The same thing can apply to our household pets. As much as they're members of our families – and as much as we as humans have bred them to be more adapted to household living rather than running wild – they still have mental and physical needs.

It's our duty as pet parents to provide for those needs. The trouble is, modern society forces most of us to work 9-5s, spending a good portion of our waking hours away from the home and away from our canine companions.

That's where enrichment comes in. What can we do to provide enrichment for our pups, even when we're not around? Let's talk about it.

All About Enrichment for Dogs

Before I get into toy recommendations, I wanted to talk a little about what enrichment is in the context of dogs.

What is enrichment, specifically?

Any animal has needs. These needs come in different categories: physical, mental, and emotional.

When you examine each of these categories, you can further break them down into a bunch of different kinds of needs.

• Health needs, like disease prevention, parasite treatment, and pain management.

• Hygiene needs, like ear cleaning, tooth cleaning, and fur brushing.

• Dietary needs, including both regular food and treats.

• Exercise needs, usually focused on meeting physical fitness goals.

• Sensory needs, including stimulation for all five senses, as well as preventing undue stimulation.

• Safety needs, including environmental safety.

• Security needs, including both physical and mental security.

• Social needs, like being able to play with people or other dogs.

• Behavioral needs, which are often breed-specific, like herding or foraging behaviors.

• Mental needs, like mental stimulation, tricks, and puzzles.

Technically speaking, meeting all of these different kinds of needs is enrichment. However, these days, when you talk about enrichment, you're mostly talking about the "more than bare minimum" activities: letting your greyhounds run, letting your hunting dogs forage, and the like.

Think of it like cabin fever. Being cooped up in a small space like a home or apartment with nothing much to do will leave you bored and can lead to anxiety, neurotic behaviors, and more. It goes just as much for people as it does for dogs.

Why do dogs need enrichment toys?

Enrichment is critical to keep your pups happy and healthy. Enrichment toys are a way to help do that, either because you don't have a good way to allow a behavior and need to simulate it or because you aren't around enough to provide that enrichment yourself.

It's a sort of self-serve enrichment option, basically.

There are all manner of benefits to enrichment, but they all basically come back to one thing: keeping your dog healthy. Dogs that lack enrichment can develop behavioral issues like anxiety, destructive tendencies, neuroticism, and other issues.

Enrichment can also help extend the life of a dog. Bored and anxious dogs end up stressed out, and stress causes all sorts of problems and can make other issues – like diseases – worse.

Types of Enrichment Toys to Consider

I'm not going to give you specific toy recommendations because the market is huge. Instead, I'm going to talk about specific kinds of toys and leave it to you to decide what specific toys within that category you want to get.

Lick and Chew Toys

First up are some of the most common kinds of enrichment toys, which are toys meant to be licked at and chewed.

Often, these hide a treat inside, like a dab of (xylitol-free) peanut butter, which your dog can spend time getting at. The chewing helps keep their teeth clean, the licking gives them a sensory experience, and the toy can be a source of excitement when you bring it out and give it to them.

Chew toys need to be resilient, but even the most resilient toy can eventually start to break apart under continual chewing, so make sure to inspect it each time you use it and replace it if it starts to break up so your dog doesn't eat or choke on something they shouldn't.

Snuffle Mats

Snuffle mats are sort of like very plush rugs. They're meant to mimic the experience of rooting around in a fairly deep lawn, looking for anything interesting hidden in the grass.

Many different dog breeds love this kind of foraging behavior, and a snuffle mat helps you encourage it. Hide a couple of treats in the mat and let your pooch root around in it, looking for the nugget of tasty reward.

Snuffle mats need to be cleaned and, often, replaced as they start to fall apart. Fortunately, they're relatively cheap and easy to find, so you don't need to worry about their longevity too much. Just make sure they're made of a pet-safe material.

Lick Mats

Lick mats are a sort of cross between snuffle mats and lick toys. They're textured mats that you smear something like wet food or peanut butter in and let your dog go wild on trying to lick it all out.

It takes time because of the texture hiding the goodies in the nooks and crevices, but it's not quite the same kind of behavior as snuffle mats.

As an added bonus, these tend to be more easily cleanable and more durable. On the other hand, if you're not proactive with cleaning them, they can get really smelly really fast.

Puzzle Toys

Puzzle toys are usually made of fairly durable plastic with little compartments you can use to hide kibble or treats.

Your dog knows the treats are there – they can smell it – but they need to figure out how to get past the doors or mechanisms hiding them. It's sort of like a puzzle box for your canine child to figure out.

Simple puzzle toys are just sliding covers over compartments. More complex puzzle toys can be interlocking mechanisms that need to be moved in a certain order to access later treats.

There are hundreds, if not thousands, of different designs, so you may need to go through a few before you find one that is complex enough to keep your dog entertained but not so complex that it leaves them frustrated.

Hide and Seek Toys

Hide-and-seek toys can honestly be just about anything you designate as a dog toy. Many people do things like take a dog's plushie and hide it under a pile of pillows or blankets or just hide it somewhere in the house and then ask their dog to go find it.

Dedicated hide-and-seek toys are a combination of toy and hide. For example, a big fake eggshell with a plushie chick inside. You place the egg somewhere and have your dog go find the chick. It's the same concept, just without having to risk sacrificing pillows or blankets for the cause.

These are excellent toys for dogs that love to go seek out something, especially those who are bred to be hunting dogs or have a strong drive to dig. Uncovering a hidden treasure is a pleasure they love.

Scent Toys

Scent toys are somewhat similar to hide-and-seek toys, but they work primarily on specific scents to help your pooch find them.

Usually, they come with some kind of little scent spray or scent card that provides a unique scent to track, which you hide for your dog to locate when you call for it.

Agility Toys

Some dogs can't get enough of running around and jumping, and if they could, they would have you play fetch with them for 18 hours a day.

Agility toys and courses are a good way to help stimulate this drive while also adding an intellectual element to it so it can tire them out and leave them more satisfied.

I've written about setting up basic dog agility courses before, including what kind of agility elements work well and how you can lay out courses to get started. The only caveat is that you need the space to do it, but if you can get it rolling, it's a wonderful option.

Toys for You Too

There's also a category of enrichment toys that you have to take part in as well. Agility toys fall into this category, but there are also simple versions like durable balls for fetch, knotted ropes for tug-of-war, and other simple activity toys that work great, too.

On top of this, one of the best forms of enrichment is training. Teaching your dog new tricks and variations on older tricks helps to engage their brains. When those brains get working, you have a very satisfied dog at the end of it.

How to Pick a Good Enrichment Toy

Let's finish things off by talking about how to pick the right enrichment toys for your dog.

First of all, you'll never be able to just buy one or two toys and call it good. Dogs will get bored of the same toys over and over all the time, so you'll want to rotate the selection in and out.

You can do this when they start losing interest, on a set schedule, or even seasonally; it all depends on your dog and your selection of toys.

Secondly, you need to pick toys that address the specific needs of your dog. Different dogs of different breeds will have different proclivities.

Some won't take well to agility. Some prefer the more cognitive puzzles rather than physical activities. Some have a huge drive to hide and seek and aren't going to be interested in the more straightforward tug-of-war and other activities.

This will all change over time, too. It can depend on the breed of your dog, but also their age, their personality, and even their experience. Puzzles, in particular, tend to escalate as your pooch gets used to the simpler options and wants something more complex.

When it comes to selecting the toys specifically, there's a lot to consider.

• Make sure the toys are made of durable and non-toxic, non-dangerous materials. Expect your dog to be licking, chewing, and otherwise tearing at the toys. If it has something like a woven fabric or a filling, you need to make sure that if your dog swallows some, it won't hurt them. Long strings are a common failure point here and can cause intestinal blockages.

• Size them appropriately. Getting a toy that's too large for a small dog can be frustrating for them to use. Getting a toy that's too small for a large dog can also be frustrating in different ways, plus it can be a choking hazard.

• Don't overlap the same enrichment too much. Even if your dog is primarily food-motivated, using only food-based enrichment can get stale over time.

With so many options available, it's hard to pick anything to be the best, so expect to experiment until you find what your dog enjoys the most.

Dog Enrichment Toy FAQ

Let's answer a few questions you might have before I let you go.

I have two dogs that play with each other: do I still need enrichment toys?

Yes! If your dogs have to rely on one another for enrichment, things go wrong when one is ill or tired, and there's only so much of the right kinds of enrichment involved.

You still need to meet other needs beyond the social.

How much do enrichment toys cost?

It all depends on the kind of toy and the brand, but most enrichment toys will cost somewhere between $10 and $40.

If you're paying much more than that, ask yourself what you're getting for the money; similarly, if it's much less, wonder what they're cutting for the savings.

What if my dog isn't very food-motivated?

There are all sorts of enrichment toys that don't need food to be successful. Scent toys, hide-and-seek toys, and agility toys all fall into this group.

Every dog will have something they love; you just need to find it!

So, what are your favorite enrichment toys for your dogs? Let me know in the comments!

In the past, I wrote about excessive licking in dogs – what causes it, why they do it, what it means, and why it can be a problem. For the part, that post was focused on licking other things, like the floors, the walls, or you. I did briefly mention the side effects of licking at themselves too much, but it wasn't the focus of the post.

Today, I wanted to talk a little more about self-licking. Sometimes, dogs end up seemingly fixated on licking themselves, particularly their paws. This can cause a bunch of issues, but the most common are "lick granulomas", which is just a fancy name for an open sore caused by excessive licking. It can also cause infections in cuts and scrapes they get naturally, and irritate other problems, making it take longer to heal.

While a little licking and chewing at their feet can be grooming, excessive licking can cause all sorts of issues. Obviously, if it's causing problems, you want it to stop. The question is, how? I'll get to that, but there's some ground to cover first.

Why Dogs are Licking Their Paws

To solve a problem, you first need to know what is causing the problem. What causes a dog to lick their paws excessively?

Grooming

The first option is grooming, and it's probably the least likely cause on this list, just because it generally won't be excessive. Grooming is just how they clean their feet, getting bits of dirt off of their toes and working out sand from in between them.

Excessive grooming can happen, but it's generally caused by something else, like some of the other options we'll get to later.

Injuries

Probably the most common cause of excessive foot licking, by far, is injuries. If they stepped on excessively hot pavement and burned a paw pad, if they stepped on a thorny plant and got a sticker in their paw, if they cut their paw on something rough or sharp outside, if they got stung or bit by an insect, it doesn't really matter.

What matters is that their foot hurts or is irritated, and they don't have very many ways to deal with that. The best option their furry little minds can think of is to soothe it with licking, so lick they do.

The problem, of course, is that licking isn't actually going to solve any of those issues. Worse, it's just as likely to keep irritating them, and their dirty little mouths can even cause an infection.

Injuries can range from small irritations that will heal in a day or two to serious problems that need a vet trip. It depends on the scope of the injury and the likelihood of infection, so make sure to check their paws!

Dermatitis

Dermatitis is the fancy medical word for skin irritation and inflammation. If you ever get a rash from poison ivy or an allergy, that's dermatitis. Dogs can get dermatitis from bacterial issues, from allergic reactions, and even from food sensitivities.

They can also develop it because of chemicals on the ground they walk on – it can be especially common in winter due to road treatments and other chemicals, or when lawn treatments or pesticides are used – and can even be caused by plants they walk on.

Fortunately, while this can be annoying to diagnose, it's relatively easy to treat. The trick is figuring out what is causing it specifically and avoiding letting your fur baby walk on whatever it is.

Parasites

Another semi-common cause is parasites. In particular, fleas and mange mites can cause your fur baby to be very itchy, especially around the paws.

Obviously, parasites are a known and solvable issue, so if they're what's causing excessive licking, it's a quick treatment away from relief.

Generalized Pain

One of the more difficult to address causes of excessive licking is very similar to the first: pain, and an attempt to soothe that pain. The trouble is, what happens if the pain is internal? Something like a fractured or broken toe would be obvious and solvable, but something like arthritis or a slowly growing tumor might not be obvious without testing.

This cause generally requires diagnosis and treatment from a vet, so if you've ruled out all of the easier causes, you will have to bring them in.

Behavioral Issues

This is one of the major elements I focused on in the previous post I linked up at the start. Behavioral issues, ranging from compulsive behaviors to boredom or anxiety, can cause your pup to lick at themselves just out of a need for stimulation.

Sometimes, this might be treatable with medications, while other times, it might mean you need to give them something to redirect their behavior or keep them entertained. It depends on what kind of behavioral issue is cropping up, really.

Other Health Problems

Sometimes, if your pooch has another health issue, they might be sore or stressed or irritated in ways they don't know how to express, so they lick to try to soothe themselves. Things like yeast infections, bacterial infections, and other illnesses can all cause this behavior.

Generally speaking, you'll notice other behavioral issues as well if this is the case, like lethargy, a lack of appetite, odd-colored stool, and so on. As you might expect, it's time to talk to a vet if your doggo is sick.

How to Get Your Dog to Stop Excessively Licking Their Paws

Now that you have some idea of why your pup is licking at their paws constantly, how do you solve the problem?

Step 1: Diagnose the Cause

The first thing you need to do is figure out which of the causes above is the one that's occurring.

Generally speaking, the first step is to look at their paws and see if there are signs of injury or irritation. If it's a surface-level injury or signs of topical irritation, it's easier to solve than if it's arthritis, a behavioral issue, or something more internal.

If you can't figure out what the cause is, it might be time to talk to your vet. As long as they aren't licking themselves raw and bloody, it probably isn't emergency vet material, but a regular vet visit isn't a bad idea.

Step 2: Treat the Cause

Once you have identified the cause, treat it if you can.

• If it's an injury and it's minor, see if it needs antiseptic or just cleaning and bandaging.

• If it's an injury and more major, have the vet handle it as necessary.

• If it's an infection, medication may be provided to deal with it.

• If it's inflammation or irritation, soothing creams and potentially steroids can be used.

• If it's pain or behavioral-related, talk to your vet about what may be necessary.

• If it's parasites, antiparasitic medications are easily accessible.

• If it's boredom, play with them more or give them an outlet when you're not available.

All but the most serious causes can be handled either at home, with over-the-counter treatments, or with a phone or video call with a vet to diagnose and prescribe something. The most serious issues need a vet examination and potentially other tests, like blood tests, to figure it out.

In rare cases, other kinds of treatments may be necessary. For example, if they end up having a cyst or small tumor, it may need surgery to remove.

Sometimes, irritated skin won't heal on its own, and cryotherapy may be necessary to remove it and start from a fresh wound for healing. And, of course, sometimes all you need is an anti-itch cream.

Step 3: Prevent the Licking

While you're waiting for a treatment to work, you'll want to do what you can to prevent your pup from continuing to lick at their paws and making the problem worse.

For temporary, short-term, day or two healing, an e-collar can be perfectly effective. If all you need to do is stop them from licking long enough for some irritation to heal, that's a fine option.

You might also consider something like dog booties or other foot coverings. You want something they can't easily pull off, and that won't hinder their ability to move around.

And, of course, you want something that isn't going to irritate their feet. Fortunately, there are a lot of potential products out there you can use.

In more extreme circumstances, you might need some kind of treatment that makes their feet taste bad to them, so they stop because it's gross. Bitter apple or citrus juices can do the trick, though something too strong might make their life unpleasant even when they aren't licking.

Be careful not to use these kinds of treatments on open wounds or irritated skin, as it can be painful for them.

Step 4: Remove External Factors

External causes of excessive licking generally come down to things like a food allergy, an irritation due to a chemical you're using somewhere inside or outside the home, or just boredom or anxiety.

You can try to remove these as factors.

• Change their food if a food irritation may be causing the problem.

• Remove plants from places they walk – or take them to other places to walk – to avoid irritation.

• Give them more things to do to alleviate their boredom or separation anxiety.

You won't always be able to fully control the environment and keep them from stepping in something that irritates their feet, but as long as you have ways to deal with it before they lick themselves raw, you're ahead of the curve.

Step 5: Paw Cleaning and Paw Balm

Two things worth mentioning as additional options are paw balms and paw cleaning.

Paw cleaning is a simple, but sometimes annoying, habit you'll need to get into. Basically, just keep a bit of water and a towel near the door.

Whenever they go outside, whether you're just letting them run around the yard, or you're taking them for a walk, or they've been out with you shopping or to the vet, make the entryway a checkpoint.

All you need to do is give their paws a quick rinse and wipe down. This helps remove anything, like chemical residues and dirt, that could irritate their paws.

Even if they aren't irritated right away, that irritation can develop later in the day as the residue lingers, and then comes the licking. Dealing with it right away is a great option.

The downside is that it's just One More Thing You Have To Do when you get home with your pup, and it's a hard habit to build and keep. Once you get it going, though, it's not too bad.

The second is a paw balm. There are a variety of kinds of paw balms – we sell three – but they all serve more or less the same purpose.

They help keep your dog's paws supple, soft, and healthy. They're often hydrating and moisturizing to prevent dry and cracked skin.

They can provide a small barrier against chemicals and residues, though hot pavement will still burn. They can even help speed up healing when your pup ends up with an irritation or inflammation.

Once the problem has been solved and the causes have been addressed, you should be good to go. It's fairly rare for excessive licking to be any sort of emergency, and if it is, you'll definitely notice other signs, whether it's bleeding, serious behavior changes, or something worse.

Have you ever experienced a dog that wouldn't stop licking their paws, seemingly no matter what you did? If so, what did the cause turn out to be, and how did you solve it? I've seen all sorts of things, but I'm curious what else may be out there.

Choosing Safer, Healthier Dog Products Starts With Knowing Exactly What's in Them

If you’ve ever lost a dog to illness—or spent nights worrying over what might be hiding in that overseas-made treat—you’re not alone.

Many of us trusted the packaging, only to learn too late that some overseas-made pet products contain cancer-causing chemicals, toxic dyes, and mystery ingredients we can’t even pronounce.

At toe beans, we believe pet parents like us deserve better, much better.

Why "Made in the USA" Isn’t Just a Label at toe beans

Many dog supply brands out there are quick to make the “made in the USA” claim, while failing to disclose that the raw materials in their products actually come from the same mass-production, low-cost labor countries overseas you're trying to avoid.

Oftentimes, such brands will claim "made in the USA with globally sourced ingredients/raw materials" as the country of origin designation for raw materials they don't really want you to know the true origin.

We believe every pet parent has the right to know exactly what went into the products they buy and what country they were produced in. Knowing such information can make the difference between long and short-living dogs as well as the quality of life they live.

That's why, we take a totally different and radical approach. With a few exceptions, all pet supplies on the toe beans catalog are crafted either in our own facility in the USA or by carefully vetted small-batch American artisans we know and trust.

It’s in our DNA to keep the strictest controls and oversight in our supply chains to source only the cleanest raw materials the world has to offer—organic, sustainable, toxin-free, and third-party certified.

Our products are manufactured using raw materials backed by trusted certifications including USDA Organic, USDA Bio-based, FSC^®, GOTS^®, and Oeko-Tex^® to ensure the highest safety standards from end to end. Learn more about toe beans raw materials certifications here.

So whether your pup is stretched out on our orthopedic dog beds, enjoying a handful of our Momma Knows Best Organics^® USDA Certified Organic Dog Treats, or burning off energy with one of our eco-friendly dog toys, you can feel confident you’re giving them the healthiest care possible.

You Shouldn’t Have to Guess What’s in Your Dog’s Products

That’s why we are obsessed with transparency and making dog supplies any pet parent can trust — clean, honest, and radically transparent.

Every product in our catalog comes with a datasheet that we fondly call the product’s anatomy. In it, you can learn what exactly went into your products and where all raw materials come from – from the threads to the main components.

Sometimes we even disclose our raw material suppliers, such as in the case of our leather dog collars, where we clearly tell our customers where exactly our leather comes from.

Lack of transparency is, in fact, the main tool many dog supply resellers out there use to get away with baseless claims such as organic. Here is what we think when it comes down to buying products claiming organic status:

“If it claims organic but it's not third-party certified, don’t let it fool you, it's not bona fide.”

Just some food for thought. Discover what safe, non-toxic, and organic really looks and feels like. Browse our collection of USA-made Organic Dog Products and give your pup the cleanest clean the world has to offer — no compromises.

After all, if we don't, they're either going to seek it out themselves (like a dog drinking from the toilet), or they're going to end up dehydrated, or both.

The trouble is, even when we replace water in their bowls, sometimes our furry friends are surprisingly picky. A lot of cats, for example, simply don't like standing water. They'd much rather drink from a faucet than from a still bowl of water, no matter how fresh it is.

There's a solution to this: automatic pet water fountains. These can be a great idea, but are there any drawbacks? What should you keep in mind, and why should you consider investing in a fountain for your fur babies?

What Are Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

The usual way of keeping your pet hydrated is a bowl that you fill with fresh water, and empty and refill every so often so the water is fresh and cool.

The general advice is to change your pet's water at least once a day, and more often if they drink too much of it, spill it, or if it gets dirty, such as if some stray food is dropped into it, or if dust and pet hair settles in it.

Automatic fountains are essentially water bowls that come with additional features to circulate the water. Some of them are little more than a pump and a cone in the center of the bowl, so water in the bottom is circulated to the top and spills down the side, continually filtering and circulating the water.

Others have small fountain-like streams. Some have added features, like the ability to plumb them into a water line directly so they always have fresh water or a mechanism to cool the water they circulate. There are as many different designs as there are brands selling them.

The goal of an automatic fountain is usually to keep water circulating, usually with a filter to keep particulates, dust, hair, and other debris out of it as much as possible. This makes it a much more pleasant experience for your beloved cat or dog to have a slurp when they're thirsty.

Believe it or not, some pets will avoid water even if it's available and will even potentially dehydrate themselves if that water is not to their liking.

Different individuals have different inclinations, as well. I've seen formerly feral cats happily drink from a muddy puddle, while a picky pup might turn their nose up at water they didn't see poured for them, even if you poured it just moments ago.

Do Cats Like Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

When you think about an automatic pet water fountain, you're probably thinking about cats.

Cats are traditionally the picky bunch, who might turn their nose up at a food if they've had it too often and who might have a strong and vocally expressed preference for a thin drip from the bathroom faucet rather than their water bowl.

Automatic water fountains are so often associated with cats that if you simply Google "automatic pet water fountain," the vast majority of the results are for cats, with a few token results for "cats and dogs" thrown in and very few specifically about dogs.

Of course, cats are picky about everything, so they may or may not like the type of automatic water fountain you get. If they turn their nose up at one, consider trying a different style before writing it off entirely.

Do Dogs Like Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

Most of the time, when you think of a dog having a drink, it's a bowl of water hastily splashed down at a dog park, or a park fountain with a doggy bowl at the bottom, or even a public-use bowl outside a local business (which you might consider passing by, as they can be a vector for disease).

If your canine companion will happily schlop schlop schlop out of any old bowl they find, do you need a fancy, pricey automatic fountain?

The truth is, there are some pretty good reasons to get an automatic fountain for a dog as well. Dogs can be just as picky as cats, sometimes.

They may also simply run out of water faster, and automatic fountains tend to have a larger capacity than a dog bowl, especially the ones that can be plumbed into your water lines. So, keep in mind that the benefits of a pet water fountain aren't just for cats; dogs can love them, too!

What Are the Benefits of Using Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

There are a lot of benefits to having an automatic water fountain for your pets, so let's go through them.

#1: They help guarantee your pet has access to fresh, clean water at all times.

Automatic water fountains typically have a larger capacity than a standard water bowl, both because they're physically larger and because they have internal workings like the pump and hoses that contain even more water.

They're often designed to not run dry in all but the most arid climates, as long as you're around to top them off once a day or so.

If you've ever come home from a long shift at work and had to immediately refill your pet's water bowl because it ran dry while you were out, you know how valuable it could be to have a larger capacity water source available for them.

Some people even resort to leaving a sink running, though, of course, that also racks up your water bills, something none of us want.

#2: They help keep the water your pets are drinking clean.

One of the biggest benefits to an automatic water fountain is not just circulating the water, but filtering it.

Some of them just use simple mesh filters to keep out pet hair and stray kibble, but others have more detailed filters, even up to activated charcoal similar to what you would have in your own Brita or Pur filters.

The longer water stays stagnant, the grosser it can get. Everything from pet dander and dirt from paws to microorganisms and parasites can start to make a home in a pet's water bowl.

While you're unlikely to have serious issues if you're changing the water every day, it's still nicer for you and your pets to have filtered water going for them, right?

Some of our pets are also much more sensitive to the quality of their water than others. You might think the water is fine, but if there's enough dirt, or oil, or other contaminants in the water that your pet can smell it, they might not want to drink – and will end up dehydrated because of it.

#3: They can be more enticing to your pets.

One of the natural instincts that both cats and dogs possess is an instinct to pursue fresh water. Most animals have an inherent awareness that stagnant water means water that might be dirty, full of germs or parasites, or that will otherwise make them sick when they drink it.

Some, especially the stray and feral animals we rescue, learn this the hard way. Others just have a nudge in the back of their fuzzy little brains that says the sound of running water is more enticing than a stagnant pool.

The noise of running water is, in fact, often the point. The gentle burble of a water fountain can be very compelling and can help ensure that your cats or dogs (or both!) are going to drink more water throughout the day, ensuring they stay hydrated.

This can be especially valuable if you have a pet with kidney issues, where hydration is even more important.

#4: They can help keep the water a cooler temperature.

Think about beverages you enjoy. What is more satisfying: a hot cup of coffee or a room-temperature cup of coffee? Which would you rather drink on a hot day: water that has been sitting out in the sun and is a balmy 75 degrees or water that is a crisp, cool 40?

A pet water fountain is unlikely to be keeping water at refrigerator temperature, but the circulation helps use evaporative cooling, plus passive systems like a simple metal construction to disperse heat, and keep the water cooler.

Cooler water, even by just a few degrees, is more refreshing than water that is at room temperature. This, too, helps entice your pets to drink and stay hydrated.

Are There Drawbacks to Using Automatic Pet Water Fountains?

If all of that sounds great, should you rush out to buy an automatic water fountain for your cats, dogs, and anyone else in the household? Maybe, but keep in mind that there are some drawbacks to using these automated fountains.

#1: They can be fairly expensive.

A simple cat or dog bowl might not cost more than $10 at your local pet supply store. Meanwhile, automatic fountains can range anywhere from $25 for a cheap, imported, maybe-not-so-high-quality device, all the way up to $90, $100, or even more for high-quality fountains. Some of the most advanced, easily-maintainable, app-controlled fountains can be well over $100.

Add to this the fact that these are moving devices, with electronics and pumps and hoses and multiple points of failure, and you might end up buying a new one every few years, as opposed to a bowl, which you probably won't need to replace for the lifetime of your pet. Then again, as pet parents, we know our little fuzz balls can be expensive, so it's par for the course.

#2: They need regular cleaning.

There's no way to run a water fountain without it needing cleaning sooner or later. The particulate filters need cleaning when dirt and hair end up in the water and get caught in them.

Charcoal and other filters need replacing on a schedule, when they get gummed up enough that they inhibit the flow of water. Even hoses might need replacing if enough time passes that they get clogged up or turn brittle and risk breaking and making a mess.

This goes doubly depending on the kind of water you're using for your pet's fountain. Most tap water, for example, has a fairly high mineral content, and those minerals build up and can clog up the fountain or stain it over time. The longer you go without cleaning off mineralization, the harder it is to do so.

Note: it may be tempting to use distilled water to avoid this issue. Unfortunately, while we tend to think of water as "empty," it's usually not.

Sources of bottled water, spring water, or even mineral water contain just that: minerals, some of which your pets need to stay healthy. Long-term distilled water consumption runs the risk of, in particular, magnesium deficiency.

There's also a small but non-zero risk of a poorly made or damaged water fountain shorting out and zapping your pet. Generally speaking, a short like that will trip a breaker (or a fuse in the device) before it becomes a hazard, but the cheapest of the cheap devices might not. That's why I always recommend looking for quality, not just the cheapest option on the shelves.

#3: They can be noisy, which might be irritating to you.

This is a more minor concern, but depending on the kind of fountain you get, it might have a fairly noisy pump.

The ideal of a fountain is that the noise you hear is the trickling sound of water, not the grinding of an electric motor, but the cheaper the fountain, the less likely it is to be quiet about its job.

Some people can easily tune out this noise, while others are deeply annoyed by it. Then again, some people – especially if you've ever lived through a burst pipe or other water issue – might find the sound of running water to be somewhat triggering. It's a balancing act.

A particularly noisy pet water fountain also runs the risk of being annoying to your pet, which is a bigger issue. If the noise of a pump drives them away, it's not a good investment.

Should You Get an Automatic Pet Water Fountain?

Truthfully? The answer is probably yes. The benefits are high enough, and the drawbacks are manageable enough that the balance is worth it.

Just make sure to use the right kind of water, keep the device well-maintained, and don't get one that is overly cheap or unnecessarily complex. I don't know why anyone would need an automatic fountain controlled by an app, do you?

Once your pets enjoy some fresh burbling water, they won't want to go back, and neither will you.

Do you have any questions about anything I discussed in this article? If so, I'm always more than happy to help however I can, so leave your questions in the comments section down below!

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The things we eat as people aren't always the things our canine companions can eat. Just like how there are plenty of foods that are toxic to cats, there are human foods our dogs shouldn't eat either. What should you keep off the menu to avoid giving your pooch a hard time?

Can Dogs Eat Fruit?

First, a simple question: can dogs eat fruit at all? Fortunately, the answer is yes. While dogs aren't obligate carnivores like cats, they do have some dietary restrictions, largely related to certain chemicals that can give them a bad time.

Dogs can enjoy fruits as treats. Fruits like apples, blueberries, pears, strawberries, watermelon, mango, and others are all good options. My guide (linked right there) can give you some great ideas on which fruits to use, and how to use them.

What Makes a Fruit Bad for Your Dog?

Some fruits are going to be bad for your dog, but why are they bad? Are they full of chemicals that are fine for humans but toxic to dogs? Are they going to trigger an allergic reaction?

Generally, there are three main reasons that can disqualify a fruit from being part of your dog's diet.

The first reason is sugar. A lot of fruits are considered fairly healthy, but they're full of natural sugars. Natural fructose is better for you (and your dog) than artificial sugars, and it's way better than chemical sweeteners like xylitol, which can be toxic to your dog. But, it's still a lot of sugar, which can cause problems with obesity and diabetes, especially in older dogs.

The second reason is something that could choke your dog. Fruits that have large seeds or pits can be obstructions and, depending on the size of your dog, can block their airway or their bowels. Both of these can be very dangerous and painful to your pup.

On that note, it's a good idea for any canine caregiver to know how to help a choking dog because time is of the essence. Check out this guide to the canine Heimlich Maneuver to learn more.

Some of these fruits are fine if you prepare them right, while others might have other reasons to avoid them as well. I'll get to that in the actual list.

The third reason is toxicity. Some fruits do, in fact, have toxic compounds in them. At best, these can cause bowel upset or vomiting. At worst, they can become a life-threatening medical issue. It's better to avoid them entirely.

Now, let's go through the list.

Fruits a Dog Shouldn't Have Because of Toxic Ingredients

First, let's talk about the fruits that your dog absolutely shouldn't have. Any fruit with toxic compounds in it should be avoided entirely.

Avocados

Avocados are often thought of as vegetables, but they're actually fruits. They also fit both the toxicity and the obstruction points because the pit of the avocado is tough and can be a choking hazard.

The most important part, though, is that avocado skins, pits, and leaves all contain a compound called persin. While persin generally won't kill a dog unless it's very small and they eat a lot of it, it's going to cause gastrointestinal distress, including vomiting and diarrhea. That, combined with the high-fat flesh of the avocado, makes for a bad time for everyone.

Persin can also cause pancreatitis if consumed in sufficient amounts or over a long term.

Note that you can still use products like dog fur conditioners that include avocado oil; these ingredients have been refined to remove anything toxic. Since avocado oil is a great way to add luster and shine to your dog's coat, many people still use the fruit, even if it's not for eating.

Cherries

Cherries are a fruit that really hits all three of the reasons why a dog shouldn't have them.

They're pretty sweet and sugary, especially sweet cherries (tart cherries are a little less so, though they do still have a lot of sugar in them.)

They have pits. Those pits aren't going to bother a larger breed, but small dogs might choke on them.

Most importantly, though, they contain cyanide in the pits.

If you carefully pit cherries and give them to your dog in moderation, it's probably fine that they have one or two here or there. If you have a cherry tree, though, make sure your dog can't go to town on fallen fruit. The same goes if you eat cherries; make sure your pup can't fish the pits out of the trash.

It's also a good idea to learn the signs of cyanide poisoning. Dilated pupils, difficulty breathing, and red gums can all be signs.

Grapes

One of the worst fruits for dogs, grapes of all sorts are bad for our canine friends. Grapes (and raisins) are so toxic to dogs that they can cause sudden kidney failure in surprisingly small quantities. Just keep them away from your dog at all costs.

This is a good place to discuss the symptoms of poisoning in dogs. If you're worried that your dog might be poisoned or ate something they shouldn't that could hurt them, look for symptoms like:

• Bowel issues, including constipation and diarrhea.

• Lethargy and delayed responses.

• Standing with their back hunched.

• Twitching or seizures.

• Vomiting, drooling, or foaming at the mouth.

These symptoms indicate an emergency, and you should rush your pup to the emergency vet ASAP to get treatment before their organs shut down. Your vet will administer treatment like activated charcoal, a medication to induce vomiting, and scans or even surgery to address what's wrong. Obviously, it's better to keep the grapes (and other toxic fruits) out of reach.

Green Tomatoes

Tomatoes are part of the same overall plant family as nightshade, so it's not really a surprise that it can be toxic to some animals.

Fully ripe tomatoes are fine for dogs, but under-ripe or green tomatoes, as well as the green parts of the plant, all contain a chemical called solanine. That chemical is only mildly toxic, so your dog would probably have to eat a whole tomato plant or more to get really sick over it, but it's still better to avoid it, wouldn't you say?

Plums

Plums are another fruit where the pit contains cyanide and can be a choking hazard. Basically, any stone fruit is going to have these issues since they're all similar.

The flesh is fine, but the pits are very dangerous, so you have to be careful with how you dispose of them.

Raspberries

Raspberries are right on the fence. They're a healthy fruit and they're undeniably delicious, but they do contain a very small amount of xylitol.

One or two isn't going to be enough to hurt a dog unless they're very, very small or are very sensitive, but a whole package of raspberries – or a dog left to their own devices next to berry bushes – can cause problems quite quickly.

Fruits a Dog Shouldn't Have Because of Obstructive Elements

The second group is fruits that should either be avoided or be prepared properly if you want to give them to your dog. That's because they contain something, like a pit, a core, or seeds, that can block airways or obstruct bowels if your dog swallows them. Avocados, already listed above, fall into this group because of the pit as well.

Peaches

Peaches are a good example of a fruit that can be fine in moderation for dogs, but can also be very high in sugar, and the pit is dangerous.

Not only is the pit capable of blocking an airway, but it also contains a chemical called amygdalin, which, when digested, creates cyanide. So, why didn't I list it in the toxic section? The edible part of the fruit is fine.

Oranges

Oranges aren't bad for your dog, but vets generally recommend leaving off the skin and removing the seeds when possible. By the time you're done doing that, it's practically not worth it for a treat anymore, right?

That said, some dogs don't like citrus at all because the citrus oils are very strongly scented, and your pup's sensitive nose might be irritated at having them close. If you ever peel an orange and notice your pup avoids you, that's probably why.

Other citrus all fall into this category as well. Lemons, limes, grapefruits, pomelos, mandarins, citrons, tangerines… the list goes on. Relatedly, did you know that all citrus we enjoy today are cross-breeds and hybrids between three original citrus plants? Mandarins, Pomelos, and Citrons are the three originals; everything else is some manner of derived hybrid between them.

Persimmons

Persimmons are a less common fruit, but the seeds they contain can be obstructive to your dog's bowels. They aren't super toxic, which is why they aren't listed in the toxic list, though they do contain compounds that can cause digestive upset.

Under-ripe persimmons are also very astringent and can also cause digestive upset. The flesh of the ripe fruit is fine in moderation, though.

Fruits a Dog Shouldn't Have Because of Excessive Sugar

Finally, let's talk about some fruits you should consider avoiding. These aren't necessarily dangerous for your dog, but they are high in sugar. That means if they have diabetes, or you're worried about obesity or them developing diabetes down the line, it's better to avoid them. They can be given in moderation, though; a single bite here and there, as a high-value treat, can be just fine.

Bananas

Bananas are emblematic of this entire category. They're very sweet and have a ton of sugar in them when they're ripe, but they also have a lot of healthy minerals and vitamins that your dog will enjoy.

A slice of banana tossed to your pup with you eating one yourself is fine, but they shouldn't be part of their primary diet.

Canned Fruits

I'm not specifying one particular fruit here. Many canned fruits are canned with added sugar or even syrup, and that's a huge hit of sugar your dog doesn't need. Obviously, if the canned fruit is one with another issue, you have twice the reason to avoid it.

Note that even fruits canned in water or juice still tend to have added sugar to them. Syrup is worse, but juice isn't always better.

Dangerous Fruits for Dogs FAQ

As usual, let's wrap things up with a few common questions.

What should I do if my dog ate a bad fruit?

This depends on the fruit. Grapes? Take them to the vet ASAP. Other fruits? Keep an eye on them. If they exhibit the symptoms of poisoning, take them to the vet. Otherwise, just keep an eye out for obstructions and be prepared for a messy bathroom break.

Fruits that are high in sugar are only bad for weight and diabetes reasons, so if your dog is otherwise healthy, a bit of over-indulgence won't hurt them. Just don't make it a regular thing.

How can I get rid of pits and seeds?

Many people recommend a dog-proof trash can for things you really don't want your dog to get into. I've known some very clever dogs that find their way into these, though, so make sure whatever you get can resist the cleverest pupper around.

Alternatively, make sure to store the waste out of their reach until you can get rid of it.

What is the worst fruit for dogs?

Undoubtedly, grapes. It's actually kind of crazy that we don't even know which compounds in grapes are the toxic ones, but we know that all kinds of grapes, even in small amounts, can lead to very sudden kidney failure and even death.

If your dog even eats just one grape, you should be extremely vigilant for signs of poisoning and call your vet ASAP.

As always, if you have any non-medically-related questions, I'm always more than happy to help however I can! Just leave me a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

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Do You Ever Worry About Where and Who Made Your Dog Supplies?

The sad truth is, unless you buy your dog supplies directly from a US-based company that manufactures their products in the USA and that also has strict controls and oversight over their supply chains, odds are your dog supplies have been made overseas with substandard raw materials that could potentially represent a long-term health hazard for your pup.

At toe beans we take pride in being more than just another dog supplies brand. By designing and manufacturing nearly all our products (98%+) in-house and/or in close collaboration with small-batch US artisans, we're able to ensure the highest standards of quality, sustainability, and supply chain controls and oversight.

When you choose toe beans dog and cat supplies, you're not only putting your fur baby's health, happiness, and longevity first, you’re also choosing supply chain transparency, raw material safety, and ethical American manufacturing. You can have the confidence that your dog supplies were made in the USA with certified raw materials that are free from human exploitation and hazardous substances.

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Perhaps the single most routine surgery in the veterinary field is that of the spay/neuter. Most people are aware that these surgeries are done and why, but not necessarily what they do, how, or what needs to be done after the surgery itself. I wanted to take a moment today to talk about it!

What is Involved in a Spay or Neuter Surgery?

Spaying and neutering are surgical procedures, which means they are invasive and require anesthesia, monitoring, and potentially IV fluids and other care.

The surgery is a lot less invasive for male dogs than for females due to the anatomy involved, but either way, it includes an incision in the flesh of the dog's underbelly, ligation of the blood vessels leading to the relevant reproductive organ, and the removal of that organ.

In male dogs, it's the testicles, while in female dogs, it's usually both the ovaries and the uterus, though in rare cases, it can be just the ovaries.

If you're interested in a closer look, this article covers neutering a male dog, and this one covers spaying a female dog. Fair warning: the neutering article includes pictures, so skip it if you're squeamish.

The key point to take away here is that both surgeries involve incisions of the skin and cutting away organs inside.

No matter how well-practiced the vet, these can always be potentially dangerous due to infection, failed ligations, or other problems.

Your job is to keep an eye on your beloved canine companion to make sure nothing goes wrong and that they heal normally.

What Are Common Symptoms After a Spay or Neuter Surgery?

Surgical recovery is a lengthy process, though your dog probably won't show it as much as you expect them to.

In the first 24 hours after the surgery, your pup will be recovering from being under anesthesia. They'll be groggy and nauseous and may have other symptoms, such as:

• Glassy-eyed looks

• Sleepiness

• Wobbly movement

• Excessive vocalization

• Shivering

• Irritability

All of these are normal. They're shaking off medication and dealing with both an unpleasant sensation, a bunch of disorientation, and a general feeling of not being entirely normal.

They don't know what's going on, and they don't have the language to understand if you explain, so they can only do what they feel they can do: whine about it, usually.

Because of their nausea, your dog is probably not going to want to eat very much. One of the main risks here is dehydration, so make sure to encourage your pup to drink. Offer food in small amounts, but be prepared if they can't keep it down.

After the first day or two, your pet will largely recover mentally, but they are still healing from the surgery. This is the most dangerous time for three main concerns.

The first is infection. While many procedures are in place to make sure your pet is as clean and sterile as possible during the surgery, there's always the risk of infection with any surgery, no matter how thorough the procedures. Keeping an eye out for the signs of infection is your most important job.

The second is reopening the incision. A small amount of bleeding on the first day is normal, but after that, it should remain closed, though it can be red and a little swollen.

If your pet does something that reopens the incision, you'll need to talk to your vet to get it closed back up. Fortunately, these aren't big incisions, so it's not a huge emergency if they reopen.

The third is internal bleeding. Part of the surgery is tying off the blood vessels that feed the organs being removed. There's always a risk, however small, of these not remaining properly tied off and causing internal bleeding. This is one of the biggest emergencies that will need immediate attention.

How Long Does Recovery After Spay or Neuter Surgery Take?

In general, dogs take around 10-14 days to fully recover from a spay or neuter surgery. The first day is the worst, and each day after will be better.

Some dogs take a little longer to recover, which can depend on their age, their size, and if there were any complications with the surgery itself or with their recovery process.

Many dogs will feel like they've recovered earlier, but they aren't great at judging the state of their healing internally, so your job is to keep them relatively calm and still so they don't hurt themselves in their excitement to get back to normal.

What Do You Need to Do to Care for Your Dog After a Spay or Neuter Surgery?

Caring for a dog after a spay surgery is fairly simple, but if it's your first time, it can be a little nerve-wracking. Just remember that millions of pet parents do it every year, and most of them don't have issues, so you'll probably be fine, too.

When you first bring your dog home, let them rest in a quiet, safe place. If you have other pets, kids, or anything stressful in your house, find a place your dog can stay away from them and let them recover there.

Check on your dog frequently for the first 24 hours to make sure they're fine. Complications can happen quite quickly, so you want to keep an eye on them or even stay with them while they rest and shake off the anesthesia.

Give them small amounts of food and water later in the evening. Their appetite won't return to normal for probably about two days, but you want to try to keep them hydrated and fed. Just be prepared for the risk of vomit if they can't keep it down.

Encourage frequent movement. Statistics show that if your dog spends most of the first day sleeping or resting, their recovery is probably going to take longer. You want them up and moving, even if it's just a walk across the room.

At the same time, discourage exercise and play. Jumping, running, and excessive playing risk reopening the incision or the ligations and can cause complications.

Keep the surgical site dry. No swimming, no bathing, no playing in the rain or the snow.

Keep checking the incision. A little redness and swelling are normal, but if it bleeds, reopens, leaks a strange fluid, looks bruised, or is otherwise unnatural, contact your vet.

What Symptoms Should You Watch for After a Spay or Neuter Surgery?

You can generally categorize issues post-surgery as normal, needing attention, or emergency. Let's go through each category.

Normal issues after a surgery.

Normal issues are things you may or may not see, but if you do, they aren't something to worry about. If they stick around or get worse, then they escalate into the next tier of severity, and you'll want to talk to your vet about them.

To be clear, you can call your vet about anything you aren't sure about. They're generally pretty happy to help, even if they are overworked – they love your dog almost as much as you do – and they won't be mad about a nervous call. Just don't necessarily rush your pup into the emergency vet for something that isn't a problem.

So what's on the list?

• A small amount of blood or bloody discharge from the incision site on the first day after the surgery. Small things like a minor red stain on their bed where they were lying are pretty normal. If it's bad, there will be more volume, or it won't go away even after days.

• A bit of redness or swelling, or even bruising around the surgical site. An incision is, after all, cutting through the skin. Think of it like when you get a cut yourself; it will be red and irritated because it's damage to the skin.

• Your dog whining and crying about their situation. Some dogs are way more dramatic than others in their discomfort, but most just won't know what's going on. They'll be disoriented, uncomfortable, and probably in a little pain, and they'll be vocal about it.

• Not doing their business on schedule. Potty training is important, so this can feel bad, but anesthesia basically halts the digestive process, and your dog probably won't go back to normal for at least a day.

If any of these happen for a day or two, don't worry, and just keep an eye on it. They should go away on their own.

Issues that need some attention.

Now, let's talk about the issues that will require attention but might not need an emergency trip.

These issues include:

• Significant swelling of the incision. This might be a sign of infection or could require medication to help manage.

• Colored discharge from the incision. This is generally a sign of some kind of infection and will require medication and maybe cleaning.

• Pale gums. This can be a sign of internal bleeding or an infection and is worth getting looked at.

• Long-term lack of appetite. If your dog refuses to eat or drink even after a day or two after the surgery, something might be wrong, and they'll need attention.

• Intermittent vomiting. Same deal here; it means something is wrong but not immediately life-threatening.

If your dog is experiencing any of these, you'll want to call your vet and talk to them about it. They might be able to do a quick video visit and give you a prescription or advice to try to care for the issue, or they might want you to bring your dog in to be looked at. Follow their advice.

Issues for the emergency vet.

Now, let's talk about the true emergencies. If you see any of these, you'll want to bring your pup to the nearest emergency clinic.

These issues might require another surgery to correct or could be a sign of something dangerous occurring:

• Consistent blood from the surgical site. This can indicate a failed ligation that will need to be redone.

• Consistent vomiting that doesn't go away. This can indicate a number of issues that need to be checked out.

• Difficulty breathing. This is another potentially serious complication that needs immediate attention.

• Inability to stand or not waking up. Terrifying!

These are your true emergencies, so get going ASAP if you see them.

Dog Spay Surgery FAQ

Now, let's wrap things up with a couple of other questions you might have.

Do you need to keep the incision clean?

Follow your vet's instructions.

Generally, you only need to wipe off discharge if it happens, but otherwise, it's better to leave it alone.

What kind of cone should you put on your dog?

Cones aren't generally recommended these days; instead, a more flexible e-collar is the way to go.

If your dog doesn't seem interested in licking or scratching at their incision, they don't need a collar or cone. If they can't seem to leave it alone, you need to protect the incision from their picking at it, so use the collar.

What if your dog doesn't tolerate a cone?

There are a few other options. One of the most common is a onesie, which can protect the site of the incision while being harder to work around and more comfortable for your pup.

You can also try something like boxer shorts – the fly is for the tail – though with both options, you still need to remove or alter them for potty time.

When all is said and done, you should be in a good position both to have a safe and healthy dog and to go through the whole process again with another dog in the future.

Remember, there are no stupid questions, and you shouldn't feel bad about being concerned. We all have to learn somewhere!

If you have any non-medically-related questions, I'd be more than happy to help out however I can! Just leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

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Some commercial cat foods are full of filler. Some include sub-par ingredients that might not be bad right now but can be bad in the long term, especially if contaminants build up in your cat's system. Sometimes, they just include allergens, and your cat has a sensitive stomach and can't handle them.

There are plenty of reasons to consider making DIY, homemade cat food. But there's also a lot to consider. Let's talk about it!

Should You Make DIY Cat Food?

The first question that might come to mind is whether or not you should even consider making homemade cat food.

In my opinion, yes! There are a few good reasons to do it.

You know everything that goes into your cat's food when you make it yourself.

This is possibly the biggest reason; you know everything that goes into a recipe you make. With commercial cat foods, you often see ingredients listed that you might not know what they are or you might not like. Things like:

• Poultry by-product meal

• Corn gluten meal

• Soybean meal

• Dried bifidobacterium animalis fermentation product

• Natural flavors

Since the FDA doesn't regulate pet foods as much as it regulates human foods – and we already have a lot of shortcuts and tricky information in our own food – it can be very difficult to read the ingredients on a pet food label and understand what's truly in the food.

To be clear, most of the time, the ingredients are fine for your cat. It might not be the best possible food, but it's not likely to actively hurt them. The trouble is, you can't necessarily tell that, and there seems to be a scandal every year or two about pet food hurting pets.

You can customize their food if they have allergies or sensitive stomachs.

This is a big one. Unlike human food, where allergens need to be disclosed, including if it was produced in a facility that also handles allergens, you don't get that kind of quality assurance with cat foods.

If your cat has an allergy to a given ingredient, it can be hard to tell if a commercial cat food has that ingredient in it. Even if it doesn't, if it's made in the same facility as a food that does, it can end up cross-contaminated, and there's no way you can tell until your fur baby starts showing signs of digestive distress.

When you DIY some homemade cat food, you know everything that goes into it and everything that doesn't.

You can change the recipe when your cat gets tired of it.

Raise your hand if your cat is a picky eater and turns their nose up at food on a regular basis, even food they've enjoyed in the past.

Everyone? Alright, hands down.

Most cats are at least somewhat picky eaters, and even if they aren't actively dismissive of the food you give them, there's a good chance they'll just want to change things up from time to time. When you buy normal cat food in bulk, that's pretty hard; what are you going to do with the extra 20 lbs. of kibble if they won't touch it anymore?

When you make their food, it's easy enough to mix up the main protein or a couple of key ingredients to get something new for them to enjoy. You also don't need to make huge batches and let some of it go bad, and if they decide mid-batch they don't care for it, you can freeze it for later.

You can usually make cat food cheaper than buying their food.

Another benefit to making your own cat food is that it ends up being cheaper at the end of the day. Depending on the kind of food you're buying for your cat, it can cost anywhere from $1.50 to $7 per day. When you make your own, the cost of the ingredients will work out to be less than $1.50 per day, almost no matter what you want to do.

Obviously, this can vary depending on how you source your ingredients. People with local butchers or with lower costs for certain ingredients locally can come out further ahead.

People who have trouble sourcing key ingredients might be more comparable to cheaper commercial cat foods. In those cases, the difference in quality is important enough to balance the scales.

It does take time to make your own cat food, but honestly, less than you might think.

You can also often do it on the side while you're making food for yourself, so you don't need to spend a dedicated chunk of time making your cat's food. Even then, it's still fine for most people.

If all of that hasn't convinced you to start making DIY cat food, I don't know what will.

What Does DIY Cat Food Need to Include?

Cats are obligate carnivores, but that doesn't mean you can just grind up some chicken breasts and call it good enough. They still need enough nutrition, including vitamins, minerals, fiber, and other ingredients, which means you need a good list of what to include.

You'll want to include:

• A primary protein. Most people start with chicken, but a variety of different primary proteins can work. Pork, eggs, beef, and even more exotic meats like duck, quail, and others are all fine.

• Supplements. Often, the meat you choose won't have all of the nutrients your cat needs. Cats evolved to catch and eat whole prey like birds and mice, including things like bones, organs, and blood. You'll need to replace those with added supplements like taurine, fish oil, and omega-3s.

• Fiber. You don't need a lot of fiber for homemade cat food, but you should have some. A good option is barley powder, which is relatively cheap and serves as a good filler when used in moderation.

Some people recommend grinding up the bones of poultry. Your cat can benefit from the calcium and other nutrients in the bones, but you need to make sure not to cook them so they don't turn sharp and brittle.

Should you cook the protein? That's actually up to you and your cat. Some cats prefer cooked meat, while others like it raw. As long as you cook it without spices, you're fine.

Overcooking the meat can destroy some of the nutrients in it and make it less pleasant for your furry friend to eat, so most people start with raw meat. That said, raw meat does have the potential for bacterial contamination, so keep an eye out for signs of infection after starting a homemade raw cat food diet.

What Should You Leave Out of DIY Cat Food?

One of the benefits of making cat food at home is that it's easy to make a fairly simple recipe. There are a lot of things you generally want to leave out of the food you make, though.

First of all, make sure you avoid any of the human food ingredients that are toxic or bad for cats. I have a whole post about it here, but to replicate the list:

• Alcohols

• Yeasts

• Chocolate

• Coffee and Tea

• Citrus Fruits

• Coconut

• Dairy Products

• Grapes

• Eggs

• Alliums like Onions and Garlic

• Nuts

• Xylitol

• Tomatoes

• Salt

You also want to avoid fillers in excess. A little bit of fiber filler and carbohydrates are fine, but too much will end up hurting your cat in the long term, and that's what you're trying to avoid in the first place.

What about oils? Oils are a good way to get some healthy fats, vitamins, and supplemental nutrients into cat food, but you need to use them in moderation and only use the right kinds of oils. Fish oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, and flaxseed oil are fine, but don't use too much.

Should You Change DIY Cat Food Recipes?

I already mentioned this a little bit above, but there's a pretty good chance that your cat, even if they initially love the DIY cat food recipe you make, is going to get tired of it over time.

I generally recommend only making 1-2 weeks' worth of food at a time so that if they start to get tired of it, you don't have a lot of wasted food they won't eat.

You can change the recipe from time to time, so long as you're as close to nutritionally complete with each recipe as you can be.

What's a Good Recipe for DIY Cat Food?

There are as many recipes for DIY cat food as there are people making them.

Rather than reproduce any here, here are a few links to recipes you can read up on and decide if you want to use them:

• Beef and Barley Cat Food from Cats Magazine

• 5 Vet-Approved Homemade Cat Foods from Cats.com

• Two Options for Homemade Cat Food from Know Better Pet Food

As you can see, they're all pretty simple and don't require a lot of time, equipment, or expensive ingredients. It's easy enough to change them up to suit your fur baby's needs, too.

DIY Cat Food FAQ

Now, let's cover a few points I didn't have space for in the main post, as well as some questions I've been asked about DIY cat foods.

Is DIY cat food cheaper?

Almost always, yes, but various factors can cause the numbers to not quite line up.

If you're going for gourmet, organic meats and high-tier supplements to make your DIY cat food, it's going to be comparatively more expensive than other kinds of homemade cat food recipes. It can be comparable in expense to the cheaper or even mid-range cat foods you would buy at the store.

On the other hand, if you're normally feeding your cat expensive organic food because they have nutritional sensitivities or other issues, making your own food will pretty much always be cheaper.

If cost is your primary concern, consider keeping track of the price of ingredients and doing the math for yourself. It will probably work out in favor of homemade cat food!

Is DIY cat food better for cats?

If you make it right, yes!

This is one of the biggest issues, though.

Many commercial cat foods are engineered to be nutritionally complete, but they may also have excessive amounts of some nutrients or too much filler.

They might also just not be high quality. A lot of these pet foods tend to use scraps and refuse from other meat processing, so the starting ingredients aren't great, and the added nutrients are of lower quality to avoid being too expensive.

While they keep your cat fed, they might not keep your cat healthy. It's why obesity, kidney issues, and other problems can be common in our furry friends.

When you make your cat food at home, you have full control over the ingredients and can make it as high quality as you want. As long as you make sure you're giving them all of the nutrients they need, you'll be good. I recommend running your recipe by your vet to make sure it has everything your fur baby needs.

Should DIY cat food be different for cats of different ages?

Yes!

Kittens, adult cats, and senior cats all need different nutrition to stay healthy. Kittens need more calories and a different balance of nutrients to stay healthy and grow big and strong. Meanwhile, senior cats are more likely to have health issues that need a dietary adjustment.

The post above is pretty much entirely focused on otherwise healthy (or slightly obese) adult cats. Make sure to talk to your vet about homemade food for kittens or for senior cats with different health needs to guarantee that you're giving them what they need.

As always, if you have any questions about this article, please feel free to let me know! I'd be more than happy to help however I can!

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Obviously, there are differences between breeds; a tiny breed isn't going to be able to pull a dog sled, while a huge breed will have trouble running an agility course, and some are better trackers or hunters than others.

Beyond that, though, we have to think about physical disabilities. Just like people, dogs can be born with congenital defects that hinder their abilities. Others might contract illnesses or suffer injuries when they're very young.

Blindness is not a common problem in young dogs, though it can still occur. Those puppies deserve just as much love and affection as any other, but many people may be unwilling or unable to provide them with the care they need. Training a blind puppy can present a lot of challenges, but with dedication, time, and love, they can be overcome.

If you're willing and able to care for a blind puppy and train them in all the things they'll need to know when they grow, I salute you. To help, I've put together this list of ten of the most useful tips I can find, backed by expert dog trainers and behavioralists.

Let's get right to it!

1: Understand Differences

One thing that can be worth thinking about is when your dog lost their sight.

Some dogs are born with either very limited or no vision. These dogs don't know anything different, and while those around them might act as though they can see, the blind puppy doesn't know that. Your puppy will adapt to not having sight with relative ease as long as you're there to help care for them.

For puppies who lose their sight early to injury or illness, don't lose heart. They will still be able to adapt, and probably quickly, too. They just won't adapt quite as fast, because they were learning how to navigate the world with sight, and they lost it and have to learn to compensate.

At the same time, these dogs have some advantages in having some basic idea of what the world is like and what scents might represent, even if they haven't really interacted with it much. They'll probably lose this over time, but it can help overcome some initial hurdles.

As for dogs that lose their vision later in life as mature adults or seniors, there is a whole other array of challenges to consider. Since you aren't as likely to need to train them, though, that's somewhat outside the scope of this post. Some of the tips can still help, though, so keep reading!

2: Be Gentle and Patient

The Browns from Alpha Paws Training recommend being patient and gentle when training a blind pup. Blind dogs may be slower, more hesitant, and less confident in their explorations of the world around them.

They will still be receptive to learning new things, but the usual dog training schedules might not apply. You'll probably need to take longer to train them in certain things and be kind and gentle if they're having issues or accidents.

This is one of the greatest challenges of training a special needs dog. It can feel like they're stuck in their training or they aren't making progress fast enough, and it can be disheartening. Many people have a crisis around this time and consider giving up their pups to someone who has more time and ability to train them.

In my view, as long as you aren't neglecting them or made a promise to do something you couldn't, there's no shame in giving up a special needs pup. They deserve love and care, and if you can't provide it, it's better to hand them over to someone who can instead of struggling in a way that hurts both you and the puppy in the long run.

3: Create a Household Scent Map

Jennifer Mauger, a contributor to Chewy, says one of the most important things you can do is build a household scent map.

A household scent map is a fairly simple thing to build; all you need to do is get something like a bottle of vanilla extract or a lavender essential oil. Rosemary, Cedarwood, and Frankincense are all also good options. These are all scents dogs like and are pleasant enough to people that they won't be unpleasant.

A scent map just means you take that scent and dab a little bit of it on various parts of your home where your dog should know something is there. Corners, doorways, the legs of furniture, even walls.

Since your dog will have a keen sense of smell even though they're blind, they can use this to build a mental map of where things are. This helps them avoid running into walls or furniture, so it's both safe and enjoyable for your pup.

You can even dab some scent on their toys so they know where to find them! You don't need to use different scents for everything (though you can use different scents for different categories of objects, like one for walls and one for toys); just one or two will serve the purpose.

4: Use Clicker Training

Susan Gary of Top Dog Pet Sitters highly recommends clicker training. A clicker is just a small, sharp noisemaker with a button that makes a click when you press it. It's an auditory signal that a blind dog can learn and hear; critically, it's unique enough that your dog won't mistake other noises for it, which is essential for reliable training.

The click alone doesn't mean anything. Your first task with clicker training is to associate the click with a positive outcome, usually a treat. Just click and offer a treat periodically throughout the day to associate the noise with the reward.

Once that's in place – and it won't take long – all you need to do is use the click to identify a specific behavior you want to reinforce. So, say you're teaching your blind puppy to sit; when you say sit, and they sit, the instant their butt touches the ground, click and reward. Eventually, you can drop the reward aspect; the click is enough to reinforce a behavior.

You can read more about clicker training in this guide from the American Kennel Club.

5: Teach a Stop Command

Another important element of training a blind dog is training them to stop on a dime. You can't afford a dog that will run wildly and ignore your commands; there are all kinds of things they can run into or encounter that can be dangerous.

Moreover, there's only so much you can do to dog-proof everything around you. In your house, sure, you can keep things out of head level or away from their common paths, as well as scent-mark things that can't be removed. But other things can change or can't be marked. The edge of a pool or a pond, the trailer hitch on a truck, road traffic, the list goes on.

In these cases, having a firm command that your dog always obeys and that gets them to stop no matter what is critical.

6: Teach Step Up

Another useful command to teach your blind pooch is "step up" or "step down." These are simple commands that serve to warn your pup that a step like a curb or other short stumbling block is just ahead. This can help prevent tripping up or down that step.

While a single misstep is unlikely to cause an injury, it can lead to them being more cautious and hesitant because they don't know when the ground is going to jump out at them (or drop out from under them.)

If you've ever been leaning back in a chair and felt that jolt of almost falling or missed a step when climbing the stairs, imagine how they feel with the same experience but no eyesight.

7: Consider Household Safety

Lara Shannon of Pooches at Play recommends taking some serious time to make your household as safe as possible for your dog. Get down on their level and look at anything that could be head level or below that could cause an issue.

Consider things like:

• Adding corner protectors to doorways and other corners so that even if your dog gets excited and runs into one, they don't hurt themselves.

• Baby gates at the top of staircases so that your dog can't trip and fall down them, potentially injuring themselves in the tumble.

• Adding rugs or other surfaces to slippery floors and other footing hazards.

• Removing fallen branches and other low hazards in your yard where they could run into them while playing or doing their business.

• Adding markers around trees and other outside objects that can't be reliably scent-mapped; a simple ring of a different surface a foot or so out from the trunk of a tree can help warn your pooch something is coming up.

How much you do and what you need to focus on will depend on where you live and what your dog is like. Consider things from their perspective and make them as safe as possible.

8: Don't Rescue Them

Gillian Young, from the Wonder Dog Institute, says one thing you need to do is avoid "rescuing" your pup from common obstacles. It's one thing to snatch them up from a dangerous situation; that's fine. What you want to avoid is "rescuing" them from things that are just a little hard for them.

For example, if your blind dog is having trouble climbing stairs, your goal is to train them to be more confident going up and down the stairs. If you just pick them up and bring them up the stairs in your arms, it can hinder their training and even disorient them.

Blind dogs rely on their other senses to get around, and a big part of that is building and maintaining a mental map of your home and the things in it. Picking them up and putting them down somewhere else means they have to spend time figuring out where they are, and that isn't always easy. Scent maps help, but it's still better not to do it to them in the first place.

Guiding and helping them remain independent is better in every respect.

9: Don't Do Too Much At Once

This is less of a specific tip and more of a story you can take a moral from. Mardi Richmond of Whole Dog Journal tells the story of Orbit, a blind dog who was well-trained and socialized by his parents. One of the biggest challenges he faced was sound, particularly ambient noise.

Blind dogs use scent to map the area around them, but they also use sound to build that awareness. They can hear quite well, too, and can get a lot of information from ambient noise.

The challenge is that we people often tune out a lot of that noise or take it for granted. Things like crowds, traffic, loud machinery, and other noises can be disregarded because we know what they are.

The trouble is, for a blind dog, that's all potentially relevant information. Suddenly being immersed in it can disorient and overwhelm them, especially if they aren't used to it. So, when you're introducing them to new circumstances, be mindful of the noise.

10: Work on Socialization with Well-Trained Dogs

Another tip from the Orbit story is to be slow and careful when socializing your blind dog with other dogs. Since your pup is blind, they won't be able to see the visual cues that other dogs give and expect to be received. Whether it's play bows, social hops, attempts to sniff, or just a wagging tail, it just won't be seen.

So, if the other dogs your dog is learning from are rambunctious, aggressive, or unlikely to recognize a dog without the right social cues, it can cause a communication issue.

The ideal is to make sure you're socializing your pup with stolid, calm, and unflappable dogs that can be just as graceful to a social faux paw as you will be.

As always, if you have any questions, please feel free to let me know! I'd be more than happy to help however I can!

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So, if your cat suddenly yowls while prowling in the grass or stalking something on the wall in another room, and you notice a paw or cheek swelling up, what should you do? Can your cat be allergic to stings? Is it an emergency? Let's talk about it.

Can Your Cat Be Allergic to Bee or Wasp Stings?

I have good news and bad news on this front.

The good news is, it's very rare for cats to be allergic to bee, wasp, and other insect stings. The bad news is, it's not impossible, which means if this is the first time your cat has ever been stung, you need to keep a close eye on them and be ready to bring them to the emergency vet ASAP if something goes wrong.

What are the symptoms of serious allergic reactions?

If your cat is allergic to whatever stung them, they can display serious symptoms, probably right away. Pain and swelling are normal, but serious allergic reactions include symptoms like:

• Weakness or collapsing.

• Rapid breathing or difficulty breathing, as well as panting.

• Hives.

• Vomiting.

• Severe swelling, particularly around the nose, face, and throat.

• Excessive drooling, which can indicate swelling in the throat.

• Seizures, which are an emergency no matter why they occur.

• Diarrhea, which can indicate an internal sting if they ate the bug.

Additionally, some kinds of insect stings are worse than others, and cats can be hypersensitive to some and not others. Knowing what kind of stinging insects are present in your area can help you determine if it's likely to be bad.

If you're worried about stings but your cat hasn't been stung before, consider talking to your vet about emergency antihistamines. You can usually give your cat a bit of Benadryl or another antihistamine as a preventative measure if they've been stung, but you want to make sure you know how much to give them, which can vary depending on their age, size, breed, and any existing health issues.

TL;DR: If your cat has some swelling in an innocuous place like a paw and is generally acting like they're sore but otherwise fine, just keep an eye on them. If they experience any severe or unusual symptoms, it's emergency vet time.

If your cat has ever had a serious allergic reaction to anything – an insect sting, food, or anything else – your vet will probably prescribe an EpiPen to keep on hand for emergencies. Make sure to use it if you see signs of a serious allergic reaction, and then head to the vet ASAP.

What Should You Do if Your Cat is Stung by a Wasp or Bee?

If your cat is stung, you'll want to first review the above and make sure it isn't serious. Beyond that, you can administer first aid. Here's what to do.

Step 0: Vacate the area if necessary

I'm putting this as a brief step zero because it's usually not necessary, but in some cases, it might be. Basically, if you and your fur baby are out exploring the yard, or you're hanging out in the garage, or something of the sort, you might encounter not just one stinging insect but a whole nest of them. If your cat has disturbed a hive insect that goes and brings its pals, it can go from an annoyance to extremely dangerous very quickly. Even cats that aren't allergic to insect stings can suffer extreme consequences if they're stung dozens of times!

So, if you happen to be in a place where you and your cat are at risk of disturbing a whole nest of stinging bugs, grab them and get out of there. Everything else comes after.

Step 1: See if you can recover the insect

Sometimes, whatever stung your cat will still be there. Some bees and wasps have barbed stingers that can stick in place, often with the whole insect still attached. Other times, a tenacious wasp might stick around to try to sting again. They can be surprisingly vindictive!

Locate the site of the sting and check to see if the insect is still there. You can use something like a credit card or other flat object to scrape the insect away (and potentially capture it in a cup if you think you need to) and make sure to check for a stinger left behind as well. If the insect isn't still there, you should still check for the stinger.

Note: don't use tweezers! For much the same reason you shouldn't use them on ticks, tweezers put pressure on the insect and can squeeze more venom or contaminants into your cat. Not only does this make it more painful, it can cause infections.

You don't need to keep the bee or wasp alive or even keep it. It's not really like spiders or snakes, where knowing the exact species can influence treatment or antivenom. It's more just so that if there happen to be extremely bad stinging wasps and less bad ones, you know what to expect.

The main goal is to get it away from you and your cat and out of the house if necessary. I don't really advocate for killing pollinators, but if that's what you need to do to keep yourself and your fur baby safe, so be it.

Step 2: Soothe the sting

Your next goal is to soothe the site of the sting as much as you can.

The biggest challenge here is wrangling your cat. In the initial aftermath of the sting – when it can do the most good – your cat probably won't want to be grabbed and hassled. Instead, you may be better off letting them settle a bit before you try to handle it. On the other hand, some cats will come right to you to make it better, so you never can tell.

There are a few ways you can soothe a bee or wasp sting.

One option is a cool to cold moist towel or washcloth. Cold can help numb and soothe the area, reduce immediate inflammation, and reduce any itching or pain that comes from the site of the sting. A damp, cold towel is the easiest option for a cat, but it can warm up relatively quickly. Ice can be more soothing and last longer, but a severe enough temperature difference can be shocking enough on its own to startle your cat and make them uncomfortable, which won't help.

If they won't sit still for the cold application, another option is to make a thick paste out of a little water and a bunch of baking soda. This is a home remedy with folklore that claims the baking soda can neutralize the venom of an insect sting. There hasn't been any real research to tell if this is true or not, but some people swear by it.

Step 3: Consider the cone

Or, well, not a cone, but an Elizabethan collar or another preventative measure. Since the site of the sting will be irritated, swollen, painful, and potentially itchy, you want to prevent your cat from scratching or biting themselves raw over it. If they're allowed to keep poking at it, they'll end up delaying the healing, which doesn't help anyone.

It depends on how bad the sting is, how reactive your cat is to it, and how effectively it can be soothed through other means. Some cats will just deal with it and will largely leave it alone, but others can't stop poking at it. So, a collar, a shirt, or another protective measure might be necessary.

Step 4: Evaluate if special feeding will be necessary

The two most common places where cats are stung are their paws and their face. This is because cats don't have a whole lot of ways they can interact with the world around them, so they'll paw at, pounce, sniff at, and even bite at things like bees and wasps, at least until they learn how to recognize it. These are also the areas with the thinnest fur; many bees and wasps might not even be able to penetrate through a cat's fur coat for a casual sting. They'd have to really work at it.

If your cat was stung on the face, even if it doesn't swell up in a way that hinders their breathing, it can still make it awkward for them to eat. So, if they have trouble eating (or drinking) due to a swollen cheek, lip, or other part of their face, you may need to hand-feed them for a day or two until the swelling goes down enough that they can eat on their own.

You might also consider adding water to soften up their kibble or dry food. It's not just a way to make it easier for them to eat, either. They may not want to drink as much as they should, so adding water to their food helps keep them hydrated.

Should you give your cat antihistamines?

Above, I mentioned the possibility of giving your cat something like Benadryl to help them deal with the reaction to the sting. Should you do so?

The answer here is probably not unless you have a good reason to do so. For a cat that doesn't have an allergic reaction to a bee sting, the irritation, pain, and swelling are just coming from the toxin, not so much from the histamine reaction. That means that something like Benadryl might help a little because it sedates your fur baby, but it's not going to do much more than that.

The antihistamine is primarily for either buying time to get to the vet in the case of a severe reaction or in the case where they do have an allergic reaction, but it's generally mild. Either way, you should consult with your vet to know whether or not you should give them any, and if so, how much of what.

It's also important to know that different antihistamines work differently, and some of them are dangerous for cats. Pet-friendly antihistamines are medications like chlorpheniramine, but they're generally very slow-acting, so they aren't good for a sudden sting.

Benadryl – diphenhydramine – is generally considered safe for pets, but some can be overly sensitive to it, and they don't need very much. It can cause toxicity, which has a variety of symptoms. Other antihistamines can also be bad for cats. You might also have a form of antihistamine that also includes pain medications or other compounds that can be dangerous.

It's usually best to talk to your vet before administering any medications. If your cat is suffering from a sting in a significant way, your vet can do more than just an antihistamine, too, like giving them IV fluids, corticosteroids, or a stronger medication like epinephrine.

Let it heal

Finally, all you can really do after the initial soothing is let it heal. Whether your cat needs a collar or just a day in a dark room away from annoyances, bee stings generally go away in 1-2 days as long as the symptoms are mild. All your fur baby needs is love, care, and time, as long as nothing dangerous is happening. You can give them that, right?

Fortunately, after a sting, cats often learn what a stinging insect looks like and will be able to avoid going after them again, as rare as they are to get inside in the first place.

As always, if you have any questions about anything I discussed in this article, please feel free to let me know. I always love helping my readers however I can!

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Which fruits are the best, and are there any fruits you should avoid? Let's dig right in!

#1: Apples

Apples are readily available all throughout the year and come in dozens of different varieties, which can be sweet, tart, and everything in between. They're rich in vitamin A and vitamin C, both of which are important for a healthy canine, and the dietary fiber they provide can help ensure clean bowel movements and minimal mess to clean up on those walks.

One important note about apples is that you should always slice them and keep the core away from your pooch. The core, which contains the seeds of the apple, is both tough and less pleasant to eat, and the seeds have cyanide in them.

While it's not enough cyanide for us humans to really worry about if we accidentally eat a seed or two, our dogs are much smaller and more vulnerable to those kinds of toxins.

Apples are also fairly firm, so cutting them into smaller bits helps reduce the risk of choking. That's going to be true of any firm fruit, so keep it in mind as you go.

#2: Blueberries

Blueberries are one of the healthiest fruits around for both people and puppies. They're super rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, and they're very tasty to boot.

As an added bonus, they're already bite-sized for dogs, so they're easy to just use as small treats or to hand over a handful after a good day of training.

Different people give blueberries differently, and it can also depend on the size of your dog. Small breeds might find berries to be a bit of a choking hazard, especially if they don't chew them properly, so you might consider mashing up the berries first.

You could also partially freeze them so they're more solid to chew on, which can be helpful if you want to put them in an engaging puzzle feeder.

One thing to keep in mind about blueberries is the pigment in their skin can stain, so don't give your dog blueberries when they're in the room with the white carpet. That same pigment can tint their poo later, too, so don't be too concerned if it looks a lot darker than normal after a handful of berries.

#3: Pears

Pears are a safe, tasty, and relatively inoffensive fruit you can give to your dog. Pear juice is used in tons of beverages because it's essentially a neutral flavor that just adds sweetness without adding too much sugar, and the same goes for using it as a dog treat.

Your dog will enjoy it, of course, and it's full of vitamins like vitamin C and vitamin K, which are important for a healthy doggo. As with most fruits, though, you want to make sure to remove the seeds and core before handing it over.

#4: Strawberries

Strawberries are sweet, delicious, and healthy for most dogs. They have vitamins, antioxidants, and plenty of healthy components. More importantly, there are no toxic substances you have to worry about.

Your dog could even eat them with the hull still on if you want, though I find that prepping a bunch of berries and leaving off the hulls is easier.

Strawberries are just on the edge of having too much sugar, so keep that in mind and only feed them in moderation. Smaller dogs can also find them a choking hazard, so making sure they're soft and ripe, mashing them, or cutting them into smaller pieces can be a good idea.

#5: Watermelon

A staple of summer, watermelon is one of the best fruits you can feed to your pup on a hot day. The rind should be removed, of course – it's tough and indigestible, so it's not very pleasant for your doggo.

The seeds should also be removed if possible, but they aren't likely to cause a huge problem if you miss a couple. Seedless watermelons can also be a good option if you don't want to go through all of that hassle.

The biggest benefit of watermelon is just the first part of the name: water. Watermelon is 90% water, so it's great for hydration without overdoing it on the water bowl and risking an accident or other problem. It also has a lot of potassium and vitamins, so it's generally healthy. Cut it, trim it down, and let them enjoy it!

#6: Coconut

Coconut is an interesting fruit in many ways. Obviously, you can't just give one shell and all to your pooch, but if you break it open and scoop out some of the fruit inside, it can be a tasty treat.

This really only applies to fresh coconuts, though. You don't want to be giving your pup sweetened and shredded coconut, or even coconut flakes, for both digestive and sugar reasons. On the plus side, it's a fruit rich in healthy fats, which can be a key part of your pup's macronutrient profile.

#7: Pumpkin

Depending on your perspective, pumpkin might be considered more of a vegetable than a fruit, but it's on my list either way. Pumpkin can be very tasty, healthy, and good for your dog, but you have to make sure you're either using unsweetened, unadulterated pumpkin puree or baking your own pumpkin so it's soft and good for them. Obviously, a pie filling full of sugar and spices just won't do.

Pumpkin Is also a key ingredient in healthy dog treats, dog treat recipes you can make at home, and even mixed with chicken for a tasty food when your dog is feeling under the weather.

#8: Cranberries

Cranberries aren't just a staple of juices, Christmas recipes, and that sauce in a can that comes out as a cylinder; they're an incredible superfood. They're packed with so many vitamins and minerals I could write a whole post just on how good they are.

I recommend sticking with fresh cranberries rather than dried, though; dried cranberries often have added sugars or even xylitol, and that's no good.

Are There Fruits to Avoid Giving to Your Dog?

Not all fruits are great for your dog, but most of them are at least safe. Some can be toxic, and others harmful in other ways.

The poster child for fruits to keep away from your dog is grapes. Grapes contain compounds that can be extremely toxic to dogs, but it's a per-dog sensitivity. Some are fine; some go into shock very quickly. Keep them away to be on the safe side. Note that this includes raisins as well!

Avocados are another example. It contains a compound called persin that can be dangerous, and while the flesh of the avocado doesn't have a ton of it, it can still be enough to upset your dog's stomach. The high fat content can also cause problems.

Another fruit you might want to avoid is pineapple. Pineapple can be given to your dog in moderation, but it has a few problems. For one thing, it's very high in sugar, which is generally bad for most dogs, especially dogs with prediabetes or diabetes.

The pineapple skin is indigestible, so it can cause digestion issues and even bowel obstructions. There's also the enzyme in it! If you've ever eaten a bunch of pineapple, you know that funny feeling in your mouth? That's the pineapple enzyme breaking down your mouth skin. You don't want to do that to your pooch, right?

Another fruit you might consider avoiding is blackberries. They're full of antioxidants and healthy phytochemicals, but they also contain naturally occurring xylitol, which is toxic to dogs. Your dog would have to eat a lot of them (unless it's a very small breed) to be hurt by it, but it's still better to be safe, right?

Dog Fruit Snacks FAQ

Now, let's round things out with a couple of questions that I didn't have space to cover in the list above.

What other fruits are good for dogs?

Most fruits are at least safe for your dog to eat or are safe after you do a little preparation. For example, mangos are a tasty treat, but you can't just give them one whole. The pit can cause problems if you do, and the skin is hard for your furry friend to digest. Peel and core the mango and give them bites of it, and you're fine.

Other melons than watermelon – like cantaloupe and honeydew – are also good options, but they have the same caveats. No rind, no seeds, in moderation because of the sugars.

What fruits should you leave off the list?

There are a handful of fruits that are healthy and won't hurt your dog the way a toxic fruit might but are still less good for them than the other fruits on the list.

One big example is bananas. Bananas are full of potassium and other nutrients and can be perfectly fine treats for a dog, but they're also very sweet and full of sugar, which can cause problems, especially if your dog is diabetic. Oranges are also one that is often more trouble than it's worth. You want to leave off the peel and the seeds, at which point you have a mess on your hands.

Peaches aren't bad for your dog – as long as you don't feed them the stone – but they're also emblematic of a common mistake, which is using canned rather than fresh peaches. Canned peaches have tons more sugar and are much worse for your dog. The same goes for any canned fruit, really.

Grapefruit is another fruit you should consider leaving off the list. It's annoying like oranges, but it's more acidic, which can upset your poor puppy's stomach. There are also compounds in grapefruit that can interfere with medications – it's more of a problem for people, but you don't want it to cause problems in a senior dog, right?

Is it a good idea to give dogs fruit as a treat?

Many fruits can be good treats. They're tasty, they're usually fairly healthy, and they serve to break up the usual routine of kibble and treats like cheese or sausage.

Even so, they should be considered a "sometimes food" because of their sugar content, and you still have to avoid the ones that can be bad for your pooch.

Do dogs need fruit to be healthy?

Nope!

As people, we're used to a balanced diet from the food pyramid, and the recommendation to get however many servings of fruit and veg each day. Dogs are omnivores just like us, so they can eat most of the same things, but they don't need to.

The biggest reason why is actually their existing food. Dog foods are specially formulated to contain all of the macro and micro-nutrients your dog will need to stay healthy. They don't need added fruits, vegetables, or anything else to stay healthy.

Why can we make a nutritionally-complete kibble for dogs but not for people? Dogs have much less complex dietary needs, for one thing. Human nutrition is immensely complicated, especially since we need to get it right, or we start to develop neurological problems.

We also live a lot longer, so there's a lot more time for problems to develop. Dogs might have problems subsisting just on kibble if they lived to be 60 as well, but they don't have that kind of lifespan.

How much fruit can my dog have?

Not much! In general, treats should make up 10% or less of your dog's diet. Fruit should be considered a treat, not a staple, for this purpose. So, try to avoid giving them too much fruit!

If your dog is eating too much fruit on a regular basis, they'll generally start to develop signs of an upset stomach. You don't want to make your fur baby sick, right?

So, there you have it: a good rundown of what fruits are good for dogs in moderation and which ones you might want to avoid. If you have a specific question about a fruit I haven't listed, feel free to drop me a line!

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Now, we've all been there, right? Everyone has that moment as a kid where they eat too much cake and feel sick, or gorge on holiday candy and treats, or just go too deep on whatever it is they're fixated on at the time. However, we don't usually eat until we actually throw up. And, critically, we're doing it with something we enjoy.

So, do dogs just really like eating grass? Is this a behavior we should be worried about? Let's talk about it.

Why Do Dogs Eat Grass Until Vomiting?

First up, let's talk a bit about why dogs eat grass in the first place. Then, we'll get into whether or not you should be concerned and what you should do about it.

Before getting into the actual reasons, I wanted to mention a common myth: that dogs are intentionally gorging themselves on grass to induce vomiting.

So, you know how when you have nausea, and you feel the bile rising in your throat, and your mouth starts to salivate a lot? It's a biological reaction to get you to swallow a lot of liquid to try to settle your stomach, or at least coat your mouth and throat before you vomit to protect it from stomach acid.

In dogs, the same sort of thing happens, but they don't really know how to deal with it. Most of the time, they start licking or chewing on anything nearby. If they're outside in the yard or on a walk, they'll start eating grass in an attempt to settle their stomachs, but since grass isn't really part of their diet, it can trigger their gag reflex and make them vomit.

Basically, they aren't intentionally making themselves vomit, but that's what ends up happening, and since vomiting often alleviates whatever was causing the digestive upset in the first place, it kind of works out.

Another common reason people think dogs eat grass is out of boredom, but that's not really accurate either. Dogs, when they're bored, are more likely to be destructive than consumptive. They might eat things like grass, cardboard, furniture, pillow stuffing, and whatever else they can get their paws on, but it's more of a side effect of just tearing it apart. They aren't doing it to eat grass; they're doing it as part of just doing something to get your attention.

What are the actual reasons dogs eat grass? There are basically three main reasons.

Reason #1: They just like the taste.

The first reason dogs eat grass is just because they like how it tastes.

You and I eat vegetables and (usually) enjoy them, right? Whether it's some lettuce in a salad, some broccoli or cauliflower roasted in the oven, or a nice pile of carrots and potatoes on the side, vegetables can be quite delicious.

And, of course, we all know that dogs love eating things they find tasty. Whether it's their kibble, a treat like a bit of cheese, or a pile of something weird and gross on the ground, they'll dig right in. Their tastes might not make sense to us, but to them, and the way they see the world, it's delicious.

Grass can be tasty in its own right. Even plants you might not think you would eat can be tasty in the right preparations, and to dogs, that right preparation might be as simple as "still wet from morning dew or a rainstorm" or "covered in the scent of other animals that ran through here."

It also ties into the second reason; after all, when you evolve to do something, you probably evolve to at least find it palatable.

Reason #2: It's an instinctual behavior.

Dogs are a distant offshoot of wolves, and wolves also eat grass. They do it for many of the same reasons, but also, it's just part of hunting. Sometimes, they need something moderately nutritious to fuel them while they hunt prey. Sometimes, when they take down prey, as they eat the meat, they end up with mouthfuls of grass as well. They can't necessarily afford to be picky eaters, so they take what they get.

A lot of times, dogs just have this need to eat grass as they pass by. There doesn't really need to be a deeper meaning to it at all; it's just something they do because their little goofy brains tell them it's a good idea.

Reason #3: They have an upset stomach.

I already covered this one above in a roundabout way. Dogs don't really have the drive to eat grass to satisfy an upset stomach, but if they're feeling nauseous, they might want something to try to keep it down. If they don't have access to grass, maybe they'll just start licking the carpet, or they'll go and drink a bunch of water.

And, truth be told, sometimes it works. In fact, while the experience of a dog eating grass and then throwing up seems universal, studies have shown that only around 10% of dogs show any sign of being ill before they eat grass, and only a quarter of them vomit after eating grass. You might even be able to attribute the vomiting to over-eating in general or to eating something on the grass that disagrees with them.

In a way, it's a lot like how we can settle our stomachs with neutral crackers or digestives or something else that can soak up churning stomach acid and help the system move a little faster.

Should You Worry If Your Dog is Eating Grass?

Honestly, probably not!

It's fairly natural for dogs to eat grass from time to time. Some of them will want to eat grass pretty often, maybe on every walk or every chance they get. Others might only think of it as a sometimes snack, taking mouthfuls of a tasty grass they find along the way but generally leaving it all along.

There are a few good reasons why you might want to do some redirection training and help keep your dog from eating grass too often, though.

• If they eat too much grass, it can fill them up, so they won't eat their normal food and can end up deficient.
• If they eat too much grass, it can cause an upset stomach and lead to problems.
• They might eat things along with the grass that they shouldn't, whether it's sharp bits of wood, stinging plants like nettles, plants like poison ivy that can cause a bad reaction, or things like stinging insects that can cause other problems.
• The grass they eat might have chemicals or other nastiness on it that can be dangerous for your dog, even if the grass itself is not.

Overall, if your dog is eating grass, you should look at the situation and figure out why they're doing it and if it's cause for concern. If it's sporadic or occasional and doesn't seem to cause them any problems, you can leave it be.

If they're eating grass while also doing things like digging holes or tearing up the carpet, it probably means they're bored. They might also do things like eat your houseplants, which is also obviously not something you want them to be doing.

Boredom means that training isn't likely to work since it doesn't address the cause of the problem. You'll simply need to find ways to keep your dog entertained and engaged, even when you're not around. That might mean hiring a pet sitter for the day, or a dog walker, or getting friends to hang out and care for them. Alleviating boredom and the anxiety that comes with it is the key.

If your dog seems to have a compulsion to eat grass and they seem to be fixated on it whenever you take them out, there are two things you can do.

The first is to take them to the vet to see if there's actually something wrong with them. It's pretty rare for this to be the case – your fur baby isn't going to be eating grass as their sole symptom, so you'd be able to recognize if they're sick in other ways – but it's possible. A rare disorder called pica, or disordered eating, can lead to dogs trying to eat just about everything they see, including grass. Other medical issues, like gastric reflux, IBS, or pancreatitis, can also lead to eating grass. It's a good idea to rule these out.

The other thing you should do is try redirection training. Redirection training just means that whenever you see your dog start to lean over to eat grass, you give them a call or command to distract them and reward them for not eating the grass. I find that a "drop it" command can be pretty effective.

If you do this consistently enough, they'll attach the reward in their mind to the act of refraining from eating grass, and they'll stop. You do need to be consistent and proactive with it. It will take some time, just like all dog training, but it's not actually all that hard to do.

Overall, though, unless your dog has accidentally poisoned themselves, gotten themselves sick or parasitized, or is eating so much that they cause problems, you probably don't need to worry about them eating grass. Sometimes, the things dogs do are just things dogs do, and they aren't a sign of anything worse.

Another thing you can try is changing their food. There was one recorded example of a dog that ate grass to the point of vomiting every day for years, and it turned out to be something with their food that disagreed with them. When their parents changed their food, they stopped eating grass, and everything was good. That might not be the case for your dog, but it might be worth a try.

Dog Grass Eating FAQ

Now, let's round things out with a few questions you might have that didn't fit into the main sections.

Do dogs like eating grass?

Maybe! Like most things, your dog is an individual, and they have their own preferences. Some dogs don't care about grass one way or the other. Some prefer to avoid it when they can. Some like the texture or the taste of the grass. Some might not actually be going after the grass itself, but rather, some kind of chemical or fertilizer or a specific plant in the grass, like clover. If you notice that your dog eats grass a lot more in the spring, that's likely it; fresh grass shoots and wildflower sprigs are sweeter and more tender, while later summer and fall grasses are rougher and more likely to be bitter.

Is grass bad for dogs to eat?

Only in excess. Dogs are omnivores just like we are, so just like we can eat some vegetables in our diet, dogs can have a little grass as a treat if they like. Cats are the same way, though they aren't quite the same kind of omnivore.

That said, if they eat too much grass, it can cause problems, so you should probably try to train away that behavior as much as you can. You don't need them to fully stop; just not eat to excess.

More importantly, though, even if the grass isn't bad for your dog, you never know what's in the grass. There could be toxic fertilizer, pesticides, roadside chemicals, and even parasites that can come along for the ride. If you keep your yard free of contaminants, you may be fine, but it's best to be safe.

Is eating grass a sign of nutritional deficiency?

While this is a pretty common myth, it's actually just that: a myth. For one thing, if you're feeding your dog right, they won't be nutritionally deficient in the first place. More importantly, if they are deficient in some nutrient or another, they'll have symptoms of that deficiency, usually weight loss, lethargy, loss of coordination, or another sign of illness.

Overall, you generally don't need to worry about your dog eating grass, even if they vomit after doing it. It's only if they do it over and over and over that it might be an issue, but even then, it's unlikely to be an emergency. Just mention it next time you bring them to the vet, and work on some training along the way.

As always, if you have any questions about anything I covered in this article, be sure to let me know in the comments section!

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Well, unfortunately, our fur babies don't know English and can't really think in terms of conceptual idioms. You can tell them not to bite the hand that feeds, but when they're riled up, there's a pretty good chance they still will. And, unlike people acting out, cats that bite the hand that feeds are literally biting a literal hand. Ouch!

Cats aren't really trying to hurt you when they bite you, but it can still be painful, especially if they weren't socialized as kittens and don't know how to control their teeth. Obviously, you don't want to get bitten by your kitten, so how do you deal with cat biting? Read on to find out!

Why Cats Bite

First, let's talk about why cats bite in the first place.

Much like dogs, cats don't have a lot of ways they can interact with the world around them. They aren't as outgoing and exploratory as dogs – they aren't going to be putting everything they can in their mouths – but they still have to interact in some way. Biting is one of those behaviors they use to interact with and learn about the world around them.

While we tend to view biting as a negative behavior (because it hurts), it's actually not usually negative; it's neutral or even a little positive. It's an instinctual behavior, and it can come from many causes.

Cat Biting Cause #1: Affection Biting

The first cause for cat biting is actually a sign of affection. It's not really a full-mouth bite but more of a little nip or nibble.

It can happen as a sort of progression from mutual grooming; your cat is cuddling, licks at you a bit, and decides they've found something they want to pick at a bit more and uses their teeth to do it.

Normally, cats do this to each other to help pick away knotted fur or remove parasites from each other, but you probably don't have those. So, what are they biting at? It doesn't have to be much. A bit of body hair, a skin tag, a fingertip.

There's not really much of anything wrong with this kind of biting other than the fact that it can be unpleasant for you if they bite the wrong thing.

A similar and related kind of cat biting is when they're bored. This is a kind of affection biting, but it's because they're seeking affection. They want you to play, so they may start trying to bat at and bite at your hands or feet to get you to give them attention.

Cat Biting Cause #2: Play

This one is most common with cats playing with each other but can occur when you're playing with them. One of the ways cats play with each other is with faux hunting.

One will stalk and pounce on the other, they'll tussle a bit, and separate. Then, the roles reverse, and the hunter becomes the hunted. This kind of back-and-forth play is a good way to teach hunting behaviors and socialization without much risk of issues.

With cat-on-cat playing, as long as they're not yowling and trying to escape, it's all fun and games. Cats are pretty good at letting each other know when enough is enough, and the play session will end before either goes overboard.

If you're playing with your cat, there's a decent chance they'll nip at you while you're engaging with them. Sometimes, it's cause #3 below, but other times, it's just how they interact with you.

Cat Biting Cause #3: Overstimulation

A third and potentially related cause of cat biting is overstimulation. This can occur in two different scenarios.

The first is during cuddling and petting or brushing. You're sitting there idly stroking your cat's fur while they doze or simply enjoy it. Maybe you rub at their face a little, scratch behind their ears, whatever you and they enjoy.

Have you ever been hanging out and generally enjoying yourself, but it starts to get to be too much? Maybe a noise in the background starts to bother you more and more.

Maybe the feeling of a fabric pressed against your skin is starting to chafe. Cats can experience the same sort of thing! It's called overstimulation. They may enjoy you petting them and scratching behind their ears, but if you do it too much, they're going to tip over beyond enjoyment and into irritation.

In this case, they'll probably nip at your hand when you try to keep petting them. This nip is a warning; your cat is saying "please stop" in as polite a way as they can manage.

They'd like to continue sitting near you, but they want you to stop touching them. If you keep on petting them, they'll get more aggravated and will probably just leave.

The other scenario where overstimulation biting occurs is during play. If you're playing with them with your hand – going after their belly, flopping them around, picking them up, and putting them down – they may have enough of it. They'll bat at your hands, maybe kick at you with their hind legs, and eventually escalate into nipping at you.

Some cats do this as part of play, while others use it to signal that they're done with playing and it's time to stop. If you keep aggressively playing with them, they'll get more and more aggressive in return until either you stop or they leave.

Cat Biting Cause #4: Fear

This one is a very different kind of bite. The first two causes are from cats that generally know and trust you and who are just warning you a little bit to settle down. This third cause is from a cat that doesn't know you and doesn't trust you.

Cats may be ferocious hunters, but they're still small, and they're vulnerable to larger predators. As such, they really don't like the feeling of being hunted, cornered, or threatened.

Cats can try to bite if you're cornering them or stalking them, and they feel like they have no way out except through violence.

This is most common with ferals or strays that have not been socialized in a while and can happen a lot when you're trying to TNVR them to make your local environment safer for them.

The less well-socialized a cat is, the more likely they are to feel this way and to bite out of reaction. They'll also swipe at you, hiss at you, spit or snarl at you, and generally make it clear that they don't want you to approach.

Cat Biting Cause #5: Pain

Another major cause of cat biting is pain.

One thing most of us know about cats is that they really don't like showing when they're feeling bad. Showing weakness in the wild is a good way to be singled out by a predator, after all. That means when a cat is in pain, whether it's from an injury, infection, illness, or disease, they're going to do everything they can to hide it.

As a cat parent, you'll hopefully be able to recognize this based on a change in behavior. They'll be more withdrawn, less energetic, have less of an appetite, and likely will hide more. When you notice this, you can bring your furry child to the vet to get them checked out, though coaxing them out so you can take them might be difficult.

If you're still able to interact with your cat while they're in pain, the good news is it's probably not that bad. The bad news is it can seem like a sudden change in attitude or behavior when you touch the wrong spot, and they lash out.

Really, it's not much different from someone poking you when you're in pain and you swatting at them to go away. If you poke a bruise, cut, sensitive patch of skin, or area with internal pain, your cat may react with a bite.

How to Get Your Cat to Stop Biting

The first thing you need to do to get your cat to stop biting is to identify why they're biting in the first place.

Start by asking yourself a question: are they biting on their own initiative, or are they biting out of a reaction?

If your cat is biting on their own initiative, it's usually because they're seeking attention. You can train away this behavior by redirecting biting; when they start to bite at you, redirect them with a toy that they're allowed to bite instead of your appendages.

If your cat is biting out of a reaction – which is going to be the most common cause by far – you need to identify what they're reacting to.

• If they're biting when you touch a certain place, stop touching that place. If they are reacting badly and have other behavioral changes, consider taking them to the vet in case something is wrong.
• If they're biting when you haven't changed what you're doing for a while – like idly petting them while cuddling or watching TV – it's their way of telling you they've had enough of what you're doing, and you should stop.
• If they're biting when you're playing with them, it's probably overstimulation, and it's a sign that you need to dial back on what you're doing to let them calm down a bit before re-engaging. That, or switch to a toy that they can bite without causing you problems.

If you can recognize that the reason they're biting is because of something you're doing, it's easy enough to stop doing whatever that is.

The biggest exception is if you're trying to corner them to, say, take them to the vet, which is really the wrong approach in the first place.

The vet should be a relatively pleasant experience if you can make it one, such as by helping your cat be more comfortable with their carrier so it's not a sign of an unpleasant time.

Cat Biting FAQ

Let's wrap things up with a few questions you might have. If I haven't answered your question, feel free to ask in the comments!

Is cat biting normal?

It sure is! Cats don't have a lot of options when it comes to play, fighting, defensiveness, or interaction with the world around them. It really comes down to body language, noises, paws and claws, and biting. Of course, they're going to use every tool at their disposal, depending on the circumstances.

Is biting a sign that your cat is sick?

It can be. If your cat is sick, they certainly won't want to be touched, but they're more likely to go hide from you than they are to stick around and bite if you try to pet them. Sometimes, though, they can have an injury that doesn't cause them active pain, but they'll bite if you touch it and it hurts.

Reactionary biting out of nowhere can be a sign that something vet-worthy is happening, though, so keep it in mind when and call your vet if it happens for seemingly no reason.

Can you train cats to stop biting?

Yup! Much like any form of animal training, and especially cat training, it's all about redirecting their behaviors into something you prefer while rewarding them for doing what you want rather than what you don't.

If your cat is very young – such as within their first six to twelve months of age – they will probably be more bitey than older cats. When that's the case, they may grow out of it as they get older, and training might not even be necessary.

Is there anything to avoid when training a cat to stop biting?

There is, yes. The biggest thing you need to avoid is punishment. If you do something like swat at your cat when they bite, they may respond with more aggression, or they might feel like it's more play and will escalate, depending on the situation. Either way, it results in more biting, not less. Even things like punishment by removing something aren't necessarily going to teach them not to bite.

Is there anything else I didn't cover? If so, let me know!

Some of us are familiar enough with it that we keep track of those odors – unpleasant as they can be – as a sign of health.

One of the key factors that influence a dog's breath is their dental hygiene. Unfortunately, while dogs can be trained to do a lot, you really can't train them to brush their teeth, floss, or use mouthwash.

Even if they wanted to, they don't have hands! So, you have to do what you can to keep their teeth healthy and strong.

What Dental Care Does Your Dog Need?

Dogs need to keep their teeth for as long as possible because it's how they chew their food and how they handle things in their mouth.

If their teeth aren't properly cared for, they can cause pain, lead to infections, break, or fall out. Over time, your dog may end up without teeth entirely, and you'll need to adapt the kinds of food and other activities you perform with them.

What care does your dog's mouth need?

Daily Brushing

Ideally, you will brush your pupper's teeth once a day. The biology of the mouth is the same between dogs and people, more or less, and that means after they eat, bits of food, saliva, bacteria, and other stuff form a sticky plaque that adheres to teeth.

This plaque is alive due to the bacteria, which secrete acids as they live. Those acids eat away at teeth and cause inflammation, decay, and infection to gums and bone.

Therefore, the best time to brush your dog's teeth is shortly after a meal. However, as we often don't have the time or the patience to do that, you can pick any time that is convenient for you as long as it gets done.

Better Food

One of the dirty secrets of dog food is that many dog foods contain fillers. We all know this, of course, but what most people don't realize is that those fillers are often much worse for oral health than natural ingredients.

Things like grains and other carbohydrates are better food for the bad mouth bacteria and more readily form plaques. So, feeding your pooch better food will help in a bunch of different ways, including with tooth care.

Regular Exams

Routine dental examinations, including x-rays and cleanings, can help prevent the build-up of plaques and gum disease and detect abscesses under the gums, lesions on bone, and other oral issues. They can even detect other forms of illness, including oral tumors before they get large enough to become a visible problem.

You often don't need a full anesthetic dental visit every six months. Your vet will check for signs of tooth and mouth problems in a casual examination when you bring your dog in, and only if they have signs of issues will a dental trip be recommended. At that point, you can plan for a trip where anesthetic may be likely, a deeper clean is required, and even dental care like fillings can be performed.

How to Help Keep Your Dog's Mouth Healthy at Home

Keeping your pooch's mouth healthy at home will have long-term repercussions. They'll be able to live without mouth pain, they'll have teeth that can keep them happy and healthy for longer, and you won't have to worry about softer foods for a while.

Older dogs can still succumb to the inevitable – that is, teeth will decay over time, and there's not much we can do about it – but the longer you can hold it off, the better.

So, what can you do to help keep your dog's mouth healthy at home?

Get in the habit of brushing their teeth.

Sadly, while we all know that caring for teeth is important, less than 1% of dog parents actually brush their pup's teeth. As a result, nearly 80% of dogs over three years old have full-blown periodontal disease, and will have long-term repercussions because of it.

Some dogs are placid and happy to let you mess around in their mouth. Most, though, aren't, so you're going to need to train them to tolerate it.

First, buy a doggy toothbrush and doggy toothpaste. Toothbrushes are designed with soft bristles, angled handles, and even multiple heads to make it easier to get all the angles of all the teeth fast and effectively.

Doggy toothpaste is especially important. One of the most common additives in human toothpaste is xylitol, which helps to restore tooth enamel. Unfortunately, it's also very toxic to dogs. Doggy toothpaste also comes in flavors they'll enjoy, like chicken, peanut butter, or beef.

The actual act of training is slow and works best if you start when they're young.

• Start by just getting them to hold still while you inspect their mouth.
• Once you can do that, start introducing the toothbrush. Don't brush yet; just touch parts of their mouth to get them used to the feeling until they can tolerate it.
• Introduce the toothpaste. You might want to put a little on a finger or on the toothbrush and let them sniff and lick it so they know it's not something to be scared of.
• Start brushing teeth. It's easiest to hold their lip up and brush their front teeth to start, so they get used to the sensation.
• Over time, add more teeth until you can brush all of their teeth inside and out.

Throughout this whole process, praise them and pet them for tolerating it without complaint. If they start to reject it, dial back, and don't force it. You'll be able to help them get used to it over time.

The American Kennel Club goes into this process in greater detail if you want a bit more elaboration.

Buy dental-friendly dog food.

Something I already mentioned above is that dog foods can be pretty bad for your dog, especially if they're full of carbohydrates and fillers that fuel the bad bacteria.

Dental dog foods aren't as good as tooth brushing, but they can help cut down on the food that fuels the bacteria that cause tooth decay.

Unfortunately, they tend to be more expensive and harder to find than normal dog foods, and they aren't always compatible with allergy foods, so you may not be able to use them over an allergy-friendly food.

There are also prescription dog foods for more extreme or more sensitive cases. Some dogs need carefully balanced food, and some are just a lot more susceptible to tooth decay than others. In those cases, getting a prescription might help with insurance covering costs and other benefits, as well as making some foods available to you that otherwise wouldn't be available.

Invest in doggy dental chews.

Dental chews are basically healthy treats for dogs. They're textured and ridged, stuff enough to scrape plaque off of teeth, but not so hard that they can cause damage to teeth or gums as your dog chews on them.

Sometimes, they also include ingredients that help fight mouth bacteria and ward off tooth decay.

Dental chews aren't a replacement for tooth brushing, but they're a good supplement, and if your dog really doesn't want to have anything to do with a toothbrush, they can be better than nothing.

Give your dog a chew toy.

Chew toys aren't just for enrichment and entertainment; they're also a way your dog can chew on something that not only doesn't contribute to plaque formation but helps get rid of it.

Chew toys of various sorts, including plastic, rubber, nylon, and even rawhide, can help keep your pooch entertained and bust some of the plaque that builds up over time. Rotate through different kinds of chew toys so they always have something fun and new to play with.

Consider powders and sprays.

For dogs that are extremely averse to any kind of dental hygiene, you can try powders and sprays.

Sprays are spritzes you can either spray directly into your dog's mouth or onto something like a chew toy so that when they lick and chew on the toy, it gets into their mouth and on their teeth.

It's made of a bunch of different ingredients, but the most important are minor antibacterials that will kill mouth bacteria. The end result is less plaque build-up, better breath, and less tooth decay.

Powders, meanwhile, are similar, except they work in a different way. They're probiotics, which means they're made up of good, healthy bacteria.

You sprinkle some on your dog's food, and when they eat, the good bacteria eat some of the leftover bits of food that the bad bacteria normally would, out-competing the bad bacteria and preventing tooth decay.

Again, they aren't as effective as tooth brushing, but it's a good supplement, especially if you can't find or can't afford dental-friendly food.

There are also powders and drops that can be added to your dog's water dish to do the same thing. They're tasteless and odorless, but they help kill bad bacteria and keep your dog's mouth clean.

If all else fails, try dental wipes.

Dental wipes are basically cloths soaked in a dental-cleaning liquid. Instead of using a large and irritating toothbrush, you can wrap one around your finger and just use that to "brush" your dog's teeth.

They aren't as good as a brush at getting into all the little divots and nooks in a dog's mouth, but they're often more tolerable than a brush and can help you give your dog a brushing without using a brush or toothpaste.

Dog Dental Hygiene FAQ

Let's round things out with some common questions.

How often should a dog visit a doggy dentist?

Just like people, our pupper pals need to have dental exams and cleanings on a regular basis. Often, that should be about once every six months, just like it is for people. It can be part of a general vet check-up, or as a special doggy dental visit.

It's important to remember that a casual dental inspection can't catch everything and that a full, in-depth cleaning and examination requires general anesthesia.

Your vet will need to check for places where teeth touch a surface they shouldn't, where guns are inflamed or prone to bleeding, and where cavities may have formed under the gumline. They will also check the soft tissues and palate, tonsils, tongue, lips, and more.

What happens if your dog gets a cavity?

Cavities are actually a lot less common in dogs than in people. Usually, dogs end up with gum disease that, if it progresses, can damage the jawbone and the gums. Cavities are less common because of dog diets and how much more exposed their teeth tend to be.

There's a common misconception that dogs don't get dental care the way we do. In fact, if your dog has a cavity, they can get a filling just like we do; they can even get a full root canal and crown if necessary.

The downside is that it's usually quite expensive, so many people opt for having the tooth pulled instead. This can be fine for a single tooth, but over time, if your dog loses too many teeth, it can hinder their quality of life.

What dogs are most susceptible to tooth decay?

In broad strokes, the smaller a dog is, the more likely they are to have issues with tooth decay. There are two reasons for this. The first is that smaller breeds are just genetically a lot more likely to have issues than larger dogs.

The second is that their teeth are physically a lot smaller, so even a tiny spot of decay can cause more problems, whereas a larger dog has more leeway before it causes issues.

Are no-anesthetic dental visits viable?

Unfortunately, no. Some doggy dental clinics offer no-anesthetic cleanings and procedures, but these tend to be pretty traumatizing for our poor pup pals and can make it harder for you to take care of their teeth later. It's better to opt for the anesthetic when it's necessary.

Do you have any questions about maintaining your dog's dental hygiene, or was there anything I mentioned in this article that you'd like additional clarification on? If so, I'm always more than happy to help, so be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as I can!

Let's walk through the five main stages of kitten growth on their way to adulthood, with images to illustrate what they look like.

#1: Fresh, Newborn Kittens

First up, take a look at this image. These are two kittens carefully cradled in a towel, but if you didn't know what they were, you could easily be convinced they were any number of different kinds of animals.

Kittens at this stage of life are extremely vulnerable, which is why mother cats don't leave their side. Their eyes are closed, so they can't see anything around them. Their ears work, but they're folded over, and anyway, a kitten this young – only hours or a few days at most – is unlikely to know what any of those noises it hears mean.

Kittens of this age are completely helpless. They can't move, they can't walk, they generally can't even do more than make noises. They can't keep themselves warm and rely on cuddling with mama to transfer body heat. They're still figuring out how to digest food, and they need help to even eliminate waste.

When kittens are this young, they're spending the vast majority of their time sleeping, growing, and "waking up" to life. They can purr, and they can cry, and they can eat, and that's about it.

This is a very critical time for kittens. Mama needs to be in a comfortable place and attended to to ensure she has her own nutrients to produce milk for the kittens. The kittens seek out milk to eat when they aren't sleeping, and mama keeps them warm, grooms them, helps ensure they can eliminate, and protects them.

If left unattended, kittens of this age are extremely vulnerable and can pass away at any moment. If they get too cold or aren't fed, they can pass, or they can end up with poor growth or health issues as they get older. If you're caring for a kitten of this age – especially if mama didn't make it for one reason or another – you're going to be giving up sleep so you can attend to them because they aren't going to make it through the night on their own without assistance.

The biggest concerns at this stage

Kittens that are only a few hours or a few days old are extremely vulnerable, weak, and still developing. They don't do much more than sleep, externally, but they're very active internally, getting their organs sorted out, strengthening their tiny skeletons, growing muscles, and more.

Kittens at this age are very vulnerable to starvation, dehydration, and the cold. They need active care.

#2: Two-Week-Old Kittens

For number two, take a look at this picture. From one to about three weeks old, kittens are rapidly developing and starting to transform from helpless lumps of fur and hunger into living beings. They're still very dependent on mama, but they aren't quite as helpless. They can move a little and often love to pile together on top of one another in their litter so they can share body heat and enjoy their purring and socialization.

While they're starting to look and act more like kittens, they're still relatively helpless. They can move a little, but they're shaky and stumble around, wobble, and generally aren't confident in themselves. Most of their movement will be crawling around the pile with one another, or maneuvering to seek out mama for some more food. They still need to be eating regularly.

Physically, they're developing more. They're growing in size, though you can still easily hold them in one hand. Their ears are perking up, and they're opening their eyes so they can start to see the world around them.

One striking feature of kittens of this age is that their eyes are a clear, vibrant blue. This is because the cells that produce the pigment that will give them their final eye color aren't active yet and won't be for at least the first six or so weeks of the life of the kitten. As they age, their true eye color will fade in, and you'll be able to tell what kind of eyes they have by the time they're about two months old.

It can be pretty fun interacting with kittens of this age, as long as you're very careful and have permission from mama. Mama will be very defensive if she doesn't trust you, and with good reason: her babies still need her. But, the kittens are able to start wandering by the time they're two weeks and change, and while they're very wobbly, they may happily wobble their little ways over to you, especially if you're warm.

In some cases, if mama trusts you a lot, she may bring her babies to you for warmth and protection while she gets a spare moment to herself. It's quite adorable when it happens, but of course, you're then stuck being mama and protecting these kittens for however long you get to be their nest.

At this age, kittens can knead, though they can't really control their claws, so there's a bit of risk in letting them knead on your tender flesh. They will also hiss – or try to hiss, anyway – at anything unfamiliar and scary. You may notice that some kittens hiss more than others; the ones who don't hiss as much may just turn out to be the brave troublemakers of the family.

The biggest concerns at this stage

At this stage of development, the biggest concerns are feeding and getting into trouble. As kittens get more mobile but are still not very confident, they can run the risk of getting into places they shouldn't or trying to eat things they shouldn't. Most of the time, while they still need some active care, they'll stick close to mama – and mama will keep them close – so they'll be a little safer.

#3: Month-Old Kittens

Next up, we have an image like this, along with billions of other kitten pictures on the internet.

By the time a kitten is around a month old, they're starting to reach the point where they're active and developing their personalities. They're going to be more confident on their feet and won't have that kitten wobble. They won't exactly be jumping up on the couch, but they know their claws can help them climb, so they'll happily try to make their way up the furniture, the curtains, nearby pants, and other surfaces they can hook into.

They're also developing their voices more, their eyes are starting to turn the colors they'll be as adults, and they're going to be more curious. You can start to play with them with toys, they'll start to learn to pounce and play with each other, and they'll be learning behaviors from their mama like grooming.

At this age, you can start giving the kittens some "solid" food – that is, wet food. They still can't eat dry food, and their teeth are only just starting to come in, so they can't crunch through the harder kibble you give mama.

This is also when you can start providing a litter box for the kittens to use. They might not know what to do right away, but litter training should be done as early as feasible to engrain the habits in the cats as they age.

While caring for kittens at this age is no longer about around-the-clock care and feeding, it's still important to spend time and effort on it. This is the most important time for kitten socialization, with each other and with you. You want kittens to be accepting and sociable with other cats and with humans so they don't end up scaredy-cats. You'll get to see them develop their own personalities and preferences and can adapt your training to their little kitten minds.

The biggest concerns at this stage

At this point, kittens are starting to get rambunctious but don't have a good awareness of danger. They are also going to be vulnerable to illnesses. A surprising number of kittens at this age end up falling ill or ending up with an injury because they tried a jump they couldn't handle or a fellow littermate caught a claw in the wrong place at the wrong time. I've seen a few kittens lose eyes at this age, though they adapt quickly, and it doesn't seem to hinder their development all that much as they go.

#4: 1–3-Month-Old Kittens

After your kitten has reached a month old, they'll look a lot like this. They may be a little gangly, and they're rapidly growing during this period as they age into their adult size. They may look a little scruffy as their fur smooths out, and they'll definitely have a lot more energy and curiosity.

At this age, they can control their claws, they'll be working on finishing teething as their molars come in, and their mama will probably stop feeding them. This is when you transition to full wet food (and make sure to seek out a kitten formula to make sure they get all of their nutrients) and work more on litter training. You want to avoid dehydration, constipation, and other distress as much as possible.

Around six weeks is when you should start getting vaccines for your kittens. Vet trips to check up have been regular up to this point, so you should have a lot of guidance on how to proceed.

The biggest concerns at this stage

Curiosity can get the best of a kitten at this stage, and they can get into a lot of trouble. Most professional fosters set aside a dedicated kitten room with plenty of enrichment and, critically, nothing they can chew on or dig into that will hurt them. Illness is also a concern, which is why vaccinations are important.

#5: Full Kittenhood

At this point, kittens have aged into full cats. They aren't full sized yet, and they have a lot more energy than their older brethren, but they're still essentially cats. You can transition them fully to wet food and start introducing semi-dry food. You can work on more training, socialization, and more health checkups.

This is also around the age when foster kittens can start to be adopted. Unless kittens were born in your care, or you're a worker at a shelter or care facility, you probably won't encounter the earlier stages of kitten very often.

These are some of the most fun, rambunctious, playful, and entertaining cats you can encounter. They're also prone to getting into trouble, figuring out how to stake their territory, developing a social hierarchy amongst their litter or other household cats, and figuring out precisely how much respect they should be giving you. Training is in full force now, so make the most of it.

The biggest concerns at this stage

At this point, you need to do things like check for parasites, intercede in more serious cat fights, and get your fur babies fixed to prevent hormonal problems and unwanted additional kittens. Other than that, it's all about caring for them as you would any other cat.

Kitten Development FAQ

Time for some frequently asked questions!

How can you tell how old a kitten is?

Other than some signs, like their eyes being closed or blue, their ears being folded, or the confidence in their walk, it's a sliding scale. A kitten with slightly stunted growth might appear younger than it is. Of course, if you're encountering such a kitten and you don't know a specific age, it also kind of doesn't matter; you just need to get them the care they require to succeed in life.

When can you give kittens food?

Kittens start to wean off of their mother's milk around 3-4 weeks of age, and you can start supplementing their diet with some kitten-formulated wet food. After that, around two months is when you can start giving them semi-wet and dry food.

When should you vaccinate kittens?

Kitten vaccines start around 6-8 weeks old, though different vaccines have different schedules. Talk to your vet about a specific schedule and stick to it, and it will be easy to handle.

Do you have any other questions? Feel free to ask me below!

Fortunately, with modern technology, we have an option to help. GPS trackers are a great way to ensure that even the most adventurous pooch can be tracked down before something happens to them and brought home safely. They aren't quite as simple as they seem, though, so let's talk about them.

What are Dog GPS Trackers?

Some people, especially people who haven't had pets before, might think that the microchip implanted in our furry friends is a form of tracking. As we know, though, it isn't. A microchip is just a chip with an ID number on it; the ID can be looked up in a database, and that database stores information like your name and phone number. There's no way to track down where a pet is from their chip, but if a pet is found, their chip can be scanned, and your information can be used to find you.

Image source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/16176711@N02/53766536280

GPS trackers are different. A GPS tracker is a much larger device, usually attached to a collar. It can connect to a communications network (more on those later), and you can look up where the tracker currently is. That way, if your pooch gets out and goes on the run, you can load up an app and track them down.

There are several different kinds of GPS trackers, and they have some distinct pros and cons, so let's talk about them all.

What Are the Different Kinds of Dog GPS Tracker?

GPS trackers for dogs generally fall into one of three categories.

These include:

• Satellite Trackers
• Cellular Trackers
• Bluetooth Trackers

They function in different ways, so it's important to know which kind works best for your area.

Satellite GPS Trackers Explained

GPS is a fantastic technology, and it's one of the foundational pieces of technology that have been developed to power our entire society. These days, we often take it for granted that there's a planet-wide network of satellites that can pinpoint exactly where we are down to a few feet of accuracy.

Usually, sat-based trackers are very accurate and as close to real-time as possible. The downside is that they're generally larger and heavier and require a battery that has to be charged regularly. Because of this, they might not be suitable for smaller breeds and smaller dogs, and many people take them off when at home or to charge – which means if your dog escapes at that time, they aren't wearing the collar and can't be tracked.

Some modern satellite/GPS trackers are hybrids that roll in many of the same features as cellular trackers, which gives them even more precision. Many of them are also smaller because they're able to rely more on apps than on their own powered transceivers. In general, pure satellite trackers are most useful in areas where cell service is limited or unavailable, such as deep in the backcountry or wilderness.

Cellular GPS Trackers Explained

Cellular trackers are a lot like your cell phone, except without the ability to run apps, make phone calls, or really do anything your phone needs to do except connect to the cell service towers in your area. They use the same sort of SIM card as a phone and can connect to GPS satellite networks and cell phone towers to triangulate exactly where the chip (and, by extension, your dog) is.

If you've ever wondered how something like a Google Maps app on your phone knows where you are, it's the same as these kinds of trackers. Usually, you're always going to be within range of 3+ cell towers because we've constructed them all over the world to make cell phones useful anywhere. By measuring the amount of time it takes a signal to reach any given tower, a fairly exact location can be calculated.

Cell trackers are usually smaller and a little more passive than satellite trackers, but the biggest downside is that if you're in an area where cell service doesn't exist, these trackers won't exist either.

Bluetooth GPS Trackers Explained

Bluetooth and similar short-range trackers are a little different. These are a lot more like Tile trackers or Apple AirTags; they don't connect to an external network but rather to nearby cell phone devices. Apple relies on the number of people around the world who have iPhones to track AirTags, for example.

The downside here is that if there are no devices within range – and the range is very short – there can be no tracking. They also don't update very quickly, so if you get a location ping, it might be anywhere from five minutes to an hour old.

Since they're cheap, small, and don't require constant recharging, many people opt for these kinds of trackers, but they just aren't all that great. I wrote about them in detail here if you want to read a deeper analysis. For the most part, they aren't really even GPS, so I won't mention them for the rest of this post.

Other Kinds of Dog Trackers

There are a couple of other kinds of dog trackers you might see on the market.

One kind is a radio tracker. These are most commonly used for specific purposes, often hunting, where you're expected to be out in the wilderness and away from cell service. The collar component will have a full, powered radio transceiver, which broadcasts the location of the transceiver (and your dog) in a way that can be picked up by a radio you carry with you. You can use it to track and follow your dog through the wilderness. Since they're larger, heavier, and single-purpose, they aren't generally used for casual tracking purposes and are more for working dogs.

Another kind I have already mentioned is the hybrid tracker. These connect both to GPS signals and cell signals and use both kinds of information to provide more accurate, faster tracking. They're generally the best but can be more expensive than other kinds of trackers because they're the most recent iteration of the technology.

What Are the Benefits of Dog GPS Trackers?

The benefits of dog GPS tracking are obvious, really. You know where your dog is if they run off and escape! That's really all there is to it.

Instead of needing to run down the streets calling their name, leaving a shirt out on the porch, putting up flyers, and other tactics, all you need to do is load up an app, and you'll be able to track them down.

What Are the Drawbacks of Dog GPS Trackers?

With that much of a benefit, are there drawbacks to dog GPS trackers? Unfortunately, yes; otherwise, everyone would buy one as a matter of course, and we'd all have them.

First, they can be somewhat expensive. Some dog trackers are in the $20 to $50 range, but you can, if you want a very advanced and accurate device with advanced features, spend almost $1,000 on one. Full tracking systems from a big name like Garmin can be even more, though those are again meant for true professional use.

At the same time, many dog GPS trackers also require a subscription fee, just like you're paying for cell service on a phone. While a monthly fee might not be very high, it's still an ongoing cost, and if you feel like your pooch is never going to run off on you, you might be tempted not to keep it up, putting you in a vulnerable position.

Many GPS trackers, as I mentioned above, can be bulky or heavy. While they're still small and light enough that they won't cause a problem for a mid-sized breed, the smaller your dog is, the harder it is to manage. For the smallest breeds, you might even need a whole harness to carry it instead of putting it on a collar.

The cheaper a GPS tracker is, the more likely it will be to have a critical flaw as well. Most often, this means a shorter battery life, but it also might mean a lower range or less active response. Still, it's always better than nothing.

Is a Dog GPS Tracker Worthwhile?

This is a question only you can answer.

If your dog is well-trained in recall and even the most attractive distraction is easy to ignore when you call for them, then you usually won't need a GPS tracker. Similarly, if your pup doesn't seem tempted to run out and away and is content to hang around with you, there's no real need to worry about them.

On the other hand, if your dog likes to roam or if they've gotten lost before, a GPS collar can give you a ton of comfort and peace of mind. The expense is nothing compared to the emotional peace, right?

Dog GPS Tracker Frequently Asked Questions

Let's go over some of the frequently asked questions I get about dog GPS tracking.

Which kind of GPS tracker is the best?

The best tracker and the best tracker for you are probably different. The best trackers have multiple modes of tracking, come with handheld devices, don't rely on an app, and have real-time tracking. They're also very expensive, large, bulky, and meant for professional hunting, rescue, search, and other dogs. Most of us have no need for them.

The best trackers for typical home use are going to be hybrid trackers that can access cell networks and GPS signals. They don't need to be huge and elaborate or have multi-day battery life because you're likely only using them for an hour or three at a time when you take your dog out for a walk or go on a short trip.

Are Bluetooth trackers a viable option?

Almost always, probably not. Bluetooth trackers are good for wallets and other items that are likely to be lost in well-populated areas and, more importantly, aren't moving. Your dog might not be lost where people are around, and the delay on pinging home can mean it's frustratingly inaccurate to try to use them. If your pooch is skittish and flees from people, especially strangers, that makes it even less likely that these short-range devices are going to do you any good.

If you live in a rather densely packed area and can reasonably expect the right kind of phone to be within ten yards of your dog at all times, then sure, these can work. Otherwise, probably not.

What should you look for in a dog GPS tracker?

A lot depends on your needs, but consider these factors:

• Cost. The up-front cost and the over-time operating costs are both important.
• Size and weight. The larger and bulkier a tracker is, the more annoying it will be for your dog, and the more they might try to pull it off.
• Shape and form factor. A lot of modern dog GPS trackers are meant to sit flush with a collar and have a minimum amount of dangling or obstruction. This is primarily because dogs like to chew on things, and if they can reach and chew on a dangly tracker, they can destroy it. It can also get caught on the environment if your dog is lost.
• Reliability. I haven't done the work, so I can't tell you which brands are more reliable, but you'll probably want to read reviews and even something like a Consumer Reports testing report for the tracker you're considering before you invest.
• Accuracy. Some GPS trackers can track with more reliable accuracy or more real-time speed than others. You want one with low enough latency and high enough accuracy that you can use it to track down your pooch.

As long as you keep all of this in mind, you should be able to pick a GPS tracker that suits your needs.

If you have any other questions that I may have missed in this article, be sure to let me know in the comments section! I'd be more than happy to help you out however I can!

For longer trips, though, cats need to be cared for. You might be able to leave your fur baby with a friend or family member for a few weeks or months while you travel, but sometimes, that option just isn't available. If you're going abroad for a significant length of time – teaching ESL in another country, moving for a job, caring for family in another nation for an extended time, or whatever other reason brings you across the border – you may want to figure out how to bring your cat.

If you're looking for the same sort of information but for your dog instead, check out this guide I wrote. While a lot of the information is the same across both of these, there are some unique peculiarities between species you'll want to know.

Can You Travel Internationally with Your Cat?

This is a surprisingly tricky question to answer. The fact is, every country in the world is able to set its own rules and laws. Some of them don't let you travel to them at all, some prohibit bringing pets of any sort into the country, some have restrictions on the types and breeds of pets you can bring in, and some are completely open to any companion you're taking with you.

It's also important to keep in mind that coming back to the USA has its own requirements. Most of the time, if you have everything you need to travel out of the country, you'll have everything you need to come back, but you should still take the time to double-check before your return trip.

Can You Travel to Another Country with a FIV+ Cat?

FIV, or feline immunodeficiency virus, is generally more well-controlled than some other pet-borne diseases like rabies. As such, most countries don't restrict cats with FIV. You'll need to have an appropriate health certificate, vaccination records, and possibly lab test results, but you won't be outright prohibited, at least as far as I know. If you know of a country that does prohibit FIV+ cats, let me know in the comments!

One thing to keep in mind, though, is that FIV makes your cat more susceptible to infections and diseases, and when you travel, you risk picking up something that isn't local to you (obviously). The stress of a flight, the need to be shipped along with other animals, and the new germ profile of wherever you land might put your fur baby at risk. It's often a good idea to find a place for your FIV+ kitty to live back home while you travel, as much as you might want to bring them with you.

How Do You Find the Rules for International Travel with a Cat?

Every country is allowed to set its own rules for importing pets, which means you need to be able to find those rules so you can follow them. For example, you may need a valid international pet health certificate, you may need to apply to bring your cat with you in advance, and there may be specific limitations on certain kinds of pets. With cats, you're probably fine as far as breed restrictions go, though you may have issues if you have an exotic breed like a serval, caracal, or other larger semi-wild cat breeds. Dogs tend to have more breed-based travel restrictions than cats.

There are a few ways you can find the information necessary to travel with your cat to another country. One of the easiest is to find that country's embassy information. Most countries have a foreign embassy in Washington D.C. and have information on contacting them that is publicly available on this page. By calling, emailing, or otherwise reaching out to them, you can learn their restrictions on pets.

Another option is to visit the USDA's Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service page, which lists various countries and their pet travel requirements. There are also frequently websites for those individual country governments you can check as well.

What if you're traveling to multiple countries in a single trip?

If you plan to, for example, fly into a country in Southeast Asia and then travel throughout the region from country to country, staying in different places for just a month or two at a time, then you'll have to contend with a wide range of different regulations.

If you're traveling to one country and back, you only need to know that country's restrictions. If you're traveling between foreign nations before returning home, you'll need to know the restrictions on each nation. You don't want to get halfway through a trip and find one particular country that prohibits your cat from entering, right?

Sometimes, this is easy. The European Union largely has one set of codified rules for most of its member nations. Other countries stipulate their own rules, and it can be a mess to deal with. You also might have different restrictions depending on whether you're driving across the borders with your cat or flying internationally with your cat.

What Information and Supplies Do You Need to Travel Internationally with Your Cat?

There's a lot you'll need before you can travel to another country with your cat.

Get a USDA-Endorsed pet health certificate.

A pet health certificate is just a piece of paperwork that says your pet is in good health and is up to date on their vaccinations. Most of the time, your vet can give you this certificate quickly and easily.

A USDA-endorsed pet health certificate is a little more complicated. It's the same paperwork, but you can only get it from a USDA-endorsed veterinarian. It generally costs a fee to get your certificate endorsed. This certificate is frequently required as an internationally-recognized standard for validation.

Obviously, your cat needs to be in good health and updated on their vaccinations in order to get this certificate. The last thing you want is to commit an international crime by lying about your cat's health! Rabies vaccinations are extra important in particular, so make sure your cat is boosted as necessary before you travel.

The USDA has a whole page dedicated to this paperwork and an office you can call to ask any questions you may have, so check it out here.

Some places have alternative options you can investigate. For example, the EU has a Pet Passport system. It's rather similar to the USDA health certificate but is broadly recognized and available throughout the EU. If your trip involves numerous EU countries, getting one of these pet passports might be a good idea.

Get an ISO-certified microchip.

The International Organization for Standardization is the global organization responsible for setting standards for all sorts of things, including technology. Two standards – ISO 11784 and ISO 11785 – are relevant to microchips for pets. They outline things like how the chip needs to be made, and what kind of data, in what formats, it should contain.

You don't need to know what the standards are, but you probably do need to make sure your cat has an ISO-certified microchip. That way, if the worst happens and your fur baby escapes while you're traveling, local vets can scan for a valid chip with information they can read and can find you. Obviously, make sure it has relevant information on it that the vet can use to contact you.

There are a lot of quirks to how microchip numbers and standards are handled, and what databases they connect to, so you might want to familiarize yourself with them, or at least the type and brand of chip your cat has, before you travel.

Check applications, approvals, and timelines.

Some countries essentially let you bring a cat along and just review your documentation at customs. Others require advance approval and an application process you need to have submitted well in advance. This process can take months, so make sure you do your research well in advance of when you're planning to bring your cat to the country with you and have all of your paperwork squared away.

Are There Other Details to Know About Traveling Internationally with Your Cat?

Of course. There will always be more details, so I'll cover everything I can to try to help you travel more smoothly.

Make sure to scout your accommodations ahead of time. With dogs, you have to worry about things like dog parks nearby, how dog-friendly the local establishments are, and so on. Cats don't have the same needs, but you do need to make sure any place you're staying, for short term or long term, allows your cat. You don't want to show up at a hotel, condo, or apartment only to find your cat isn't allowed, right?

Have your accessories ready to go. There's a lot you might want to make sure you have to make travel a smoother experience.

• A sturdy, breathable carrier for your cat while they're being moved throughout airports, planes, and accommodations.
• A collar that is easy to remove for airport security if necessary and reliable enough to stay in place around an anxious kitty.
• A harness, for times when your cat needs to be out of the carrier but still controlled. Make sure you spend some time getting them used to it in advance!
• Folding or collapsible bowls for food and water. Especially for very long flights, you'll probably need to give your fur baby some nourishment.
• A portable litter box and sealable bags. You may not be able to dispose of your cat's waste on a plane, so some backup to secure it without making the flight unpleasant for everyone is a good idea.

Consider the availability of food and medicine. This is especially relevant if your cat is on a special diet for health reasons; you may not be able to find the right kinds of foods or even certain medications where you're traveling. Unfortunately, some places around the world don't give as much consideration or care to cats. You might also want to make sure you have a vet lined up in advance in case something happens. You want to know where to go in an emergency, after all.

Pay attention to the flight planning itself. I have a whole guide on flying with a cat, so check that out and plan ahead. Chances are, if your cat is too big, if you have more than one cat, or if you're on certain airlines, you may not be allowed to bring your cat with you in the cabin, and they may need to fly cargo. Make sure you're planning ahead!

One detail is that some vets might recommend anxiety medications before a flight, especially if it's a longer flight. However, some airlines might prohibit sedating or medicating a pet before a flight because it can become a health risk. Double-check the details.

Give them plenty of time to acclimate to their new environs. Cats are creatures of routine, habit, and stability. Once you arrive at your destination, they will probably find the smallest, darkest space they can to hide in for a while until they feel more comfortable. It can take them days or even weeks to get used to their new home, so make sure to give them that space and time.

If all goes well, you'll have a comforting friend in a new living situation, and you'll only need to repeat the process when you return. Hopefully, all goes well for you! If you have additional advice or perspective, or if you have questions I missed, let me know in the comments as well.

Cat grass is actually a treat for cats, but there's a lot to know about it, so let's give it a look!

What is Cat Grass?

Surprisingly enough, cat grass is exactly what it sounds like: it's grass. For cats!

No, seriously, that's pretty much all it is. There are a handful of different species of grass that have all been branded "cat grass" because it's not a species of grass; it's a category of product.

What makes it different from the grass you have outside? A lot of things, actually.

• The species. I said there are a handful of species of grass labeled cat grass, but the grass you have in your yard will probably be a different variety of grass, which is also probably quite regional to where you live.
• The consistency. Cat grass is a single pot with a single kind of grass in it. A yard is going to have a bunch of different kinds of plants, from clovers to flowers to weeds, and you never know what's safe and what isn't in that mix.
• The cleanliness. Cat grass grown on your own can be carefully controlled for what you put on it. Cat grass from a store likely only used some mild fertilizer, if anything, and is free from harmful pesticides and chemicals that your cat could ingest if they eat grass outside. Oops; spoilers for the purpose of cat grass there.

Cat grass is meant to be a safe way for a cat to indulge in certain urges, while getting some health benefits at the same time.

What Species is Cat Grass?

Cat grass can technically be any species of grass grown for use as a cat treat. Cat grass growers generally pick one of a few common grass species, however.

These species include:

• Arrhenatherum elatius, the oatgrass.
• Hordeum vulgare, the barley grass.
• Triticum aestivum, the wheatgrass.
• Lolium perenne, the ryegrass.

Sometimes, a packet of cat grass seeds might be a mixture of some or all of these rather than just one.

These are all generally known to be safe for cats to consume, and they're relatively fast and easy to grow without having to set up special care conditions. Cat grass can grow just fine with consistent watering and some light from a window, and you don't need much more than that.

What is Cat Grass Used For?

I already spoiled it up above, but it's basically just a treat for cats.

If you're wondering why grass, a plant, can be a treat for obligate carnivores (that is, meat-eaters), it's not actually something we know. There are some theories, though.

The biggest is just that cats were formerly wild animals, and wild animals need to stalk, hunt, and kill their prey to survive. Whether it's a lion hunting a wildebeest in the African savannahs or your neighbor's feral cat colony hunting the local population of songbirds, they pounce, they kill, and they eat what they kill.

Sometimes, a cat will take their prey back to where they live, to feed kittens (or to try to teach you how to hunt.) Other times, they just eat where they sit, if they feel comfortable enough in their position to do so.

Well, while a cat is chowing down on their prey right there in the grasslands or the yard, they aren't exactly being cautious with it. They're probably getting bits of grass in those bites, along with the meat of the creature they caught.

Over time, cats developed the habit of eating more grass after they ate their prey. As it turns out, evolutionarily speaking, cats that ate grass alongside their meals had less digestive upset, had an easier time coughing up hairballs and passing the little bones and hair and feathers caught in their systems, and were generally healthier. So, cats that ate grass passed that habit along, and now most cats have that urge to get a little grass in their diets.

What Are the Benefits of Cat Grass for Cats?

I already kind of mentioned some of these in that last paragraph, but let's go over them in a bit more detail.

Cat grass helps with digestion. This is especially true for cats that eat rodents or birds, because they're going to end up eating things like fur, feathers, and small bones that will otherwise mess with their digestive systems and need to be expelled. Cat grass helps handle these without causing more problems down the line.

Cat grass provides dietary fiber. Fiber is great for helping your fur baby absorb more water when they drink and for helping smooth out digestion in other ways. It's also very helpful for cats that are sick or have diarrhea, as it can help pull water out of their intestines and firm up their stool.

Cat grass contains trace vitamins and minerals. A variety of nutrients cats can use, including folic acid, vitamins A and D, and a handful of trace minerals, are all present in cat grass. Your cat can get what they need from the food you give them, but wild cats get some of it from grass as well, and the instinct to consume grass will stay even if your cat has robust food at home.

Cat grass can help soothe the stomach. Grass can also help steady your fur baby's stomach when they're eating, especially if they ate too fast and now they've got some tummy rumbles bothering them.

Cat grass might potentially help ease pain. Chlorophyll, the thing that makes plants green, has some antibiotic, anti-pain, and anti-inflammation properties. It's nowhere near strong enough to replace modern medicine, but it's something that can help a cat that just isn't feeling quite comfortable.

There's also some thinking that if a cat has internal parasites in the digestive system, like a tapeworm, the grass can actually wrap around and pull out that parasite. Again, it's not as valuable as an actual antiparasitic medication, but it's not nothing.

Other than the dietary and health benefits, there are a few behavioral benefits. Finding, playing with, and chewing on cat grass can be an enrichment activity, especially if you move where you keep the grass. Some people find that cats who eat cat grass have better breath. And, of course, if your cat is busy chewing on cat grass, they aren't eating the plants you want to keep around.

Is Cat Grass Safe for Cats?

Now we get to the biggest question: is cat grass even safe? After all, cats are prone to chew on all kinds of plants, including plants like the toxic houseplants I listed in this guide. So, if your cat can't instinctively know when a plant is safe or not, how do you know cat grass is safe?

Fortunately, the answer is yes.

Cat grass is a selection of grasses specifically chosen because they're fast-growing, hearty, can survive being chewed on, and are safe for cats to eat. It's a lot safer than any random house plants or, worse, the grass in your yard, which could have all sorts of chemicals on it, and you'd never know.

Just make sure to get your cat grass from a trustworthy source, or grow your own. It's quite easy to grow, even.

Are There Side Effects of Cat Grass?

Not really! If your cat eats way too much grass, then they might throw up some of it, but that's basically the worst that can happen.

How Can You Grow Your Own Cat Grass?

If you don't want to keep buying cat grass every few weeks when the current batch has been eaten down and dies, you'll want to get in the habit of growing your own. Fortunately, it's very simple. All you need is:

• Small pots, preferably durable, resilient pots that won't break if your cat knocks over a pot. Some people like heavy pots that can't be tipped over, and others resign themselves to cleaning up spilled dirt on occasion. It's up to you.
• Cat grass seeds, which can be bought at nearly any nursery or at any greenhouse online.
• Dirt. A generic seed starting blend is all you need, and you can buy large sacks of it for cheap.
• A spray bottle and a small watering can.
• A good source of light. If you don't have a convenient window to grow your cat grass, you'll want to invest in a small grow light.

To grow cat grass, fill a pot with soil and scatter some grass seeds across it. You don't need a ton, but you want enough to make the pot somewhat dense with plants. Cover the seeds in another quarter inch of soil and water it thoroughly. After this, keep the soil damp but not saturated. The seeds should sprout in around 3-7 days.

After that point, make sure they get bright light, and keep them misted with a spray bottle. Once the grass is around four inches tall, you can start giving it to your cat. Start new pots every couple of weeks, so you always have one ready to go; cat grass lasts for about two weeks before your cat will either have eaten it down or it will die back on its own.

Alternatively, you can check out some of our products:

• Cat Grass Growing Kit
• Cat Grass Growing Kit Plus
• Cat Grass Growing Kit Ultimate

These kits give you everything you need to grow grass, including pots, substrate, seeds, and a spray bottle, as well as instructions on how to grow the grass and when to give it to your fur baby. We make it easy for you!

Cat Grass FAQs

Now, let's answer some of the more common questions I've seen about cat grass. If you have one that I didn't cover above, feel free to ask it in the comments, and I'll get back to you!

Are cat grass and catnip the same thing?

Not at all! Catnip is distantly related to mint and contains a chemical called nepetalactone, which is the one that drives cats wild if they're receptive to it. I have a whole guide to catnip here if you're interested in learning more. Cat grass, meanwhile, is a cereal grain plant when it's still young. Wheat, barley, rye, and oats are all cat grasses. If those plants survived long enough to seed, you'd be able to harvest those grains!

Are there different kinds of cat grass?

Yes and no. While there are different species of grasses that are called cat grass, they're all more or less the same kind of thing. All cat grasses are cereal grain plants when they're young and tender enough for a cat to enjoy taking a nibble.

Is cat grass safe to give your cats?

Yes, assuming it's actually cat grass. This is why you need to buy it from a reputable seller or grow your own. If you're buying from someone you don't know or trust, you never know if the plants you grow are actually cat grass or if they're something else that could potentially be toxic.

Additionally, you need to make sure you aren't just letting your cat out to chew on your yard. You never know what kinds of parasites, insects, chemicals, or poisons in the soil can seep into or linger on the plants in your yard, and they can make your fur baby sick. Stick with controlled grass indoors, please!

Will cat grass help prevent your cats from chewing on other plants?

Possibly! Your cat is going to explore and chew on whatever they want, so the goal is to make sure the cat grass is easier and more accessible to them whenever they want to chew on some greenery. If they can wander to their favorite sunny windowsill and find some cat grass, they're a lot more likely to be content with it when the alternative is breaking into a closed room and finding a high shelf with your other plants.

Did I miss any questions you may have about cat grass? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you with an answer as soon as possible!

Whenever there's a funny "challenge" to feed a pet some strange food, though, I always ask myself: is this safe? Is it okay to feed a dog something like broccoli, or are there toxic compounds or chemicals that can aggravate them if they eat it?

Fortunately, with broccoli, there's good news. If you want to contribute to the growing pile of hilarious dogs confronting broccoli on the internet, you're safe to do so.

Is Broccoli Safe for Dogs?

The short answer is yes, broccoli is safe for dogs to consume.

It's safe both when it's raw and when it's cooked, too, so you don't need to worry about having to steam it up every time you want to give them a treat.

You might also discover that your dog likes cooked broccoli more than raw – or vice versa, and they like raw broccoli more than cooked. Just like people, dogs have different preferences, and cooked and raw broccoli have both different flavors and different textures.

Watch out, though; broccoli florets are made up of tons of little bits, and all of those bits can get everywhere if your pooch is a messy eater. You'll be cleaning up green stuff for ages.

There is a longer answer, though.

How Much Broccoli is Too Much for Dogs?

Unfortunately, broccoli does contain a particular chemical compound that is actually mildly toxic to dogs. It's called isothiocyanate, and it's common in all of the different kinds of brassica vegetables. In case you don't know, a lot of different edible vegetables are just various kinds of brassica we've bred over the millennia to be different species. Turnips, rutabagas, radishes, wasabi, horseradish, kohlrabi, kale, cabbage, bok choy, collards, watercress, arugula, mustard greens, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, and of course broccoli, are all brassicas.

Luckily, this chemical isn't going to kill a dog if they eat broccoli. It causes mild gastric upset and, in sufficient amounts, can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, and rarely, potentially severe side effects.

So, why do we say it's safe for dogs to eat broccoli?

You would have to be feeding your dog a lot of broccoli for this to be a problem. The American Kennel Club specifies that broccoli should be no more than 10% of their diet to stay safe; anything over 25% of their diet causes problems, and severe side effects are unlikely unless they're eating way more than that.

Why just 10% of their diet?

Using a percentage here is important because it's impossible to give a measurement in cups or grams. After all, if you feed two cups of broccoli to a mastiff, it's going to have a very different experience than if you feed two cups of broccoli to a chihuahua, right?

The AKC and other organizations tend to use percentages for these kinds of things when it's just a general recommendation for exactly this reason. It's just a way of saying keep intake down and don't make broccoli a key part of your dog's diet. You probably aren't going to be doing that anyway, but, you know, words of caution.

For more specific chemicals, medications, and the like, these organizations will instead use dosages per kilogram or pound of body weight to adjust for the size of the dog being treated. That's important for medications and compounds with a strong effect, but not so much for something like broccoli.

Is Broccoli Beneficial for Dogs?

Sort of. As a vegetable, broccoli is rich in dietary fiber and low in protein and fat. It's also high in vitamin C. On top of that, it has other vitamins – A, D, K, and more – as well as lutein, a beneficial nutrient for eyesight and heart health. These are nutrients that are beneficial to dogs just as much as they are to people, so it's not a bad thing for your dog to have some as a snack.

At the same time, the isothiocyanates can be detrimental in large amounts, and there's a lot in broccoli that isn't really important to a pooch. We tend to think of things like broccoli as healthy because they're healthy for people, but they aren't as great for dogs; they're just fine.

How to Prepare Broccoli for a Dog?

If you want to give your pup a snack with a little broccoli, you should make sure you're doing it right. There are four rules you absolutely have to follow; otherwise, you will put your pooch in grave danger!

Okay, well, it's not quite that scary. But it's still important!

Rule number one! Cut the broccoli into bite-sized pieces. Broccoli, especially if it's raw broccoli, is actually kind of tough. And you know dogs, they barely chew their food, and they'll snarf it right down if they get the chance. Put a bowl with a few broccoli florets on it in front of them, and if they like it, they'll start gulping. And then what? Then you have a dog choking on broccoli! Nobody wants that. So cut the broccoli small. As an added bonus, this also helps you keep track of how much you've given them.

Rule number two! Cook the broccoli first. This isn't actually that firm of a rule – some dogs can eat raw broccoli just fine – but it's also a way to help keep it safe. Cooked broccoli is softer and easier to chew, so it's much less likely to get stuck and become a choking hazard. It also holds together better and makes less of a mess when your fur baby starts going to town on it.

Cooking the broccoli is also important for food sanitization reasons. Unfortunately, food regulations are in a lull right now – you've probably noticed the seemingly weekly recalls for things like salmonella and listeria – and those bad bacteria can affect dogs, too. Cooking the broccoli makes it safer for both your consumption and your doggo's.

Rule number three! Start with a small amount until you know how your dog reacts. Some dogs won't like broccoli at all, and cooking up a bunch for them doesn't do you any good. Some dogs will love it, and if you're not careful, they'll try to get at every salad you make.

More importantly, though, some dogs will be more sensitive to isothiocyanates, so it takes a smaller amount of broccoli to cause them digestive upset. Give them no more than a floret or two (depending on the size of the dog) and watch them to see if they start to have digestive symptoms or signs of an allergic reaction. Allergies are very, very, very rare, so they shouldn't be a problem, but you still need to make sure the first time you give them any.

Finally, rule number four! Never, ever cook the broccoli with spices, seasonings, or anything else. That means if you're making a tasty broccoli dish for yourself, it's just for you, not for the puppy! Salt, garlic, onion, oregano, caraway, tarragon, and a bunch of other spices and herbs are bad for dogs – much worse than isothiocyanates – so you definitely don't want to put them on the broccoli you give to your pup.

Most of the time, you want to give your dog the florets of the broccoli and not the stems. The stems are tougher, harder to chew, and more likely to get stuck in the throat. If you chop them small and steam them well, you can give them the bits, and I know some people will even puree the broccoli stems for a liquid treat as well. Those are options, but if you want more whole vegetables, the florets are the way to go.

What Are the Side Effects of Giving a Dog Broccoli?

When you feed your dog some broccoli, you're probably going to be in for a slightly unpleasant time.

So, here's the thing: broccoli is healthy and tasty, a lot of dogs enjoy it, and it's safe if you give it to your pooch in moderation. But, it also contains some sulfur compounds and a lot of fiber, both of which combine in a dog's digestive system for one particular result.

You probably already know what I'm talking about, right? Stink bombs.

Broccoli, even small amounts of broccoli, can make your dog gassy. If your dog is already naturally gassy, they'll be even more gassy. Worse, broccoli farts are definitely unpleasant.

Some dogs might not be really affected by this. Others might be walking chemical weapons for the rest of the day. There's really no way to tell until you give them some and see how they react.

Truthfully, this is also something you might consider enough of an adverse side effect to stop you from giving them any more broccoli. It's not going to be truly harmful unless it's really bad, but even some bloating and gassiness can be unpleasant for your pooch, so think carefully if the funny videos or the quick treat is worth it.

Dogs Eating Broccoli FAQ

Let's wrap things up with a quick summary of some of the most common questions about dogs and broccoli.

Can dogs eat broccoli safely?

Yes, as long as they don't eat too much of it. Handing them a floret as a snack or for a funny video on TikTok is fine. Feeding them a vegan diet full of broccoli is not. You want to make sure it's a snack or a treat and not a significant portion of their diet.

How much broccoli is too much for a dog?

The AKC recommends no more than 10% of a dog's daily diet be broccoli. That's not much, but it can be more than you might think, depending on the size of your pooch. Either way, treat it as a snack or a treat, and you'll be fine.

What do you need to do to give your dog broccoli safely?

Start with a small portion to make sure they don't have a bad reaction. Make sure to cook it – usually by steaming it – with no added seasonings, not even salt. Cut it up into small bite-size portions for your pooch, and make sure to watch them in case they choke even on the little bits you give them.

Special note: when you cook broccoli for your fur baby, make sure to let it cool before you give it to them! You don't want to accidentally burn their mouths or throats, after all.

My dog likes frozen broccoli! What can I do to make it safer?

If your dog likes frozen broccoli but doesn't want to touch it if it's cooked, you can try cooking it and then freezing it. That way, it's still cooked, softer, smaller, and easier for them to digest once it thaws, but it's still frozen, so they can still enjoy it while it's cold.

Should I consult with my vet before giving my dog broccoli?

Probably. Your vet might have specific information for you or for your dog, or simply based on their own past experience. In general, they'll tell you the same things I've told you here, but they might have more specific information.

This is especially true if your dog has any ongoing health issues. For example, an elderly dog with some digestive problems in the evening might actually benefit from a little bit of a fiber snack like broccoli, while a puppy might not get much out of it. Other health issues can be affected by gas and bloating as well.

Have you ever given your pooch broccoli? Have you taken one of those funny internet videos? If they act funny around broccoli, I highly recommend it; having that video to laugh about later is great. Plus, I'd love to see it!

Try as we might, it's so often difficult to fully subdue the unpleasant odors that come with the litterbox. Fortunately, there are a few things you can try that you may not have thought of before, and might help do the job.

#1: Change the Litter

First up is the simplest possible solution: just go change the litter! When a litter box smells bad, it's a good indication that it's time to change it. Usually, you should be changing the litter in your cat's litter box at least twice a week. If you have more than one cat and they often use the same box, you'll need to change it even more often. (Of course, if you have more than one cat, you should have more than one litter box, too.)

Some litters, especially the clumping style, are meant to be scoopable to avoid litter waste. Instead of dumping out the whole box, you scoop the clumped-up nastiness, discard it, and then change the full thing every few weeks. If you use this kind of litter and your box still smells, it's definitely time to clean it out. In fact, you probably want to fully wash and sanitize the box as well as change the litter. It's a dirty job, but someone has to do it!

#2: Change the Litter

No, you're not experiencing déjà vu; this is the same headline. But, this time, I mean change the type of litter you're using. You might go from clumping to crystals, or from a natural sawdust or newspaper-style litter to clay litter, or something else. Check out my post, Clumps or Crystals: Which Cat Litter Type Works Best, for more information on the different kinds of litter.

There are generally two reasons why your litter might have poor odor control. One is that some kinds of litter just aren't meant for that. People use these kinds of litter more for the safety, ethics, or environmental concerns and to deal with the odor. But, if you can't handle the odor, you might need to switch to a litter with better odor control.

The other is if the litter is unpleasant for your fur baby in some way, and they're actually going outside or at the edge of the litter box. The odor might be coming from the outside or underneath the litter box, not inside it, but it can be hard to tell.

Either way, changing the type of litter you use might be a good solution.

#3: Put the Litter Box in an Enclosure

Another option is to put your litter box in some kind of enclosure. Litter boxes with lids, flaps, or even a simple curtain can serve two purposes. First, they help isolate the litter box from the rest of your house so the odors don't spread. Second, they help keep the litter box out of sight. Some people find it intensely unpleasant to see a litter box, so this can help.

This is another topic I've written about. Check out 5 Clever Ideas to Hide Your Cat's Litter Box in an Enclosure for more information.

Keep in mind that some cats really don't like having their litter box hidden in an enclosed space. They're comfortable in a small space, but they aren't comfortable with the enclosed smells, so this can increase the chance of litter issues if you don't keep it clean.

#4: Put the Litter Box in a Better Location

If you have the option, you might want to try putting the litter box in a different location. I know this isn't always possible if you live in a small apartment or small home, but if you have the space, finding a better place for it is a good option.

What is the right location? Generally, you want a well-ventilated location that is away from the living and dining spaces in your home. This way you aren't dealing with odors where you spend your time or where you cook and eat. Ventilation is especially important because it helps keep those odors from building up and concentrating.

If you have the opportunity, keeping a window cracked nearby or even installing a vent fan similar to a bathroom fan can help a lot.

#5: Change Your Cat's Diet

We are what we eat. Cat poo and cat pee both reflect what your fur baby is eating, and if their diet doesn't wholly agree with them, it can have an impact on the odors they leave behind.

Consider talking to your vet about dietary changes, especially if your cat has any health issues that could be affected by a change in diet.

#6: Change the Litter Box Itself

There are two reasons you want to change your litter box.

The first is that litter boxes wear down over time. When you scrub them clean, whatever you use to scrub will abrade the surface. Even if you're just hosing it down and you're not scrubbing it, your cat will dig and scratch to bury their waste, and their little claws can leave scratches on the surface of the box. Many litters can be very mildly abrasive, too, and can damage a box over time.

All of the little scratches and grooves in the box are places where bacteria can grow, and those bacteria cause the worst odors a litter box can produce. So, if your box doesn't seem to get clean and odor-free when you clean it, it might be time for a new one. Usually, the best practice is to get a new box every year.

The second reason is if there's an issue and your cat isn't behaving right in the box. For example, if they splash when they go and pee gets on the edges or over the side of the box, you might want a higher-sided box or a box with a lid. If your cat is larger, you might need a box with more surface area so they have room. Getting a box they find comfortable helps eliminate litter issues and keep odors down.

#7: Consider Toilet Training

Did you know that you can train a cat to use the toilet? It's true! There are "litter boxes" that sit over the toilet seat, so when your cat goes to do their business, it just falls through into the toilet and can be flushed easily.

Just make sure you never flush litter. Since litter is made to absorb liquid, it can very quickly clog up your pipes and cause all kinds of expensive plumbing problems.

This does only work if you have a cat that can take to the training, if you don't mind having to move the contraption when you need to go, and if you aren't bothered by seeing a full toilet when you walk in. It's definitely not a solution for everyone, but it's an option you can try.

#8: Try Outdoor Training

Another training-based option is to train your cat to go outside like a dog. You'll need to supervise them and make sure you have a place for them to go, but they can be trained to think of going outside as going to the litter box.

Just make sure this doesn't transition into just letting your cat go outside unsupervised. Outdoor cats suffer a lot in our world and are at risk from everything from cars to predators to diseases. It's just not healthy for them or for our environment.

#9: Check for Medical Issues

Obviously, no one wants to think that their fur baby is having a hard time. One of the difficult realities of being a cat parent is that cats really don't like to admit when they're feeling bad. They might be a little more standoffish, or they might go and hide themselves away, but it's only in times of real distress that they'll show signs.

That doesn't mean that you can't figure it out, though. You know what they do when they're happy and healthy, so if you notice behavioral changes, it might indicate that they're sick or in pain.

More importantly, litter box behavior and their leavings can be another sign. Extreme odor, diarrhea, and other problems – including missing the litter box entirely – can be signs of an illness or infection. It very well could be worth talking to your vet!

I don't have space here to go over everything, but fortunately, I wrote a whole guide for you to read. Cat Poop Issues: What is Normal, Constipation, Diarrhea, and More. Check it out, and let me know if you have any questions!

Cat Litter Odor Control FAQs

Now, let's answer any of the lingering questions you might have.

Why does cat litter smell so bad?

It's a bunch of different things. First, cat pee is just really intense, and ammonia – one of the primary byproducts of their diet – smells really, really strong and really, really bad to humans. It's just something we're very sensitive to because it's naturally dangerous to us. Think of it as a biological warning to stay away.

Especially foul smells might mean your cat needs a different diet, or you need a different litter, or even that you just need to change the litter more often.

How often should you clean your litter box?

As often as it needs it! If the box smells, clean it.

Depending on the kind of litter you use, you may need to scoop it daily and change it weekly, or scoop it every 2-3 days and change it every 2-3 weeks. Other litters need to be entirely replaced every day or two.

Cleaning the whole box itself should also be done at LEAST monthly, if not weekly. The longer you wait, the worse it will be when you need to clean it, and trust me, you want to make that job easier on yourself.

Should you use a deodorizer?

There are a lot of different products like Febreze and other odor-control sprays and chemicals that can help, but at a cost. The problem is, while they cover up litter box odors for you, the scent of the spray can be very strong and very irritating to your fur baby and might cause them to avoid the litter box. It's usually not worth it, in my experience.

Can baking soda help eliminate litter box odors?

Yes, but it's not necessarily as helpful as you think.

The best thing to do is put a small layer of baking soda in the bottom of the litter box before you fill it with litter. That way, anything that seeps down past the litter can be absorbed and deodorized by the baking soda. This needs to be replaced every time you replace your litter, and it might mean cleaning the box more often.

The other option is to leave an open box of baking soda near the litter box. This is a common technique, and it can work, but it's not necessarily as useful as you might hope. Plus, you risk a mess if your fur baby knocks it over, and if you're in a humid environment, it can absorb moisture from the air and stop working pretty quickly. Still, it might be worth a try.

So, what do you think? Have you tried any of the options above, and if so, how did they work for you? Do you have something to add that I forgot? Let me know in the comments! It's a problem we all have to deal with, after all, so the more we help each other out, the better off we'll all be.

I don't blame you! Packing away your fur baby and sending them on a plane without you is hugely stressful, and that's even before you read the horror stories.

The simplest alternative is to drive with your dog or dogs to your destination. It's easy to say that, though, and it can often be a lot harder in practice. It's one thing to drive for an hour or so to visit family across the state, but it's a whole other issue if you're trying to manage a cross-country trip. So, whether you're moving for a job or just going on a vacation and needing to bring your pups, how can you do it the right way?

How to Train a Dog to Enjoy the Car

The first and largest hurdle is training your fur baby to enjoy a car ride. Some dogs love it, but others don't, and the last thing you need is a dog with anxiety, nervous energy, or fear huddled in the back, whining for dozens of hours of driving.

The key, as it so often is with dogs, is proper training. Dogs that have anxiety or fear in a car are either very young puppies who aren't used to the noise, motion, and new experience, or are dogs that have been conditioned to find car rides unpleasant. A dog that only ever goes in a car when they're being abandoned at a shelter or taken for an invasive procedure at the vet is a dog that will definitely not enjoy the car.

If your furry friend is fine with the car, you can skip this part entirely.

Step 1: Figure out how averse your pooch is to the car.

The first thing you need to do is determine how averse your dog is to the car in general. If they're fine with short rides but get anxious on longer rides, you have a much easier job ahead of you than if they won't even get near the car in the first place.

Step 2: Work on accommodation.

Your goal, no matter how averse they are to the car, is to work on getting them more comfortable with it. As with most dog training, this just involves exposure and reward. Bring them to the point where they're comfortable, and then push them slightly further and reward them when they sit there. That might mean bringing them to sit next to the car, or sitting in the back seat when it's stationary, or taking them on a short trip around the block or to the local dog park.

Step 3: Extending the trip.

Depending on how long your trip is going to be, you may need to train your dog to be able to lie down and even sleep in the car for a longer journey. It's already stressful to stay on a highway for hours, but if your dog is anxious, fearful, or crying the whole way, it's going to be even worse. It also definitely helps if you can have someone along for the ride who can hang out and comfort your pooch, too.

Training this will generally involve going on longer and longer car rides. Even if all you're doing is driving circles around the city, there's no real way to acclimate a dog to a long ride other than simply taking them on a long ride.

Preventing Motion Sickness in Dogs

One of the biggest risks of a long car ride with a dog is motion sickness. This tends to impact puppies more often than adult dogs, but some dogs just don't have a good time in a car simply because of the motion, making them nauseous and upset. The same thing can happen to people, after all, so it's not surprising that it can happen to dogs.

If your fur baby gets motion sickness – especially if they vomit because of it – you'll need to do what you can to prevent it and prepare for the issues that occur if they do.

• Keep the temperature in the car on the cooler side. While you might end up a little chilly, it's easier for you to wear warmer clothing than it is for your dog to suppress their stomach.
• Make sure there's some air circulation. Depending on the kind of driving, you may be able to open a window, or you might need to turn the car HVAC on higher and aim it towards the back.
• Limit food and water before the trip if you can. For longer trips, you can't really avoid feeding and hydrating your pooch, but for mid-length journeys, you can make sure they go before you go and can delay feeding until you've reached your destination.
• Take your dog on a walk and play with them for a while, at least 20 minutes before your trip, so they're a little tuckered out and are more likely to stay calm or even nap.

You can also talk to your vet about anti-nausea, anti-anxiety, or motion sickness medications for dogs. Medications like Maropitant, anti-anxiety medications like alprazolam and trazodone, and even CBD tinctures may be viable options, but talk to your vet about it first.

Preparing for the Trip

When it's time to actually go on your trip, you need to make sure you have everything you're going to need.

The exact list can vary depending on whether you're moving or just going on vacation, but here's a decent checklist to get you started. If you can think of anything I forgot, let me know in the comments!

Travel Food and Water

For longer trips, there's a pretty good chance you're going to be stopping at just about every rest stop along the way, either to give your fur baby some food and water or to let them stretch their legs, do their business, and relax a bit from that particular leg of the journey.

Speaking of doing their business, you'll also want bags to clean up after them (most rest stops ask that you do this but don't provide their own bags the way a dog park might), wipes to clean up if there's a mess, and possibly even puppy pads for the car if there's no convenient place to stop and there's an emergency.

Pre-Trip Vet Checkups

One important thing to do before you embark on your trip is to take your fur babies to the vet to make sure they're in good health. You can talk to the vet about anxiety and motion sickness, as well as pain, general illness, and other considerations. Your vet will probably have some advice that can help, as well.

If you're moving and this is the last time you'll see that vet, you may also want to make sure you get physical copies of important paperwork, health certificates, vaccination records, and similar records. All of this should be available electronically at whatever other vet you pick at your destination, but having hard copies can smooth the way to setting up at your new location. If you're not moving, having copies of important documents like vaccination records can be good in case an incident happens, and you need to prove good health.

If you've been putting it off, this is also a good time to make sure they're up to date on their vaccinations and have a microchip with accurate information on it. The last thing you want is to lose your pup at a rest stop or overnight stay and have outdated information on that chip!

Plan Your Journey

For shorter trips, you might not have to stop overnight somewhere with your pooch. For longer trips, you might need accommodations that allow pets. Depending on the kind of trip you're planning, you may need to call a hotel ahead of time, or you might need to make sure your Airbnb or VRBO or whatever kind of short-term rental you pick allows them. Unexpected fees, cancellations, or denials can throw a huge wrench into your plans, so make sure to prepare ahead of time.

You'll also want to make sure you have all of the relevant supplies you'll need. Things like:

• Collars and tags, with spares, just in case.
• A leash or harness for whenever you need to bring your fur babies to unfamiliar places.
• Paperwork, medications, and grooming items to keep them comfortable and happy.
• Toys to keep them occupied and distracted as necessary.
• Food and treats for longer trips and stops. A water bowl is also helpful.
• A bed they're familiar with so they have a place to curl up and sleep.

Your exact list of items will depend on the kind of trip you're taking and where you're going to be staying, so customize it as necessary.

Extra Tips for a Smooth Road Trip with Dogs

Now, let's cover a handful of additional tips that can make your road trip smoother when you have a dog – or several dogs – to bring with you.

Bring a doggy first aid kit. Your human first aid kit – which you should also have in your vehicle at all times – can cover some basics, but a dog-focused kit can make sure you're prepared for anything. These kinds of kits can be found online for as little as $30, so it's easy to pick one up and keep it with you.

Consider a doggy car seat. These are raised, secure, and comfortable platforms your pooch can use to watch out the window without getting in the way, risking hitting buttons with their paws, or otherwise being a bother. They're also more comfortable than a normal car seat or the floor of the vehicle. If you buy these ahead of time, you can also make sure they smell like home and are more comforting for your fur babies.

Make sure to plan your route. The unexpected can always happen, from road delays and construction to accidents, so make sure you know where the rest stops are along your route and have some idea of where you can pull off the highway to a park or even just a fast-food place to get a break if an emergency happens. Similarly, make sure you know about pet-friendly lodging along the way.

Don't forget to leave time at these pit stops. You might only need a couple of minutes to hit a restroom and have a snack, but your fur baby will probably take a good deal longer to get comfortable enough to do their business. Make sure you aren't on a tight schedule that forces you to hurry this along.

Dogs in Cars FAQ

To wrap up, let's answer some of the most common questions about traveling with a dog or dogs, especially long distances.

Do dogs dislike car rides?

That depends a lot on the dog. Some dogs are perfectly fine or even excited to go on car rides, even longer trips. Others are initially excited but get tired or bored being cooped up in a vehicle for more than an hour. Others are fine for short trips but get motion-sick on longer trips. It really comes down to the individual.

How often should you stop for a break with a dog?

Generally, the average is every couple of hours, which is coincidentally often the distance between rest stops across America's highway system, though this does tend to vary regionally. If you have puppies or older dogs who may have incontinence or other issues, you'll need to stop more frequently.

Is it better to drive or to fly with a dog?

This depends on a lot of factors. Flying is a lot faster for long distances, but it can be more expensive. And if your fur baby is a larger breed, they'll need to fly through a pet cargo service and can't fly with you on a plane. Most dogs handle car rides a lot better than plane rides, though. In the end, it's up to you and what works best for your needs.

So, did I miss any important questions you may have about traveling in a car with your dog? If so, be sure to leave a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible with an answer!

At the same time, they're often something of a weight around your neck. How many times are plans canceled or rescheduled because of vet trips or unexpected canine injuries? How often do you have to adjust your choice of lodging or method of travel to bring your dog along? It's a fact of life that not everywhere allows dogs (other than service animals), so they can be a limiting factor as well as a joy.

So, if you need to travel long distances, and the only sensible way to do it is to fly, can you bring your dog? If so, how do you do it, and what do you need to keep in mind? Let's talk about flying with dogs and everything you need to know about it.

If you're looking to fly with a pet but you have a cat rather than a dog, I have a guide for that as well, which you can read here.

Can and Should You Fly with Your Dog?

First, let's answer two of the more obvious questions: can you fly with your dog, and more importantly, should you?

Can you fly with your dog?

The answer to whether or not you can fly with a dog is simple: probably. Maybe.

Different airlines have different pet policies, but most of them are going to be similar. They put limits on the size and weight of an animal that can be carried on the plane with you; otherwise, they may be stuck in a kennel and put in the cargo hold.

More importantly, these cargo hold spaces are broadly not available for most pet parents. You'll usually see a disclaimer somewhere on the airline websites that says the cargo spaces are only available for the pets of U.S. Military or State Department Foreign Service personnel. We regular people can't bring our pets in the cargo hold.

So, there is functionally a size and weight limit for the dogs you can bring with you on a flight. Lap dogs, terriers and chihuahuas and other small breeds, are fine. Larger dogs aren't going to fit in a kennel under a seat.

Note that certified service dogs are allowed on planes and don't need to be restrained to a kennel. This does require actual service dog training, though; the "emotional support animal" loophole has been closed due to abuse.

So, whether or not you can fly with a dog generally depends on whether your dog is small enough for the flight. Now, for the related question: should you fly with a dog?

Should you fly with your dog?

This is a harder question to answer.

Flying is a hassle. Flights can be canceled, there are delays, there are stresses, and planes are a notorious haven for illnesses. They're stressful and unpleasant for most people. So, how do you think your dog is going to feel, being restrained in a relatively small kennel and trapped under a seat for the duration of a flight? You can't pull them out (except maybe to take them to the bathroom mid-flight), so they're in an even more cramped position than you are.

The truth is, if you can avoid flying with a dog, it's usually better to do so. Yes, driving across the country is a much, much longer (and frequently more expensive) journey, but there's beauty and adventure to be found along the way. More importantly, it's a lot safer and more flexible for you and your pooch.

How Much Does Flying with a Dog Cost?

Each airline will have its own pet policies, so make sure you double-check with your choice of airline well in advance.

Also, make 100% certain that you've purchased your pet ticket ahead of time and confirmed availability. There's pretty much zero chance that you can show up with a dog in place of your carry-on and still be let on the plane.

Most airlines have a few limitations on pets on flights. The size is the biggest one, since a carrier needs to fit under a seat, which is a very limited amount of space. They also tend to limit how many pets can be on any given flight. Age limits are also in play, and pets will generally need to be at least two months old to fly. This is primarily for the health of the animals, but also for the comfort of other passengers.

The actual cost varies, but is likely in the $125-$150 range. Southwest is $125 each way for a flight, United is $150 plus an additional $125 for any layover over four hours long, and American is $150 per carrier. This is pretty typical of the major airlines.

Finally, you're often restricted to just the continental USA. Only certain airlines will allow pets on international flights, and certain countries will have very restrictive laws about importing pets, so keep it in mind.

What Can You Do to Make Flying with a Dog Easier?

Flying is going to be stressful and irritating in the best circumstances, and trying to fly with a dog, especially long distance, is going to be even worse. I'm not saying this to scare you; I just want you to have realistic expectations. Prepare for the worst, and if everything works out, you'll have a better-than-expected experience.

One of the most important things you need to do is crate-train your pupper. Crate training should be started early, and you want your furry baby to be comfortable staying in their crate for a long period of time. If they get antsy, nervous, or risk an accident when they're stuck, you're going to have a miserable time. Just imagine having to sit on a plane for hours while your poor baby is crying at your feet, and you can't do anything to help.

Similarly, you want to make sure they're potty trained. If your fur baby is going to be stuck on this plane for an extended period, you want to avoid any accidents that can make the flight unpleasant for everyone. Make sure you have puppy pads (and backup pads), as well as wipes and other items to clean up if an accident does happen, as well.

It can often be a good idea to limit food (but not water) in the morning before a flight. That way, your fur baby doesn't have anything in their system that will need to come out. You don't want to starve them, of course, and they still need to be hydrated, but solid food should be limited.

Make sure they go before you put them in the carrier for the flight, as well. Some airports will have a dedicated space for dogs to do their business; others will just require you to make do with the usual human facilities. This is extremely regional and depends on the airport, so just do the best you can.

It's also a good idea to bring your dog to the vet for a thorough check-up before you plan to fly. You may need to discuss possible health conditions and how a flight might affect them, or you might need an updated list of vaccinations and medications. If you're flying to certain destinations or internationally, you may also need an updated health certificate based on the destination's regulations.

What About Dog Airlines?

There's another option we haven't mentioned yet, which is dog-focused airlines like Bark Air and K9 Jets. These are dedicated charter airlines made for pet parents who want to fly with a dog that otherwise won't be able to fly in the cabin because of their size and who might have anxiety flying in a cargo hold. They're also for people who want to fly to destinations that they normally can't, like across the ocean (Bark Air, for example, offers flights to London and Paris, and K9 offers a variety of international destinations).

These are luxury travel options that allow your dog to roam the cabin, have a wide range of services to keep your dogs happy and healthy while flying, and have vets on every flight to make sure nothing can go wrong. So, what's the problem?

The biggest issue with these services is the price. As private, charter flights, these start in the $6,000 per seat range. They're also quite limited in capacity and destinations. If you want to fly across the sea, or from New York to California, you can probably do it; otherwise, it's going to take more expense and effort to find an option that works for you.

Flying with a Dog FAQ

Let's run down some of the fast-answer questions you may have about flying with a dog.

Should you sedate your dog for the flight?

Generally, no. If your dog is a nervous pooch who has trouble with new experiences and will be frightened, risk an accident, or constantly make noise for the whole flight, you might want to reconsider flying. Most airlines have policies that reflect the American Veterinary Medical Association's advice, which is not to sedate pets for a flight.

Because of things like changing air pressure, the stress of a flight, and the lack of available veterinary care, sedation poses very serious risks to health, and if an emergency happens mid-flight, there's very little you can do about it. Leave the sedation at home!

Are there breed restrictions for flying with a dog?

Yes.

The two main restrictions are based on size and facial structure. Size is simple; if your dog can't fit comfortably in a carrier under a seat, they can't fly with you. Facial structure is a little different. Many airlines prohibit even small dogs if they're a snub-nosed breed like a Boston terrier, a pug, or a bulldog. This is because the changes in air pressure and air quality on a plane can make it more difficult for these pets to breathe, and again, there are no emergency pet facilities on a plane to address a problem if one arises mid-flight.

Do any airlines offer cargo shipping for a dog?

Yes. Several airlines, like Alaska and American, offer services such as PetEmbark. These services are essentially like putting your dog in the mail; they'll be loaded onto a plane that is specially-designed to fly animals, has a trained vet along for the ride, and allows larger dogs.

The drawback here is that only certain routes, certain destinations, and certain flights allow this, and the chances are you won't be on the same flight. You will likely either need a friend at home to check them in after you've already flown to your destination, or a friend at your destination to receive them while you fly in yourself. It's difficult to coordinate, but sometimes, it's the only viable option.

Are there other non-flight options available?

If you don't want to drive and you don't want to fly, there may be some additional options. For example, some people will take a cruise that allows dogs to travel from one place to the next. This obviously only works if you're traveling between destinations where a cruise will stop, but if so, it can be a surprisingly viable option and fun to boot.

Alternatively, there are pet taxi services that will drive your dog, possibly with hand-offs for different legs of the journey. These can be effective but difficult to organize, so your mileage may vary. Still, they can work better than having to do a lengthy cross-country drive yourself!

Have you ever had to fly with a pooch? Did you have a surprisingly good – or distressingly bad – experience? Whichever one it was, let me know your story in the comments! You can help others avoid the worst options or point out something we didn't think of along the way. I look forward to hearing your story!

Sometimes, though, you aren't able to drive where you're going. Maybe it's far enough away that the only reasonable way to travel is by plane. Maybe you're crossing an ocean or flying to an island. Whatever the case may be, you need to hop on a plane, and to bring your furry feline friend with you, you need to bring them on the plane as well.

How do you fly with a cat, what do you need to know, and what should you bring? Let's talk about it!

Can You Fly with a Cat?

Let's start with the beginning: can you even fly with a cat?

The answer depends on the airline. Some airlines allow pets, while others do not. Some also place more restrictions on them than others. Here are a few of the rules from the most common airlines.

Southwest Airlines Pet Policies

Dogs and cats need to be at least 8 weeks old to travel, and they must be vaccinated. Small animals like cats also need to be kept in an appropriate pet carrier as a carry-on. The pet fare is $125 each way, per carrier, for mainland USA flights, though this can be subject to change. Each ticketed passenger is allowed one pet carrier, and each pet carrier can have at most two of the same species of cat or dog.

United Airlines Pet Policies

Pets can't be checked as cargo (which sounds crazy, but United used to have a pet cargo program that they have since discontinued outside of active-duty military members), and you can bring up to two pets per person; however, if you're bringing two pets, you need two tickets. Pet carriers need to be small enough to fit under the seat in front of you. Pet fare is $150 for each way and an additional $125 for each 4+ hour layover.

American Airlines Pet Policies

Pets can be transported as carry-on or as cargo through their cargo pet service, which is restricted to active-duty military. Carry-on is limited to cats and small dogs, with age, size, and destination requirements. Pet fares are $150 per pet carrier.

Most other airlines are similar. Cats need to be old enough to travel, vaccinated, and in a cat carrier that can fit under the seats. A cat carrier isn't taking the place of your carry-on (you still have space in the overhead bin), but if you have more than one cat to bring, you may need more than one ticket. Pet fares are around $125-150 for most airlines as well.

What to Know About Flying with Cats

There are a few key things to know about trying to fly with a cat.

The first and most important is that there are strict limitations on how many animals can be on any given flight. The airlines set these limits, and sometimes, they can fill up very quickly. For example, many flights only allow one pet carrier in a first-class cabin and up to five in a business-class cabin.

Even though there's technically plenty of space, they don't want to deal with too many animals on a flight, especially if those animals get irate at smelling, seeing, and hearing each other. It can cause a lot of problems and make a flight even more miserable than it already is for many people (and kitties).

Another thing to know is that the rules that allowed emotional service animals have been reversed. The loophole that let an emotional service animal fly was widely abused – and you probably saw stories about people bringing all kinds of animals, from fish to alligators to chickens, causing all kinds of problems – so the Department of Transportation removed that loophole.

Always make sure to triple-check with your airline that you have purchased fare for your kitty well in advance, and make sure you're aware of the size and space restrictions on the carrier you're bringing them in.

Do Cats Hate Flying?

Some do, and some don't. Just like with long car rides, some cats are adventurous and don't mind purring the time away while they doze in their carrier. Others are very sensitive to the noises, the people, the smells, the pressure changes, the vibrations, and everything else involved in plane travel and are going to be miserable the whole time.

Before flying with a cat, see if you can take them on a longer car ride to see how they feel about being cooped up for a while. Plane rides are generally shorter than road trips, but they can still prove irritating to many felines.

In particular, watch for the signs of kitty anxiety. If your fur baby is drooling, whining, excessively grooming themselves, or otherwise showing signs of stress, a flight might not be the best idea.

Of course, if you have to get from point A to point B, and you have to bring your kitty with you, it's probably better to take them on a miserable two-hour flight than an equally miserable ten-hour drive, right?

Tips for Making a Flight with a Cat Easier

What can you do to make your flight easier when you're bringing your fuzzy feline along?

Be very careful with sedation. When you're stuck on an airplane, if something goes wrong, you don't have any help. If your cat has bad anxiety, your vet can prescribe a mild sedative, but even then, be cautious about how you use it.

Know local laws and regulations. This is especially relevant for international flights. For example, the UK, by law, doesn't allow animals in the cabin either going to or coming from the country. Meanwhile, many US carriers don't check animals into their cargo anymore because of the risks and hassle involved.

Be prepared for security. United States airline security is largely theater, but that doesn't mean they can't make your life miserable if they want to. It's likely that you will need to extricate your fur baby from their carrier for the X-ray process and put them back in when it's done, which means you need to prepare for that. Make sure you have a good harness and that your fur baby is trained for carriers; otherwise, you're going to have a huge hassle on your hands.

Remember, too, that you generally can't use fast-track lines, online check-in, and other services when you have a pet with you. You'll need to go the long way around.

Consider using a soft carrier. Many airlines allow either a hard-shelled or a soft-shelled carrier as long as it fits under the seat in front of you. Soft-shelled carriers are more flexible and give your fur baby more room to maneuver and get comfortable, so they are often the better option.

Make the carrier a pleasant place to be. Since your fur baby is going to be spending a significant amount of time in the carrier on the flight, you want ways for them to be distracted. Something that smells like you and like home as padding, a toy to help distract them (preferably without noises that can disrupt other passengers), and other sources of comfort can help a lot.

Don't feed your cat before the flight. The absolute last thing anyone on a flight wants to deal with is the scent of a cat doing their business, whether out of fear, out of anxiety, or just out of natural digestion. If it happens, it happens, but you can minimize the chances by not feeding your furry friend before the flight and making sure they use their litter box before you board. Ideally, you can find an out-of-the-way corner of the airport and let your cat do their business in a portable, disposable litter box to get as close to the time of flight as possible.

Giving your cat some water is still important, though. Dehydration is much worse than a little hunger.

Pack your Cat Flight Essentials

Being prepared for anything is the key to a successful flight.

Here are some of the things you should have packed away.

• Cat treats. While you don't want to feed your fur baby on the flight, giving them the occasional treat can help keep them calm.
• A harness and leash, to make sure that your fur baby is secure and can't escape if you have to remove them from their carrier at any point.
• Spare clips and connectors. The last thing you want is for a broken zipper, a stuck carabiner, or another broken clasp to cause disruptions.
• Puppy pads to line the bottom of the carrier, in case your fur baby loses control of their bowels while they're anxious or scared in transit or if they vomit out of anxiety.
• Wipes and other supplies in case your cat does their business and you need to haul the carrier to the in-flight bathroom to clean up.
• A portable litter box. Especially for flights that last more than a couple of hours, it can be a good idea to bring a portable litter box with you so you can bring your cat to the bathroom, set it up, let them go, and ensure they're more comfortable for the remainder of the flight.

Finally, don't forget all of the relevant paperwork to prove things like ownership, recent vaccination status, and proof that you paid your pet fare in advance.

Flying with Cats FAQs

Now, let's wrap up by answering some of the more common questions we receive.

What is the most cat-friendly airline?

This can depend on where you're flying, but for domestic flights, the top three are generally Alaska Airlines, Frontier Airlines, and Delta Air Lines. United and JetBlue have the worst ratings, largely based on limitations and pricing.

Are service animals allowed on flights outside of a carrier?

Yes.

Can cats be considered service animals?

No. A lot of people were abusing the "emotional support animal" designation, which could be purchased for a completely untrained animal with no oversight. The Department of Transportation issued a new ruling that allows airlines to no longer recognize emotional support animals. Only true, trained service animals are allowed outside of carriers, and they need to be certified. Cats generally can't be service animals.

How much does it cost to bring a cat on a flight?

The basic fee ranges from about $100 to $175, depending on the airline you're taking, the destination, and other factors. Sometimes, if you're hopping on and off a plane for a layover, you may end up with a secondary fee for the second leg of the journey.

That's not the only cost, either. You will probably have to pay other fees, such as:

• The cost of a carrier that fits under an airplane seat, which may be smaller than your cat's normal carrier. Many brands make airline-focused carriers that can temporarily attach to a suitcase or be worn as a backpack for added comfort.
• The cost of any medications or other methods for soothing your fur baby while they're stressed from the flight and travel.
• A possible checked bag fee added on top of your normal fee if you don't have space for a full carry-on anymore, though this can vary from airline to airline.

Overall, you should anticipate somewhere in the ballpark of $400 for everything you'll need, plus more for multi-leg flights.

Are there alternatives to bringing your cat on a flight?

While you can bring your cat on a road trip instead, it's much longer and more stressful than a comparatively shorter flight. Unfortunately, sometimes there's just no viable option to flying with a feline. As stressful as it is and as miserable as it can be for you, your fur baby, other passengers, and everyone else, it's still the best option. At least it's over relatively quickly!

Do you have any other questions about traveling with your cat on a plane? If so, be sure to leave those in the comments section! I'd be more than happy to help you out however I can!

Effective crate training isn't all that difficult. In fact, I've written a whole guide to effective dog crate training, and it doesn't take very long at all! But there are always going to be issues along the way.

One common issue is puppies that can't seem to stop chewing on their beds. Crates are harsh and uncomfortable when they're empty, so it's good practice to put a bed in there for your pup to enjoy while they're sleeping. But some dogs just can't stop themselves from chewing their bed apart.

This isn't just a matter of annoyance when you find bits of fluff and foam on the floor in the morning and the expense of buying a new bed for them whenever they destroy the old one. It can also be a health hazard! Dog beds are meant to be safe for a dog to sleep on, but not for them to eat. Those bits of foam, fabric, fiber, and more can all cause problems if they swallow any of it,

Why Do Puppies Eat Their Beds?

When you get your puppy a new bed, they're probably going to be excited. They hop on and off of it, they roll on it, they curl up and doze, and yes, they probably give it a nibble or two. A lot of this is just expressing their excitement, but it can calm down once they're used to the bed.

Sometimes, though, that chewing never stops, and they just keep on biting, ripping, tearing, pulling, and generally destroying that fancy new bed. But why?

It's part of their nesting instinct.

First of all, it might be part of their overall nesting instinct. You might not think of dogs as having nests, but they actually do, though we don't usually call them nests. You've heard of a "wolf den" before, right? It's the same concept: a dog or a set of dogs working to make a specific place where they spend their time as comfortable as possible.

Dogs "nest" in a bunch of different ways. They dig at the ground to create small hollows where they can lay comfortably. They arrange padding and other materials to create a softer bed for themselves. They can even drag and wrap things like fabric around themselves, which is why some dogs will curl up in a blanket to nap.

With a new bed, your dog is probably trying to break it down into a more comfortable form for themselves. That might mean scratching at the bottom, chewing at the rim, or just pulling it apart to make it into a form they find cozier and more comfortable.

While all dogs can express a nesting instinct, it's strongest and most common with pregnant mother dogs, especially in the week or so before they're due. It's an important part of creating shelter and comfort for their pups.

It's part of marking their territory.

Another reason a dog might chew at their crate bed is as a way to mark their space. This can be especially common in dogs that spent some time as strays and in dogs that have spent a lot of time with other dogs and want to carve out a space of their own.

A huge part of how dogs identify territory is through scent. Moreover, dogs have scent glands in their paws, and they can identify the unique elements of their breath and other smells they produce. All of this means that when they're chewing, scratching, pawing, and otherwise damaging their bed, it's really more about infusing that bed with their scent.

This allows your dog to create a space fully their own. You might notice that the chewing behavior is worse with a brand new bed (which smells like a factory, like off-gassing foam, and other smells) or in the immediate hours and days after you wash it.

It's a nervous tic.

Another common reason why puppies chew at their beds is as part of separation anxiety. This is especially common if you notice that they only seem to chew up their beds when you're asleep or away from home at work, and they're stuck in their crate. It can also be related to night crying.

Puppies have a lot of energy, and they're forming a lot of attachments and bonds, especially when they're young. They want to spend time with you since you're their parent figure and packmate. When you're not around, they may be worried, scared, nervous, or anxious. With very little space to maneuver and very little to do, they might start expressing that nervousness by chewing on their bed.

In a way, it's kind of the puppy equivalent of human fidgeting. They have nervous energy and anxiety, and they find a behavior that soothes it.

Some dogs that have separation anxiety develop it due to a lack of socialization. Others have it because of a quality of their breed (especially small breeds), and still others are simply too young to feel secure on their own just yet.

This can also be caused through an excess of energy. We often describe this as having "nervous energy" but it can manifest in any dog that is cooped up too much and doesn't have an outlet for all of their energy.

Your poor pooch is teething.

Another common reason why your puppy is chewing on their bed is because they're chewing on everything. When your pup's teeth are coming in, it's going to be sore and painful, just like it is for human children. In order to help their teeth come in and alleviate some of that pain, they chew on anything they can wrap their lips around. During the day, that usually means chewing on toys, though they may also chew on pillows, table legs, sticks, stray toes, and whatever else they can find.

At night, in their crate, they don't have access to much else, so they chew on what's available: the bars of the crate, the bed, any toys you put in, and so on. Usually, this is a temporary behavior once their mouth stops aching, though.

Other reasons your dog might chew:

There are a handful of other reasons your dog might be chewing on their bed in their crate.

They might just be curious. Some dogs have an innate drive to "try it and see what happens" and that can manifest in the form of chewing on things. This tends to abate as they get older and know more about how the world works.

Another reason is hunger. A hungry dog might be attempting to forage around the space they can access, and if they're in their crate, that means in their bedding. This can be especially true if you ever give them treats in bed or if they bring food there, so their bed has lingering scents of food.

It can also be due to illness. A dog that is sick or in pain – even if it's just the equivalent of a puppy cold – might be seeking something to soothe themselves, and chewing can be an outlet, even if it's not a very effective one.

How Not to Stop a Dog from Chewing Their Bed Apart

Before getting into specific ways that you can address bed-chewing behavior, let's talk about the one thing you don't want to do: engage with them positively.

This is a tricky line to walk. You can't punish your dog for chewing on their bed because they won't associate the behaviors, so they won't learn. You need to address the behavior, but without giving them the kind of attention they might be seeking. They want to engage with you and have fun with you, and if they find that you're normally distracted (or not home) but you give them attention when they chew, well, they're going to chew more.

Basically, you just always need to be aware of how your interactions with your dog are going to be perceived and what behaviors you're reinforcing.

One other thing is that you don't want to take away their bed, at least not for long. If they're chewing on it when you're around, you can take it away, but if you're going to be putting them in their crate overnight, they need something comfortable. You don't want to make the crate an unpleasant place to be; otherwise, you damage crate training routines!

How to Stop a Dog from Chewing Their Bed

Now, let's talk about what you might be able to do to stop your pooch from chewing apart their brand-new bed. You have a couple of options.

Start with redirection training.

The first thing you want to do is start with redirection training. Redirection training is fairly simple. When you see your dog start to chew on their bed, scold them a little (just say "no!") and then hand them a more appropriate chew toy. When they chew on the toy instead of the bed, praise and reward them.

You can also do other minor forms of training. When you see them resting on their bed without chewing on it, praise them. When you see them chew on a chew toy rather than their bed, praise them. Simple reinforcement is all you really need.

Address other causes of chewing.

If your pooch is sore, sick, anxious, nervous, or scared, you can address these issues in various ways. Calming scents, CBD tinctures, and your own presence can help alleviate the stress of being alone. That's why I spent so much space on why your pup is chewing, so you can figure out the reason and address it directly.

Sometimes, too, all it takes is time. As your puppy gets older and calms down, they'll be less likely to chew their bedding into shreds.

Puppy Crate Bed Chewing FAQ

Now, let's answer some of the most common questions you might have about puppies who chew up their beds.

Why do dogs chew on their beds?

There are a bunch of different reasons why your pooch might be chewing at their bed.

Here are some of the most common reasons:

• It's part of their nesting instinct to create a safe and comfortable place to sleep.
• It's a scent-marking technique to help them firmly claim the space as their own.
• They have separation anxiety and are chewing as an outlet for their feelings.
• They're teething to relieve the pain of new teeth coming in.
• They're sick and are seeking some form of relief.
• They're hungry and are seeking something to eat in the middle of the night.

There are other possible reasons as well, but again, these are the most common.

What are some ways you can stop your dog from chewing their bed?

You have a few options here.

Some options include:

• Implementing redirection training to get them to chew a toy instead.
• Using a protective cover to make it unpleasant to chew.
• Making sure to tire out your dog and address anxiety issues.

Essentially, you want to figure out why they're chewing and get rid of those issues.

What should you avoid?

For the most part, you want to avoid anything that punishes your pup. Don't take away their bed for long periods of time or make their crate an uncomfortable place to be.

Don't attempt to punish them directly, either. Most forms of punishment don't work because the association doesn't exist, so it just adds stress and makes behavioral issues worse.

Should you try a chew-proof dog bed?

This one is up to you. Chew-proof dog beds advertise being extremely durable, so even if your pooch chews at them for hours, they won't rip them apart. They tend to be pretty expensive, though.

It's often better to address the behavior, however, because if they're prone to destructive chewing, it won't stop at the bed.

Have you ever had to stop your furry friend from chewing up their crate pad? If so, what did you do to stop it? Let me know in the comments section! I'd love to hear all your stories!

So, say you've decided to adopt a dog from your local shelter or even snagged one that someone abandoned or one that has been living feral in your neighborhood and was finally wrangled.

These are some of the most challenging dogs to socialize and train, but also some of the most rewarding, most loving, and most emotionally engaging relationships you can form with a pup. Taking a dog from a disadvantaged and difficult scenario, and bringing them to a state of love, contentment, and happiness, is so incredibly rewarding it's difficult to describe.

Among the many behavioral issues you'll need to work on with your new rescue is housebreaking, also known as housetraining.

Step 1: Assess Your Dog's Current Abilities

Different rescue dogs have different amounts of socialization and training, depending on where they came from. Some of them might be almost entirely housetrained already, and just need a reminder of their training. Others, especially feral dogs, may never have had that training at all.

So, your first step is to determine how much they can do. Do they know any commands? Do they naturally "hold it" when they're in the house? Do they mark their territory?

You should establish a few baseline pieces of data.

Data to keep track of with your pup

Consider writing down information like:

• How long your dog goes before they need to go.
• How often they have "accidents" when you're not around.
• If they can sleep through the night in their crate without incident.
• When and where accidents happen, if they happen.

You'll also want to perform a basic assessment in conjunction with a vet.

• Are they fixed? An intact pup is more likely to have issues and less training.
• Do they have any illnesses? Things like worms and infections can cause bowel issues.
• Are they on any medications that might have incontinence as a side effect?

All of this gives you a baseline you can use to know what's normal and what isn't for your new rescue pup.

Step 2: Monitor and Control Your Dog's Diet

The second major step is to make sure you're feeding your new pup a relatively bland and inoffensive diet.

I'm not saying you need to go full upset stomach chicken-and-rice meals. Those are useful for a sick pup, but they aren't always a healthy baseline. But, a diet made to be as easy to digest and as simple as possible will help you identify if they have any food allergies or sensitivities.

The last thing you need if you're trying to train your dog to have better bowel control is feeding them something that makes them need to go all the time, right?

Make sure you're also controlling:

• The amount of food you give them, so they aren't over-eating and causing problems.
• The speed at which they eat, so they don't eat too fast and give themselves an upset tummy.
• The timing of when they eat, so you have a consistent pattern built into each day.

Feeding your dog a bland diet at the same time every day gives you a strong foundation you can use to build upon over time.

Step 3: Take the First Steps Slowly

Even if your rescue dog was housetrained originally, there's a chance that they've lost their control and habits over time.

This can happen for a few different reasons.

• They've been stuck in a rescue kennel for too long and haven't been taken out often enough, causing accidents.
• They were abandoned or on their own for long enough that no reinforcement kept them from abandoning their training, so they just do their own thing now.
• They're wild enough that the odors of a new environment and potentially other pets in the home drive them to mark their areas.

So, when you adopt a new pup, you need to figure out if they had training initially or if you are going to be starting from scratch.

Step 4: Set the Ground Rules

Before you can embark on potty training a rescue dog, you need to set the ground rules. And no, I don't mean sitting your pup down and telling them how it's going to be. I mean understanding yourself how you're going to have to handle the training.

Consistency is key.

Everything needs to be done at the same time each day, on the same schedule. If you can't get the breaks off work to come home and do it, you need someone else who can do it for you. If it means setting an alarm for every couple of hours throughout the night, so be it.

When I say everything, I do actually mean everything. Get up at the same time each day and take them out. Feed them at the same time each day. Take them on walks at the same time each day. Consistency is absolutely critical for successful potty training, especially if you want to do it as quickly as possible.

Use praise.

A key part of training any dog is praising them when they do the behavior you want them to do. It's called positive reinforcement, and it's really the only way you can successfully train an animal. Primarily, that means praising them when they do their doo outside appropriately.

This may also mean praise indoors if you see them go to mark, and they stop. It's all about rewarding them for their actions in the right environment.

Add a verbal component.

While it's often not strictly necessary for a dog to have a command to do their business once their training is in place, it can be helpful to reinforce what you want them to do in a given environment.

This is helpful, especially if you have different kinds of outings. Taking them out to play, taking them out for recall training, taking them out for an exercise walk; these can all have different purposes, and you may not want them to potty just anywhere. So, saying "go potty" when you want them to potty – and saying it again when they're actually doing it – helps build that association.

Use confinement.

It can feel bad, but any time you aren't around to directly supervise your dog and make sure you're enforcing the rules of potty training, they need to be confined to a crate or other small, enclosed space.

One fact about dogs is that, unless it's an extreme emergency, they will be very averse to relieving themselves too close to where they are spending their time. Fear, anxiety, and illness can all cause it, but if they're just not trained, they won't do it because it's unpleasant.

Step 5: Putting it All Together

Once you have all of the ground rules down, for yourself and your dog, all you need to do is put it together.

While regulating their time and behavior, watch what they do. Praise them when they do what you want them to do. Don't punish them when they act up – it doesn't work and it can make behaviors, anxiety, and fear worse.

If there's an accident, clean it up. It's going to happen, and that's unfortunate, but there's not a lot you can do about it after it happens. Again, punishment doesn't work. You just need to figure out why it happened and adjust your training to account for it.

That might mean taking your pup out more often, changing their diet or medication, or working with them to feel safer so they don't fear the unknown as much. Whatever the case may be, it takes time and dedication, but it can be done.

Housebreaking a Rescue Dog FAQ

Now, let's go over some of the questions that come up when talking about housebreaking a rescue dog.

Can you housetrain a rescue dog?

Of course! Rescue dogs are almost never a "lost cause," but you need to be prepared for accidents, smelly cleanups, and a lot more difficulty in training than you would have with a brand-new puppy.

Once you get the ball rolling, though, it can be extremely rewarding to see an unruly dog start to take commands and learn to be a better companion. Just like any other difficult but ultimately satisfying endeavor, it takes time and dedication, but you can definitely do it if you put your mind to it.

Is there a difference between housebreaking and housetraining?

Not really!

Some people claim that there is a difference and that housetraining still includes things like using a puppy pad, whereas housebreaking means never going inside the house at all. Other people don't recognize the difference.

Personally, I'm pretty sure the only reason we use housetraining instead of housebreaking is the connotations. "Breaking" is such an aggressive word, isn't it? It implies things like punishment, animal abuse, and a broken pup, and even if the results are very different, it's not the kind of impression we want to give as animal lovers.

How important is diet to potty training?

Somewhat! Diet on its own isn't going to have a huge impact, and as long as their diet is healthy enough that it's not causing problems, you're fine.

The issue comes when your rescue dog is eating something that upsets their stomach and leads to unpleasant side effects and accidents.

What are the most common reasons for a potty accident?

There are a handful of reasons why your pup might be relieving themselves where they shouldn't.

You'll want to consider the context and situation when an accident happens.

• Lack of training. A completely untrained dog won't have the foundation to know where they shouldn't go and might just find a corner in the living room as good as a corner of the yard.
• Submission. Some dogs are habitually submissive and may release their bladder a bit when they get too excited or as a form of submission to another dog they're greeting. It's only urine, and it's not much, but it's still a habit to fix.
• Territorial marking. When your pup leaves urine on the furniture, door frames, or anywhere around the home – and sometimes feces, as well – it's because they're scent-marking their territory.
• Fear and anxiety. Separation anxiety, loud noises, and threats – perceived or otherwise – can lead your dog to lose bowel control.

Depending on the cause of the accident, you may need to focus your training on different ways to solve the issue.

I just took my dog out, but they had an accident as soon as I got back inside!

This isn't a question, but that's okay. This happens a lot if you're trying to rush the process. Dogs often need to spend a bit of time investigating the area to make sure it feels safe for them to go. If you're impatient – and especially if you're trying to use a command and they're ignoring you – it feels like they don't need to go and are just messing around.

Then, you bring them back inside, where they know it's safe, and they immediately find a place to go.

The key is two things. First, make sure you give them plenty of experiences in your yard to make sure they feel safe there. Second, give them plenty of time to investigate before they do their deed. They probably do have to go; they just aren't quite comfortable yet.

So, there you have it: a guide to housetraining a rescue dog. Do you have any questions? If so, leave them in the comments, and I might be able to add them to the FAQ! Meanwhile, do you have any experience housetraining a rescue dog? Do you have tips or advice I haven't covered? Let me know!

So, what are the stages of life for a cat? No, I'm not talking about their development from potat to big long (from Mary Cagle's adorable art). I'm talking about age-related divisions in the life cycle, according to the American Animal Hospital Association and the American Association of Feline Practitioners. These organizations review the general behaviors, concerns, and lives of cats across all breeds and geographic areas and put out advice to vets and cat parents on how to handle their cats at each stage of life.

Let's talk about the four stages of life as a cat and what they mean to you as a cat parent!

The First Stage: Kitten

The first stage is the kitten stage, and it lasts from the time the kitten is born to the time they turn one year old. Kitten is the stage of development with the most physical change, going from mewling, barely mobile creatures that haven't even opened their eyes to rambunctious balls of fluff that get into anything and everything to small versions of what they'll be as adults. In one year, it's roughly equivalent to the first ten years of human development, from helpless baby to wandering toddler to curious child to pre-teen youth.

As a kitten, vet checkups should be as frequent as necessary for the first few weeks and months of their life for vaccinations, health examinations, genetic testing, and spaying/neutering.

Throughout this stage, you should keep an eye on your kitty and look for the subtle signs of illness, stress, and pain, like aversion to touch, hiding, shying away from contact, lack of appetite, and more. You'll want to get a good grasp of their normal behavior and personality so you can form a good mental concept of how they act and develop an awareness of when they aren't acting normal.

At the kitten stage, you'll also want to get started on training.

• Train them to be more comfortable with a carrier so it's not a fight every time you need to take them to the vet.
• Train them to allow basic grooming as necessary, such as tooth and foot inspections, so they're used to you handling them.
• Train them with scratching etiquette so they can scratch the things you have for them to scratch, and keep their paws off the furniture, drapes, and doorframes.
• Train yourself on how to properly discipline a cat without causing problems down the line.

You'll also want to socialize them so they don't react with fear, anxiety, and stress every time someone new visits the house.

The kitten stage is also when you should be scheduling routine checkups with your vet and getting any genetic testing done to identify if they may have genetic diseases or susceptibility to certain ailments, and you'll want to microchip them. Yes, even indoor-only cats should be chipped, so if they ever escape, it's easy to contact you.

If you're a new pet parent, you may also want to give some thought to things like pet insurance and even pet life insurance. Taking care of a cat can be expensive, especially if they're a breed with a genetic predisposition to certain diseases that aren't fatal but require ongoing treatment.

Keeping care of food and feeding is important in this stage, as is litter box training. Make sure you have all of the necessary supplies, including brushes, nail trimmers, litter boxes and litter, food and water bowls, food, flea treatments, beds, scratching posts or boxes, toys, and more. While you're certainly going to be buying things for your fur baby all the time, you need a certain minimum amount of stuff to get off on the right foot.

There will be a lot of learning, a lot of settling in, a lot of adjustment and change, and a lot of scares during this time. Hopefully, it will all be healthy and entertaining, but in case things go poorly, it happens all the time. Your vet knows how to handle pretty much any kitten issue that could possibly come up, and in all but the most extreme cases, there will be a positive outcome. The kitten stage is a time of love, growth, and exploration, and it will be a joy, even if it has ups and downs.

The Second Stage: Young Adult

The young adult stage is the second stage of cat development. It's the longest of the cat life stages and broadly encompasses the time between turning one year old and turning six years old. This is the entire stretch of time between becoming a teenager in human years, all the way up to hitting a milestone age like 40. It's a long time for a cat!

During this time, your fur baby will be slowing down a bit and settling into their routine. They'll still be playful and active, but they aren't going to be quite as crazy, and since they'll have done a lot of exploration already – and ideally, you've trained them effectively – you won't have to worry as much about them doing things like getting stuck in the walls, chewing on household products, or running headlong into the furniture.

Young adult cats generally need annual vet checkups, but you otherwise only need to bring them in if there's something wrong. By this point, you should be pretty familiar with their behavior and personality and can tell more clearly when something is wrong. You still need to keep up with some training and reinforcement and make sure not to make mistakes that lead to anti-training, especially around litter box issues.

At this point, your biggest concerns are generally going to be things like vomiting and diarrhea, hairballs, and changes in food, litter, and grooming habits. These are your main signs that something could be going wrong, and they're things to mention to your vet if they occur.

Your vet checkups during this time will primarily focus on overall health, as well as monitoring primary organs like the heart and lungs, as well as oral health. You also will want to monitor nutrition and food intake to help ensure your cat stays a healthy weight.

You will probably need to adjust the various cat products you own throughout this time. Things like litter boxes may need to be changed to larger boxes to accommodate a larger cat, and you may need additional litter boxes for a multi-cat household. The same goes for things like the litter itself, for toys, for beds, and more.

This is also the age when certain early-onset diseases can start to become apparent, especially during the later years of the young adult stage. The two most common issues tend to be dental problems and obesity, though, so keep a careful eye on those.

The Third Stage: Mature Adult

The third stage of the development of a cat is the mature adult stage. This is when they're firmly settled in as a mature, older cat. They're starting to slow down and are generally going to prefer spending time snuggling, napping in the sun, or hanging out and spending time with you instead of playing or running to and fro, but they generally still have some energy and will always have their moments.

This stage lasts from the time the cat turns 7 to about the time they turn 10. It's more or less equivalent to middle age for people, ranging from our 40-60-year age spans.

During this time, a generally healthy cat will still only need vet checkups once a year. You'll still need to keep an eye on them for changes in behavior and signs of illness, but by the time you're seven years deep into being a cat parent, you're going to have a pretty good grasp on what to watch for.

At this age, you want to keep an eye on changes in appetite, hydration, vocalization, evening activity, mobility, grooming, and litter box habits. You'll also want to watch for signs of vision issues, as this is the age when some cats start to lose their sight.

Vets will be checking more on abdominal, muscle, and bone health at this age. They'll check for heart and lung health, of course, but they'll also be checking thyroid levels, kidney function, eye performance, and tooth health if your cat still has otherwise healthy teeth until this point. The older they get, the more the vet will check for signs of joint pain and arthritis.

Frequently, this is the age where things like kidney issues come forward, which usually require careful dietary management. Be prepared to shift to a healthier (and more expensive) food and to have a medication you'll need to start giving your fur baby. If they start showing signs of mobility issues and pain, you may also need to make adjustments to make it easier for them to access their litter box and their bed.

When petting and grooming your cat, be sure to keep an eye out for lumps and other signs of disease. Cats can develop all manner of tumors, many of which are benign but may still need to be removed so they don't put pressure on a joint, but some of which can be cancerous. It's a terrible and terrifying thing to experience, but it's the reality for cats as they get older.

The Fourth Stage: Senior

The fourth and final primary stage of life for a cat is the senior cat stage. During this time, your cat will be showing their age. Any age over 10 is a good age for a cat to reach, though, of course, some cats have lived much longer than that. This is equivalent to older middle age for humans, all the way to our senior and twilight years.

In the senior years, your cat is going to be slowing down. They'll be less mobile, less agile, and more prone to sleeping the day away rather than playing, though their playful side will still be apparent when they're in the mood.

Vet checkups during this time should be at least once every six months, and if your cat has any known issues, it may need to be every three months or even more frequently.

As they get older, your cat will likely start to develop some kind of issue. They may get less effective at grooming, so you may need to pick up the slack. They may develop a neurological disorder. They may lose their teeth or their eyesight. You may find signs of cancer, and they may need surgeries to remove tumors, chemotherapy to help, or even amputation in the case of a joint or limb-based tumor that can't be safely removed otherwise.

You will almost definitely need to adjust your home's layout for the comfort and accessibility needs of your cat, and you'll probably need to watch for litter box issues simply out of incontinence.

For some cats, you may even notice a behavioral regression. Some cats seem to return to the kitten stage, even if their bodies don't really support it. This is a cognitive issue, and while it's not immediately harmful, it can indicate other issues that will need support.

It's harder to generalize across the senior years for a cat because some cats might pass away relatively early, while others seem to hang on like nothing in the world can possibly disturb them. The best we can do as cat parents is provide the best, most comfortable lives we can and enjoy our moments with them.

So, now that this article is all wrapped up, I'd like to turn to you, the readers! Do you have any memorable stories about your furry little babies that you'd like to share? I'd absolutely love to hear them, so be sure to share your stories in the comments section!

There are ways to train your fur baby to not do those things, but it's just that: training. For example, I wrote a whole post on how you can get them to stop scratching your good furniture, which you can read here.

One of the most common pieces of advice for dissuading a cat from some behavior or another is to reach for a spray bottle and give them a quick spritz. The idea is that it's unpleasant enough that your cat will learn after it happens a few times that they shouldn't be doing that behavior.

The trouble is, this is a pretty terrible way to train a cat. Here are five reasons why you absolutely should ditch the spray bottle and try a different form of training.

#5: It's Stressful

One of the biggest reasons why you should ditch the spray bottle is that it's a very stressful experience. Most cats aren't exactly fond of being wet, especially unexpectedly.

Outdoor cats caught in the rain often find trees, bushes, or porches to camp out on or under until the rain lets up, and cats inside are going to avoid the shower or bath whenever they can. Some may like the faucet, but only on their own terms and as a source of water to drink, not just to dip their face in.

Remember, too, that a sudden spray from a spray bottle isn't silent. Often, there's a sort of hissing noise attached to it. It's not just about the noise, though; it's about the noise coming from you. Do you like being hissed at? Neither do they.

Often, the spray bottle is just a nasty surprise and a stressful event. Your cat is likely to stop their behavior, sure, but they'll also probably flee, hide, and might not come back out for hours at a time.

Stress is also terrible for other reasons. A stressed cat is more likely to have anxiety issues. They might lash out more or generally be less sociable. They may start to have litter box issues. Increased aggression isn't unusual either.

There are also long-term health impacts to chronic stress, as well, like the increased risk of urinary tract infections and other issues.

#4: It Might Not Be Appropriate

Another reason why the spray bottle isn't a good idea is that you might be misusing it.

Now, far be it from me to tell you how to train your cat or what behaviors you should and shouldn't tolerate. Your living situation, your cat's personality, and the unique issues you face are all specific to you, and you have to make the best decisions for you, your fur baby, and your family.

But, there are a lot of people who try to use some kind of discipline (technically called "positive punishment") like a spray bottle to dissuade a cat from things you can never train them to stop doing. Behaviors such as:

• Hissing. Cats hiss when they're afraid or stressed, and spraying them with a spray bottle is just going to make it worse and further associate you with a source of stress.
• Scratching. There is no way to get a cat to not scratch. It's such a deeply ingrained instinctive behavior that even declawed cats will try it. You have to redirect scratching, not stop it entirely.
• Exploring. Yes, sometimes your cat gets up on furniture or in places they shouldn't be, and you want to dissuade that, but there are better ways to do it than trying to spray them down.

Often, this means you're punishing your cat for something they simply cannot help, a natural behavior and a reaction that you're only making worse.

If your cat is anxious, spraying them just makes them more anxious. If your cat is exploring, spraying them isn't going to get them to stop exploring, it's just going to mean they're damp while they do it.

#3: It Hurts Your Relationship

Perhaps the worst outcome of spraying your cat with a spray bottle is that they draw the wrong association.

They aren't necessarily recognizing that their behavior triggers the spray, especially if they can do the behavior and not get sprayed (for example, when you aren't home.)

No, what they're doing is associating an annoying and stressful behavior with you. They're only sprayed when you're around, right? What else could it be?

At first, you might not notice anything wrong. But then, maybe you notice that instead of curling up on your lap, they start to prefer to lay on the other side of the couch.

Maybe when you try to pet them, they're a little more standoffish. Maybe they're more defensive, and when you make a sudden noise or movement, it scares them more than it used to.

Over time, you eventually realize that they're avoiding you. They aren't enjoying your presence and comfort like they used to.

All you've done is added stress and strain to your bond with your fur baby, and taught them that you're not always safe and comfortable.

#2: It Creates an Aversion to Water

Most cats – though not all cats – dislike water as it is. They prefer to keep themselves clean and don't take kindly to puddles, baths, or other immersion in water.

If they slip and fall when you're in the bath, and they're trying to explore, you have a wet and panicking cat struggling to get out, and that can be dangerous for both of you.

When you make water a source of unpleasantness, though, you may be developing longer-term fears and aversions in your kitty. Maybe they will start avoiding the bathroom entirely.

Maybe they hate it when you water the houseplants, especially if you use a spray bottle to mist them. Maybe they start to run and hide when you do the dishes or take a shower. In the most extreme cases, they may even start to avoid their water dish.

#1: It Doesn't Work

So here's the kicker: even if all of these other drawbacks don't dissuade you, this one should. It just doesn't work!

For one thing, one of the biggest and most important factors in training is consistency. To successfully train a behavior, cat, dog, or any other animal, you need to be consistent with enforcement.

That means any time your cat does the behavior, you need to be there to redirect it or stop them and reward them for not performing that behavior.

So what happens if they do it at night when they're prowling in their little nocturnal lives, and you're asleep? What happens if they do it when you're at work, out grocery shopping, or just in another room watching TV? Nothing. That's why they tend to associate it more with you than with the behavior.

It's also possible that your cat won't care. Many people tell stories of trying to use a spray bottle to stop their cat from doing something destructive, and while it works the first few times, eventually, your kitty just realizes it's a little bit of water and nothing else.

At that point? It's no longer a punishment. Some cats even learn to enjoy it or make a game of it. They find being sprayed to be pleasant, actually, and so they start to intentionally seek out ways to get you to spray.

Honestly, this is the better outcome. You'd rather have your cat think of it as a fun game rather than associating you with something unpleasant and stressful. Either way, though, it's an association with you, not the behavior, so it's not really an effective way to train a cat.

What to Do Instead

Using a spray bottle was, for a long time, recommended as a way to dissuade a cat from a behavior, because it was a safer alternative than something worse, like swatting at your cat, scruffing them, or otherwise doing something that is even closer to abuse.

But, the more time passes, the more standards change, and these days even spraying a cat is viewed as abuse by some people.

The question is, what can you do instead? Obviously, your cat has some behaviors you want to dissuade, but if a spray bottle isn't the answer, what is?

First, figure out what is causing the behavior you want to stop. Some behaviors are natural, like exploration, jumping up onto high places, and scratching. There's no trigger for these, and because of that, they aren't behaviors you can stop.

Other behaviors, like hissing, swatting, intentional destruction, and similar actions, tend to have more specific triggers. Maybe an item they try to destroy is making a noise that bothers them, or maybe they're hissing because they're stressed and startled.

If the behavior is triggered by a specific stressor, your job is to remove that stressor. For example, maybe you have a plug-in air freshener that sprays the air every hour, and the noise it makes sounds like a hiss and stresses out your fur baby. Once you remove it, the behavior will stop.

If the behavior is one without a removable trigger, you can proceed with the next step. That step is to watch for signs the behavior is going to happen.

For example, if your cat loves to jump up onto the kitchen counters and you want to train them not to, watch for when they're perched and poised to jump.

This is where consistency comes into play. You need to be available to watch for any instance of the behavior happening, or make sure someone else is around to monitor for it, so that the right redirection can take place.

At this point, you redirect the behavior with a reward. If your cat is poised to jump up onto the counter, toss a treat behind them. They'll very likely be distracted and turn for the treat and will forget about jumping up.

Toys may also work, though we all know our fur babies often ignore toys if they aren't in the mood. That's why a small, high-value treat can be the better choice.

Now, this isn't easy, and you're going to need to keep at it for a good long while. Remember, too, that some behaviors will never go away.

You can't stop a cat from scratching any more than you can stop them from meowing, purring, or being fuzzy and adorable.

Remember, as with all animal training, you need to use positive reinforcement to redirect the behavior into something preferable. Punishment doesn't work and is often stressful, cruel, and even dangerous, depending on the kind of punishment.

You're distracting them and rewarding them for choosing not to do something they were about to do.

• Don't forget to provide alternatives to some behaviors. Your cat is going to scratch, so make sure they have a dedicated scratching surface to use instead of the furniture.
• Make sure to track down specific triggers causing stress and negative behaviors and remove them whenever possible.

It takes time, patience, and consistency, but it's the only real way to go about it. Plus, it maintains and even builds your bond with your beloved fur baby, and who doesn't want that?

Finally, if nothing you do seems to work and you can't get your cat to redirect their behaviors, can't identify triggers, and can't seem to figure out what's wrong, talk to a vet or cat behaviorist.

There may be something else going on, like a trigger they can hear, but you can't, a scent that bothers them, or even a medical issue. This is especially true if this is a behavior they didn't use to exhibit but started suddenly.

Have you ever dealt with a misbehaving feline and needed to get into redirection training? Tell me your story! I love hearing about your pets and their adventures in the comments.

What is the average lifespan for a domestic house cat? What factors influence it, and what can you expect?

The Broad Answer

First, let's start with the broadest answer.

The average lifespan for a domesticated house cat is 13-17 years.

If you adopt a newborn kitten around the same time you have a human child, they'll grow up together, and the cat will likely pass away sometime in their teenage years. This might be early and will probably be one of their earliest experiences with a significant loss, or it might be later when they're getting ready to move out of the house and onto college or a career.

While 13-17 years is a fairly broad range, it also doesn't tell the whole story.

What's the Longest a Cat Can Live?

With immaculate genetics, consistent vet care, and a little luck, a cat can live quite a bit longer than what the average implies.

The oldest cat on record, and current holder of the world record, was a cat named Crème Puff. Crème Puff was born in 1967 and died in 2005, making her 38 years old when she died. That's over twice the average! What helped Crème Puff live so long? Likely a combination of care, activity, and genetics.

Crème Puff is an outlier, of course; her exceptional lifespan is something to be envied and enjoyed, and not something to base your own expectations on. Most cats won't make it nearly that long; a cat living to be 20 is already exceptional in a lot of cases.

Is There a Difference Between Indoor and Outdoor Cats?

This is a big one. You may have heard that cats should be kept indoors for a bunch of different reasons, and one of the big ones is that indoor cats just plain live longer.

That's true.

Outdoor cats, left unsupervised, live half as long: 7-9 years.

Now, that's for feral cats that are born, raised, and left to their own devices to scrounge for whatever food they can catch, suffer whatever illnesses they develop, heal (or don't) from injuries they receive, and generally have no one to care for them.

Unfortunately, even cared-for outdoor cats can have shorter lifespans for a bunch of different reasons.

• Catching diseases and parasites from the outdoors, even when a vet treats them, puts stress on the body, can damage organs, and can lead to other problems down the line.
• Spending time outdoors can lead to conflicts with other animals, including other cats, dogs, coyotes, other predators, and native wildlife, all of which can lead to injuries.
• Cats outdoors don't have the kind of supervision over their behavior or diets they have indoors, and they can eat something that has been poisoned or is toxic to them.
• In areas where summers are extremely hot and winters extremely cold, the weather can be a significant factor as well.
• Cars are an omnipresent danger, and thousands of cats are killed by vehicles every year.
• In rare and unfortunate cases, cat-hating people in your community might abuse or kill your fur baby.

Even a cat that stays away from roads, gets lucky with other animals, and doesn't eat anything toxic can still be exposed to allergens, pollution, and parasites, all of which cause problems that don't just hurt in the now; they shorten the future as well.

Outdoor cats that are cared for but are still left to their own devices – such as cats that have shelter in a barn or garage but aren't let inside or cats that can come and go as they please but still spend some nights outdoors – will naturally live somewhere in between the two averages.

Do Different Breeds of Cat Live Different Lengths of Time?

Since genetics play a pretty big role in aging, the answer here is also yes. Some cats live longer than average, and some live shorter amounts of time; these "breed averages" can still vary, but you can expect to adjust your planning either upwards or downwards depending on the cat you're adopting.

Breed Average Lifespans:

• Abyssinian: 9-15 years
• Devon Rex: 9-15 years
• Javanese: 10-15 years
• LaPerm: 10-15 years
• Cornish Rex: 11-15 years
• Siberian: 11-15 years
• Bengal: 12-16 years
• Birman: 12-16 years
• Maine Coon: 12-15 years
• Munchkin: 12-14 years
• Ragdoll: 12-17 years
• Sphynx: 13-15 years
• Norwegian Forest Cat: 14-16 years
• American Shorthair: 15-20 years
• Siamese: 15-20 years
• Burmese: 16-18 years
• Balinese: 18-22 years

Additionally, most of the time, a purebred cat is going to have a shorter lifespan than a "mutt" cat, as more diverse genetics tend to lead to more resiliency against various ailments. Some breeds are susceptible to things like kidney problems and other issues over time, and larger breeds are often (though not always) shorter-lived because of those inherent traits.

Again, breed is only one factor in the lifespan of a cat, and while it can be an important one, it's far from the only factor in play.

Do Different Colors of Cat Live Different Lengths of Time?

While you might scoff and say "no" to this out of hand, if you think about it, is there something to it? Do orange cats pass quicker when they don't have control of the brain cell? Do black cats suffer from bad luck?

Honestly, the biggest reason I bring this up is simply because I've seen many people ask about tabbies. Tabby cats have the same lifespan as their breed because tabby is just a coloration and pattern, not a breed.

In general, no, different colors of cat don't live different lengths of time. The color of the coat, in some cases, can indicate a particular genetic ancestry, though – such as seal point or color point being more typical of purebred cats – but for the most part, it's all the same cat underneath.

One potential exception to this is black cats if they're outdoor cats, and only because there are terrible people who are superstitious about them and do terrible things to them. Even if you have an outdoor cat, if they're a black cat, bring them in around Halloween please.

What Factors Affect the Lifespan of a Cat?

If you're worried about how long your fur baby will be with you, and you want to do everything you can to make sure they live a long and happy life with you, what factors should you consider? It's pretty much all that you would expect.

Maintaining a Healthy Diet. A proper diet is probably one of the most important things you can do to keep your cat going for as long as possible. A good diet means three things.

• A diet that is low on unnecessary fillers you commonly find in cheaper foods.
• A diet that is focused on the nutrients and vitamins a cat needs – primarily meat.
• A diet that adapts to changing health and keeps things like allergies and hormones in consideration.

You can't pick a food and stick with it indefinitely. Kittens need different nutrients in different amounts than adult or senior cats. Cats with thyroid or kidney issues need special diets. There are all sorts of different ways you may need to adjust your cat's diet over time to make sure they get what they need without the things they don't.

Maintaining a Healthy Weight. Cats have a range of weights they should be in depending on their age, breed, and size. If your cat is underweight, they may be ill and not eating, and they should be seen by a vet right away. If they're overweight, they can develop issues like diabetes, organ damage, and other problems that, even once you address them and bring your cat back to a healthy weight, will tend to linger.

Keeping to a Healthy Activity Level. The healthiest and longest-lived cats tend to be cats that have plenty of stimulation and enriching activities in their homes. They run, they jump, they play. You want to help engage their hunting instincts in a safe and controlled way. The exercise keeps them healthy, the stimulation keeps them from developing anxiety or other cognitive issues, and it all helps you bond more closely with your feline friend.

Keeping Away from Sources of Danger. Partly, this comes back to keeping your cats inside, where they aren't going to run into predators, vehicles, or other issues. Inside, though, it also means keeping certain areas (like attics or crawl spaces) closed off, keeping dangerous houseplants out of their reach or out of the house entirely, keeping toxic chemicals and dangerous foods locked up, and so on. The fewer threats to life and limb that you have lying around, the better the environment will be for your fur baby.

Getting Swift Veterinary Care When Necessary. Sooner or later, something will happen to your cat. Maybe they get sick, maybe they catch something, maybe they pick up parasites from a mouse that gets into the house, who knows. They might also develop tumors or other mysterious lumps just from genetics, age, or stray cosmic rays. Knowing when to bring your fur baby to the vet and have them looked after is critical for their long-term health.

I'm not saying you need to rush them to the emergency vet at the first sign of anything going wrong. That would be expensive and unnecessary. Instead, just make sure you keep an eye on them, notice changes outside of the norm, and address them as necessary.

Minimizing Unnecessary Sources of Stress. Stress and anxiety can do serious long-term damage in ways you never notice. Stress builds up the stress hormone cortisol, which causes further damage and stress to the bodily systems of anything – person or animal – who experiences it. Keeping stress down is critical for long-term health.

What Are the Signs of Aging in Cats?

How do cats progress as they get older? Other than getting larger, more active, and then less active, and eventually slowing down, there are a lot of little things that happen as your fur baby ages.

• Their immune systems get weaker, and they can become more susceptible to diseases.
• Their skin can grow thinner and more fragile, and they can develop rashes or infections more easily.
• They may lose the attention or focus to groom themselves and may not groom themselves well, thoroughly, or consistently.
• They may start to develop issues with controlling their bladder or bowels and might miss the litter box.
• They can lose their sense of hearing and their eyesight, partially or totally.
• They can develop dental disease, may need to have teeth pulled, and may need to switch to a softer diet because they have trouble chewing.
• They can develop feline arthritis and other joint issues, which reduces their mobility and makes it harder for them to jump around, move, or be active.
• They may develop kidney issues that need to be monitored over time.
• They can develop tumors, cancers, and other issues that can require surgery or advanced treatment to address.

Older cats tend to be slower, more lethargic, and more content to just spend time with you, sleeping near you or with you, and just enjoying cozy, warm spots. The rambunctious days of their youth are behind them, and trust me; they appreciate every moment of their life with you.

It's always a heartbreaking event to have to put down a beloved feline friend, but sooner or later – unless they pass happily in their sleep – they will probably need the intervention. When quality of life is no longer possible, it's better to let them have a comfortable way out than to drag them along in pain for your own comfort.

Fortunately, there are many resources available to help you through the loss of a beloved pet. Groups like Lap of Love, the Association for Pet Loss and Bereavement, and even the country's mental health services can all help you out.

Just remember; they may be just a part of your life, but you are there for the whole of their life, and that's worth something.

Now that we're at the end of this article, I'd love to hear from you, the readers! How old is your feline friend? Do you have any favorite stories about them? Be sure to share them in the comments section down below! I absolutely love hearing about all your fur babies.

It's one thing if they're digging in the garbage or getting into some hidden treats you've kept in a cupboard. It's quite another experience altogether if they're getting into something much less savory, like your cat's litter box.

Cats and dogs? Cohabitating? It'll never work! The truth is, though, cats and dogs can get along great. They have different instinctual body language and interpret each other's behaviors in different ways, but that doesn't mean they have to be aggressive to one another. They can be friends and love each other just as much as we love them.

The biggest issue comes with the territory of caring for animals. While you can take your dog outside to go potty, cats generally should stay indoors, and that's what the litter box is for. So when your pooch decides to investigate that litter box and finds some tasty treats, well, not only is it gross, but you might wonder if it's dangerous.

Is cat litter dangerous to your dog if they eat it, or is it more or less harmless? The answer is a firm "it depends."

Cat Litter and the Differences Between Cats and Dogs

Many pet products are designed to be harmless to their respective creatures, but different kinds of animals have different needs. Something harmless to dogs might cause digestive distress or other damage to cats, and vice versa. They have different nutritional needs, after all, and can be sensitive to different kinds of chemicals.

A big example is xylitol. Xylitol is fine – even beneficial – in humans. It's used as a sugar substitute that doesn't rot your teeth, so it's increasingly found in everything from candies to peanut butter.

As any responsible dog parent knows, though, xylitol is toxic to dogs. It lowers their blood sugar to potentially dangerous levels and can cause organ damage, especially if your pooch gets into a tub of xylitol-infused peanut butter and has no self-control.

Cats, though, don't much care about the ingredient. Xylitol doesn't seem to have much of an impact on cats at all.

So, it just goes to show that different substances have different impacts on different pets, and it's not always clear or obvious what does and doesn't have an impact.

Cat litter is explicitly made to serve three goals.

• It serves as a substrate media for cats to bury their waste, since cats prefer to find some place they can dig and bury their leavings to help avoid detection or contamination where they hang out.
• It absorbs moisture and, more importantly, the odors that develop from your cat's waste, so you don't have to smell it throughout your house.
• It often (though not always) has material properties that allow it to clump up when moistened to make it easy to clean a litter box without wasting excessive amounts of cat litter.

You might notice that the safety of the cat isn't on this list. In fact, one of the most common kinds of cat litter – bentonite clay litter – is actually toxic to cats, because sodium bentonite is dangerous.

Not only can it be toxic, it can also clump up inside your fur baby, hardening into an impossible-to-pass lump that causes an impacted bowel.

Not great!

So why is this allowed? Well, the simple answer is that cats have zero desire to eat their refuse or their litter. It's simply not a problem outside of extreme circumstances, and if your cat is suffering in such an extreme circumstance, there are much bigger problems to address as well.

What about dogs, though? Is cat litter harmful to dogs? There are two factors to consider.

Factor 1: What Kind of Litter Did Your Dog Eat?

The first question is, what kind of litter are you using? Different kinds of cat litter have different material and chemical properties.

There are actually a bunch of different kinds of cat litter. They come in two categories: clumping and non-clumping. Within each category, there are a bunch of different types of materials available as well. You can read a bigger breakdown of these types of cat litter in my guide to litters, here.

Paper product litter is generally made from recycled paper products. It's sterilized and cleaned, so there aren't things like toxic inks in the pellets.

It's generally non-toxic to animals, but if your dog eats too much of it, it can cause an intestinal blockage, which can be serious. More on the repercussions later, by the way.

Silica or "crystal" cat litter is made with a silica gel kind of product. Silica gel is used as a desiccant, which means it absorbs moisture. This is useful in cat litter for absorbing urine and for odor control. But, if your dog eats it, the moisture inside them can be absorbed into it.

Those silica gel packets say "do not eat" on them, after all. Fortunately, in small amounts, silica gel can be passed just like anything else your dog eats. It doesn't clump up, so it won't form a blockage. All you need to do is make sure your pooch drinks plenty of water.

Clay cat litter is made from bentonite clay. This is the archetypal clumping cat litter; the clay pellets, when they get wet, get sticky, and stick to both waste and one another.

This means they absorb moisture and turn into blockages, making it one of the more dangerous kinds of cat litter for dogs. Some bentonite clay can also include trace amounts of quartz, which can be carcinogenic when inhaled (causing silicosis), which is bad for everyone and everything.

Grain cat litter, like corn litter, or wood litter, like pine litter, are all generally safer. They aren't typically going to be as good at their jobs as the main clay or silica litters, but they'll also be less dangerous if your dog eats a mouthful.

Factor 2: How Much Litter Did Your Dog Eat?

Here's the thing: your dog isn't going after the litter. You know that, I know that, and as much as we don't like to think about it, it's simply a fact.

Your dog is after those little nuggets of leavings your cat buries; the litter they eat along the way just happens because it's stuck to those nuggets.

That means that when your dog is eating cat litter, they're doing it with very little in the way of actual litter as their goal.

They might take a mouthful while they find a turd to eat, but they're generally not just chowing down on the litter box unless it hasn't been cleaned in a long time, and again, in that case, you have bigger problems.

In general terms, if your dog has only eaten a small amount of cat litter, they're fine. A tiny amount of cat litter probably won't be toxic to any but the smallest dogs, and the issues with dehydration and internal clumping generally only happen if a lot of litter is eaten at once.

What Are the Problems with Your Dog Eating Cat Litter?

So, if your dog has decided to dig into the litter box for a snack, what are the primary risks?

Toxicity. As mentioned above, cat litter is usually not toxic to dogs. That said, if you get scented cat litter, perfumed litter, or litter with some kind of additive to it, it's possible that your fur baby can be sensitive to that ingredient, or it could include a chemical that is toxic to your pooch. This is why unscented litters are generally better.

Allergies. Similar to toxicity, your dog might have an allergic reaction to some component of the litter. This is, again, most common with scented litters and perfume compounds, which are usually chemicals that can cause various problems, even in people or cats as well as dogs.

You can also identify if your dog is going to have a reaction through a skin test, and if so, change litters ASAP to avoid a problem down the road.

Intestinal blockages. Clumping litters in particular can cause blockages internally when they clump up and get stuck in the bowels. Depending on where in the system they get stuck, this can range from simple constipation all the way to an impacted bowel that might require surgery to correct. Usually, small amounts of litter won't cause this, and non-clumping litters usually won't either.

Dehydration. Cat litter is almost always designed to absorb moisture because moisture is what allows bacteria to grow and what causes the stench of waste. Moisture is also what keeps every living thing alive and is what allows the bowels to work properly.

Dehydration causes all kinds of problems, and if litter in the gut is absorbing too much moisture from the surrounding digestive system, your dog is going to suffer from it. Fortunately, in all but the most extreme cases, all you need to do is get your pooch to drink more, and it'll be fine.

Infections. This one doesn't have anything to do with the litter, but rather with your cat's refuse. Cats can carry parasites, including worms, and bacteria like salmonella.

If your dog eats their droppings, then your dog can contract one of those infections as well. Now, ideally you have antiparasitic treatments for all of your animals and the only risk is bacteria, but it's still something that can crop up at any time.

Other than extreme levels of internal blockage, dehydration, or allergic reaction, none of these are going to be life-threatening, at least not right away. Still, it's something you need to watch for.

Signs Your Dog is Suffering from Eating Cat Litter

Normally, it should be fairly easy to determine if your dog is eating cat litter. Dogs aren't the most subtle or crafty of God's creatures, after all. Still, you should pay attention to their behavior and keep an eye out for symptoms of impending problems.

Look for:

• Irregular bowel movements or constipation that can indicate an internal blockage or problem.
• Lethargy and other signs of dehydration.
• Symptoms of intestinal parasites and worms.

Your dog may also vomit, and that vomit might contain litter and can be a sign that they ate more than what came up and that you may want to get them checked out.

As mentioned, the majority of the time, your dog won't be in an immediately life-threatening condition, and you can call your vet and schedule an appointment in the next few days to have them checked over.

If they seem to be struggling with dehydration, lethargy, or a complete inability to potty, then you should be more concerned and consider the emergency vet.

Stopping Your Dog from Eating Cat Litter

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and if you want your fur baby to stay away from the litter, your best option is physical separation.

You have a few options here.

• Buy an enclosed litter box with a small door that your dog can't get in through, but your cat can. Cats also tend to prefer more protected and enclosed spaces for their litter needs, so this serves double duty.
• Use a baby gate or other barrier that your cat can bypass, but your dog can't, to separate the area where you keep your litter.
• Make sure your dog has enough activity and engagement so they don't get bored and start getting into things they shouldn't.
• Consider training your cat to use the toilet instead of a litter box and, eventually, get rid of litter entirely.

These are some of the most common options. You may also just be able to train your dog well enough to stay away from the enticing litter box treasures. In rare cases, you might even be able to train your cat to go outside on a harness to do their business, just like your dog.

Really, there are plenty of options for you to explore. Which one has worked best for you? Be sure to let me know in the comments section, down below! I always love hearing from you all!

Cleaning Their Mouths

When you have a bit of food stuck on your lips, a drip of sauce, or a bit of powder from chips or something, you lick your lips to clean them off, right? Well, most people do, though some take a napkin and put it to work. Cats don't use napkins, though, so they resort to their tongues for cleaning their furry little faces. When they eat and have residue on their faces, or when they drink and there's still water on the fur around their mouth, that adorable little tongue dips out and helps clean them off.

Really, it's all just a part of their standard grooming routine. Cats use their tongues to groom themselves from tip to tail, and licking their lips is just that tip put into action.

Cats are actually pretty fastidious about cleaning themselves after a meal. That's because, despite being small predators, they're still small, and other, larger predators might stalk them down if they still smell like food. Even if your fur baby lives a happy and comfortable life indoors, their instincts tell them to clean themselves up so the lingering scent doesn't give them away.

Dental Issues

Other than grooming, the second most common reason cats lick their lips is because they have some kind of dental issue. Keep an eye out for frequent or excessive lip licking and associated drooling, especially if either one is unusual for your fur baby. These can indicate a tooth cavity, an abscess, a broken tooth, or another kind of oral infection or sore. Anything that causes irritation and pain will make them lick at their lips and face in an attempt to try to soothe the irritation away.

Other symptoms can include:

• A decline in appetite. When it hurts to open their mouth or to put pressure on a tooth or part of their gums, they aren't going to want to do anything that makes them do so, including eating. Pain can also suppress appetite.
• Paying at their face. When licking doesn't help, there aren't many other ways your cat can interact with their own face, and pawing at it is one such way. In some cases, they may even attempt to use a claw to pick at their mouth, but that's not terribly common.
• A bad odor from their face. Cats don't exactly have fresh, minty breath, but when they have a worse odor than usual – something foul and wrong-smelling – it's possible that it's an infection you're smelling. Since cats love to stick their paws and faces in your face, you're probably at least somewhat used to the smell of their normal breath, so you should be able to notice if something is unusual.

The four most common dental issues in cats are gingivitis, periodontitis, oral tumors, and a condition called tooth resorption. Gingivitis is gum disease, and periodontitis is a more advanced version of gum disease that occurs if gingivitis is left unchecked. Oral tumors can be anything from cysts to cancer and can be anywhere from harmless to extremely dangerous. Tooth resorption is a rare and unusual problem where the cat's body, for some reason, decides that the tooth is a foreign body and rejects it.

Dental issues are important to get checked out. Infections need to be treated right away, and in the case of an infected or broken tooth, it probably needs to be pulled to prevent more pain and to help encourage your fur baby to eat. Don't let the issue linger and hope it'll resolve itself.

You can help forestall dental issues by training your cat to accept you brushing their teeth, and dry food can help scrape teeth clean, but there's no substitute for regular dental checkups as well.

Dry Mouth

We tend to think of dry mouth as a symptom of something else, usually the side effect of some kind of medication. In cats, that's still true, but it can also be caused by certain diseases or illnesses, like kidney or liver problems, dehydration, or even endocrine disorders.

Dry mouth is also potentially alleviated by working the mouth to get the salivary glands to function a bit, which is why your cat might lick their lips in an attempt to alleviate it. Excessive lip licking but with a dry tongue and mouth can be a sign of one of these issues, and while it's not as immediately serious as most of the other things on this list, you might still want to consider calling your vet, especially if it doesn't lighten up in a day or two.

Eating Something Bad

If your cat ate something they shouldn't have, it's possible that it has done something to their mouth that they don't like, and they're licking to try to get rid of the feeling. Eating something mildly toxic, for example, can lead to tingling or numb lips. They might also be excessively salivating and licking to try to keep it cleaned up because it's otherwise unpleasant on their face. The same thing can happen if they do something like, for example, try to catch a stinging or biting insect and have it bite or sting them on the lips or even inside their mouth.

There are a lot of different things in the world around us that can cause this kind of issue. Toxic plants are everywhere, including many common houseplants. Bees and wasps can get inside at any time. Even household chemicals can cause problems.

Mild symptoms may resolve on their own, but you still may want to call a vet to make sure. If your cat is having other symptoms, like vomiting, breathing problems, diarrhea, or a severe lack of drinking or eating, definitely take them in ASAP to get checked out. Some toxic plants and substances can be deadly in a very short amount of time.

Nausea

Somewhat related to toxicity, nausea can cause your cat to salivate excessively or just lick their lips in an attempt to forestall the feeling. Cats aren't exactly known for trying not to throw up, but if they're just feeling bad, the physiological reactions are going to happen one way or the other.

Nausea is also usually accompanied by other symptoms, like drooling, chewing, dehydration, and dry heaving. And, of course, vomiting, which may or may not solve the issue depending on what it is that's causing the problem. If they can purge it from their system with a quick vomit, that's great for them; otherwise, they might be sick, and the cause will keep them suffering until it runs its course or is treated.

If your fur baby is constantly nauseous and vomiting, dehydration can be a serious worry. On top of that, it can be a sign of something like kidney failure or diabetes going unchecked. All of these need a vet to address them with, at minimum, fluids to help keep them going. Again, don't hesitate to call your vet or bring your fur baby in for a look.

Allergic Reactions

Toxicity is one thing, but there are other reasons why the mouth (and nose, and eyes, and airways) can be irritated: allergies. Whether it's an allergy to a cleaning product, an allergy to a food ingredient, or an allergy to some kind of seasonal dust or pollen, cats can have allergies just the same as we can. But, where we can just pop an antihistamine to take care of it for the day, your fur baby can't do anything until you notice.

Allergic reactions can cause itchy eyes, nose, and mouth, which are the main symptoms likely to cause them to lick their lips. If their allergies are more respiratory, they might have labored breathing, wheezing, or sneezing. Watery eyes are also common. On the other hand, if it's a topical allergy, it's more likely to be something they stuck their face in that is irritating the skin of their lips and nose.

If you suspect allergies, call your vet, and they can help you determine if it's something they need to help treat or if you can just work on eliminating the cause from your home or from their food.

Fear and Anxiety

One of the less physical reasons for lip smacking and licking is anxiety and fear. Licking their lips is what is known as a "displacement behavior" that occurs when your cat is forcibly put in a situation they don't like and can't really escape. It's common in veterinary offices, in fact, when a cat that doesn't like the vet is brought to the exam table, some try to fight, some try to flee, and others exhibit a displacement behavior.

Lip licking is a sort of grooming behavior that can be used to alleviate fear and anxiety, but without taking their eyes off whatever is making them anxious or afraid. You might see it if two cats are in the middle of a stare-down, or if your cat is confronting an unknown animal, or a change in scenery, or an unknown person, or themselves in a mirror. Anything causing them a spike of stress might be alleviated with a little licking of the lips.

Compulsive Disorders

Another reason why your cat might lick their lips constantly is if they have a kind of obsessive/compulsive disorder. Some cats have what is basically an OCD-style tic that makes them constantly groom themselves. Left to their own devices, they might end up licking and picking at their skin until they've pulled out all of their hair, leaving bald spots known as Behavioral Alopecia.

These can be primary – that is, a kind of neurological issue that doesn't have an external cause – or secondary, such as if they have a kind of dermatitis that irritates them into excessively grooming an area. Some parasites and problems like ringworm can also cause it.

How can you tell if lip licking is part of this? Well, these kinds of compulsive disorders generally aren't limited to lip licking and extend to excessive grooming of all kinds. So, if they're constantly grooming themselves well beyond what they normally should, it's a sign that they may have something more going on.

Other Causes for Excessive Lip Licking in Cats

There are, of course, a whole lot of other reasons why your cat might be licking their lips more than usual. For example, maybe they have something caught in their teeth, and it's part of the work they're doing to dislodge it. Or maybe they injured their lip or nose somewhere, with a small cut or scrape, and licking helps soothe it while it heals. These kinds of issues aren't usually dangerous outside of extreme cases, but they're still relevant.

Fortunately, you can usually tell if your fur baby is suffering from something more dangerous because they'll have other symptoms. Vomiting, trouble breathing, and lack of appetite are the kinds of things you need to watch for in general, and they are usually the same sorts of responses to anything going wrong. At a minimum, call your vet and discuss the issue; in extreme cases, take them to the emergency vet to make sure they're seen as soon as possible.

On the other hand, if they're licking their lips a lot but are otherwise acting just fine, you probably don't need to worry. It's really only when things get out of hand and there are other symptoms in play that you need to worry about it. Otherwise, it might just be a good opportunity to get a few of those adorable mlems on camera to share on your favorite social networks.

So there you have it; all of the main reasons why your cat might be licking their lips a lot more than normal. If you have any questions – about cat behavior in general, even – feel free to ask in the comments below!

• Why do cats knead or "make biscuits"
• Why do cats bite or pull on their nails
• Why do cats like to touch your face
• Why do cats pant like a dog

And plenty more. So, now let's talk about one of the simplest – and yet most adorable – behaviors that a cat can display. What is it? Well, obviously, if you read the title of this post, you already know. It's when your fur baby is looking for a place to curl up and doze, and they choose your lap (or chest, or stomach, or the crook of your arm, or anywhere else next to you.)

What does it mean when they choose to sleep on you instead of in their bed, up on their cat tree, or in that cozy sunbeam breaking through the curtains?

How Cats Choose a Place to Sleep

It's important to know how a cat chooses where they want to sleep. They're predators, but they're also small and vulnerable to the predations of larger animals. In the wild, a cat has to be cautious of other cats, dogs, coyotes, and big cats like mountain lions. They can't just pick a nice warm spot and sleep there; they need to find someplace they can consider safe.

What makes a location safe? Well, that varies.

Cats like to sleep somewhere relatively enclosed. This is why when you hear tales of people finding stray cats having kittens nearby, it's usually in a hedge, under a dense shrub, under a porch, in a crawlspace, in a garage or barn, or another closed-off area. It's someplace they can get into, where they have shelter from the elements, and where other animals are less likely to be. They will also choose somewhere up high if they can since many of the animals that threaten them can't climb as well as they can. That's why they "get stuck" in trees and on rooftops from time to time.

You can often see that same behavior in our domesticated feline friends. They'll find a place on top of a shelf, in a nook around the TV, in a drawer or cupboard, or – as is so often adorably observed online – in a box.

Another big element of safety, though, is the scent. Cats have a fairly keen sense of smell (nothing like a dog's, but still better than ours), and they leave scent markings around their area. That's why they rub their faces and paws on you and on the things in their domain, and it's why they scratch at surfaces. They would also scent mark using urine if they aren't fixed and/or trained away from doing so.

So, when your cat is looking for a place to sleep, their first priority is safety, and their second priority is comfort.

So, why do they choose you?

Why Your Cat Chooses to Sleep With (or on) You

If your cat is choosing to sleep next to, curled up with, or on top of you, they're doing so because of one of a few different reasons.

The first and most common for dedicated cat parents is that your fur baby has bonded with you. Cats aren't really the aloof, standoffish, and independent creatures they're made out to be. They have plenty of complex social behaviors, and they form bonds. Those bonds are often formed with other cats (like their parents, siblings, littermates, and other friendly strays around them in the cat colony), but they can also be formed with people.

So, the number one reason why your cat chooses to sleep with you is because they've bonded with you. This is actually a combination of several factors, though.

A related reason is that your cat feels safe with you. They know you aren't going to do anything to hurt or threaten them – at least not on purpose. Because really, who among us hasn't accidentally kicked or stepped on our loving fur baby in the middle of the night when we can't even see them? It's always heart-wrenching, but at least they forgive us.

Cats need to feel safe to sleep. Ideally, they'll feel safe all throughout your home because you've made it safe for them. Out of the whole home, though, they'll want to prioritize spending time with the cats or people they've bonded with, and that means hanging out with you. Since cats do a lot of sleeping, that's going to be their primary trust activity.

Another reason is the scent marks of safety. There's an amusing anecdote somewhere on X: a couple have two cats, and they always have the same routine of settling in their respective chairs for the evening. Their cats each go to their favorite person and take up a position on the arm of the chair to spend time with them. Then, one day, the two decided to switch spots and see what the cats would do.

Much to their chagrin, the cats went to their usual spots. The parents, heartily amused, determined that the cats didn't have a favorite person at all but rather just a favorite spot.

That's only half true. The full truth is, the chair you spend every day sitting in – or the bed you spend every night sleeping in – is saturated with your scent. If you give your cat the choice between a brand-new chair you're sitting in, or the chair that you've sat in every night for years, they're going to detect strong saturated scents from the one you spent so much time in. It's familiar, comfortable, and safe.

So, part of safety is feeling secure with the scents around them, and what better place to bathe in your scent than right on top of you in bed or on a chair?

Another reason why cats like to sleep on people is simply because cats like to be somewhere warm. Cats already have a higher body temperature than we do, which means that keeping our houses at a temperature comfortable for us is a little chilly for them. They certainly make up for it with their fur coats, but they'll happily soak up the sun in a window and enjoy even more warmth. So, why would they want to sleep on you? Your body heat is warmer than the floors and other surfaces, so you're a nice warm place to curl up and doze.

One other possible reason is hormones. We get good hormones like oxytocin when we spend time with our fur babies, and dogs definitely get some when they spend time with us, so it's not out of the question that cats do, too. Unfortunately, vets aren't sure whether or not that's true just yet, so for now, it's just a theory.

Finally, cats are just social sleepers. There are a million different adorable cat pictures on the internet of two or more cats curled up in a pile to sleep, in on and around one another. Well, if they don't have other cats to snuggle up to, they'll just as likely pick the next best thing, which is you. After all, you're part of the pack as well; even if you don't partake in grooming, you don't really talk right, and you don't scratch the furniture.

Is It Bad to Sleep With Your Cat?

Some people believe that it's bad in some way to sleep with their cats. Some people view cats as dirty and that the cat will soil their beds. There's a little truth to that, sure. If your cat is ill, they can vomit or lose bowel or bladder control on your sheets, and no one likes to wake up to those telltale noises that mean hours of suffering at three in the morning.

Truth be told, most of the time, it's fine to let your cat sleep with you. There are three reasons why it might be bad, though, so let's cover them.

The first is parasites. If your cat has brought in some kind of parasite with them – most notably, fleas – letting them sleep with you can spread the parasite to you. At the very least, it can infest your sheets, and that's unpleasant for everyone involved.

If your cat is an indoor-only fur baby and they don't have the opportunity to pick up parasites, this probably isn't much of a concern. It's worse for cats that go outside from time to time, especially if they do so unsupervised, which I don't recommend.

The second reason is bacteria. It's kind of the same thing, really; cats can catch illnesses and bring them into the home with them. While cats like to keep themselves groomed and cleaned as much as they can, they don't exactly go wash themselves with soap, and the bacteria they carry can cause problems with you if you're susceptible to it. In particular, if you're immunocompromised, on antibiotics, or otherwise vulnerable, you should sadly try not to let your fur baby snuggle up to you while you're sleeping. Fortunately, while cats can potentially carry diseases, as can parasites on them, a well-cared-for fur baby isn't going to have much you have to worry about unless you have other reasons to be concerned for yourself.

The third reason is allergies. You may keep your allergies under control through shots or pills during the day, but at night, they can run wild. The worst part, though, isn't the allergies themselves. Chronic inflammation from constant low-level allergic reactions is pretty bad, but more than that, allergy attacks during the night will break up and disrupt your sleep and reduce the quality of the sleep you get. Since everything from heart attacks to colds is increased because of poor quality sleep, you really want to do what's best for you.

If you aren't concerned about any of these, you're probably fine with letting your fur baby sleep with you at night. Of course, since cats like to be nocturnal, they'll probably be restless and won't stick around too long at a time. They have better things they could be doing, like prowling.

Take special care if you have babies or young children to care for. You shouldn't let your cat sleep with them. First, if the cat is startled by the baby abruptly waking, screaming, or flailing around, they can react with a bite or scratch, and that's dangerous. Second, a cat curling up on their chest or head to sleep can even cause unintentional suffocation. It's always better to be safe than sorry when a non-fur baby is involved.

Finally, if your cat is sick in any way, you really want to keep them somewhere where they aren't going to be transmitting it to other cats or to you. It can feel bad to try to isolate them when they're suffering, but you can spend time comforting them when you're comfortable yourself. You don't want to make yourself feel worse just to make them feel better; you can't care for them if you're suffering, too, right?

Of course, not every cat even wants to sleep in your human bed with you. Some may be content to be curled up at your feet, or even just somewhere else in the room. As long as they can share the space with you, that may be enough for their fuzzy little minds.

So, there you have it! A thorough explanation of why cats like to sleep on you, with you, around you, and share space with you. Isn't it a wonderful feeling to know that your fur baby has chosen you as their beloved human, their littermate, their bonded packmate, and their friend? There are few better feelings when acting as a pet parent than earning that trust and love from our beloved feline friends.

Do you have any other common cat behavior questions you wonder about or would like explained? If so, feel free to leave them in the comments below! I'm always on the lookout for ways to answer your questions and engage with my community, so I look forward to hearing from you.

Dogs like to get into things they shouldn't. And, since they have a limited number of ways they can interact with the world, they often just put things in their mouths. Often, that means they're licking, chewing on, or even eating things they shouldn't be. Sometimes, it's fine, even if it's a little gross. Sometimes, it can lead to an upset stomach. In worse cases, it can cause something worse, like an infection, an intestinal blockage, or another dangerous problem.

Fortunately, there are ways you can tell what's going wrong and how concerned you need to be, and whether you can just sigh, clean up, and move on, or if you need to rush your poor pooch to the vet. Unfortunately, it involves inspecting the vomit that comes out of your pup to interpret what it means. It's not like reading tea leaves or palms, but luckily, it's a lot more useful.

Vomiting vs. Regurgitation vs. Coughing

One of the first things to learn is that, though we use the terms to mean the same thing in general, vomiting and regurgitation are actually different things.

Have you ever had a case where your dog is so happy to be fed, possibly after a long play session, that they absolutely go to town on that bowl of food? It feels like a cup of kibble disappears in the time it takes you to blink.

Then, seconds later, it's back; a little chewed, a little damp, but right there on your floor, your pooch having barely gotten it all down before it comes right back up.

While unpleasant for you – and possibly just as attractive as the first time around to your doggo – this is regurgitation. Your dog ate their food much too quickly, and their body wasn't prepared for it, so it just pushed it right back up.

Regurgitation almost always happens pretty much immediately after eating, with little or no delay. It also comes with little or no warning, no retching, heaving, or contractions indicating they're trying to purge their stomach. That's because regurgitation usually happens when the stomach isn't even open for business, at least not for the sudden burst of food coming its way.

Regurgitation is not vomiting, and it's usually not dangerous unless it's happening every time your fur baby tries to eat. If it is, they may have something wrong that is preventing them from keeping food down, and it's a good idea to call your vet about it if it happens more than a couple of times in a row. A little regurgitation from an excitable pup is nothing to be too worried about, though. It just means you should get a slow feeder.

How about a second scenario? Have you ever had a time when your dog starts hacking and retching, like a chain smoker trying to clear their lungs, until something gross and gooey comes up? Often, it's white or clear, foamy, maybe a little yellow, and has the same sort of consistency as whatever you hack up when you're sick.

This is phlegm and spit more than anything, and it's not vomiting, it's coughing. It's more coming from the sinuses, throat, and lungs, rather than the digestive system. It can be a sign of a respiratory illness, like kennel cough, so if it happens frequently you should call your vet. Otherwise, though, it's not much different from you clearing your throat.

Vomiting is different from either of the above. Vomiting happens when your dog starts retching and hacking, clearly trying to expel something. You have a bit of warning to put something in front of them or take them away from the nice carpets, but probably not a lot of warning. Vomiting is expelling the contents of the stomach, which means it will contain whatever your fur baby has swallowed, whether it's food, bile, roadkill, parts of a toy or bone, or whatever else they've gotten into.

Vomiting is the most dangerous of the three, in general. It's a natural process where the body expels something causing it problems, but that means something is causing problems, and it's not always directly something your fur baby ate. If, for example, they end up with an impacted bowel, they won't be able to defecate, and food will get backed up in their system. Eventually, trying to eat more simply won't work, and if they try, they'll vomit.

When a dog vomits, it can be caused by a wide range of different problems, and those problems can be partially diagnosed through an inspection of the vomit itself. It's gross and unpleasant, but it has to be done.

Interpreting Dog Vomit

Knowing what vomit means can be the difference between taking your time cleaning up and rushing your fur baby to the vet before something terrible happens. So, let's talk about it, unpleasant though it may be.

Color and texture are generally related, so we'll cover them both as we go.

Before diving in, though, it's worth saying one thing: vomiting, while natural, is a sign of something wrong. Sometimes, something is as minor as a bit of an upset stomach and resolves itself immediately. Other times, it can be caused by an infection, a parasite like worms, poisoning from eating something toxic, or an injury.

Vomiting more than once in a day and more than a couple of days in a row is almost always something you need to talk to your vet about. At the very least, give them a call, describe the issue, and they'll ask you questions about what's going on and can tell you if you need to bring your dog in right away. Sometimes it's a clear emergency, of course, but if you're at all unsure, it's always better to be safe than sorry.

White Vomit

If your dog's vomit is white, it's either smooth or foamy in consistency. This can be regurgitation, but it can also be a sign that your fur baby ate something mildly toxic to them and they're purging it. It can also be a symptom of digestive upset, acid reflux, or an intestinal blockage, though the latter is less common.

White vomit tends to happen the most because your fur baby had an upset stomach and tried to eat some grass to soothe it. It often doesn't work and, worse, since grass often has chemicals like fertilizers and pesticides on it, it can be dangerous.

White foamy vomit can also be caused by bloating or other gastrointestinal issues. If they're trying to vomit repeatedly and can't seem to get up anything more than white foam, call your vet ASAP because they may have an intestinal blockage. If, on the other hand, it resolves itself after a few attempts, contact your vet for an appointment when you can, but you usually don't need the emergency trip.

Green Vomit

Green vomit is almost, but not always, caused by your fur baby just eating way too much grass. It can also be caused by them eating something that contains green food coloring, probably something they shouldn't have been getting into, which is why they're vomiting it up.

Green is also the color of bile, which can indicate some minor illnesses or food allergies. You should usually be able to tell whether or not there's grass in the vomit, and if there isn't, it may be slightly more of a cause for concern. That said, pretty much all of the causes of green vomit – except for poisoning, which will have other symptoms as well – are minor, so it's not something you need to be too concerned with.

As always, though, if your dog keeps vomiting repeatedly throughout the day or across several days, it's more likely to be an illness or emergency, and you should contact your vet right away.

Yellow Vomit

Yellow is one of the most common and least dangerous colors for vomit. It's tinted with bile, but not a lot of it. Yellow vomit is usually just a case of an empty stomach disliking something that hit it or a case of acid reflux. It's unpleasant, but it's not dangerous.

The exception is if it happens regularly. That can be a sign of a stomach disease, a consistent food allergy, or some kind of gut inflammation that is causing an imbalance in their system. All of these are non-emergency problems, but they should still be addressed as soon as you can get a standard appointment.

Brown Vomit

Brown is one of the trickier colors to diagnose, because it's either virtually harmless, or quite dangerous. Why? Basically, brown vomit can be caused by three things.

First, it can be partially digested food. This is most common if your fur baby has some kind of upset stomach after eating, and vomits up their food partially digested. This usually has a chunkier texture, more like wet and chewed food, and while it's certainly disgusting, it's actually the least bad of the three causes.

Second, it can be feces. Dogs love to get into things they shouldn't, and you've almost definitely had to stop them from eating both their own excrement and whatever piles they find from other creatures out on their walks. Unfortunately, you probably can't keep them under your watchful eye 100% of the time, and they may have slipped the net and found something to eat that they shouldn't have. Then, when it comes back up, it's brown like it was when they first ate it. This, while disgusting, isn't dangerous at all unless the feces they ate had something like worms in it that have gotten into your dog.

The third is the more dangerous of the three, and it's blood. Usually, blood in vomit is more obvious. But, blood further down the digestive tract is partially digested, and that oxidizes it, just like how blood dries brown, basically. If there's a little blood in their vomit, it can look brown. How can you tell? Basically, just use something white when you clean it up, like paper towels. The redness will be more obvious against something white. If you see red, then you should call your vet.

Red Vomit

Red or pink vomit is one of two things. It could be red food coloring or dye from something they are, whether it's a human candy or even kibble that has dye in it. That's distressing but not really dangerous beyond the fact that they were eating something they shouldn't have.

The more common cause is blood. The "good" news is that if the blood is red, it's fresher blood. That means it could be coming from something like a cut in their mouth, a scratch in their throat, or a gastrointestinal problem.

I put good in quotes because any blood in the vomit, especially if you don't see an obvious mouth wound, is dangerous. It's definitely emergency vet time, so don't delay.

Black Vomit

Black vomit is one of the worst kinds of vomit. It usually has the appearance sort of like coffee grounds. Unless your dog, well, ate and vomited up actual coffee grounds, this is a sign of a very serious problem. It's blood, again, but it's blood that was digested, so it's deeper in their system and probably more dangerous. Definitely take them to your emergency vet ASAP, as this can indicate a life-threatening problem like a gut puncture, among other things.

None of us like to see our fur babies in distress, and definitely none of us like to be cleaning up piles of vomit on the carpet, furniture, crate, or other floors. While cleanup is important, you can't just close your eyes and mop it up; it's critical to know what you're dealing with to make sure there isn't a worse problem at hand.

Hopefully, your fur baby is okay, and you don't have to worry. I'm rooting for you!

Now, after reading this article, if you have any non-medically-urgent questions, be sure to let me know in the comments section down below. I'd be more than happy to help you out however I can!