The things we eat as people aren't always the things our canine companions can eat. Just like how there are plenty of foods that are toxic to cats, there are human foods our dogs shouldn't eat either. What should you keep off the menu to avoid giving your pooch a hard time?

Can Dogs Eat Fruit?

First, a simple question: can dogs eat fruit at all? Fortunately, the answer is yes. While dogs aren't obligate carnivores like cats, they do have some dietary restrictions, largely related to certain chemicals that can give them a bad time.

Dogs can enjoy fruits as treats. Fruits like apples, blueberries, pears, strawberries, watermelon, mango, and others are all good options. My guide (linked right there) can give you some great ideas on which fruits to use, and how to use them.

What Makes a Fruit Bad for Your Dog?

Some fruits are going to be bad for your dog, but why are they bad? Are they full of chemicals that are fine for humans but toxic to dogs? Are they going to trigger an allergic reaction?

Generally, there are three main reasons that can disqualify a fruit from being part of your dog's diet.

The first reason is sugar. A lot of fruits are considered fairly healthy, but they're full of natural sugars. Natural fructose is better for you (and your dog) than artificial sugars, and it's way better than chemical sweeteners like xylitol, which can be toxic to your dog. But, it's still a lot of sugar, which can cause problems with obesity and diabetes, especially in older dogs.

The second reason is something that could choke your dog. Fruits that have large seeds or pits can be obstructions and, depending on the size of your dog, can block their airway or their bowels. Both of these can be very dangerous and painful to your pup.

On that note, it's a good idea for any canine caregiver to know how to help a choking dog because time is of the essence. Check out this guide to the canine Heimlich Maneuver to learn more.

Some of these fruits are fine if you prepare them right, while others might have other reasons to avoid them as well. I'll get to that in the actual list.

The third reason is toxicity. Some fruits do, in fact, have toxic compounds in them. At best, these can cause bowel upset or vomiting. At worst, they can become a life-threatening medical issue. It's better to avoid them entirely.

Now, let's go through the list.

Fruits a Dog Shouldn't Have Because of Toxic Ingredients

First, let's talk about the fruits that your dog absolutely shouldn't have. Any fruit with toxic compounds in it should be avoided entirely.

Avocados

Avocados are often thought of as vegetables, but they're actually fruits. They also fit both the toxicity and the obstruction points because the pit of the avocado is tough and can be a choking hazard.

The most important part, though, is that avocado skins, pits, and leaves all contain a compound called persin. While persin generally won't kill a dog unless it's very small and they eat a lot of it, it's going to cause gastrointestinal distress, including vomiting and diarrhea. That, combined with the high-fat flesh of the avocado, makes for a bad time for everyone.

Persin can also cause pancreatitis if consumed in sufficient amounts or over a long term.

Note that you can still use products like dog fur conditioners that include avocado oil; these ingredients have been refined to remove anything toxic. Since avocado oil is a great way to add luster and shine to your dog's coat, many people still use the fruit, even if it's not for eating.

Cherries

Cherries are a fruit that really hits all three of the reasons why a dog shouldn't have them.

They're pretty sweet and sugary, especially sweet cherries (tart cherries are a little less so, though they do still have a lot of sugar in them.)

They have pits. Those pits aren't going to bother a larger breed, but small dogs might choke on them.

Most importantly, though, they contain cyanide in the pits.

If you carefully pit cherries and give them to your dog in moderation, it's probably fine that they have one or two here or there. If you have a cherry tree, though, make sure your dog can't go to town on fallen fruit. The same goes if you eat cherries; make sure your pup can't fish the pits out of the trash.

It's also a good idea to learn the signs of cyanide poisoning. Dilated pupils, difficulty breathing, and red gums can all be signs.

Grapes

One of the worst fruits for dogs, grapes of all sorts are bad for our canine friends. Grapes (and raisins) are so toxic to dogs that they can cause sudden kidney failure in surprisingly small quantities. Just keep them away from your dog at all costs.

This is a good place to discuss the symptoms of poisoning in dogs. If you're worried that your dog might be poisoned or ate something they shouldn't that could hurt them, look for symptoms like:

• Bowel issues, including constipation and diarrhea.

• Lethargy and delayed responses.

• Standing with their back hunched.

• Twitching or seizures.

• Vomiting, drooling, or foaming at the mouth.

These symptoms indicate an emergency, and you should rush your pup to the emergency vet ASAP to get treatment before their organs shut down. Your vet will administer treatment like activated charcoal, a medication to induce vomiting, and scans or even surgery to address what's wrong. Obviously, it's better to keep the grapes (and other toxic fruits) out of reach.

Green Tomatoes

Tomatoes are part of the same overall plant family as nightshade, so it's not really a surprise that it can be toxic to some animals.

Fully ripe tomatoes are fine for dogs, but under-ripe or green tomatoes, as well as the green parts of the plant, all contain a chemical called solanine. That chemical is only mildly toxic, so your dog would probably have to eat a whole tomato plant or more to get really sick over it, but it's still better to avoid it, wouldn't you say?

Plums

Plums are another fruit where the pit contains cyanide and can be a choking hazard. Basically, any stone fruit is going to have these issues since they're all similar.

The flesh is fine, but the pits are very dangerous, so you have to be careful with how you dispose of them.

Raspberries

Raspberries are right on the fence. They're a healthy fruit and they're undeniably delicious, but they do contain a very small amount of xylitol.

One or two isn't going to be enough to hurt a dog unless they're very, very small or are very sensitive, but a whole package of raspberries – or a dog left to their own devices next to berry bushes – can cause problems quite quickly.

Fruits a Dog Shouldn't Have Because of Obstructive Elements

The second group is fruits that should either be avoided or be prepared properly if you want to give them to your dog. That's because they contain something, like a pit, a core, or seeds, that can block airways or obstruct bowels if your dog swallows them. Avocados, already listed above, fall into this group because of the pit as well.

Peaches

Peaches are a good example of a fruit that can be fine in moderation for dogs, but can also be very high in sugar, and the pit is dangerous.

Not only is the pit capable of blocking an airway, but it also contains a chemical called amygdalin, which, when digested, creates cyanide. So, why didn't I list it in the toxic section? The edible part of the fruit is fine.

Oranges

Oranges aren't bad for your dog, but vets generally recommend leaving off the skin and removing the seeds when possible. By the time you're done doing that, it's practically not worth it for a treat anymore, right?

That said, some dogs don't like citrus at all because the citrus oils are very strongly scented, and your pup's sensitive nose might be irritated at having them close. If you ever peel an orange and notice your pup avoids you, that's probably why.

Other citrus all fall into this category as well. Lemons, limes, grapefruits, pomelos, mandarins, citrons, tangerines… the list goes on. Relatedly, did you know that all citrus we enjoy today are cross-breeds and hybrids between three original citrus plants? Mandarins, Pomelos, and Citrons are the three originals; everything else is some manner of derived hybrid between them.

Persimmons

Persimmons are a less common fruit, but the seeds they contain can be obstructive to your dog's bowels. They aren't super toxic, which is why they aren't listed in the toxic list, though they do contain compounds that can cause digestive upset.

Under-ripe persimmons are also very astringent and can also cause digestive upset. The flesh of the ripe fruit is fine in moderation, though.

Fruits a Dog Shouldn't Have Because of Excessive Sugar

Finally, let's talk about some fruits you should consider avoiding. These aren't necessarily dangerous for your dog, but they are high in sugar. That means if they have diabetes, or you're worried about obesity or them developing diabetes down the line, it's better to avoid them. They can be given in moderation, though; a single bite here and there, as a high-value treat, can be just fine.

Bananas

Bananas are emblematic of this entire category. They're very sweet and have a ton of sugar in them when they're ripe, but they also have a lot of healthy minerals and vitamins that your dog will enjoy.

A slice of banana tossed to your pup with you eating one yourself is fine, but they shouldn't be part of their primary diet.

Canned Fruits

I'm not specifying one particular fruit here. Many canned fruits are canned with added sugar or even syrup, and that's a huge hit of sugar your dog doesn't need. Obviously, if the canned fruit is one with another issue, you have twice the reason to avoid it.

Note that even fruits canned in water or juice still tend to have added sugar to them. Syrup is worse, but juice isn't always better.

Dangerous Fruits for Dogs FAQ

As usual, let's wrap things up with a few common questions.

What should I do if my dog ate a bad fruit?

This depends on the fruit. Grapes? Take them to the vet ASAP. Other fruits? Keep an eye on them. If they exhibit the symptoms of poisoning, take them to the vet. Otherwise, just keep an eye out for obstructions and be prepared for a messy bathroom break.

Fruits that are high in sugar are only bad for weight and diabetes reasons, so if your dog is otherwise healthy, a bit of over-indulgence won't hurt them. Just don't make it a regular thing.

How can I get rid of pits and seeds?

Many people recommend a dog-proof trash can for things you really don't want your dog to get into. I've known some very clever dogs that find their way into these, though, so make sure whatever you get can resist the cleverest pupper around.

Alternatively, make sure to store the waste out of their reach until you can get rid of it.

What is the worst fruit for dogs?

Undoubtedly, grapes. It's actually kind of crazy that we don't even know which compounds in grapes are the toxic ones, but we know that all kinds of grapes, even in small amounts, can lead to very sudden kidney failure and even death.

If your dog even eats just one grape, you should be extremely vigilant for signs of poisoning and call your vet ASAP.

As always, if you have any non-medically-related questions, I'm always more than happy to help however I can! Just leave me a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

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Some commercial cat foods are full of filler. Some include sub-par ingredients that might not be bad right now but can be bad in the long term, especially if contaminants build up in your cat's system. Sometimes, they just include allergens, and your cat has a sensitive stomach and can't handle them.

There are plenty of reasons to consider making DIY, homemade cat food. But there's also a lot to consider. Let's talk about it!

Should You Make DIY Cat Food?

The first question that might come to mind is whether or not you should even consider making homemade cat food.

In my opinion, yes! There are a few good reasons to do it.

You know everything that goes into your cat's food when you make it yourself.

This is possibly the biggest reason; you know everything that goes into a recipe you make. With commercial cat foods, you often see ingredients listed that you might not know what they are or you might not like. Things like:

• Poultry by-product meal

• Corn gluten meal

• Soybean meal

• Dried bifidobacterium animalis fermentation product

• Natural flavors

Since the FDA doesn't regulate pet foods as much as it regulates human foods – and we already have a lot of shortcuts and tricky information in our own food – it can be very difficult to read the ingredients on a pet food label and understand what's truly in the food.

To be clear, most of the time, the ingredients are fine for your cat. It might not be the best possible food, but it's not likely to actively hurt them. The trouble is, you can't necessarily tell that, and there seems to be a scandal every year or two about pet food hurting pets.

You can customize their food if they have allergies or sensitive stomachs.

This is a big one. Unlike human food, where allergens need to be disclosed, including if it was produced in a facility that also handles allergens, you don't get that kind of quality assurance with cat foods.

If your cat has an allergy to a given ingredient, it can be hard to tell if a commercial cat food has that ingredient in it. Even if it doesn't, if it's made in the same facility as a food that does, it can end up cross-contaminated, and there's no way you can tell until your fur baby starts showing signs of digestive distress.

When you DIY some homemade cat food, you know everything that goes into it and everything that doesn't.

You can change the recipe when your cat gets tired of it.

Raise your hand if your cat is a picky eater and turns their nose up at food on a regular basis, even food they've enjoyed in the past.

Everyone? Alright, hands down.

Most cats are at least somewhat picky eaters, and even if they aren't actively dismissive of the food you give them, there's a good chance they'll just want to change things up from time to time. When you buy normal cat food in bulk, that's pretty hard; what are you going to do with the extra 20 lbs. of kibble if they won't touch it anymore?

When you make their food, it's easy enough to mix up the main protein or a couple of key ingredients to get something new for them to enjoy. You also don't need to make huge batches and let some of it go bad, and if they decide mid-batch they don't care for it, you can freeze it for later.

You can usually make cat food cheaper than buying their food.

Another benefit to making your own cat food is that it ends up being cheaper at the end of the day. Depending on the kind of food you're buying for your cat, it can cost anywhere from $1.50 to $7 per day. When you make your own, the cost of the ingredients will work out to be less than $1.50 per day, almost no matter what you want to do.

Obviously, this can vary depending on how you source your ingredients. People with local butchers or with lower costs for certain ingredients locally can come out further ahead.

People who have trouble sourcing key ingredients might be more comparable to cheaper commercial cat foods. In those cases, the difference in quality is important enough to balance the scales.

It does take time to make your own cat food, but honestly, less than you might think.

You can also often do it on the side while you're making food for yourself, so you don't need to spend a dedicated chunk of time making your cat's food. Even then, it's still fine for most people.

If all of that hasn't convinced you to start making DIY cat food, I don't know what will.

What Does DIY Cat Food Need to Include?

Cats are obligate carnivores, but that doesn't mean you can just grind up some chicken breasts and call it good enough. They still need enough nutrition, including vitamins, minerals, fiber, and other ingredients, which means you need a good list of what to include.

You'll want to include:

• A primary protein. Most people start with chicken, but a variety of different primary proteins can work. Pork, eggs, beef, and even more exotic meats like duck, quail, and others are all fine.

• Supplements. Often, the meat you choose won't have all of the nutrients your cat needs. Cats evolved to catch and eat whole prey like birds and mice, including things like bones, organs, and blood. You'll need to replace those with added supplements like taurine, fish oil, and omega-3s.

• Fiber. You don't need a lot of fiber for homemade cat food, but you should have some. A good option is barley powder, which is relatively cheap and serves as a good filler when used in moderation.

Some people recommend grinding up the bones of poultry. Your cat can benefit from the calcium and other nutrients in the bones, but you need to make sure not to cook them so they don't turn sharp and brittle.

Should you cook the protein? That's actually up to you and your cat. Some cats prefer cooked meat, while others like it raw. As long as you cook it without spices, you're fine.

Overcooking the meat can destroy some of the nutrients in it and make it less pleasant for your furry friend to eat, so most people start with raw meat. That said, raw meat does have the potential for bacterial contamination, so keep an eye out for signs of infection after starting a homemade raw cat food diet.

What Should You Leave Out of DIY Cat Food?

One of the benefits of making cat food at home is that it's easy to make a fairly simple recipe. There are a lot of things you generally want to leave out of the food you make, though.

First of all, make sure you avoid any of the human food ingredients that are toxic or bad for cats. I have a whole post about it here, but to replicate the list:

• Alcohols

• Yeasts

• Chocolate

• Coffee and Tea

• Citrus Fruits

• Coconut

• Dairy Products

• Grapes

• Eggs

• Alliums like Onions and Garlic

• Nuts

• Xylitol

• Tomatoes

• Salt

You also want to avoid fillers in excess. A little bit of fiber filler and carbohydrates are fine, but too much will end up hurting your cat in the long term, and that's what you're trying to avoid in the first place.

What about oils? Oils are a good way to get some healthy fats, vitamins, and supplemental nutrients into cat food, but you need to use them in moderation and only use the right kinds of oils. Fish oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, and flaxseed oil are fine, but don't use too much.

Should You Change DIY Cat Food Recipes?

I already mentioned this a little bit above, but there's a pretty good chance that your cat, even if they initially love the DIY cat food recipe you make, is going to get tired of it over time.

I generally recommend only making 1-2 weeks' worth of food at a time so that if they start to get tired of it, you don't have a lot of wasted food they won't eat.

You can change the recipe from time to time, so long as you're as close to nutritionally complete with each recipe as you can be.

What's a Good Recipe for DIY Cat Food?

There are as many recipes for DIY cat food as there are people making them.

Rather than reproduce any here, here are a few links to recipes you can read up on and decide if you want to use them:

• Beef and Barley Cat Food from Cats Magazine

• 5 Vet-Approved Homemade Cat Foods from Cats.com

• Two Options for Homemade Cat Food from Know Better Pet Food

As you can see, they're all pretty simple and don't require a lot of time, equipment, or expensive ingredients. It's easy enough to change them up to suit your fur baby's needs, too.

DIY Cat Food FAQ

Now, let's cover a few points I didn't have space for in the main post, as well as some questions I've been asked about DIY cat foods.

Is DIY cat food cheaper?

Almost always, yes, but various factors can cause the numbers to not quite line up.

If you're going for gourmet, organic meats and high-tier supplements to make your DIY cat food, it's going to be comparatively more expensive than other kinds of homemade cat food recipes. It can be comparable in expense to the cheaper or even mid-range cat foods you would buy at the store.

On the other hand, if you're normally feeding your cat expensive organic food because they have nutritional sensitivities or other issues, making your own food will pretty much always be cheaper.

If cost is your primary concern, consider keeping track of the price of ingredients and doing the math for yourself. It will probably work out in favor of homemade cat food!

Is DIY cat food better for cats?

If you make it right, yes!

This is one of the biggest issues, though.

Many commercial cat foods are engineered to be nutritionally complete, but they may also have excessive amounts of some nutrients or too much filler.

They might also just not be high quality. A lot of these pet foods tend to use scraps and refuse from other meat processing, so the starting ingredients aren't great, and the added nutrients are of lower quality to avoid being too expensive.

While they keep your cat fed, they might not keep your cat healthy. It's why obesity, kidney issues, and other problems can be common in our furry friends.

When you make your cat food at home, you have full control over the ingredients and can make it as high quality as you want. As long as you make sure you're giving them all of the nutrients they need, you'll be good. I recommend running your recipe by your vet to make sure it has everything your fur baby needs.

Should DIY cat food be different for cats of different ages?

Yes!

Kittens, adult cats, and senior cats all need different nutrition to stay healthy. Kittens need more calories and a different balance of nutrients to stay healthy and grow big and strong. Meanwhile, senior cats are more likely to have health issues that need a dietary adjustment.

The post above is pretty much entirely focused on otherwise healthy (or slightly obese) adult cats. Make sure to talk to your vet about homemade food for kittens or for senior cats with different health needs to guarantee that you're giving them what they need.

As always, if you have any questions about this article, please feel free to let me know! I'd be more than happy to help however I can!

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Which fruits are the best, and are there any fruits you should avoid? Let's dig right in!

#1: Apples

Apples are readily available all throughout the year and come in dozens of different varieties, which can be sweet, tart, and everything in between. They're rich in vitamin A and vitamin C, both of which are important for a healthy canine, and the dietary fiber they provide can help ensure clean bowel movements and minimal mess to clean up on those walks.

One important note about apples is that you should always slice them and keep the core away from your pooch. The core, which contains the seeds of the apple, is both tough and less pleasant to eat, and the seeds have cyanide in them.

While it's not enough cyanide for us humans to really worry about if we accidentally eat a seed or two, our dogs are much smaller and more vulnerable to those kinds of toxins.

Apples are also fairly firm, so cutting them into smaller bits helps reduce the risk of choking. That's going to be true of any firm fruit, so keep it in mind as you go.

#2: Blueberries

Blueberries are one of the healthiest fruits around for both people and puppies. They're super rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, and they're very tasty to boot.

As an added bonus, they're already bite-sized for dogs, so they're easy to just use as small treats or to hand over a handful after a good day of training.

Different people give blueberries differently, and it can also depend on the size of your dog. Small breeds might find berries to be a bit of a choking hazard, especially if they don't chew them properly, so you might consider mashing up the berries first.

You could also partially freeze them so they're more solid to chew on, which can be helpful if you want to put them in an engaging puzzle feeder.

One thing to keep in mind about blueberries is the pigment in their skin can stain, so don't give your dog blueberries when they're in the room with the white carpet. That same pigment can tint their poo later, too, so don't be too concerned if it looks a lot darker than normal after a handful of berries.

#3: Pears

Pears are a safe, tasty, and relatively inoffensive fruit you can give to your dog. Pear juice is used in tons of beverages because it's essentially a neutral flavor that just adds sweetness without adding too much sugar, and the same goes for using it as a dog treat.

Your dog will enjoy it, of course, and it's full of vitamins like vitamin C and vitamin K, which are important for a healthy doggo. As with most fruits, though, you want to make sure to remove the seeds and core before handing it over.

#4: Strawberries

Strawberries are sweet, delicious, and healthy for most dogs. They have vitamins, antioxidants, and plenty of healthy components. More importantly, there are no toxic substances you have to worry about.

Your dog could even eat them with the hull still on if you want, though I find that prepping a bunch of berries and leaving off the hulls is easier.

Strawberries are just on the edge of having too much sugar, so keep that in mind and only feed them in moderation. Smaller dogs can also find them a choking hazard, so making sure they're soft and ripe, mashing them, or cutting them into smaller pieces can be a good idea.

#5: Watermelon

A staple of summer, watermelon is one of the best fruits you can feed to your pup on a hot day. The rind should be removed, of course – it's tough and indigestible, so it's not very pleasant for your doggo.

The seeds should also be removed if possible, but they aren't likely to cause a huge problem if you miss a couple. Seedless watermelons can also be a good option if you don't want to go through all of that hassle.

The biggest benefit of watermelon is just the first part of the name: water. Watermelon is 90% water, so it's great for hydration without overdoing it on the water bowl and risking an accident or other problem. It also has a lot of potassium and vitamins, so it's generally healthy. Cut it, trim it down, and let them enjoy it!

#6: Coconut

Coconut is an interesting fruit in many ways. Obviously, you can't just give one shell and all to your pooch, but if you break it open and scoop out some of the fruit inside, it can be a tasty treat.

This really only applies to fresh coconuts, though. You don't want to be giving your pup sweetened and shredded coconut, or even coconut flakes, for both digestive and sugar reasons. On the plus side, it's a fruit rich in healthy fats, which can be a key part of your pup's macronutrient profile.

#7: Pumpkin

Depending on your perspective, pumpkin might be considered more of a vegetable than a fruit, but it's on my list either way. Pumpkin can be very tasty, healthy, and good for your dog, but you have to make sure you're either using unsweetened, unadulterated pumpkin puree or baking your own pumpkin so it's soft and good for them. Obviously, a pie filling full of sugar and spices just won't do.

Pumpkin Is also a key ingredient in healthy dog treats, dog treat recipes you can make at home, and even mixed with chicken for a tasty food when your dog is feeling under the weather.

#8: Cranberries

Cranberries aren't just a staple of juices, Christmas recipes, and that sauce in a can that comes out as a cylinder; they're an incredible superfood. They're packed with so many vitamins and minerals I could write a whole post just on how good they are.

I recommend sticking with fresh cranberries rather than dried, though; dried cranberries often have added sugars or even xylitol, and that's no good.

Are There Fruits to Avoid Giving to Your Dog?

Not all fruits are great for your dog, but most of them are at least safe. Some can be toxic, and others harmful in other ways.

The poster child for fruits to keep away from your dog is grapes. Grapes contain compounds that can be extremely toxic to dogs, but it's a per-dog sensitivity. Some are fine; some go into shock very quickly. Keep them away to be on the safe side. Note that this includes raisins as well!

Avocados are another example. It contains a compound called persin that can be dangerous, and while the flesh of the avocado doesn't have a ton of it, it can still be enough to upset your dog's stomach. The high fat content can also cause problems.

Another fruit you might want to avoid is pineapple. Pineapple can be given to your dog in moderation, but it has a few problems. For one thing, it's very high in sugar, which is generally bad for most dogs, especially dogs with prediabetes or diabetes.

The pineapple skin is indigestible, so it can cause digestion issues and even bowel obstructions. There's also the enzyme in it! If you've ever eaten a bunch of pineapple, you know that funny feeling in your mouth? That's the pineapple enzyme breaking down your mouth skin. You don't want to do that to your pooch, right?

Another fruit you might consider avoiding is blackberries. They're full of antioxidants and healthy phytochemicals, but they also contain naturally occurring xylitol, which is toxic to dogs. Your dog would have to eat a lot of them (unless it's a very small breed) to be hurt by it, but it's still better to be safe, right?

Dog Fruit Snacks FAQ

Now, let's round things out with a couple of questions that I didn't have space to cover in the list above.

What other fruits are good for dogs?

Most fruits are at least safe for your dog to eat or are safe after you do a little preparation. For example, mangos are a tasty treat, but you can't just give them one whole. The pit can cause problems if you do, and the skin is hard for your furry friend to digest. Peel and core the mango and give them bites of it, and you're fine.

Other melons than watermelon – like cantaloupe and honeydew – are also good options, but they have the same caveats. No rind, no seeds, in moderation because of the sugars.

What fruits should you leave off the list?

There are a handful of fruits that are healthy and won't hurt your dog the way a toxic fruit might but are still less good for them than the other fruits on the list.

One big example is bananas. Bananas are full of potassium and other nutrients and can be perfectly fine treats for a dog, but they're also very sweet and full of sugar, which can cause problems, especially if your dog is diabetic. Oranges are also one that is often more trouble than it's worth. You want to leave off the peel and the seeds, at which point you have a mess on your hands.

Peaches aren't bad for your dog – as long as you don't feed them the stone – but they're also emblematic of a common mistake, which is using canned rather than fresh peaches. Canned peaches have tons more sugar and are much worse for your dog. The same goes for any canned fruit, really.

Grapefruit is another fruit you should consider leaving off the list. It's annoying like oranges, but it's more acidic, which can upset your poor puppy's stomach. There are also compounds in grapefruit that can interfere with medications – it's more of a problem for people, but you don't want it to cause problems in a senior dog, right?

Is it a good idea to give dogs fruit as a treat?

Many fruits can be good treats. They're tasty, they're usually fairly healthy, and they serve to break up the usual routine of kibble and treats like cheese or sausage.

Even so, they should be considered a "sometimes food" because of their sugar content, and you still have to avoid the ones that can be bad for your pooch.

Do dogs need fruit to be healthy?

Nope!

As people, we're used to a balanced diet from the food pyramid, and the recommendation to get however many servings of fruit and veg each day. Dogs are omnivores just like us, so they can eat most of the same things, but they don't need to.

The biggest reason why is actually their existing food. Dog foods are specially formulated to contain all of the macro and micro-nutrients your dog will need to stay healthy. They don't need added fruits, vegetables, or anything else to stay healthy.

Why can we make a nutritionally-complete kibble for dogs but not for people? Dogs have much less complex dietary needs, for one thing. Human nutrition is immensely complicated, especially since we need to get it right, or we start to develop neurological problems.

We also live a lot longer, so there's a lot more time for problems to develop. Dogs might have problems subsisting just on kibble if they lived to be 60 as well, but they don't have that kind of lifespan.

How much fruit can my dog have?

Not much! In general, treats should make up 10% or less of your dog's diet. Fruit should be considered a treat, not a staple, for this purpose. So, try to avoid giving them too much fruit!

If your dog is eating too much fruit on a regular basis, they'll generally start to develop signs of an upset stomach. You don't want to make your fur baby sick, right?

So, there you have it: a good rundown of what fruits are good for dogs in moderation and which ones you might want to avoid. If you have a specific question about a fruit I haven't listed, feel free to drop me a line!

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Now, we've all been there, right? Everyone has that moment as a kid where they eat too much cake and feel sick, or gorge on holiday candy and treats, or just go too deep on whatever it is they're fixated on at the time. However, we don't usually eat until we actually throw up. And, critically, we're doing it with something we enjoy.

So, do dogs just really like eating grass? Is this a behavior we should be worried about? Let's talk about it.

Why Do Dogs Eat Grass Until Vomiting?

First up, let's talk a bit about why dogs eat grass in the first place. Then, we'll get into whether or not you should be concerned and what you should do about it.

Before getting into the actual reasons, I wanted to mention a common myth: that dogs are intentionally gorging themselves on grass to induce vomiting.

So, you know how when you have nausea, and you feel the bile rising in your throat, and your mouth starts to salivate a lot? It's a biological reaction to get you to swallow a lot of liquid to try to settle your stomach, or at least coat your mouth and throat before you vomit to protect it from stomach acid.

In dogs, the same sort of thing happens, but they don't really know how to deal with it. Most of the time, they start licking or chewing on anything nearby. If they're outside in the yard or on a walk, they'll start eating grass in an attempt to settle their stomachs, but since grass isn't really part of their diet, it can trigger their gag reflex and make them vomit.

Basically, they aren't intentionally making themselves vomit, but that's what ends up happening, and since vomiting often alleviates whatever was causing the digestive upset in the first place, it kind of works out.

Another common reason people think dogs eat grass is out of boredom, but that's not really accurate either. Dogs, when they're bored, are more likely to be destructive than consumptive. They might eat things like grass, cardboard, furniture, pillow stuffing, and whatever else they can get their paws on, but it's more of a side effect of just tearing it apart. They aren't doing it to eat grass; they're doing it as part of just doing something to get your attention.

What are the actual reasons dogs eat grass? There are basically three main reasons.

Reason #1: They just like the taste.

The first reason dogs eat grass is just because they like how it tastes.

You and I eat vegetables and (usually) enjoy them, right? Whether it's some lettuce in a salad, some broccoli or cauliflower roasted in the oven, or a nice pile of carrots and potatoes on the side, vegetables can be quite delicious.

And, of course, we all know that dogs love eating things they find tasty. Whether it's their kibble, a treat like a bit of cheese, or a pile of something weird and gross on the ground, they'll dig right in. Their tastes might not make sense to us, but to them, and the way they see the world, it's delicious.

Grass can be tasty in its own right. Even plants you might not think you would eat can be tasty in the right preparations, and to dogs, that right preparation might be as simple as "still wet from morning dew or a rainstorm" or "covered in the scent of other animals that ran through here."

It also ties into the second reason; after all, when you evolve to do something, you probably evolve to at least find it palatable.

Reason #2: It's an instinctual behavior.

Dogs are a distant offshoot of wolves, and wolves also eat grass. They do it for many of the same reasons, but also, it's just part of hunting. Sometimes, they need something moderately nutritious to fuel them while they hunt prey. Sometimes, when they take down prey, as they eat the meat, they end up with mouthfuls of grass as well. They can't necessarily afford to be picky eaters, so they take what they get.

A lot of times, dogs just have this need to eat grass as they pass by. There doesn't really need to be a deeper meaning to it at all; it's just something they do because their little goofy brains tell them it's a good idea.

Reason #3: They have an upset stomach.

I already covered this one above in a roundabout way. Dogs don't really have the drive to eat grass to satisfy an upset stomach, but if they're feeling nauseous, they might want something to try to keep it down. If they don't have access to grass, maybe they'll just start licking the carpet, or they'll go and drink a bunch of water.

And, truth be told, sometimes it works. In fact, while the experience of a dog eating grass and then throwing up seems universal, studies have shown that only around 10% of dogs show any sign of being ill before they eat grass, and only a quarter of them vomit after eating grass. You might even be able to attribute the vomiting to over-eating in general or to eating something on the grass that disagrees with them.

In a way, it's a lot like how we can settle our stomachs with neutral crackers or digestives or something else that can soak up churning stomach acid and help the system move a little faster.

Should You Worry If Your Dog is Eating Grass?

Honestly, probably not!

It's fairly natural for dogs to eat grass from time to time. Some of them will want to eat grass pretty often, maybe on every walk or every chance they get. Others might only think of it as a sometimes snack, taking mouthfuls of a tasty grass they find along the way but generally leaving it all along.

There are a few good reasons why you might want to do some redirection training and help keep your dog from eating grass too often, though.

• If they eat too much grass, it can fill them up, so they won't eat their normal food and can end up deficient.
• If they eat too much grass, it can cause an upset stomach and lead to problems.
• They might eat things along with the grass that they shouldn't, whether it's sharp bits of wood, stinging plants like nettles, plants like poison ivy that can cause a bad reaction, or things like stinging insects that can cause other problems.
• The grass they eat might have chemicals or other nastiness on it that can be dangerous for your dog, even if the grass itself is not.

Overall, if your dog is eating grass, you should look at the situation and figure out why they're doing it and if it's cause for concern. If it's sporadic or occasional and doesn't seem to cause them any problems, you can leave it be.

If they're eating grass while also doing things like digging holes or tearing up the carpet, it probably means they're bored. They might also do things like eat your houseplants, which is also obviously not something you want them to be doing.

Boredom means that training isn't likely to work since it doesn't address the cause of the problem. You'll simply need to find ways to keep your dog entertained and engaged, even when you're not around. That might mean hiring a pet sitter for the day, or a dog walker, or getting friends to hang out and care for them. Alleviating boredom and the anxiety that comes with it is the key.

If your dog seems to have a compulsion to eat grass and they seem to be fixated on it whenever you take them out, there are two things you can do.

The first is to take them to the vet to see if there's actually something wrong with them. It's pretty rare for this to be the case – your fur baby isn't going to be eating grass as their sole symptom, so you'd be able to recognize if they're sick in other ways – but it's possible. A rare disorder called pica, or disordered eating, can lead to dogs trying to eat just about everything they see, including grass. Other medical issues, like gastric reflux, IBS, or pancreatitis, can also lead to eating grass. It's a good idea to rule these out.

The other thing you should do is try redirection training. Redirection training just means that whenever you see your dog start to lean over to eat grass, you give them a call or command to distract them and reward them for not eating the grass. I find that a "drop it" command can be pretty effective.

If you do this consistently enough, they'll attach the reward in their mind to the act of refraining from eating grass, and they'll stop. You do need to be consistent and proactive with it. It will take some time, just like all dog training, but it's not actually all that hard to do.

Overall, though, unless your dog has accidentally poisoned themselves, gotten themselves sick or parasitized, or is eating so much that they cause problems, you probably don't need to worry about them eating grass. Sometimes, the things dogs do are just things dogs do, and they aren't a sign of anything worse.

Another thing you can try is changing their food. There was one recorded example of a dog that ate grass to the point of vomiting every day for years, and it turned out to be something with their food that disagreed with them. When their parents changed their food, they stopped eating grass, and everything was good. That might not be the case for your dog, but it might be worth a try.

Dog Grass Eating FAQ

Now, let's round things out with a few questions you might have that didn't fit into the main sections.

Do dogs like eating grass?

Maybe! Like most things, your dog is an individual, and they have their own preferences. Some dogs don't care about grass one way or the other. Some prefer to avoid it when they can. Some like the texture or the taste of the grass. Some might not actually be going after the grass itself, but rather, some kind of chemical or fertilizer or a specific plant in the grass, like clover. If you notice that your dog eats grass a lot more in the spring, that's likely it; fresh grass shoots and wildflower sprigs are sweeter and more tender, while later summer and fall grasses are rougher and more likely to be bitter.

Is grass bad for dogs to eat?

Only in excess. Dogs are omnivores just like we are, so just like we can eat some vegetables in our diet, dogs can have a little grass as a treat if they like. Cats are the same way, though they aren't quite the same kind of omnivore.

That said, if they eat too much grass, it can cause problems, so you should probably try to train away that behavior as much as you can. You don't need them to fully stop; just not eat to excess.

More importantly, though, even if the grass isn't bad for your dog, you never know what's in the grass. There could be toxic fertilizer, pesticides, roadside chemicals, and even parasites that can come along for the ride. If you keep your yard free of contaminants, you may be fine, but it's best to be safe.

Is eating grass a sign of nutritional deficiency?

While this is a pretty common myth, it's actually just that: a myth. For one thing, if you're feeding your dog right, they won't be nutritionally deficient in the first place. More importantly, if they are deficient in some nutrient or another, they'll have symptoms of that deficiency, usually weight loss, lethargy, loss of coordination, or another sign of illness.

Overall, you generally don't need to worry about your dog eating grass, even if they vomit after doing it. It's only if they do it over and over and over that it might be an issue, but even then, it's unlikely to be an emergency. Just mention it next time you bring them to the vet, and work on some training along the way.

As always, if you have any questions about anything I covered in this article, be sure to let me know in the comments section!

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Cat grass is actually a treat for cats, but there's a lot to know about it, so let's give it a look!

What is Cat Grass?

Surprisingly enough, cat grass is exactly what it sounds like: it's grass. For cats!

No, seriously, that's pretty much all it is. There are a handful of different species of grass that have all been branded "cat grass" because it's not a species of grass; it's a category of product.

What makes it different from the grass you have outside? A lot of things, actually.

• The species. I said there are a handful of species of grass labeled cat grass, but the grass you have in your yard will probably be a different variety of grass, which is also probably quite regional to where you live.
• The consistency. Cat grass is a single pot with a single kind of grass in it. A yard is going to have a bunch of different kinds of plants, from clovers to flowers to weeds, and you never know what's safe and what isn't in that mix.
• The cleanliness. Cat grass grown on your own can be carefully controlled for what you put on it. Cat grass from a store likely only used some mild fertilizer, if anything, and is free from harmful pesticides and chemicals that your cat could ingest if they eat grass outside. Oops; spoilers for the purpose of cat grass there.

Cat grass is meant to be a safe way for a cat to indulge in certain urges, while getting some health benefits at the same time.

What Species is Cat Grass?

Cat grass can technically be any species of grass grown for use as a cat treat. Cat grass growers generally pick one of a few common grass species, however.

These species include:

• Arrhenatherum elatius, the oatgrass.
• Hordeum vulgare, the barley grass.
• Triticum aestivum, the wheatgrass.
• Lolium perenne, the ryegrass.

Sometimes, a packet of cat grass seeds might be a mixture of some or all of these rather than just one.

These are all generally known to be safe for cats to consume, and they're relatively fast and easy to grow without having to set up special care conditions. Cat grass can grow just fine with consistent watering and some light from a window, and you don't need much more than that.

What is Cat Grass Used For?

I already spoiled it up above, but it's basically just a treat for cats.

If you're wondering why grass, a plant, can be a treat for obligate carnivores (that is, meat-eaters), it's not actually something we know. There are some theories, though.

The biggest is just that cats were formerly wild animals, and wild animals need to stalk, hunt, and kill their prey to survive. Whether it's a lion hunting a wildebeest in the African savannahs or your neighbor's feral cat colony hunting the local population of songbirds, they pounce, they kill, and they eat what they kill.

Sometimes, a cat will take their prey back to where they live, to feed kittens (or to try to teach you how to hunt.) Other times, they just eat where they sit, if they feel comfortable enough in their position to do so.

Well, while a cat is chowing down on their prey right there in the grasslands or the yard, they aren't exactly being cautious with it. They're probably getting bits of grass in those bites, along with the meat of the creature they caught.

Over time, cats developed the habit of eating more grass after they ate their prey. As it turns out, evolutionarily speaking, cats that ate grass alongside their meals had less digestive upset, had an easier time coughing up hairballs and passing the little bones and hair and feathers caught in their systems, and were generally healthier. So, cats that ate grass passed that habit along, and now most cats have that urge to get a little grass in their diets.

What Are the Benefits of Cat Grass for Cats?

I already kind of mentioned some of these in that last paragraph, but let's go over them in a bit more detail.

Cat grass helps with digestion. This is especially true for cats that eat rodents or birds, because they're going to end up eating things like fur, feathers, and small bones that will otherwise mess with their digestive systems and need to be expelled. Cat grass helps handle these without causing more problems down the line.

Cat grass provides dietary fiber. Fiber is great for helping your fur baby absorb more water when they drink and for helping smooth out digestion in other ways. It's also very helpful for cats that are sick or have diarrhea, as it can help pull water out of their intestines and firm up their stool.

Cat grass contains trace vitamins and minerals. A variety of nutrients cats can use, including folic acid, vitamins A and D, and a handful of trace minerals, are all present in cat grass. Your cat can get what they need from the food you give them, but wild cats get some of it from grass as well, and the instinct to consume grass will stay even if your cat has robust food at home.

Cat grass can help soothe the stomach. Grass can also help steady your fur baby's stomach when they're eating, especially if they ate too fast and now they've got some tummy rumbles bothering them.

Cat grass might potentially help ease pain. Chlorophyll, the thing that makes plants green, has some antibiotic, anti-pain, and anti-inflammation properties. It's nowhere near strong enough to replace modern medicine, but it's something that can help a cat that just isn't feeling quite comfortable.

There's also some thinking that if a cat has internal parasites in the digestive system, like a tapeworm, the grass can actually wrap around and pull out that parasite. Again, it's not as valuable as an actual antiparasitic medication, but it's not nothing.

Other than the dietary and health benefits, there are a few behavioral benefits. Finding, playing with, and chewing on cat grass can be an enrichment activity, especially if you move where you keep the grass. Some people find that cats who eat cat grass have better breath. And, of course, if your cat is busy chewing on cat grass, they aren't eating the plants you want to keep around.

Is Cat Grass Safe for Cats?

Now we get to the biggest question: is cat grass even safe? After all, cats are prone to chew on all kinds of plants, including plants like the toxic houseplants I listed in this guide. So, if your cat can't instinctively know when a plant is safe or not, how do you know cat grass is safe?

Fortunately, the answer is yes.

Cat grass is a selection of grasses specifically chosen because they're fast-growing, hearty, can survive being chewed on, and are safe for cats to eat. It's a lot safer than any random house plants or, worse, the grass in your yard, which could have all sorts of chemicals on it, and you'd never know.

Just make sure to get your cat grass from a trustworthy source, or grow your own. It's quite easy to grow, even.

Are There Side Effects of Cat Grass?

Not really! If your cat eats way too much grass, then they might throw up some of it, but that's basically the worst that can happen.

How Can You Grow Your Own Cat Grass?

If you don't want to keep buying cat grass every few weeks when the current batch has been eaten down and dies, you'll want to get in the habit of growing your own. Fortunately, it's very simple. All you need is:

• Small pots, preferably durable, resilient pots that won't break if your cat knocks over a pot. Some people like heavy pots that can't be tipped over, and others resign themselves to cleaning up spilled dirt on occasion. It's up to you.
• Cat grass seeds, which can be bought at nearly any nursery or at any greenhouse online.
• Dirt. A generic seed starting blend is all you need, and you can buy large sacks of it for cheap.
• A spray bottle and a small watering can.
• A good source of light. If you don't have a convenient window to grow your cat grass, you'll want to invest in a small grow light.

To grow cat grass, fill a pot with soil and scatter some grass seeds across it. You don't need a ton, but you want enough to make the pot somewhat dense with plants. Cover the seeds in another quarter inch of soil and water it thoroughly. After this, keep the soil damp but not saturated. The seeds should sprout in around 3-7 days.

After that point, make sure they get bright light, and keep them misted with a spray bottle. Once the grass is around four inches tall, you can start giving it to your cat. Start new pots every couple of weeks, so you always have one ready to go; cat grass lasts for about two weeks before your cat will either have eaten it down or it will die back on its own.

Alternatively, you can check out some of our products:

• Cat Grass Growing Kit
• Cat Grass Growing Kit Plus
• Cat Grass Growing Kit Ultimate

These kits give you everything you need to grow grass, including pots, substrate, seeds, and a spray bottle, as well as instructions on how to grow the grass and when to give it to your fur baby. We make it easy for you!

Cat Grass FAQs

Now, let's answer some of the more common questions I've seen about cat grass. If you have one that I didn't cover above, feel free to ask it in the comments, and I'll get back to you!

Are cat grass and catnip the same thing?

Not at all! Catnip is distantly related to mint and contains a chemical called nepetalactone, which is the one that drives cats wild if they're receptive to it. I have a whole guide to catnip here if you're interested in learning more. Cat grass, meanwhile, is a cereal grain plant when it's still young. Wheat, barley, rye, and oats are all cat grasses. If those plants survived long enough to seed, you'd be able to harvest those grains!

Are there different kinds of cat grass?

Yes and no. While there are different species of grasses that are called cat grass, they're all more or less the same kind of thing. All cat grasses are cereal grain plants when they're young and tender enough for a cat to enjoy taking a nibble.

Is cat grass safe to give your cats?

Yes, assuming it's actually cat grass. This is why you need to buy it from a reputable seller or grow your own. If you're buying from someone you don't know or trust, you never know if the plants you grow are actually cat grass or if they're something else that could potentially be toxic.

Additionally, you need to make sure you aren't just letting your cat out to chew on your yard. You never know what kinds of parasites, insects, chemicals, or poisons in the soil can seep into or linger on the plants in your yard, and they can make your fur baby sick. Stick with controlled grass indoors, please!

Will cat grass help prevent your cats from chewing on other plants?

Possibly! Your cat is going to explore and chew on whatever they want, so the goal is to make sure the cat grass is easier and more accessible to them whenever they want to chew on some greenery. If they can wander to their favorite sunny windowsill and find some cat grass, they're a lot more likely to be content with it when the alternative is breaking into a closed room and finding a high shelf with your other plants.

Did I miss any questions you may have about cat grass? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you with an answer as soon as possible!

Whenever there's a funny "challenge" to feed a pet some strange food, though, I always ask myself: is this safe? Is it okay to feed a dog something like broccoli, or are there toxic compounds or chemicals that can aggravate them if they eat it?

Fortunately, with broccoli, there's good news. If you want to contribute to the growing pile of hilarious dogs confronting broccoli on the internet, you're safe to do so.

Is Broccoli Safe for Dogs?

The short answer is yes, broccoli is safe for dogs to consume.

It's safe both when it's raw and when it's cooked, too, so you don't need to worry about having to steam it up every time you want to give them a treat.

You might also discover that your dog likes cooked broccoli more than raw – or vice versa, and they like raw broccoli more than cooked. Just like people, dogs have different preferences, and cooked and raw broccoli have both different flavors and different textures.

Watch out, though; broccoli florets are made up of tons of little bits, and all of those bits can get everywhere if your pooch is a messy eater. You'll be cleaning up green stuff for ages.

There is a longer answer, though.

How Much Broccoli is Too Much for Dogs?

Unfortunately, broccoli does contain a particular chemical compound that is actually mildly toxic to dogs. It's called isothiocyanate, and it's common in all of the different kinds of brassica vegetables. In case you don't know, a lot of different edible vegetables are just various kinds of brassica we've bred over the millennia to be different species. Turnips, rutabagas, radishes, wasabi, horseradish, kohlrabi, kale, cabbage, bok choy, collards, watercress, arugula, mustard greens, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, and of course broccoli, are all brassicas.

Luckily, this chemical isn't going to kill a dog if they eat broccoli. It causes mild gastric upset and, in sufficient amounts, can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, and rarely, potentially severe side effects.

So, why do we say it's safe for dogs to eat broccoli?

You would have to be feeding your dog a lot of broccoli for this to be a problem. The American Kennel Club specifies that broccoli should be no more than 10% of their diet to stay safe; anything over 25% of their diet causes problems, and severe side effects are unlikely unless they're eating way more than that.

Why just 10% of their diet?

Using a percentage here is important because it's impossible to give a measurement in cups or grams. After all, if you feed two cups of broccoli to a mastiff, it's going to have a very different experience than if you feed two cups of broccoli to a chihuahua, right?

The AKC and other organizations tend to use percentages for these kinds of things when it's just a general recommendation for exactly this reason. It's just a way of saying keep intake down and don't make broccoli a key part of your dog's diet. You probably aren't going to be doing that anyway, but, you know, words of caution.

For more specific chemicals, medications, and the like, these organizations will instead use dosages per kilogram or pound of body weight to adjust for the size of the dog being treated. That's important for medications and compounds with a strong effect, but not so much for something like broccoli.

Is Broccoli Beneficial for Dogs?

Sort of. As a vegetable, broccoli is rich in dietary fiber and low in protein and fat. It's also high in vitamin C. On top of that, it has other vitamins – A, D, K, and more – as well as lutein, a beneficial nutrient for eyesight and heart health. These are nutrients that are beneficial to dogs just as much as they are to people, so it's not a bad thing for your dog to have some as a snack.

At the same time, the isothiocyanates can be detrimental in large amounts, and there's a lot in broccoli that isn't really important to a pooch. We tend to think of things like broccoli as healthy because they're healthy for people, but they aren't as great for dogs; they're just fine.

How to Prepare Broccoli for a Dog?

If you want to give your pup a snack with a little broccoli, you should make sure you're doing it right. There are four rules you absolutely have to follow; otherwise, you will put your pooch in grave danger!

Okay, well, it's not quite that scary. But it's still important!

Rule number one! Cut the broccoli into bite-sized pieces. Broccoli, especially if it's raw broccoli, is actually kind of tough. And you know dogs, they barely chew their food, and they'll snarf it right down if they get the chance. Put a bowl with a few broccoli florets on it in front of them, and if they like it, they'll start gulping. And then what? Then you have a dog choking on broccoli! Nobody wants that. So cut the broccoli small. As an added bonus, this also helps you keep track of how much you've given them.

Rule number two! Cook the broccoli first. This isn't actually that firm of a rule – some dogs can eat raw broccoli just fine – but it's also a way to help keep it safe. Cooked broccoli is softer and easier to chew, so it's much less likely to get stuck and become a choking hazard. It also holds together better and makes less of a mess when your fur baby starts going to town on it.

Cooking the broccoli is also important for food sanitization reasons. Unfortunately, food regulations are in a lull right now – you've probably noticed the seemingly weekly recalls for things like salmonella and listeria – and those bad bacteria can affect dogs, too. Cooking the broccoli makes it safer for both your consumption and your doggo's.

Rule number three! Start with a small amount until you know how your dog reacts. Some dogs won't like broccoli at all, and cooking up a bunch for them doesn't do you any good. Some dogs will love it, and if you're not careful, they'll try to get at every salad you make.

More importantly, though, some dogs will be more sensitive to isothiocyanates, so it takes a smaller amount of broccoli to cause them digestive upset. Give them no more than a floret or two (depending on the size of the dog) and watch them to see if they start to have digestive symptoms or signs of an allergic reaction. Allergies are very, very, very rare, so they shouldn't be a problem, but you still need to make sure the first time you give them any.

Finally, rule number four! Never, ever cook the broccoli with spices, seasonings, or anything else. That means if you're making a tasty broccoli dish for yourself, it's just for you, not for the puppy! Salt, garlic, onion, oregano, caraway, tarragon, and a bunch of other spices and herbs are bad for dogs – much worse than isothiocyanates – so you definitely don't want to put them on the broccoli you give to your pup.

Most of the time, you want to give your dog the florets of the broccoli and not the stems. The stems are tougher, harder to chew, and more likely to get stuck in the throat. If you chop them small and steam them well, you can give them the bits, and I know some people will even puree the broccoli stems for a liquid treat as well. Those are options, but if you want more whole vegetables, the florets are the way to go.

What Are the Side Effects of Giving a Dog Broccoli?

When you feed your dog some broccoli, you're probably going to be in for a slightly unpleasant time.

So, here's the thing: broccoli is healthy and tasty, a lot of dogs enjoy it, and it's safe if you give it to your pooch in moderation. But, it also contains some sulfur compounds and a lot of fiber, both of which combine in a dog's digestive system for one particular result.

You probably already know what I'm talking about, right? Stink bombs.

Broccoli, even small amounts of broccoli, can make your dog gassy. If your dog is already naturally gassy, they'll be even more gassy. Worse, broccoli farts are definitely unpleasant.

Some dogs might not be really affected by this. Others might be walking chemical weapons for the rest of the day. There's really no way to tell until you give them some and see how they react.

Truthfully, this is also something you might consider enough of an adverse side effect to stop you from giving them any more broccoli. It's not going to be truly harmful unless it's really bad, but even some bloating and gassiness can be unpleasant for your pooch, so think carefully if the funny videos or the quick treat is worth it.

Dogs Eating Broccoli FAQ

Let's wrap things up with a quick summary of some of the most common questions about dogs and broccoli.

Can dogs eat broccoli safely?

Yes, as long as they don't eat too much of it. Handing them a floret as a snack or for a funny video on TikTok is fine. Feeding them a vegan diet full of broccoli is not. You want to make sure it's a snack or a treat and not a significant portion of their diet.

How much broccoli is too much for a dog?

The AKC recommends no more than 10% of a dog's daily diet be broccoli. That's not much, but it can be more than you might think, depending on the size of your pooch. Either way, treat it as a snack or a treat, and you'll be fine.

What do you need to do to give your dog broccoli safely?

Start with a small portion to make sure they don't have a bad reaction. Make sure to cook it – usually by steaming it – with no added seasonings, not even salt. Cut it up into small bite-size portions for your pooch, and make sure to watch them in case they choke even on the little bits you give them.

Special note: when you cook broccoli for your fur baby, make sure to let it cool before you give it to them! You don't want to accidentally burn their mouths or throats, after all.

My dog likes frozen broccoli! What can I do to make it safer?

If your dog likes frozen broccoli but doesn't want to touch it if it's cooked, you can try cooking it and then freezing it. That way, it's still cooked, softer, smaller, and easier for them to digest once it thaws, but it's still frozen, so they can still enjoy it while it's cold.

Should I consult with my vet before giving my dog broccoli?

Probably. Your vet might have specific information for you or for your dog, or simply based on their own past experience. In general, they'll tell you the same things I've told you here, but they might have more specific information.

This is especially true if your dog has any ongoing health issues. For example, an elderly dog with some digestive problems in the evening might actually benefit from a little bit of a fiber snack like broccoli, while a puppy might not get much out of it. Other health issues can be affected by gas and bloating as well.

Have you ever given your pooch broccoli? Have you taken one of those funny internet videos? If they act funny around broccoli, I highly recommend it; having that video to laugh about later is great. Plus, I'd love to see it!

Dogs like to get into things they shouldn't. And, since they have a limited number of ways they can interact with the world, they often just put things in their mouths. Often, that means they're licking, chewing on, or even eating things they shouldn't be. Sometimes, it's fine, even if it's a little gross. Sometimes, it can lead to an upset stomach. In worse cases, it can cause something worse, like an infection, an intestinal blockage, or another dangerous problem.

Fortunately, there are ways you can tell what's going wrong and how concerned you need to be, and whether you can just sigh, clean up, and move on, or if you need to rush your poor pooch to the vet. Unfortunately, it involves inspecting the vomit that comes out of your pup to interpret what it means. It's not like reading tea leaves or palms, but luckily, it's a lot more useful.

Vomiting vs. Regurgitation vs. Coughing

One of the first things to learn is that, though we use the terms to mean the same thing in general, vomiting and regurgitation are actually different things.

Have you ever had a case where your dog is so happy to be fed, possibly after a long play session, that they absolutely go to town on that bowl of food? It feels like a cup of kibble disappears in the time it takes you to blink.

Then, seconds later, it's back; a little chewed, a little damp, but right there on your floor, your pooch having barely gotten it all down before it comes right back up.

While unpleasant for you – and possibly just as attractive as the first time around to your doggo – this is regurgitation. Your dog ate their food much too quickly, and their body wasn't prepared for it, so it just pushed it right back up.

Regurgitation almost always happens pretty much immediately after eating, with little or no delay. It also comes with little or no warning, no retching, heaving, or contractions indicating they're trying to purge their stomach. That's because regurgitation usually happens when the stomach isn't even open for business, at least not for the sudden burst of food coming its way.

Regurgitation is not vomiting, and it's usually not dangerous unless it's happening every time your fur baby tries to eat. If it is, they may have something wrong that is preventing them from keeping food down, and it's a good idea to call your vet about it if it happens more than a couple of times in a row. A little regurgitation from an excitable pup is nothing to be too worried about, though. It just means you should get a slow feeder.

How about a second scenario? Have you ever had a time when your dog starts hacking and retching, like a chain smoker trying to clear their lungs, until something gross and gooey comes up? Often, it's white or clear, foamy, maybe a little yellow, and has the same sort of consistency as whatever you hack up when you're sick.

This is phlegm and spit more than anything, and it's not vomiting, it's coughing. It's more coming from the sinuses, throat, and lungs, rather than the digestive system. It can be a sign of a respiratory illness, like kennel cough, so if it happens frequently you should call your vet. Otherwise, though, it's not much different from you clearing your throat.

Vomiting is different from either of the above. Vomiting happens when your dog starts retching and hacking, clearly trying to expel something. You have a bit of warning to put something in front of them or take them away from the nice carpets, but probably not a lot of warning. Vomiting is expelling the contents of the stomach, which means it will contain whatever your fur baby has swallowed, whether it's food, bile, roadkill, parts of a toy or bone, or whatever else they've gotten into.

Vomiting is the most dangerous of the three, in general. It's a natural process where the body expels something causing it problems, but that means something is causing problems, and it's not always directly something your fur baby ate. If, for example, they end up with an impacted bowel, they won't be able to defecate, and food will get backed up in their system. Eventually, trying to eat more simply won't work, and if they try, they'll vomit.

When a dog vomits, it can be caused by a wide range of different problems, and those problems can be partially diagnosed through an inspection of the vomit itself. It's gross and unpleasant, but it has to be done.

Interpreting Dog Vomit

Knowing what vomit means can be the difference between taking your time cleaning up and rushing your fur baby to the vet before something terrible happens. So, let's talk about it, unpleasant though it may be.

Color and texture are generally related, so we'll cover them both as we go.

Before diving in, though, it's worth saying one thing: vomiting, while natural, is a sign of something wrong. Sometimes, something is as minor as a bit of an upset stomach and resolves itself immediately. Other times, it can be caused by an infection, a parasite like worms, poisoning from eating something toxic, or an injury.

Vomiting more than once in a day and more than a couple of days in a row is almost always something you need to talk to your vet about. At the very least, give them a call, describe the issue, and they'll ask you questions about what's going on and can tell you if you need to bring your dog in right away. Sometimes it's a clear emergency, of course, but if you're at all unsure, it's always better to be safe than sorry.

White Vomit

If your dog's vomit is white, it's either smooth or foamy in consistency. This can be regurgitation, but it can also be a sign that your fur baby ate something mildly toxic to them and they're purging it. It can also be a symptom of digestive upset, acid reflux, or an intestinal blockage, though the latter is less common.

White vomit tends to happen the most because your fur baby had an upset stomach and tried to eat some grass to soothe it. It often doesn't work and, worse, since grass often has chemicals like fertilizers and pesticides on it, it can be dangerous.

White foamy vomit can also be caused by bloating or other gastrointestinal issues. If they're trying to vomit repeatedly and can't seem to get up anything more than white foam, call your vet ASAP because they may have an intestinal blockage. If, on the other hand, it resolves itself after a few attempts, contact your vet for an appointment when you can, but you usually don't need the emergency trip.

Green Vomit

Green vomit is almost, but not always, caused by your fur baby just eating way too much grass. It can also be caused by them eating something that contains green food coloring, probably something they shouldn't have been getting into, which is why they're vomiting it up.

Green is also the color of bile, which can indicate some minor illnesses or food allergies. You should usually be able to tell whether or not there's grass in the vomit, and if there isn't, it may be slightly more of a cause for concern. That said, pretty much all of the causes of green vomit – except for poisoning, which will have other symptoms as well – are minor, so it's not something you need to be too concerned with.

As always, though, if your dog keeps vomiting repeatedly throughout the day or across several days, it's more likely to be an illness or emergency, and you should contact your vet right away.

Yellow Vomit

Yellow is one of the most common and least dangerous colors for vomit. It's tinted with bile, but not a lot of it. Yellow vomit is usually just a case of an empty stomach disliking something that hit it or a case of acid reflux. It's unpleasant, but it's not dangerous.

The exception is if it happens regularly. That can be a sign of a stomach disease, a consistent food allergy, or some kind of gut inflammation that is causing an imbalance in their system. All of these are non-emergency problems, but they should still be addressed as soon as you can get a standard appointment.

Brown Vomit

Brown is one of the trickier colors to diagnose, because it's either virtually harmless, or quite dangerous. Why? Basically, brown vomit can be caused by three things.

First, it can be partially digested food. This is most common if your fur baby has some kind of upset stomach after eating, and vomits up their food partially digested. This usually has a chunkier texture, more like wet and chewed food, and while it's certainly disgusting, it's actually the least bad of the three causes.

Second, it can be feces. Dogs love to get into things they shouldn't, and you've almost definitely had to stop them from eating both their own excrement and whatever piles they find from other creatures out on their walks. Unfortunately, you probably can't keep them under your watchful eye 100% of the time, and they may have slipped the net and found something to eat that they shouldn't have. Then, when it comes back up, it's brown like it was when they first ate it. This, while disgusting, isn't dangerous at all unless the feces they ate had something like worms in it that have gotten into your dog.

The third is the more dangerous of the three, and it's blood. Usually, blood in vomit is more obvious. But, blood further down the digestive tract is partially digested, and that oxidizes it, just like how blood dries brown, basically. If there's a little blood in their vomit, it can look brown. How can you tell? Basically, just use something white when you clean it up, like paper towels. The redness will be more obvious against something white. If you see red, then you should call your vet.

Red Vomit

Red or pink vomit is one of two things. It could be red food coloring or dye from something they are, whether it's a human candy or even kibble that has dye in it. That's distressing but not really dangerous beyond the fact that they were eating something they shouldn't have.

The more common cause is blood. The "good" news is that if the blood is red, it's fresher blood. That means it could be coming from something like a cut in their mouth, a scratch in their throat, or a gastrointestinal problem.

I put good in quotes because any blood in the vomit, especially if you don't see an obvious mouth wound, is dangerous. It's definitely emergency vet time, so don't delay.

Black Vomit

Black vomit is one of the worst kinds of vomit. It usually has the appearance sort of like coffee grounds. Unless your dog, well, ate and vomited up actual coffee grounds, this is a sign of a very serious problem. It's blood, again, but it's blood that was digested, so it's deeper in their system and probably more dangerous. Definitely take them to your emergency vet ASAP, as this can indicate a life-threatening problem like a gut puncture, among other things.

None of us like to see our fur babies in distress, and definitely none of us like to be cleaning up piles of vomit on the carpet, furniture, crate, or other floors. While cleanup is important, you can't just close your eyes and mop it up; it's critical to know what you're dealing with to make sure there isn't a worse problem at hand.

Hopefully, your fur baby is okay, and you don't have to worry. I'm rooting for you!

Now, after reading this article, if you have any non-medically-urgent questions, be sure to let me know in the comments section down below. I'd be more than happy to help you out however I can!

While none of us want to be miserable, it's even worse to see something we love be miserable and know there isn't a whole lot we can do about it.

When our beloved puppies fall ill, whether it's a kennel cough, canine cold, or something a little worse, they're not going to be their usual energetic, happy selves. Among the many side effects of illness is a loss of appetite.

We've all been there, right? It's hard to think about food when we don't have the energy to get out of bed, when we're chilled and tired and sore, or worse, when even the barest sips of water make us want to vomit.

Dogs can feel the same way, but since they don't have the high cognition required to know they need to eat, even if it's unpleasant, it's even more miserable for them.

When your precious fur baby is having a hard time getting and keeping food down, what can you do to help? Are there ways you can stimulate their appetites and get them to eat more? And when should you be concerned enough to take them to the vet? Let's dig in.

When Food Aversion is Concerning

Let's start with the most worrisome part: when is food aversion bad enough to warrant a trip to the vet?

A lot of different things can cause your pooch to avoid eating, even if they're normally voracious eaters who you practically have to stop before they eat the bowl, too.

• Stomach distress is the most common. This can be caused by a stomach bug like the flu, or it can be because they ate something they shouldn't, and it's irritating them. In extreme cases, it can cause something more dangerous, like a bowel obstruction that needs medical attention to address.
• Dehydration. If it's hot out and your furry child won't stop running around, no matter how much they pant and need to collapse in the shade, it's possible they end up dehydrated. In these cases, your pooch might not be interested in food because their primary desire is water. Make sure they have enough water in them to be able to handle and have an interest in food.
• Picky eating. Some dogs turn their noses up at certain kinds of food. Some will even change their preferences over time, especially as they get older. If they've been used to one food and you're trying to give them something else, the change might be enough to put them off, at least for a few hours.
• Dental issues. A sore tooth, abscess, or other issue with the jaw can make it unpleasant to eat. Sometimes, they'll eat despite the pain, and you'll notice whining while they chew. Other times, they'll simply refuse; it hurts too much to consider it.
• Stress. In stressful situations, the body does all kinds of things, including pumping in a bunch of hormones that skew behavior. For a dog, stress can be anything from a major life-altering event to just a new schedule for their day, and it can throw them off that they might not eat at their regular time.
• Medications. Some medications have appetite reduction as a side effect. It may or may not happen, and if it does, it may or may not be significant, but any time your dog is put on a new medication, your vet should warn you if they might have a lack of appetite because of it.
• Systemic diseases. Things like pancreatitis, cancer, kidney disease, and other diseases can have wide-reaching effects, including appetite suppression. Obviously, these are the worst-case scenarios and should be addressed by a vet ASAP.
• Aging. Older dogs likely aren't going to eat as much as younger dogs, regardless of whether or not they're ill. They're also sore and tired old friends, and they're not spending as much energy, so it's not as much of a cause for concern as long as they're eating some, occasionally.

So, when should you take your poor, hungry fur baby to the vet?

If your pooch simply doesn't want to eat at dinnertime and skips the meal, it means there's something to watch for and a few things to check, but it's probably not concerning. If they wolf down breakfast like they haven't eaten in a week, whatever was bothering them has passed, and they're fine.

If they skip meals for a day, and especially if they look a little lethargic or under the weather, they may be coming down with an illness. Check for the signs of more dangerous illnesses, but if it's just for a day, all you really need to do is monitor them and see if they feel better the next day.

If your fur baby is skipping meals for two days, then you should be concerned enough to bring them in to the vet. You can often identify the broad category of why they aren't eating – whether from pain, from obvious illness or from something else – and can determine when to take them in accordingly.

How to Get a Sick Pup to Eat

If your fur baby doesn't want to eat but clearly needs to, there are ways you might be able to make food more attractive to them or more palatable and help them get it down. Even a little bit of food is better than nothing and can help hold you and your fur baby over until a vet appointment. Here are some options you can try.

Mix in a high-value food.

When your fur baby is sick, they probably don't find their usual kibble to be very attractive at all. And really, who would blame them? Hard little pellets of nondescript food material aren't very interesting. One of the most common ways to help your furry child eat is to mix in a little bit of something more attractive to them. We're talking flavorful, with an incredible aroma, something they'll love. Chicken, beef, and even a bit of bacon can be perfect here.

Ideally, you want to avoid something too fatty because fat can cause digestive issues. If you go with bacon, cook it well and drain the fat before mixing it in. Same with beef, get a lean cut or drain the fat first. Chicken is fine on its own, but a flavorful rotisserie chicken is often better than plain old chicken. Just make sure to pull off the skin and don't leave bones in the bowl.

Ideally, the more potent and attractive treat mixed into their food will get them to eat it. If they still turn their nose up at it, you should definitely be considering that emergency vet trip.

Relatedly, you can also try a treat. If you aren't ready or willing to give them a whole bowl of high-value food, giving them a treat or two might be enough to stimulate them into eating. It's more about the reminder that food is good than it is about the flavors and scents. Just be careful; you don't want to accidentally train your pooch to avoid eating in favor of treats.

Try a softer food.

If your fur baby isn't eating because of some kind of pain in their mouth or teeth, the idea of chewing through hard little kibbles will be enough to dissuade them from even trying to eat. If you've ever had a bad toothache, you probably know exactly what's going through their heads.

The obvious solution here is to try soft foods. You have a few ways to do this. First, you can soften their kibble by mixing in some water or a simple broth and letting it soak in. A softer kibble is an easier-to-eat kibble. Second, you can use a softer base food, like ground or minced beef or chicken. In a pinch, you can even try something like cooked and mashed carrots or even baby food if you want to buy some or have it on hand.

Warning: if you want to use broth to help stimulate your fur baby's appetite, make sure you get a healthy kind of broth. Many broths are made for humans and include ingredients like high sodium, onions, garlic, and some spices that can be dangerous for dogs. Try to get a broth without these, or in a pinch, make your own.

Similarly, you can heat up their food a bit. Warming up their food can make it more aromatic, which might not be pleasant for you or your microwave but can make it more appealing to their furry senses. Pouring some warm water or broth into their kibble to soften it can get you the best of both worlds.

If your fur baby goes for it, this can also give you a good idea of why they're averse to food, and you can get them in for a dental check-up ASAP. You don't want a dental injury to fester, after all.

Try a bit of exercise.

Illness feeds back into itself. When you're sick, you don't feel good, you don't have energy, and it can even hurt to move. But, the less you move around, the more stagnant you get, the less healthy your overall system is, and the more an illness can fester. The same, of course, holds true for our canine companions as well.

So, try to take your fur baby on a walk. Even something as simple as a slow meander around the yard can be enough to get them up and moving, circulate their blood, get their juices flowing, get them to go potty, and generally encourage their system to move. There's a reasonable chance that a walk – and the longer, the better – can stimulate their appetite enough to get them to eat, even if it's just half their usual meal.

Give hand-feeding a try.

Another option is to turn the illness into a bit of comfort and bonding by curling up on the floor with your pooch and a bowl of food and hand-feeding them a couple of kibbles at a time. The process of hand-feeding can be comforting enough to get them to try to eat, and once they get a little food in them, their hunger may come back and they'll get to eating out of the bowl there with you.

In more extreme cases, you may need to get a liquid kind of food and hand-feed your fur baby with a syringe. Usually, though, if you've reached this point, you should be taking them to the vet (an IV with nutrients will be more effective) rather than trying to manage such a severe issue at home.

Vet-prescribed appetite stimulants can help.

If your fur baby won't eat and is clearly ill, you may want to take them to the vet regardless. Your vet can prescribe certain medicinal appetite stimulants. This can also work to counteract the appetite suppressant effects of other medications, as necessary. Specific medications can include mirtazapine, meclizine, and ghrelin receptor agonists.

Another more medicinal option is trying some CBD drops. CBD has the potential to both ease pain and stimulate the appetite of your fur baby.

Canine CBD is made from hemp, is safe and non-toxic, and can be found in peanut butter-flavored tinctures for maximum attractiveness to your fur baby. Make sure you give them the proper dosage, and see if it helps make them hungrier. With luck, an application or two might be all you need to get the ball rolling, and the infusion of nutrients will then help them fight off whatever is making them ill.

Whatever options you choose, there are a lot of different ways to help encourage your furry companion to eat. It's only if they continually resist all efforts to feed them, or they can't keep food down at all, or if they have signs of more serious illness that you should rush them to the vet. Hopefully, that's not the case for you.

After reading today's article, do you have any questions? If you do, please feel free to let me know in the comments section! I'm always more than happy to help you all out however I can!

It's an unfortunate fact that not all cats and dogs have pet parents to care for them. In particular, stray cats can be found in pretty much every location around the world, making a living for themselves hunting rodents, lounging in barns, and approaching the friendliest neighbors – cautiously – when they want something.

Most neighborhoods have a few people who are willing to feed and care for these stray kitties, but it's important that you do it properly. Otherwise, you could be putting them at risk. So, what should you do, what should you avoid, and what's the best way to care for our outside friends when we can't just adopt them and bring them in?

Quick Definition: Stray vs Feral

Throughout this post, I'm going to refer to both stray and feral cats. Many people use both terms interchangeably, but there's actually an important difference.

Stray cats are generally friendly and, while they may be shy or skittish, can warm up to you and come in for affection. They may be lost pets, abandoned and unwanted litters, or just neighborhood outdoor cats that like to hang out with the other strays. These may have homes and may even have microchips and can be reunited, or they might just be prime candidates for adoption.

Ferals, meanwhile, have never been domesticated and are generally very skittish, standoffish, and aggressive. While some can be adopted and eventually warm up to people, most won't want anything to do with you beyond the food and water you provide.

Otherwise, most of the tips and best practices below are the same, so you can think of them in the same terms.

Know the Risks of Feeding Stray Cats

The biggest thing you need to know about feeding stray cats is what the risks are and how you can avoid them.

First is disease. Disease is one of the greatest dangers that stray and feral cats face living on their own. Diseases can spread quickly in a cat colony, and since there's no one who can take them to the vet when they have the sniffles or the runs, those diseases can last for quite a while. Some run their course, but others can be life-threatening or fatal.

It's in our nature to want to help these fur babies, but it's difficult to do so, especially if they're feral and won't approach you. You'll have a hard time catching them to bring them in, and there's always the expense of veterinary care for animals who don't live with you.

This is all relevant to feeding because diseases can spread due to food and water sources as much as through contact. One of the biggest things you should do is designate feeding times and never leave food out for extended periods. The same goes for water; the colony or the stray will need a source of water, but stagnant water – especially if it's shared by multiple felines – can be a vector for disease.

Next up is the risk of predators. Depending on where you live, there could be anything from mountain lions to coyotes to even bears in the area. Leaving food out attracts more than just the cat colony, and the cat colony can attract predators. Know what's in your area, and if a predator is lurking about, talk to your local animal control or DNR office for options.

Third, you have the risk of human sources of danger. This can mean an irate, unfriendly neighbor who doesn't take kindly to the local cats, but the majority of the time, it just means cars. The location you choose to use for feeding should be away from roads and ideally in the same block or area as the place where the cats tend to take shelter; you want to minimize their road crossings when you can.

Finally, there's also the small risk to you and your fur babies. Stray cats are usually more affectionate, though they might be territorial and get into scuffles with other pets. Ferals, meanwhile, are much more territorial, defensive, and potentially aggressive and can even scratch or bite you if you get too close. Be cautious, and make sure to get any wounds looked at in case they get infected.

What if a neighbor's cat comes to eat?

This one is tricky. You want to help support the local stray and feral cats, but you don't want to get in the way of a controlled diet or other health concerns for neighbor cats. But, it can be impossible to single out one cat from a group and tell it not to join in the buffet, after all.

Ideally, the best option is to talk to your neighbor about the issue and encourage them to keep their cat inside when you're feeding the strays. But this is always a tricky problem to handle, so just do your best.

Food and Water: Proper Routine and Care for Stray Cats

The core of the issue is providing food and water for the cats you find in your neighborhood. Frequently, you see people leaving food out all hours of the day, but that's actually not a good idea for a few reasons.

First, when you leave food out for an extended period, it can go bad. Dry food can get soggy and rot, although wet food spoils very quickly. It can also attract bugs, including parasites that would harm the local strays. And, of course, leaving food out – particularly at night – can attract other kinds of animals, like possums and raccoons, who will be more than happy to make nuisances of themselves to claim the food.

Instead, establish a feeding routine. Most stray cats need about half an hour to eat, but you can allocate a bit more time, including extra leeway, if there's a larger cat colony rather than just a single stray to feed. So, pick a time when you can reliably provide food every day, and pick a location (which I'll go into more momentarily.)

From there, you need to start feeding the cats according to their preferences. Some cats won't want you around, while others won't mind. Ideally, you'll be able to observe them and can look for signs of illness or injury. Feeding time is a key time to check on the health of the local outdoor cat population.

What should you feed the cats? That depends on your resources and the local weather. In the summer, when it's hot, wet food will spoil rapidly and can dry out quickly. Dry food is more resistant to summer bugs and weather and ends up being a better option. In more temperate months, wet food is more acceptable, though the expense involved can make it less than ideal for a larger colony of stray and feral cats.

Truthfully, dry food is entirely nutritious enough for cats to live on, and they're probably supplementing their food with local rodents and birds anyway. You don't need to provide wet food for stray cats unless, for some reason, they won't eat dry food at all. However, in that case, they likely have some kind of problem (like a tooth infection) and should be caught and taken to a vet as well.

Location, location, location.

Picking the right location to feed your local strays is a big part of keeping them safe. You want somewhere away from roads and busy streets. You want somewhere on your property – since you don't want to get into trouble for trespassing to feed cats – and it should be somewhere relatively discreet and secure. Often, old sheds or barns make for good feeding areas. Shelter is ideal, but you can also make feeding stations out of plastic storage containers with a hole cut in the side, so they have somewhere secure and dry to eat.

Cats are also frequently creatures of habit, so you want to pick a time each day – during daylight hours – to feed the cats. Once they know where food is and when you bring it, they'll form a habit of coming when you show up or being there waiting for you, depending on how friendly they are.

What about water?

Fresh water is critical for all living things, and stray cats are no exception. There are a lot of different ways to provide clean water, but the easiest is just a series of water dishes that you empty and refill daily and clean regularly.

If it gets below freezing where you live, you may also want to find an insulated, warmer place for the water or purchase heated water bowls to keep the water liquid for the cats.

Is it Ethical or Legal to Feed Stray Cats?

We're all compassionate individuals, but many people feel that stray cats and feral cats are a nuisance and a pest. And, to be fair to those people, outdoor-living cats are responsible for a marked reduction in local bird populations. They can be noisy, they can bully the neighborhood's indoor/outdoor cat population, and in rare cases, an aggressive cat can cause more problems. They can even attract predators to a neighborhood.

There are solutions to all of these problems, but that doesn't mean people don't try to take matters into their own hands in other ways. So, let's go over the realities of the situation.

Is it ethical to feed stray and feral cats? Well, yes, mostly. Stray cats certainly impact the local ecosystem, but they're going to do that either way and by feeding them, you at least help reduce their need to hunt for food. No one likes to see an animal suffer, either, so helping stray cats not starve is good.

Is it legal to feed stray cats? That's where things get a little more complicated. It's not federally illegal, and as far as I'm aware, there are no state-level bans on feeding stray and feral cats. There may be city or town-level laws against it, but 99% of the time, the authority that bans feeding is a homeowner's association. Even then, you may be able to convince them otherwise. How? By presenting them with the research.

According to Feline Research, feeding stray and feral cats is a key step in solving basically every problem people complain about with regard to feeding.

• "Feeding strays will attract more, keep them around being a nuisance, and bother people!" Well, not really. Feeding stray cats actually helps keep them out of trouble since they don't get as desperate and don't need to dig through other homes or bug other people. It isn't as though those cats are going to go away; they'll just turn to other options.
• "Feeding attracts more strays, and more strays means more risk of injury as the cats fight!" Again, not really. One of the main reasons cats fight is over resources, and stray cats have no greater resource than a source of food. When there's enough food for everyone, the conflict goes down.
• "Encouraging a stray cat population hurts the local wildlife and can spread disease!" While this is technically true, it ignores the fact that there's more to it than just feeding these cats. You should also be working with local animal authorities for TNVR programs (more on that in a moment).
• "Feeding cats encourages them to gather, breed, and make more cats, causing a population explosion and hurting them all!" This is true if all you're doing is feeding them, but again, TNVR.

What is TNVR? TNVR stands for Trap, Neuter, Vaccinate, and Release. Most areas have local vets and animal shelters that participate in these programs. The concept is simple: you feed the strays and get them to be comfortable enough around you to be trapped, or for the more skittish ferals, you get them used to a particular area, then set up a trap and bring them in. Then, you bring them to your local vet or shelter, who will check them for chips, give them vaccines, perform a spay or neutering, and when they've recovered, release them back where they were.

The vaccination helps prevent the spread of feline diseases, and the spay/neuter surgery helps prevent them from making more stray cats. Plus, the more sociable of these cats can be kept around and adopted, and it's always possible you'll find a lost pet with a chip and can reunite them with their pet parents.

So, should you feed the local stray fur babies? The answer is yes, as long as you aren't going to get in trouble with your HOA (or you're willing to deal with that trouble), and you will help with local TNVR efforts.

Have you ever fed a stray cat before? If so, what was your experience like, and how did you go about it? I'd love to hear all your stories, so be sure to leave those in the comments section down below!

Many of you, though, have another question: do they work for our doggos as well? It's a complicated question, so let's go through it together.

What Are Probiotics and Why Are They Good?

First of all, what even are probiotics? You've probably heard of them in terms of food, like probiotic drinks or yogurt. You might also have seen them on pharmacy shelves as probiotic supplements. Well, the answer is pretty simple: probiotics are bacteria.

Before you get worried about infections or anything, it's worth remembering that bacteria are everywhere. They're on every surface, in the air, on our skin, and even inside us. Especially inside us, really. Our guts – from the stomach to the intestines to the colon – are packed full of bacteria.

The thing is, most of the bacteria in our bodies are good for us. They help break down the things we eat so we can get energy and nutrients from things we otherwise wouldn't be able to digest. There's also a lot that medical science doesn't even know about how they work. There's evidence to suggest that the bacteria in our gut – also known as gut flora or our gut microbiome – can impact things like mental health and much more. One thing's for sure: these bacteria are friends.

Of course, the gut is also full of bad bacteria. Normally, bad bacteria are kept in check through a few different ways. They're outcompeted by the good bacteria; we don't feed them as much as we feed the good bacteria, and our immune systems can fight them off, too.

Sometimes, though, things go out of whack. If you get sick, your immune system might be busy elsewhere, allowing bad gut bacteria to flourish. If you eat a diet of heavily processed garbage and tons of sugar rather than vegetables and fiber, you're feeding the bad bacteria more than the good bacteria. Taking antibiotics as part of a medical treatment can also wipe out everything in the gut, and the bad bacteria might come back faster than the good bacteria.

That's where probiotics come in. Probiotics come in two forms: food and supplements.

Probiotic food is food that contains these good bacteria. They're usually fermented foods, like yogurt, kefir, sauerkraut, and kimchi. They're tasty, they're healthy to eat, and they add more good bacteria to your gut to help promote those good colonies while getting rid of the bad bacteria.

Probiotic supplements are just capsules filled with the bacteria. If you can't handle the food or don't like the taste, a probiotic supplement can work just as well, if not better. They're also a great way to help combat the purging effects of antibiotics, bolster the good bacteria, and let the bad bacteria die off.

In humans, probiotics are generally two kinds of bacteria: lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium. There are a bunch of species within these two types, but that's not really important right now.

What About Prebiotics?

A related term you may have heard is "prebiotics." If antibiotics kill off bacteria, and probiotics contain and promote those bacteria, what are prebiotics? Well, they're the things that come before the bacteria. That is, it's the food for the bacteria.

In humans, good bacteria generally thrive on fiber, which is why doctors often tell us to get more fiber in our diets. In dogs, that's not quite the case. Prebiotics for dogs include many of the nutrients dogs normally need, which works out great! They're already there in good dog food.

You generally shouldn't need to go out of your way to give your dog special prebiotics unless you've been feeding them food that doesn't have everything they need in it.

Can Your Dog Take Your Probiotics?

So, if probiotics are good for you, are they good for your dog too?

Unfortunately, not really.

Dogs are living creatures with digestive systems that work in more or less the same way as humans. They eat food. Digestive enzymes, stomach acid, and bacteria in the gut all process that food, breaking it down into nutrients their bodies can use and other stuff they can't. The stuff they use is absorbed and used or stored for later, and the stuff they can't is expelled. So far, so good.

The difference is, well, dogs aren't human. Their bodies need different sets of nutrients and different balances of vitamins and minerals. Things that are toxic to us are fine for them, and things that are fine for us are toxic to them. They don't work the same way.

Humans evolved to have a symbiotic relationship with the good bacteria I listed above. Dogs, though, didn't. They DO have good bacteria in their guts, but they have different good bacteria.

Dog gut bacteria – the good ones – include enterococcus faecium and bacillus coagulans. The first helps with coat health and digestive troubles, while the second helps eliminate diarrhea and IBS.

These aren't the only good bacteria that call your fur baby home; they're just some of the more common species.

Are Probiotics Harmful to Dogs?

Not really.

Bacteria can be tricky. The truth is that human probiotics thrive off the things we humans generally eat. Meanwhile, dog probiotics thrive off of the things dogs normally eat. If you feed a dog human probiotics, those probiotics aren't going to live for very long because they don't have much in the way of food.

Dog stomachs are also more acidic than ours, and their guts are shorter from end to end, so the bacteria don't have as much time to flourish; they'll just be digested and expelled.

So, if you give your fur baby some of your probiotics – or they get into a tub of yogurt or sauerkraut and gulp it down – it isn't really going to hurt them. It just won't do them any good, and it might cause them some mild digestive distress.

Important note: be sure to check the ingredients of any probiotic your dog eats when they shouldn't. For example, some yogurts swap out added sugar for xylitol as a sweetener. Xylitol, as you likely know, is toxic to dogs, so while the probiotic yogurt isn't harmful, the xylitol is.

Are There Canine Probiotics?

Yes!

As I mentioned above, there are specific bacteria that have been isolated as the probiotics of the dog world.

The biggest difference is that they're generally only available in the form of supplements. There's no "dog yogurt" made with dog-friendly gut bacteria because those bacteria don't eat the same kinds of things and won't have the same effect on fermentation.

Supplements are the best way to get these probiotics for a dog.

Note: there are a handful of foods and treats on the market that claim to be probiotics and may even list the bacteria they contain as part of their ingredients. While they may include those bacteria, they may not actually be probiotics.

The reason is processing. Bacteria need to be alive to reproduce and thrive. Cooking a food into a shelf-stable kibble or processing it into a treat is likely to kill off that bacteria, simply as part of the process of preventing bad bacteria from reproducing in the same environment.

If you want food or treats with probiotics in them, you need something that isn't baked or processed, which can be harder to find. Some exist, but you should check for independent lab verification of the probiotics they contain, not just trust a label.

Fortunately, canine probiotics are both generally inexpensive and are available over the counter. You don't need a vet's prescription to get them.

What Are the Benefits of Probiotics for Dogs?

So, now that you know what probiotics are (and more or less how they can be beneficial in broad strokes), what are the actual specific benefits of probiotics for dogs?

Truthfully, there are a lot, but they all come down to one thing: digestion.

Probiotics help smooth out the digestive process. In dogs, that means they'll be more regular and have more consistent bowel movements, and they'll be less likely to have diarrhea or other digestive upsets.

There are also a bunch of secondary benefits. With healthy, beneficial bacteria dominating their digestive systems, their immune systems don't have to worry so much about bad bacteria in the gut and can take it easier, and be stronger if something else comes along. They'll be a bit more resistant to getting sick.

You can also consider a secondary benefit related to stress. If their tummy doesn't hurt, they aren't going to be as stressed out, right? Stress relief and anxiety relief are both great benefits of probiotics.

Finally, probiotics counteract antibiotic side effects. So, if your fur baby is sick with an infection and needs systemic antibiotics (as opposed to antibiotic creams or ointments), then probiotics can help them recover that much faster.

Does Your Fur Baby Need Probiotics?

So, does your fur baby even need probiotics? There are two schools of thought on this question.

The first is that probiotics should be a passive supplement. They aren't harmful, and if a dog gets too much of them, they'll just excrete them. So, there's no real harm that can be done from having too many probiotics, but having too few bacteria can be harmful. Why not include a probiotic supplement as part of your fur baby's daily routine?

While this is a reasonable school of thought, it's not strictly necessary. If your dog is healthy and isn't stressed out, chances are they'll be fine with their digestive system the way it is. You can give them a supplement, but that supplement isn't going to do much, and you're spending money on it. While probiotics aren't terribly expensive, they also aren't free; that added cost can tally up over time.

The other school of thought is to watch for signs that your fur baby might need probiotics and give them when necessary. So, when might that be?

• When they're stressed, or likely to become stressed, such as in the days leading up to the 4th of July or after a big move that uproots their daily patterns.
• When they're suffering from some sort of digestive upset, whether they ate something they shouldn't have and it's going through them with a little difficulty, or they've got the canine equivalent of the stomach flu.
• When they have signs of something wrong in their digestive system, like foul breath, bad gas, or bloating. Even if it's not terribly bad, it can be a sign of something operating at less than 100%.

All of these are good causes for giving your fur baby some probiotics. You can give them some each day according to the dosage instructions on whatever kind of probiotic you get and keep going until they're no longer suffering from the ill effects of whatever befell them.

The final reason to give a dog probiotics is, of course, when they're on or finishing up a course of antibiotics. It's not likely necessary if you're just giving them antibiotic eyedrops, eardrops, or a cream for a skin infection, but if they're getting systemic antibiotics, it's going to wipe out their gut flora entirely. In that case, giving them probiotics to counteract that negative side effect can help their recovery go much quicker.

There's a third school of thought, which is that probiotics should only be given on a vet's recommendations. Truthfully, this is basically going to limit them to just that final reason, as a post-hoc treatment for antibiotic side effects. If you're concerned, though, make sure to talk to your vet about whether or not probiotics are a good choice for your doggo.

What about you? What's your school of thought? Do you give your fur baby probiotics, and if so, what kind? Have you noticed a positive effect? How often do you give them? I want to know all about your experiences, so you can share them with me and everyone else right here in the comments!

At least, that is, when they aren't in playtime mode, just hunting for the joy of hunting, and they aren't making mistakes, slipping on the hardwood, sliding into walls, or missing the mark entirely.

Alright, so our fur babies aren't always the ferocious predators they were when they first evolved. But that's okay! We love them and pamper them just the same. They no longer need to hunt for their very survival every day.

Of course, this really makes you think. Are they losing out or missing something?

Truthfully, the answer is… maybe.

The Perils of the Modern Feline Diet

As it stands right now, our fur babies don't need to hunt for food, but that doesn't mean they're satisfied with what they get. When we buy food off the shelves, whether it's dry food or canned wet food, we do our best to make sure they're getting what they need.

The trouble is, all too often, these foods aren't quite right. They may have fillers in them that your cat can't quite digest or that they digest but aren't really very healthy for them. That's not even considering the issues with contaminated foods or foods where the manufacturers cut corners. We're talking about the higher-quality foods here.

In fact, two of the most common diseases our feline friends suffer from today are linked to their diets.

• Obesity. It's easy to over-feed and over-eat, and cats – who aren't used to the fillers and additives in the foods, the caloric density, and the ingredients themselves – put on more weight than they would in nature. Moreover, without needing to hunt for it, they don't necessarily burn as many of those calories, so they build up and lead to an overweight feline. Sadly, as funny and adorable as a chonker is, it's not healthy or good for them.
• Diabetes mellitus. Diabetes is a problem with processing blood sugar, and it's an epidemic amongst many different species, including both people and cats. Cats are obligate carnivores – they have to eat meat to survive – and that means they're more susceptible to fillers and carbohydrates in their food causing problems with insulin, leading to diabetes.

Since these diseases are so tied to diet and they're so common, vets and scientists have been spending a lot of time studying how cats eat naturally to see if there are ways we can improve their diets to help eliminate the risk of these diseases.

"Carbohydrate levels in commercial diets are often much too high. Cats have not evolved to digest high amounts of starches, only obtaining a small amount of partially digested matter from the stomach contents of their prey. They have insufficient enzymes in their saliva and pancreas glands to process these complex sugars, and will often overeat, leading to a multitude of problems." – NP Vet Group.

What Natural Feeding Isn't

Natural feeding is a response to the artificial diets we've been feeding cats as a society for decades, but there can be some misconceptions around the name. So, first, let's talk a bit about what natural feeding isn't before we get into what it is.

Some people think that natural feeding involves buying prey animals to let your cat hunt and eat on their own. People buy "pinkies" for snakes and lizards, after all. Isn't it the same sort of thing for cats?

Well, not really. For one thing, pinkies – which are baby mice, named such because they don't even have fur yet – are already dead. Cats hunt things that are alive and moving and aren't going to put much effort into or have much interest in already dead food. They'll eat it if they have to, but it's not the kind of natural hunting you might think of when you think of a cat stalking prey.

There are also the ethical considerations. Most people don't think twice about the source of the ingredients in their cat's food, but when you're buying animals to feed to your cat, the abstraction is removed, and you see it in front of you, and it might not feel very good. Of course, imposing human ethics on nature isn't always a good idea. That's how you end up with bad cat parents forcing their felines to go vegan, and that's a terrible idea.

Fortunately, natural feeding doesn't actually involve hunting at all. It's all about what you feed, not how you feed.

Besides, natural hunting for cats is also full of risks.

• Prey can fight back. Birds have beaks and talons, rodents can bite and scratch, and insects can sting. Every hunt is a risk, and cats in the wild are routinely injured in the hunt. Even small injuries can result in infections as well. Obviously, we don't want that for our domestic felines.
• Prey can carry diseases and parasites. While you wouldn't get this if you were buying food-bred prey animals for your cat, cats in the wild are always at risk of eating something that gives them worms, fleas, or another disease.

Luckily, this isn't what we mean when we talk about natural feeding at all.

Natural feeding also doesn’t automatically mean raw feeding, though it is an option. We’ll get into that more later.

How Natural Feeding for Cats Works

Natural feeding is all about coming up with a diet that most closely mimics what a cat needs to be healthy, based on two things: habits and content.

Habits mean how they eat. We humans tend to eat 2-3 big meals in a day, or one big meal and snacks throughout the day. That's not necessarily natural; as hunter-gatherers, we likely foraged and ate small amounts throughout the day, with "big meals" being a rarity.

While cats often live in colonies, they are solo hunters, and they are used to having a warm meal.

They also tend to hunt whenever the opportunity strikes, and since their prey is small, they frequently need to hunt multiple times in a day. Hunts also fail, and the prey gets away. Combined, this means that cats are similar in that they would eat smaller, more frequent meals than we people usually give them.

Content means what they eat. Cats, being obligate carnivores, get all the nutrients they need from a combination of protein and fat – that is to say, meat. Very little of what they eat involves carbohydrates or dietary fiber, and while they'll certainly chew on grass and plants for both flavor and digestive purposes, it's a very small part of their diet.

"One study looked at how feral cats get their food. It showed that a "typical" feral cat will kill and eat approximately nine mice throughout the day, with a number of unsuccessful hunts scattered in as well. Another paper revealed that feral cats got 52% of their calories from protein and 46% from fat, which only leaves 2% available to come from carbohydrates.

So, left to their own devices, cats will eat multiple small meals throughout the day that are high in protein, high in fat, and low in carbohydrates. But that's not all. These cats have to work to get their food. Their behavior is characterized by periods of rest broken up by short bursts of relatively intense activity." - PetMD.

Another part of feeding, water consumption. While cats in the wild get most of their water content from the food they eat, when they do drink, they naturally avoid stagnant water to avoid illness. The moving water that they choose is not confined to a small bowl, which for some cats can cause whisker fatigue.

So, natural feeding means feeding your cat smaller, more frequent meals and making sure the food they eat is nutritionally balanced for their needs. You want a food that's high in protein, moderately high in fat, and very low in carbohydrates.

You have two options here: you can make your own cat food, or you can buy a food designed with natural feeding in mind. Even "good" commercial cat foods tend to be higher in carbohydrates than a cat should really have, though, so it can be tricky to find something good for your furry friend. Wet food is also preferable because cats get a lot of their water requirements from it and might not drink enough if they primarily eat kibble and dry foods.

Key Takeaways for Naturally Feeding Your Cat

• Provide smaller, more frequent meals
• Feed a high meat-based protein, moderate fat, and low carbohydrate food
• Serve the meal slightly warmed
• Have a good play session before each meal
• Provide a water fountain for fresh moving water

Building a Healthy Natural Feeding Meal

Odds are you have a job and maybe a family to tend to, so becoming a servant to your cat (well more than you already are) can be a challenge.

If you have the time and financial means you may want to consider switching from a traditional canned wet food to a raw or homemade diet. Natural feeding isn’t an all or nothing concept, you can always make small changes to your feeding process.

Given a cat’s need for a high protein diet, I don’t recommend feeding dry food, though it can be a great option to use as a treat since it’s lower in calories compared to traditional treats.

Raw and Homemade Diets

Unsurprisingly, a lot goes into a healthy diet for your fur baby. Unfortunately, many people think meat is meat and assume a ground chicken, turkey, or beef from the grocery store is going to be good enough. Even store-bought fish isn't good enough on its own.

"Many people mistake raw pet meats and minces available from their supermarket or pet shop as being a complete food. This is often not the case, with many just being minced muscle meat only, severely lacking in the important minerals and vitamins required to keep a cat healthy. This puts your cat at risk of developing nutritional diseases. Some pet minces also contain sulphur-based preservatives, which not only have been linked to asthma in cats but also inactivate some important B vitamins. Fish also contains some enzymes which can reduce the availability of essential thiamine in the diet." – NP Vet Group.

So, what do you do?

Rotate through different meats throughout the week. Chicken and fish are both good options and for a third, you might consider locating a source of something like rabbit or even a "pest" meat like possum or a rodent. If you can't find it, that's fine, but you'll want to keep to a lower amount of beef or pork than you would the meats your cat would be more likely to encounter in the wild.

See if you can source whole meats instead of just muscle meats. A working relationship with a butcher can be great here. Your goal would be to get ground meat that has calcium from ground bones in it and nutrient-rich marrow as well. You won't find this for human consumption, though.

Get your cat started on raw "meaty bones" occasionally. The two most common and useful here are chicken wings and chicken necks. The bones are just the right size that your cat can strip the meat off them without risking hurting themselves chewing on the bones, and raw bones aren't as splintery or prone to danger as cooked bones.

Add in some organ meat from time to time. Heart meat is great for cats – it's high in taurine, a nutrient cats need to live. Liver, meanwhile, can be dangerous in high amounts, so only give your cat a little bit at a time.

Other tips:

• Make your cat food regularly. Keeping it frozen for too long reduces its nutrient profile, particularly in vitamins.
• Don't leave food out for long. Meat goes bad, obviously, and you don't want to have a bowl of rotting meat sitting around.
• Avoid meats with preservatives, especially if you're starting with ground meats or minces. It can be worthwhile to invest in a food processor or meat grinder yourself instead.
• Take it slow. Adapting a cat from a kibble diet to a natural feeding diet can be time-consuming if they don't take to it right away. You may also need to lightly poach or cook the meat initially.
• Add in supplements or meal completers. It’s incredibly important to ensure your kitty is getting all of the nutrients necessary to keep their body operating in optimal form, so if their raw diet is lacking in any area, be sure to supplement their food. Some common supplements include, vitamin E, fiber, omega 3, and taurine.

WARNING: Feeding a raw diet can introduce harmful bacteria into your household including, but not limited to salmonella and listeria. If you opt to feed a raw diet to your kitty, ensure you practice impeccable food safety practices when handling all meat. You’ll also want to ensure you only purchase high quality, fresh meat, as bacteria and germs can flourish in uncooked meat.

Commercially Prepared Diets

I’m including this section, because as I noted above, a natural diet doesn’t have to be all or nothing.

If you’re currently feeding dry only, add wet food into the mix, or if you can, transition primarily or fully to wet food.

Canned wet foods come in many different levels of quality, so before picking one it’s important to read the label. Remember you’re looking for a wet food that is primarily animal protein based, which means at the very least, the first ingredient should be an animal source.

There are also some freshly prepared cooked options available through mail order. These meals are a great alternative if you don’t have time to make a homemade diet as they already include the necessary nutrients to ensure your kitty is getting a balanced diet.

Fresh meals also tend to be made in small batches right here in the US but be sure to learn about the quality and source of the ingredients.

Above all, though, make sure you talk to a vet about this potential dietary shift. Some cats, especially older cats with health issues or a predilection for them, may need special care when shifting to a natural feeding diet. Others may need special supplements or medications to help keep them healthy, particularly those who normally eat special formulated foods.

Natural feeding can be a great way to keep a cat happier and healthier and give them a longer and more fulfilling life. So, if you're interested in learning more about natural feeding diets, there are plenty of resources available. And if you have any questions, feel free to ask me in the comments!

So, what happens if you find a tick on your poor pupper?

Chances are, they haven't even really noticed, so it's up to you to do something about it. Here's a five-step process on how to deal with a tick on your dog.

Inspecting Your Pup for Ticks

Often times pet parents will find a tick when they feel a mysterious bump that wasn’t previously there.

It’s recommended that you inspect your pup after each walk. I get it, that’s a lot to ask. A more reasonable recommendation is to inspect your pup anytime they are romping around in tall grass, and after hikes through wooded areas.

Ticks that transmit disease do so after different periods of time. Diseases such as Lyme usually require a tick to be attached for more than 24 hours, so time is of the essence in locating those little buggers.

There are several spots ticks will likely take up residence, so pay particularly close attention to the following locations when inspecting your pup for ticks:

Step 1: Gather Materials

Removing a tick is generally pretty easy, but you want to have some items on hand to make it easier, safer, and faster. The key here is having supplies on hand before you actually need them. Think of it like a first aid kit for your pup.

First, you want something to remove a tick. There are a bunch of different tools to do this, which I'll talk about in the next step, but if you don’t have one, you can just use tweezers.

You'll also want something to protect yourself from potential tick-borne illnesses. Inexpensive disposable latex gloves are great to have on hand for all sorts of reasons, and in this case they can protect you from touching the tick or from it biting you after you remove it.

You'll want a resealable baggy you can seal up, along with some damp paper towel. This will help you preserve the tick so you can bring it to your vet for testing and to identify whether or not it's carrying diseases.

Finally, you'll want some aftercare materials, like soap or an antiseptic, to help make sure the bite doesn't get infected. If you go the antiseptic route, make sure it’s made for dogs.

You may also want to have a treat on hand in case your fur baby doesn't want to sit still or is stressed out by you messing with that irritating bite on their skin. A little bribe or distraction can go a long way to getting your pup to stay still.

Step 2: Remove the Tick

There are a lot of different ways to remove ticks.

I'll talk about a few different options here, as well as some things you should avoid doing.

The Tweezer Method

Perhaps the most common way to remove a tick from your fur baby is to use tweezers. We all have tweezers floating around for the stray splinter, bee stinger, or other object caught in the skin, and a tick is not so different.

It’s important to note that you should use fine tipped tweezers, not the wider versions that are often used to pluck eye brows or remove splinters.

To use tweezers to remove a tick, follow this process.

• Pull fur back and away from the tick so you have as clear a view of it as possible. It's not going to try to run and hide; it's latched onto the skin where it sits. You want to avoid pulling fur along with the tick.
• Place the tweezers around the tick’s head as close to the skin as possible. 
• Grasp firmly, but don't squeeze too hard. You don't want to squish or rupture the tick.
• Pull straight out and away from the skin to remove the tick.

Do not twist as you pull. You want to remove the tick as completely and cleanly as possible, and you want to avoid forcing it to vomit it’s stomach contents back into the bite, which is a primary vector for transmitting disease.

If the tick breaks and leaves the head or mouthparts behind, you can try to remove them as well, or you can leave them where they are. As the bite heals, your fur baby's skin will push the remaining bits out, and pulling and picking at them might cause irritation and infection.

The Tick Remover Method

The tick remover method is similar to the tweezers method, except it dramatically reduces the risk of squeezing or breaking the tick when you remove it. That's because they're designed to slide under the tick and use leverage to pull it up and away without needing to squeeze or grasp it.

Here are some examples of designs:

• Tick Twisters, which resemble the claw side of a hammer. They slide under the tick and with a few twists they remove them. Yep, I said twist. Because this tool doesn’t put pressure on the mouth or body, the twisting motion appears to be a safe option.
• Tick Keys, which work in more or less the same way but with a smaller form factor, designed to easily hang on a keychain so you always have it with you. Note that the narrow end is the leverage end and can push into your dog's skin and cause irritation if you need to use it a lot.
• Tick Checks, which are more like a fancy set of tweezers with easy-to-use handles for more leverage.

I don’t personally have experience with any of these tools, so read verified reviews and ask friends and family what’s work best for them.

What Not to Do

There are a lot of different instructions on how to remove ticks, but a lot of them are actually dangerous to your fur baby.

I already mentioned twisting up above, but here are a couple of others. Note that some products, like the Tick Tornado, tell you to twist to remove ticks; this is actually dangerous and, while it certainly removes the ticks, increases the chance of disease spreading to your fur baby. Just don't do it.

Don't use chemicals to smother the tick. Things like gasoline, Vaseline, rubbing alcohol, or other chemicals are meant to smother the tick and make it back out and away from a hazardous environment. The problem is, in their struggle to get away, they almost always vomit back into the bite, which dramatically increases the chance of disease spreading to your fur baby.

Don't use a match. There's a piece of folk wisdom that says using a match to scald the back end of a tick will make it back out and flee. For the same reasons as above, this can spew disease back into your dog, and it also makes the tick less recognizable and harder to identify if you bring it to the vet.

In addition to the risk of spreading disease, these methods also can hurt your fur baby. Anything like this that irritates the skin, especially around an already-irritated spot like a tick bite, can be rough for your pup.

Check out this great video on the dos and don’ts of removing a tick:

Step 3: Save the Tick

Your damp paper towel is used to wrap up the tick to keep it hydrated and identifiable when you bring it to the vet. The zippered baggy is there to contain it so it doesn't crawl away and hide (or bite something else) before you can bring it in. If the tick dies, that's fine; you just don't want it to dissolve or rot, and you want to bring it to the vet as soon as you can for testing and identification.

Why should you save the tick? After all, the vet probably knows all about ticks in the area, right?

Well, two reasons. The first is that ticks aren't static. They can migrate, move, and spread, and their areas are always changing. It's entirely possible you live on a border of a kind of tick, and seeing that it's there can help a vet spread the word and report back to central health authorities for more accurate information.

The second and most important reason is so that your vet can run tests on the tick. These tests will identify whether or not the tick is carrying diseases. Tick-borne diseases can be dangerous and include:

• Lyme Disease, which can cause lethargy, muscle and joint aches, and enlarged lymph nodes.
• Canine Bartonellosis, which is rare but can cause lameness, fever, liver disease, and heart disease.
• Rickettsial Diseases, which are bacterial parasites that are spread by ticks.
• Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, which causes symptoms like lethargy, fever, and a poor appetite, and can even cause neurological problems.

Different ticks can transmit different types of diseases, and the list above is just  a few of them; here's a list of many other tick borne diseases. Tick diseases can be dangerous, but they're also generally treatable, especially if you catch them early. By testing the tick, the vet can tell you what, if anything, you need to watch out for and how it may present.

Step 4: Clean the Wound

The next step is to clean the bite wound. You want to do this to help prevent it from getting infected, which will cause a whole host of problems for your pup.

Once you've removed the tick and, if necessary, any remaining mouthparts, you'll want to wash the area with soap and water or an antiseptic solution. These will help kill off anything like bacteria in the area and can promote the healing of the skin.

After this, keep an eye on your pup and watch for symptoms. Similarly, keep an eye on the bite site to make sure it doesn't get red, inflamed, or show other signs of infection. 

Finally, make sure you clean all of your tools  so they are ready for the next use.

Step 5: Call Your Vet

Finally, when all is said and done, you should call your vet. You don't need to rush your fur baby to an emergency appointment, but you may need to stop in to hand over the tick for testing and may or may not want to bring your fur baby in to have them looked at as well. Just listen to what the vet says when you tell them you pulled a tick off your dog, and they'll tell you what to do next.

Other than that, unless your vet gives you specific instructions, you're probably good to go. Just keep an eye on your fur baby for any potential signs of a tick-borne disease, keep an eye out for other ticks, and go on about your life.

Preventing Ticks on Your Dog

If you landed on this post because you found a tick, you’re at least armed with the information you need to remove it. And while it’s difficult to 100% avoid ticks there are some things you can do to lower the chances of your pup picking one up.

Use a Flea & Tick Preventative

Believe it or not, not all monthly flea treatments include tick prevention, so check the brand you’re using to ensure you’re covered.

You’ll also want to check which species of ticks it covers, and which ones are common in your area to ensure your pup is getting the protection they need. Also consider what life stages they cover. For full coverage, you need larva, nymph, and adult.

Check out the chart below for some examples of tick coverage in common preventatives.

Ticks obviously aren’t the only concern when it comes to prevention, so talk with your vet to see what’s best for your pup.

Ticks obviously aren’t the only concern when it comes to prevention, so talk with your vet to see what’s best for your pup.

Another key factor here is ensuring you keep up with regular treatment. Set a reminder to ensure there is no lapse in coverage, and use caution if you stop in winter months as some ticks can survive colder temps.

Make Your Yard Less Tick Friendly

If you have a yard, odds are your pup spends a lot of time running around enjoying the space. The key here is trying to make it as safe as possible, and there are several steps you can take to improve your pup’s safety.

• Cut your grass regularly and remove any tall grass along the tree lines where your pup has access.
• Remove leaves.
• Discourage wild animals from visiting your yard.
  • Do not leave out food.
  • Secure trash cans.
  • Consider plants/flowers that are less desirable to deer.

Frequently Asked Questions about Ticks on Dogs

There's a lot to know about ticks on dogs, so let's talk about some of the more common questions I receive about it.

Where are you most likely to find ticks?

Ticks tend to like small, cramped, out-of-the-way places, like folds in skin, joints, and even between the toes. They want to be harder to get to, out of the way of being brushed off, and near where blood is close to the surface of the skin. Check under joints, around the groin, around the face, and between the toes.

Can a tick that bit my dog also bite me?

Yes! If a tick naturally falls off or is brushed off but survives, it can find its way to another source of food, and ticks aren't picky. Anything with blood is something they'll try to bite, and that can include you.

How long do ticks hang around?

This one depends. A tick that's feeding might stay between 3-7 days before detaching and going somewhere to lay eggs. However, if your dog has an active anti-tick treatment or an immune reaction to the tick, it might actually stick around longer trying to feed.

How can I prevent ticks in the first place?

As I mentioned above, you can make your yard less friendly to ticks, but unfortunately, it's almost impossible to completely prevent them. Any time you take your dog for a walk, and they can encounter external plants, there's a possibility of a tick showing up. I wrote a guide on repelling ticks here.

When are ticks most active?

Ticks can show up any time of the year, though places where it freezes and snows are less likely to have ticks show up in those winter months. In contrast, warmer and moist summer months are the peak times for ticks.

Are there natural ways to remove and prevent ticks?

Yes! In fact, I wrote a whole guide to natural remedies to help prevent ticks from sticking around and to remove them if they show up anyway. You can read it here.

Do you have any other questions I haven't covered? If so, please leave them in the comments below so I can answer. I look forward to it!

It's even worse when your fur baby is the one with the grumbly gut because it's even more likely to lead to something unpleasant making its way out, be it from the front end or the rear.

Even if you avoid a mess in the house, having to head outside every half hour for an emergency is stressful and worrisome!

Luckily, there are a bunch of ways you can soothe your pupper's upset stomach.

I've put together a dozen tips you can try, that cover everything from dietary tweaks to natural options and simple DIY care practices, we'll cover a range of approaches to address your dog's upset stomach.

Let’s get started!

What Causes an Upset Stomach in Dogs?

An upset stomach can be caused literally by anything. The whole gamut ranges from stress or anxiety to drinking yummy toilet water, to a mild virus, to eating something they shouldn't have, to eating something toxic to something more serious.

“The most common gastrointestinal issues causing owners to seek veterinary care for their dogs are dietary indiscretion (eating of food that upsets their GI tract), ingestion of a foreign object, intestinal parasites, pancreatitis, and chronic inflammatory intestinal disease (caused by food allergies/intolerance or immune-mediated inflammation).” - Dr. Emily Gould | Texas A&M College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences

Many of the causes of upset stomach are simple enough to deal with at home and will go away within 48 hours, but a few are more dangerous and might require a trip to the emergency vet.

When to Take Your Dog to the Vet

In general, if an upset stomach doesn’t resolve in 48-72 hours you should take your dog to the vet.

In puppies that haven't had their vaccinations, the biggest risk is parvovirus. Parvo can be deadly, which is why we vaccinate against it, but young puppies can catch it before they get those vaccinations.

Keep an eye out for bloody diarrhea, lethargy, vomiting, dehydration, and your puppy collapsing (and not in the cute clumsy puppy way). These are all signs of parvo and require vet care to make sure your fur baby gets enough fluids and nutrients to fight off the virus.

Check out this 3-minute education video about when to worry and when to go to the vet when you have a puppy with diarrhea by Krista Magnifico, DVM at Jarrettsville Veterinary Center.

For older dogs that are unlikely to have parvo, an upset stomach is a lot more likely to be caused by eating something that upsets their tummy, but in some cases can be more dangerous.

If your fur baby ate a whole jar of peanut butter full of xylitol, a big bar of chocolate you thought they couldn't reach, or some random chemical under the sink, you'll need to take them to the emergency vet to make sure they aren't in danger.

Symptoms you should watch out for include:

• Upset stomach signs that last for more than two days.
• Unwillingness to eat or drink (especially drink).
• Excessive drooling.
• Blood in the vomit or stool.
• Vomiting or diarrhea more than two or three times, particularly with no signs of abating.
• A toy or other non-food object in the vomit or diarrhea. Even if they purge it, it could have done damage internally that needs vet care.
• Restlessness that increases over time rather than decreasing.
• Weakness or collapsing unexpectedly.
• A distended stomach.

Generally, you'll be able to tell that there's something wrong beyond just eating an irritating plant or too much of something oily.

If you see any signs above, call your vet and see what they think, and be prepared to bring your fur baby in for an emergency appointment.

“If a pet stops eating, is lethargic, the diarrhea is black or tarry in quality, there is associated vomiting, or the diarrhea doesn’t resolve in 48-72 hours then veterinary care should be sought.” - Dr. Meredith Miller | Cornell Richard P. Riney Canine Health Center

Now if you have reasons to suspect your dog has consumed something that could be stuck in their gastrointestinal tract or a toxin, such as a poisonous plant during a walk, then it's very important that you seek medical care immediately.

Case in Point: My new nephew puppy just finished an in-depth two-week training session. One of his main goals was to learn to not eat any random thing he passes on his walks. Well he no sooner gets home after graduation and manages to eat a mushroom before my brother quickly grabbed it out of his mouth. Puppies, am I right?!

Knowing there are many harmful mushrooms he headed straight for the vet, where they induced vomiting. Long story short, the mushroom was non-toxic, but if you’re not sure you should always err on the side of caution.

If your vet recommends a watch a wait approach because the symptoms are mild, but they're clearly unpleasant, you can try some home remedies to try to alleviate that upset stomach and give your fur baby some relief while they work through it.

Here are a dozen different remedies you can try out.

1: Water

This might seem like a no-brainer as you should always have fresh water available for your pup, but I’ll say it anyway. The number one thing your dog needs when their stomach is upset, especially if they're vomiting, or have diarrhea is water.

Dehydration is very dangerous for dogs, and it can happen a lot faster than you might think. Extended dehydration can lead to organ damage and, in extreme cases, even death.

Offering your fur baby some water is a good first step, but they may not be interested in it or won't be able to keep it down if they lap up too much at once. A decent solution is to give them ice chips a little at a time.

The cold helps soothe the stomach, and the ice being solid gives them a different mechanism to consume it rather than lapping it up, which can help them keep it down.

2: Pedialyte

When dehydration is a primary concern, it's not just about the water itself. Dehydration throws off the body's balance of electrolytes and nutrients, which means your fur baby will need something to restore them.

If your first thought is "Gatorade," you're on the right track, but not quite where you need to be. Instead, head to the children's food aisle at your nearest store and grab a bottle of unflavored Pedialyte.

Pedialyte was originally designed for children as something inoffensive and tasty enough to give to a child who is feeling ill and doesn't want to drink plain water or some medicated supplement.

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It's packed with electrolytes and nutrients to help hydrate and restore the body better than water alone can. Well, people quickly discovered that it works great for a lot more than just sick kids, so they have a dozen different sub-products these days, like a sport version, an organic version, and advanced medicated versions.

You'll want to grab a standard Pedialyte (double-check to make sure the ingredients list is safe, but it should be) and give it to your fur baby in small sips and in small quantities.

While there are no scientific studies today advocating for its use in dogs, if they can keep it down, it's a good way to encourage hydration.

One word of caution here is that Pedialyte contains sodium and sugar which, depending on your dog’s overall health condition may be harmful. The temporary use of Pedialyte in a relatively healthy and young dog will be less risky than in an older and not so healthy one. So, keep this in mind.

“Patients with vomiting, moderate to severe dehydration, diabetes, heart disease, kidney disease or other diseases that make your pet sensitive to sodium or sugar intake should definitely avoid Pedialyte.” – Dr. Monica Tarantino DVM

3: Fasting

If your fur baby is vomiting, expelling diarrhea, or both, it can feel bad to take food away from them. After all, they're already losing a lot of nutrition, so they're probably hungry and miserable.

Unfortunately, giving them food can irritate an already inflamed gastrointestinal tract, which can exacerbate the issue.

It's even worse if they scarf down some dry food too quickly and immediately toss it back up, irritating their throat even more in the process.

A brief fast can help their bodies purge whatever is causing them trouble and allow the GI tract to settle and heal.

For younger or smaller dogs (not puppies), you generally don’t want to go more than 12 hours without food; for older or larger dogs, you can go as much as 24 hours.

“Sometimes, adding to the stomach will only make things worse, so fasting is another possible remedy for a dog’s upset stomach. Before fasting, though, you need to make sure that it’s safe for your dog. Every breed is different, and smaller dogs may not tolerate fasting as well as others.” - Care First Animal Hospital

An important feature of a food fast is to ensure your pup is still drinking water. Sips of Pedialyte or a bit of natural organic (xylitol-free) maple syrup can help keep their blood sugar up without being as irritating as food.

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4: Bone Broth

Bone broth is a very nutritious and nurturing liquid, sort of like chicken soup is for us people when we're sick.

You can find it at the grocery store alongside the other kinds of broth, or you can make some yourself, though making it yourself will take a whole day, so it's not a fast emergency solution.

A word of caution: Garlic and onions are toxic to dogs, and they are found in many store-bought broths. Be sure to check the ingredients to ensure they aren’t included.

Although some online retailers may already sell bone broth for dogs, it may take a day or two to arrive once you order. So, you may end up having to stop by your grocery store to look for alternatives.

If you don’t find a ready-made option at the grocery store that is ingredient-safe to give your dog you may have to make it yourself.

How to Make Bone Broth For your Dog

While it may take time, it’s not difficult to make. Simply get some bone-in meat (usually chicken works best, but beef also works) and put it in a deep pot.

Add enough water to cover it and a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar to help break down the collagen in the bones. Bring to a boil, then simmer for at least 8-12 hours, occasionally skimming off the fat. The resulting broth will be simple and basic and can be frozen to last for half a year.

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5: Bland Food

The "Bland Food" diet is a specific food mixture you can give your fur baby that is nutritious enough to keep them going but so bland and inoffensive that it's pretty much guaranteed to stay down.

If your fur baby manages to vomit this up, it's a sure sign you should take them to the vet ASAP.

What is the Bland Food diet?

It generally means two ingredients: white rice and white meat chicken. Cook the chicken until it's done, and boil the white rice until it's soft and fluffy.

You want about one part meat to two or three parts rice. Chop up the chicken, mix it all together, and give your fur baby a tablespoon or two of it at a time. If they can keep that down, they're probably on the mend.

Now, if you are lucky enough to have a dog that is allergic to chicken (which is a real thing!) you can also make it with ground turkey, ground beef, egg and even low-fat cottage cheese.

In terms of the carbohydrate , it doesn’t have to be rice. You can also use plain pasta or white potato.

Just make sure to avoid adding salt, any oils, fats, or spices to either the rice or the chicken when you cook them. Those can irritate an upset stomach and go against the point of the diet being bland.

Make sure not to feed your dog this diet for more than 3-4 days. When your pet begins to feel better you, feel free to start mixing in some of their regular food with the bland diet for a couple of days before switching back to just their normal kibble.

If the issue has not gotten better or completely resolved after 3-4 days, you should see your vet.

6: Probiotics

Probiotics are foods that contain bacteria, but they're helpful bacteria rather than harmful.

These bacteria are already present in your fur baby's digestive system, but they can get overrun by bad bacteria when they're ill or even just get disrupted by antibiotics and other medications or changes in diet.

The easiest way to give your fur baby some probiotics is with plain, unflavored, unsweetened yogurt.

Alternatively, there are a handful of canine probiotic foods, like FortiFlora and Visbiome, which you can find in pet supply stores and online. Always consult with your vet before giving probiotics to your dog.

Regular use of probiotics can be a wonderful thing for your dog. Now, as we like to caution every pet parent out there: Not all dog probiotics are created equal. Refrain from going on @m@z0n or any other large online retailer and buying the first “best seller” or “vet recommended” probiotic for your dog.

We can’t warn pet parents enough about letting these labels influence their purchase decisions. If you are a regular reader of our blog, you know to be aware that the pet industry has been infested with unscrupulous sellers and bad actors that have mastered the art of deception when it comes to stripping you of your money at the expense of your dog’s happiness and wellbeing.

Before making any rushed decisions, you should educate yourself about probiotics for dogs. Also, do your research and due diligence about both the product and most importantly the seller.

“The most widely known probiotics are the live cultures found in yogurt, but they are also available as nutritional supplements. Labels should include an expiration date, the exact species, the number of microorganisms in the product and a guarantee for the number of live organisms. The manufacturer should be able to provide support for the efficacy of the product, preferably a study by an external, accredited researcher.” - Cornell Richard P. Riney Canine Health Center

FortiFlora also works for cats. I have personally used it for my IBD kitties during acute bouts of diarrhea. And while I’ve experienced mixed results it has made a difference.

How long does it take for probiotics to stop diarrhea in dogs?

The short answer is it depends. The long one is that some probiotics work faster than others. You can expect improvement from as soon as 2-3 days to weeks. But again, when used to stop your dog’s diarrhea, you should bring your dog to the vet if the issue is not resolved within 3 days max.

7: Other Plain Foods

There are a variety of different plain foods you can try giving to your fur baby to see if they stay down – these should all be limited in quantity as they aren’t a balanced meal. Pretty much anything bland and free of spices and fats can do well.

You can try canned pumpkin, oatmeal, sweet potatoes, or bananas as simple alternatives.

Pumpkin is a great option for a pup with diarrhea, just make sure it’s plain pumpkin and not the stuff you’d use to make a pie.

“Plain, canned pumpkin is the healthiest choice for your dog. Both fresh and canned pumpkin are good sources of nutrients and fiber, but canned pumpkin contains a higher concentration of fiber and nutrients compared to fresh pumpkin. However, canned pumpkin with added salt, spices, sugar, or other additives can irritate your dog’s stomach further, counteracting the beneficial effects of the pumpkin.” - American Kennel Club

How Fast Does Pumpkin Help with Diarrhea?

It depends. The cause of the diarrhea, its severity, and how much pumpkin you give your pup are some of the factors that will determine how fast your pup recovers from an upset stomach. On average you can expect to see signs of improvement from 4 - 6 hours to 24 - 48 hours.

8: Slippery Elm Bark

Slippery Elm, also known as Indian Elm, Red Elm, Moose Elm, Sweet Elm, Orme, or Ulmus Fulva, is a tree with bark that feels slippery on the inside due to a chemical it contains.

It's been a soothing remedy for sore throats for centuries because that same chemical causes increased mucous production, helping to coat the throat.

While no studies have been performed on dogs, but rather on humans, there is anecdotal evidence that supports that slippery elm powder can help soothe your dog’s upset stomach.

When you give some to your dog, it will have the same effect, stimulating the production of mucous that helps coat and line their GI tract and protect it from whatever is causing irritation.

As we always like to recommend, make sure to talk to your vet first before giving any kind of herbal supplement, though, and be on the lookout for unpleasant side effects.

9: Pepto-Bismol

Nausea, heartburn, indigestion, upset stomach, diarrhea! That's the jingle many of us remember from commercials a couple of decades ago (actually I just saw one recently), and that smooth, vaguely chalky, pink sludge has been a staple of medicine cabinets ever since. Well, it's an effective remedy for people, but did you know it can work for dogs as well?

Word of caution here: While Pepto isn't approved for use in dogs, many vets and pet owners know it can be effective when given properly – and by that I mean under a veterinarian's guidance.

You’ll find mixed opinions all over the internet regarding the safety of Pepto for your dog, so always work under the supervision of your vet.

Here is what the manufacturer of Pepto says on their website regarding whether it is ok to give your Pepto to your pet:

“Pepto Bismol is for humans. Consult with your veterinarian for treatment.” - Pepto Bismol

Too much or over a period that is too long can do more harm than good. Your vet will also know any preexisting conditions or medications they are taking that may not make Pepto a suitable option for your pup.

10: Keep Away from the Lawn

Dogs (and cats) have an inherent drive to eat grass.

Some pet parents tend to think that eating grass is a sign that their dog is feeling sick. But some studies have shown that none of these beliefs are true.

Regardless of the reason, one thing is almost guaranteed to be true, though, the lawn is very likely to be unsafe to eat.

Lawncare chemicals, runoff, and other nastiness can all be anywhere from irritating to toxic, and the last thing your dog needs is something to further irritate them.

Bottom line, always keep your pup from eating grass, especially if they have an upset stomach.

11: Low-Stress Environment

One occasional cause of vomiting and an upset stomach is stress and anxiety. If you've been through a lot and your fur baby is having a bad time, it might be worthwhile to bring them somewhere familiar or keep them at home for a while, so they can decompress and relax.

Yes, some dogs have anxiety, and if you notice a pattern of digestive issues when you go to crowded areas, or when you leave town, you should talk to your vet about ways to prevent or reduce the stress.

CBD for dogs has proven to be great for helping with situational anxiety. Of course, you shouldn't try it with the goal of stopping an upset stomach – as it may not work for that – but rather as a preventative approach or future anxiety related stomach episodes.

So, if you notice any correlation between diarrhea episodes and situational anxiety in your dog, CBD might help.

If you are anything like me, you’d try any natural and holistic available approaches to help your dog before resorting to traditional methods.

I’ve written extensively about CBD for dogs and cats if you want to dive into more detail.

12: Gradual Return to Normal Food

As your fur baby gets over whatever was irritating them, you can start to go back to giving them regular food, but you want to introduce it slowly.

You should never try to go from a liquid or bland diet to regular food overnight; instead, gradually reintroduce it by about 15-20% of their food each day.

Hopefully, these remedies will help your furry companion feel better! Remember if the home remedies don’t clear up the issue in 24 to 48 hours, it’s time to give your vet a call. Sometimes their intervention is what’s needed to get your pup back on the right track.

Do you have a personal favorite remedy you use with your pup? How quickly did it work? Be sure to let me know in the comments section down below! I'd love to hear what you think!

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Check out this adorable bread obsessed kitty:

While some of this is clearly adorable behavior from a hungry little predator, sometimes there may be a bit more of a sinister undertone.

Sharing a little fish or chicken, usually not a big deal. Cats are obligate carnivores, they have to eat meat to survive, and your meat is definitely tasty.

Bread, though? Can they eat that?

You can put that particular fear to rest: cats can safely eat plain bread without many issues, though they don't need the carbs, so it’s not something nutritional beneficial for them.

Like any treat, it should be held in moderation for the overall health of your furry friend.

Not all human foods are safe for feline consumption, though. Today we’re going to review some of the more common types of food we may have in our homes that should never make their way into your cat's system.

It’s worth mentioning that many of these foods have different toxicity levels. Toxicity can mean anything from digestive upset all the way to death. In many cases a very small amount won’t be fatal but read on to learn more.

1: Alcohol

This one should come as no surprise. After all, alcohol is a toxin for people, too; that buzz you feel after a glass or two of wine is a side effect of being, well, poisoned.

It's just socially acceptable for people to do a little self-harm as a tasty treat in this particular instance.

Cats, though, have neither the social support and cultural mores nor the body mass necessary to handle alcohol. Even a little of the stuff can lead to dangerous complications and even death.

Signs of alcohol toxicity:

These can occur as soon as 15-30 minutes after ingestion.

• Lethargy
• Lack of coordination
• Drooling
• Vomiting
• Weakness/Collapse
• Decreased respiratory rate
• Hypothermia (low body temperature)

Many cat parents mistakenly believe that so long as they avoid directly giving alcohol to their cats, the risk of alcohol poisoning is non-existent.

The truth of the matter is that there are many ubiquitous sources of alcohol around the house that might potentially put their cats at risk:

Ethanol — Common sources of ethanol include alcoholic drinks, desserts flavored with alcohol, fermented fruits, unbaked yeast dough, some liquid medications, and mouth washes.
Methanol — The most common sources of methanol include windshield fluids, some gasoline additives, and some paint solvents.
Isopropanol — This alcohol has twice the potency of ethanol or methanol. Common sources include 70 percent rubbing alcohol, hand sanitizer, glass cleaners, perfumes or colognes, detergents, antifreeze, and some grooming products or flea sprays. | Animal Emergency Care

2: Yeast

Anything you’re making with yeast in it is a one-two punch of danger for a cat.

Raw yeast alone is unpleasant because it can grow in your cat's digestive system, releasing gasses that cause uncomfortable bloating and digestive issues.

Moreover, yeasts often produce alcohol as a byproduct, and we just covered how dangerous those can be.

Note that this only means active yeasts; a baked bread, even if yeast is an ingredient, has had that yeast killed by the heat of baking and is thus safer.

Signs of yeast dough ingestion include:

• Bloat
• Unsuccessful attempts to vomit that result in nothing or a little white foam
• Enlarged abdomen
• Tremors
• Weakness
• Increased heart rate
• Collapse

If you bake bread at home, or in a facility that hosts cats, make sure to never leave dough out to rise in a place that is within a cat’s reach.

“A key part of baking bread is giving it time to rise (proof). While proofing dough may not look appetizing to people, it may to pets. It’s important not to leave dough out to rise in an area accessible by dogs and cats, including countertops.” | ASPCA Pro.org

3: Chocolate

Chocolate has a few different substances called methylxanthines, which are derived from xanthine as a base.

Several different chemicals fall into this category, including two you're more likely to be familiar with: theobromine and caffeine.

Both of these are mildly beneficial to people but can have dangerous effects on animals, including cats.

Caffeine can lead to seizures, tremors, and death if consumed by cats (and dogs), so you should keep your chocolate treats locked away. The darker the chocolate, the worse it is, too.

Story time: One Halloween a few years back, I purchased some bags of mixed chocolate bars and left them on the counter. When I got home from work, I found the bag ripped open and several of the chocolate bars had been sampled. I’m not just talking about teeth marks. Some of the chocolate was clearly eaten. The guilty party was fine, and I learned it’s not just dogs that break into candy stashes.

Signs of chocolate toxicity:

• Hyperactivity
• Restlessness
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Increased thirst
• Elevated heart rate
• Tremors
• Hyperthermia (elevated body temperature)

4-5: Coffee and Tea

While you probably enjoy a nice cup of coffee or tea in the mornings to get you up and moving, that caffeine is just as dangerous to your cat as it is when it's in chocolate.

Black or green tea is known to cause liver and gastrointestinal organ damage in cats.

While you may read on other blogs that catechins are beneficial to your cat and that it’s ok to give your cat black or green tea so long as you cat is healthy and isn’t fasting, we highly advise you consult with your veterinarian before giving tea to your fur baby.

To be on the safe side, don't let your fur baby have a cuppa joe, no matter how much they beg and whine about it. They probably just want your attention, not your treat, anyway.

Be careful, too; even "decaf" drinks still have some natural caffeine in them. It's below the threshold where a human will feel it, but cats are much smaller than people and, thus, much more sensitive to smaller amounts of these substances.

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A lick or two of your coffee or tea usually isn’t a big deal, but after the first time, be sure to keep your beverages supervised.

I had to switch to a travel mug when I worked from home after I caught my angel Moo with his head in my cup of tea. Luckily, nothing happened but I got really scared.

Many pet parents may be unaware of dangerous sources of caffeine laying around the house. Some overlooked sources of caffeine that may put your cat in danger include:

• Sodas
• Energy or sports drinks
• Diet pills
• Over the counter pain medications
• Over the counter energy boosting pills Your favorite candy bar may also contain caffeine.
• Chocolate (with that fun crinkling wrapper?)
• Coffee flavored ice creams (that bowl you left in the sink without rinsing)

6-8: Lemons, Oranges, and Grapefruits

Citrus fruits, in general, are bad for cats. Two particular substances in the citrus cause issues: citric acid and citrus oils naturally found in the peels and throughout the fruits.

These substances can lead to upset stomachs and digestive unrest, as well as central nervous system depression, which is a lot worse than it sounds (and isn't related to mental health.)

Luckily, most cats don't like the scent of citrus and will stay away from it on their own, which is why citrus scents are often used as deterrents for cat training.

9: Coconut

Coconut oil is a common item in holistic medicine, and there's a small amount of evidence to suggest that it can help cats out with certain coat issues, largely relating to vitamin deficiencies.

Contrary to what you may read all over the internet about the health benefits for your cat, caution should be exercised with coconut.

A quick search of coconut for cats will result in a lot of affiliate marketing sites trying to sell you on hundreds of products. Beware!

Here is what the Drake Center for Veterinary care says about credible and unsubstantiated claims on coconut benefits for your cat:

Coconut oil claims with no credible basis based on what we currently know include: Cancer prevention, dental calculus and periodontal disease prevention, weight loss, thyroid dysfunction; Claims that may have a credible basis include: Dry skin, wound healing, atopic dermatitis | The Drake Center for Veterinary Care

My best advice is that if you’re going to try supplementing with coconut oil, make sure it’s food grade and always talk with your vet first. It can cause digestive issues, so it’s always best to start with a small amount to see how your kitty responds.

Last, but not least, the flesh and milk of the coconut are high in potassium so they should always be avoided.

10: Dairy

Any of you out there who are lactose intolerant know how unpleasant it can be to have some cheese, milk, yogurt, or other dairy products in a meal.

Even a surprisingly small amount can lead to ongoing digestive problems, unpleasant bloating, gas, and other issues.

Well, you may have heard that humans are relatively unique in that we're one of the only species that can enjoy dairy after childhood. It should be no surprise, then, to find that most cats are lactose intolerant.

But then, why do cats like milk and dairy?

“The parts of the diary product that your cat has interest for are fat and protein. They can smell the fat and protein in dairy products and will be attracted by it. There can be a lot of both fat and protein in milk, cheese and yoghurt.” | Charlottesville Cat Care Clinic

Unfortunately, that stereotype of giving a stray cat a saucer of milk or whipped cream does a lot more harm than good.

It's not good for them, and while it won't kill them, it won't be pleasant for them or whoever has to clean up after them. Not to mention that giving your cat milk can cause an unbalanced diet and lead weight gain.

A tiny bite of cheese now and then is usually well tolerated, but anything more than that is begging for trouble.

11: Grapes

Grapes (and raisins, which are just dehydrated grapes) are a somewhat confusing fruit.

Unlike other foods, which have well known compounds that cause toxicity, grapes are a bit of a mystery. They also tend to be associated as just bad for dogs as most cats aren’t attracted to them.

“There are dogs who have had issues after only a few grapes and some who do not have any issues until they eat a whole bag of them. Because the mechanism of toxicity is unknown, the best answer is no grapes for either your cats or your dogs.” - Embrace Pet Insurance Director of Claims Jenna Mahan

Since science hasn't yet figured out what the compound cause problems such as sudden kidney failure, most veterinarians recommend to keep them away from both cats and dogs.

Lethargy and seizures are common symptoms seen in dogs that have consumed grapes, so head straight to the vet if your kitty sampled some grapes and exhibit these symptoms.

12: Eggs

Let me begin this section by saying well cooked eggs, without added seasonings are perfectly safe for cats. They are a good source of protein and are often seen as an ingredient in wet cat food.

Raw eggs on the other hand are not safe for cats. Because chickens can carry salmonella their uncooked eggs are also a risk for spreading the bacteria.

Need another reason not to feed your cat raw eggs? If they get salmonella, they can pass it on to you!

So keep in mind, if your cat is a counter surfer, like some of mine were, make sure to never leave anything with raw eggs unattended, including the empty shells.

13-14: Onions and Garlic

I don’t know about you, but I love to cook with both onions are garlic. They bring so much delicious flavor to foods.

Those delicious smells that waft from the kitchen can also be appealing to your fur baby. The thing is both onions are garlic are toxic to cats.

Onions and garlic are both alliums, along with hundreds of other species. Other alliums include chives, shallots, leeks, and scallions (and really, anything with that oniony smell to it). There are also hundreds of inedible ornamental alliums grown as flowers.

Unfortunately, all of these are bad for your fur baby. In addition to digestive troubles, alliums can cause damage to red blood cells and lead to anemia.

“Allium spp can cause Heinz body formation, methemoglobinemia, agglutination, and hemoglobinuria. Cats are more sensitive to Allium toxicosis than dogs. In addition to anemia, small animals may exhibit GI signs, including anorexia, vomiting, and diarrhea. The anorexia often occurs 1 day before the hemolysis.” | Malinda E. Wallis, BS, CVT | ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center

Some are worse than others, too; garlic is 3 to 5 times more toxic than onions for a cat.

Signs of garlic or onion toxicity:

• Vomiting
• Lethargy
• Increased heart rate
• Blood in urine

15-17: Almonds, Pecans, and Walnuts

Nuts, in general, are bad for cats. Some, like macadamia nuts, cause problems similar to those caused by grapes (and are similarly not understood by veterinary science as of yet).

Others, like almonds and walnuts, are just high in natural fats and oils. These fats and oils aren't really necessary to your cat's health and can cause digestive problems, as well as pancreatitis, a very painful condition.

18: Xylitol

Everything else on this list is a food, so what is this chemical doing here? Well, xylitol is a sugar alcohol, which should already tell you a lot of what you need to know… or should it?

A "sugar alcohol" isn't really an alcohol and doesn't work in the same way. Instead, it's a lot more like sugar! Xylitol is one of the most common "healthy" sugar substitutes found in most sugar-free foods these days.

There is firm evidence that xylitol is wildly toxic to dogs (and is a big reason why peanut butter treats for dogs need to be vetted first), but there is some debate on whether or not it’s also toxic for cats.

Here's what the FDA says about xylitol for pets in general:

Some food and drink items that you consider tasty treats may be dangerous for your pet. As tempting as it might be to share your food or drink with your four-legged friend, please resist! Some of the more hazardous edible items include:… Xylitol (a sweetener found in products such as some sugar-free chewing gum, sugar-free candy, cough syrup, mouthwash, and toothpaste)” | U.S Food and Drug Administration

What's not clear is whether the pet group includes cats as well.

A study published in the National Library of Medicine about the effects of xylitol in cats, observed no effects of toxicity in cats.

“Xylitol is commonly used as sugar substitute in households. While it has numerous beneficial effects on human health, it is highly toxic to dogs. The goal of this study was to examine whether xylitol has similar deleterious effects, such as hypo glycaemia and acute hepatic failure, on cats…Based on our results, xylitol did not induce toxic effects on cats.”

There are a number of reasons for the debate, many cats aren’t interested in consuming products that typically contain xylitol, so there isn’t much documented to show their response.

Because xylitol causes drastic blood sugar level drops in dogs and even liver failure, I’ve added it to this list as a precaution. I would keep products containing xylitol away from diabetic kitties and older cats that have other health issues.

Until we know more about how cats are affected, it’s best to err on the side of caution.

19: Tomato Stems and Plants

Okay, so this one isn't quite like the rest on this list, but it's still something you might have around the house. Tomatoes, when ripe, are perfectly fine for your fur baby. The leaves, stems, and rest of the plant, as well as unripe tomatoes, are dangerous, though.

Tomato is a kind of nightshade, which is a common toxic plant that was even used as a poison in centuries past.

“Ingestion of the greenery, flowers, and green fruit can cause clinical problems in dogs and cats…Clinical signs include gastrointestinal (GI) upset, cardiac effects, and central nervous system signs (e.g., ataxia, muscle weakness, tremors, seizures), resulting from cholinesterase inhibition.” - Malinda E. Wallis, BS, CVT | ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center

Fun fact: potatoes, eggplants, and tobacco are all nightshades as well!

So, if you like to grow your own fruits and veggies, but also have a kitty that likes to chew on plants, tomatoes should be kept off limits.

20: Salty Meats and Treats

Cats may need meat in their diet but feeding them bacon or salami is likely going to be a problem. It's not the meat itself that's the problem here; it's the preservative: salt. Salt is necessary in small amounts for cats, dogs, and people, but in large amounts, it can cause a lot of problems.

Unfortunately, salt is a very effective preservative and flavor enhancer, so it's in just about everything, which is why so many people have blood pressure issues. Cats, being smaller and more sensitive, can develop hypernatremia from an excess of salt.

“Large amounts of salt can produce excessive thirst and urination, or even sodium ion poisoning in pets…As such, we encourage you to avoid feeding salt-heavy snacks like potato chips, pretzels, and salted popcorn to your pets.” - ASPCA

Symptoms of hypernatremia:

• Increased thirst
• Vomiting
• Decreased appetite
• Diarrhea
• Seizures

21: Canned Tuna

Tuna is alright for cats as a treat, but you should avoid making it a core element of your cat's diet. There are two reasons for this.

The first is that canned tuna isn't nutritionally complete for a cat. It doesn't have all of the vitamins, minerals, and nutrients necessary to keep your cat healthy. They need a more varied diet to make sure they get everything necessary to nourish their entire body.

The second is that there's a lot of mercury found in fish, particularly tuna, so if your cat over-eats tuna, they can end up with mercury poisoning. People can get this too, but again, you need a lot more tuna to get that big a dose.

“Commercial fish food products such as tuna have been associated with chronic poisoning in humans and cats.” – Merck Veterinary Manual

Signs of mercury poisoning:

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Tremors

22-25: Raw Chicken, Beef, Pork, and Fish

Raw meats of any kind may seem like an odd inclusion on this list. After all, wouldn't cats in the wild eat raw meat all the time? Well, sure, cats in the wild also get sick and even die from the things they eat all the time. We like to take better care of our fur babies than that, right?

The problem here is microbes. Bacteria like e.coli and salmonella, as well as various parasites, can all linger on the surface of raw meats. Cross-contamination is also an issue.

Any of these diseases can prove devastating to your feline friend, so it's usually better to cook meat before giving it to them.

Similarly, if you buy a raw meat diet, make sure it's produced in a certified environment. Making it yourself, unless done with extreme care, can be dangerous.

Symptoms of Food-Caused Problems

As you’ve noted from the signs listed above, the most common issues from food are digestive. Your poor kitty's digestive system will want to get rid of whatever is causing them a problem ASAP, with predictable results.

Other symptoms can include pain, gas, coughing, confusion, breathing problems, seizures, tremors, and weakness.

If you see your cat struggling with any of these, it's probably a good idea to rush them to the vet to make sure it's not going to get worse. Often, with fluids and a bit of monitoring, they'll end up fine.

However, you need to be careful to make sure they don't consume the offending food again in the future.

Luckily, most food issues can be resolved within a couple of hours, and monitoring at the vet is mostly a precaution.

If you suspect your fur baby has eaten something dangerous, first call your vet. If they tell you to just keep an eye on them, you will probably be fine with some monitoring. Otherwise, you may want to rush them to the emergency vet, particularly if their symptoms indicate something worse than digestive troubles, like seizures or kidney/liver failure.

If you can't get through to your vet, you can also try:

• Pet Poison Helpline, 855-764-7661, www.petpoisonhelpline.com

• ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, 888-426-4435, www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control

They'll help advise you on what, if anything, you should do and what your next steps should be.

What's your favorite treat to give to your fur baby? Hopefully, it's not something on this list! I'd love to hear about your furry friends and their favorite snacks, so be sure to leave your stories in the comments section down below!

Seemingly inconspicuous at first, a simple cold or tooth decay can escalate into more severe conditions, making it essential to monitor them. Understanding their patterns becomes pivotal when their once-brimming food bowl remains untouched for an entire day.

Unlike us, cats cannot sustain on water alone for elongated periods. Thus, noticing your little furry friend not eating calls for immediate attention and encouraging them effectively to resume their meals.

They may or may not continue with their water intake. Irrespective, it's essential to emphasize on their food.

In this piece, we dive into the main factors that could potentially disrupt your senior cat's eating routine, complemented with handy tips to stimulate their appetite.

This informative blog post aims to help fellow pet owners navigate through similar situations and leverage my personal experiences with my aging cat.

Why Is It Important That My Cat Eats Every Day?

Before we dive into ways to encourage your senior kitty to eat, it's important to know why eating is so critical to a cat's health:

If your cat isn't eating, you should take them to the vet immediately.

When a cat of any age stops eating, the liver compensates by breaking down the fat in the body to create energy.

If eating doesn't resume, the fat can build up in the liver, limiting its function and ultimately leading to hepatic lipidosis or fatty liver disease. If left untreated, fatty liver disease can be fatal in cats.

This information isn't meant to scare you but to show the importance of monitoring if your kitty is eating. Hepatic lipidosis can happen at any age, so it's always a good practice to be aware of how much your kitty is eating.

Understand Why an Older Cat Won't Eat

First things first, what is considered an older cat? In the past, cats that reached the age of 8 were considered old cats. Today, a cat's senior age stage starts between the ages of 12 – 14 years.

"Thanks to improved nutrition, living indoors, and advances in veterinary medicine, cats live longer and are now considered older at 12 to 14 years…"- Richard Goldstein, DVM | Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine.

If your older cat isn't eating, there are a lot of possible reasons, and understanding those reasons is the first step toward addressing the underlying problem.

1. Illness.

Cats are masters of hiding pain and illness, a survival mechanism they have engrained in their DNA.

That's why it often seems like they go downhill extremely quickly at the end; they've been hiding how bad things are until they can't hide anymore.

The number one cause for a lack of appetite in a cat, particularly an older cat, is illness.

This can range anywhere from the common kitty cold to allergies to more serious conditions like infections, kidney failure, pancreatitis, or even cancer.

Older cats often develop problems as they age, and problems that were previously well-controlled stop being stable.

Something as simple as a cold can cause your kitty to stop eating. They may have a little fever, and their nose gets stuffy. As a result, their food may not smell strong enough to entice them to eat.

Some cats with inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) may have a flare and associate their food with their tummy troubles.

Other conditions, such as chronic kidney disease – a super common disease in older cats - can leave your kitty feeling nauseous, and who wants to eat when they feel like throwing up?

Pancreatitis is another condition that can cause anorexia in cats, and this is something I've personally dealt with – twice.

This inflammatory issue is very painful and not only kept our Sosa from eating, but she also stopped socializing.

2. Oral health issues.

Cats can't brush their teeth the way we can, and thus, they commonly suffer from tooth decay.

Getting your kitty's teeth checked at their regular vet visits can help identify these problems before they get out of control.

Oral issues, whether it's a cavity or dental abscess, a broken tooth, a loose tooth, a lesion in the mouth, a tongue problem, or something else, can all make the act of eating into an unpleasant chore.

Your cat will likely pick at or avoid food entirely because it's painful to eat.

3. Stress and household changes.

Cats are generally creatures of habit.

“…older cats cherish predictable days more than younger cats do. "Just as we become set in our ways as we get older, cats do too," Dr. Goldstein | Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine.

They like to hang out in the same places and do the same things each day, which is why they tend to have issues when you do something like take a vacation, change your schedule (like daylight savings time), or rearrange your furniture.

Travel can also stress them out, and a stressed cat may not have the appetite to eat.

Luckily, stress can wear off, and they'll eat when the hunger overcomes their anxiety, so this is one of the easiest causes to handle.

If you haven't tried CBD oil yet, it can be effective for cats with situational anxiety.

4. Social or antisocial eating.

Some cats are social eaters, which means they like to have someone else with them while they eat, to act as a lookout and a guard and a comforting presence.

In the wild, this role would be filled with another cat, but if they're your only feline, you'll need to be on hand to comfort them while they dine.

Cat Demands Dad to Watch Him Eat – 43s Video.

Other cats hate the vulnerability of eating.

Eating takes focus and is a distraction, and a cat that fears intrusion or food insecurity might not want anyone or anything around when they eat.

They say a watched pot never boils; a watched cat never eats.

If your cat is older, you likely know their preferences by now, but those preferences can change.

In particular, if your cat has recently been stressed, injured, or ill, their habits may change, often in the more antisocial direction.

When Is It Time to Take Your Cat to the Vet

If your cat isn't eating, what should you do? Seek emergency care, schedule a prompt appointment, call the vet for advice, or try to address it on your own?

The safety and well-being of your cat should always be the priority. If your cat hasn't eaten in more than 24 hours, it's recommended to consult a vet immediately.

Always monitor your cat's overall behavior and health. Sometimes a sudden change in diet or an occasional aversion to a particular food may not signify a serious issue. However, any prolonged refusal to eat or other alarming symptoms should be addressed with a professional.

Even if your cat has previously shown pickiness with food, it's always better to err on the side of caution and get expert advice. Your pet's health is paramount.

Monitoring Your Cat

The first thing you should do is watch your furry friend and see what other behaviors or symptoms they may have.

If your cat has occasional bouts with food aversion but will eat if you can get the circumstances just right, it's possible they aren't ill and just want you to run to the pet supply store to get them a new food option.

Just like us, cats can also get tired of eating the same thing and sometimes are up for a change. My 18-year-old Sosa does that all the time.

And so I keep a smorgasbord of different types of food that allows me to spice up her menu options.

If your fur baby has some symptoms of something else going on, like signs of a toothache, a runny nose, sneezing, or congestion, you'll want to call your vet and ask for advice.

They can tell you if you should try some at-home treatment options or if you should bring them in for examination.

If your feline friend has more pronounced symptoms, particularly if they are withdrawing and hiding, you'll want to schedule an appointment and bring your fur baby in for a vet check.

This is also true if they haven't eaten in more than a couple of days; weight loss and the associated health issues that come from it can come on quickly.

Finally, if your older adult cat is very food averse, has refused to eat for a couple of days, seems ill or in pain, or is even aggressive when you try to feed them, an emergency vet trip may be in order.

Something worse may be going on under the surface, and it's reached a breaking point where they can't hide it anymore, and you need to address it.

To be clear, if your cat hasn't eaten for more than a couple of days, it's best to at least call your vet to talk to them about it.

They'll be able to ask questions to gauge what other symptoms you might be dealing with, including some you may not have known to think about and can determine if a vet trip is appropriate.

You don't want to let your cat struggle for longer than necessary, and an unnecessary vet trip is way better than unnecessary suffering.

Multi-cat Households and Free Feeding

In single-cat households, monitoring a cat's eating habits is very simple. It all comes down to keeping a watchful eye on the amount of food remaining in the bowl. Pretty straightforward, right?

But what if you have 2, 3, 4, or more cats? One common challenge faced by multi-cat households is identifying when one cat isn't eating.

One thing all pet parents with multi-cat households should not do is to free feed. This includes using any kind of electronic feeder. Wait, what?

The set-it-and-forget-it nature of these feeders will very likely prevent you from realizing early on when one of your kitties isn't eating.

As discussed above, liver failure happens very fast in cats. Keeping a close eye on your fur children's eating habits is a must-do for every pet parent, especially if all of them are older cats.

My best advice is to never free-feed when you have multiple cats.

Of course, I'm not recommending that you get rid of that fancy and expensive feeder you just purchased that comes with a fancy app that allows you to monitor all sorts of things.

My advice is to use that feeder and any automatic food dispenser for exceptions and not the norm. For example, you may want to take a short vacation or perhaps do a little mid-day meal while you're at work.

When you have to be away and use the feeder, have your neighbor check on your cats every day during your absence. Your cats will thank you.

How to Encourage Your Older Adult Cat to Eat

If your older fur baby won't eat, don't worry; you're not alone, and you do have options.

There are a lot of different things you can try, and as they won't all work, it's worth experimenting. Just keep in mind that if a technique doesn't work, it's best to try another method.

1. Lightly warm their food.

Heating up their food, particularly if it's wet food, helps make it a lot easier for them (and you, unfortunately) to smell it.

Sometimes, your cat may be losing their sense of smell, either because of congestion or age.

As that happens, they'll be less likely to even know food is available. Warming it up(and stirring it carefully to avoid hot spots) can make it more obvious to them.

2. Add a bit of water to their dry food.

This can be an important option to make it easier to eat dry food. You don't want to turn it into mush completely, but a little bit of moisture can make it easier to eat.

This is also one of the indications that your fur baby may be having a tooth problem; if wet food is fine, but dry food isn't, it might be because they have a hard time chewing it without pain.

“When a cat ages, his teeth may go bad, or he may develop gum disease that may make it difficult to chew dry food. "If they get to that point, then offer them canned food or dry in a finer nugget size,” Dr. Kallfelz | Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine

3. Add something they like to their dish.

There are a few flavors that are extremely attractive to felines and can make them all the more interested in eating, even when they are turning their nose up.

Some options include:

• A small amount of low-sodium, no-onion, no-garlic chicken broth instead of water.
• A small amount of the juice from a plain can of low/no-sodium tuna (not the kind stored in oil, though.)
• A small amount of fish oil, preferably a pet-safe variety.
• A small amount of nutritional yeast; it has a slightly nutty, cheesy flavor cats love.

You don't want to saturate the food in these substances, of course; just add enough to entice them with the smell.

These options can also be tried in combination with the lightly warming food option.

4. Try a dash of catnip.

Catnip stimulates the feline senses.

For some cats, it can make them sleepy; for others, it gives them energy. Still, others aren't really affected by it at all.

Either way, a bit of catnip can be worth a shot; it might help stimulate their appetite enough to make them finally take a few bites.

Just beware: not all catnips are created equal, and some may actually do more harm than good to your cat.

Before you rush to purchase the first catnip you find online, make sure to read my guide on how to buy non-toxic catnip for cats here.

5. Change up the food to a different flavor.

In particular, for wet foods, flavor matters.

Even if it's a food that your cat has been enjoying for years, they may simply decide that they don't like it anymore.

Here's something to consider: if your kitty isn't feeling well, they may associate it with their food.

For years, my Sosa ate (and loved) a specific brand of wet food. After she recovered from her first case of pancreatitis, she refused to eat the food – ever again.

Changing from chicken to fish, or to liver, or another flavor can be a good way to check if they'll be interested in something else.

6. Stick with them (or leave) when they eat.

This is going back to that social/antisocial eating thing.

In many cases, social eaters can eat alone if they feel secure where they live, and antisocial eaters can eat in company if they trust you, so you may not have noticed their preference once they settled into your lives.

However, if they're stressed or ill, their tendencies may become more dramatic, so they may want you nearby or want to be left alone. So, try them both out and see if they help. Some cats are more needy than others!

7. Move their food dish.

Sometimes, food aversion can come from some source of stress or trauma related to the location, not the food or their own health.

Cats like to feel safe while they eat, and if something scares them when they are eating, they may no longer consider that location a safe space to chow down.

So, consider moving their food to another location, preferably one they like to hang out in when they're feeling good.

8. Change their bowl.

Sometimes, the bowl you use to feed your cat may be the culprit.

Any number of things can go wrong with a dish; maybe it needs washing, or it was washed, and the residue of the soap is still on it. Sometimes, a deeper bowl can irritate your fur baby's whiskers (leading to whisker fatigue) and turn them off from eating from it.

You can try serving food on a plate or shallow dish, changing their bowl, or otherwise changing how you feed them and see if any of those steps help.

9. It's time for a vet appointment.

If all else fails, it's time to head to the vet.

Your vet will be able to run some tests to identify any underlying acute or chronic health condition that might be causing your cat to not eat.

When you head to the appointment, come armed with any other changed behaviors you've noticed, how long they've been going on, and any things you've tried to help.

Your vet has a lot of tools that can be added to the list to help your kitty eat. The first is to address the cause – perhaps your kitty has an infection and needs an antibiotic.

Or perhaps they have pancreatitis and need pain meds. Is nausea perhaps the culprit? There's a pill for that, too.

Blood work and a urinalysis can reveal a lot of potential illnesses, but sometimes, additional imagining may be needed, too.

In the end, your vet may send you home with a variety of medications to help your kitty kick their illness to the curb. Some of these medications might include:

• Antibiotics– these will help knock out an infection. Be sure to finish the entire course of treatment, even if your kitty is feeling better.
• Anti-nausea meds– there are a couple of go-to options your vet might give you.
• Pain meds– this is a very common treatment for pancreatitis to help your kitty remain comfortable while they heal.
• Fluids– your vet will check your kitty's gums and may do a skin fold pinch test to see if your kitty is dehydrated. If they are, you may be sent home with a bag of fluids and some needles to administer them subcutaneously.
• An appetite stimulant– appetite stimulants and anti-nausea medications often go hand-in-hand because you don't want to make a cat hungry and feel like throwing up.

Keep in mind that it can take time for a sick kitty to start feeling better, so you may need to return to some of the suggestions above, like warming their food or choosing a nice fishy-smelling option to encourage them to eat.

Caring For A Sick Older Cat That Won’t Eat

I mentioned earlier that my 18-year-old Sosa has had two bouts of pancreatitis:

• The first time, the treatment went pretty smoothly. I closely followed the medication schedule and bought a variety of fishy wet foods (she had only had chicken wet food up until that point). A little warming of the food and offering it multiple times a day, after a few days, she was almost back to normal.
• The second case wasn't as simple. Sosa had a high fever this time; she had licked her nose raw and also had an upset stomach. Her vet appointment was on a Friday morning, and after many tests, poking, and prodding, she received her first dose of all of her meds, and we went home with our fingers crossed, but not feeling hopeful based on her current state.

She was being treated for an infection on top of the pancreatitis, so we were sent home with all the medications noted above. We were at a desperate time in our lives. Given her fragile state and age, the doctor was really concerned that she wasn't going to be able to overcome the infection.

She looked miserable, had lost a substantial amount of weight, and was hot to the touch. She did nothing but sleep the rest of the day.

That evening, I set up a humidifier in her room to help with her congestion. Unfortunately, she didn't eat anything overnight despite the variety of options I left for her. That's when I began hand-feeding her.

Every couple of hours, I would wake her up and offer her a bit of wet food or treats. It was a bite here and a bit there, but hey, it was progress.

Left to her own devices - the bowls of nearby food were ignored. Later, we tried a meat tube treat during her sub-cutaneous fluids, and she was interested.

Meat tubes are not nutritionally balanced, but we had an idea. We crushed the treats she was eating (which, according to the manufacturer, can actually be fed as a balanced meal), mixed them with the meat tube in a sandwich bag, and fed them to her out of a cut corner.

It worked like a charm! She ate a little and was finally getting some good balanced calories into her frail body.

The hand-feeding many, many small meals was working – in fact, it was the only thing that was working (well, of course, the meds, too).

The stronger she got, the more treats we put into the meat tube mix, making it thicker and thicker like a pate wet food.

It took about three days before our Sosa turned a corner, and by a full week, we were able to stop most of the meds.

At this point, though, and still to this day (this article was written eight months after the incident), she's decided she doesn't want any wet or dry food, and she still prefers to be hand-fed.

She pretty much only eats nutritionally balanced treats now – certainly not ideal, but keeping an 18-year-old cat eating is less about "high quality" food and more about balanced calories.

I still use many of the methods above to encourage her to eat. A little warmed wet food – of all different varieties – with a little tuna juice or a little meat tube topper.

I'm constantly changing up the flavor of the treats, and I like to add catnip to her wet food. She also has food and water options in all of her favorite napping spots.

Overall, Sosa still prefers being hand-fed, and what my little love wants, she gets.

In closing, I'll leave you with a few additional recommendations to encourage your older cat to eat:

• Feed smaller, more frequent meals.
• Variety is often the spice of life for an older cat, so avoid buying cases of something they like because they may not like it tomorrow (it's like they know a full case arrived so it's time to start boycotting).
• Try different textures of wet food. Pate, shredded, cuts, in gravy, etc. They all have different appeal levels to a kitty that isn't eating.
• Keep in touch with your vet. If your kitty is ill, tweaks in medication may be needed as you try to get over the hump of the worst of the illness.
• Take notes. It can be hard to remember what worked and what didn't. It's also helpful to know the results of starting or stopping a med, especially when they can be given at different intervals.
• Reach out to groups with similar issues. In particular, there are a bunch of Facebook groups for cats with health conditions, and they are often a wealth of knowledge, if not another person, to remotely lean on.
• Don't be discouraged. Getting an older cat to eat is often challenging and can be emotionally draining. Just do the best you can and enjoy each day you have with your baby.

Have you ever had to deal with a situation where your fur baby wasn't eating? If so, what did you do to resolve the issue, or did it simply resolve itself? Be sure to leave your stories down below; I'd love to hear them all!

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It's only been relatively recently that people have discovered cats are largely lactose intolerant, and while they'll happily drink what you give them, it can upset their tummies and cause them all kinds of problems. That's a bowl of milk, though.

What about whipped cream? Can cats have whipped cream as a treat or is it dangerous? Well, the short answer is yes, they can but no, they probably shouldn’t.

However, you can use whipped cream strategically only when and if, needed. I’m sharing a great educational video by the Kitten Lady about this, it’s a must watch!

Today I’ll talk about a cat’s intolerance to lactose, the reasons why cats love milk, dangerous ingredients in whipped cream and some good safe alternatives to whipped cream.

Can Cats Have Whipped Cream as a Treat? Answers Around the Web

Before digging into our own analysis, let's look at what a few other pet sites have to say about the topic.

On one side of the issue, we have MrBossCat.com:

"Our best answer to this question is that, yes, cats can have whipped cream. However, most cats should not have any dairy as they are lactose intolerant. While cats can have a few tablespoons of whipped cream a week, they shouldn't have more than that."

This is backed up by LiveLongAndPawsPurr.com:

"A little bit of dairy, or whipped cream, on special occasions, doesn't cause any damage to your cat's overall health. But continued exposure can eventually cause long-term issues."

On the other hand, some pet experts take a stronger perspective on the issue. Here's one from AskMyCats.com:

"No, in general, cats can't have whipped cream. Healthy cats may tolerate little amounts of whipped cream on rare occasions. Whipped cream, on the other hand, includes chemicals that are harmful to cats. As a result, it is preferable to seek a healthier alternative snack."

When it comes right down to it, all of these blogs are saying more or less the same thing, though. So, let's break it down to discuss how they likely arrived at their answers.

Cats Are Lactose Intolerant

The first thing to discuss was already mentioned above: almost all cats are lactose intolerant. In fact, you might be surprised to hear that most adult animals (and even most people) are lactose intolerant.

It's considered kind of weird that humans drink milk as much as we do, and even then, it's only some cultures that place as much emphasis on it as we do.

Animals (mammals, anyway) drink milk from their mothers as babies but quickly grow out of that phase and start to wean off milk. Most then start to develop an intolerance to the primary sugar in milk, lactose.

This intolerance is caused by a lack of an enzyme (lactase) needed to break down the lactose. Since many humans love the taste of milk, you can find everything from lactose-free milk to medications like Lactaid to help digest that milk sugar.

Anyone who has ever tried milk while being lactose intolerant knows how unpleasant it can be. Digestive issues arise quickly. This can result in anything from bloating, awful flatulence to stomach pain and cramping, vomiting, and diarrhea.

The actual problem is that lactose is a sugar. Sugar breaks down and ferments when certain kinds of bacteria are present, and those bacteria are present in the stomach.

Fermentation creates a lot of gas and sugar alcohol, which bloats up the stomach, causes flatulence and pain, and cycles through to other issues as the body tries to get rid of it. It can be very unpleasant for both humans and kitties!

Now, not all cats are lactose intolerant. Mammals generally lose the digestive enzyme that allows them to process lactose over time. Some lose it very quickly; others lose it slowly, and some don't lose it at all.

This is why some cats can drink milk all day and be fine, and others can clear a room 20 minutes after taking a few laps.

Why Do Cats Love Milk and Cream When It's Bad For Them?

If it's unpleasant to eat dairy, why would cats still go after that milk or whipped cream when it's offered to them? There are a couple of reasons for why cream/milk/dairy is still pretty attractive to a cat.

The first reason is that milk is high in protein and fat, whole milk more so, and heavy cream (the kind of cream used in whipped cream) most of all. Cats are carnivores which means they seek out foods with proteins and fats.

For a cat, this would usually mean meat, but in our homes, dairy based products are another attractive option.

Of course, we don't usually put whipped cream in the same category as ground beef. That's because, to us, whipped cream is packed with sugar and is quite sweet.

Cats don't really have the same taste receptors we do, though, and they don't taste the sugar. All they sense is the fats and proteins in the cream.

It’s worth noting that cats don’t have the ability to taste sweets. My sister, who by the way is a healthcare professional, might disagree with this scientific finding because she once had a kitty that would always try to devour anything she baked!

My only point here is that what’s pleasing to us isn’t the same reason your cat wants dairy based products.

The second reason a cat might be attracted to dairy products is that any unpleasant side effects from eating dairy may be delayed enough that they don't associate the two experiences with one another.

If you've read anything about training cats, you know that you need rapid responses between behavior and reward in order for your feline to associate the two.

Lactose reactions are generally somewhat delayed – it takes time for the cream to hit the digestive system, react poorly, and show symptoms – so your cat likely won't associate the bad feelings with the cream.

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Some Whipped Cream Can Have Dangerous Ingredients

Now, let's get into the dark side of whipped cream for a moment.

Whipped cream is generally made up of three main ingredients: cream, sugar, and air.

It's easy to make on your own if you have a stand mixer, and technically you don't even need the sugar; you just need to whip the cream with air enough to fluff it up.

Many store-bought whipped creams do include added sugar, though. This is because plain cream might taste a little off-putting for many people, and sugar makes it more palatable. As I mentioned above, though, cats can't taste sugar.

Just because they don't taste it doesn't mean they don't process it, though. Even though they're carnivores, their little bodies can process glucose and fructose, and those sugars can cause all kinds of damage.

Sugar in excess can lead to diabetes and obesity, and those can be difficult or impossible to reverse. Remember that the combination of a balanced diet and exercise makes for a healthy cat.

Whipped cream is also largely milk fats, and those milk fats can contribute to obesity in cats. It just keeps going, doesn't it?

If you're buying store-bought whipped cream, especially whipped cream in a can, you're going to find other ingredients that can be bad for cats, too.

• Carrageenan is a stabilizer that helps keep whipped cream from melting. It’s derived from seaweed, which seems safe enough right? The problem is what was found in a 2017 study that found carrageenan could cause intestinal inflammation. Full disclosure, a 2018 review of carrageenan, said the same conclusion couldn’t be drawn and that more research is needed. So, in short, the jury is still out on this one.
• Sugar alternatives cats are obligate carnivores, so they require a meat source to get their nutrition. Those mice out in the wild aren’t covered in sugar much less corn syrup, which is a commonly added sweetener in whipped cream.
• Preservatives are also common in store bought whipped cream.

Up to this point we’ve been talking about true whipped cream, which is generally a limited ingredient item. You might also be familiar with the blue tub of alternative whipped topping in the refrigerator section of the grocery store.

While it’s often used interchangeably with whipped cream as a dessert topping, it’s much less cream and more so processed and artificial ingredients.

These are not limited to high fructose corn syrup, hydrogenated vegetable oil, artificial flavors and colors. Ditch this option if you’re ever considering giving a taste to your kitty.

What About Lactose-Free Dairy?

I mentioned it in passing above, but we humans are pretty clever.

We know some people enjoy milk but are lactose intolerant, so we found a way to make milk that doesn't have lactose in it. Is that kind of milk – as whipped cream – any better for cats?

The answer here is a solid "maybe, but probably not."

• Lactose-free dairy whipped cream is hard to find and still includes plenty of sugar and ingredients like carrageenan.
• Fully vegan whipped creams also include a lot of sugar and oils, which aren't good for your fur baby, no matter how you slice it.
• Many non-dairy alternatives use coconut milk, which is extremely high in fats and sugars, making it almost worse than dairy, even if it doesn't trigger lactose intolerance.

Whipped Cream is Generally Safe for Cats in Small Doses

If you’re going to give your kitty dairy, plain whipped cream is probably the safest option you can give. Why?

Well, whipped cream is whipped, which fluffs the cream up with a lot with air. That means it's a relatively low concentration of dairy and lactose, and other potentially harmful ingredients.

If you're going to use whipped cream, it's almost always better to make it yourself, so neither you nor your furry friends are exposed to the chemicals present in various artificial foods.

When you purchase your heavy whipping cream, be sure to check the ingredient label to confirm there aren’t any additives.

A tablespoon of whipped cream isn't going to cause problems in many cats and can only really be harmful if:

• You give your cat this treat every day or worse, multiple times a day.
• Multiple people give your cat treats, not knowing the others are too.
• Your cat has other health issues, like diabetes or obesity.

So, if you're making yourself dessert and you want to give your furry friend a dab of whipped cream as a treat for being a good baby, well, it's probably not going to hurt them. And while perhaps you shouldn’t, who can resist those begging faces. Am I right?

One big problem is that they tend to remember everything about the whipped cream experience. So the next time you are making desert, they will run to you to beg for it as they associate all your behavior related sounds with the yummy experience.

Remember, cats don’t have sweet taste receptors, so they will likely prefer a more species appropriate treat.

Now, having said that, sometimes a little bit of bad to do good might be justified. For example, you may want to use whipped cream to keep your cat distracted while you perform a necessary procedure on them.

Check out this video by Kitten Lady on how to use whipped cream for the good of your kitty.

I guess that we can all agree that sometimes, giving your cat whipped cream can be justified.

What are Better Treats than Whipped Cream?

Now, all you cat parents out there know just as well as I do that our fur babies are adept at begging just as much as those dogs with their cute puppy eyes. And who can say no to that fuzzy little face?

Treats are an important part of rewarding behaviors and high-value training. And yes, cats can be trained!

So, keeping some high-value treats on hand can be a great idea. Whipped cream is often thought of as one such treat, but as I just extensively analyzed, it's not as good a treat as you might hope.

So, what should you do instead?

• Fish. Little bits of salmon, tuna, or mackerel can be a great little treat for your cat. If you’re making these at home, make sure to exclude all seasonings.
• Meat. A bit of chicken or beef can be a great treat too. While your fur baby can eat it raw, it's usually a better idea to cook it (no spices or salt, please) just to avoid any possible pathogens. Avoid salted cuts like bacon, deli meat, or cold cuts.
• Some Cheese. Certain cheeses are dairy that have had their lactose processed out and can still be a decent little treat, but you still don't want to turn to it very often.
• Egg. A bit of cooked egg can be a good treat for your fur baby too. It's high in protein and low in all the harmful things, but you do need to make sure to cook it properly. Go light on the oil or butter, and avoid salt and other spices.

Now that you know what you should (and shouldn't) be feeding your furry feline friend as a treat, you can start looking to other aspects of your cat's diet.

Treats should always be pretty limited as rewards for your cat since too many of them can lead to feline obesity and other health issues.

Oh, and make sure to approve anything you want to feed them with your vet; if your cat has any health issues, allergies, or other problems, your vet will know what they shouldn't have.

So, to wrap it up, here’s my final two cents on the topic. A small amount of natural whipped cream isn’t going to permanently hurt your kitty. It should however always be avoided for obese kitties and those with diabetes.

It’s just plain excess calories and could cause some digestive upset, but symptoms should pass with no lingering issues.

Sometimes we all want to eat or overeat foods that don’t agree with us, so it’s important to watch your kitty for any digestive symptoms after a dairy based treat.

And since cats can’t taste sweets, consider something more to their liking such as a freeze-dried meat treat!

Tell me, what kind of treats do you give to your feline friend, and which are their favorites? Do they love any of the listed recommendations above? Be sure to let me know! I absolutely love hearing about all your fur babies and the stories they create!

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One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

As always, if you found this content useful, all our blog content on toe beans is shareable. So, what are you waiting for to spread the love? Go ahead and hit any social media icon of your preference around the post for instant sharing with friends and family. Sharing is caring!

If you are anything like me, your are probably concerned with feeding your dog toxic ingredients and other harmful substances that most commercially available treats are packed with.

In this post I came up with a comprehensive list of organic dog treat options for healthier snacks.

This post comes with a nice gift. As a bonus, I'm adding a must-have, must-share guide on some of the most pervasive and non-intuitive pitfalls to avoid when buying packaged dog treats.

Hopefully this section will help raise awareness about the dangers of buying treats for your dog.

I’ve also added a great educational video by the FDA on xylitol for Dogs. This is a must watch!

As usual my blog is packed with research-backed knowledge. For pet parents looking for reliable, unbiased and fact-based dog care guides, I have sprinkled some additional great ones throughout the post.

Enjoy!

Are Homemade Treats Better For Your Dog?

The short answer is yes they are. The long one is, so long as you know what ingredients are safe and which ones to avoid in your recipes.

Not all human-safe ingredients are dog-safe. Some seemingly innocuous ingredients commonly found in our pantry may be toxic to your dog.

Some of these ingredients include:

• Grapes and Raisins
• Chocolate
• Macadamia nuts
• Onions
• Avocado
• Caffeine (coffee, tea etc.)
• Garlic
• Alcohol
• Lemons, limes

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And so, to be safe we recommend pet parents do research on every ingredient in every recipe you make at home.

A simple online search such as "is garlic safe for my dog" will provide you with what you need to know to assess ingredient safety in your recipe.

Have you ever taken a look at the ingredients list on the dog treats you buy at the store?

You know the ones, packaged with a smiling puppy and a bright background, hanging from pegs or perched on shelves near the checkout lanes. What about those yummy jerky treats that your dog goes nuts about?

What's in those?

• BHA/BHT Preserved Beef Fat
• Dicalcium Phosphate
• Sodium Metabisulfite
• Corn Syrup
• Propylene Glycol
• Titanium Dioxide
• Red 40 Lake
• Globally Sourced Ingredients (AKA ingredients that come from China)

Sure, most of them claim to have been made with "natural" ingredients, but this claim begs two important questions:

Are they made with natural ingredients too? or, are they made with natural ingredients only?

The answers to these two questions may mark the quality of life your pup will have for the rest of his life.

"As of December 31, 2015, FDA has received approximately 5,200 complaints of illnesses associated with consumption of chicken, duck, or sweet potato jerky treats, many of which involve products imported from China, which produces much of the jerky pet treats on the market. The reports involve more than 6,200 dogs, 26 cats, three people, and include more than 1,140 canine deaths."- FDA.gov

The numbers presented above are in no way meant to scare you, not at all. But rather, they are meant to educate and increase awareness about the risks involved when buying anything edible for your fur children.

Would you want to eat food with a list of ingredients like the one above? Full of preservatives, dyes, and "globally sourced" ingredients? I know I wouldn't.

Every pet parent knows that buying dog treats is about one and only one thing: ingredient safety

When it comes time to give my fur baby a treat, I oftentimes think about making my own. Sure, it's a lot more work than picking up something at the store, but it's way healthier, or should I say healthy, period.

Some veterinarians even say that homemade natural treats have many advantages over store bought pet treats.

Now, if you want to make sure your furry friend is getting healthy, truly safe, and nutritional treats, keep on reading. I've put together a list of some of my favorite recipes for homemade treats you can try out, and your pup is sure to love.

And, if you're not quite sure if you want to spend the time making your own treats, I have another option for you at the end. So, how about those recipes?

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Whole Foods

First up are some of the easiest treats you can give to your pup: whole foods. Fresh fruits, frozen vegetables; these kinds of treats are tasty, healthy, and easy to keep on hand.

They don't take much preparation, and they're healthy for your pup, too. We all know that look of puppy dog yearning when your pet pal wants a bite of whatever you're eating, so when you have a healthy snack, you don't have to feel bad about giving them some.

Consider:

• Apple slices. The core and seeds of the apple should be removed, but the skin is fine. Just make sure to chop the apple into slices or cubes so the pieces don't get caught when your pup scarfs it down.
• Green beans. Fresh and frozen are both great options, and if you need something a little softer, cooked green beans can be a tasty treat too. Just make sure not to cover them with salt, butter, or spices, at least not for your pup's portion.
• Watermelon chunks. Watermelon is full of water and tasty sweetness, it's easy to eat (albeit a little messy), and it's healthy for your fur baby. For a great summer treat, a few watermelon cubes are unmatched. Just remove the seeds and don't give them the rind.
• Bananas. A few chunks of banana can be a delicious, sweet treat for your puppy pal. Just make sure not to give them too much since they're loaded in sugar (especially when ripe), and you don't want to overdo it.
• Berries. Berries are a top treat for people and dogs alike. Full of nutrients and vitamins, berries are tasty, easy to handle, and great as rewards.

Those are all fine, but what about more traditional treat-like options? If you want something baked, something made out of multiple ingredients, or something made with a little peanut butter, keep reading.

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Oat and Bacon Balls

First up, this recipe comes from ShowMeTheYummy. It's incredibly easy to make; just mix up the ingredients, roll them into balls, roll in oats to coat, and you're good to go. Here's a detailed rundown.

Ingredients:

• 1 Cup Pumpkin Puree
• 1 Cup Applesauce
• ½ Cup Peanut Butter
• ½ Cup Plain Yogurt
• 2 Strips of Bacon, Cooked and Crumbled
• 5 Cups Old Fashioned Oats

To make the recipe, start by combining the pumpkin, applesauce, yogurt, and peanut butter in a bowl, stirring to combine. Then, stir in the bacon bits and oats to give it substance.

Next, you can use a cookie scoop or a spoon to scoop out equally sized chunks and roll them into balls. The recipe above will make around 32 treat balls. You can store these in the fridge for around 4-5 days or freeze them for up to four months.

Make sure, when you're picking ingredients, to always get plain, natural versions. Applesauce, for example, is available in a wide range of different flavors, like strawberry or cinnamon.

These flavors generally come with sugars. Always choose unsweetened applesauce for your pup and make sure to give it to him in moderation.

Additionally, try to buy organic and ensure there are no preservatives or other additives in them. Alternatively, you can buy apples and make your own (just leave out the cinnamon and sugar, Fido doesn't need it.)

The same goes for things like yogurt and peanut butter. It's always better to get healthy, organic versions of these foods for your dog.

Peanut butter, in particular, needs to be carefully and thoroughly checked; you want to avoid any of the "sugar-free" peanut butters that use xylitol, which is toxic to dogs but is commonly used as an artificial sweetener for humans.

"In dogs, the pancreas confuses xylitol with real sugar and releases insulin to store the “sugar.” Even worse, the canine pancreas releases 3-7 times the amount of insulin that it would release to address a similar amount of actual sugar. Blood sugar levels plummet resulting in weakness, disorientation, tremors, and potentially seizures." - Wendy Brooks, DMV, DABVP - Veterinary Partner.com

According to the FDA, death in dogs due to consumption of xylitol can occur in as little as 1 hour.

Watch this 85 second video by the FDA on xylitol for Dogs:

Baked Bone Treats

These bone-shaped treats are like healthy little cookies, easily made at home and baked for your dog whenever you need them. This recipe comes from Wholefully.

Ingredients:

• 2 ¾ Cups of Whole Wheat Flour
• 1 Cup Wheat Germ
• ½ Cup Ground Flax Seed
• 3 Large Eggs
• ½ Cup Olive Oil
• ½ Cup Applesauce
• ½ Cup Pumpkin Puree (Make sure it's just pumpkin and not pie filler)
• 1 Tablespoon Honey

You'll notice a few familiar ingredients here. Pumpkin and applesauce are both healthy, simple, easy to find, and filling, and dogs love them. That's why they're found in just about every dog treat recipe you can find online.

Other ingredients in this recipe are more about giving it substance, so it bakes. In particular, tat's what the flour and eggs do.

To make this recipe, start by heating your oven to 350 degrees. Grease or line a couple of baking sheets, too. In a bowl, mix together the flour, wheat germ, and flax seeds.

In a different bowl, mix the eggs, oil, applesauce, pumpkin, and honey. Once they're both mixed and thoroughly combined, you can add the wet bowl into the dry bowl and stir it up. This will make your dough.

Use a rolling pin to flatten the dough until it's about a quarter of an inch thick. Having made a ton of dog treats, a trick I find useful is to layer the dough between two sheets of parchment paper.

It prevents the dough from sticking to your rolling pin. Then, cut it into whatever shapes you want. A dog bone shape is traditional but requires a cookie cutter to do it. Of course, it's perfectly fine if you just cut it into squares or rectangles. If you have a pizza cutter, it’ll work perfectly.

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Arrange your shapes on your baking sheets about an inch apart, and bake for 25-30 minutes. You'll want them to be quite hard and a deep brown, though not burned, of course. Pull them out, let them cool, and give your pooch a treat.

Doggo Biscuit Bites

These dog treat bites look a little bit like hard cakes or cookies and are perfect for little snacks or rewards for your canine companion. One batch makes around 50 treats, according to the source, Nutrition Stripped.

Ingredients:

• 2 Cups Mashed Sweet Potato
• ½ Cup Peanut Butter
• 2 Eggs
• ½ Banana
• 2 Tablespoons Coconut Oil
• 3 Cups Rice Flour
• 1 Teaspoon Baking Soda

This recipe is going to take more time than the previous two. To make the mashed sweet potato, you’ll need to peel and boil the potatoes until they're tender, which will take around 20 minutes.

Once drained, mash them and let them cool. If you want a smoother consistency, you can "mash" them in a blender too, but I've found that a potato masher works just fine, and a fork will do in a pinch.

You can also buy canned sweet potato or use pumpkin puree instead (again avoid the pill fillings as they have additional ingredients).

This is another baking recipe, so preheat your oven to 350. Beat the eggs, then mix in the sweet potato. Then, stir in the flour and remaining ingredients until you have a batter.

Pour this onto a rimmed baking tray that has been lined with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. You're basically making a large sheet cake. It should cover a 9x13 baking tray. Bake for about 20 minutes.

Once cooked into a cake form, remove from the oven and let cool for about 5 minutes, or until it's cool enough to handle carefully.

Pull the cake out of the baking sheet and cut it into strips like long, thin rectangles, an appropriate dog treat size.

Put an oven-safe cooling rack on top of the baking sheet, put the cake strips on it with a bit of space between each, and bake for another 10 minutes. This dries out and hardens the cake.

You can store these in a jar in the pantry for about a month or in the fridge for closer to two, though be wary of condensation as it will make the treats soggy. You can also cut them smaller if your dog is a smaller breed and can't have such a large cookie treat.

Simple Four-Ingredient Dog Biscuits

This one is a fairly similar recipe and process to the bone-shaped biscuits above, but it's fewer ingredients and is a little easier to make. It comes from EatingBirdFood and makes a whopping 120 miniature bone treats, perfect for small dogs.

Ingredients:

• 1 Cup Wheat Flour
• ½ Cup Peanut Butter
• ¼ Cup Applesauce
• ¼ Cup Vegetable, Chicken, or Beef Broth (Make sure your choice is garlic and onion free as they can be harmful to your pup.)

Again, since this is a baked recipe, preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Mix your flour, peanut butter, and applesauce in a bowl until combined.

Then, add the broth and mix until you have a thick dough ball. Use a rolling pin to roll out the dough until it's thin and use a cookie cutter to cut it into treat-sized bits. Any excess can be re-balled, re-rolled, and re-cut until you've used it all.

Arrange the biscuits on your baking sheets and bake for about 18 minutes, or until they harden and crisp up. You can then store them however you like, and hand them out like the treats they are.

Fur-Healthy Coconut Oil Treats

Coconut is one of the best ingredients you can feed to your dog to help promote healthy skin and healthy, shiny coats.

Coconut oil has a whole host of health benefits, which is why it makes a great ingredient in some healthy dog treats.

These treats are formed in a mold sort of like chocolate candies (but without the chocolate, obviously) and are simple and easy to make, courtesy of Golden Barrel.

Ingredients:

• 1 Cup Coconut Oil
• 1 Cup Peanut Butter
• 1 Teaspoon Cinnamon

To make these treats, you need a saucepan or a pot and a silicone mold in the shape and size of the treat you want to have when you're done.

They're really simple to make. Add all three ingredients to your pot over medium-low heat. You want to melt the coconut oil and the peanut butter until you can stir them smooth, with the cinnamon evenly mixed throughout.

Once it's all melted and smooth, pour it into your molds and pop them into the freezer. They'll set up pretty quick.

Silicone molds are easy to pop treats out of, so you can keep them stored in the fridge or freezer, and pull them out when you want to hand one over.

Too Much Work?

If you don't have the kitchen space, the tools, or the time to make your dog treats by hand, there's still one option available to you: buying some.

The trick is you need to look for healthy, natural, and chemical-free dog treats from a reputable manufacturer/seller.

I’ve tried well over a dozen recipes and even tasted the results for myself. While this was fun to do around the holidays to share with my pup parent neighbors, it’s not something I have time for on a regular basis.

Knowing time is limited in our busy lives and reading ingredient labels takes a lot of that precious time, that's why I decided to start my own research and development process to make my own.

I've spent the last 12 months scouring the country for reliable partners to manufacture 100% safe, nutritious, and delicious dog treats.

They aren't quite ready yet, but be sure to check back soon. I have a whole bunch of USDA certified organic, cool new products on the way, we’re just putting the final touches to make sure they’ll get two paws up.

Buying Dog Treats is About One and Only One Thing: Ingredient Safety

When it comes to buying dog treats, does it seem to you that the internet is fraught with recommendations of what to buy? "Best natural treats..."; "Top 10 treats your dog will love...", "The best human-grade dog treats for 202...". And the list goes on and on and on.

If it seems like it, it's because it's true. All those recommendations are just different ways in which people make money. They are basically info-graphics that make the writer money.

There seems to be no concern at all about ingredient integrity or product claim verifiability. And, nobody seems to care about the safety of what you feed your dog but rather they seem to only care about making money with recommendations at the expense of your beloved fur children's health and happiness. It is sad and of course frustrating.

But no worries, this is where Toe Beans fits in. I founded toe beans with dog and cat safety as my number one concern. I've written extensively to help educate pet parents to make smart decisions on behalf of their furry children.

Back to our bonus section. Today you are in for a treat.

Next time, before you buy dog treats, and in general anything that your dog consumes orally, ask yourself this simple but critical question:

“Based on the information provided on the product listing and the product package, can I rest assured no ingredients in this product will harm my dog?”

If your answer is a resounding yes, then you're good to go, buy it.

However, for the average busy pet parent, answering this question conclusively takes some skill, countless hours of research and of course common sense and intuition. But no worries, I've gotcha.

For starters, you have to make sure you ignore the noise and all the carefully crafted distractions on the package and the listing itself.

And that of course includes the oftentimes insurmountable number of outstanding reviews.

As we have covered in other posts, product reviews and badges are to be taken with a grain of salt. Unscrupulous sellers have been taking advantage of this for years now.

The product review problem is so pervasive that the Federal Trade Commission has gotten involved.

“Companies including Amazon.com Inc. and Facebook Inc. could face fines over fake reviews or other misleading endorsements online, according to a warning from the Federal Trade Commission...The agency (FTC) sent more than 700 companies a notice that they could incur penalties of up to $43,792 per violation if they use endorsements in ways that run counter to past FTC enforcement cases.- Bloomberg Law

Did you check the list of companies in the link above? Does this surprise you?

In an article titled "Amazon Buyers Beware: Scammers Are Targeting the Best-Seller Badge" Bloomberg reports on product miscategorization a clever tactic employed by unscrupulous merchants on the largest eCommerce platform.

"The perpetrators win by boosting their own sales, which can jump by as much as 50% with the best-seller imprimatur, according to Lesley Hensell." - Bloomberg

In our experience, the safety of the ingredients in the dog or cat treats you choose for your furry children will be a function of a number of factors such as:

• Quality and integrity of ingredients
• Country of origin of ingredients (all of them)
• Country of manufacture.
• Verifiability and transparency of product claims.
• Trustworthiness and reputation of seller/manufacturer.

Here are some key considerations regarding these factors.

Made in the USA is not a high enough threshold for safety

I’m sure up until now you may have favored dog and cat treats that showed this claim on the packaging. Am I right? What's wrong with this you may ask?

Well, the truth is that to make the most profit, many manufacturers will cut costs by using the lowest quality ingredients that come from countries known for their high level of toxins and chemicals in foods.

And so, they are happy making low quality dog treats in the USA while using imported ingredients from China, AKA "globally sourced" ingredients.

What you really want to buy is dog and cat treats that are made in the US only with USA sourced ingredients.

Dog and cat treats that are made with US sourced ingredients will disclose this claim loud and clear on the packaging.

Made in the USA with the “finest globally sourced” ingredients

This is a variation of the claim above. The verbiage sounds fancy, doesn't it?

I can see how many pet parents can easily fall for this one. I'm sure it sounds like some ingredients came from Italy, France, or maybe Spain, doesn't it?

But the truth is, you can be sure that globally sourced in most cases means that the ingredients came from a country they’d rather not disclose as you most probably wouldn't buy it.

Let’s face it, if any of the ingredients came from a European country or any other country known for its high-quality food, they would put it right on front of the package:

“made with the finest Argentinian beef,” for example. That'd be really cool and I would be the first to buy such treat for my pup :-)

In most cases, globally sourced means that one of those global countries is China. It could be the main ingredient or a key ingredient.

The thing is, for the manufacturer, that ingredient imported from China is helping them fatten their profits.

Organic product claims that are not backed up with a certification

You can rest assured the product is anything but organic. So, you can either do more research on the product or look the other way.

Believe it or not, this is a real problem. And, it's more pervasive than most people think.

Does this surprise you? Here is the scariest part, even on the largest Ecommerce sites, fake organic products are being sold everyday!

The main problem with sites like these is that their sheer size makes it difficult and even impossible to verify the claims in every product they sell.

If after reading this blog post you feel that you have been a victim of such sellers or simply want to contribute to a safer world for cats (and other living creatures), you can file a complaint with the USDA to report them.

Taking action is caring!

Made With 100% Natural Ingredients Should Never be a Proxy for Safe

This claim is one that will catch any pet parents’ attention and that will most likely result in a purchase.

Did you know that arsenic, macadamia nuts and, onions are 100% natural too?

The truth is that natural only means that a given ingredient exists in nature but not that it is safe to consume.

Understanding this is more so important today as increasingly marketers will do almost anything to create the most unthinkable distractions on their products with the sole purpose of outdoing their competitors.

Don't take our word for it. Here is the position of The American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) regarding the currently unrestricted use of the word natural on pet food:

“Natural” is a descriptive term that sounds positive, even though misperceptions about the word abound in regards to pet food labeling and claims. In the past, the term was undefined in both state and federal feed control jurisdictions and was not seen in the marketplace. But in an effort to appeal to customers, marketers have increasingly used the term on pet food product labeling. - AAFCO

So, make sure that you read through the whole list of ingredients before you buy your next dog treat made with "100% natural ingredients".

Unsubstantiated Value Enhancing Product Claims

This one is related to the transparency in product claims.

At the lowest end of the sophistication spectrum in terms of marketing gimmicks, you will find the “premium dog treat” claims.

Does anybody know what this means exactly? We've found that most products with this claim tend not to be made in the US, and the source of their ingredients is dubious.

If you take your time to read through these product listings and packaging, you'll likely find that nothing explains the premium nature of the product.

Is the product made from organic ingredients? Is it made from the finest Wagyu beef? Were chickens raised without antibiotics? Free range? Does it contain a specific unique ingredient that has been known to improve the life of dogs? Etc.

This claim is so baseless and unverifiable that it should be banned. Oh, I forgot for a second that in the eCommerce wild west, there is no dog treat police. So, watch out!

“Human grade” dog treat claims are most likely to be a sham

Just like the premium dog treat claim, this one should be banned too.

Here is what The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) says about this claim:

“This term has no definition in any animal feed regulations. Extremely few pet food products could be considered officially human edible or human-grade. A pet food that met these standards would be expensive. While pet owners can buy what they feel is best for their pet, they should understand the definitions and the odds... A product might claim to be human-grade because its ingredients “came from a USDA meat-packing plant.” But materials leaving a USDA meatpacking plant may be either edible or inedible.” – Association of American Feed Control Officials

Think of the AAFCO statement above for a minute.

How many dog treats can you think of that make this type of statement? The scary truth is, almost every other dog treat/food makes this claim today!

Here is one thing you can do before you buy any dog treat that makes such statement: submit the treat to the toddler test. I’m not asking you to give it to your toddler, not at all.

What I’m asking is that you post the following yes/no question(s) on the Ecommerce platform where the treat is being sold. Basically post it publicly so everybody can see it.

“Given these treats are human grade, do I need to keep them out of reach from my small children?”

Alternatively, you could also ask:

“Given these are human grade, is it safe to keep these treats within reach of my small children or should I keep them in a high cabinet?”

As you can see, the questions about are simply yes/no questions as opposed to open ended questions and so the answers should include at a minimum a yes or a no in the opening statement.

Assuming the “human grade” claim is 100% true, you should have a resounding “no need” for the first question and a “yes” for the second.

If on the contrary the answer you get does not conclusively address your concern, but rather you notice that the manufacturer rambles around and talks about stuff you did not ask about, then you are free to draw your own conclusions on whether you should purchase or not.

Of course, our recommendation will always be a resounding “stay away from products with dubious claims. Dubious claims are always used to cover something up.”

It will always come down to the one simple question you should always ask yourself before buying anything edible for your dog:

“Based on the information provided on the product listing and the product package, can I rest assured no ingredients in this product will harm my dog?”

This tactic raises two critical questions:

The first one is, what compels a dog treat manufacturer to make such a claim on a product? And the second one, what is a manufacturer that uses such claims trying to distract pet parents from?

USDA organic is by default non-GMO but Non-GMO is not USDA organic

The non-GMO certification is only truly safe when it comes together with the USDA organic certification.

Product review manipulation is a real thing

Shocked? Don’t be, just make sure to disregard popular product reviews that go into such detail describing their dogs body language after eating them.

I’m sure all of us have run into the popular “Fido loves these treats…” or "My pup runs to me just by hearing the sound of the bag" types of reviews.

This is perhaps the one type of reviews that tends to be the most successful in distracting pet parents from what’s really important at the moment of purchase:

determining whether the ingredients in the product are 100% safe for their dogs.

The one thing we highly advise you should always keep in mind when you run into these types of reviews is that neither you, nor your dog, can detect (through smell or taste) that their treat is safe or, it’s contaminated with salmonella, or contains pesticides, heavy metals, any poisonous “natural” ingredients, or even anything that can harm them.

Bottom line here is that relying on dog treat reviews as a purchase criteria alone might be a dangerous proposition.

A dog treat with zero reviews that provides verifiable information to help you conclusively ascertain the safety of its ingredients may be much better option than one with hundreds or even thousands of reviews but with a package and listing information that makes you go hmmm.

Only buy USDA certified organic dog treats

In a world where there is almost no accountability for what people sell online, your safest bet is to buy USDA certified organic dog treats.

Dog treats that bear the USDA certified organic seal are certified to have been made with ingredients that were either produced or grown with no prohibited substances or dangerous toxic chemicals. The USDA organic seal is protected by federal regulation.

But before you jump on your computer to buy the first dog treat you find with the USDA certified organic seal on it, I should warn you that even in this space there are a ton of scammers out there.

Watch out for fake organic products. There are many unscrupulous sellers that will misrepresent their products by unlawfully slapping the USDA organic seal on their products.

Marketplaces such as AMZ have made it so easy for anybody around the world to sell anything to the US consumer.

As a consequence, cyber sellers around the world that use reputable platforms in the US can easily break any US rules and get away with it as they are nowhere to be found.

So, to make sure you are actually buying a truly USDA certified organic dog treat, here are a few things you want to look for on the product listing:

1. The USDA certified organic seal should be prominently visible on the package.
2. The listing title should also say the word organic.
3. The name of the organic certifier should be visible on the product package. Some sellers will even dedicate a full image to this. You should be able to spot text similar to this: “Certified organic by PCO” for example. BTW, PCO is our certifying body.
4. Read the ingredients. Almost all if not all MUST be organic ingredients.

While I’m unable to protect every pet parent from all pitfalls and gimmicks out there, I hope these considerations will hep you make better informed decisions when it comes to buying truly safe dog treats for your pup.

Just as with us humans, in most cases the quality and length of your pup's life and health will be a function of the quality of what you feed them.

Choosing high quality treats and food for your dog requires, time, patience, skill and love. The more you educate yourself about it the higher the odds for a happier and longer-living pup.

Feed them the first cheap food or treat your run into and you will most likely have a short-lived and sickly pup. Feed them quality food and the odds are pretty good that your pup will live as much as nature intended.

So, what's your dog's favorite kind of treat? Do you prefer to make your own, buy them, or do both when the mood strikes? If you weren't making your own previously, are you inspired to try it out now? Do any of the options on this list stick out to you? If so, which one, and why?

Additionally, if you have any healthy, organic treat options not on this list, please feel free to share them! I'd love to hear your thoughts!

If you found this article useful, will you share it?

We’ve made it easy in our blog for pet parents to help others by sharing. Simply click on any social media icon located around this post.

Below are the instructions on how to make 4 ingredient cat treats! It’s super simple, so give it a shot!

Ingredients

• 1 – 5.5 oz can of tuna (I looked for sustainably sourced tuna with little or no added salt)
• 1 cup of all purpose flour
• 1 large egg
• 1 tablespoon of organic dried catnip

Step 1:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees

Step 2:

Blend all ingredients in a food processor until a smooth dough forms

Step 3:

Place small balls of dough (1/4 tsp) onto a parchment lined cookie sheet and slightly flatten (if you have a small mold like us, fill it up)

Step 4:

Bake in preheated oven for approximately 15 minutes.

Step 5:

Reward your fur baby with a homemade cat treat!

These cat treats should be stored in an airtight container for no more than 5 days.

Optionally, break it into small batches and freeze them!

Give it a try and let us know how they turn out! Do you have a favorite homemade cat treat recipe to share?

Read More Cat Care Guides

• FAQ: How Often Should You Take Your Cat to The Vet?
• Why Do Cats Bite and Then Lick You?
• 7 Tips for Taking Care of a Fluffy Long-Haired Cat
• Should I Brush My Cat or Do They Clean Themselves?
• DIY Cat Bed Ideas to Make a Cozy Place for Your Fur Baby

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

This harsh reality is why it’s extremely important to ensure your fur baby is eating regularly.

While Hepatic Lipidosis (more commonly known as fatty liver disease) has been seen in some toy breed pups, it tends to be more unique to cats.

You’re probably wondering, what is fatty liver disease? When your kitty begins a period of anorexia/fasting, the body begins moving stored fat to the liver in order to process it for energy.

The fat deposits begin building up in the liver interfering with its normal function, and when left untreated it ultimately leads to death.

Causes

Essentially anything that causes your kitty to not eat can ultimately lead to fatty liver disease. Obese kitties tend to be at higher risk.

Common causes include the following:

• Pain
• Nausea
• Stress
• Pancreatitis
• Disease (IBD) and other diseases that cause the body to not properly absorb energy from food

Symptoms

Some of the most common systems to look for are as follows:

• Reduced appetite / not eating at all
• Vomiting or drooling, which is often a sign of nausea
• Hiding / disinterest in normal activities
• Lethargy
• Jaundice (yellowing of the white portion of the eyes, ears, gums, or skin)
• Dehydration
• Constipation
• Weight loss / muscle wasting

Diagnosis

Your veterinarian will take into account the medical history you provide and will perform blood tests to look for abnormal values.

An ultrasound will likely be recommended to take a look at the liver, and additional tests may be needed to rule out other diseases.

Treatment

If your kitty reaches the point of diagnosis with fatty liver disease, you can expect your veterinarian to admit your fur baby for around-the-clock care.

Your vet will attempt to treat the underlying cause of not eating, which may include administering anti-nausea meds, appetite stimulants, and antibiotics if an infection is suspected.

Your kitty will also be given IV fluids to address dehydration.

If medications aren’t getting your kitty to eat on his/her own, your vet may recommend a surgical procedure to place a feeding tube.

This tube will allow calories to be provided until your kitty is willing to eat again.

Has your kitty ever gone for an extended period of not eating?

Read More Cat Care Guides

• FAQ: How Often Should You Take Your Cat to The Vet?
• Why Do Cats Bite and Then Lick You?
• 7 Tips for Taking Care of a Fluffy Long-Haired Cat
• Should I Brush My Cat or Do They Clean Themselves?
• DIY Cat Bed Ideas to Make a Cozy Place for Your Fur Baby
• How to Keep Your Cat Still While Trimming Nails
• FAQ: Can CBD Oil Help Calm Cats with Situational Anxiety?
• How to Buy Catnip for Cats
• FAQ: Can You Give Cats Human Grade CBD Oil?
• Common Questions and Clever Ways to use Catnip

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

Sources:

https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/liver-disease-fatty-liver-syndrome-in-cats

https://bestfriends.org/pet-care-resources/liver-disease-cats-signs-treatment-prognosis

https://www.preventivevet.com/cats/hepatic-lipidosis-fatty-liver-disease-in-cats

https://www.pethealthnetwork.com/cat-health/cat-diseases-conditions-a-z/fatty-liver-disease-cats-not-eating-can-quickly-kill

Read through the sections below to find out common mistakes you might be making when you store your fur baby’s food.

Feeding Expired Food

Do you ever look at the expiration date on that big bad of food?

I was always inclined to buy the biggest bag of food possible. It saved me frequent trips to the store and things tend to be cheaper when you buy in bulk.

These are both very valid reasons, but they shouldn’t outweigh the time it takes for you to go through the bag.

If you can’t use the entire bag before the expiration date, opt for a smaller size so it stays fresh.

Throwing Out the Bag

There are several issues here.

1. The bag helps maintain the freshness of the food.
2. It contains the expiration date so you’re not feeding rancid old food, and
3. It contains a barcode that you’ll want to reference in the event of a recall.

If you choose to toss the bag, jot down the last two items so you have them for reference.

Exposing the Food to Air

This goes along with throwing out the bag. Many of us transfer dry food into a reusable container.

While it likely has a lid, you can’t squeeze out the air, which can speed up the decomposition rate and increase the rate of growth of dangerous bacteria.

Your best bet is to keep the food in the original bag so you can squeeze the air out and clip it closed after each feeding.

Really love that container? Stick the full bag inside instead! For canned food leftovers your best bet is to put on a lid that fits well and put it in the fridge right away.

Exposing the Food to Sunlight

Dry food comes in an opaque bag for a reason, it blocks out sunlight.

Just like air, sunlight can speed up the decomposition rate and increase the rate of growth of dangerous bacteria.

If you’re set on using a storage container, choose one that is not clear or keep it in a dark place away from windows.

Tell me, how do you store your dry food? Do you keep track of the expiration date? What about recalls?

Read More Cat Care Guides

• FAQ: How Often Should You Take Your Cat to The Vet?
• Why Do Cats Bite and Then Lick You?
• 7 Tips for Taking Care of a Fluffy Long-Haired Cat
• Should I Brush My Cat or Do They Clean Themselves?
• DIY Cat Bed Ideas to Make a Cozy Place for Your Fur Baby
• Buy Customizable Felt Cat Caves
• How to Keep Your Cat Still While Trimming Nails
• FAQ: Can CBD Oil Help Calm Cats with Situational Anxiety?
• How to Buy Catnip for Cats
• FAQ: Can You Give Cats Human Grade CBD Oil?
• Common Questions and Clever Ways to use Catnip

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

Most kitties and doggies are unlike humans when it comes to their daily diet. They are generally fed the same food for every meal, with the occasional snack or treat.

If a slow transitional process is not followed to change the existing food, digestive upset is likely to follow and that’s not fun for you or your fur baby. Here’s a basic guideline, which I’ve found to help ensure an uneventful transition.

Preparation:

• Ensure you have at least a week’s worth of the current food remaining.
• Purchase a small quantity of the new food in case the transition is unsuccessful.

The Transition:

• Day 1 – Day 4: Provide 3/4 of current food and 1/4 of new food
• Day 5 – Day 7: Provide 1/2 of current food and 1/2 of new food
• Day 8 – Day 10: Provide 1/4 of current food and 3/4 of new food
• Day 11 +: Provide 100% new food

Pretty simple right, but what if it doesn’t go as planned?

If you’re noticing some changes in your fur baby’s potty habits (yes I’m talking about the consistency of their poo), consider the following:

• Did the brand of food change? While pet foods are required to meet minimum health requirements, their contents can vary significantly. Try switching to a product within the same brand and line of food.
• Did the protein source change (chicken vs fish, etc.)? Your fur baby may have a sensitivity to the new source. Try something more similar to what they are currently eating.
• Going from dry to wet or the reverse? Try slowing the progression down as this can be a big adjustment, especially for those with sensitive stomachs!
• No obvious issue? Consider trying another brand of food as there may be an ingredient that just doesn’t agree with your fur baby.

Before changing your fur baby’s diet, it’s best to first consult with your Veterinarian. It’s also a great idea to stay on top of recalls.

You would be surprised at the batches of well-known brand foods that have been found unsafe for consumption.

Have you ever transitioned your fur baby’s diet? Any recommendations? Any horror stories?

Read More Cat Care Guides

• FAQ: How Often Should You Take Your Cat to The Vet?
• Why Do Cats Bite and Then Lick You?
• 7 Tips for Taking Care of a Fluffy Long-Haired Cat
• Should I Brush My Cat or Do They Clean Themselves?
• DIY Cat Bed Ideas to Make a Cozy Place for Your Fur Baby

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

The prescription diabetic wet food was a bust, Moosie hated it. Thankfully there were a ton of resources available to help me compare the contents of OTC canned food.

My vet essentially said any wet food will be an improvement over dry food because of the carbohydrate content.

I began learning about brands I never knew existed and quickly narrowed down my preferred list to high-quality protein options with very low carbs. I reviewed the options with my vet and found a local specialty pet food store that carried the brands.

Winner winner chicken dinner

After getting over the shock of the price per can and the fact that we just spent hundreds of dollars on insulin supplies and vet visits, I knew I was going to have to convince my husband the cheaper brands of wet food weren’t going to cut it.

I was certain if I got the best food we could afford, I could get Moosie off the insulin. My husband wasn’t fully convinced. We were able to come to an agreement… we would try the expensive food for a few months and if his glucose didn’t improve we would switch to a less expensive brand of wet food.

So I took a deep breath, drove to the store, and purchased several options. As they say, winner winner chicken dinner, I found a high-quality chicken-based wet food that my boy loved!

Over the course of a week, we slowly transitioned Moosie from his weight management dry food to a full diet of almost 65% protein wet food. He was in his glory and I was too! This wasn’t going to be so bad. We also incorporated mandatory playtime every day.

I bought a baby scale and we began doing weigh-ins once a week and regularly checked with the vet to adjust his food intake along with his insulin dosage. This was a stressful time.

As Moo lost weight his glucose level also began to drop so it was extremely important to test his levels before injecting to avoid a hypoglycemic event that could cause seizures and even death. It was a balancing act, but my vet was there to support me and I couldn’t be more thankful.

Watch out diabetes, Moo is gonna beat you!

Over many many weeks, Moo was able to safely cut his weight from 20 lbs to a very healthy 14 lbs. I didn’t realize he had slowed down so much until I saw him in his new slender body running around like a nut! He was like a kitten again!

The best part of the diet change… he was able to stop the insulin. Here I thought this was going to be needed the rest of his life, but a simple diet change changed everything.

My Moo beat diabetes! Hmm… now what to do with the girls who were still on dry food?

Read More Cat Care Guides

• FAQ: How Often Should You Take Your Cat to The Vet?
• Why Do Cats Bite and Then Lick You?
• 7 Tips for Taking Care of a Fluffy Long-Haired Cat
• Should I Brush My Cat or Do They Clean Themselves?
• DIY Cat Bed Ideas to Make a Cozy Place for Your Fur Baby
• Buy Customizable Felt Cat Caves

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!

Growing up we always had a family kitty and that kitty was always fed dry food with the special occasion treat of wet food.

We loved our kitties and I always felt like my Mom had their best in mind. I guess when that’s the norm you don’t think much of it. I continued this routine when I became an adult and rescued my own kitties.

My journey as a cat mom

All 4 ate dry food and received special wet food treats on their birthdays. I chose more expensive dry food thinking I was doing even better for them.

Sure my vet recommended wet food diets along the way, but I always thought back to my 18-year-old childhood kitty who lived a long healthy life on non-specialty dry food.

None of my childhood kitties ever overate and they were never overweight. They lived long healthy lives, so I thought, why change what works?

Even as my oldest fur baby Moosie started to gain weight, I always said, “more to love.” I didn’t think I was hurting him. In fact, I thought he was happy being chunky and being able to eat as much as he wanted.

His regular vet visits yielded clean bloodwork and only an occasional stress-related Urinary Tract Infection (UTI) when we would move homes.

After a few years, I did watch his portion amount and switched him to weight management food, but he stayed pudgy.

A painful realization

It wasn’t until many years later when my Moosie developed Type 2 Diabetes that I knew a serious change was needed.

I had to prick my poor little man’s ear daily to check his glucose level and give him an insulin injection twice a day to control his blood sugar.

Not even considering the hundreds of dollars this was costing, I felt sick. I allowed this to happen. How could I confuse loving my sweet cow with allowing him to overeat???

I learned everything I possibly could from my vet (and the web) about diabetes and quickly realized dry food and inactivity were our main problems.

We immediately started Moosie on the diabetic wet food prescription the vet recommended.

I needed to help my boy safely lose weight and prevent the same problem from happening to my other 3 fur babies.

This was really a wake-up call. Drastic changes were on the horizon. More to come… in the meantime check out our current giveaway.

Read More Cat Care Guides

• FAQ: How Often Should You Take Your Cat to The Vet?
• Why Do Cats Bite and Then Lick You?
• 7 Tips for Taking Care of a Fluffy Long-Haired Cat
• Should I Brush My Cat or Do They Clean Themselves?
• DIY Cat Bed Ideas to Make a Cozy Place for Your Fur Baby

One more thing, if you are feeling like getting a little special something for your fur baby that is unique, made right here in the USA, 100% pup and cat safe, USDA certified organic and brought to you by a US company, check out Toe Beans online pet supplies store!