquitous sources of alcohol around the house that might potentially put their cats at risk:

Ethanol — Common sources of ethanol include alcoholic drinks, desserts flavored with alcohol, fermented fruits, unbaked yeast dough, some liquid medications, and mouth washes.
Methanol — The most common sources of methanol include windshield fluids, some gasoline additives, and some paint solvents.
Isopropanol — This alcohol has twice the potency of ethanol or methanol. Common sources include 70 percent rubbing alcohol, hand sanitizer, glass cleaners, perfumes or colognes, detergents, antifreeze, and some grooming products or flea sprays. | Animal Emergency Care

2: Yeast

Anything you’re making with yeast in it is a one-two punch of danger for a cat.

Raw yeast alone is unpleasant because it can grow in your cat's digestive system, releasing gasses that cause uncomfortable bloating and digestive issues.

Moreover, yeasts often produce alcohol as a byproduct, and we just covered how dangerous those can be.

Note that this only means active yeasts; a baked bread, even if yeast is an ingredient, has had that yeast killed by the heat of baking and is thus safer.

Signs of yeast dough ingestion include:

• Bloat
• Unsuccessful attempts to vomit that result in nothing or a little white foam
• Enlarged abdomen
• Tremors
• Weakness
• Increased heart rate
• Collapse

If you bake bread at home, or in a facility that hosts cats, make sure to never leave dough out to rise in a place that is within a cat’s reach.

“A key part of baking bread is giving it time to rise (proof). While proofing dough may not look appetizing to people, it may to pets. It’s important not to leave dough out to rise in an area accessible by dogs and cats, including countertops.” | ASPCA Pro.org

3: Chocolate

Chocolate has a few different substances called methylxanthines, which are derived from xanthine as a base.

Several different chemicals fall into this category, including two you're more likely to be familiar with: theobromine and caffeine.

Both of these are mildly beneficial to people but can have dangerous effects on animals, including cats.

Caffeine can lead to seizures, tremors, and death if consumed by cats (and dogs), so you should keep your chocolate treats locked away. The darker the chocolate, the worse it is, too.

Story time: One Halloween a few years back, I purchased some bags of mixed chocolate bars and left them on the counter. When I got home from work, I found the bag ripped open and several of the chocolate bars had been sampled. I’m not just talking about teeth marks. Some of the chocolate was clearly eaten. The guilty party was fine, and I learned it’s not just dogs that break into candy stashes.

Signs of chocolate toxicity:

• Hyperactivity
• Restlessness
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Increased thirst
• Elevated heart rate
• Tremors
• Hyperthermia (elevated body temperature)

4-5: Coffee and Tea

While you probably enjoy a nice cup of coffee or tea in the mornings to get you up and moving, that caffeine is just as dangerous to your cat as it is when it's in chocolate.

Black or green tea is known to cause liver and gastrointestinal organ damage in cats.

While you may read on other blogs that catechins are beneficial to your cat and that it’s ok to give your cat black or green tea so long as you cat is healthy and isn’t fasting, we highly advise you consult with your veterinarian before giving tea to your fur baby.

To be on the safe side, don't let your fur baby have a cuppa joe, no matter how much they beg and whine about it. They probably just want your attention, not your treat, anyway.

Be careful, too; even "decaf" drinks still have some natural caffeine in them. It's below the threshold where a human will feel it, but cats are much smaller than people and, thus, much more sensitive to smaller amounts of these substances.

Read More Cat Wellness Guides

• How to Buy Catnip for Cats
• FAQ: Can You Give Cats Human Grade CBD Oil?

A lick or two of your coffee or tea usually isn’t a big deal, but after the first time, be sure to keep your beverages supervised.

I had to switch to a travel mug when I worked from home after I caught my angel Moo with his head in my cup of tea. Luckily, nothing happened but I got really scared.

Many pet parents may be unaware of dangerous sources of caffeine laying around the house. Some overlooked sources of caffeine that may put your cat in danger include:

• Sodas
• Energy or sports drinks
• Diet pills
• Over the counter pain medications
• Over the counter energy boosting pills Your favorite candy bar may also contain caffeine.
• Chocolate (with that fun crinkling wrapper?)
• Coffee flavored ice creams (that bowl you left in the sink without rinsing)

6-8: Lemons, Oranges, and Grapefruits

Citrus fruits, in general, are bad for cats. Two particular substances in the citrus cause issues: citric acid and citrus oils naturally found in the peels and throughout the fruits.

These substances can lead to upset stomachs and digestive unrest, as well as central nervous system depression, which is a lot worse than it sounds (and isn't related to mental health.)

Luckily, most cats don't like the scent of citrus and will stay away from it on their own, which is why citrus scents are often used as deterrents for cat training.

9: Coconut

Coconut oil is a common item in holistic medicine, and there's a small amount of evidence to suggest that it can help cats out with certain coat issues, largely relating to vitamin deficiencies.

Contrary to what you may read all over the internet about the health benefits for your cat, caution should be exercised with coconut.

A quick search of coconut for cats will result in a lot of affiliate marketing sites trying to sell you on hundreds of products. Beware!

Here is what the Drake Center for Veterinary care says about credible and unsubstantiated claims on coconut benefits for your cat:

Coconut oil claims with no credible basis based on what we currently know include: Cancer prevention, dental calculus and periodontal disease prevention, weight loss, thyroid dysfunction; Claims that may have a credible basis include: Dry skin, wound healing, atopic dermatitis | The Drake Center for Veterinary Care

My best advice is that if you’re going to try supplementing with coconut oil, make sure it’s food grade and always talk with your vet first. It can cause digestive issues, so it’s always best to start with a small amount to see how your kitty responds.

Last, but not least, the flesh and milk of the coconut are high in potassium so they should always be avoided.

10: Dairy

Any of you out there who are lactose intolerant know how unpleasant it can be to have some cheese, milk, yogurt, or other dairy products in a meal.

Even a surprisingly small amount can lead to ongoing digestive problems, unpleasant bloating, gas, and other issues.

Well, you may have heard that humans are relatively unique in that we're one of the only species that can enjoy dairy after childhood. It should be no surprise, then, to find that most cats are lactose intolerant.

But then, why do cats like milk and dairy?

“The parts of the diary product that your cat has interest for are fat and protein. They can smell the fat and protein in dairy products and will be attracted by it. There can be a lot of both fat and protein in milk, cheese and yoghurt.” | Charlottesville Cat Care Clinic

Unfortunately, that stereotype of giving a stray cat a saucer of milk or whipped cream does a lot more harm than good.

It's not good for them, and while it won't kill them, it won't be pleasant for them or whoever has to clean up after them. Not to mention that giving your cat milk can cause an unbalanced diet and lead weight gain.

A tiny bite of cheese now and then is usually well tolerated, but anything more than that is begging for trouble.

11: Grapes

Grapes (and raisins, which are just dehydrated grapes) are a somewhat confusing fruit.

Unlike other foods, which have well known compounds that cause toxicity, grapes are a bit of a mystery. They also tend to be associated as just bad for dogs as most cats aren’t attracted to them.

“There are dogs who have had issues after only a few grapes and some who do not have any issues until they eat a whole bag of them. Because the mechanism of toxicity is unknown, the best answer is no grapes for either your cats or your dogs.” - Embrace Pet Insurance Director of Claims Jenna Mahan

Since science hasn't yet figured out what the compound cause problems such as sudden kidney failure, most veterinarians recommend to keep them away from both cats and dogs.

Lethargy and seizures are common symptoms seen in dogs that have consumed grapes, so head straight to the vet if your kitty sampled some grapes and exhibit these symptoms.

12: Eggs

Let me begin this section by saying well cooked eggs, without added seasonings are perfectly safe for cats. They are a good source of protein and are often seen as an ingredient in wet cat food.

Raw eggs on the other hand are not safe for cats. Because chickens can carry salmonella their uncooked eggs are also a risk for spreading the bacteria.

Need another reason not to feed your cat raw eggs? If they get salmonella, they can pass it on to you!

So keep in mind, if your cat is a counter surfer, like some of mine were, make sure to never leave anything with raw eggs unattended, including the empty shells.

13-14: Onions and Garlic

I don’t know about you, but I love to cook with both onions are garlic. They bring so much delicious flavor to foods.

Those delicious smells that waft from the kitchen can also be appealing to your fur baby. The thing is both onions are garlic are toxic to cats.

Onions and garlic are both alliums, along with hundreds of other species. Other alliums include chives, shallots, leeks, and scallions (and really, anything with that oniony smell to it). There are also hundreds of inedible ornamental alliums grown as flowers.

Unfortunately, all of these are bad for your fur baby. In addition to digestive troubles, alliums can cause damage to red blood cells and lead to anemia.

“Allium spp can cause Heinz body formation, methemoglobinemia, agglutination, and hemoglobinuria. Cats are more sensitive to Allium toxicosis than dogs. In addition to anemia, small animals may exhibit GI signs, including anorexia, vomiting, and diarrhea. The anorexia often occurs 1 day before the hemolysis.” | Malinda E. Wallis, BS, CVT | ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center

Some are worse than others, too; garlic is 3 to 5 times more toxic than onions for a cat.

Signs of garlic or onion toxicity:

• Vomiting
• Lethargy
• Increased heart rate
• Blood in urine

15-17: Almonds, Pecans, and Walnuts

Nuts, in general, are bad for cats. Some, like macadamia nuts, cause problems similar to those caused by grapes (and are similarly not understood by veterinary science as of yet).

Others, like almonds and walnuts, are just high in natural fats and oils. These fats and oils aren't really necessary to your cat's health and can cause digestive problems, as well as pancreatitis, a very painful condition.

18: Xylitol

Everything else on this list is a food, so what is this chemical doing here? Well, xylitol is a sugar alcohol, which should already tell you a lot of what you need to know… or should it?

A "sugar alcohol" isn't really an alcohol and doesn't work in the same way. Instead, it's a lot more like sugar! Xylitol is one of the most common "healthy" sugar substitutes found in most sugar-free foods these days.

There is firm evidence that xylitol is wildly toxic to dogs (and is a big reason why peanut butter treats for dogs need to be vetted first), but there is some debate on whether or not it’s also toxic for cats.

Here's what the FDA says about xylitol for pets in general:

Some food and drink items that you consider tasty treats may be dangerous for your pet. As tempting as it might be to share your food or drink with your four-legged friend, please resist! Some of the more hazardous edible items include:… Xylitol (a sweetener found in products such as some sugar-free chewing gum, sugar-free candy, cough syrup, mouthwash, and toothpaste)” | U.S Food and Drug Administration

What's not clear is whether the pet group includes cats as well.

A study published in the National Library of Medicine about the effects of xylitol in cats, observed no effects of toxicity in cats.

“Xylitol is commonly used as sugar substitute in households. While it has numerous beneficial effects on human health, it is highly toxic to dogs. The goal of this study was to examine whether xylitol has similar deleterious effects, such as hypo glycaemia and acute hepatic failure, on cats…Based on our results, xylitol did not induce toxic effects on cats.”

There are a number of reasons for the debate, many cats aren’t interested in consuming products that typically contain xylitol, so there isn’t much documented to show their response.

Because xylitol causes drastic blood sugar level drops in dogs and even liver failure, I’ve added it to this list as a precaution. I would keep products containing xylitol away from diabetic kitties and older cats that have other health issues.

Until we know more about how cats are affected, it’s best to err on the side of caution.

19: Tomato Stems and Plants

Okay, so this one isn't quite like the rest on this list, but it's still something you might have around the house. Tomatoes, when ripe, are perfectly fine for your fur baby. The leaves, stems, and rest of the plant, as well as unripe tomatoes, are dangerous, though.

Tomato is a kind of nightshade, which is a common toxic plant that was even used as a poison in centuries past.

“Ingestion of the greenery, flowers, and green fruit can cause clinical problems in dogs and cats…Clinical signs include gastrointestinal (GI) upset, cardiac effects, and central nervous system signs (e.g., ataxia, muscle weakness, tremors, seizures), resulting from cholinesterase inhibition.” - Malinda E. Wallis, BS, CVT | ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center

Fun fact: potatoes, eggplants, and tobacco are all nightshades as well!

So, if you like to grow your own fruits and veggies, but also have a kitty that likes to chew on plants, tomatoes should be kept off limits.

20: Salty Meats and Treats

Cats may need meat in their diet but feeding them bacon or salami is likely going to be a problem. It's not the meat itself that's the problem here; it's the preservative: salt. Salt is necessary in small amounts for cats, dogs, and people, but in large amounts, it can cause a lot of problems.

Unfortunately, salt is a very effective preservative and flavor enhancer, so it's in just about everything, which is why so many people have blood pressure issues. Cats, being smaller and more sensitive, can develop hypernatremia from an excess of salt.

“Large amounts of salt can produce excessive thirst and urination, or even sodium ion poisoning in pets…As such, we encourage you to avoid feeding salt-heavy snacks like potato chips, pretzels, and salted popcorn to your pets.” - ASPCA

Symptoms of hypernatremia:

• Increased thirst
• Vomiting
• Decreased appetite
• Diarrhea
• Seizures

21: Canned Tuna

Tuna is alright for cats as a treat, but you should avoid making it a core element of your cat's diet. There are two reasons for this.

The first is that canned tuna isn't nutritionally complete for a cat. It doesn't have all of the vitamins, minerals, and nutrients necessary to keep your cat healthy. They need a more varied diet to make sure they get everything necessary to nourish their entire body.

The second is that there's a lot of mercury found in fish, particularly tuna, so if your cat over-eats tuna, they can end up with mercury poisoning. People can get this too, but again, you need a lot more tuna to get that big a dose.

“Commercial fish food products such as tuna have been associated with chronic poisoning in humans and cats.” – Merck Veterinary Manual

Signs of mercury poisoning:

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Tremors

22-25: Raw Chicken, Beef, Pork, and Fish

Raw meats of any kind may seem like an odd inclusion on this list. After all, wouldn't cats in the wild eat raw meat all the time? Well, sure, cats in the wild also get sick and even die from the things they eat all the time. We like to take better care of our fur babies than that, right?

The problem here is microbes. Bacteria like e.coli and salmonella, as well as various parasites, can all linger on the surface of raw meats. Cross-contamination is also an issue.

Any of these diseases can prove devastating to your feline friend, so it's usually better to cook meat before giving it to them.

Similarly, if you buy a raw meat diet, make sure it's produced in a certified environment. Making it yourself, unless done with extreme care, can be dangerous.

Symptoms of Food-Caused Problems

As you’ve noted from the signs listed above, the most common issues from food are digestive. Your poor kitty's digestive system will want to get rid of whatever is causing them a problem ASAP, with predictable results.

Other symptoms can include pain, gas, coughing, confusion, breathing problems, seizures, tremors, and weakness.

If you see your cat struggling with any of these, it's probably a good idea to rush them to the vet to make sure it's not going to get worse. Often, with fluids and a bit of monitoring, they'll end up fine.

However, you need to be careful to make sure they don't consume the offending food again in the future.

Luckily, most food issues can be resolved within a couple of hours, and monitoring at the vet is mostly a precaution.

If you suspect your fur baby has eaten something dangerous, first call your vet. If they tell you to just keep an eye on them, you will probably be fine with some monitoring. Otherwise, you may want to rush them to the emergency vet, particularly if their symptoms indicate something worse than digestive troubles, like seizures or kidney/liver failure.

If you can't get through to your vet, you can also try:

• Pet Poison Helpline, 855-764-7661, www.petpoisonhelpline.com

• ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, 888-426-4435, www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control

They'll help advise you on what, if anything, you should do and what your next steps should be.

What's your favorite treat to give to your fur baby? Hopefully, it's not something on this list! I'd love to hear about your furry friends and their favorite snacks, so be sure to leave your stories in the comments section down below!

It's a behavior you might have only personally experienced if you live somewhere where winters get bitterly cold, and the bone-deep chill isn't something you can physiologically shrug off the way you can a little chill breeze after climbing out of the pool.

Never mind experiencing it yourself; what about your dog?

Chattering teeth is a stereotypical behavior in reaction to the cold, but if your dog is chattering their teeth, does it really just mean they're cold?

That fur coat of theirs should keep them warmer (at least if they have one; shorthairs are subject to more temperature variation), but that doesn't mean they can't get chilled.

The truth is, while true teeth chattering in humans is relatively rare outside of the cold, it's quite a bit more common in dogs!

It's also not just because of the cold, though that can be a cause on a particularly cold dog walk.

So the question is, what causes chattering teeth in dogs besides being cold?

What is Chattering, Anyway?

The word "chattering" is a description of a particular behavior. Specifically, it's a rapid or incessant, repetitious, often nonsensical sound.

Birds chatter out their clicks and calls, people chatter their teeth in the cold, and other animals make chattering noises, either as communication or simply in reaction to something.

If you've ever wandered down the road and had a squirrel make noises at you, that's chattering.

While chattering can be noisy and potentially irritating, if your dog is chattering, you may wonder: Is it painful? Is it dangerous? Is chattering cause for concern?

To reach the answer, you have to know why it happens.

To be frank, there are so many potential causes that can make your dog’s teeth chatter that it can be difficult to narrow down the options and uncover what could be the culprit.

I broke each potential cause into meaningful categories to easily digest. But as with everything related to your dog’s health, context is very important.

Paying attention to your dog’s behavior around the time of the teeth chattering will provide you with clues as to what’s really causing it.

Read on to learn about the most common causes for chattering teeth and see if you can diagnose what's going on.

Physical Causes for Teeth Chattering in Dogs

Physical or physiological reasons for teeth chattering in dogs come down to two things.

Cold

The first is, as mentioned above, the cold. Of course when it's cold out, your dog might get a bit of a chill, and they may shiver.

Chattering is a related behavior, another involuntary micro-motion the body does to help generate a bit of warmth.

Cold affects different dogs in different ways and it doesn’t just have to be when they are outside in winter weather.

Think about drafts in your house, does cold air sneak in through a door or window that your pup sleeps by? Could there be a draft from the ice-cold AC unit?

Smaller dogs have less meat on their bones and less warmth in their cores, so Chihuahuas, Dachshunds, and other smaller dogs (especially those with shorter, thinner fur coats) are much more susceptible to the cold.

This is one of the reasons why, unless extremely necessary and recommended by a vet, you shouldn't shave your dog's fur coat; they need it!

Even larger dogs can get chilled and chatter, though. Only a few breeds, like huskies and mastiffs, are built for the cold. Even they, as much as they love it, can be vulnerable to the cold, especially if it's extremely cold outside.

It's also important to remember that dogs run hot compared to people. The average human body temperature, as you likely well know, is 98.6 degrees.

Dogs generally run hotter, with an average body temperature between 101 and 102.5 degrees. That couple of degrees can make a lot of difference in how cold an environment feels to them!

The Flehmen Response

The second physiological reason a dog's teeth might chatter is actually related to one of their strongest features: their sense of smell. Dogs have a special organ deep in their nasal cavities called the vomeronasal organ.

It's a funky little organ that combines the senses of smell and taste into a unique dog-specific (Although other animals such as cats have it too. God bless them for such unique senses!) they use to do all those cool scent tricks they know.

That sense – tmell? smaste? – or whatever you'd like to call it, is a powerful sense, and strong odors (even those we humans can't smell) can cause physiological reactions.

Think about how if you were to bite into a lemon wedge, and how that sheer sour explosion would make your face pucker up. That's the kind of reaction we're talking about here.

When your dog is smelling something, particularly something intense that they want to get more of, their teeth might chatter as a side effect of putting that whole olfactory system to work.

“Dog chatters his teeth after intently smelling something (usually urine): often called the flehmen response, this is an effort to direct chemical signals from what was smelled to the vomeronasal organ in the roof of his mouth…Often seen if a dog encounters the urine from a female dog in estrus.” - Penn Vet University of Pennsylvania

Check out this 12-second Video of a Dog’s Flehmen Response

Luckily, other than the cold, these aren't necessarily causes for concern.

Your pup can be warmed up fairly easily, and if all they're doing is smelling something chatterlicious, chattering is perfectly fine.

Chatterlicious: Something with such a great smell that makes your dog chatter his/her teeth. Did I just coin another new term in dog wellness?

Read More Dog Wellness Guides

• What Is Dog Recall Training and How Do You Start?
• How to Potty Train a Puppy Quickly: The Ultimate Guide
• Dog-Friendly Probiotics: Are Human Probiotics Safe for Dogs?
• 8 Quick Tricks That You Can Teach Your Puppy
• Emergency Care: What to Do If Your Dog Gets Stung by a Bee
• 6 Reasons Your Dog Barks at Night (And What To Do)

Behavioral Causes for Teeth Chattering in Dogs

When you get right down to it, a lot of behaviors in dogs are, well, just that: they're behaviors.

They can be actions trained into them intentionally or accidentally, like begging for food or reacting to sounds in a specific way.

Or, they can be inherent behaviors that get triggered upon certain sorts of stimuli. For example, strong or unusual emotions.

Anxiety, Stress, or Fear

One of the biggest behavioral reasons dogs chatter their teeth is as an expression of anxiety, stress, or fear.

“Extreme anxiety and stress can potentially cause teeth chattering and shaking in dogs. While this is not necessarily a medical emergency, prolonged stress or anxiety can cause medical problems, and it can also severely affect a dog’s quality of life.” - Little Silver Animal Hospital

This one is fairly easy to diagnose as it’s not accompanied by other symptoms of pain and is generally noticed during stressful situations like going to the vet.

You’ll likely see other behaviors, like body language with lowered appearance and a tucked in tail. Keep in mind that dogs react to stress and fear in different ways, so not all of them will chatter their teeth.

Also, younger (and even older) dogs in social situations with other dogs might chatter their teeth for similar reasons.

Read More Dog Wellness Guides

• How to Keep Dog Paws from Getting Burnt on Hot Pavement
• How to Establish an Effective Dog Crate Training Routine
• A Dog Owner's Guide to Essential Oils: 20+ Safe Options
• Tips: How to Stop Dog Aggression Against Other Dogs
• FAQ: Is It Ever “Too Late” to Socialize an Adult Dog?

If your dog has anxiety about meeting other dogs or is usually a submissive pup in the pecking order, it's possible that they'll feel some fear or anxiety when they're exposed to unfamiliar dogs, and that can express itself as chattering teeth.

Excitement

A similar reason is excitement. If you've ever been so excited that you shake, bounce, or feel wired, well, the same thing can happen to hyperactive dogs.

If your pup pal chatters their teeth when you mention treats or going for a walk to the park, it's probably because they are filled excitement!

And, of course, just like fear and stress, excitement is pretty obvious. It's fairly unlikely that chattering teeth is the only sign that your dog is excited. If nothing else, that tail is probably going a mile a minute too!

The good news here is that, like the physical reasons for chattering teeth, these aren't usually a cause for serious concern.

You may want to figure out if they're stressed or afraid, but it's more of a "fix the circumstances" kind of problem or an "avoid the mean dog" situation, not a trip to the vet.

Now, as noted above, prolonged stress or anxiety can cause medical problems, and it can also severely affect a dog’s quality of life. Many studies today support the use of CBD for dogs to help manage and reduce situational anxiety.

Health-Related Causes of Teeth Chattering in Dogs

The third category, and the more serious of the three, is health-related issues. Health issues involve a variety of medical conditions, some of which can be serious enough to warrant a trip to the vet.

Pain

The first reason is simply tooth pain. Periodontal disease, tooth disease, gum disease, and other forms of pain in the mouth can cause reactions.

“Even if your dog’s teeth look pearly white and clean, studies show that 80-90% of dogs over the age of 3 have some component of periodontal disease.” - Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine

Anything from a cavity to an abscess to a broken tooth can cause chattering teeth. This can be as a soothing behavior, a reaction to pain, or a sensitivity to cold.

If you notice teeth chattering when your furry friend is drinking water, eating, or getting a treat, it's possible that they're having some kind of reaction to tooth pain.

They may also chatter when panting, as the cold air triggers tooth sensitivity and pain. Keep an eye out for other oral health symptoms, like inflamed or bleeding gums, difficulty eating, new or increased drooling, or a reluctance to be touched.

Canine Epilepsy

Another medical issue that can cause chattering teeth is actually canine epilepsy.

While popular culture likes to depict epilepsy as an all-or-nothing, full-shaking-on-the-ground seizure disorder, it actually has a wide range of different possible symptoms.

Some dogs (and people) can just lock up, their brain essentially going on standby mode until it can recover. Others have shaking manifest in a specific limb, including the jaw.

This kind of teeth chattering is tricky to identify because you need to rule out other causes or identify other symptoms that might be harder to notice. Keep an eye out for otherwise-random muscle twitches, spasms, and collapses.

If you have a particular kind of dog (small breeds, usually white), teeth chattering can be a sign of something known as "shaker syndrome," this disease is degenerative and can cause full-body tremors, including teeth chattering.

Depending on your breed, your vet should warn you of the potential for this disease and what to watch out for.

Age

Another common health-related reason for teeth chattering is simply age. As dogs get older, their bodies start to accrue issues, and they can be anything from arthritis to dementia to chattering teeth.

It's just something that can happen to older dogs. On the plus side, as long as it doesn't interfere with their ability to eat and drink, it's not really a cause for immediate concern.

How Concerning is Teeth Chattering in Dogs?

If your fur baby is chattering their teeth, how concerned should you be? Is it dangerous behavior, a sign of something worrisome, or just a harmless quirk of your particular pup?

The truth is, it depends a lot on the situation and any other symptoms that might accompany the chattering.

As with any unexpected or unexplained behavior, if your fur baby is chattering their teeth, take a look for symptoms of other issues.

Are they eating and drinking fine? Are they still able to go to the bathroom effectively, and is the consistency acceptable? Are they sullen or bright and happy?

Look, as well, for how frequently, when, and where it happens. It could be a reaction to something nearby, a reaction to another dog, or a reaction to loud noises or stressful situations.

In these cases, the best solution is often to remove the dog from the situation and bring them someplace where you can calm their anxiety.

Here are some potential "if" scenarios that can help you determine whether you should be concerned and take further action.

• If teeth chattering is a reaction to happiness and excitement, it's harmless.
• If it's a reaction to stress or fear, it's also relatively harmless, at least in terms of their health. Obviously, you want to minimize how much stress and anxiety you put them under, but sometimes it's unavoidable.
• If you suspect the chattering teeth is temperature related, look for solutions to warm up your pup, such as a dog bed or blanket that reflects their body heat. You should also check for drafts in your home during colder months and finally, consider a doggy sweater to warm up your baby.
• If your fur baby chatters when they're stressed, you might be able to give them a chew toy or a comfort plush to keep in their mouth. In addition to giving them a calming item, it can help prevent chattering from being irritating or hurting their teeth.
• If you suspect your pup suffers from situational anxiety induced teeth chattering you may want to consider a natural option such as CBD oil for dogs.
• If you’ve ruled out the more benign causes or just aren’t sure what’s causing your pup to chatter their teeth, start to document any other symptoms you see and instances where the chattering is occurring.
• If you observe drooling, depressed personality, muscle spasms, pain reactions; any of these can be an indication that something more is going on. In these cases, you should call your vet and schedule an appointment to get your pup looked at.

They may need medication to help control whatever is happening, or even something like oral surgery and antibiotics to fix the problem.

When you get right down to it, sometimes dogs chatter their teeth for no obvious reason. It's one of the more mysterious behaviors a dog can exhibit, and unless there's a clear correlation between the behavior and some stimulus or additional behavior, it might just be one of their many adorable quirks.

Have you ever had a dog with mysteriously chattering teeth? If so, what did you do about it? What did the cause end up being? I'm curious about what sorts of experiences you may have had, and I'm sure other readers are, as well! So, tell us your story in the comments below. I'd absolutely love to hear it!

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